Na Pali Coast Magazine Winter/Spring 2013 by Na Pali Coast Magazine

Winter/Spring 2013

Whale Watching First Ever Mating Footage

Must Things To Do In Kauaâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i

Na Pali Coast Magazine

in this issue Captain’s Log— April 27, 2012

Exploring the Island of Kaua‘i (Maps & Information)

Taking in the Na Pali Coast

Dolphins Living on the Na Pali Coast Sea Cave Review

43 48

The Greatest Show on Earth

Contemplations from the Captain

Pure Unpredictable Excitement

70 74 78 84 88

Winter Whale Fights Na Pali Gump High Tide Feast Na Pali Coast Gallery

Page 43

Page 48

Page 64

Winter/Spring 2013

Captain’s To day — m ay b e H av e

t h e b e s t day o f m y l i f e !

t o s h a r e i t w i t h yo u h e r e .

visitor s on se a tour s, using my s t e e l- h u l l e d , i n f l ata b l e

U s ua l ly To day

it’s

K aua i ’ s N a P a l i

N i ‘ i h au !

Lehua rock just north of Ni‘ihau reveals the mornings summer sun beams shining through the Keyhole and electrifying the water color.

Na Pali Coast Magazine

“ r a f t.” coa s t .

ta k e

Log April 27, 2012 —Captain Chris Turner

pril 27 2012, around 11am. One mile northwest of the Forbidden Island (Ni’ihau). Today we would video-capture mating humpback whales—underwater! Probably for the first time on this planet!. Probably witnessed before by no other earthlings! But did not even know I had these photos till 8 hours later, while going through the footage. For the last thirty plus years, all my whale encounters were with hopes of happening upon that holy whale grail—actual mating. We whale enthusiasts thought it could never be photographed. Because after the males battle it out, the winner and his female vanish into the dark depths to consumate their love—or so we thought. Imagine my speechless shock when I replayed the video—three times to register it! My knees buckled, and buckled again before bed as I joyfully wept, thanking the Creator. Not just a fluke of luck, this rare encounter that crewman Wayne Daniel and I alone witnessed. I had asked four others to accompany me to Ni’ihau. All had believable excuses—too busy, schedules too hectic. Wayne and I, the last men standing, were chosen this special day. The seed or thirst for ocean adventure had been planted in me long ago, reading National Geographic, watching TV specials. My hero was Jacques Costeau—he who brought ocean secrets into America’s living rooms, planting seeds of adventure for the next generation. Crossing the Kauai Channel to Ni’ihau is serious business—no cake walk. Ocean conditions can change quickly from best-day-of-your-life to worst nightmare. I recall that one February winter day 10 plus years ago, when the temptation to cross those short shimmering waters had been too great. And everything was great until the winds changed! Cold winds rose suddenly from the north. White capped waves everywhere, cresting to 20 feet—walls of water that soaked us to the bone. Thankfully our bilge pump continued purring. We cut up black garbage bags for makedo rain jackets to fight our shivering and probably hypothermia. A lesson learned and never forgotten.

You can see the male humpbacks pectoral fin firmly wrapped around the female, keeping her in the mating position as they both surface for air.

But this day the ocean conditions are perfect. I had been up since 3:00 am studying the NOAA weather and radar charts, double checking the checklists, re-thinking lessons of the past. Now at 5:40 am we’re headed to Ni’ihau with the first glow of the sun rising behind us. On to where modern life bypassed, and time had forgot! Hawaiian variable winds blow rarely here, at best only 20% of the year. Days of no wind are even rarer. So we’re blessed this morning with pancake flat waters. I remarked to Wayne how incredibly flat it was, that our prayer this morning had been for safety, that God was revealing it. The channel door is wide open! continued on page 6 Winter/Spring 2013

Captain’s Log—April 27, 2012 And

now this

w h a l e - a d d i c t c a pta i n , going through whale w i t h d r awa l , l o o k i n g for his whale fix, now h a s w h a l e s co m i n g d e a d o n , t o h i s b oat w i t h e n g i n e s o f f , f l oat i n g i n the middle of absolute nowhere.

And

he has

no clue he is about to h av e a o n c e - i n - a - l i f e t i m e e xperience, a sne ak pe ak

(continued)

Our visibility is almost 15 miles, but hazy. We can’t yet see Ni’ihau. I would have to rely on my compass, steering 270 degrees, to cross just north of the island, lining up with nearby Lehua Rock. Looking back at Kauai through the hazy air, we see an ominous and surreal sunrise—our solar star almost blood red. The haze is volcanic fog (VOG), carried by light southeast winds all the way from the Big Island 500 miles away. Global warming? Just open up one of Pele’s vents! The water clarity is the opposite— visibility a hundred feet plus, clear and perfect for underwater shooting. The superb, stainedglass ocean hypnotized me as we crossed, with colors changing from deep purple to cobalt blue. As we near the island, we see a glowing ring of electric windex-blue surrounding the shallows.

Now it’s 7:45am. We had just caught a small kawakawa tuna. l i f e o f h u m p b ac k s … Funny, it happened while I was reeling in the line so I could start filming. Then Wham! Fish on the hook! First time in my life that happened. into the secre t

On every trip to Ni’ihau we pay homage by our awe of the Keyhole rock formation on the westside of Lehua Rock Wayne had already started to focus on filming the Keyhole by 8 am, when, on summer mornings, a beam of sunlight will pour through this rock crack to illuminate the water below with a glow that reflects off the bottom 50 feet below. Multicolored fish can be seen dancing through the beam as they feed. I squeak the boat through the Keyhole crack several times with only inches to spare. I was pressing my luck hoping to get that perfect shot. 9:00 am. A pod of spinner dolphins has come over, sixteen or so. We hurry to get our GO PRO camera equipment into the water, gently. I fear I will “butter finger” in my excitement and drop the multi-camera into Davey Jones’ locker. I tell myself to breathe slowly, to relax. The clear water and angle of sunlight is now giving us remarkable dolphin footage, our best-yet underwater shots. Eye-to-eye shots that make me feel I’m connecting with soulmates. We hear their squeaks and see the bubbles streaming from their blowholes as they dolphin-talk about us. I have seen dolphin pods a lot bigger, but this one is tight.. Maybe that’s the way they like it here. And no 6

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Underwater you can see the challenge the male faces, never seeing what he is doing, blindly he feels for and carefully lines up his target. You can see he completes his mission, just needing slight penetration for a very quick, or short amount of time to achieve his procreation goal. You could describe it like two fighter jet air-refueling in the sky.

cookie cutter shark marks seen! Not one round bite hole and no scars. I thought it odd, but maybe there’s a right pod size less attractive to those cookie cutters. Or maybe it’s where they go to feed? It is now close to 9:45 am. Wayne and I talk about feeling so very satisfied— that we had “scored” so remarkably, that we could head home to Kauai right now, knowing we had come beyond expectation. We had barely finished that conversation when we thought we had two sharks on the surface, side by side and heading straight to us. Red alert! Get the camera back into the water! (I have no problem telling you sharks give me the creeps—Thank you Peter Benchley!) So you can understand how pleased I was that the two shark fins turn out to be the twin wing tips of a giant manta ray instead. A bigger than average individual with wings about 7 feet across. With mouth wide open, it approaches, skimming the surface for breakfast. I’m always thinking: of getting the best shot. But the clock always ticks away. Time is the enemy, so rush to capture the magic moment! Adrenalin sets in. But anything can go wrong. I have had the experience of putting the cameras in as humpbacks battle round the boat, and we thinking we’ll be photographer heroes—only later to find we were never on. Then comes the gut wrenching feeling of photographic zero.

“ W h a l e s !” I

yell to

W ay n e . “M o m ! B a b y ! Th o u s a n d 1

f e e t away ,

o ’ c l o c k !”

“ Ye a h,

I quickly position the boat to a west course to to take t h e y ’ r e co m i n g r i g h t advantage of the sun’s morning angle. I remember the sun bolts momentarily dancing and reflecting off the manta’s back— t o u s ,” W ay n e r e p l i e s . seemingly an out-of-this-world giant angel, electrically charged, moving slowly with graceful gentle rhythm. All the elements here for great shots, and we’re almost in good photo range—key word: almost—when Mr. Manta Ray changes the plan, deciding to abruptly dive into the abyssal darkness, never to be seen again. Well you cannot win them all, but the trying is sure awesome. You have to appreciate those rare moments. 10:00 am and its time to explore the coastline as we head south down the westside of Ni’hau. About halfway along, we stumble upon a mom and baby humpback whale. Cutting the engines, we excitedly wait, like kids waiting for Christmas morning. Ten minutes later I see there are two blows going out in the distance—one big puff, one small puff. They’re not in the mood to socialize. Not expecting any more humpbacks, we decide to move to the next windex blue bay, to rest, quench our thirst and have our lunch. Two monk seals snoozing on the deserted beach are our lunch time entertainment. My lunchtime thoughts are on what Hawaii was like before any man had set foot here. Then come selfish thoughts of never sharing this place with the world. Man would surely bring ruin, as is ever so evident by the plastic net trash washed up next to the seals. But hopefully, the Ni’ihau channel and the distance to this place may be protection enough. Now we’re closing to the climax of this day’s adventure. It started something like this: “Whales!” I yell to Wayne. “Mom! Baby! Thousand feet away, 1 o’clock!” “Yeah, they’re coming right to us,” Wayne replies. I watch them, but hmmmmm, we’re now heading north, to the east of Ni’ihau about a mile away; and to the west is a lonely fisherman setting his traps, maybe a thousand feet away. It’s always a concern—possible whale entanglement. That was a factor in my decision to just cut the engines right there, and besides the whales are heading right towards us. They’re still far away, out of photo range. We sit there lining them up like bowling pins, thinking this continued on page 8 Winter/Spring 2013

Captain’s Log—April 27, 2012 I

h a d a l r e a dy b e e n

b e yo n d ov e r w h e l m e d , to ta l ly s at i s f i e d w i t h t h e a b ov e su r face sights.

t h at w e r e i t…

wo u l d h av e co n s i d e r e d a l r e a dy h av i n g wo n t h e whale

S u pe r b ow l .

