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SPhIeRINISTIDSER’S guide to
T yond e b & a li a id V , Natchez S P O N S O R E D B Y N AT C H E Z T H E M A G A Z I N E
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DELTA MUSIC AND THE MUSICIANS THAT GAVE IT BIRTH... Just as the landscape along the Mississippi River changes as it flows from Memphis down through the Delta, so do the musical traditions. From gospel, blues, jazz, country, rock ‘n’ roll to rockabilly -- all these musical genres and more are preserved and celebrated at the Louisiana Delta Music Museum in Ferriday. The museum is free to tour. Some of our inductees
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JERRY LEE LEWIS MICKEY GILLEY JIMMY SWAGGART THE EALEY BROTHERS LEON “PEEWEE” WHITAKER AARON NEVILLE PERCY SLEDGE
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Group tours available Monday - Friday with advance notice
9:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. Wednesday – Friday
218 Louisiana Avenue • Ferriday, LA 71334 • 318-757-9999 From Natchez, take US Hwy 84W until you reach Louisiana Ave. (park at rear of building for friends of the delta music museum handicap entrance & ring doorbell).
www.deltamusicmuseum.com
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21 SILVER ST. • UNDER THE HILL NATCHEZ, MS • 601-897-0466
A CHARMING CAFÉ TUCKED AWAY IN A COZY CITY ON THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER.
We have a great selection of sandwiches and salads for lunch, as well as pasta dishes, steaks, burgers and grilled fish for dinner. With daily lunch and dinner specials, homemade desserts and a full bar, you are sure to have a relaxing meal that you’re guaranteed to love.
VOTED BEST RESTAURANT 2016 NATCHEZ DEMOCRAT READERS’ CHOICE AWARDS
208 MAIN STREET 601-442-7452 COTTONALLEYCAFE.COM M O N D AY - S AT U R D AY, 1 1 A M - 2 P M & 5:30PM-9:30PM
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the planet, nlike any other place on American of x mi e Natchez’s uniqu ecture hit arc ite uis exq d history an wn, no combine to form a well-k h suc ing nd rsta public persona. But unde le litt a es tak l sou e an intriguing place’s tru . insider knowledge l through A desire to share that sou ation of this guide. knowledge led to the cre ellum houses, teb Natchez is known for an and minding pp sho quaint downtown Mighty Mississippi, blowing sunsets over the tchez, one must but to truly understand Na d guidance. an ask the locals for advice icial tour guide off the t no What follows is sts and is a good of Natchez. That already exi nt to check wa place to start if you merely t list. cke bu Natchez off your travel out ab re mo rn If you want to lea ly savor tru , arm ch ng ati tiv Natchez’s cap morable me ly t on your visit and make it no joy en ase ple ll, but remarkable as we discover why so “Unofficial Natchez” and so deeply. many locals love Natchez
LEGENDS
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HISTORY
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LOCAL COLOR
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FREE WAYS TO PLAY
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MUSIC
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SPIRITS
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EXPERIENCE Natchez-Under-the-Hill
It’s all here A special shop with a unique selection of gifts, fashion and jewelry. 27 Silver Street Natchez, MS • 601-870-1237 silverstreetgifts@gmail.com
The
Markets
Hometown people, serving your hometown Natchez • Vidalia • Ferriday • McComb
Your one-stop shop for hot lunches, cakes & party platters.
LEGENDS
INSIDE
EmetSery manager T S E N O D Ce ty Ci ez ch at Former N
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atchez has always been a city deeply embedded in 1. No trip to Natchez is complete the fabric of the without a trip to the Natchez South’s history. city cemetery on Its location on the Natchez Cemetery Road. Trace and the El Camino Real 2. Visit one of the city’s aNtebellum maNsioNs, made the city a traveler’s including Dunleith, Stanton haven, attracting people Hall, Longwood and Melrose. from all corners of the world. 3. For a view of history from the perspective of those who were At one point, Natchez was the city with the secondbought and sold into slavery, visit the Forks oF the most millionaires in the road slave market site near United States. the intersection of Liberty Road Natchez will celebrate and St. Catherine Street . its 300th anniversary, and it 4. See one of the greatest views in has the history to show for America with a walk along the mississippi river bluFF. it. Throughout the city, local Watch barges push their loads tales of Southern belles, up the mighty river and the soldiers and other residents occasional steamboat dock at abound. Natchez Under-the-Hill. No one would know 5. Visit Natchez uNder-thehill, which was arguably the better than Don Estes, the most notorious river landing on former manager of the the entire Mississippi before the Natchez City Cemetery, and Civil War. The area is located at author of “Legends of the the end of Silver Street. Natchez City Cemetery.”
