Country Overview___________________
Japan Travel Guide 2015
Natalia Quintero // @nataliazarina
Japan consists of over 6,800 islands Japan has the world's third-largest economy by nominal GDP (behind US and China) and the world's fourth-largest economy by purchasing power parity. There are 127 million people living in the country, of which 9.1M live in Tokyo. Japan is ruled by a unitary parliamentary with a figurative constitutional monarchy
Country Profile_______________________
industry, it embraces and reinvents in a way that is uniquely Japanese—from Chinese Buddhism to Western industrialization. Politically Japan is led by an elected prime minister and a bicameral legislature called the ‘National Diet’. It also has a reigning emperor who serves as symbol of national unity and upholds the highest criterions of Japanese tradition. The strong economy is fueled by its exports of “motor vehicles, electronics, machine tools, steel, ships, chemical substances, textiles, and processed foods. Japan accounts for nearly 15% of the global fish catch1” and also brags a low unemployment rate of ~4%.
Japan is a remarkable country for many reasons – it’s oversized cities, delectable food, unique culture, powerful economy—but most fundamentally, it is notable because it is one of the few island nations that has not been colonized by a major eastern or western power. While it has been significantly influenced by its neighbors (Korea and China), and more recently by the United States and the West, historically it has exercised the unique privilege of having no next-door neighbors, a characteristic that very few nations can claim. This fact alone puts Japan on a very short list of countries that have had long lasting autonomy in politics, culture, and economic development. This distinctive characteristic is also paired with a statement that cannot be understated; the influence of other nations on Japan has been enormous and permeates nearly all aspects of its culture. This is precisely what I find most interesting about Japan. What it learns from other cultures, be it in art or
“Following three decades of unprecedented growth, Japan's economy experienced a major slowdown starting in the 1990s. In March 2011, Japan's strongest-ever earthquake, and an accompanying tsunami, devastated the northeast part of Honshu island, killed thousands, and damaged several nuclear power plants.”2 This natural disaster’s impact was felt across the globe as it literally shifted the tilt of the earth, the speed of rotation, and the length of the day ever so slightly3. Today Japan continues its economic and infrastructural recovery from these crises. This formally pacifist nation has tensions that continue as it disputes its ownership of a variety of islands with Russia, China, South Korea and Taiwan. Paired with long-standing tensions from WWII, Japan’s international affairs leave room for improved diplomacy as they strive for continued peace and move further into the 21st century. 1
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japan#Economy https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/print_ja.html 3 http://www.space.com/11115-japan-earthquake-shortened-earth-days.html 2
History____________________________
Oda Nobunaga
Toyotomi Hideyoshi
Tokugawa Ieyasu
Japan4 has a long history with the first humans arriving around 35,000 B.C.. The position of Japan relative to the Asian mainland had played a significant role in the country's development. Although the archipelago is situated near the mainland, there is still a considerable amount of open sea, which separates the two landmasses. Throughout most of Japan's history, it has been closed to the outside world refusing to open its borders to foreigners. The sakoku policy, literal translation "locked country", enacted in 1633 by the Tokugawa Shogunate prevented foreigners from entering Japan on penalty of death. The same policy also prevented Japanese from leaving Japan.
Japan’s cultural renaissance
Samurais rule! (Literally)
Warring states period (Sengoku Jidai)
The first historical documents mentioning Japan date to around the 5th century. Japanese myth holds that Emperor Jimmu was the first emperor of an imperial line that is still in place today. However, archaeological evidence gathered by a number of researchers place the imperial rule starting later around the third to seventh centuries AD, during the Kofun period. The following Asuka regime during the mid 8th century is noted for a more centralized Japan in which Chinese culture significantly influenced Japanese traditions.
Nobunaga, Hideoshi, and Ieyasu !!
Japan’s isolation to the world, ending US visit
Nara was the first centralized capital of the nation established in the late 8th century. The layout of the capital city was influenced by Chang’an, the capital of China during that time. The Nara period was the last time 4
http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/arrange/essential/overview/history.html http://web-japan.org/museum/historyofjp/histjp.html summary: http://www.facts-about-japan.com/brief-history.html
that political power was held by the emperor. The following Heian period was characterized by an affluent aristocracy with eccentric social customs, and the moving of the capital from Nara to Kyoto. The capital city of Kyoto became the residence of Japan’s emperors until the late 19th century. Toward the end of the Heian period, the aristocracy lost their power and the Kamakura period marked the beginning of military rule. Regional warlords became powerful and often rose to become Shogun, a position that sometimes wielded more power than the Emperor. During this period, a caste system developed with the Shogun at the top. The Shogun controlled large areas of land and would divide it up and delegate responsibility to a Daimyo, or regional warlord. The Daimyo ruled with an army of Samarai who protected the land and its people. Feudal Japan did not allow for social mobility and marrying outside one’s own caste was prohibited. After a succession of powerful Shogun, Japan fell into a state of nearanarchy as provinces declared war upon one another during the 15th century. In 1600 during the Azuchi-Momoyama period, Tokugawa Ieyasu moved to reunify the country and successfully established the Tokugawa Shogunate. Under the Tokugawa Shogunate the feudalist system was reestablished. During his reign, Tokugawa ruled from Edo, the location of present day Tokyo. Under the Tokugawa Shogunate the Edo period was a time of stability for the Japanese people, but there was little or no development when compared to other nations in the rest of the world during the same period. From 1852-1854, Commodore Matthew Perry negotiated a trade agreement between Japan and the United States. The government at Tokyo was forced to agree to the demands of the United States as they were intimidated by the technologically advanced and heavily armed fleet of steam frigates under the command of Commodore Perry. The ships in Perry's fleet are now known in Japan as the "Black Ships" and have come to symbolize the threat imposed by western technology.
In 1867, the Tokugawa Shogunate collapsed, and gave way to the Meiji Restoration. The imperial capital was moved from Kyoto to Tokyo, renamed from Edo to Tokyo (Eastern Capital). Japan then directed their efforts toward industrialization and modernization. During World War I the United States and Japan fought on the same side although relations were not favorable between the two nations due to policy disagreements over China and competition for power in the Pacific. After World War I Japan's economy began to decline and hit a low point during the Showa recession in 1926. The negative impact of the recession combined with domestic political turmoil (assassination attempts on the emperor, coups d'etat attempts, terrorist violence) ultimately contributed to the increased militarism in Japan during the late 1920's and 1930's. Japanese imperialist policy aimed to dominate China to acquire its vast material reserves and natural resources. In the early 1930's there were many small-scale military engagements in so-called "incidents" between the two sides. This culminated into a full-scale war in 1937. Western powers were reluctant to provide support to the Chinese who they thought would eventually lose the war. The United States entered the war in December 1941 after the surprise attack on Pearl Harbor by Japanese forces. In 1945, atomic bombs were dropped on the Japanese cities of Hiroshima and Nagasaki and Japan surrendered soon afterward. After surrendering Japan was occupied by the Allied Forces marking the first time in the nation's history it had been occupied by a foreign power. After the occupation ended in 1951, Japan's government shifted from imperial and military rule to a parliamentary democracy. Today, despite suffering massive losses during World War II and possessing very little natural resources, Japan has become an economic and technological powerhouse.
Itinerary___________________________ Week 1 Daytime City Evening City Hotel Week 2 Daytime City Evening City Hotel
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday
Sunday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
NYC Tokyo Tokyo Hotel
Tokyo Naoshima Benesse Hotel
Naoshima Kyoto Ryokan
Kyoto Kyoto Ryokan
Kyoto Kyoto Ryokan
NYC Tokyo
Tokyo Naoshima
Naoshima Kyoto
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Kyoto Osaka Temple in Koyasan
Osaka Koyasan Temple in Koyasan
Koyasan Tokyo
Tokyo Tokyo
Tokyo Apt.
Tokyo Apt.
Friday
Saturday
Sunday
Tokyo Tokyo Tokyo Apt.
Tokyo Tokyo Tokyo Apt.
Tokyo Tokyo / NYC
Week 2 (con't) Daytime City Evening City Hotel
Tokyo
# of Nights 6
Kyoto
2
Naoshima Koyasan Osaka
1 1 1
Location
Naoshima__________________________
Working Hypothesis The first week will be focused on exploring locations that highlight traditional Japanese culture, art or religion. Short, efficient, well-designed stays in Naoshima (art island), Kyoto (cultural HQ), and Koyasan (Buddhist retreat) will fulfill this aspect of the trip. The second week will be dedicated to exploring modern Japan via Tokyo. It’ll balance the first week of intense travel with an extended stay in the same city, with potential day trips to Hakone / Nikko.
