Catania Kiosks: A Refreshing Experience!

By Dr. Alberto Lunetta, NAS Sigonella Public Affairs

At the end of a typical Saturday night in a Catania pizzeria, there is always someone in almost any group of friends who will say, “andiamo al chiosco!” (“Let’s go to the kiosk!”). A chiosco or “ciospo,” as it is called in Catanese dialect, means a kiosk selling beverages, refreshments, artisanal gelato, and granite, as well as sweet and salty snacks.

Kiosks are one of the most beloved hangout places. Catanesi and Sicilians stop there at different times of the day and night to chat, meet people, take a work break, socialize, and quench their thirst during the hot summer. “Ci vediamo al chiosco!” (“See you at the kiosk!”) is a typical saying when someone wants to find a pleasant meeting point for chatting with friends and even doing some good business talk.

Kiosks, which should not be confused with the few remaining newspaper stands called “edicole,” are scattered almost everywhere in Catania, from the historic heart of the city to the suburbs. You can find them in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, Piazza Umberto, Piazza Trento, Piazza Iolanda, Piazza Roma and Piazza Borgo.

According to historic sources, kiosks originated from street vendors selling beverages at the end of the 19th century in the outskirts of the city during national exhibitions and fairs. Over time, street vendors’ wooden stalls became fixed square or hexagonal structures, most of them built in “Stile Liberty” art style. They sprouted up almost everywhere in the city, on the side of the roads and in many squares. The ones located in historic centers were ordered to move to quieter areas of the city to avoid crowds and traffic jams.

In Naples, similar stalls selling lemon and orange juices, called “acquafrescai,” could be found in the city’s markets. Chioschi are also similar to the street vendors selling “agua fresca” artisanal soft drinks in Mexico.

“When I was a young boy, after finishing school, I used to come to my grandfather’s kiosk to cut lemons, help him get supplies from supermarkets, and carry the syrups,” said Marco Giammona, who works at the Piazza Iolanda family-owned kiosk. The Giammona family, which also owns the kiosk of Piazza Umberto, is one of the oldest kiosk owners in the city.

Giammona explained that his grandfather Antonino obtained the kiosk’s license in 1946 and started this business with his savings. The first popular drink that he created was “acqua e zammù” (water and anise) and the legendary “seltz al limone” (sparkling water) which was initially prepared with the addition of a pinch of baking soda. Later, according to tradition, some Messina soccer club players suggested adding salt instead of baking soda, and Antonino reportedly liked the taste. He changed the recipe of this legendary inexpensive drink, costing about one euro, which was eventually named “seltz limone e sale” and the perfect way to quench thirst during the summer.

Another popular drink was the “completo,” which was prepared by mixing lemon, anise and “orzata,” a milk-like drink made with benzoin root, vanilla and/or orange blossom essence.

Antonino used to make his non-alcoholic beverages by using natural sparkling water from the Acquarossa District in Belpasso, but later he started to prepare his popular drinks with seltzer water from soda fountain machines he got from a factory where he used to work before it was shut down at the end of War World II.

Seltzer water is also essential for making drinks mixed with delicious fruit syrups, another specialty of Catania kiosks. The Giammona family still produces them today from essences made from herbs and fruits by adding sugar, coloring and citric acid. “The syrup manufacturing process, which is supervised by my uncle Giuseppe, is secret,” Marco said.

There are several fruit-based syrup flavors, but the most common are mandarin (including green mandarin, or “mandarino verde”), orange, lemon, tamarind, chinotto (made from a sour citrus growing on the slopes of Mount Etna), and “sciampagnino” (citron juice with soda) which are all served with a squeezed lemon. The “misto frutta,” a fresh fruit salad made with syrup-preserved fruit, is also very popular among patrons.

Kiosks also offer the “sugar bomb” called “Frappè alla Nutella,” a creamy and thick drink prepared by blending Nutella spread, iced-milk, and Tomarchio cupcakes.

Although some drinks are available all year round, many drinks depend on the season. “In the summer, we sell seltz lemon and salt, syrups drinks, and cold beers, while in the winter people prefer to order smoothies rather than syrups,” noted Marco.

The age of the customers also varies during the weekdays and time of the day. “Older people come on Friday nights and youngsters on Saturday nights. In the summer, some customers bring their older parents to drink the refreshing seltz lemon and salt,” added Marco.

Kiosks are open all day until 2:00 a.m. or even 3:00 a.m., especially on weekends.

When asked to send a message to the American community in Sicily, Marco showed his fondness for the United States: “Come to Catania to try our scrumptious specialties and our delicious syrup drinks that you will never find anywhere else in the world. God bless America!”

Marco Giammona, owner of one of the oldest family-run kiosks in Catania, makes seltz limone e sale, an iconic handmade refreshing beverage that is traditionally served to quench thirst during the hot never-ending Sicilian summer. (Photo by Alberto Lunetta)