Whale breach off the Napali Coast.

Na Pali Coast Magazine

(continued)

will be a relatively close swim-by. We set up the cameras and wait. And then the magic began. The whales come past around the boat’s port side as we drift with bow pointed south. Now they turn, heading right for our bow at the12:00 position. OK, call it 11:00. Mom and baby slowly coming closer and closer; baby about 18 feet long, looking very thick and healthy. Diet of Mom’s milk Maybe 3-4 months old. Mom huge, close to 50 feet plus. This whale has been on our planet awhile—no stranger to a boat and not the least bit concerned of us.

Once the whales get to the red zone, 30 feet away, I get this whale Super Bowl, Fourth Quarter, 2 Minute Warning, Underdog feeling. Our team may be behind, but we’re beaming with confidence! We’re going to win and everything is possible! Powerful bolts of adrenalin take over. The boat is the goal line, and the closer the whales, the greater the confidence. We’re going to score! It’s that whale connection feeling, that edgy, suspenseful, whale addiction thing—for which there is no cure. The whale season was was almost up, and the whales were just about gone on Kauai’s Napali Coast. I had been going through “whale withdrawal” the last week as the whales dried up. Picture me persistently scouting the horizon for

blows that just do not exist. Only another whale encounter will satisfy this need for connection. And now this whale-addict captain, going through whale withdrawal, looking for his whale fix, now has whales coming dead on, to his boat with engines off, floating in the middle of absolute nowhere. And he has no clue he is about to have a once-in-a-lifetime experience, a sneak peak into the secret life of humpbacks—their mating, that holy grail, to be revealed in a delayed action process. To the best of my whale knowledge, what’s never before been filmed underwater, and possibly never before witnessed. Today we’re to go far and beyond any normal whale-fix day. Like kids excitedly, contently, watching a fireworks rocket’s glowing take off,

and not knowing that the delayed reaction of the real explosion is still to come. Thinking back, I had already been beyond overwhelmed, totally satisfied with the above surface sights. If that were it, if there was nothing more, I would have considered already having won the whale Superbowl. So appreciate my surprise and thrill seeing for the first time the unexpected—the secret whale world revealed by the underwater Go Pro cameras. But it actually was not till 8 hours after the actual event that these whale fireworks really exploded, breaking all scales of my previous whale experiences. Here’s what the video showed:

All

of us

h e r e at

N a pa l i C oa s t m ag a z i n e wa n t t o e n co u r ag e e v e r yo n e to never give up on yo u r d r e a m s a n d g oa l s .

P r ay e r

and

per sistence can just about make all things possible.

We’r e

living

p r o o f o f t h at .

EXPLORING THE ISLAND OF KAUA‘I

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Must Things TO DO IN KAUA‘I 1

Na Pali Coast Raft/Catamaran Trip

Helicopter Tour

Hike Koke‘e/Waimea/Na Pali

Learn to Surf

Learn to Scuba Dive

Sail to Ni‘ihua

ATV Tour

Hawaiian Luau

Sky Dive

Zipline The map—or rather cartograph—to the left was provided by Lahaina Printsellers. Check out their Web site for other exceptional art from—or having to do with—Hawai‘i: www.printsellers.com The following pages show maps of different areas of the island of Kaua‘i. They are designed as a resource to show major roadways, beaches, hikes, snorkeling, and other activities that can be enjoyed on the island.

Winter/Spring 2013

EXPLORING THE ISLAND OF KAUA‘I

Taro Fields in Hanalei

Ke‘e Beach

Ke‘e Beach i. 2M

au lal a K

il Tra

Tunnels Beach

560

Ha‘ena Beach Park

Ha‘ena

Hideaways Beach Wainiha Beach Park

Lumaha‘i Beach

i. 4M

Ka Ha ku Rd

Princeville Hanalei Pier Hanalei Bay Rd Aku Rd eke W Hanalei

560 Hanalei Bridge

North Shore Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Snorkel Spots Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Hanalei Bay

Kilauea Lighthouse

Kahili Beach

Kilauea Wailapa Rd

Pila‘a Beach Na ‘Aina Kai Botanical Garden N. Waiakalua Rd

Larsen’s Beach

Kuhio Highway

Moloa‘a Bay Rd

Ko ‘ol au

M olo a‘a

Kalihiwai Rd

Kil aue aR d

Kalihiwai Beach

Rd ai iw lih Ka

Anini Rd

Secret Beach

Lighthouse Rd

‘Anini Beach

Anahola Beach Park Anahola Anahola

EXPLORING THE ISLAND OF KAUA‘I 56 Kuhio Highw ay

East Side Kawaihau Rd

na Mailihu

Rd na e h o ‘Ol

K No uam un o‘o ou Tra il

Noun ou M t

Kuam o‘o R d

Trail

Rd ‘alo Ma

Kuhio Hig hway

50 Hwy uali‘i m u Ka Puhi

Hanama‘ulu Wilcox Hospital

Hanama‘ulu Bay

Ahukini Rd

Lihu‘e Ric eS t

Na wi liw ili Rd

51 58

Lihu‘e Airport Kalapaki Beach

Nawiliwili Na Pali Coast Magazine

Lydgate Beach Park

Nukoli‘i Beach

Ka pu le Hw y

Kuhio Hwy

Nawiliwili Bay

Waipouli Beach Park

Waipouli Beach

583

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

Kapa‘a

Wailua Bay

Wailua Falls

Kapa‘a Beach Park

Ha leil io R Wailua d

580

Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Snorkel Spots

Kealia Beach

581 Ka pa‘ aB ypa ss

Rd ola h a n Kai

Kamalu

il Tra

Kuilau Ridge Trail

e rlin we Po

Moa lepe Trai l

Winter/Spring 2013

EXPLORING THE ISLAND OF KAUA‘I

South Shore Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Snorkel Spots Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

Pakala Beach

Ka um ua li‘i Hw y

Kalaheo

540 Rd

Hanapepe ‘Ele‘ele

Ha lew ili

Salt Pond Beach Park

Po‘ipu Beach

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Hanapepe Bay Glass Beach

wy ali‘i H u m Kau Puhi

Lihu‘e

Ric eS t

Na wi liw ili Rd

Hw y

Nawiliwili

Kau mu ali‘ i

Tree Tunnel

Maluhia Rd

Lawa‘i

530

Koloa

Po‘ipu Rd

ss) Bypa

Lawa ‘i Rd

u Po‘ip loa– i (Ko inoik Ala K

Rd loa Ko

Lawa‘i Bay

Spouting Horn

520

Po‘ipu d Lawa‘i uR Beach Baby ‘ip o P Beach Koloa Landing Shipwreck Kiahuna Beach Brennecke Beach Po‘ipu Beach Beach Park

Ha‘ula Beach

Gillin’s Beach

Kawailoa Bay

Spouting Horn

Po‘ipu Beach

Winter/Spring 2013

EXPLORING THE ISLAND OF KAUA‘I

Militar y Boun dary

Polihale State Park

Waimea Pier

Ko ke‘ eR d

y Hw li‘i ua um Ka

Pacific Missile Range Facility Waterfall next to Koke‘e Road

50 Ke ka ha Rd Kekaha Beach Park

Waimea Canyon

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Waimea Canyon

on ny a eC ai‘ o K

552 Rd Canyon Waimea

Wa ime aC any on T rail

550

Ku ku iT ra il

Waimea Canyon Lookout

West Side

550

Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Kekaha

Kikiaola Small Boat Harbor

Waimea

Lucy Wright Beach Park Pakala Beach

Ka um ua li‘i Hw y

Hanapepe ‘Ele‘ele

Winter/Spring 2013

ta k i n g i n

the Na Pali Coast 3

Page 14

Page 16

Page 18

Page 19

Open Ceiling Cave

Awa‘awapuhi Valley Nu‘alolo Kai Page 22

Miloli‘i Beach

Makaha Valley

10 11

Nu‘alolo Aina Valley

Milo li‘i R idge Trai l

Page 23 Makole Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Snorkel Spots

Polihale 20

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Page 12

Page 13

Ke ‘e Beach

5 Hanakapi ‘ai Beach

Page 17

Wai ‘ahuakua Valley Double Door Cave

3 4

Honopu Beach

Koke‘e Aw State a ‘a wap uhi Park Tra 3.2 il 5M i

Nua lolo Tra il 3.2

il Tra u a lal Ka

Hanakapia Falls

5 7

Ho ‘olulu Valley

Hanakoa valley

M i.

Pohakanoa Falls

i. 4M

i. 2M

Hanakapiai Falls Trail

Pirates Cave

Kalalau Valley Ka lal au Va 2 M lley Tra i. il

Page 24 Hanakoa Lookout

5M i.

550

Page 26

Page 28

Page 30

Winter/Spring 2013

Taking in the Na Pali Coast

…just

outside

the reef the oce an turns a m ag i c a l co l b o lt b l u e … i n t h e e a r ly morning look f o r da n c i n g spinning

Ke‘e beach Paradise and the doorway to the Napali Coast

dolphins out here, as the y perfor m like jestor s in the r oya l co u r t of

L ak a.

Left to right: Visitors sun and swim in the lagoon. Hawaiian spinner dolphins play outside the reef. Heiu of the hula goddess Laka just out past the Coconut grove.