Useful Resources: Planning train travel: http://www.hyperdia.com/ Specific to Naoshima: http://www.benesse-artsite.jp/en/access/pdf/bus_timetable.pdf General Information: http://www.japan-guide.com/
Naoshima (直島) is an island in the Seto Inland Sea that is known for its modern art museums, architecture and sculptures. Part of Kagawa Prefecture, the island with its Mediterranean atmosphere, sandy beaches and sunny weather, combined with a laid back, rural feel is a relaxing getaway from Japan's large urban areas such as Tokyo and Osaka. Much of Naoshima's art was installed by the Benesse Corporation, which oversees art museums, installations and sculptures both on Naoshima and on neighboring islands. Benesse's museums were designed by the well known Japanese architect Ando Tadao and include the Chichu Art Museum, Lee Ufan Museum and all the buildings of the Benesse House. In addition, Naoshima's municipal buildings and schools were designed by the modern architect Ishii Kazuhiro.
Getting There 1. (Double check trains!) Depart Tokyo on 6am train to > Okayama > Chayamachi > Uno
3. Upon arrival at Naoshima, Miyanoura Port take Benesse House Museum Bus5 (Check in is at 3pm, drop off bags with shuttle and explore)
2. Upon arrival at Uno take the Shikoku Kisen Ferry to Naoshima
5
Time table for shuttle: http://www.benesse-artsite.jp/en/access/pdf/bus_timetable.pdf
Main Attractions
“Rental bicycles are a pleasant alternative for exploring the island, although some of the roads traverse moderate hills. Bicycles are available from the Miyanoura ferry terminal for 500 yen per day and electric assisted bicycles for 2000 yen per day. Passionate walkers could also consider walking between the ferry terminal and the sights, however, distances are considerable, and most visitors will prefer travel by bus or bicycle”6
Day 1 Note: Though the Chichu Museum is the highlight of Naoshima, it is recommended to go when it might be at its emptiest. Since we arrive midafternoon on Day 1 I think we should do the other sights and get around by bike.
Getting Around Bus (Guests of the Benesse House have access to private shuttle)
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http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5476.html
Art House Projects7. Old village houses converted into art spaces showcasing Japanese and international artists. Combined ticket for 6 projects ¥1000, which can be bought at the Honmura Lounge & Archive Building, Ueda tabacco shop, Cafe Maruya, Benesse House, Marine Station Naoshima, and the Haisha art house. If you don't have enough time to get around all of them, you may chose to buy "one-site ticket" ¥400 for 1 project only. In addition, for under 15 years old ¥0, free ticket is required. 10:00AM—4:30PM. Minamidera “Backside of the Moon” by James Turrell and house, lavatory by Tadao Ando Kadoya “Sea of Time '98”,"Naoshima’s Counter Window" ,"Changing Landscape" by Tatsuo Miyajima Go'oh Jinja (Shrine) “Appropriate Proportion” by Hiroshi Sugimoto please note that you can get into the shrine by taking the little path to the right, ie the sea side. It's quite simply incredible so don't miss it. Ishibashi "The Falls" by Hiroshi Senju Haisha "ZETSUJOMU" (Dream tasting on the tongue), "BOKKON peeper hole" by Shinro Ohtake Gokaisho “Camellia” by Etsuhiro Suda Kinza is not included in the Art House Project combined ticket. Reservation is required 3 days in advance and admission is ¥500. On Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Japanese national holidays, one can reserve 15 minutes before entry directly with the house's owner.
Naoshima Bathhouse8 "I ♥ Yu" [5] alt="直島銭湯「I♥湯」2:00p to 9:00p "A fully functional art installation with Japanese traditional public bath.Designed by Shinro Ohtake collaborated with graf. Naming "I ♥ Yu" is a pun, word playing on you and yu means hot water in Japanese. 510 yen / pp.
Benesse House9 (ベネッセハウス), Gotanji, Naoshima-cho (10 minutes by town bus from port.), ☎ +81 087-892-3223 (naoshima@mail.benesse.co.jp), [4]. 8AM-9PM. The original contemporary art museum and remains one of the best. A superb fusion of nature, art and architecture that display the works of 8
7
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5479.html
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http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5481.html http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5478.html
Andy Warhol, Richard Long, Bruce Nauman and others. The Museum building (now one of 4 buildings in the complex) was designed by world famous Japanese architect Tadao Ando. There are also numerous outdoor exhibits nearby. ¥1000.
Day 2
Lee Ufan Museum10 (（李禹煥美術館）), Gotanji, Naoshima-cho, Kagawagun, Kagawa 761-3110. Oct—Feb 10AM—5PM, Mar—Sep 10AM—6PM. The third art museum in Naoshima, which opened on 15th June, 2010. It's also designed by Tadao Ando. Displays the works of Lee Ufan李禹煥 only.
Heading out of Naoshima Head to Miyanoura to take the ferry and catch a train from Uno > Okayama to Kyoto. FERRY (20min) 6:00 AM 6:40 AM 7:50 AM 8:52 AM 9:52 AM 11:10 AM Passenger boat ( 15min) FERRY (20min) 12:45 PM 2:55 PM 4:02 PM 4:40 PM 5:40 PM 7:02 PM Passenger 1:55 PM 9:15 PM boat ( 15min)
Chichu Art Museum (地中美術館), 直島町3449-1 (Last stop of town bus), ☎ 087-892-3755 (fax: +81 087-840-8285), [3]. Oct—Feb 10AM—5PM, Mar—Sep 10AM—6PM. Designed by the architect Tadao Ando it integrates art and architecture. You can find the work of Claude Monet, Walter de Maria and James Turrell here. It is the most popular attraction on the island so try to make it early, before the crowds settle in. The James Turrell work is certainly best appreciated with as few people around as possible. Tickets must be purchased at the ticket center approximately 50m down the road. The museum offers a special night program on Friday and Saturday to view Turrell's 'Open Sky' work at sunset (Additional fee ¥500, reservation via website required.) ¥2000
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http://www.benesse-artsite.jp/en/lee-ufan/images/page_photo2.jpg
Kyoto_____________________________ Friday
Saturday
Sunday
Monday
Naoshima Kyoto
Kyoto Kyoto
Kyoto Kyoto
Kyoto Osaka
Japan's capital for over 1,000 years, Kyoto remains awash with remnants of its past glory. The city's stunning collection of UNESCO World Heritage sites alone would be enough to set it apart, but Kyoto also boasts a still-working geisha district, some of Japan's most exquisite cuisine, and a whole lot of Zen. Not that it's all temples and tradition: the city also hosts its share of hip cafes and modern art. Think of it as the cultural yin to Tokyo's yang, but with a sprinkling of modernity.11
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http://content.time.com/time/travel/cityguide/printout/0,31522,2049375_2049370_2048895-full,00.html
Getting Around
Saturday (Eastern Kyoto)
Bus. Buy a ¥500 one-day bus pass and grab an English-language copy of the city's bus map. With well-marked, color-coded routes spanning all the main attractions, and with buses that run frequently and punctually, Kyoto has one of the best bus networks in the country Subway. A convenient — and more comfortable — alternative are the city's two subways, the Karasuma and Tozai lines. The Tozai stretches east to west through the city center, while the Karasuma runs south to north, passing through Kyoto and Shijo stations. Single fares start from ¥210, but the best option is to buy a ¥600 day pass (available from any station). There are also several JR train lines that operate in the city. Bike. There are several bike rental places around the city but one that's especially good is J-Cycle, a few blocks south of Shijo Station. Here you can rent a bicycle for the day (from 10am to 6.30pm) for ¥800 to ¥1,500, depending on whether you opt for a ubiquitous single-gear shopping bicycle or a far swankier (albeit lazier) electric bike. They can also provide you with a good map of cycling routes in English. Just be warned that you'll also need to buy a one-day bicycle parking pass or risk having the local bicycle patrol impound your wheels.
Ginkakuji > Philosopher’s Path > Zenrin-ji> Nanzenji> Higashiyama District> Yasaka > Gion District> Kodaiji> Kiyomizudera (map: https://goo.gl/4NDk7h)
Our full day plan through Kyoto’s traditional residential and commercial areas, as well as the city’s most famous temples and shrines.
