MADISON BILDAHL BY AARON BERNSTEIN NO.12 FALL/WINTER 2014 - US$17.99 CAN$16.95 INTERNATIONAL 7.50
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47 Editor’s letter 60 Contributors 72 Self Reflections A series of intimate interviews with a variety of artists aiming to reveal what life is like through their eyes.
120 White Noise Monochromatic styling that makes a statement.
140 Nancy Donahue A candid conversation about life as an 80’s cover star, the industry’s change over time, and what she’s up to these days. An outtake from this issues “Hunger Games” beginning on page . Model Madison Bildahl wears jumpsuit by Paulo Gomez de Orozco, necklace by Lanvin.
144 Ripe Intricately designed handbags by up-andcomer Spencer Malinski shot with summer’s essential food group.
174 Split Personalities Where the trend began, how it’s taking over the fashion industry, and why it works.
150 From the Inside Out A look at the trend of intimates as outerwear.
180 Havana Heat Taking you out of the office and into the tropics.
156 Hunger Games A serious case of 60’s nostalgia.
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Editor in Chief NATALIA COLICHON Publisher SARA DONAHUE Creative Direction NATALIA COLICHON Senior Editor KATE MOORE Fashion Director KALEIGH RYAN Contributing Fashion Director at Large KALEIGH RYAN Senior Fashion Editor JASMINE BRYAN Senior Fashion Assistant KATE MOORE Fashion Assistant SARA DONAHUE Publishing Executive COURTNEY GILL Assistant to the Fashion Director KALEIGH RYAN Designers SARA DONAHUE, KALEIGH RYAN, KATE MOORE Production Editor KALEIGH RYAN Editor at Large LULU KENNEDY Entertainment Editor GREG KRELENSTEIN AT STARWORKS Senior Contributing Editor PAUL FLYNN Consulting JO-ANN FURNISS Online Editor PHOEBE ARNOLD PR MANDI LENNARD Italian Agent: FABIO MONTOBBIO (FABIO@ROCKMEDIA.IT) Associate Publisher: US: SHANNON TOLAR TCHKOTOUA US Advertisement Director: KERYN HOWARTH Advertisement Director (France): HELENA KAWALEC Advertisement Manager (France): NATALIE WALTHER Press Inquiries: MANDI’S BASEMENT 42 REDCHURCH ST, LONDON E2 7DP +44(0)20 7729 2770; LOVE@MANDISBASEMENT.COM Marketing Director: JEAN FAULKNER Deputy Marketing and Research Director: GARY READ Associate Director, Digital Marketing: SUSIE BROWN CondéNast International Director of Communications: NICKY EATON Senior Publicity Manager: HARRIET ROBERTSON Circulation Director: RICHARD KINGERLEE Newstrade Circulation Manager: ELLIOT SPAULDING Subscriptions Director: PATRICK FOILLERET Production Director: SARAH JENSON Production Manager: JOANNE PACKHAM Commercial Production Manager: XENIA ANTONI Production Controllers: SAM DEARDEN, FRANCES SEAL Senior Commercial Production Controller: LOUISE LAWSON Commercial and Paper Production Controller: MARTIN MACMILLAN Syndication Enquiries: SYNDICATION@CONDENAST.CO.UK Director of Editorial Administration & Rights: HARRIET WILSON Editorial Business & Rights Executive: GEORGIE FLETCHER International Permissions Manager: ELEANOR SHARMAN Finance Director: PAM RAYNOR Finance Control Director: PENNY SCOTT-BAYFIELD HR/Personnel Director: HAZEL McINTYRE Deputy Managing Director: ALBERT READ NICHOLAS COLERIDGE: Managing Director, Condé Nast Britain President, Condé Nast International JONATHAN NEWHOUSE: Chairman and Chief Executive, Condé Nast International Tavistock Road, West Draytom, Middlesex, UB7 7QE (01895 433600; fax 01895 433605). To subscribe, call 0844 848 5202 (Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm) or visit magazineboutique.co.uk. Colour origination by Tag Publishing. Printed in the UK by Wyndeham Poche. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All prices are correct at time of going to press but are subject to change. Manuscripts, drawings and other materials submitted must be accompanied by a stamped addressed envelope. However, LOVE cannot be responsible for unsolicited material. The paper used for this publication is recyclable and made from renewable fibrous raw materials, it has been produced using wood sourced from sustainably managed forests and elemental or total chlorine-free bleached pulp. The producing mills have third-party management systems in place, applying standards such as ISO 9001 and ISO 14001. This magazine can be recycled either through your kerbside collection or at a local recycling point. Log onto recyclenow.com and enter your postcode to find you nearest sites. Copyright 2014 THE CONDE NAST PUBLICATIONS LTD, Vogue House, Hanover Square, London WIS IJU. Registered in London No. 226900
THANKS TO: Aaron Bernstein, Cecy Colichon, Courtney Gill, Cristina Colichon, Gwen O’Neil, John Reese, Karen Gill, Katherine Taylor, Kathy Skerritt, Kate Moore, Kaleigh Ryan, Nancy Donahue, Paulo Gomez de Orozco, Spencer Malinski, Shida Cao, Weston Doty, Richard Sullivan, Dean Sidaway, Dylan Shaw, Simon Cooper LOVE is published biannually by The Conde Nast publications Ltd, Vogue House, Hanover Square, London WIS IJU (020 7499 9080; fax 020 7493 1345). LOVE is distributed by Conde Nast & National Magazine Distributors Ltd (Comag)
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No one wants to be boring. Everyone needs a little punch in their life… Why can’t everything have this much punch? With this Special Edition Summer issue of LOVE, I wanted to create something that jumped off the pages. One of its own kind: the bold issue, the power issue. It needed to read as audacious as the young freedom of summer. I wanted the limit to be pushed; for the concept of creativity to be challenged. For this to happen, I needed to work with people I knew would push me out of my comfort zone. Because everyone needs that sometimes...Especially in the heat of summer. Lately I have been inspired by all different realms of the art world, and not only the story behind the pieces created, but the artists themselves. How does their past, present, and future effect their work, from concept development to the final product. After much thought and planning an
eclectic group of talented individuals was finally brought together for our ‘Self Reflections’ series. Each brings a unique perspective to the magazine. What does the world look like in their eyes? From a professional baseball player to a cancer survivor, their artwork is as varied as the artists themselves making for an inspiring read, to say the least. This issue’s ‘White Noise’ was a concept created over a lunch date with photographer Aaron Bernstein. A longtime fan of Bernstein’s work and creativity, I was thrilled at the opportunity to collaborate with such a talented individual. The idea of monochromic styling in fashion always stands as a timeless statement, bold even, if done the right way. The combination of textures and silhouettes created makes for such strong imagery. Then we talk to one of the most famous faces of the 80’s super model
craze. Nancy Donahue is known as one of the first ‘supermodels,’ whose past included working alongside some of the most prominent names of the industry. Her words evoke a constant energy contributing a strong sense of boldness and power to the magazine. She never takes much of a break, constantly on to new projects with her entrepreneurial spirit. Finally, for this special edition issue of LOVE, we’ve created six covers, show found on page 52. They are printed in a large format, and only available for a limited run. They contain simply editorial artwork, while each edition is made up of content that is different and exclusive. My message to you this season would be to find your inner power; dont’s be afraid to express yourself; go out and be bold in all that you do. natalia colichon Editor in Chief
Maiya - Simone by Aaron Bernstein. See page 180. 47
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Clockwise from top left: Shot from ‘Ripe’ still life photographed by Weston Doty; Shote from ‘White Noise’ photographed by Aaron Bernstein; Shot from ‘Hunger Games’ photographed by Aaron Bernstein; Shot from ‘Havana Heat’ photographed by Aaron Bernstein; Original artwork by Richard Sullivan, featured as a part of this issue’s ‘Self Reflections’; Shot from ‘Ripe’ still life photographed by Weston Doty LOVE Special Editions available exclusively from Marc Jacobs and Bookmarc stores from 17 August 2014
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We put a question to the creatives that contributed to this issue: ‘If you could be any ice cream flavour which would it be and why?’