KE‘E BEACH

The home of the sacred hula goddess Laka, the heiau is about as exotic as it comes in Hawaii, located at the end of the northshore’s road on Kauai, it is also known as the gateway to the Napali coast trail. As you face to the west look to the left, along the cliff covered in a coconut jungle protrudes a exposed area of black lava rock walls of the Laka HEIAU, like a queen on her throne she overlooks her kingdom of the windex blue lagoon below, just outside the reef the ocean turns a magical colbolt blue, in the early morning look for dancing spinning dolphins out here,as they perform like jestors in the royal court of Laka.

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Left to right: Looking to the west end of the beach and beyond, winter surf takes the beach sand away, exposing and leaving an array of surf rounded rocks. Lets the alien like pancake rock stacking begin. Summer beach day.

HANAKAPI ‘AI

b e wa r e o f

Two miles hike from Ke’e beach, you will encounter a heavenly rain forest valley, multi green color’s, smells of a natural ammonia fill the air from the fermenting guava and tropical plants, an amazing Hanakap ‘Ai waterfall turns into a refreshing bubbling stream, that winds through the valley and cuts through the beach to the waiting ocean below, beware of the tempting ocean here, the currents are an invisible killer here to 86 people over the years—when in doubt do not go out.

t h e t e m pt i n g oce an here, the current s are an invisible

Early season winter waves begin there onslaught of the beach and coast.

killer here to

p e o p l e ov e r

the year s— when in doubt d o n o t g o o u t.

Winter/Spring 2013

Taking in the Na Pali Coast

HO ‘OLULU VALLEY

…means protected bay or waters. These are the cove caves, home of the noddy terns that nest along the cliffs and in the sea caves, the water turns electric kool aid blue, especially in the sea caves when the summer sun shines down on it reflecting off the white sand below—look above at the towering overhang off the cliffs and space rock above and you can become naturally dizzy. But, the surreal thing is the natural springs coming off the bowl shaped cliffs, they reflect the light of the sun beams that mimic a winters snowflake gently falling on your head.

Left to right: looking out zebra cave, electric green water, Windex blue to sheer lava rock cliffs.

PIRATES CAVE

The biggest—or call it the deepest sea cave on the Napali Coast, enter through a cascading waterfall, the green moss on the ceiling and white calcium streaks from the natural fresh water springs stick out in the shadows of the cave, it really reminds me of the cave from the movie The Goonies, and has the smell of your favorite old seafood restaurant at the same time.

Left to right: Kayaks deep in the pirate cave, waterfall at the entrance. looking out.

Na Pali Coast Magazine

t h e wat e r turns elec tric ko o l a i d b l u e , e s p e c i a l ly in the sea looking from east to west to zebra cave.

c av e s w h e n the summer sun shines down on it reflec ting off the white sand below

pirates cave and space rock in foreground.

Winter/Spring 2013

Taking in the Na Pali Coast

WAI ‘AHUAKUA VALLEY DOUBLE DOOR CAVE

at a c e r ta i n summer af ternoon time of the day , s o m e t h i n g

Hands down the best sea cave on the coast ,maybe one of the best in the world, it has it all, the big cathedral room and ceiling, the bright pinkish red death rock that looks like a submerged hippo, as you pass that you make the in the darkness of the 180 degree turn, your eye’s then adjust as you see into the white of the lighted tunnel hallway, but that’s not all, just as your eye’s fully adjust, the sound and then the sight of a cascading waterfall coming through the hole in the ceiling appears, wow, let me say that again WOW, this is the kind of waterfall you expect to see mermaids sitting in and combing there hair in, Oh, but there’s more, and I am just getting started, that’s right, at a certain summer afternoon time of the day, something extraordinary happens. Through the hole in the ceiling where the waterfall comes through, there appears a light beam lighting up the water fall like a bolt of lighting, something like beam me up scotty from star track, or the tunnel of light to heaven, whatever your choice it lights up an electric green cathedral glass circle, closely it resembles a green spinning galaxy in the water, in careful further examination the calcium deposits coming up from the mixing of ocean and freshwater waterfall look like ghostly moving apparitions moving up to the beam, call it what you want, this to me is the most mystic event on the Napali Coast, conditions must be right, one stubborn cloud and no spotlight no matter what time you get there, meaning that even if you get there at the right time there is no guarantee in nature you will see it, and if you do appreciate it, for you are one of the few.

e x t r ao r d i n a r y h a pp e n s .

Left to right: Top of waterfall. Looking from the inside out. Looking from the outside in—can you find the mermaids in the waterfall?

through the hole in the ceiling where t h e wat e r fa l l co m e s through, there a pp e a r s a l i g h t beam lighting u p t h e wat e r fa l l l i k e a b o lt of lightning

Na Pali Coast Magazine

The two ridges left and right of the valley make a big part of the Bali Hai ridge made famous from the movie South Pacific

HANAKOA VALLEY

there is a

Jur assic feeling here, like

A big part of the Bali Hai ridge is here,comprised of two incredable lava dykes ridges protruding up like sentries guarding each side of the tropical rain forest valley,in the middle of the valley you can see a waterfall cascading to the right,along the near coast line the shouting color of red iron ore,looks like you took a trip to Mar’s,or call it bright orange rust ,it stands out like a stop sign,in the mist of the red mar’s like soil, the dark green Hala trees stands out in contrast, looking like some alien plant formit resemble’s something from a Dr sues’s children’s book, remember Horton hear’s a who? further back on the ridge’s, the sisal plant thrives looking like a 20 foot tall asparagus for giants, everything here looks big, there is a Jurassic feeling here, like you expect a Pterodactylus or flying dinosaur to drop down from a nest on the cliffs, and I begin imagining a scene out of the movies of being swooped on,as they try to eat the passengers on the boat.

yo u e x p e c t a

P t e r o dac t y l u s

Left to right: East valley peak, middle of the valley, and east valley ridge on a summer day.

o r f ly i n g d i n o s au r t o drop down from a nest on the cliffs

Winter/Spring 2013

Taking in the Na Pali Coast

t h e c r y s ta l cle ar wat e r fa l l split s like t h e fa n g s o f a snake, as it slither s and fa l l s i n t o the oce an’s

Looking west out of the sea arch.

shallow elec tric green wat e r b e l o w

Left to right: Looking east into sea arch on a summer day, sea arch entrance.

POHAKANOA FALLS

The grey black lava Sea Arch is highlighted by Pohakanoa Falls flowing behind it, the crystal clear waterfall splits like the fangs of a snake, as it slithers and falls into the ocean’s shallow electric green water below. But, when rare sea conditions are dead calm, the opportunity to raft through it are rewarded with the rare sight of this magical lighted emerald green water below. As the raft turns to the right you face toward a natural pictured Napali coast, the sight is magnificently tunnel framed by the arch, that only highlights the distant west sea cliffs and ridge lines of the Napali coast, the feeling of the cool vapor spray coming off the waterfalls, just out of finger tip reach to your left, begin to heighten your senses of the moment, this is what makes this a real nature’s masterpiece that you will never duplicate in any of the worlds’ best museums.

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Kalalau grotto in front with the guardians of the cathedrals behind.

KALALAU VALLEY there is no doubt the

C r e at o r

giving us a real glimpse here, a s l i g h t ta s t e , o f h e av e n

Remote, deep and hushed is Kalalau, grandest of Na Pali’s near inaccessible valleys. Bowl-shaped within sheer walls of rain forest green, it’s 3 miles back and 3 miles across. Her mystic spell pervades, broken only momentarily by tour helicopters that appear like tiny, hovering mosquitoes. The valley’s great west wall ends toward the sea in cascading cathedrals of stone, with lava dikes upthrusting like their namesake, together forming three towering, knife-edged pyramids. Known as the Three Guardsmen, they take command, steadfast and true, of the second highest sea cliffs in the world. To truly describe Kalalau I must recall my own personnel and perfect experiences in this garden of Eden—the hidden waterfalls I showered beneath; the slippery-slides of water-sliced rocks to play on; the sweet perennial stream, fairy-tale like as from one’s lost childhood, flowing gently, searching through this mystic hobbit-like valley, finally to reach the love and comfort of Mother Ocean. To some, Kalalau Stream is a natural spa. Its boulders form a series of natural Jacuzzis to relax one’s tired muscles, and for any masseuse, the rocks become perfect massage tables to perfect the craft. For others the sun-warmed rocks are like beach mats without the issues of sand, naturally made for those who want that no tan-line tan. Imagine basking in the warmth of the sun, your eyes relaxed and shut, your ears tuned to the music of the running waters, and to the birds whose songs blend with the trance-like rhythmic beat of ocean waves crashing beyond onto seashore rocks. You breathe in the perfume of wild gingers whose flowers scent the stream-side air. When finally you open your eyes, and if the hypnotizing multi blue Pacific catches your gaze, you might find your beach mat of rounded stone magically turned into a front row seat to one of the greatest shows on earth—when your eyes continued on page 30 Winter/Spring 2013

Taking in the Na Pali Coast

KALALAU VALLEY

(continued)

for the first time connect with a distant 40+ ton humpback whale flying full body out of the water.

Ev ery

year

thousands make the

K a l a l au p i l g r i m ag e , from e very wa l k o f l i f e , and from all ac r o s s t h e wo r l d.