Ginkakuji (45 minutes) Also known as the Silver Pavilion though doesn't have a trace of silver on it. When the temple was built in the 1480s as a retirement home for the then shogun, the plan was for it to be coated in silver leaf. Scholars believe he ran out of money before they got to that part of the project. And when he died a few years later, the silver-less pavilion was converted into the Zen temple it is today. Though the temple itself is small and unassuming — a Spartan version of its illustrious golden cousin Kinkaku-ji — the reflective pond and manicured trees, the raked sand garden, and the mossy, wooded hillside to the east, from where you can see Ginkaku-ji holding back a sprawling, low-rise urban backdrop, all combine to make a spectacular whole Admission is ¼500 and it is open daily 8.30am to 5pm (9am to 4.30pm from Dec to Feb).
Philosopher's Path (90 minutes) The Philosopher's Path starts just outside the approach to Ginkakuji and follows a canal. It is especially beautiful during the cherry blossom season. The southern end of the path disappears into residential neighborhoods, so look for and follow the signs to Nanzenji.
evening illuminations that take place in fall. The temple has a long history, and there are a variety of buildings and a pond garden that visitors can explore. A court noble of the Heian Period (710-1185) donated his villa to a priest, who converted it into a temple under the name Zenrinji (lit. "temple in a calm grove"). At its founding, Zenrinji was part of the Shingon sect and its first head priest was a disciple of the great Kobo Daishi, the sect's founder. In the 11th century, Zenrinji had a popular head priest named Eikan, after whom the temple is popularly named Eikando (lit. "Eikan Hall"). Eikan is credited with acquiring the temple's main object of worship, an unusual statue of the Amida Buddha with his head turned sidewards. According to legend, Eikan was walking through the temple one day, when the statue, which was originally facing forward, turned its head towards the priest and talked to him. In the 13th century, a later head priest converted the temple to the Jodo sect (Pure Land sect), as he had been greatly impressed by the sect's founder Honen, whose mausoleum is located at the nearby Chionin Temple.
Zenrin-ji Eikando (永観堂, Eikandō), formally known as Zenrinji Temple, belongs to the Jodo sect of Japanese Buddhism. Located just north of the large temple complex of Nanzenji, Eikando is very famous for its autumn colors and the
Nanzenji Temple (南禅寺), whose spacious grounds are located at the base of Kyoto's forested Higashiyama mountains, is one of the most important Zen temples in all of Japan. It is the head temple of one of the schools within the Rinzai sect of Japanese Zen Buddhism and includes multiple subtemples, that make the already large complex of temple buildings even larger. The history of Nanzenji dates back to the mid 13th century, when the Emperor Kameyama built his retirement villa at the temple's present location and later converted it into a Zen temple. After its founding, Nanzenji grew steadily, but its buildings were all destroyed during the civil wars of the late Muromachi Period (1333-1573). The oldest of the current buildings were built after that period. Nanzenji's central temple grounds are open to the public free of charge, but separate fees apply for entering temple buildings and subtemples. Visitors will first come across Nanzenji's massive Sanmon entrance gate, which extends over the treetops. The gate was constructed in 1628 by the ruling Tokugawa clan for soldiers who died in the siege of Osaka Castle in 1615. Outside the Hojo (rock garden) visitors will come across a rather odd sight: a large brick aqueduct that passes through the temple grounds. Built during the Meiji Period (1868-1912), the aqueduct is part of a canal system that was constructed to carry water and goods between Kyoto and Lake Biwa in neighbouring Shiga Prefecture. Paths run alongside the canal that lead into the surrounding forest. Nanzenin Temple is one of Nanzenji's subtemples that is open to visitors. It is located just behind the aqueduct on the former location of Emperor Kameyama's original retirement villa, and includes a mausoleum of the emperor, a temple hall and a garden centered around a pond which becomes particularly attractive in autumn.
Nanzenji (1 hour) Check out the view from Sanmon Gate and the gardens at the main temple and smaller subtemples around the complex. Finish around the brick aqueduct at the rear of the temple grounds.
A few steps away is the Tenjuan Temple, which is also open to the public. It is a small subtemple dedicated to the Zen master who served Emperor Kameyama in his religious studies. Tenjuan has a main hall, gate and study which date back to the early 17th century. Tenjuan is noteworthy for its two gardens, a rock
garden and a pond garden, which are particularly attractive during autumn when they are illuminated in the evenings.
Gion District and Higashiyama District, and is often visited by tourists walking between the two districts. The shrine's main hall combines the honden (inner sanctuary) and haiden (offering hall) into a single building. In front of it stands a dance stage with hundreds of lanterns that get lit in the evenings. Each lantern bears the name of a local business in return for a donation.
Yasaka Shrine A top Shinto location, visit Yasaka Shrine to get a bit of a different flavor on your first day in Kyoto. Once called Gion, the bright vermillion buildings and gates welcome visitors, and the verdant natural setting offers paths and gardens ripe for exploration Yasaka Shrine also known as Gion Shrine, is one of the most famous shrines in Kyoto. Founded over 1350 years ago, the shrine is located between the popular
Gion Gion is the most traditional district in Kyoto, where young women still train to be Geisha while professionals put on artful performances in music and dance at local 'ochaya.' The streets of Gion, lined by restaurants, tea houses, and old
wooden mercantile houses make it a spot worth visiting for the culture, and staying for a bite to eat.
Kodaiji (高台寺, Kōdaiji) is an outstanding temple in Kyoto's Higashiyama District. It was established in 1606 in memory of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, one of Japan's greatest historical figures, by Hideyoshi's wife Nene who is also enshrined at the temple. Kodaiji belongs to the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism. Its main buildings were constructed in the lavish style of the era of Japan's unification with the financial support of Hideyoshi's successor Tokugawa Ieyasu. They feature richly decorated interiors and are surrounded by beautiful Zen gardens. Visitors can enter Kodaiji's main hall (Hojo), which was originally covered in lacquer and gold, but was rebuilt in a more modest style after it burned down in 1912. The building is surrounded on two sides by impressive gardens designed by leading contemporary masters. The gardens are lit up during special illumination shows in spring and autumn. One of the gardens is a rock garden consisting of a large field of raked gravel meant to represent the vast ocean. The other garden is an impressive tsukiyama style garden featuring a pond, man made hills, decorative rocks and beautiful pine and maple trees, the latter of which turn brilliant shades of red and orange during the autumn color season. Within this garden stands the Kaizando (memorial hall) where Nene would pray for Hideyoshi and which now enshrines wooden images of both of them.
Kodaiji (45 minutes)
Higashiyama Streets (1 hour) Upon exiting Kodaiji, continue south along the historic shopping streets of the Higashiyama District. Continue past the Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka Steps until you reach the approach to Kiyomizudera Temple. The Higashiyama District along the lower slopes of Kyoto's eastern mountains is one of the city's best preserved historic districts. It is a great place to experience traditional old Kyoto, especially between Kiyomizudera and Yasaka Shrine, where the narrow lanes, wooden buildings and traditional merchant shops invoke a feeling of the old capital city. Recent renovations to remove telephone poles and repave the streets have further improved the traditional feel of the district. The streets in Higashiyama are lined by small shops, cafes and restaurants which have been catering to tourists and pilgrims for centuries. These businesses retain their traditional design, although many have been renovated through the years, and they continue to serve customers today, selling local specialties such as Kiyomizu-yaki pottery, sweets, pickles, crafts and other souvenirs.
the oldest schools within Japanese Buddhism, but formed its own Kita Hosso sect in 1965. In 1994, the temple was added to the list of UNESCO world heritage sites. Kiyomizudera is best known for its wooden stage that juts out from its main hall, 13 meters above the hillside below. The stage affords visitors a nice view of the numerous cherry and maple trees below that erupt in a sea of color in spring and fall, as well as of the city of Kyoto in the distance. The main hall, which together with the stage was built without the use of nails, houses the temple's primary object of worship, a small statue of the eleven faced, thousand armed Kannon. Behind Kiyomizudera's main hall stands Jishu Shrine, a shrine dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking. In front of the shrine are two stones, placed 18 meters apart. Successfully finding your way from one to the other with your eyes closed is said to bring luck in finding love. You can also have someone guide you from one stone to the other, but that is interpreted to mean that an intermediary will be needed in your love life as well. The Otowa Waterfall is located at the base of Kiyomizudera's main hall. Its waters are divided into three separate streams, and visitors use cups attached to long poles to drink from them. Each stream's water is said to have a different benefit, namely to cause longevity, success at school and a fortunate love life. However, drinking from all three streams is considered greedy.