aaron bernstein photographer of ‘White Noise’ and ‘Hunger Games’ (p 156).
weston doty photographer of ‘Ripe’ (p 144).
spencer malinski hand-bag designer for ‘Ripe” (p 144).
‘Pistachio -- it’s exciting, different, fresh, and quirky, yet not too out there and has a great cult following.’
‘Neopolitan. It’s colorful and graphic.’
‘Pistachio, but honestly... I’m not trying to be eaten.’
lady katherine taylor hair and make-up artist for ‘Hunger Games’ (p 156).
gwen o’niel photographer of ‘From the Inside Out’ (p150).
madison bildahl model in ‘Hunger Games’ shoot (p 156).
‘I would be sweet cream; it mixes well with anything from berries to chocolate.’
‘Coffee chocolate chip. Caffeine and chocolate are my favorite things and to have those combined...I’d be the best tasting ice cream ever.’
‘I would be cookies and cream. Not only is it my personal favorite but I think cookies and cream is a pretty awesome combination, two delectable flavors merged together to create the ultimate sugary experience.’
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maiya-simone plather model in ‘Havana Heat’ shoot (p 180).
megan mccullough designed garments for ‘White Noise’ shoot (p 120).
niyna spellman moden in ‘Havana Heat’ shoot (p 180).
‘I’d probably be Cotton Candy. Because I’m colorful, sweet, and everyone loves me!’
‘None- I don’t eat that crap.’ (megan suffers from lactose issues)
‘Neopolitan ice cream so I’d be something for everyone!’
kianna drayton model in ‘White Noise’ shoot (p 120).
paulo gomez de orozco designed garments for ‘Hunger Games’ shoot (p 156).
aluna yacoe model in ‘From the Inside Out’ shoot (p 150).
‘Birthday Cake, simply because everyone wants that cake,cake,cake,cake,cake,cake.’
‘If I were an ice cream flavor I would be would be japanese Green tea. The flavour is subtlele and you have to really taste it to appreciate it. The flavor can almost be muted but once that you taste it, its delicious’
‘Definitely coffee-chocolate chip. I absolutely love chocolate and coffee ice cream it’s just amazing.’
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a series of intimate artist interviews with accompanying self-portraits
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Writer Natalia Colichon
the fibers artist whos studio brings her sincere happiness
So what kind of art do you do? I am an artist with that specializes in Fibers and I also obtained my BFA in Fibers. How do you work? My media of work is in fibers. I weave and do sculptures with it. What’s your background? I am originally from Lima, Peru which is a place where I am constantly surrounded by art and curious about it. That curiosity pushed me to begin finding ways to express all the inspiration I saw. What else was an influence on you growing up? My influences were mainly the surroundings of my country, my ancestral heritage, my family, and my rich culture. When did you start thinking about making art for a living? When I was forced to make a carrer decision. It came to me pretty naturally seeing as though it was something I loved. What brings you sincere happiness? Being in my studio, and working without time constraints.
What is behind the art that you make? The story behind my art is a fusion of my past and my present. I use weaving as an extension of my ideas and myself in a contemporary sense. How do you find motivation to begin a piece? Art “flows” through my veins. Inspiration and motivation are always prevalent. One just must be living life with their eyes open to see inspiration. Where did you study and obtain your fibers degree? Massachusetts College of Art in Boston. Does your work have any recurring themes? That depends on if I have an obsession or fixation at the moment. For example that could be the concept of time, space, light, sensations, or passion. What art do you most identify with? Sculpture, weaving spaces, and installation art of all sorts. What work do you most enjoy doing? Any form of art that involves line...so I guess all sorts of art. Who are your favorite artists, if you have any? Christo, Gego, Jesus Soto, Carlos Cruz Dies, Calder, and Eva Hesse.
What are your initial inspirations before beginning a piece? Looking closely at the simple things that surround me and objects or sensation that draw my interest. At times it has been the jungle, science, anatomy, structures, and landscapes. Why art? Why not? Some of us come equipped with certain gifts; we may as well make the best of them. Art is the way to express myself and my current state of mind. What advice would you give to young artists for their future? Always remember to be honest with yourself and never stop believing in your abilities. We are all capable of everything we wish to achieve.