At first it is hard for the mind to register what is seen, to break it down for the mere human brain, like in absorbing the awesomeness of the power of an Apollo moon rocket in lift off. And then as the mind ponders, the whale forcibly hits the deep cobalt-blue water, shooting up a contrasting starkwhite explosion of water, the water-transformed air standing out momentarily as lightning does in the dark of night, and then comes the slow dissolve back to blue as air and water go their separate ways. You cannot take your eyes off that spot of take off and impact... anticipating more, wanting more, your’re hooked. You’ve gone beyond spellbound, the mind refusing to return, because a good Kalalau whale show is addicting, and to this day with no cure. This is only one of many things that bring people back for more, for Kalalau will change a person’s perspective of life. It’s gift’s are a treasure chest of lifetime memories— of electrifying acrobatic dolphins spinning through high-fly jumps just off the beach, or of the tastesampling of assorted fruit species deep inside the valley. To many this is where just about every human sense can be satisfied; to others it’s the complete feeling of nature’s peace that draws them back. To me, there is no doubt the Creator is giving us a real glimpse here, a slight taste, of heaven. And for that alone I am thankful. For most these descriptions of Kalalau Valley would suffice, but still, it’s incomplete without a brief story about some of the characters who visit... or stay. Every year thousands make the Kalalau pilgrimage, from every walk of life, and from all across the world. Some take the challenge by kayak. Yet others, brave and energetic (but rather few), take the 11 mile access trail from the end-of-road hamlet of Ha‘ena, considered a Level 9 for difficulty. This is no cake walk—one section is nicknamed, not figuratively, “crawlers ledge.” To many, it’s a right of passage to just reach that 11th mile. Others take the trail by sections, for a more comfortable pace. But no matter how you do it, the experience shapes every participant’s character. So imagine a very conservative couple with plans to take this trail during their carefully planned honeymoon. No doubt they will endure the trail, and each other as well. And guaranteed, they will

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Magical Kalalau valley morning.

learn much they never before knew about each other’s minds—like as who thought enough food was packed, or who was in charge of bringing the flash-light, and the mosquito coils, but didn’t. Whatever the unexpected, like when forced into temporary retreat because wild goats have taken over the crawlers’ ledge, and those mental flashes that this could well be the first and last honeymoon—all never mind. Any challenge faced and overcome would be to just make themselves a stronger team. So, being determined to finish, finally on their second day they feel the finish line: Kalalau’s beach sand beneath their feet. To the right the deep blue Pacific, in front down the beach the camper’s cave, their highly anticipated accommodations for the next 2 nights, and to the left the looming, verdant valley, beckoning.

many this

is where just about every human sense can be s at i s f i e d ; t o other s it’s t h e co m p l e t e feeling of n at u r e ’ s p e ac e t h at d r aw s t h e m b ac k .

There’s nothing like a cave of cool rock with cooled air, and a ceiling against rain. Close enough, too, to the ocean to keep most of the mosquitoes away. And to the left, the most amazing waterfall coming down right next to the beach—a perfect place to shower off the beads of hiker sweat that poured down their faces. His first thoughts: my cave woman new bride will domesticate this cave with the camping gear, and me, I will go have my first solo waterfall shower. So up he climbs to the waterfall like an excited boy scout on his first hiking trip. Wow, how cool is this? Hollowed out bamboo sticks that could be shoved up a watery crevice to get a real fire-hydrant shower! So in he went. So strong was the water that he could not hear anything, and with eyes shut and head

down against the water’s power, sometime during that 5 minutes of blind wash, he felt a presence— that he was not alone anymore. Probably his new wife come to join him, but as he turned his head round and his water-filled eyes focused, there, to his surprise, next to him were two naked hippie girls. Startled, and not knowing what to say, with eyes down he asked reflexively where they were from. The closest answered, “from where ever we are at this time.” It was high time to get back to his new bride! Giving a smile and a half wave he quickly bid goodbye. But he thought of the truth in her reply, dissecting it in his mind over and over. This was what Kalalau is all about, living free in the moment—hmmm, yes, that’s it, he thought. And his brain replied, “Aren’t we all, aren’t we all!”

The grotto with its rock chase lounges.

Winter/Spring 2013

Taking in the Na Pali Coast

HONOPU BEACH

…t h e

most

memor able is

Th e M a n

Golden

the

Gun

with

w i t h t h at

incredible scene of

Bond

James

in a red

For Hollywood, or call it Napaliwood, Honopu Beach is one of the most favored of movie sites in Hawaii. Six Days Seven Nights, King Kong, and Pirates of the Caribbean are just a few productions that easily come to mind. But the most memorable is The Man with the Golden Gun with that incredible scene of James Bond in a red helicopter chasing under and through Honopu’s natural seaside archway.

Endangered monk seal sleeps by the honopu arch.

Honopu has been called the Valley of the Lost Tribe, recalling ancient times when this now silent, brooding valley self-supported native peoples. According to one legend 300 Hawaiians lived in this remote site, shielded by its 3000-plus foot sheer cliffs. Those who explore this now deserted valley will tell of a “chicken skin” feeling, of ghostly intangibles heard, and of that uncomfortable feeling of being watched, or being followed. Some say it’s ghosts from that brutal attack that wiped out those ancient inhabitants, their troubled spirits now wandering forlornly through the Valley. Despite its verdant beauty, Honopu was probably not a place for easy living. It was a place of thundering landslides, flash floods, and early deep shadows. But on the plus side it could be easily defended. The stupendous cliffs allowed for only one access, as with a castle, but here from the ocean. A huge, narrow ridge of lava rock bridges the beachhead, as of the moat fronting a castle, to guard Honopu’s entrance. Peacefully today, its west and east beaches are divided by this stunning sea arch.

h e l i co pt e r chasing under and through

Honopu’s n at u r a l s e a s i d e a r c h way .

Honopu beach west beach and valley on a perfect sun lit day.

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Th e

r e s u lt i s

a s tag g e r i n g co l o r pa l e tt e like of a divine a r t i s t at p l ay with elec tric blue lightning b o lt s b l e n d e d into light b l u e , da r k

Open ceiling cave mimics the colors of heaven.

blue, and greens—all co n t i n u o u s ly changing, da n c i n g , spellbinding.

Left to right: Looking up, looking out from in, and looking in from out.

OPEN CEILING CAVE

The Open Ceiling Cave in mid morning summer features a wondrous sun beam streaming through a dark ceiling, penetrating the crystal clear waters and reflecting off the entrance channel’s white sandy bottom. The result is a staggering color palette like of a divine artist at play with electric blue lightning bolts blended into light blue, dark blue, and greens— all continuously changing, dancing, spellbinding. It must be seen to be fully appreciated, these colors from heaven that no mere mortal artist could ever replicate! The effect is hypnotizing, casting a kind of healing peaceful trance—so opposite to the stress of our daily lives. Even the boundaries of illuminated water seem surreal, where shadow and light blend into dark blue. Ocean swells, moving through the beam, give added life to this battle between contrastingly lighted waters—like the never ending battle between darkness and light. But the watery beam eventually fades into the dark blue textured water beyond, to finally disappear into the relaxing deep of the mystical sea. Winter/Spring 2013

Taking in the Na Pali Coast

Top to bottom: The waterfall, hanging gardens on the east cliff, Heiu on the west point

AWA‘AWAPUHI VALLEY

Sea cave spring fed hanging gardens and sheer cliff trail.

Awa‘awapuhi is the narrowest and deepest of Na Pali’s remote, isolated valleys. Some say the name refers to the valley’s sinuous curves and twists that wind between its three thousand foot walls, like a slithering eel, or puhi. But the more accurate translation is more romantic, for ‘awapuhi is the native word for the wild ginger that grows in its shady depths. Revered for its decorative and fragrant flowers, it also had many practical uses— for food and fiber, and especially for the natural shampoo that oozes from its flowering stalk.

fallen away. By sea, the valley itself is hidden from view except for its towering cliffs, for it hangs above a low sea cliff, with the valley’s stream ending in a waterfall to the sea. At the base there is now a tall natural screen of dark green hau, a native Hawaiian bush of the hibiscus family, whose bark was once used for rope-making. But there can still be seen a multitude of half-washedaway rock dams that at one time went completely through the stream to create perfect terraces for growing taro.

Nowadays this valley (Awa) of the wild ginger looks much less lush than it must have been in ancient times, for the irrigated terraces for cultivating the life-giving taro have long since

Imagine those terraced gardens in their heyday, like those of Bali except for growing taro, not rice. Farming must have been challenging then because the dark shadows of the sheer cliffs limited the

Na Pali Coast Magazine

…t h e

ac c u r at e t r a n s l at i o n … f o r ‘awa p u h i i s t h e n at i v e word for the wild ginger t h at g r o w s in it s shady d e pt h s .

Revered sunlight, and a combination of red, clay-like rocky debris from the cliffs and the rocky valley soil meant much work to hand separate out the soil to fill into the terraces. There were also episodic heavy rains and powerful flash flooding, the valley stream becoming a swollen red river that washed away everything in its path. Then the process of rebuilding the terraces and the replanting had to begin all over again. On its western side, on the point overlooking the ocean, is a rock wall heiau, or temple platform. It could be where gods of the sea and fishing were once supplicated, or, on the dark side, perhaps a dedication site to the god Ku, the god of war, to whom human sacrifice

with cannibalism was sometimes offered. Sadly, cruelty was part of most of mankind’s religions of those long ago times. Facing south, the cliff wall trail can still be seen, while to the east calcium minerals have stained the cliff with splotches of white. Above are the hau bushes, and to the bottom left is a sea cave, home to noddy terns that live entirely off the sea’s bounty. Lastly, to the right, are remains of the once hanging gardens of ti whose great leaves have a hundred uses, noni trees of powerful medicinal value, and scattered wild taro. The last are descendants of the same taro once cultivated by those ancient Polynesians who lived out their lives in this lonely valley.

for

i t s d e co r at i v e a n d f r ag r a n t flower s, it also had many p r ac t i c a l uses—for food and fiber

Winter/Spring 2013

Taking in the Na Pali Coast

NU‘ALOLO AINA VALLEY Nu‘alolo Aina is remarkable for its remains of taro growing terraces, reminders that for hundreds of years people lived their lives in this remote valley, even into the early 20th century. Adjoining it, and once connected by a primitive ladder over the separating cliff, is the abbreviated Nualolo Kai beach and valley, which also has multiple and elaborate lava rock terraces visible afar from the ocean. Taro, or kalo, grows in water and is considered a perfect food plant. Its heart-shaped green leaves and starchy root, similar to a potato, are rich

Nu‘alolo Aina on a summer morning glowing green and red.