Kiyomizudera (1 hour) Check out Kiyomizudera Temple. Afterward, consider backtracking through Higashiyama to check out Gion or Pontocho for dinner. Kiyomizudera (清水寺, literally "Pure Water Temple") is one of the most celebrated temples of Japan. It was founded in 780 on the site of the Otowa Waterfall in the wooded hills east of Kyoto, and derives its name from the fall's pure waters. The temple was originally associated with the Hosso sect, one of
Sunday (Northern Kyoto) + (Central or Western Kyoto)
Half Day: Kinkakuji > Ryoanji > Ninnanji Afternoon Option 1: Tenryuji > Aarashiyama Afternoon Option 2: Nishiki Market > Nijo Castle > Kyoto Imperial Palace (closed on Sundays) > Pontocho
Map: https://goo.gl/KZKiEg
Kinkaku-ji (The Golden Pavilion)12 Kinkakuji (金閣寺, Golden Pavilion) is a Zen temple in northern Kyoto whose top two floors are completely covered in gold leaf. Formally known as Rokuonji, the temple was the retirement villa of the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, and 12
Kinkaku-ji Info & most other detailed info from: http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3908.html
according to his will it became a Zen temple of the Rinzai sect after his death in 1408. Kinkakuji was the inspiration for the similarly named Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion), built by Yoshimitsu's grandson, Ashikaga Yoshimasa, on the other side of the city a few decades later. Kinkakuji is an impressive structure built overlooking a large pond, and is the only building left of Yoshimitsu's former retirement complex. It has burned down numerous times throughout its history including twice during the Onin War, a civil war that destroyed much of Kyoto; and once again more recently in 1950 when it was set on fire by a fanatic monk. The present structure was rebuilt in 1955. Kinkakuji was built to echo the extravagant Kitayama culture that developed in the wealthy aristocratic circles of Kyoto during Yoshimitsu's times. Each floor represents a different style of architecture. The first floor is built in the Shinden style used for palace buildings during the Heian Period, and with its natural wood pillars and white plaster walls contrasts yet complements the gilded upper stories of the pavilion. Statues of the Shaka Buddha (historical Buddha) and Yoshimitsu are stored in the first floor. Although it is not possible to enter the pavilion, the statues can be viewed from across the pond if you look closely, as the front windows of the first floor are usually kept open. The second floor is built in the Bukke style used in samurai residences, and has its exterior completely covered in gold leaf. Inside is a seated Kannon Bodhisattva surrounded by statues of the Four Heavenly Kings; however, the statues are not shown to the public. Finally, the third and uppermost floor is built in the style of a Chinese Zen Hall, is gilded inside and out, and is capped with a golden phoenix. Kinkaku-ji is open daily from 9am to 5pm. Admission is ¥400.
Ryoanji Ryoanji Temple (龍安寺, Ryōanji) is the site of Japan's most famous rock garden, which attracts hundreds of visitors every day. Originally an aristocrat's villa during the Heian Period, the site was converted into a Zen temple in 1450 and belongs to the Myoshinji school of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism, whose head temple stands just a kilometer to the south. As for the history of Ryoanji's famous rock garden, the facts are less certain. The garden's date of construction is unknown and there are a number of speculations regarding its designer. The garden consists of a rectangular plot of pebbles surrounded by low earthen walls, with 15 rocks laid out in small groups on patches of moss. An interesting feature of the garden's design is that from any vantage point at least one of the rocks is always hidden from the viewer. Along with its origins, the meaning of the garden is unclear. Some believe that the garden represents the common theme of a tiger carrying cubs across a pond or of islands in a sea, while others claim that the garden represents an abstract concept like infinity. Because the garden's meaning has not been made explicit, it is up to each viewer to find the meaning for him/herself. To make this easier, a visit in the early morning is recommended when crowds are usually smaller than later during the day. Ryoanji's garden is viewed from the Hojo, the head priest's former residence. Besides the stone garden, the Hojo features some paintings on the sliding doors (fusuma) of its tatami rooms, and a couple of smaller gardens on the rear side of the building. In one of the gardens there is a round stone trough that
cleverly incorporates its square water basin into a Zen inscription, which students of kanji may be able to appreciate. The Hojo is connected to the Kuri, the former temple kitchen, which now serves as the temple's main entrance.
--------------------- Half Day Option 1 --------------------Arashiyama Getting There Take a local train (see image below) to get into Arashiyama. Alternatively, takie the local bus or taxi ($15-20).
Ninnanji Ninnaji (仁和寺) is one of the many great temples in Kyoto which are listed as World Heritage Sites. It is the head temple of the Omuro School of the Shingon sect of Buddhism and was founded in 888 by the reigning emperor. Over many centuries, a member of the Imperial Family used to serve as Ninnaji's head priest, and the temple was also known as Omuro Imperial Palace. Due to the many wars and fires that ravaged Kyoto throughout its history, none of the buildings from the temple's foundation in the 9th century still survive. The oldest buildings date back to the beginning of the Edo Period in the early 1600s, including the main hall (Kondo), the Kannon Hall, the Niomon front gate, the Chumon inner gate and the five storied pagoda. The highlight of a visit to Ninnaji is the Goten, the former residence of the head priest in the southwestern corner of the temple complex. Built in the style of an imperial palace, the graceful buildings are connected with each other by covered corridors, feature elegantly painted sliding doors (fusuma) and are surrounded by beautiful rock and pond gardens.
Aarashiyama Arashiyama (嵐山) is a pleasant, touristy district in the western outskirts of Kyoto. The area has been a popular destination since the Heian Period (7941185), when nobles would enjoy its natural setting. Arashiyama is particularly
popular during the cherry blossom and fall color seasons. The Togetsukyo Bridge is Arashiyama's well known, central landmark. Many small shops, restaurants and other attractions are found nearby, including Tenryuji Temple, Arashiyama's famous bamboo groves and pleasure boats that are available for rent on the river.
Tenryu-ji Temple Tenryuji (天龍寺, Tenryūji) is the most important temple in Kyoto's Arashiyama district. It was ranked first among the city's five great Zen temples, and is now registered as a world heritage site. Tenryuji is the head temple of its own school within the Rinzai Zen sect of Japanese Buddhism. Tenryuji was built in 1339 by the ruling shogun Ashikaga Takauji. Takauji dedicated the temple to Emperor Go-Daigo, who had just passed away. The two important historic figures used to be allies until Takauji turned against the emperor in a struggle for supremacy over Japan. By building the temple, Takauji intended to appease the former emperor's spirits. Tenryuji's buildings, were repeatedly lost in fires and wars over the centuries, and most of the current halls, including the main hall (Hojo), drawing hall (Shoin) and temple kitchen (Kuri) with its distinctive small tower, date from the relatively recent Meiji Period (1868-1912). Unlike the temple buildings, Tenryuji's garden survived the centuries in its original form. Created by the famous garden designer Muso Soseki, who also designed the gardens of Kokedera and other important temples, the beautiful
landscape garden features a central pond surrounded by rocks, pine trees and the forested Arashiyama mountains.
Bamboo Groves You can access it directly from the main street of Arashiyama, a little to the north of the entrance to Tenryu-ji Temple, but it’s best paired with a visit to that temple (exit the north gate, take a left and you’ll be in the grove in no time). The walking paths that cut through the bamboo groves make for a nice walk or bicycle ride. The groves are particularly attractive when there is a light wind and the tall bamboo stalks sway gently back and forth. The bamboo has been used to manufacture various products, such as baskets, cups, boxes and mats at local workshops for centuries.
--------------------- Half Day Option 2 --------------------Central Kyoto
seasonal foods and Kyoto specialties, such as Japanese sweets, pickles, dried seafood and sushi. Nishiki Market has a pleasant, but busy atmosphere that is inviting to those who want to explore the variety of culinary delights that Kyoto is famous for. The stores found throughout the market range in size from small narrow stalls to larger two story shops. Most specialize in a particular type of food, and almost everything sold at the market is locally produced and procured. Some of the shops freely give out samples or sell sample dishes and skewers meant to be eaten then and there. There are also a few small restaurants and food stands selling ready made food. A few are sit down establishments, although some consist of no more than a couple of stools and a bar. They usually specialize in one type of food, and are often attached to a store of the same specialty.