DON’S TOP 5
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AREA HIGHLIGHTS WALK BACK IN TIME The Natchez Bluffs edge the historic Mississippi River, and give a great view of the area. Visitors can see across the Mississippi state line all the way to Louisiana’s riverfront. Along the way, stop and read about the history of the city using information boards posted along Trails marker the route. The bluff is also the beginning of two history trails that meander through downtown Natchez. Estes recommends visitors walk the Bluffs early in the morning. Trails begin in front of old train depot on Broadway Street.
STEPS INTO THE GRAVE Probably the most unusual grave in the Natchez City Cemetery is that of Florence Irene Ford. The grave with steps leading into the ground was recently listed in Ripley’s Believe It or Not. When Ford died of yellow fever at the age of 10, her mother was so distraught that she had steps built down to the head of her daughter’s casket with a glass window installed. Most nights, Ford’s mother would descend the steps with a lantern to sit with her little girl. The glass has since covered with concrete to prevent vandalism, but the steps remain. The grave is located in the Case Plot. natchezcitycemetery.com • 601-446-6345
UNFINISHED MASTERPIECE While it’s impossible to decide which one of Natchez’s many manor houses is the best, Longwood certainly has a lot to offer. Known as Nutt’s Folly, Longwood is the largest octagonal house in America. The house was designed in 1859 for cotton planter Dr. Haller Nutt. Work was halted in 1861 at the start of the Civil War. Nutt died of pneumonia in 1864, leaving the work incomplete. Of the thirty-two rooms planned for the house, only nine rooms on the basement floor were completed. Tours operate every 30 minutes from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. natchezpilgrimage.com • 140 Lower Woodville Road • 601-446-6631
Longwood
Full Southern or light and healthy breakfast served until 2 p.m.! Quick lunch options, speciality coffees and espresso drinks.
509 FRANKLIN STREET, NATCHEZ • 601-304-1415
MONDAY - SATURDAY 7am - 5:30 pm, SUNDAY 7 am - 2 pm
130 JOHN R. JUNKIN DRIVE | NATCHEZ, MS 39120 | 601.442.9976 | 888.946.4727
HOTELVUENATCHEZ.COM | PILOTHOUSENATCHEZ.COM
HISTORY
INSIDE
TREVOR BROWN director undation deputy Historic Natchez Fo
TREVOR’S TOP 5 1. Take a quick trip to Windsor ruins owned by the Mississippi Department of Archives and History. 2. Visit oakland Chapel on the Alcorn State University campus. The iron steps originally came from Windsor Ruins. 3. See the CommerCial Bank Building and the Banker’s house at 206 Main Street. 4. The shelter house at the Natchez City Cemetery is one of the city’s finest Arts and Crafts buildings. The house was designed by prominent furniture designer Samuel Marx. 5. Visit the natChez national historiCal park. Melrose and the William Johnson House offer unique views of antebellum Natchez.
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or Trevor Brown, the future of Natchez is rooted in its past. As the deputy director of the Historic Natchez Foundation, Brown is charged with protecting and preserving the historic tapestry of the city. Brown came to Natchez in 2012, after working six years with the Mississippi Department of Archives and History. Since then he has worked on various preservation projects, including Holy Family Catholic Church and The Natchez Institute, the former public school that serves as the Historic Natchez Foundation’s headquarters. Each day brings a new challenge, Brown said. “To get to do what I do in a town like Natchez is great because there are few opportunities to work in a place that has this much cultural and historical significance,” he said
AREA HIGHLIGHTS JUST LIKE THE OLD DAYS The intersections of Washington and Wall streets, and Washington and Union streets are the only places in Natchez where you will see antebellum buildings standing on all four corners of the intersection, so in essence you are transported back to 1860 and are seeing what they people in Natchez then would have seen.