Na Pali Coast Magazine

in nutrients. Poi, that gray paste most visiting tourists have reluctantly tasted as proper fare at a Hawaian luau, is made from the taro root. Though most say it must be an acquired taste, it was only several decades ago that poi was a staple for Kauai’s children, promoted by our local public health departments. No doubt a substantial amount of taro could be grown in Nu‘alolo ‘Aina, but was there enough for everyone? And all the time? With frequent devastations from landslides and flash floods, how many could this and the bordering valleys feed?

We don’t know, but consider this: Kauai’s population in Captain Cook times may have been close to 100,000, though only a hundred or so lived in Nu‘alolo itself. Today, Kauai’s resident population is only about 55,000, even with a relentless stream of imported food and commerce by barges every day. Taro in olden Hawaii had to be a most productive crop. It was everything, overshadowing even what could be harvested from the sea. I’m sure the youngsters then were saying something like, “Oh Mom, poi for dinner again!” But when you’re hungry everything tastes good. Actually, the beauty of poi was not just in the eating—it could also be kept for long periods without spoilage. Yes it soured, but that made it tastier.

Napali’s food supply, or its shortage, must have often incited conflicts between the peoples of bordering valleys. Remember that not even a sophisticated barge service today can closely approach Napali’s coastline when the winter surf is up. Even fishing or reef gleaning is then too dangerous. Like an impenetrable wall, the massive onslaught of monster winter waves would effectively hold prisoner all of Napali’s residents. That meant everyone in those winter times had to cooperatively cultivate taro to survive. The best producing taro fields and fishing locales were probably valued more than we value diamonds and gold today, and likely a source of much envy during hungry times. Taro was a matter of life or death in ancient Hawaii.

Remember

t h at

not even a s o p h i s t i c at e d barge service t o day c a n c l o s e ly a pp r oac h

N a pa l i ’ s coa s t l i n e w h e n the winter s u r f i s u p.

Top to bottom: Taro field lava rock terraces are today still visible from afar, they seem to stand guard to a once agriculturally rich farming valley

Winter/Spring 2013

Taking in the Na Pali Coast

Top to bottom: Endangered green sea turtles sun there shell, postguard shot accross the reef, best water colors on the planet.

NU‘ALOLO KAI The beach at Nu‘alolo Kai was the portal to the sea and its bounty for the people of the adjoining Nu’alolo ‘Aina valley. A trail and ladder down the separating cliff led to this small valley with its freshwater spring, broad beach and coral reef. A primier Napali Coast fishing village long stood here, though only traces of it now remain. Plantings behind the beach provided some foods and medicines, but it was the reef that was most important for its supply of multicolored fishes, seaweeds, and shellfish, like opihi limpets and

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Looking across the low tide reef to the area where the village once was.

pipipi snails. Even sharks were taken, like the reef white tips that, if not steadfastly patrolling the reef, sleep in the crevices bordering the white sandy bottoms. Fish and turtle pens were probably set up too on the reef to hold live catches until needed. Outrigger canoes likely lined the beach, ready for offshore fishing when schools of oceanic fishes like aku tuna and akule jacks came near. The reef, of the fringing type, is shallow and extends out from the sandy beach like a natural

I m ag i n e

the

e xcitement of a close u n d e r wat e r e n co u n t e r with one of these incredible c r e at u r e s , gentle and g r ac e f u l g r e e n

jetty. Besides providing seafoods, it also buffered the persistent onslaught of trade wind swell that rolls in nearly 80 percent of the year. At the lowest tides half the reef top will go virtually dry, the summer sun toasting its crop of golden brown seaweed. This weed, a kind of Sargassum (as in the Sargasso Sea) is a favorite food of resident green sea turtles. The turtles, in fact, are now the main attraction here. Imagine the excitement of a close underwater encounter with one of these

incredible creatures, gentle and graceful green angels that, swimming away, leave you in a state of natural peace. More common is the unexpected turtleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s head popping up from the sea surface close to the raft bringing you here. Most say its face looks like that of Kermit the Frogâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;sâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a magical connection to a childhood Sesame Street memory. During low tide the turtles gather and patiently wait just outside the reef. Then they glide in as the tide slowly swells, trying to be first to sample their favorite seaweeds.

a n g e l s t h at , s w i m m i n g away , l e av e yo u i n a s tat e o f n at u r a l p e ac e .

Winter/Spring 2013

Taking in the Na Pali Coast

MILOLI‘I BEACH Miloli‘i’s wide beach is a favorite camping spot for kayakers during spring and late summer. Earlier, the huge and relentless winter waves close the door to Na pali, even to the diehard tow-in surfers looking for one more challenge. But now the vibrant sun lights up and warms Miloli’i’s lonely and previously winter shaded beach. The cliffs brighten with color, showing off bright red stains contrasting with stark black and gray and notably with the lime-green of the mossy springs that seep through the rocks. The feral goats now abandon the beach for the high cliffs to avoid the campers and the sport hunters too, coming from above. Introduced by sailors of long ago, they are now Na Pali’s lawn

Looking up the valley.

Na Pali Coast Magazine

mowers, eating down the pili grass and any wild taro they find, even on the ancient remains of the fishing heiaus (temples). Miloli‘i is a small valley that soon becomes a narrow defile between dry, 1500 foot walls. It gets less than a quarter the rainfall of rain-forested Kalalau, yet its stream still flows year round, the last of the valleys having perennial water. This made possible human settlement that likely persisted here for hundreds of years. Besides the life-giving water, the stream provided native shrimp and o‘opu gobys, the latter a fish remarkabe for its ventral sucker that enables climbing waterfalls. These animals spend their very early life in the

sea but soon ascend and colonize the mountain streams. The Miloli‘i people also irrigated taro on the backshore flats behind the beach, and of course fished the extensive fringing reef, whose bounty is revealed even today by the rich shell collecting it offers. With the coming of summer, green sea turtles that had taken to the beach to avoid the tiger sharks hunting the murky wave-stirred shoreline, now move back out to the calm clear waters of the reef to feed. But the endangered monk seal, when present, is there year round sleeping on the beach digesting its belly full of fish—and indifferent to the presence of any people. Like when a light is switched on at a surprise party, the summer beach season begins at once

with the arrival of the kayakers, some on guided tours, others private, and many staying to camp on the beach. From the distance, the colorful kayaks scattered against the stark white sand appear like crayola crayons spilled by forgetful kids. For the diehards who have also camped at Kalalau, the beach at Miloli‘i, with its warm and dry sagey air, is a welcome respite—a place to finally dry out themselves and their gear. Unlike Kalalau, there is no connecting hiking trail into Miloli‘i. It is accessible only by small boat or kayak, and the narrow channel through the reef is especially tricky to navigate when the trades blow strong. The risk of being shipwrecked here might appeal to some romantics, but if actually realized, would surely be a very bad dream come true.

when

a light is switched on at a s u r p r i s e pa r t y , t h e s u m m e r b e ac h se ason begins at o n c e w i t h t h e a r r i va l o f t h e k aya k e r s , some on guided tour s, o t h e r s p r i vat e , and many s tay i n g t o camp on t h e b e ac h .

Top to bottom: Busy summertime kayak stop for tours, over view of beach, orange cliff stain of the seasonal waterfall, the cliffs do a imitation grand canyon look.

Winter/Spring 2013

Na Pali Coast Magazine

dolphins

living O N T H E NA PA L I C OA ST

very morning on our tour, we start with an ocean life and safety briefing before we head out to the incredible Na Pali Coast. I find passengers are shocked again and again by the dolphin portion of the briefing, where I describe what was revealed in the movie The Cove. The movie was a shocking documentary about the dolphin trade, where rich corporations are funding the exploitation of dolphins for big profit returns. These intelligent animals are inhumanely put into saltwater tanks to live, where as dolphins in the wild are pelagic creatures (e.g. they travel in family pods on migratory routes in the oceanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s deep scattering layer at night, and move back to shallow, coastal waters in the early mornings). Most would be appalled that the dolphin shows can fetch over $150,000.00 for a marine park show, and stunned to learn that the dolphins are often drugged in their tanks to keep them alive and able to cope with the stress of their artificial surroundings, which would otherwise drive them to suicide. Continued on page 46

Winter/Spring 2013

Questions people ask me

hy are dolphins so important to humans? What have they done for me lately? Am I down on Sea World? OK, Good questions, that I will answer from a captain of a vessel witnessing thousands of dolphin encounters over my years. The dolphins are so intelligent, they risk their lives to put humans into safety, and this is evidence of their connection to humans. There are endless accounts through history of people being saved from drowning by dolphins, and of dolphins protecting surfers and swimmers from sharks, by putting themselves between the human and the shark, and even bumping into the shark to fend them off. I grew up living close to Sea World, and what I believed was fine and normal dolphin behavior in tanks is such a sharp contrast to how to the perspective I have now as a captain seeing dolphins everyday in the wild. It is not normal for them to be in captivity. They are quick and agile, they move effortlessly in the wake of the boat, they give us pleasure in feeling their excitment as they spin and jump through the air. We are always touched by the new baby’s that spin in the air next to their mothers, like little footballs. An then there’s the “eye chat” where we catch them looking at us from below the water’s surface. Watching their acrobatics is just about the best stress release for any human to experience. We just need to set up future parks where we do not try to change them, or take them out of their natural roles, but let them change us. I see a future where park boats can take people to see and experience something real. Remember dolphins need to and deserve to be in the ocean. 44

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Th e y

a r e q u i c k a n d ag i l e , t h e y m ov e e f f o r t l e s s ly i n t h e wa k e o f

t h e b oat , t h e y g i v e u s p l e a s u r e i n f e e l i n g t h e i r e x c i t m e n t a s t h e y spin and jump through the air.