Nishiki Market > Nijo Castle > Kyoto Imperial Palace > Pontocho
The market has a history of several centuries, and many stores have been operated by the same families for generations. It all started as a fish wholesale district, with the first shop opening around 1310. A larger variety of shops moved in later, and the area changed from a wholesale market to retail. Today it remains an important market for Kyoto and is often packed with locals and tourists alike.
Nishiki Market Nishiki Market (錦市場, Nishiki Ichiba) is a narrow, five block long shopping street lined by more than one hundred shops and restaurants. Known as "Kyoto's Kitchen", this lively retail market specializes in all things food related, like fresh seafood, produce, knives and cookware, and is a great place to find
Nijo Castle Nijo Castle (二条城, Nijōjō) was built in 1603 as the Kyoto residence of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Edo Period (1603-1867). His grandson Iemitsu completed the castle's palace buildings 23 years later and further expanded the castle by adding a five story castle keep.
After the Tokugawa Shogunate fell in 1867, Nijo Castle was used as an imperial palace for a while before being donated to the city and opened up to the public as a historic site. Its palace buildings are arguably the best surviving examples of castle palace architecture of Japan's feudal era, and the castle was designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1994. Nijo Castle can be divided into three areas: the Honmaru (main circle of defense), the Ninomaru (secondary circle of defense) and some gardens that encircle the Honmaru and Ninomaru. The entire castle grounds and the Honmaru are surrounded by stone walls and moats. Visitors to Nijo Castle enter the castle grounds through a large gate in the east. English audio guides are available for rent (500 yen) at a kiosk just inside the gate. Venturing further into the castle will bring you to the Chinese style Karamon Gate, the entrance to the Ninomaru (secondary circle of defense), where the castle's main attraction, the Ninomaru Palace is located.. The Ninomaru Palace served as the residence and office of the shogun during his visits to Kyoto. Surviving in its original form, the palace consists of multiple separate buildings that are connected with each other by corridors with so called nightingale floors, as they squeak when stepped upon as a security measure against intruders. The palace rooms are tatami mat covered and feature elegantly decorated ceilings and beautifully painted sliding doors (fusuma).
Pontocho Pontocho (先斗町, Pontochō) is one of Kyoto's most atmospheric dining areas. It is a narrow alley running from Shijo-dori to Sanjo-dori, one block west of Kamogawa River. The alley is packed with restaurants on both sides offering a wide range of dining options from inexpensive yakitori to traditional and modern Kyoto cuisine, foreign cuisine and highly exclusive establishments that require the right connections and a fat wallet.
The tour route passes by multiple waiting and audience rooms. Only the highest ranked visitors were allowed all the way into the main audience room where the shogun would sit on an elevated floor, flanked by bodyguards hidden in closets. Lower ranked visitors would be allowed only as far as the adjoining rooms without direct view of the shogun. The innermost rooms consisted of offices and living chambers, the latter of which were only accessible to the shogun and his female attendants.
Business hours and closing days of the restaurants, bars and shops along Pontocho vary by establishment, but most places are usually open from around 17:00 to 23:00. Some also open for lunch. An increasing number of establishments offer English menus.
Outside of the Ninomaru Palace extends the Ninomaru Garden, a traditional Japanese landscape garden with a large pond, ornamental stones and manicured pine trees. Not including the palace here because Day 2 is our Sunday, and the palace is closed on Sunday. See Day 3 for info.
Most of the restaurants along the eastern side of the alley overlook Kamogawa River. From May to September, many of them build temporary platforms over the flowing water where patrons can dine out in the open air. Known as kawayuka, this type of dining was developed as a way to beat the summer heat and is a great way to try some traditional Kyoto cuisine while taking in the cooling effects of the flowing water and the lively summer atmosphere. Advance reservations for kawayuka are recommended especially on Fridays and Saturdays.
Monday (Southern Kyoto + anything missed)
name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. The cost starts around 400,000 yen for a small sized gate and increases to over one million yen for a large gate. The hike to the summit of the mountain and back takes about 2-3 hours, however, visitors are free to walk just as far as they wish before turning back. Along the way, there are multiple smaller shrines with stacks of miniature torii gates that were donated by visitors with smaller budgets. There are also a few restaurants along the way, which offer locally themed dishes such as Inari Sushi and Kitsune Udon ("Fox Udon"), both featuring pieces of aburaage (fried tofu), said to be a favorite food of foxes.
Fushimi-Inari-Taisha Shrine Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社, Fushimi Inari Taisha) is an important Shinto shrine in southern Kyoto. It is famous for its thousands of vermilion torii gates, which straddle a network of trails behind its main buildings. The trails lead into the wooded forest of the sacred Mount Inari, which stands at 233 meters and belongs to the shrine grounds.
After about a 30-45 minute ascent and a gradual decrease in the density of torii gates, visitors will reach the Yotsutsuji intersection roughly half way up the mountain, where some nice views over Kyoto can be enjoyed, and the trail splits into a circular route to the summit. Many hikers only venture as far as here, as the trails do not offer much variation beyond this point and the gate density decreases further.
Fushimi Inari is the most important of several thousands of shrines dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice. Foxes are thought to be Inari's messengers, resulting in many fox statues across the shrine grounds. Fushimi Inari Shrine has ancient origins, predating the capital's move to Kyoto in 794. While the primary reason most foreign visitors come to Fushimi Inari Shrine is to explore the mountain trails, the shrine buildings themselves are also attractive and worth a visit. At the shrine's entrance stands the Romon Gate, which was donated in 1589 by the famous leader Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Behind stands the shrine's main building (Honden) and various auxiliary buildings. At the very back of the shrine's main grounds is the entrance to the torii gate covered hiking trail, which starts with two dense, parallel rows of gates called Senbon Torii ("thousands of torii gates"). The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's
Kyoto Imperial Palace The Kyoto Imperial Palace (京都御所, Kyōto Gosho) used to be the residence of Japan's Imperial Family until 1868, when the emperor and capital were moved from Kyoto to Tokyo. It is located in the spacious Kyoto Imperial Park (京都御 苑, Kyōto Gyoen), an attractive park in the center of the city that also encompasses the Sento Imperial Palace and a few other attractions.
The current Imperial Palace was reconstructed in 1855 after it had burnt down and moved around town repeatedly over the centuries. The complex is enclosed by long walls and consists of several gates, halls and gardens. The enthronement ceremonies of Emperors Taisho and Showa were still held in the palace's main hall, but the present Emperor's ceremony took place at the Tokyo Imperial Palace. The palace grounds can be entered only on guided tours (in English or Japanese) held by the Imperial Household Agency. Tours take about one hour and lead past the buildings and gardens, but none of the buildings can be entered. Advance reservations are mandatory and can be made online or at the Imperial Agency Office, which is also located within the Kyoto Imperial Park. To book a tour, you need to apply in advance with your passport at the Imperial Household Agency Office in the northwestern corner of Kyoto Imperial Park. Reservations are often possible for the same day. The office is open Monday to Friday from 8:45 to 12:00 and from 13:00 to 17:00. Free tours of Kyoto Imperial Palace are held several times daily in English and Japanese. No tours are held on Sundays and national holidays. Most Saturdays are also unavailable. Additionally, a small number of tour spots are available for reservation over the agency's website http://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/order/index_EN.html however, these often get booked out far in advance. Online reservations must be completed several days before the intended visit.
Other Kyoto Info http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2005.html
Kyo-Ryori Japanese cuisine doesn't get more refined than Kyo-ryori, or "Kyoto cuisine." For a quintessential Kyo-ryori experience, head to Gion and the 100-year-old Minokou restaurant, where they do an 11-course Kyo-ryori dinner for 짜15,600, as well as lunchtime sampler sets presented in shiny lacquer ware bento boxes for 짜4,000. Alternatively, try the equally traditional Kinobu, where they have a seven-course dinner for 짜12,000 and a 짜4,200 lunchtime sampler. Tea Ceremony Zen in a tea cup. The cleansing of the tea utensils, the gentle bow as you receive your cup, the three clockwise turns before you take a sip: it's not difficult to see how deeply rooted the slow and graceful movements of the tea ceremony are in Zen Buddhism. Chado or sado, as the ceremony is known, is by no means limited to Kyoto, but with the city's rich Zen connections, it is an ideal place to experience it. Try visiting En, a small teahouse in Gion with tatami tearooms and English-speaking Kimono-clad servers. You'll find it next to Chionin Temple, a short walk from the Chionmae bus stop on route number 206 from Kyoto Station.
