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Discover Sicily’s History at Donnafugata Castle
By Dr. Alberto Lunetta, NAS Sigonella Public Affairs
Driving through the hills outside Ragusa, you can picture what Sicilian poet Giovanni Virgadavola wrote about the Donnafugata Castle, one of the most imposing fortresses in Eastern Sicily: “Si viri ri luntanu ‘stu castieddu comu ‘u suli ca spunta a matina,” which translates to, “You can see this castle in the distance just as you see the sun rising in the morning.” Immersed in a carob forest that is part of an 85,000 square meters park, the castle overlooks a breathtaking landscape crossed by an amazing network of “muri a siccu,” low dry-stone walls dividing the local farmers’ properties.
The castle was built in the 11th century as a blockhouse featuring a fortified watchtower. The name of the castle derives from the Arabic words Aian as iafaiat which mean “spring of health.” Historians believe that this name refers to a spring, located in the neighborhoods of the castle, from which wholesome water still spouts today.
Over the centuries, the name of the castle was corrupted into Donnafugata which in English translates to “woman who escaped.” According to tradition, this name is linked to a legend that tells of the daring flight of Queen Bianca of Navarra from the castle in 1412. Bianca was appointed as the regent Queen of Sicily after the death of her husband King Martino I in 1410. According to the tale, Count Bernardo Cabrera, an old powerful and ambitious noble from Ragusa asked Bianca to marry him to not only give him a young wife but would also make him the king of Sicily. To his dismay, Bianca refused the proposal. The angered Cabrera, who had a private army, had her arrested and locked up inside the Donnafugata Castle. Allegedly, Bianca managed to escape and reached Palermo, where she ordered the conviction of the impudent count.
The castle remained an anonymous stronghold for centuries until 1648 when Baron Vincenzo Arezzo bought it and transformed it into a “casina” (mansion) to spend summer holidays and hunting trips.
In the 19th century, eclectic Baron Corrado Arezzo inherited the mansion and turned it into a magnificent castle featuring 144 rooms over an area of 2,500 square meters. Arezzo, born in 1824 in Ragusa, was a cultured man who loved art, music and theatre and was also a witty politician. He designed his castle to be an eclectic masterpiece, which is why the castello (castle) features different art styles which combine traditional elements with modern features.
Even though the legend of the fleeing Queen Bianca is a historic fake, a true elopement from the castle did take place in the 19th century when French nobleman Gaetano Combes de Lestrade fell in love with Clementina, Baron Corrado’s granddaughter, and ran away with her. Baron Corrado’s guards chased them and brought them back to the castle to arrange a “reparatory” marriage. Despite frequent traveling across Europe, the couple lived in the castle for many years. Their grandson, Count Gaetano di Testasecca, was the last private owner of Donnafugata before selling it to the city of Ragusa in 1982 which turned the castle into a museum.
Today, the castle’s 19th century splendor remains on display due to the recent restoration carried out to preserve the original materials. The Sicilian Region spearheaded the castle renovation project which cost about eight million Euro and lasted six years. About 20 rooms are now open to the public for visits.
After you enter the castle, the tour begins with a staircase made of black pitchstone that is typical of the Ragusa area. The tour continues through several richly decorated and furnished rooms such as the Women Hall, the Library, the Smokers Hall, Music Hall, the Pool Hall, and the Queen’s bedroom where, according to legend, Bianca lived during her imprisonment. The red-velvet Bishop Hall (where the local bishop used to spend his vacations) and the medieval-styled Coat of Arms Hall, including armors, are also worth seeing. The castle also contains a small picture gallery.
The real highlight of the fortress is the sumptuous Mirror Hall where aristocratic society would gather to enjoy performances and concerts. Today you will see it features an elegant grand piano and richly decorated mirrors. The museum inside the castle features an extensive collection of period clothes.
Outside, the castle showcases a remarkable loggia in Venetian-Gothic style. As you leave the castle, you will find a park that is worth the walk even though it has not yet been renovated. It contains a stone maze, an artificial grotto and a small neoclassic building that one served as a coffee and teahouse.
While you tour the castle, you may run into a number of fans of the internationally popular “Inspector Montalbano” television series, based on the detective novels of Sicilian author Andrea Camilleri, who died last year at the age of 93. The Donnafugata Castle is one of the filming locations of the popular Montalbano series, which has been translated into 32 languages with more than 30 million copies sold across the globe. Many of these novels are available in English translation at the MWR Sigonella library.
The Castle is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.m. 7 p.m. The cost of a ticket is six euros. Admission is free for children under six years old, disabled people with their caregivers, tourist guides, tour operators and scholars. There is a reduced fee of three euros fees for adults 65 and over people and for students between 18 and 26 years.
For more information send a mail message to castello. donnafugata@comune.ragusa.gov.it or call 093-267-6500.