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Writer Natalia Colichon
the peruvian weaver who seaks spiritual enlightenment
Who are you and what do you do? I am an artist of the visual arts. What’s your background? I was born in Lima, Peru and left to make my way to New York City as I completed my education in the arts. Does art run in your family? I didn’t notice it initially, but I see now in the generation following me with my nieces. What is the story behind your work? Over the years, I have experienced many life-changing moments. A major shift in the development of my art work occurred about twenty-three years ago when I began to develop a very cubistic, geometirc, and multidimensional sense of imagery. It was at that point that I also began to devote my work to a more personal expression of sub-conscious ideas through. Crystallization of this change in artistic and personal focus was further catalyzed in 1994, when I made a trip to the southern pacific coast of my native Peru. It was this region that I felt a strong metaphysical connection to, and it is also where the ancient preInca cultures of Paracas and Nazca had existed (700 BC – 700 AD). Ultimately, the body of work I developed between 2000 and 2012 appears to be the fruit of a harmonious blend of seemingly disparate influences, consisting of
120 pieces that include drawings, oil paintings and embroidery work. Who or what is your biggest inspiration? Human beings have a common bond being united by a quest to explore and make sense out of universal experiences. My fascination with the human psyche, spirit, and personal transformation is always such a big inspiration. The quest that transects each and every one of us, giving us hope for the possibility of grounding universal human values in common forms of inner experience is something I always come back to for inspiration. Where did you attend university? The National School of Fine Arts in Lima Peru. It is there that I recieved a degree equivalent to a Master’s Degree in Fine Arts. I spent 6 years there before moving to the US where I then spent 3 years studying printmaking and lithography at the Pratt Graphics Center in New York City. Weaving is a big part of your work. Tell me about that. I didn’t get into embroidery work until the last segment of a large body of work. That body of work consisted of 120 pieces that I produced between the years 2000 and 2010. I called this series “Naissance, A Spiritual Awakening.” The embroidery pieces of the “Codex,”
series were created by a needlepoint technique. I used multicolored cotton threads over textured canvas to simulate archeological findings and excavations. The idea behind this concept is to present these woks as ancient textile archeological findings. They are different from the archeological findings in the sense that the imagery depicts an advanced form of technology, even when compared to today’s standards. By using thread, I conveyed the parallels and correlations between the energy released by the electromagnetic technology while also depicting the elaborate and complex multicolored stitches in ancient textiles. What emotions are you typically trying to convey through your work? My objective and hope is that through my work I can provide insight to my journey of discovering myself. I also want to encourage those who are looking to discover their inner subjective, and outer objectives. Explain what you do in 100 words? The development of my latest body of work can be described as a progressive sequence. It is made up of groups of paintings and drawings that act similarly to pieces of a puzzle. When viewed as one body of art, these various paintings and drawings reveal a single concept. The nature of this 79
work has been quite demanding for me. The images came in groups of about 10 to 20 pieces each; consisting of oils and drawings. These sequential groups provided some explanation of each previous group. As I studied these images, I tried to understand the meaning of this information. After much intense devotion, I realized that I had been personally experiencing a conscious transformation and spiritual enlightment. What themes do you tend to pursue? My work is a vehicle for discovery. The two dimensional imagery I create appears to describe different aspects of a digital or electro-magnetic technology. These works can be related to things present in other dimensions as well as something that humanity
has yet to discover. Describe a real-life situation that inspire you? Life in itself. How we all, as humans, try to make sense of why we are here and what our purpose is. Name three artists you’d like to be compared to Artists are unique. I admire many for different reasons...it is not realistic to compare. What’s the best piece of advice you’ve been given? Treat others as you would like to be treated. Professionally, what’s your goal? There is considerable evidence
emerging from recent studies in consciousness, mind-body research, quantum physics and studies on the extraordinary capacities of the human psych that suggest new models for a better understanding of humanity and our place in a multidimensional and a psycho-energetic universe. Through our spiritual and psychic intuition and perceptions of a “higher consciousness”, we can find a way to realize the potential unity of humanity on earth and aspire to integrate new sciences with spirituality. I could further contribute to this spiritual advancement by participating and sharing my spiritual experience through my artwork.
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Writer Kate Moore
the prolific procrastinating fashion designer who imagined life elsewhere Tell us about where you grew up and what made you come to the United States? I grew up In a small town in the West Midlands, UK. I moved to London to train in Fashion and lived there for around 12 years before I moved to the US to work at SCAD and then last year moved to New York to take a position at the Pratt Institute. What were you like as a kid? Quiet, I got on well with most people, as cliché as it is to say, I was a dreamer and always imagined my life elsewhere (mainly London – which seemed so exciting to me). Where do you find inspiration? Everywhere. I’m such a romantic, so any old bits of junk evoke stories and ideas of the memories they would have recreated for previous owners excite me. Do you have any siblings? I do, 2 younger brothers, the middle one being born when I was 14, so they are closer in age, but we all get on well. Tell us a little about your clown collection.. I can’t remember exactly where it came about, I was thinking about ideas of disguise and the nostalgia of childhood, I came across a series of photographs from Barnum and Bailey and I recalled some of Cindy Shermans clown series (an artist who’s work I love anyway) and It all sort of evolves over time as you develop ideas and the collection. Through discussing my ideas with a friend I was introduced to the amazing Jonnyboy the Clown and he became the identity of the collection – the muse. With the main image of Jonnyboy used throughout the collection, I wanted something that evoked ‘agony and/or ectasy’. None of which would have been documented so beautifully without Dylan Shaw. Who do you imagine wearing your designs? Are they meant to be a bit sexual? I don’t have a specific person in mind, it is more an evolution of what I’m thinking that extends into design. My work became more obviously sexual I think with ‘Maidenhair’ (the previous collection and it’s links to S&M), I think ‘American Cream’ continued with that in terms of a blatant sexuality. What is your go to karaoke song? I never really had one, but Anita Shave had me singing a duet of her go to Karaoke song ‘Reba McEntire, the night the lights went out in Georgia’ as my leaving song. Your work has been described by your friend Anthony Miller as “Bits and Bobs”...would you like to comment upon that? Anthony is clean, American design (and wonderful for it), I am a fan of Henrik Vibskov, Bernard Willhelm etc. So I do enjoy print on print, texture addition and the idea of ‘add more’…, though I do also really appreciate minimal. I take it as a compliment! What would we find in your fridge? Currently, lots of vegetables, I purchased a juicer recently, but don’t use it as much as I should… also, coffee and chocolate. What is your favorite drink?...and how many of those drinks do you like to enjoy? Wine with friends (red in the winter and white in the summer), depends on the day and the friends of how many might be consumed… Can you tell us a little bit about that panda costume..? Halloween 2012, I borrowed the Panda Costume from a friend, I like the make up (thanks to Lara Wolf) as he looks a little evil, but still cute. How would you describe yourself in one sentence? A prolific procrastinator 85
Do you have any strange habits? I don’t think so Where do you see yourself in 10 years? I would like to still be in the US, teaching fashion, but also having established a reputation here for editorial commissions and collaborations, to keep enjoying what I do. Do you like your water still or sparkling? Still What is your favorite TV show? I don’t watch a lot of TV, but I love Rupauls Drag Race Who is your least favorite celebrity and why? I think there are too many to mention as least favorite. I don’t like the celebrity culture the media has created. Too many people seem to want to be famous just for fame rather than being known for actually being good at something. Do you have a life motto? I don’t, maybe I should get one.
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Writer Kate Moore
the “gringo” with paint on his hands
I know that you are quite the worldly person, tell us about where you grew up.. Well, I was born in South Carolina and lived there as a kid, but I then moved to Buenos Aires, Argentina and lived there for many years. It was the biggest and best change I’ve ever experienced. I think change is truly a necessary part of life, cant get too comfortable. Do you think that it influenced your art? Absolutely. I believe the people and the culture had a lot to do with it. I was exposed to some incredible artists who in many ways had a big influence on me. A lot murals throughout Buenos Aires are hard to ignore, from political messages to pure expression, I admired much of the work I had seen. Where do you look for inspiration? I seem to find inspiration in a lot of the painters in the early 20th century; in particular the cubists had a profound impact on what I enjoying seeing in artwork. Pablo Picasso is always a friend to my work, he has given me so much to look for in art. Contemporary artists such as Keith Haring, Jean Michel Basquiat, as well as REMED. In one sentence (or 5 words) how would you describe yourself? A gringo with paint on his hands.
Do you come from an artistic family? Not really, although my family has always enjoyed modern art and I was definitely exposed to quite a lot as a kid. Tell us about what kind of paintings you are working on now. For the past month or so I’ve been working on a series of large scale windows. I’ve found that for some time I seem to lose myself in geometry and abstraction and that I need to ground myself and have some sense of order. The window seems to add a sense of familiarity to the work, I feel it helps organize my work by looking through the window. I also find its just a starting point, in that to start at the window begs the viewer to look out of the window, and from there you find yourself outside the window and into something else entirely. I find it is more of an exploration than simply just a window. Also I’m always working in the print shop. What is the last gift you gave someone? A peppermint patty to my girlfriend. If we came over for dinner, what would you prepare for us? Bottle of wine and steaks on the grill, side of sweet potatoes. Who are your top two favorite artists and why?