Osaka_____________________________
Koyasan___________________________ Tuesday
Wednesday
Osaka Koyasan
Koyasan Tokyo
We were in Osaka for the night and walked along the river to see the Dotonbori. Definitely a worthwhile sight! I wish we had seen the castle in the city‌
ď Œ Next time! Mount Koya (Koyasan) is the center of Shingon Buddhism, an important Buddhist sect which was introduced to Japan in 805 by Kobo Daishi (also known as Kukai), one of Japan's most significant religious figures. A small, secluded temple town has developed around the sect's headquarters that Kobo Daishi built on Koyasan's wooded mountaintop. It is also the site of Kobo Daishi's mausoleum and the start and end point of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage. Danjo Garan is one of the two most sacred sites in Koyasan. In the 9th century, Koyasan was founded on this very ground. At that time Kobo Daishi held a groundbreaking ceremony and then dedicated his life to the construction of Danjo Garan. This sacred area consists of nearly twenty different structures including the magnificent Konpon Daito. If one can envision the entirety of
Danjo Garan, the design of the area and its buildings combine to form an image that represents the Womb Realm Mandala. Kongobuji Temple --•Kongobuji was originally constructed in 1593 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi to commemorate the death of his mother. Later it was merged with a neighboring temple and reorganized into the head temple of Shingon Buddhism, the sect introduced to Japan by Kobo Daishi in 805 and headquartered on Koyasan. After entering the building and taking off their shoes visitors will first come across the Ohiroma room which was used for important rituals and religious ceremonies.
Getting There13
Arrive at Namba Subway/Train Station14 15 Purchase a 2-day Koyasan Free Pass for Y2780 which includes round trip by train to Koyasan, cable car tramway from Gokurakubashi to Koyasan station and unlimited bus rides within Koyasan for 2 days. Buy at Major Nankai railway stations and travel agencies in the Osaka area. 2. Walk the length of Namba station (1 km or more, for sure ) to the Nankai-Koya train platforms. 3. Take the Nankai-Koya train to Gokuraku-bashi. 13
http://www.nankaikoya.jp/en/stations/easily.html http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Asia/Japan/Wakayama_ken/Koyasan-974135/Transportation-Koyasan-TG-C-1.html 15 http://www.nankaikoya.jp/en/stations/ 14
4. There is an express and a second one that requires a transfer at Hashimoto. You might have to transfer at Hashimoto station, but it's a small station and an easy transfer. Once you get out of the city the ride becomes very scenic, with many dramatic peaks and valleys and lush foliage (maybe dependent on time of year). The cable car to Koyasan is usually included in the ticket price, and there are signs at the station directing you to the car's platform. 5. At Gokuraku-bashi you transfer to the Funicular which takes you to Koyasan Eki-mae 6. At Koyasan Eki-mae you transfer to a bus. Before boarding the bus they will ask you what hotel or ryokan you are staying and will let you know what bus stop to get off at (We are #8). 7. The bus will take you down a 'bus only' road to the Koyasan entrance, and then to the first bus stop. 8. At this point you will wonder how the Buddhist Monks ever got to the top of Mount Koya.
Lodging
Sights16
Some temples in Japan, especially in popular pilgrimage destinations, offer temple lodgings (shukubo) to visiting pilgrims and tourists. Temple lodgings offer an excellent chance to get a taste of the simple, traditional lifestyle of Buddhist monks. Koyasan is one of the best places in Japan to experience a night at a temple, with more than 50 temples in town serving as shukubo. Unlike in other parts of Japan, the temples on Koyasan are accustomed to foreign guests and can be reserved relatively easily through Japanese Guest Houses, Japanican or by email or fax via the tourist association. The typical cost for a stay is between 9,000 and 15,000 yen per person and night, including dinner and breakfast. Most temples accept cash only. Temple lodgings typically offer private, traditional Japanese rooms with tatami floors, sliding doors (fusuma) and shared toilets and sinks. Bedding is provided in form of futons that are spread on the tatami floor during the night. During winter gas heaters provide warmth. A small number of temples go beyond these average standards and offer overnight stays that resemble more those enjoyed at a mid-range ryokan with private washrooms and lavish meals. Try to arrive at the temple no later than 17:00, as dinner is usually served around 18:00. Dinner and breakfast feature vegetarian monks' cuisine (shojin ryori) with specialties such as konyaku (devils tongue jelly), yuba (tofu skin) and koyadofu (freeze dried tofu). Guests are also invited to participate in morning prayers which typically start around 6:00am, last for about 30-45 minutes and are followed by breakfast around 7:00. During your stay you may also view the temple's cultural treasures, halls and garden, as well as enjoy its communal, gender-separated baths.
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http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4900.html
Regardless of which approach you choose, both paths meet up at the Gokusho Offering Hall which lies near a row of statues depicting Jizo, a popular Bodhisattva that looks after children, travelers, and the souls of the deceased. Visitors make offerings and throw water at the statues, known as Mizumuke Jizo (Water Covered Jizo) to pray for departed family members.
Okunoin Temple.17 (Begin walk at 6pm) Okunoin is the site of the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi (also known as Kukai), the founder of Shingon Buddhism and one of the most revered persons in the religious history of Japan. Instead of having died, Kobo Daishi is believed to rest in eternal meditation as he awaits Miroku Nyorai (Maihreya), the Buddha of the Future, and provides relief to those who ask for salvation in the meantime. Okunoin is one of the most sacred places in Japan and a popular pilgrimage spot. The Ichinohashi Bridge (first bridge) marks the traditional entrance to Okunoin, and visitors should bow to pay respect to Kobo Daishi before crossing it. Across the bridge starts Okunoin's cemetery, the largest in Japan, with over 200,000 tombstones lining the almost two kilometer long approach to Kobo Daishi's mausoleum. Wishing to be close to Kobo Daishi in death to receive salvation, many people, including prominent monks and feudal lords, have had their tombstones erected here over the centuries. A second, shorter approach to Okunoin, which is used by the majority of visitors these days, starts at the Okunoin-mae bus stop and cuts the walk to the mausoleum in half (to slightly under a kilometer). This alternative route leads through a more recent addition to the cemetery with modern tombstones by individuals, associations and companies, including some surprising ones, such as a pest control company's memorial to all the termites that their products have been exterminating. 17
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4901.html
The Gobyonohashi Bridge crosses a stream behind the Mizumuke Jizo that separates the innermost grounds of the temple from the rest of Okunoin. Visitors should again bow to Kobo Daishi before crossing, and photography, food and drink are forbidden beyond this point. To the left of the bridge are a group of wooden markers placed in the stream as a memorial to unborn children. A few meters past the bridge on the left side of the path lies the Miroku Stone, housed in a small cage. Visitors are challenged to lift the stone from the cage's lower platform to an upper platform with only one hand. It is believed that the stone feels lighter to good people and heavier to bad people, and that it can provide a connection to the Miroku Bodhisattva. Torodo Hall (Hall of Lamps) is Okunoin's main hall for worship, built in front of Kobo Daishi's mausoleum. Inside the hall are more than 10,000 lanterns, which were donated by worshipers and are kept eternally lit. In the hall's basement are 50,000 tiny statues that have been donated to Okunoin on the occasion of the 1150th anniversary of Kobo Daishi's entrance into eternal meditation in 1984. Behind Torodo Hall is Kobo Daishi's Mausoleum (Gobyo), the site of his eternal meditation. Visitors come from all over to pray to Kobo Daishi, and it is not uncommon to see pilgrims chanting sutras here. Some guidebooks suggest visiting Okunoin's graveyard at night. A night time visit indeed provides a special atmosphere that is quite different from that of a day time visit, but note that some parts of the path are poorly lit. It is possible to venture all the way to the mausoleum during the night, but neither the Torodo Hall nor any of the the other offering halls are open. Also, please
behave respectfully and keep in mind that photography, food and drink are prohibited beyond the Gobyonohashi Bridge.
