conscious eating

FERMENTING FOR FOODIES

Preserving Food and Traditions

by April Thompson

More and more people are rediscovering the timehonored foodways of fermentation to promote health, boost flavor and preserve the bounty of the seasons. “There is huge potential to use high-quality fermented foods to enhance our health and well-being,” says Sandor Katz, a so-called “fermentation revivalist”, in Liberty, Tennessee, and the author of several bestselling books on fermentation, including the newly released Sandor Katz’s Fermentation Journeys: Recipes, Techniques, and Traditions from Around the World. Fermentation transforms the nutrients in food in several ways, Katz explains. In a process known as predigestion, it breaks macronutrients down into more digestible forms (think proteins turned into amino acids) and renders minerals more bioavailable. Gluten, too, is broken down by fermentation, he says, as are potentially toxic compounds in foods such as cyanide and oxalic acid. The process also releases vitamins B and K and other micronutrients as metabolic byproducts.

Fermentation reduces the short-chain carbohydrates that are poorly absorbed in the small intestine and are prone to absorb water and ferment in the colon, causing gas and bloating. Found in wheat, beans and other foods, they can pose digestive problems for people with irritable bowel syndrome and other conditions, says Tayler Silfverduk, a registered dietitian nutritionist in Columbus, Ohio, specializing in celiac disease.

“The most profound nutritional benefit of fermentation is the live bacteria itself. You are ingesting a rich biodiversity of beneficial bacteria that can potentially improve immune function,” says Katz, an AIDS survivor who considers fermentation an important part of his healing process.

Vinagre de Piña (Mexican Pineapple Vinegar)

Pineapple vinegar, vinagre de piña, is delicious and super-acidic. Many Mexican recipes call for pineapple vinegar, although it can be used in place of any kind of vinegar. Since this uses only the skin of the pineapple, we are eating the pineapple flesh. This recipe was inspired by a recipe in The Cuisines of

Mexico, by Diana Kennedy.

YIELD: 2 CUPS/500 MILLILITERS

2 Tbsp sugar Peel of 1 pineapple (organic, because the skin is used; overripe fruits are fine) Combine the sugar with 2 cups/500 milliliters of water in a jar or bowl. Stir to dissolve. Coarsely chop and add the pineapple peel. Use a small plate to weigh down the pineapple and keep it submerged. Cover with a cloth to keep flies out. Ferment at room temperature. Stir daily while the pineapple peels are in it. Strain out the pineapple peels and discard after about one week when the liquid is darkening. Ferment the liquid for an additional two to three weeks, stirring or agitating periodically. Bottle and enjoy.

From Sandor Katz’s book, Wild Fermentation: The Flavor, Nutrition, and Craft of Live-Culture Foods (Chelsea Green Publishing, 2016). Connect with Washington, D.C., freelance writer April Thompson at AprilWrites.com.

Rosy Raspberry Soda

YIELD: 2, RESEALABLE, 1-QUART-SIZE AND 1-LITER PLASTIC BOTTLES

½ cup/70 grams raspberries Juice from ½ lemon 2–4 Tbsp honey 1 tsp rose water Yeast Combine and blend. Place all the ingredients except the yeast in a bowl with a bit of water and mash together with a fork, or put them all in the blender. Divide between two, 1-quart/1-liter bottles. Top off with warm water. Add yeast. Sprinkle about ¼ tsp bread or champagne yeast into each bottle. Let it sit for a few minutes, then shake the bottles to dissolve and distribute the yeast. Let ferment on the counter. Check the carbonation after a few hours. Bleed carbonation by gently and slowly opening the bottles. Refrigerate when they seem strongly carbonated, generally within six to eight hours.

From Sandor Katz’s book, Wild Fermentation:

The Flavor, Nutrition, and Craft of Live-Culture Foods (Chelsea Green Publishing, 2016).