Sicilians to Celebrate the "Day of the Dead"

No, this is not a horror movie and it is not even the Italian version of Halloween.

November 2 is a celebration honoring departed ancestors and relatives. It is a special day in Italy, a holiday marking the celebration of dead souls. It is called “Giorno dei Morti’ (Day of the Dead or All Souls’ Day; Sicilians call it Jornu di li morti).

The departed continue to “live” and return annually to visit their loved ones. To children, it feels like Christmas time since they get a gift on the morning of November 2.

I still vividly remember, when I was a kid, the excitement that drove me to search every corner of the house looking for the presents that my dead grandfather had left for me over the night. I knew his spirit was still around and I was sure that he had magically sneaked into my house the night before to bring me my favorite toys and sweets.

I also recall my disappointment when I realized, as I grew older, that the “regali” (gifts) were actually brought by my parents. I know that, to some, the idea of the spirits of the dead paying a “holiday visit” to people’s homes might sound spooky and macabre but it is all a matter of perspective. Usually, the concept of afterlife raises rational fears and concerns, conjuring up images of dead people, ghosts, witches or even the devil. The “Giorno dei Morti” is indeed a special day. The belief underlying this celebration is that the spirits of the dead return to earth on this day to be with their families and loved ones to eat, drink and be merry and relive the good memories.

Italian novelist and playwright Giovanni Verga vividly describes this tradition in one of his famous novels, “On the ‘Day of the Dead,’ walking on tiptoes, mothers put toys and sweets in the tiny shoes of their children while they are dreaming of long lines of white ghosts carrying glittering presents. Smiling young girls try on, in front of the mirror, the earrings or the brooch they were given by their fiancées.”

Historic chronicles also confirm this tradition. Giacinto Farina, a priest of the last century, wrote that, in the past, Sicilian children used to leave their shoes on the windowsills in the hope that their dead relatives would place gifts for them.

Superstitions say that dead relatives “turn themselves into ants” so they can enter easily into the homes to fill the baskets and the socks prepared by the kids with gifts. Sicilian cultural anthropologist Giuseppe Pitrè tells more details about this tradition, “On the night between November 1 and 2, the departed leave their scary dwelling and go to elegant stores in town to steal toys, new clothes and sweets. It is an ‘innocent stealing’ that is aimed at donating gifts to children that have been behaving during the year.”

The Day of Dead is actually an ancient festivity and has pagan origins that are rooted in the changing cycle of natural renewal. The return of the departed souls marked the beginning of the new agriculture cycle that was intended to celebrate the continuity of life. By giving presents to their children on behalf of the ancestors, parents keep the “affective bond” between the departed and the living alive. Doing so, children won’t be looking at their deceased relatives as a scaring entity of the afterlife but as good souls that look after them from heaven.

This holiday is similar to the El Dia de los Muertos, a traditional Spanish and Mexican celebration and this is due to the fact that Sicily was under the Spanish rule for about 200 years. Catholic families gather to make a pilgrimage to the cemeteries and spiritually reunite with their beloved ones.

In Catholic tradition, the “Giorno dei Morti,” is a day on which believers gather with their family members to make a pilgrimage to the cemeteries where their relatives lie waiting for the Day of Resurrection. According to some historians, early Christians created this religious celebration that blended elements from the Holy Scriptures with pagan traditions.

Over the past few years, the Day of Dead has been often opposed to Halloween, raising concern among some groups of Catholics who fear that the latter might overshadow this ancient religious celebration. Halloween parties are annually organized across the country in discos and clubs.

Traditional Sweets

In Sicily, as it happens for every holiday and festival, special cakes made into symbolic shapes are prepared for the Day of Dead. The traditional “cosi ruci” (sweets) include “Frutta Martorana” (Martorana fruits), a confection of almond paste made into the shape of different fruits, “N’zuddi” (almond cookies), cocoa-based cookies (“Rame di Napoli,” “Totò” and “Bersaglieri”), “Ossa di morti,” (bones of the dead) crunchy cookies that were once shaped as skulls, phalanges (finger bones). They’re made by white dough that contrasts with the dark base where the sugar darkened close to the pan during baking and “Pupi ri zuccaru” or puppets of boiled sugar.

Catania Day of the Dead Fair

Many customs are associated with All Souls Day’s celebration. It is also traditional to set up a “Fiera dei Morti” (All Souls Day’s Fair). This year the fiera should be set up in the San Giuseppe La Rena former fruit and vegetables market (Ex Mercato Ortofrutticolo) near the Catania airport. The fair, which is usually open from 9 a.m. until midnight, will run from October 28th through November 3rd features 200 booths selling a variety of items such as rugs, furniture, shoes, clothing, arts and crafts, antiquities, food and more. Traffic will be restricted in the fair area. Parking spaces will be set up in the adjoining streets and will be limited. Car pooling and parking far from the festival area is strongly recommended.

If you have a sweet tooth, the Sicilian Day of the Dead celebration honoring the ones who passed away, will be your favorite time! Rame di Napoli cookies are among the most popular treats. You will find them in any pasticcerie (pastry shops) and panifici (bakeries) during this time of the year. (Photo by Alberto Lunetta)