Kongobuji Temple Kongobuji was originally constructed in 1593 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi to commemorate the death of his mother. Later it was merged with a neighboring temple and reorganized into the head temple of Shingon Buddhism, the sect introduced to Japan by Kobo Daishi in 805 and headquartered on Koyasan. After entering the building, taking off their shoes and paying the admission fee, visitors will first come across the Ohiroma Room which was used for important rituals and religious ceremonies. The room's gilded sliding doors (fusuma) are adorned with cranes painted by Kano Tanyu. Next to the Ohiroma Room are the Plum and Willow Rooms, named after the paintings on their sliding doors. Toyotomi Hidetsugu committed ritual suicide in the Willow Room as ordered by his uncle Hideyoshi. A long corridor then leads to a more recently added wing of the temple complex, where visitors are invited to enjoy some tea and a cookie in a large tatami hall. An adjacent building features rooms whose sliding doors (fusuma) are decorated by 20th century paintings of seasonal flowers and the story of Kobo Daishi, his journey to China and his founding of Koyasan. Behind the building is the Banryutei Rock Garden, the largest rock garden in Japan. Built in 1984, its large rocks from Shikoku, the birthplace of Kobo Daishi, represent a pair of dragons emerging from a sea of clouds.
Upon returning to Kongobuji's main building, visitors pass by the extravagant Jodannoma Audience Room which was used for receiving visiting dignitaries. The room's walls and sliding doors are gilded in gold and the ceilings feature carved flowers. The visit ends in Kongobuji's kitchen with its enormous hearth and kamado stoves large enough to feed up to 2000 people.
Garan Legend has it that Kobo Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism, threw his sankosho (a double ended, three pronged Buddhist ceremonial tool) from China, where he had been studying, toward Japan. Back in Japan, while in search of a place to headquarter his new religion, he came across his sankosho stuck in the branches of a pine tree on Koyasan and started construction of the Garan, Koyasan's central temple complex, there. The pine tree, that caught the sankosho, is still growing there. The two most prominent buildings of the Garan are the Kondo Hall and the huge Konpon Daito Pagoda. The Kondo Hall is a large wooden temple hall where major ceremonies are held. The building has burned down multiple times over the centuries, and the current hall dates back to 1932. It enshrines an image of Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of medicine and healing.
Next to the Kondo Hall stands the vermilion Konpon Daito Pagoda, a 45 meter tall, two tiered, tahoto style pagoda. A statue of the Dainichi Nyorai (Cosmic Buddha, also known as Variocana), the central Buddha in Shingon Buddhism, stands in the middle of the pagoda's interior and is surrounded by statues and paintings on pillars, which together make up a rare three dimensional mandala (a metaphysical map of the cosmos). Mandala are usually two dimensional paintings. Kobo Daishi started building the Kondo Hall and Daito Pagoda, however he was not able to finish them himself. His successors completed the construction of the two main structures and also expanded the grounds of the Garan with multiple additional halls and pagodas over time. Among these are the Toto (eastern pagoda), Saito (western pagoda), Miedo (founder's hall) and Koya Myojin Shrine, which enshrines Mount Koya's local kami (Shinto deities).
Heading Out
Tokyo______________________________
Communication & Money Friend’s recommendation:
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday
Sunday
Koyasan
Tokyo
Tokyo
Tokyo
Tokyo
Tokyo
Tokyo
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NYC
“Rent a mobile phone at the airport from Softbank when you come down the escalator to the Narita express after you get your bags. Text messages can only be sent to people with the same phone provider. Use mobile email instead of sms. Then, go to the counter at the Narita express and ask for the SUICA + NEX package. This gives you ¥2000 FREE on the tokyosubway in addition to your Narita Express ticket, and all you have to do is show your passport. Most people don't know this. Japan post office ATMS accept international credit cards. Get cash at Citibank in Roppongi, Hiroo, and Otemachi. Get out more cash than you think you need. It's a cash culture and things are ¥¥¥ especially with the yen so strong now. No tipping, no bargaining. The price is the price.
Over 500 years old, the city of Tokyo grew from the modest fishing village of Edo (江戸). The city only truly began to grow when it became the seat of the Tokugawa shogunate in 1603. While the emperor ruled in name from Kyoto, the true power was concentrated in the hands of the Tokugawa shogun in Edo. After the Meiji restoration in 1868, during which the Tokugawa family lost its influence, the emperor and the imperial family moved here from Kyoto, and the city was re-named to its current name, Tokyo. The metropolitan center of the country, Tokyo houses 13 Million residents, and 30 million plus in the Tokyo metropolitan area.18
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http://wikitravel.org/en/Tokyo
Get a suica/pasmo card with your name on it for using the Tokyo Metro, if for some reason you don't get a suica at the airport. This can be done in the machines at the station, and is used like London's Oyster card and Hong Kong's Octopus card. Also used for buses and occasionally taxis and vending machines”
Getting In
Ways to Explore 1. By Attraction. We can choose the attractions/ museums / restaurants that interest us the most and schedule our day around seeing those places. 2. By Neighborhood. We can dedicate our time to exploring specific neighborhoods at length. Rather than focus on the ‘top attractions’ we can build our schedule around areas we want to get to know, and then find relevant resources / tours to get to know that area. 3. By Tour Guide. On occasion my least favorite because you are limited to a pre-set schedule that may or may not overlap with our interests. There do seem to be great bike tours that could serve as good foundation before going off on our own in Tokyo.
Deconstructing Tokyo
Top Neighborhoods19
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Marunoichi o JR Tokyo Station, Souvenirs, o Nearby: Imperial palace, East Garden Ginza o The “5th ave” of Tokyo o Nearby: Imperial Palace, Tsukiji Market, Kabuki-za (famous theater for Japanese Kabuki drama) Akihabara o Tech town, electronic shops, mecca of geek culture Roppongi o Foreigners, nightlife, restaurants o Nearby: Roppongi Hills, Mori Art Museum, Suntory Museum of Art Ueno o The central park of Tokyo, “old” Tokyo o Nearby: Tokyo National Museum, Ueno Park, Ameyoko (street market) Shibuya o Shibuya crossing, “Times Sq” of Tokyo o Nearby: Meiji Shrine, Shibuya 109 (famous mall), karaoke bars, and izakaya pubs Harajuku o Harajuku culture, best trend-setting street fashion o Nearby: Takeshita Street (best on Sun), Shinjuku o Great food, Tokyo’s largest neighborhood, everyday culture, business district, nightlife, Kabuki-chi (red light district) o Nearby: Golden Gai, Gyoen National Garden, Tokyo Metropolitan Gov. Building (free observation deck with best views of Tokyo), Omoide Yokocho (old Tokyo, memory alley with traditional cheap eateries), Robot Restaurant, New York Bar, Asakusa o Once the pleasure district of Edo, traditional, everyday culture o Nearby: Senso-ji Temple, Kaminarimon (giant lantern), Nakamise Dori (pricy souveniers), Tokyo Skytree Yurakucho
http://www.japan-talk.com/jt/new/tokyo-neighborhoods
o
A downtown business area that hasn't changed much since just after WWII. Known for its tiny restaurants jammed under train tracks.
Potential Itinerary Wednesday – 26 Check In Shinjuku / Shibuya Thursday– 27 Akihabara Tokyo Imperial Palace Asakusa (Sensoji) Tokyo National Museum (+Ueno) Friday– 28 Tsukiji Market (http://www.japanican.com/en/tour/review/CUL220_/ ) Ginza Meiji Shrine Saturday– 29 Roppongi Tokyo Tower Sunday– 30 Harakuju Optional Visits Edo Tokyo Museum
Friend’s Verbatim Notes & Suggestions Wednesday Shinjuku: Dinner + drinks at New York bar.