a r e a lway s t o u c h e d b y t h e n e w

b a b y â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s t h at s p i n i n t h e a i r n e x t t o t h e i r m o t h e r s

Winter/Spring 2013

Dolphins Living On the Na Pali Coast

(continued)

Th e s u r v i va l of one of the most intelligent species on the p l a n e t, t h e dolphin, is in our hands

I watch people’s face’s cringe when I tell people that in 2010, 23,000 dolphins in Japan were slaughtered and fed unknowingly to innocent children and adults. In some places of Japan, certain dolphins that once lived there are now extinct. Which makes everyone think, what would our planet be like without dolphins as part of the ecosystem? When people ask what the dolphin numbers are at, it is sad to say that they are down. 46

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Many of our clients are American baby boomers that grew up watching “Flipper” on television. And so we all thought that buy tuna labeled as “dolphin safe” was enough to preserve these intelligent creatures. The academy award winning dolphin movie, The Cove, documents the Ric O’Barry story, aka the pioneer trainer of Flipper the dolphin, a show that put Flipper into every household in America. To me this was the best show ever made

about dolphins because it created an awareness of what overfishing and marine pollution is doing to our oceans. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an updated track record on what we humans are all to be held accountable for, helping aid the well being of the ocean and what lives within it. The survival of one of the most intelligent species on the planet, the dolphin, is in our hands again. So what can we all do? Three simple things to change the world for the better: 1) Next time you see that

plastic bottle on the ground, take responsibility for it being there and go recycle it so it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t end up in the seas; 2) Try to use aluminum personal bottles instead of plastic ones; 3) Support products whose packaging shows a commitment to create less waste. Remember that the average plastic bottle takes over a thousand years to decompose, and there are thousands of miles of floating plastic garbage in the ocean at present. Winter/Spring 2013

is the c al ming spring and summer time conditions on the

N apali C oa s t

that allow our r af t the bes t

Sea Cave chances to enter the se a c aves and arches there .

e v i e w

s the boat Captain I know what is on the tip of my customers tongues. “Will we be able to get into the sea caves? Honestly?” I reply that it is never a guarantee; every day the ocean conditions can change. We will go in as long as we can come out. To keep the wind in their sails, I humor them. “Napali has a mind of her own, like my wife,” I reply. I understand, because I love the caves too.

Their eyes beam with excitement as we enter a cave, drinking in its allure, its mystery—this magical and unique world that leaves most people momentarily spellbound. Most will admit to never having seen anything like it before. Then the excitement triggers the questions that fire at me like a machine gun. “How did this form”? “What makes that heavenly Windex blue color to glow on the cave’s open ceiling?” “Are those ghosts in the spotlight of the Double Door cave?” “How did that waterfall get in there?” “What is that purple and blood red color along the cave’s tideline?” “What kind of birds are nesting in there?” “What movies were filmed here?” I think I need to have a tranquilizer gun just to slow down the onslaught of questions, but the truth is I am just as excited as they are, and it never gets old. You can’t get into the sea caves every day, but when you do, it is always a new experience. Like the Open Ceiling cave, which can be with or without mid morning sunbeams, but like two different caves to be experienced. The Napali Coast caves can give the best day of your vacation as well as of your life. Let us describe in detail the caves and arches you will be visiting. 48

Na Pali Coast Magazine

open ceiling cave

Na Pali Coast Magazine

First the Open Ceiling cave. As our raft enters on the left side, look for the electric blue glow of the water that contrasts with the shadowed black ledge that looks like beaten metal. Sunbeams entering the cave can penetrate through the summertime calm and crystal-clear water and reflect off the white sand bottom, giving forth the heavenly blue color. The feeling imparted is surreal, leaving most people speechless, and with a deep calming peace, like in a relaxed trance. Some call it a healing color, I think, as it temporarily, at least, relieves stress and its ailments. This cave alone under the right conditions will justify your Hawaii vacation, as you leave more relaxed than ever.

Yo u

c a n â&#x20AC;&#x2122; t g e t i n t o t h e s e a c av e s e v e r y day , b u t w h e n yo u d o , i t i s a lway s a n e w e x p e r i e n c e .

Winter/Spring 2013

Honopu sea cave has its own unique features and views. As you enter, look back at the waterfall behind you; it is framed in by the cave entrance. Look for schools of small fish below, hiding in the shadows and maybe a white-tip reef shark looking to make a meal of those fish; see the the nesting noddy terns looking for their next meal. As you get deeper into the cave, the walls of the cave edges stand out more. The gray to black lava rock contrasts with the coral growing at the surf line with colors from pink to blood red.

Na Pali Coast Magazine

honopu sea cave

Look

f o r s c h o o l s o f s m a l l f i s h b e l ow , h i d i n g i n

t h e s h a d ow s a n d m ay b e a w h i t e - t i p r e e f s h a r k looking to make a me al of those fish

Winter/Spring 2013

honopu sea arch

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Its

o m i n o u s wa l l s t ow e r ov e r

30 0 0

f e e t,

w i t h f l u t e d wa l l s co n t r a s t i n g f r o m l i m e t o da r k g r e e n .

Honopu Sea arch may be called Napali Wood sea arch from the movie filmed there. Other movies have been made at this location, including Pirates of the Caribbean, King Kong (the older remake), James Bond, and The Man with the Golden Armâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;with that dramatic helicopter scene of flying through the arch. There is an air of mystery here, for Honopu Valley that the arch fronts has been nick-named Valley of the Lost Tribe. Its ominous walls tower over 3000 feet, with fluted walls contrasting from lime to dark green. Looking westward down the beach through the arch, look for the glimmer of the water fall shining through the foliage. Many stories are told of this valley as haunted by ancient warrior spirits. Perhaps there was once a traumatic battle here that left souls imprisoned and wandering to haunt the valley for eternity. Winter/Spring 2013

sea arch

Sea arch is just around the corner from Hanakoa valley On rare occasions when it is flat calm, the experience of going through this arch is amazing. High-lighteded by a rushing waterfall right next to the raft, you take a ninety degree turn as you pass through. The view looking west as you begin to exit the arch is a post card moment: the Napali coastline at its finestâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;waterfalls plunging into the sea, Jurassic Green sea cliffs above, and below, water glowing out-of-thisworld Windex blue. 56

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Th e

v i e w l o o k i n g w e s t a s yo u b e g i n t o e x i t t h e arch is a pos t card moment

Winter/Spring 2013

waâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;iahuakua sea cave

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Wa‘iahuakua Sea cave—bottom-line, the best sea cave in Hawaii—known to most as the Double Door cave. Entering through the back door with a trickling waterfall above, a large room appears. To the left is a narrow channel between the cave wall on the left and the Death Rock. The channel at first appears to go nowhere. Then turning hard left, look down a long dark hallway with a distant light at the end. As your eyes start to adjust to the darkness, you are pleasantly surprised with a waterfall inside the hallway, and when the afternoon summer light comes through the hole of the waterfall cave, an erie spotlight appears in the cave hallway, like a multi colored glass window. Calcium deposits rise through the spot-light appearing like ghosts. The beam of light is further high-lighted by the mist from the waterfall, appearing like a scene from Star Trek. Looking at the waterfall, one almost expects to see mermaids sitting and combing their hair. This cave goes beyond any expectation.

yo u r e y e s s ta r t t o a d j u s t t o t h e da r k n e s s ,

yo u a r e p l e a s a n t ly s u r p r i s e d w i t h a wat e r fa l l i n s i d e t h e h a l lway

Winter/Spring 2013

Honololo sea cave is nick-named the Pirates Cave. A rushing waterfall guards its entrance, providing every passenger daring to enter with a cooling shower. It is the biggest of the caves, and with the highest ceiling that is covered with green mosses. It reminds one most of the cave in the movie The Goonies.

honololo sea cave

Na Pali Coast Magazine

r u s h i n g wat e r fa l l g ua r d s i t s e n t r a n c e ,

p r ov i d i n g e v e r y pa s s e n g e r da r i n g t o e n t e r w i t h a co o l i n g s h ow e r

Winter/Spring 2013

honololo cove

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Honololo Cove is three caves in one. On the far right is Zebra cave with calcium lines against black lava; in the middle is the Godzilla Egg cave with big round rocks covered with bright pink corals; and to the left is the Skull cave shaped like a skull. Winter/Spring 2013

The

Greatest

Show on Earth

There

However, special ones stand out in my of H umpback whale encounter s memory as being the greatest show on earth. that N a Pali R ider s ’ is tre ated Humpback whales perform breaching by to e ach y e ar . flipping themselves entirely out of the water in an air attack so intense; it’s like a rocket coming full blast out of the sea. Their power is awesome. They twist in midair, and land smack on their side with a loud bang. Today I met a whale I’ll never forget (we later named him Hollywood). He was a young male trying to impress a female in waters right off our raft. are li ter ally hundreds

Hollywood was not a very big whale but he sure had a lot of heart, a real showstopper. We came across Hollywood in a totally stationary state, with a loyal girlfriend whale at his side. We turned off the engines and allowed the trade winds to float our raft in their general direction, and as the whales got closer to the boat, it became one of the most amazing encounters we’ve had. The amount of white coloring on this male made him appear turquoise near the surface of the water. The whale couple was positioned right below the raft, sending every passenger on board into a state of sheer excitement about what we were about to see. We peered down and realized that Hollywood and his girl were about 20 feet below the raft, and looking straight up at us. This lasted for five long minutes and then the whales disappeared into the deep, blue depths of the sea. Everyone looked at one another and had to agree that we had been a part of something truly special, not knowing that is was about to get even better. Now, in the near distance, Hollywood showed off his youth and endurance with a series of breaches to everyone’s delight. We all had to stare in awe as we witnessed at least 20 full breaches, with great twisting action and huge splashes. There are whales and then there are whales. And Hollywood will be stamped into my memory forever.