Pablo Picasso, simply because he is the answer to all of my questions, as he once said “Cezanne is the father of us all”, I say Picasso is the father of us all. Carlos Paez Vilaro, his mural work and paintings are everywhere Argentina and Uruguay. His presence inspired me so much. I’d take the train to school everyday and see his massive mural of Buenos Aires and It just makes me happy every time. He passed away a few months ago and its hard to see such a brilliant artist leave us. Do you have a favorite musician or song? Zeppelin – Your Time is Gonna Come We know that you work at Gallery Espresso... what is your funniest “at work” experience? We do not laugh at Gallery Espresso. If a movie was created about your life, who would you want to play your role? Heath Ledger, people say he looks like me. Do you have a life motto? “Shaktaya” Where do you see yourself in 10 years? The Moon or Mars.
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Writer Kate Moore
the professional baseball player who chose a path in art Where were you born? I was born in Louiville, KY... easy question. Tell us a brief history of yourself.. I went to SCAD, Savannah College of Art and Design, because they had a baseball team and an art program that I was also interested in..so perfect fit. They locked me in as a junior in high school with a scholarship. In my third year of college I started to get pretty good so I was drafted by the Atlanta Braves. I was with the Braves for 5 years. I thought baseball was going to be my life. What position were you? Left handed pitcher Are the stereotypes about pitchers true? I don’t know, what are they? Did you look them up? ... Are they sexual or what? I think the stereotypes about left handed pitchers being goofy are true, we’re pretty out there. Tell us about the first moment when you realized that you wanted to end baseball to pursue art? Every day I used to be excited to wake up and improve at baseball. As soon as I started to lose my love for baseball and began waking up and wanting to improve my art I knew it was time to follow that path instead. One day I was in my host family’s room and I picked up watercolors for the first time in 5 years since college. I started testing out a process which I still use today, where I layer the gray-scale under painting and then begin adding color. I realized, wow, I could really do this. What are your favorite subjects to paint? I like painting people. I also like painting landscapes because I have a looser style with my landscapes which is freeing. My portraits are very realistic and tight. What song best describes you? Lateralist by Tool If someone could sum you up in 5 adjectives what would they say? What’s an adjective? Haha just kidding....Care free and passionate. Loyal- I’d want my teammates and friends to know that I would do anything for them. Also driven and talented.. but humble. If you were a kitchen appliance which one would you be? I’d be a blender. I love smoothies. Who is your role model? I have a lot of role models. I would say my coaches. As I went up each level in baseball, I gravitated towards the coaches. I wanted to get in their head and always find ways to improve. Mountains or beach? Mountains #1 man crush? Daniel Day Lewis Do you have a life motto? Work to your fullest potential each day and give your heart and soul to the day.. especially when you want to accomplish something. Do the best you can at each moment. What is the best decision you’ve ever made? Going to SCAD was probably my best decision. What is the first thing you notice about other people? Their eyes What is the last thing you took a picture of? I took photos at a baseball game that I was at today so that I could paint the players later. If you could bankrupt one person or company who would it be? My first thought would be Walmart but.. Hmm.. I don’t think I would want to bankrupt anyone because I wouldn’t want anyone to want to bankrupt me. If you were famous would you want a statue or a building made/named after you? A building.. unless I was really really famous like a president or Hank Aaron. What’s the best piece of advice anyone has ever given you? Don’t give up on what you want. If we came over for dinner what would you make us? If I was capable of cooking anything, it would be pizza with everything on it. Five different types of meats, five different types of veggies, homemade... with some olive oil on top. Did you just fart? Yeah.... is that an interview question? Haha.
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Writer Jasmine Bryan
the off the wall abstract artist who sucks at skateboarding How’s life in Charleston, South Carolina? Great, there is a lot of art and culture here that helps to keep me inspired and motivated. Charleston is perfect for an artist. How did your love for art come about? I graduated from the Art Institute of Atlanta with a bachelors in graphic design. After I graduated I didn’t enjoy most freelance projects. Finding a job was hard because I didn’t know what I wanted to do or who I wanted to work for. This was when I actually started doodling again. After moving to Charleston in September of last year, I got more into painting. What were you like as a kid? Off the wall. Hyper. Awesome. You have some amazing work, I take it you love skateboarding also? I suck at skateboarding. All I can do on a board is draw on it. What’s your thought process when creating a piece? To be unpredictable. I try not to think much going into a piece. I’ll usually end up covering up what I started with and doing something else. You can probably see this in some of my paintings with the different layers for each piece. Within your art you play with different mediums, any favorites? I’m most comfortable with acrylic paint but I like using spray paint and a wood canvas. Would you relate your work to graffiti and collage? My work usually is just a mess of random objects and colors. I can see some of both in my work at times, but my style I feel like is always changing. You’ve done artwork on random canvases. Do you collect old items? How does that work? I actually started finding stuff on the side of road here in Charleston. Things that people throw away can make for great canvases and if I can’t think of something to put on it at the time then I’ll save it for a future project. Do you consider all of your work as doodles or work off impulse? Both. Sometimes there’s a warm up and others times it just happens. I see a lot of humor in your work. Do you agree? Yeah but it’s usually never on purpose. How would you describe your style? Abstract, random. Any artists in your family? None that do it for a living, but my aunt has done some nice paintings. Some of your paintings are 3D, for instance the egg and bacon canvas, describe that process. I used a lot of cardboard. This piece was part of a few others I made as Christmas gifts. I’m not sure how I started playing around with making my work 3D. It just kind of happened and I went with it. Do you still smoke? Does that help create different ideas within your work? In the words of Hunter S. Thompson, “I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they’ve always worked for me.” Favorite rap song right now? Man of the Year (Schoolboy Q) but honestly I listen to anything that “sounds good”. Do you name your work or do you prefer it to be a mystery? If I can think of a name at the time then sure but it just depends on how I feel. What makes you happy? Finding new stuff to use for canvases. What’s the motto you live by? I live by two that my dad has told me forever: (1) If you’re going to do something dumb. You better be smart about it. (2) If you don’t bring it, you can’t use it. What motivates you? Not having to work in the food & beverage business anymore. Anything special behind the “wet dog” painting? My cousin actually bought the canvas as a Christmas present for me and we talked about trying to paint a picture of his dog Gibbs, a Boykin spaniel. I started with pastels and just didn’t like how it was going so I threw paint and scribbled WET DOG! LOL, my work usually finds itself after I finished, if I ever feel like I’m finished.