SLAVES QUARTERS Located at 310 Gayosa Street, the slave quarters are the only remaining piece of the great mansion Concord. Built in 1789 by Spanish Governor, Carlos de Grand Pre, Concord was one of the first great mansions built in the region. The house burned in 1901 but is still considered one of the most significant buildings in Mississippi Old Concord postcard architectural history. One of the two original slave quarters still stands and is currently under restoration. Originally oriented on a rear courtyard the “front” of the building is now the rear, and the “back” has been given a more Colonial Revival update sometime in the 1940s.
EARLY DAYS OF TOURISM
The log cabin on the corner of Canal and D.A. Biglane streets was once part of a huge “reconstruction” of Fort Rosalie dating to 1940 and is significant in the early development of tourism in Natchez. Jefferson Davis Dickson, Jr., an international sports promoter, built the replica fort. The log cabin that remains was built as the gift shop for his tourist attraction. The logs may have been used from trees that were cleared when the fort was built on the property. Intersection of Canal and D.A. Biglane streets Photo of log cabin gift shop
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TONY BYRNE ayor
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ony Byrne, 79, was born and raised in Natchez, and led the city for 22 years. 1. Visit the site of the city’s Byrne served on the board of most famous brothel, alderman for two years (from Nellie’s. 1966-68), and was mayor for 20 2. Spend a morning going back in time to visit the years (1968-88). Being in such a city’s Native American roots prominent position for so many at the GraNd VillaGe years has allowed Byrne to of The NaTchez see the good, the bad and the iNdiaNs. unique. Some he’s seen more 3. Every Christmas Eve a group of Natchez up-close than others. Tripod businessmen and residents the Cat, a cat with three legs called the saNTa claus that roamed city hall, had its commiTTee parade own personal space on Byrne’s through town in a car desk. As a prominent figure caravan that culiminates with an event where Santa in the community, Byrne had gives gifts to area children the opportunity to meet some from needy families. of the oddest, most color4. Drive north of the Natchez City Cemetery and discover ful people this city has ever seen, such Nellie Jackson, who a deep ravine along the bluff called The deVil’s owned a bordello, or Maggie PuNchbowl. Legend Burkley, who was considered to has it that treasure is buried be the town psychic. Whether down there. he was handing out a belly rub 5. There once was a bar to Tripod or extending pleasantordinance in Natchez that made it against the law for ries to eccentric citizens, Byrne elePhaNTs To driNk knows and has lived through alcohol downtown. Natchez’s most unique events.
TONY’S TOP 5
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AREA HIGHLIGHTS NELLIE’S
Follow me to Nellie’s, or better yet, follow the crowd. Nellie Jackson was best known in Natchez for the bordello she owned, which was famous nationwide because Natchez allowed it to operate unimpeded. Nellie’s tragically burned to the Nellie’s on Rankin Street ground when a drunk 20-year-old man filled a cooler with gasoline and lit the place on fire in July 1990, killing both the man and Jackson with severe burns. Intersection of High and Rankin streets
MAN IN THE CHIMNEY Wait a minute, that’s not Santa Claus. Fifteen years after a local man apparently tried to burglarize an antebellum building in Natchez, masons repairing the building discovered his skeleton lodged in the chimney. The family believed lawmen recovered his bones from the banks of the Mississippi a year after his disappearance, before the shocking appearance of his skeleton rocked the community in 2000. Under-the-Hill Natchez across parking lot from Magnolia Grill
THE CITY’S KITTY The life of any three-legged cat is far from ordinary. When the doors of city hall were opened to Tripod the Cat, its life became extraordinary. City hall receptionist Carlee Reed began feeding Tripod, who hung around the building. Once Reed let the cat inside, Tripod made a flurry to get to then Natchez mayor Tony Byrne’s desk, where Byrne would rub its belly. Tripod became a mascot of sorts for city hall, and after Tripod’s death, the cat was buried in the front yard of city hall. 124 S. Pearl Street Tripod memorial
The view is almost as good as our food
SPECIALIZING IN REGIONAL CUISINE FRESH, LOCAL SEAFOOD, USDA PRIME STEAKS AND THE BEST BURGERS IN TOWN 601.446.7670 49 SILVER ST., UNDER THE HILL Locally owned and operated by John & Malan Parks
PEARL STREET A local tradition in historic downtown Natchez, serving Italian American Fare
105 South Pearl St., Natchez, MS • 601-442-9284 Lunch Monday - Saturday 11am - 2pm Dinner Monday - Thursday 5pm - 9pm, Friday & Saturday 5pm - 10pm Locally Owned and Operated by John and Malan Parks
Real Italian, Done Right Spaghetti & 2 Meatballs Two homemade meatballs topped with our fresh homemade sauce
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Cheese & beef layered with our delicious homemade sauce and noodles. A must try!