Na Pali Coast Magazine

co n t e m p

Na Pali Coast Magazine

l at i o n s

from the captain As I I

ga ze out to the oce an,

of ten think about the

e xc i t e m e n t g e n e r at e d w h e n people witness the very l arge

(~50 - f t ) H u m b pac k

whales

b r e ac h i n g o u t o f t h e wat e r .

believe this exuberance is universal. I feel that they appear like rockets launching into outer space, as are precise and incredibly powerful. When their massive bodies hit the water, their splash seems intense enough to generate a tidal wave across the whole entire ocean! Whenever I see a series of blowholes spraying water mist into the air, it always brings peace to my soul. There is always a great anticipation I get each year for the upcoming whale season in Kauai. Weeks before they are due to arrive, I find myself sometimes searching in vain for any signs that these creatures have returned to the islands. I easily recall the excitement we felt last season when Hawaii’s first spotted Humpback Whale was seen. As you may gather, I have a true love for the Humpback Whale. Their acrobatic skills are show stoppers. Their intelligence amazes me. They make beautiful music, composing their whale songs under the deep blue sea. When Chris Morakis, Publisher of Aloha – Kauai Visitor Guide, contacted me recently, I asked him if I could compose a short whale story for an upcoming issue. This is not about your basic whale breaching encounter, but a from-the-heart experience I had one season. I’ve always believed that whales exhibit many human-like characteristics and what I witnessed makes me feel this even more. Well, Chris accepted the idea, so here it goes… Winter/Spring 2013

When I was a naïve fifteen years old, I went to my first funeral. The funeral was for a surf judge’s girlfriend, who had just passed away after experiencing a fatal epileptic A l l o n t h e r a f t seizure. Out of respect, we attended the funeral, not really s at i n d e a f e n i n g knowing what to expect. Of course, there was the formal, black s i l e n c e , s ta r i n g i n attire and the muffled sounds of sobbing heard from the crowd. u n i s o n at t h e m a s s And then the priest recited the comforting words of the scriptures o f w h a l e s , a n d and explained that there is life after death for this young woman. t r y i n g t o f i g u r e o u t The casket was closed, so we did not experience the viewing of her w h at wa s h a pp e n i n g lifeless body, and also did not really feel any emotion or loss b e f o r e u s since we had personally not had a relationship with the deceased. Fast-forward some 33 years later. It’s now January 31, 2010, at 7:30 am in the morning. Here we are, captain, crew and passengers on a whale-watching adventure to the Na Pali Coast of Kauai. The ocean conditions were magical on this day, the surface of the water could best be described as the appearance of an oil slick (minus the oil)—incredibly smooth (“glassy”) and dark in color. Looking out at the horizon, I spotted approximately seven Humpback whales huddled together. This struck me as a rather odd display. There was not the usual scene of a female slapping her pectoral fin to signal that she was ready to mate, and there was no tail slapping from any of the other whales. I cut the engines on the raft. All on the raft sat in deafening silence, staring in unison at the mass of whales, and trying to figure out what was happening before us. Were they sleeping or logging (possible resting state where whales lie horizontally at the surface without swimming)? And why were they huddled in such tight formation? 68

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Suddenly, some haunting sounds vibrated off the hull of the raft, sounding like a cross between Scottish Bag Pipes and the cries of a newborn baby. The deep sounds seemed to stem from within their souls, like the release of painful emotion. I have never in my many years of whalewatching felt such intense sorrowful sensation. Then came the next shock. I witnessed the sight of a lifeless baby whale, draped over the hump of the mother whale. The body was indeed that of a stillborn baby whale, rubberized, gray, and lifeless. In vain, the mother Humpback whale was persistently pushing the body of her dead baby to the surface as if for it to have any chance to breathe. The rest of the whales surrounding her seemed to understand her agony, and were there to protect and comfort her. This appeared as if it was their funeral for the stillborn. This day will remain forever in my memory. All of us on the raft were so quiet and still. We were so moved by the scene of emotion that these intelligent creatures displayed. The pod’s sensitivity to the mourning mother and baby seemed the same that we, as humans, would express for our loved ones. My sister once revealed to me that my mother had a stillborn child before I was born. My mother never told me this, but I can understand why. The pain that she felt would be no different than the pain felt by the Humpback Whale Mother I saw that day. Their ability to feel and express emotion and pain appears no different from that of humans. I urge everyone who comes to Kauai to go on a whale-watching tour, or simply choose to watch these creatures from the shore. They are truly magnificent animals in all aspects of size, intelligence, and acrobatic skill. My hope is that visitors interacting with Humpback whales will encourage people to want to protect them, by supporting the ban on hunting whales and mindless slaughter of these rare and beautiful creatures.

S u d d e n ly,

s o m e h au n t i n g s o u n d s v i b r at e d o f f t h e h u l l

o f t h e r a f t, s o u n d i n g l i k e a c r o s s b e t w e e n

B ag P i p e s

S co tt i s h

and the cries of a ne wborn baby

pure.

unpredictable.

excitement. Th e

f u l l g r e at m e a s u r e o f a h u m p b ac k

whale momen t! m a k e yo u r

Th e

memory of it will

H awa i i a n

w i n t e r vac at i o n a

s ta n d o u t â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a p i n n ac l e a m o n g a l l yo u r vac at i o n s .

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;r e

ta l k i n g a b o u t t h e

h u m p b ac k b r e ac h i n g s h o w , p e r h a p s t h e m o s t aw e s o m e o n t h e p l a n e t .

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Winter/Spring 2013

pure. unpredictable. excitement.

…that

humpback

whale watching is addic ting, t h at t h e r e i s no cure , so you had jus t be tter pl an to be here e very winter in

H awa i i

to ge t

your whale fix

hat’s the big deal? It’s about 50 tons of whale catapulting from the water, the power of it all, like as the space shuttle lifts off from its launchpad! You have to experience it to understand, to explain. Could you fully explain to your child the thrill of a roller coaster before they themselves have experienced it? The humpbacks are here only in the winter, and so you can easily miss the boat—miss the opportunity to experience dinosaur-sized animals up close—close enough to smell them, to feel their spray, to hear

Na Pali Coast Magazine

their thunder. Often there can be ten huge male humpbacks competing, battling, and relentlessly chasing a perspective female mate. Experiencing the spectacle, I believe, will change any human’s perspective about our place in the natural world. There are somewhere close to twelve thousand humpbacks spread out along the Hawaiian chain each winter, here to mate, to give birth. The fifty ton mom’s gestation is one year, her baby is 12-14 feet long, weighting in at 1-1.5 tons. Mom’s milk is so rich that baby will grow an

average of a hundred pounds, and about on inch bigger in length, each day. The babies are curious, and if weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re lucky, we get to see one close up as it strays from mom to check out our boatâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;to the sounds of our WOWs and HOLY COWs at the unbelievable Discovery Channel AWE moment. People ask, over and over, if that really just happened, and my answer is always the same, that humpback whale watching is addicting, that there is no cure, so you had just better plan to be here every winter in Hawaii to get your whale fix. Once will never be enough! Winter/Spring 2013

W IN T ER

Whale

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Fights One

of the mos t e xciting e v ent s to witne ss in

H awa i i ’ s

w i n t e r h u m p b ac k w h a l e s e a s o n i s t h e

rive ting sight of

8 -10

g i a n t m a l e s b att l i n g f o r

t h e att e n t i o n o f a f e m a l e h u m p b ac k . t h e a n n ua l h u m p b ac k

“whale

Th e s e

are

f i g h t s .”

Winter/Spring 2013

Th e r e

h av e

been times where a female h a s ta k e n refuge under a b oat t o res t from the e n d l e s s b att l e for her.

And

some times all the whales j u s t s t o p, i n a n e x h au s t e d s tat e , a s i f someone has called half time in the middle of the

â&#x20AC;&#x153; Whale

S u p e r b o w l .â&#x20AC;?

Na Pali Coast Magazine

he male humpback whales attempt to chase the female humpback as they line up in a row. Huge heads lunge up, while males relentlessly try to land head blows at each other. Breaching blows are permitted too. This is when a whale goes airborne in his attempt to dislodge a male that has attained a poll position next to the female. Whale tail blows are so intense that blood can be drawn. The ultimate goal is to get to the female at the front of this whale train. But the female humpback is the train conductor. She controls what direction they will go and she can also just take off with any suitor she chooses. She has the power to call off the “Whale Superbowl” mating game whenever she wants, though sometimes the players do not “hear the whistle.” There have been times where a female has taken refuge under a boat to rest from the endless battle for her. And sometimes all the whales just stop, in an exhausted state, as if someone has called half time in the middle of the “Whale Superbowl.” And then almost instantly, like clockwork, they regain their composure and go full force back into the game. Once in a while you may see dolphins circling around the fight – speeding along with the hair turn ability of an Indy racecar driver. Are they cheering the whales on? Every battle looks the same from a distance, but there are always different players with their own unique battle techniques. Take a Na Pali boat trip this winter and see these incredible creatures up close. It is an awesome experience—one that could provide memories to last a lifetime. And please help protect the humpbacks by removing marine debris from beaches, supporting sanctions against illegal whaling and contributing to marine preservation research. Most boat captains are very aware and sensitive to the whale’s movements. Respect humpback whale approach regulations, they will get you nearby for great viewing.

Th e

u lt i m at e g oa l i s t o g e t

t o t h e f e m a l e at t h e f r o n t of this whale tr ain.

But

the

f e m a l e h u m p b ac k i s t h e t r a i n co n d u c t o r .

Winter/Spring 2013

once met a

Vie tnam Ve ter an

who told me a story about his unique experience on

N a P a l i C o a s t. Th i s heard about

N a Pa l i

man had from an

army buddy who procl aimed it to be the most special pl ace on earth.