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Writer Courtney Gill
the cancer survivor rediscovering “the beautiful”
How would you define beauty? Beauty is a continuum: it goes from the beauty of objects to the beauty that might be found or understood when the whole sense of difference between self and other collapses and the vessel for instance is no longer seen as a mere object separate from myself, but is actually understood to be an expression of the divine in the world: a wholeness that cannot be reduced to parts. So beauty to you is more than just an idea, it has its own sort of a physical existence, but it goes beyond that, it transcends? Yeah, so there could be this beautiful object: like, I have this absolutely lovely gourd, it’s not a gourd, it’s a clay pot. I believe it’s Navaho, that I picked up in New Mexico two years ago. It’s hand painted, geometric, spiral square print. The squares are about as big as a freckle, I’m not kidding you. All hand painted by a guy whose blind in one eye; where does that come from? It’s absolutely stunning. It is so perfectly harmonious, and yet it’s not perfect, not every square has the right angles at the right place… but the totality is complete harmony. Do you think it was going through cancer treatment that allowed you to look at beauty as a whole? I think that really had a good something to
do with it… on a couple of different levels. I simply cannot live my life focusing on the fear that I’m going to get cancer again, that every little ache and pain in my body means the cancer is back, that I can’t even fathom going through the process again, I don’t even know how I did it the first time. When I turn my attention to beauty and The Beautiful I become far more expansive in my life. I let more energy into myself and there’s humor, and there’s love, and there’s all these things that are very easily shut down by the basic fear of death. (laughs) so for me it’s a form of resilience: the practice of turning my attention toward beauty and the Beautiful. It’s a necessity. But I don’t characterize it as a turning away from fear, like I’m running from what happened: I’m actually turning toward something. And, it’s funny because I haven’t been able to paint for a really long time and I did all that iPad art last year, but I’ve started to paint again! What else can I tell you? A little more about your artistic journey and its influences throughout the years and how it’s shifted... There’s such a big influence in my life [from] early life travel and looking down upon the earth from countless airplanes and noticing that the patterns that I’m seeing in the earth’s surface corresponded with patterns that I would see in science class
when looking at the human body through pictures and slides. The river delta from 25,000 feet looks like the bronchial tree of the human lung and interestingly since I’ve had cancer I’m thinking about all the systems of the body and how my personal body is a mirror. The only difference between it and the planet, really, is scale, and all the patterns are the same. The patterns are still the same, so I think of the river delta now and the lymphatic system of my body and how my lymphatic system has been under assault, unable to move: it’s been congested, carrying toxins, it’s been trying to move waste out of the system and there’s nowhere to go. It’s just like any polluted watershed. I’m a polluted watershed walking around, right, so there’s a lot about that correspondence that is influencing how I think about my art now… I can look back on the work I did in the early 2000’s and see the texturing is so evocative of being able to see the painting from different points of view… in some ways the art of the early 2000’s was pre-staging my coming into more conscious understanding of my personal relationship as a body in relation to the body of the earth itself. And then this whole inquiry I’m involved in with my doctorate about wholeness and beauty and ecological identity and what is that, and what constitutes it in my case, it has both been served by 107
all that work that was emerging that was beyond me, Courtney, I mean, I didn’t sit down and make that art that I made for 8 years, it just poured out. And now, having seen that connection is driving me to a different way of relating to the canvas, a much more formal, I guess, way of approaching it ceremonially, understanding that… it’s not just about going up there and throwing around paint anymore, I’m trying to synthesize this ecological, biological, geological body knowledge with my increasing understand of how formal human systems actually work in the world. Is there any particular culture that fascinates you? Ancient China. No question about it; ancient China. Contemporary China scares me. What is it about Ancient China that draws you in? They practice beauty in culture and elegance. There’s something in the Asian orientation to beauty and elegance in the early days, before they became more westernized, where you could walk into a town, at least the more developed towns, and see a consistency of aesthetic through every building, even the most humble hut would have some tile, some water, some swept path you know, just attention to detail. What time period or place do you think you should have been born in? You know, existentially, I’m where I’m meant to be. But if you could be, would you choose Ancient China? You just won’t let go! Would it be China, or someplace else? I don’t know what the status of women was in Ancient China, of course I don’t know if I’d be there as a woman or not. But ok so, where would I go? I’d probably go to Polynesia.
Why? The sea. The sensuality of living in nature, at least for the earlier people that lived there. There’s the beauty of it, I don’t know, there’s some sort of karma connection down there. Fiji, Polynesia. Do you have a life motto? No, I don’t. If you had one, what would it be? Oh man, I don’t know, what would it be? I don’t know. I don’t know. I don’t know what anything is. I don’t know what anything is. That’s your motto? Yeah. “I don’t know what anything is,” and if I remember that, then I might actually be able to see what’s in front of me. It allows anything to be possible. So I remind myself I really don’t know what a single thing is; I don’t know what a single thing is. And I don’t know if that’s a motto, but that’s a reminder. How would you describe yourself in ten words? going nowhere, being everywhere. Do you have a favorite quote? David Abram, “Planting words, like seeds, under rocks and fallen logs – letting language take root, once again, in the earthen silence of shadow and bone and leaf.” You said your childhood has been a great influence on you and your work, did you have a favorite fairy tale growing up? We had this big book of fables I used to look at. It’s almost like I’ve forgotten that part of my life that’s all gone underground. I probably need to go back and look. The Germanic fables I think… they tend to have a darkness to them, I need to go back and look. You know, anything with a dark woods. So you tend to prefer originals to Disney’s happy spins on the tales? Oh, Absolutely. Disney makes me
crazy. If you could come back as anything, what would it be? My motive is God realization; it’s not a better bodily experience. I can’t really give you an answer to that question. Do you have any irrational fears? I for one am terrified of space, dinosaurs and tornadoes. That’s interesting, irrational fears… isn’t that like an oxymoron?