Thursday Akihabara / Shinjuku – I don’t remember which is which. Both are cool neighborhoods to walk around. One is the “electronics district” with tech we’ll see in America in ten years. The Golden Gai area of Shinjuku… you should definitely check this out. It is a place that is like 2-3 square blocks with like 100 little bars, each uniquely themed with a capacity of about 6 people. The opposite of Robot Restaurant, but so so dope. You can find a place that only plays Queen…or a place that only plays reggae… Roppongi (Tisch this is Karo - you can avoid this neighborhood. This is where American go to try to pick up Japanese chicks. But otherwise it’s dirty and like times square so avoid if you are with your girlfriend). Shibuya: home of the largest pedestrian crossing in the world (shown in Lost in Translation); very funky area where a lot of young people hang out – wander around and get lost here. Harajuki & shibuya –right by the train station in one of those there’s a statue with a little dog. (awesome backstory: google it). Just sit there for a while to people watch – all the teenagers say “meet me by the little dog” and it’s cool to watch all the people. Daikanyama Area: Lots of cool design stores, cool clothing, good to look around and do some retail reconnoissance. I'd go to the Daikanyama T-Site (http://tsite.jp/daikanyama/storeservice/tsite-en.html). It is a media store, built by the equivalent of the
founder of Barnes & Noble in Japan. But the T-Site is a campus of four buildings that artfully sell the best media of our parents generation (Art books, artisanal magazines, beautiful pens, CDs -- yes CDs). On the top/2nd floor of the place, there is a communal lounge, which is sort of like SoHo house but it's open to the public. It's used for reading, doing work, and hanging out. So so beautiful. Other than the T-Site, I'd go to stores like APC, and go to the row of stores (equivalent of 5th Ave), and look at places like Martin Mergiela. There's a whole set of amazing retail spots in Daikanyama, including Saturday's Surf Shop, which has a great wooden deck for coffee and hanging out. Meiji Shrine, which is quiet and beautiful – sometimes you’ll see wedding ceremonies here. Then go back the way you came to the other side of the station and walk down Takeshita-Dori – crazy street full of shopping and high schoolers. See Gwen Stefani’s “harajuku girls” on Sundays – crazy Japanese teenagers dressed crazy. Meiji Jingu Shrine: This shrine is in the middle of Harajuku, and honestly shouldn't be missed if you want to experience traditional Japanese culture. The grounds are incredibly peaceful and stunning. When you get to the actual shrine, don't forget to go to the little hut on the left before you enter, and as you leave, to waft the incense smoke at your chest/face. It is a sign of respect and it "cleanses" you. You should remember to do this at any shrines you visit. If you don't you will probably be attacked by pissed off locals. Don't forget to fill out a prayer card to leave at the shrine.
Friday Breakfast at Tsukiji fish market. Party all night. Go to fish auction at 6am. Then eat the freshest sushi you’ve ever seen for breakfast. Absolute #1 best thing to do in Tokyo. tsukiji (pronounced skee-jee) market –Go there around 4:30 or 5:00 and you can see the tuna auction – it’s really cool to see right next to tsukiji after you watch the tuna auction go get sushi in the morning. It’s the freshest, best sushi you’ll
ever taste. If you walk out of where the tuna auction is, right to the side is where this flea market is and in there are tons of sushi restaurants. Robot restaurant is so crazy and amazing. If you can out it up with, I'd suggest it.
Stores
Muji - bicycle rental and minimal design store in Yurakcho, near Ginza Bonjour Records - In Daikanyama, one of the best record stores in Japan(/world?). A must visit. +/-0 - Naoto Fukasawa's (Design Brain of Muji) upscale store in Aoyama. Good inspiration. Northface store. The APC store. Beams
Cafes, restaurants, bars: Gogyo - 西麻布五行 - Burnt miso ramen in Nishi Azabu. The single most important culinary experience of my life. Get the burnt miso ramen and large sized chicken wings. www.ramenate.com/2010/03/nishiazabu-gogyo.html pointage - Excellent restaurant / cafe/ bakery in Azabu juban. Google for address. My standard spot for nursing hangovers. Good coffee. Maisen - An excellent don katsu experience in Jingumae, in an old converted bath house Tontontezi - Excellent korean BBQ joint across from Tokyo Midtown in Roppongi. In the basement. Their logo is a smiling pig:http://www.tontontezi.com/sub/sub02_3.php
My Humble House - Singaporean chic restaurant with reasonable prices in Ginza. Google for exact address. Singaporean restaurant in between Roppongi Hills and Azabu Juban. If you're on the Azabu Juban main street heading north towards food magazine/Roppongi hills, take a left right before food magazine and it will be there on the corner on your left. Great food. Cafe Michaelangelo in Daikanyama - Good Italian brunch and coffee. Should be part of your daikanyama exploration. The Don Katsu restaurant in the basement (b2) of Roppongi Hills. I don't even know the name of this place but I went there all the time. Excellent and reasonably priced Kaiten (conveyerbelt) sushi on the main street in Omote Sando. Harbs in Roppongi hills for lunch set: sandwich + coffee + cake http://www.harbs.co.jp/harbs/ Junkadelic in Nakameguro area. Great margaritas and mexican food. And finally, I think I sent this before but "Library These" in Nishi Azabu http://these-jp.comTurn right when heading west on Roppongi Dori after the main Nishi-Azabu crossing. Close to the Gogyo ramen joint and close to a Cohiba cigar bar if that's your style. Theres one more Okinawan restaurant in Shibuya called Tama - Very good. Clubs Le Baron de Paris - My standard night spot. Has a sister club in Paris. Naughty old-tyme erotic imagery on the walls, generally good music (minimal, house, electro) and interesting patrons. lebaron.co.jp
Womb - Biggest international DJs come through here. Gildas and Masaya, Sven Vath, Steve Aoki, etc. On a good night it's a raaaager. http://womb.co.jp Warehouse 702 - A cool techno and house club in Azabu Juban, a stones throw from my apartment FTV bar - In Azabu Juban next to warehouse 702 I went here once, it's overpriced and filled with beautiful people. You've got to be out of ideas to go here. Gas panic - Roppongi joint popular with military guys looking to score. 500 yen drinks, hip hop music, and trashy, trashy people. Also fun sometimes. Feria in Roppongi is a pretty raging club but overpriced and filled with boring finance types. Keep your distance unless you're rolling deep. Come to think of it there are actually a lot of clubs, like alife (Nishi Azabu), Muse, A.I. (Roppongi), Cross (Nishi Azabu), PCA (Akasaka), PCM(Marunouchi), A971 (Tokyo Midtown - Roppongi).
Other As far as onsen goes, go to "super onsen" in Chiba. It's the most reasonably priced and good expansive onsen experience near tokyo. A little bit of a schlep, past disneyland. Tenzen onsen in Hakone is more natural and very good. Eat a lot of Oonigiri, or "hand rolls" these are found in all convenience stores. I like tuna mayo and salmon. Get a bunch, it's hit or miss. The best beer (other than microbrew Jibiru) is Yebisu beer. Just don't get the really cheap beer which is actually not even real beer (and thus does not have to pay the beer tax) Popeyes in Ryogoku has over 70 foreign beers on tap. A schlep but if you feel like it, it's worth it. Roppongi is a bad place to go out at night. Roppongi is a good place to go out at night. Gas panic and 911 are shitshows.
Clubs/Lounges for chilling:
Superdeluxe - A fantastic lounge and art space across from roppongi hills, on roppongi dori. Check out their calendar to see whats going on. Meet cool people. Unit - minimal club in daikanyama Mado Lounge - Drink on the very top of roppongi hills (expensive) "The Bar" at Otago green hills - Very Expensive The Bar at the Grand Hyatt in Roppongi Hills...I forget the name...but it's expensive and they play jazz and give you free nuts to eat.
Shimokitazawa has underground music and is one or two stops west of Shibuya
Basic Super Useful Japanese 1. sumimasen If there's one multipurpose Japanese word that gets you a lot of mileage it's Sumimasen. It can be used to: o say excuse me o call the staff in a restaurant or shop o an intro to ask someone a question ("pardon me") o say thank you 2. doko Doko means where. When you' re traveling you'll end up using this word a great deal. A few examples: o doko (where?) o ~ wa doko desu ka (where is ~?) o eki wa doko desu ka (where is the station?) o toire wa doko desu ka (where is the toilet?) 3. en The Japanese word for Yen is en. Just take the "y" sound off. Here are the denominations of Japanese currency: o ichi en (1 yen) o go en (5 yen) o juu en (10 yen) o go juu en (50 yen) o hyaku en (100 yen) o go hyaku en (500 yen) o sen en (1000 yen) o go sen en (5000 yen) o ichi man en (10000 yen) 4. ii ii means good. It's often used to ask/indicate whether something is okay. o ii desu ka (is it ok?) o ii desu (it is ok) 5. nani Nani means what.
o nani (what?) o nan ji desu ka (what time?) 6. hai Hai is best translated "I'm satisfied". It doesn't necessarily mean yes. For example, if you ask someone if they want more beer and they say "I'm satisfied" — they're saying no. It's used a great deal in Japanese. It sounds polite. 7. Itsu Interogative words are important when traveling. Itsu means when. o itsu (when?) o basu ga itsu desu ka (when is the bus?) o densha ga itsu desu ka (when is the train?) 8. wakarimasen It's important to be able to indicate you don't understand. o wakarimasen (I don't understand) o nihongo wa wakarimasen (I don't understand Japanese) 9. Eigo Eigo is the Japanese word for English. It is pronounced like the American breakfast treat Eggo. o eigo ii desu ka (is English okay?) o eigo ga hanasemasu ka? (can you speak English?)
Appendix- Maps