Well,

the army

buddy didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make it out of

Vie tnam,

b u t t h i s m a n wa s

d e t e r m i n e d t o v i s i t a n d pay t r ibu t e to his los t fr iend.

na pali gump 78

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Winter/Spring 2013

Na Pali Coast Magazine

One

o f t h e h i pp i e s g r ac i o u s ly l oa n e d h i m a s u r f b oa r d , a n d

a d v i s e d h i m t o ta k e a pa d d l e ov e r t o n e a r b y j u s t a r o u n d t h e co r n e r f r o m

o, at the start of the Kalalau Trail, he was surprised to stumble upon a camp of hippies living in treehouses in a clothingoptional lifestyle. They had created gardens of organic fruits and vegetable, and yes, even the marijuana was organic. He did not know until later that he had found the now infamous Taylor Camp. After nearly a week of being adopted by this new community of friends, who shared countless tales of the Na Paliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous Kalalau

H o n o p u B e ac h ,

K a l a l au

Valley, this man decided to begin his journey down the treacherous 11-mile trail. Along the trail at Hanakoa, a stampede of goats rushed past him, and nearly knocked him off the cliff. If it werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t for a conveniently located notch in the earth, he would have certainly met his death as there was a 300foot drop to the sea below. Completely shaken, he relaxed his nerves with a little bit of kind herb from his Taylor Camp friends, and set forth on the trail. When he reached Kalalau Valley, it was everything Winter/Spring 2013

c l a i m e d t h at a l l t h r o u g h t h e n i g h t h e s aw t h e

r o c k s s ta n d u p a n d ta k e s h o r t wa l k s o n t h e b e ac h , p r o b a b ly v i s i o n s r e s u lt i n g f r o m h e at s t r o k e

Na Pali Coast Magazine

he had been told, and more. He was immediately befriended by another group of hippies, similar to the last set at Taylor Camp. One of the hippies graciously loaned him a surfboard, and advised him to take a paddle over to nearby Honopu Beach, just around the corner from Kalalau. So this man, already naked, jumped on the surfboard with rubber slippers and a sack of granola held in his teeth, and paddled over to Honopu. Just picture it, a naked guy on a surfboard. When he reached the first cliff at Honopu, he attempted, in vain, to climb the practically vertical wall of rock, and quickly gave into letting the waves take him on to the beach instead. So tired at that point, and so thirsty was he, that he found the waterfall at Honopu offering fresh water, and he laid to rest. He awoke a few hours later to the sound of crashing waves thumping on the sandy beach, and harsh reality set in that he would not be able to get back to Kalalau that day. But remember, he was still naked, and the day turned to night and boy did it get cold. So cold did it get that he had to dig a hole in the sand and bury his body in it to prevent hypothermia. He claimed that all through the night he saw the rocks stand up and take short walks on the beach, probably visions resulting from heat stroke. And all night he negotiated with God to let him live and he will promise to be a better this or that. And sure enough, the next morning the surf had subsided and he quickly paddled back to Kalalau. He swore to never go back to Honopu Valley again, it was haunted for sure. And I looked in his eyes and believe at least part of his story had to be true. The shape of Honopu Valley allows sound to be transmitted like that in a large amphitheater. Some friends of mine hiked 2-miles into the valley and there they heard the sounds of joyous laughter and cheering. The voices were inches away, or so it seemed. But they were alone in the valley, and truly perplexed, they climbed upwards to a ledge where they would be able to get a large view of their surroundings. When they were able to survey a large, wide area, noticed a couple of kayakers way down at the mouth of the bay, with hundreds of Spinner dolphins surrounding the kayaks. The voices were from the kayakers, who were screaming with delight at the acrobatic skills of the jumping Spinner dolphins around them.

Winter/Spring 2013

Hig

Na Pali Coast Magazine

gh Tide

feast Sever al I

summer s ago

recall seeing a dead g oat o n t h e r e e f at

H a n a k o a Va l l e y.

Th e

p o o r g oat h a d

lost its footing and fa l l e n t o i t s d e at h , l anding right smack on the exposed reef l e d g e , o n ly

2-3

feet

above se a level.

After about four days baking in the hot, summer sun the smell had become strong enough to literally make you start to dry heave. I remember passing the corpse on the fifth day thinking what a stink this guy is, this couldn’t be good for business and how long will it be before the smell would dissipate? Summer afternoon tides rise high and like magic as we passed back down the coast the tide had taken the carcass away, to my delight. But was it really gone? Was it? Then I saw what appeared from a distance to be an upside down table floating on the surface of the water, with the bobbing legs sticking straight up in the air. The table was moving erratically as if it were alive, but the legs were stiff as can be. As I got closer I quickly figured it out. It was the goat, and its dead carcass was being savagely mauled by no less than six hungry white tip reef sharks.

As I

got closer

f i g u r e d i t o u t.

q u i c k ly wa s t h e

g o at, a n d i t s d e a d c a r c a s s wa s b e i n g s ava g e ly m au l e d by no less than six hungry white tip reef sharks.

It reminded me of seeing my young daughters devour an ice creme sundae with chocolate syrup dripping down there mouths. Before the carcass floated out to sea, these sharks must have been waiting in anticipation for days as the goat’s blood scent tickled their senses from above, and streamed out into the ocean with the tide, whose gentle lower tide lapping against the carcass like basting a turkey on Thanksgiving. No doubt the sharks sensed this meal for days before it was presented with the high July tide, just like I know that sense of Christmas turkey dinner smell that drives me past the oven four to five times before it’s ready to pull out. I could relate to these sharks in a way, that as the designated carver of the Thanksgiving turkey, I did my share of shark instinct sampling back in the kitchen, but quick and stealthy as not to get caught by the relatives. I got full so fast I had a hard time eating later at the dinner table, and trying to explain to my wife why I was just not that hungry after all… 86

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Summer

a f t e r n o o n t i d e s r i s e h i g h a n d l i k e m ag i c a s w e pa s s e d

b ac k d o w n t h e coa s t t h e t i d e h a d ta k e n t h e c a r c a s s away , t o m y d e l i g h t.

But

wa s i t r e a l ly g o n e ?

Wa s

it?

Winter/Spring 2013

A once in a lifetime Miloliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;i tow-in surfing day. When I checked the ocean and weather conditions at 5:00am, the NOAA weather forecast was tracking swells at 22-feet at 28 seconds and building from the west direction. And how big were the waves at 8:00 am? Good question. Erik got this photo shot. In my brain I was just hoping the channel would not close out. The surfer in the photos is 6 feet tall, so you can calculate the height of the swell that day. Tow-in surfing is done with a team effort of a jet ski or wave riding vehicle

Na Pali Coast Magazine

and a waterman friend. The waterman is the one friend that holds your last lifeline if you take a bad wipeout. The difference between your life and your death. Trust is key, as most all of us want to enjoy another day of life. Waiting to see Miloliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;i break like this is rare, it is like waiting for Quiksilverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s big wave surfing contest in memory of Eddie Aikau to be held. That contest started back in 1984, and has only run 8 times from its start dateâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;since waves must reach a minimum of 20-feet for the contest to be held.

Winter/Spring 2013

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Mana crack is Located a mile off shore from the end of polihale beach, and the far westend of the Napali coast. It is a place that is 100 feet deep of crystal clear water, and has an abundance of sealife life, from endangered species like the false killer whales to the incredible home of the Humpback whale. So many whales visit here in the winter, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nickname is the whale hotel. This special aquatic place has it all and is known to few as the mana crack reef. Winter/Spring 2013

This was 2011 summer time, and a more common site than one would think. Strong tradewinds combined with relentless windswells drag and pull up just about most sand anchor on the market, I remember 10 years ago I tryed in vain to pull a smaller sail boat back out to sea in a similar

Na Pali Coast Magazine

state, but once the water wieght got into the sail boat, that was all she wrote. I thought that it would be an eyesore and that it would be on the beach forever, but like magic after the first winter swellâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;overnightâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;it vaperized and vanished by the incredible power of the Hawaiian waves.

Winter/Spring 2013

Na Pali Coast Magazine

January 25, 2013. This is my first real good breech shot, It happened during your classic whale battle. This guy continued to breech towards the female. But it is still a lot like shooting lightingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;you never know when or where it will really happen. I like the droplets to the reflecting shadow of the whale on the surface glass. My only gripe is that he did not completely come out of the water and do the air whale Jordan.

Winter/Spring 2013

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Glass ball at Kalalau. All my life I have searched for the elusive Japanese fishing glass ball. They only make plastic ones these days, so it was beyond rareâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a lot like finding bigfoot. You know he is there but you have to wait for it on their terms. Basically, I gave up on the thought it would ever happen. Then one smooth water varible wind day two miles outside of Kalalau valley there it was. I blinked, then blinked againâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; a big green glass ball with barnicles and hitchhiker crabs on it. The jewel or trophy of my home display was now complete. Winter/Spring 2013

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Great shot, but a sad story. These guys are the best at everything they doâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;it is a job that no one wants to do. This day they were looking for a body of a tourist who drowned at Hanakapihi beach the day before. Known for its dangerous heavy shore break surf on the beach, tourists have been clearly forewarned over the years by the sign that clearly gives a drowned body tallyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;one that exceeds the eighty plus fatalities over the years. It warns of the dangers in unforgiving currents of the water. But it just never seems to stop people from testing the water and pushing there limits. Winter/Spring 2013

napalicoastmagazine.com

Classic Kalalau valley on a cold Winter’s day. Cool musty air gets blown out the valley by the southeast offshore breeze. The vog—or volcanic ash—give the the Edge of the guardians a mystic look. The colors contrast from the yellow grass fields to rusty red iron ore soil, and the contrast of the windex blue water with the emarald blue of the deep sea.