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white noise Photographer Aaron Bernstein Fashion Editor & Stylist Natalia Colichon
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nancy donahue Writer Sara Donahue Nancy Donahue began her modeling career in the late 70’s and went on to become one of the most successful fashion models of her time. The daughter of a noted lawyer and a philanthropist mother, Donahue grew up in Lowell, Massachusetts as one of eleven children. After being discovered, she went on to land her first cover in the August 1978 issue of Mademoiselle magazine. Mademoiselle then featured her as the cover girl for ten more issues of the magazine. With an outstanding start to her career, Donahue signed with Elite Model Management under John Casablancas. With a new life ahead of her, she moved to New York City at the fresh age of eighteen. Over the next two decades, Donahue worked side by side with the best in the industry. From models like Christy Brinkley, to Janice Dickinson, Kim Alexis, Kelly Emberg, and Esme, these women together started the craze of the “supermodel”. Donahue graced the covers and editorial spreads of essentially every top fashion magazine in the world: American Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Mademoiselle, Self, Redbook, Italian Vogue, British Vogue, French Vogue, Italian Bazaar, and More. She also led several campaigns for Helena Rubenstein, Avon, Clairol, and Virginia 140
Slims. Early in her career, Donahue strutted down runways in New York and Hong Kong for Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, and Perry Ellis. Donahue’s career extended into the fashion catalog business, working countless issues for Lord & Taylor, Neiman Marcus, and Bloomingdale’s. Throughout her time in the industry she had the opportunity to work with world renowned photographers, including Richard Avedon, Francesco Scavullo, Irving Penn, Hiro, Arthur Elgort, Patrick Demarchelier, Stephen Anderson, and Steve Landis. Donahue was the co-author of the book ONE on ONE with her former husband and fashion model, Jeff Aquilon. It went on to be a best-selling book about two people giving physically and emotionally to each other. After establishing herself in the industry, Donahue took a break from the world of modeling and tried her hand in some other fields. Her biggest passions in life are health and fitness. Over this time she devoted herself to fitness, and became the Fitness Director for a major club right outside Boston, along with becoming a certified personal trainer, and a yoga and Pilates teacher. A true fitness advocate,
Donahue has run six full marathons and over 100 Olympic distance triathlons. She competed in Escape from Alcatraz twice, which stands as one of the most difficult races in the world. But her drive didn’t stop there. A born entrepreneur, Donahue then founded BelleCore in 2007 and produced the BelleCore Bodybuffer beauty tool. Designed for fitness and wellness, the Bodybuffer provides vigorous, deep-tissue muscle massage and skin exfoliation and is an internationally acclaimed beauty product. It is the number one selling beauty tool at Harrods, and won the Beauty Tools & Gadgets Award at Neiman Marcus’ Beauty Awards in 2011. From a beauty to a business woman, Donahue has it all: a life filled with much success and spirit. Donahue talks about her modeling career, and what she is up to now, with her life back to being in front of the cameras. “This is the happiest I have been in my life and that’s because there is now more to look forward to than at any time in my past. I am re-launching my modeling career, concentrating on fitness and eating well and starting a new business venture with some of the brightest people I know. ”
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industry now? When I was discovered, there were only a handful of girls that really worked and all were “discovered”. Not one girl from my day “wanted or strived” to be a model. The girls these days are very different. They have plastic surgery done before the age of 18, have nothing to give. No heart or soul. I experienced this just the other week while working for a client called CAbi. I watched a young Russian girl work. Again, she was beautiful, knew the poses but no emotion was coming through. The photographer and art director had to really push her for some true emotion and some LIFE! What is your favorite aspect of the industry? My favorite aspect of the industry are the amazing, creative, talented people that I have met. Everyone is so talented and artistic. They all are true artists and we made beautiful art together. These days I will cherish for the rest of my life! What do you find most challenging about being in the industry? The most challenging aspect of the industry was it was hard to WORK as a model. You have to know how to work the clothes, you have to show emotion and exude energy. You have people picking and pulling at you all day long. In my day, you did at least 15 shoots per day. That is a lot of work but I had fun. Do you do anything specific to prepare for a shoot? To prepare for my last shoot for CAbi. I had to get my hair cut and colored. I
had a facial, nails done, eyelashes died, eyebrows dyed and groomed and nails manicured. I watched what I ate weeks before the shoot and of course exercised every day but I do that anyway.. Has modeling changed any other aspects of your life? Modeling has taught me so many things. Going into a job you to learn to get along with everyone from the photographer to the Art Director, Editor of the magazine, make up and hair and other models. There were so many different personalities to deal with and in order to make the shoot work, everyone had to be in harmony. I love people and meeting new people, so this was fun for me! What do you think makes a great photographer? A great photographer is someone that can connect with a model and draw that special emotion from you. You have to connect on so many levels in order to get the picture. So many photographers taught me how to move, really dig into my soul and exude what is inside. The photographers from my day, made you WORK for the shot! I learned so much and love them all. What was your favorite outfit you wore during your career? Favorite outfit! Tough question. Everything! I especially loved doing the Paris collections in Paris for American Vogue. This was Haute Couture clothes. One of kind, truly special from the houses of Chanel, Oscar, Dior, Armani and so many others The clothes were
absolutely exquisite! You are very into fashion, what would you say is your signature style? My style is eclectic. I go from wearing high end pieces like Chanel and Armani with a pair of jeans and heels. I can also do JCREW style which is easy and the clothes are simple but have style as well. I like to mix it up-high end with low end it gives it a bit of a twist. The couture clothes I have are not ordinary. I like to go “outside the box” when I purchase. I have several Armani jackets that are “one of a kind” that I adore. I also have some very interesting pieces from Oscar de la Renta and from Chanel as well. I recently discovered Sandro and Kooples while in London. Love them all. Who is your favorite designer? Fav Designger-Armani, Chanel, Oscar and now Sandro! What makes you really happy? My family and friends make me happy. I have the best family and friends in the world. Most of my closest friends are from my modeling days. Friends for life. I also have to say, exercise makes me happy. If I don’t exercise. Watch out… not happy! What is your life motto? Life motto: “Glass is always half full” I am always super positive. You can do whatever you want in life-just got for it. How do you take your coffee? Coffee-Black!
LOVE sits down with Nancy and talks about her past, her present, and her future… How did you first get into the industry? I was discovered at Lasell College in Newton, Massachusetts. I had never worn makeup a day in my life at this point! I was dating a model/bartender named Frank Dzurenko. He modeled for Mademoiselle magazine a lot. They asked him if he knew of any “cute girls” and he said my girlfriend is pretty cute. So, I went for an interview for the August College Issue of Mademoiselle along with 200 other girls. I got the job and the cover for the August issue. From there, Mademoiselle gave me a contract to do ten covers as long as I just worked for them. Right time, right place, super lucky! Who were some of your biggest influences growing up? I would have to say my biggest influences growing up were my family. My Mom 142
and Dad, along with my best friend, Brigitte Gallagher. Brigitte knew more about modeling than I did! She would show me all the fashion magazines and tell me who every model was. Of course, my Mother and Father are excellent role models. That is where it starts-at home! Who would you say were your biggest supporters as you started your career? Biggest supporters, again my family but also some of the amazing hair/makeup people who took me under their wing. I moved to NYC at the age of 19 and not a clue about anything. No cell phones, no computers, just telephones. What was the first surreal moment of your career? Being young and naïve, I had no idea what a “big deal” it was to be on so many covers of Vogue, Mademoiselle, Self all the international Vogue etc. I thought everyone did this.. So, in retrospect, my whole career was surreal! A favorite shoot or photographer?
