Just Say Cheese The California Cheese Trail

Dry Jack Aging Racks Photo courtesy of Vella Cheese

Just Say Cheese

Enjoy a Slice of the California Cheese Trail

 BY JESS LANDER

A drive through Sonoma reveals not just vineyards on the region’s rolling green hills but also herds of happy grazing cows. So while most tourists make the trek to sample Sonoma’s premium Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, a little-known secret is that there are nearly 30 working farms and creameries producing a wide array of handcrafted cheeses — and many of them welcome visitors. The California Cheese Trail meanders through approximately 100 miles of Sonoma County and depending on the property, farm and creamery tours, cheese tastings, and even cheesemaking classes may be on the menu.

Here are seven spots to sample, purchase, and tour along Sonoma’s segment of the California Cheese Trail.

ACHADINHA CHEESE

Sparkle the cow Photo courtesy of Achadinha

At this Petaluma Creamery, cheesemaking is in their blood. Owner Jim Pacheco is a third-generation dairyman whose family history of farming in California goes back over 70 years, and today, the fourth generation is carrying on the tradition. Achadinha doesn’t take themselves too seriously and has acquired a local following for their California Crazy Curds, which come in several flavors like Lonely Goat Garlic and Hot Hilda. They also make Cowpricious and Broncha, both an aged cow and goat milk cheese.

Visitors can sign up for farm tours, offered most Saturdays at 11 a.m. (check their website schedule to be sure), which include a tour of the cheese plant, a cheese tasting, and some “Animal TLC” with the “girls” — their goats and cows with silly names like The Queen and Holy Goat. Hands-on classes were suspended during COVID-19 but will hopefully return soon. // achadinhacheese.com

Achadinha Family Photo by Brianna Marie Photography

JOE MATOS CHEESE & FARMSTEAD CO.

For anyone who has never heard of St. Jorge cheese, they’re likely not alone. Joe Matos is the only dairy around making this Portuguesestyle raw milk cheese, which originates from São Jorge, an island in the Açores archipelago from which owners Joe and Mary Matos hail. Since 1979, they’ve produced the cheese of their homeland in Santa Rosa.

Turn at the white and green sign and travel down a quarter-mile gravel road to this rustic farmstead (open daily) set in the middle of a working farm, where the Matos’ herd of cows resides. Enter through the cheese factory salesroom to sample and purchase St. Jorge aged three, six, nine, and 16 months. While there, pick up some of their heritage-raised beef, too. // joemattoscheeseco.com

BOHEMIAN CREAMERY

Most cheesemakers specialize in one or a few styles of cheese, but Bohemian Creamery in the tiny “bohemian” town of Occidental, runs the gamut. They’ve all got cheeky names too; for example, take Romeo, their longest-aged goat cheese that rests up to 15 months, Cowabunga, a tangy cow’s milk cheese, and Flower Power, a fresh and tart Jersey cheese.

Swing by the charming shop on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays for cheese tastings, cheese plates, and to buy fromage by the pound. They also offer tours of their cheesemaking facility and aging rooms on Saturdays and Sundays at 1 p.m. Grab some fro-yo on the way out in fun flavors like apricot and Mexican chocolate. // bohemiancreamery.com

WM COFIELD CHEESEMAKERS

Keith Adams of WM Cofield Photo by Will Bucquoy

The cheese at Wm Cofield is quite scrumptious. Tucked away in Sebastopol’s The Barlow marketplace, this tiny cheese factory churns out “proper” British cheese: a complex, Stilton-inspired blue and a lush, cloth-bound aged cheddar. Both are delicious, but the biggest crowd-pleaser is Wm’s cheese curds, sold by the bag.

Wm Cofield is a partnership between two friends, award-winning cheesemaker Keith Adams and Napa Valley winemaker Rob Hunter (formerly of Markham, Sterling, and currently at Bennett Lane Winery). Visitors to the cheese shop can sample the cheese, check out the aging room and processing equipment, and then take some home. // wmcofieldcheese.com

PETALUMA CREAMERY

This Petaluma cheese shop has a bonus treat: ice cream. Be transported back in time at this Gold Rush-styled cheese shop, where one can sample and purchase the creamery’s Organic Spring Hill Jersey Cheese in flavors like garlic jack, smoked yellow aged cheddar, and pesto jack. Or grab a coffee, breakfast, lunch, or a cone (the lavender ice cream is heavenly).

Established in 1913, the creamery supports over 10 local dairy farming families and is even an official cheese partner with Chipotle Mexican Grill. While there, sign up for their monthly subscription cheese box and never be without. // springhillcheese.com

VELLA CHEESE COMPANY

Sonoma’s longest-standing fromagerie, Vella, has been making cheese on the Sonoma Plaza since 1939, and sustainability has been a major focus for the past two decades. The first solar-powered business in Sonoma County, Vella’s milk is sustainably farmed from happy free-range cows, and they put their whey back into a local dairy and vineyards to enrich their crops.

Visit Vella’s small shop to pick up Italianstyle cheeses, like Asiago and Toma, dry jacks — even in a Habanero flavor — high moisture jacks, and cheddars. They also have an array of variety packs and specialty boxes, which make great gifts. // vellacheese.com

VALLEY FORD CHEESE & CREAMERY

Run by a mother and son duo that goes five generations deep in the dairy industry, this is the perfect place to stop on the way out to Bodega to grab provisions for a beach picnic. Valley Ford makes four kinds of cheese: Highway 1, an old-style fontina, Estero Gold, a monstasio style, Estero Gold Reserve, aged a minimum of 18 months, and their newest cheese, Grazin’ Girl, a gorgonzola. Pull over at the barn storefront in the one-block town of Valley Ford, located less than 10 miles from the coast. In addition to their cheeses, Valley Ford sells local beer and wine, coffee, soft serve, and other locally produced items. // valleyfordcheese.com

FOR MORE INFORMATION: cheesetrail.org // For a map of the California Cheese Trail, visit: cheesetrail.org/trail-map/