I have several “favorite” shoots and several favorite photographers. Each photographer taught you something. Eric Boman for British Vogue issue, 1980 something was probably my most favorite cover and sitting. Eric really captured my heart and soul. Every photographer would always tell me “Eric Boman is the only photographer that really captures you”. He is still my dear friend to this day. Are you still close with the models you worked with? I am really close with some of the girls I worked with. Kelly Emberg, Kim Alexis, Esme and Lisa Ryall (Perry Ellis girl). We still keep in touch and have quite an amazing friendship.. They are all doing various jobs, living in different cities but we always stayed connected throughout the 35 years-we have a special bond. The industry has gone through a lot of changes, how do you feel about the
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ripe Photographer Weston Doty Fashion Editor & Accessories Stylist Natalia Colichon
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from the inside out: lingerie as outerwear Writer Courtney Gill Photographer Gwen O’Neil
For the past few years, lingerie has been seeping back into the fashion world. Whereas we once viewed the showing off a bra strap to be improper, there has been a shift once again towards lingerie as outerwear. Society has embraced the idea of leaving less to the imagination, making it perfectly acceptable for lingerie to be worn in place of traditional clothing. This style is pushing the limit to wearing bralets as tops with no additional coverage. While some prefer to continue with the trend of showing glimpses of their intimate-ware through lace or sheer garments, there has been a push towards lingerie standing on its own to the point of it becoming outerwear, especially in the form of bralets, corsets and slip dresses. There is no denying that intimate apparel is becoming less and less intimate. The line between lingerie and outerwear has been blurring since the 80’s when Madonna first donned her iconic Jean Paul Gaultier cone bra: a style which she and Gaultier would later breathe new life into in 2012. In discussing the reinvented conical icon, Gaultier commented, “what I have done this time is a nod to the conical bra corset of the Blond Ambition tour but reinterpreted in 3-D.” Vivienne Westwood and Malcom McLaren 150
introduced the idea of wearing bras outside of clothing back in 1982. Although, it wasn’t until Madonna that the trend took off and became influential. Celebrities including Rihanna, Katy Perry, Lady Gaga and Beyoncé have reblurred the line between underwear and outerwear since 2009, when they chose to perform in lingerie. The styling of bras and corsets being worn over clothing reemerged on the runway in 2011 when Jean Paul Gaultier played around with the concept. More designers started to embrace this notion in 2014 including Prada, Marni and Ostwald Helgason, incorporating this styling into their collections. The slip dress can trace its beginnings back to the popular undergarments of the 1920’s, the 1960’s, and as a reemerging trend with its strongest roots in the 90’s. It was this decade where influencers such as Princess Diana donned a Dior slip dress in 1996, and Gwyneth Paltrow showed off a Calvin Klein slip dress at the Oscars that same year. Together with Kate Moss and Sex in the City character Carrie Bradshaw, this trend found its way into popular culture. Victoria Beckham was quick to adopt Louis Vuitton’s slip dress from the fall/winter 2013 collection and was featured wearing it on the
cover of Vogue Australia’s September issue. The following year, runway shows were filled with reemerging slip dresses including looks by Dolce & Gabanna, Jason Wu, Narciso Rodriguez, Sharon Wauchob, Sportsmax, Tocca and Aexis Mabille. It was back in 1994 that Mark Badgley expressed that “The slip dress is the most basic form of a dress. It’s like a T-shirt. There are a million ways to make it look new and different each season.” Looking at the runway and street fashion, there’s no denying that he was right. On May 10, 2013, the Great Gatsby was introduced into theatres. Its costuming had lightness about it as detailing and materials usually reserved for lingerie and slips were added in the form of sheer materials. Lace trimmings and other delicate detailing not just under their clothes but as elements of ornamentation on top were implemented in design. The Great Gatsby along with other 20’s based movies including the Artist and Midnight in Paris, which had come out in 2011, influenced the shift towards lingerie becoming outerwear in the form of softer silhouettes and the reemergence of the slip dress in today’s fashion. Just as women are becoming more comfortable with the revealing of their 151
intimate apparel, they are too becoming more open to carrying around romance novels in public spaces, be it on the subway or in a coffee shop. E. L. James’ ‘50 Shades of Grey’ was published by Random House on March 19, 2012. According to Audrey Goodson, RT Book Review Editor; the ’50 Shades’ trilogy “became a part of current pop culture, of the zeitgeist. People won’t stop talking about it, so it perpetuates the sales, perpetuates the mythos.” After the enormous hype that surrounded rumors of the trilogy being turned into a movie, it was officially announced in March of 2012 that Universal Pictures and Focus Features secured the rights to transform the series that has sold over 100 million copies worldwide into a movie trilogy. The ’50 Shades’ books have inspired parodies both in the online world and sketches on SNL in addition to increasing the sales of sex toys and reigniting the sex life of countless individuals. E.L. James has decided to take on the fashion world, negotiating licensing deals for official ‘50 Shades’ merchandise. Perhaps we are amidst another sexual revolution, the fashion trends sure suggest that this is so, but it goes beyond 152
that. There is a shift that has been taking place in our culture. Consider once again the impact that the ‘50 Shades’ series has had. It has driven people, women in particular, to be more comfortable with discussing sex and some even claim that the book has saved their marriage. It has influenced the sales of sex toys and has made reading romance novels in public acceptable and the discussion of it a norm. But what does this really mean for our society and for the mindset of women in particular? If this shift is encouraging people to not shy away from basic human cravings but to embrace and explore our own bodies and desires; if this trend is opening lines of communication for struggling couples, I believe that is a beautiful thing. But what if this trend is a shift towards the objectification of women rather than about self-acceptance and embracing our assets? What is driving this compulsion for women to show more skin and bind their bodies with corsets once more? While some people are likely to be repulsed by this direction of fashion, viewing it as risqué or believing that the women is reducing herself to merely a thing to be desired, I choose to view it
as a statement of empowerment. Like many women, I feel the most confident and secure with myself when I’m in my best lingerie. Sometimes you just want to wear something that fills you with confidence and makes you feel desirable, as though no man or woman alive would refuse you, not that it would matter because you have found contentment and you are enough for yourself. Lingerie makes me feel like I can take on the world. When I choose to wear a sheer top or a vintage corset, I am choosing to carry a slice of that confidence with me throughout that day. I’m not doing it for any man that may or may not be in my life, it isn’t about wanting attention, it is purely for me. It is what I find to be aesthetically pleasing, and is about self-acceptance. It will be interesting to watch this trend of lingerie becoming outerwear as it continues to gain momentum and unfold. I am curious to see what further influences it will have on popular culture. We know it is being strongly embraced by designers and has been experimented with by today’s society, but how far will it go? I know my reasons for embracing this shift, do you know yours? 153
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SPLIT
personalities
the origin and its relevance on the runway Writer Kaleigh Ryan
Movie where the cop character is characterized by his split personalities of “good” and “bad” cop. The music industry has seen its fair share of multiple personality disorder interpretations but most in this field refer to the notion as “alter egos,” or, “second selves.” Rapper Marshall Mathers, better known by his stage name Eminem, often embodies his alter ego known as Slim Shady who is characterized by violence and crude behavior. A more
past few seasons. A much subtler, yet still very apparent interpretation of the split personality concept was seen in Mary Katrantzou’s Fall 2014 RTW through contrasting lengths and/or colors on a single dress or skirt. Yet again a different version was revealed in the highly talked about Chanel Fall 2014 RTW. The element of multiple personalities and dissociative identities was seen in a variety of pieces throughout the show. Lagerfeld unveiled
personalities they often “dress the part,” so to speak. When Nikki Minaj is portraying her alter ego known as Roman, a personality described by Nikki herself as a homosexual, blond man from London, England who tends to be very outspoken, she dresses a bit more masculinity and wears a blonde wig. The reality when it comes to fashion is that it has always been an expression of one self but more than that; it has been an expression of the self one
‘Reasoning for having developed said alter egos, as said by Nicki herself, ranges from creative exploration to coping mechanisms to simply for fun.’ recently popular songstress, Nicki Minaj, is said to have fifteen different alter egos. While the artist cites some of the egos as having been, “retired,” seven of the egos are presented in at least one of her songs. Reasoning for having developed said alter egos, as said by Nicki herself, ranges from creative exploration to coping mechanisms to simply for fun. Fashion being an art form all on its own, it’s no surprise that the industry has begun to develop its own variety of interpretations of Multiple Personality Disorder. The theme has been depicted a variety of ways through use of color, textile, form, shape, and often a combination of said elements. DID was expressed quite literally in Alexis Mabille’s Spring 2010 Haute Couture collection. The designer’s models hit the runway carrying the concept full circle by presenting not only garments strikingly split by color (most hot pink or bright red with their other half a solid black) but also their hair and beauty looks. The trend has been more evident in the metallic slacks with each pant leg split by juxtaposing color as well as the pairing of highly functional sneakers with high-end, tailored formal suits or exquisite evening dresses. Looser interpretations of the trend were appreciated at Tommy Hilfiger with cable sweaters separated by knit technique and color and also at Balmain with a look revealing a full-length sleeve on one side and a strapless bodice form as its counterpart. While the acknowledgement of split personality as a fashion trend is a recent comprehension for many fashionistas, actual garments have long held a role in the characterization of the disorder. When someone decides they want to present themselves a certain way often what is altered is his or her physical appearance, namely their clothing. When an actor is playing a role, much time, resources, and money are spent to be sure the costume is fitting for said role. Similarly, when a patient diagnosed with DID embodies one of their desires to be. Through our choice in clothing we are able to appear to the world as we like. The increasing popularity of two or more identities simultaneously being represented through one garment will only allow further expression of individual, or who that individual wishes to be.
Designs characterized by opposing elements were seen everywhere from Derek Lam’s sleek tops to Tommy Hilfiger’s chunky knit sweaters this season. While the interpretation of split personalities has emerged in the fashion world relatively recently, the concept itself has a history dating all the way back to the 18th century. The mental illness of Multiple Personality Disorder (also known as Dissociative Identity Disorder, DID) is defined by Psychology Today as, “a severe condition in which two or more distinct identities, or personality states, are present in-and alternately take control of-an individual.” While the first case of DID was described in 1816 it wasn’t until 1980 that the disorder was considered an official illness according to the Diagnostic and Statistic Manual of Mental Disorders. It may have taken over a century for the certified medical 176
establishment of multiple personality disorder but interest in the disease began to filter into many parts of our culture long before then. Literary curiosity in DID began with Robert Louis Stevenson’s 1886 novel The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. Since then the inquisitiveness, fascination, and interpretation of multiple personality disorders has been seen continually in the worlds of literature, art, music, film, photography, television, and fashion. The subject of Dissociative Identity Disorder has been popular among many celebrated artists, one of them being the distinguished Vincent Van Gogh. Van Gogh has always stirred curiosity in the psychiatric field and because of his symptoms of DID, and many have made the claim that the artist himself suffered from the disease. Van Gogh left behind five volumes of letters
in which the artist’s temper, mental disturbances, and own concern for personal stability are described. The letters also contain words from his own brother characterizing Van Gogh, “as if he were two persons, one marvelously gifted, tender, and refined; the other egotistic and hardhearted…” He then goes on to discuss how the two personalities take turns presenting themselves. Although it will never be fully proven, Vincent Van Gogh’s many varying selfportraits also lend credence to his diagnosis of Dissociative Identity disorder. Some of the most well-known examples of the presence of DID in film have been Hitchcock’s 1960 film Psycho, the 1976 adaptation of Sybil, Jim Carrey’s role as both Charley Baileygates and Hank Evans in Me, Myself, & Irene (2000), and even in this year’s children’s film The Lego
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now trending: split personalities Writer Kaleigh Ryan
When the hype of fashion week dies down I’m left to formulate my own interpretations as to how in the world designers curated the work I’ve been privy to viewing. For myself, it’s often designers such as Rei Kawakubo and Karl Lagerfeld that evoke a figurative jaw-drop. Each season I doubt their ability to create something more interesting or as successful as the last and yet, show after show, I continue to be struck by marvel. In the seasons past it has been their trend interpretations specifically that have left me in awe. Most recently, the flourishing trend of Dissociative Identity Disorder (DID), better understood as split personalities. What I often find most interesting about a trend is how it is interpreted. While the trend itself may be simply defined by a color or fabrication, designers repeatedly develop their own versions of trends. In the past year we’ve seen a wide variety from the resurgence of active wear to the popularity of 178
androgyny. Among the vast sea of fashion crazes the particular trend of split personalities has maintained some staying power. The general influence of mental illness has been seen as inspiration in all realms of art, whether it be cinema, fine art, or, as discussed here, fashion. I believe what makes the trend of the specific mental illness DID so fascinating is its capability to encompass everything from knee-high sneakers paired with evening dresses to cable knit sweaters of varying knit patterns. Having such a loose foundation, defined medically by two or more distinct identities maintaining a simultaneous presence, has allowed for the trend to flourish in the fashion industry. Among those who chose to interpret split personalities through their designs, an always favorite of mine (as noted prior), Ms. Kawakubo seems to have been one of the first to incorporate the concept. Versions of split personalities have a history in Rei’s work. Looking back as far as
Fall 2003, when an ensemble grazed the runway that appeared half black cape, half white summer dress, to this past year, when the Comme Des Garcons men’s show revealed jerseyknit, floor-length blazers alongside asymmetrical black and white coats, the influence of DID shines through. Aside from Comme Des Garcons, other successful interpretations of split personalities were seen from the stark contrast of Thom Browne’s half-sleeve, half-cape jackets (Fall ’14 RTW) to the subtle varying lengths of BCBG Max Azria’s flowy dresses (Fall ’14 RTW). After a few too many seasons of neon and girls in grillz, I, for one, am left feeling reassured and jovial at the thought of a trend that can a find a home in any woman’s closet, thanks its many variations. There is no doubt that the notion of split personalities is soon to be seen in retail stores everywhere; the real question is how will you choose to wear it? Better start thinking now; your options will be endless. 179
havana heat Photographer Aaron Bernstein Fashion Editor & Stylist Abbey Eilermann & Kaleigh Ryan 180 181
This page: Ninya wear dress by Marc Jacobs, silk head scarf by Ban.do Opposite page: Maiya wears grey dress by Megan MCCullough, silk head scarf by Ban.do First spread: Maiya wears bikini top by Wildfox, culottes by Hope Akin, silk head scarf by Ban.do
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This page: Maiya wears paper doll dress by Opposite page: Kiyana wears jumpsuit by Juicy Couture, silk head covering by Eugenia Kim 184 185
Maiya wears embroidered shift dress by Abbey Eilermann, sequined headband by Ban.do 186 187
Kiyana wears feline onesie and trouser by Marc Jacobs
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“freedom lies in being BOLD.” -William Shakespeare
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