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Shrimp, cheese, tomato Baked to perfection
Dago Salad
Salami, ham, shredded cheese, tomatoes, & olive mix served w/ Italian dressing
’ S G A D LIL cafe
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29 Sgt Prentiss Dr, Natchez, MS (Blues Highway) (601) 304-2221 Mon-Sat 11-9, Sun 11-3
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FREE WAYS TO PLAY
d time without In Natchez, it is possible to have a goo gestions that will turn breaking the bank. Here are a few sug mories. your no-cost vacation into priceless me
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SUNSETS ON THE MISSISSIPPI With the newly-opened Bridge of Sighs at the end of Main Street, watching the sun sink behind the bridges spanning the Mississippi River just reached a whole new level. The panoramic view of the river is arguably one of the country’s most spectacular scenes.
VIEW FROM THE MOUNDS Want to know a little bit about what the area looked like before Natchez was settled in 1716? Two historic sites offer visitors a glimpse into the life of Native Americans. The Grand Village of the Natchez Indians, 400 Jeff Davis Blvd., and Emerald Mound, near the 10 post of the Natchez Trace Parkway, are two sites of Indian mounds. The Grand Village offers exhibits and trails. Emerald Mound is the second-largest ceremonial earthwork in the United States.
NATCHEZ IN BLACK AND WHITE The Natchez in Historic Photographs exhibit is an outstanding collection of photographs taken from as early as 1840 and offers a grand depiction of life in Natchez over the course of its early history. Located at the First Presbyterian Church on the corner of State and Pearl street.
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DOWNTOWN ARTS Second Saturdays in Downtown Natchez. Art, music, shopping and refreshments every second Saturday in beautiful downtown Natchez.
THE HOLY FAMILY CHOIR On Sunday morning, enjoying the spirit-filled voices of the Holy Family Choir. Sunday services for the Catholic Church at the intersection of Orange Avenue and St. Catherine Street begin at 5 p.m. Saturday and 8 a.m. Sunday.
WALK THE WALK Take a stroll through downtown Natchez and learn a little about the city’s history on the Natchez Trails. The 5.6-mile self-guided tour begins at the old train depot on Broadway Street. Follow markers in the sidewalk and stop at information boards along the way that will highlight the people, places and events that influenced Natchez.
PICNIC IN THE PARK Picnic at Memorial Park, Duncan Park or the Bluff while enjoying the atmosphere.
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TELL ME A STORY Natchez Stories: a free tricentennial program offered at 5:30 p.m. on Monday evenings in 2016. Presentations uncovering 300 years of fascinating Natchez stories – and characters. Also check out the Natchez history minute presented by the National Park Service in 2016. Listen to 366 days of Natchez history recorded by 366 different members of our community at visitnatchez. org and natchezms300.org.
NATCHEZ NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK Visit the properties of the Natchez National Historical Park. The antebellum house Melrose is located at 1 Melrose-Montebello Parkway and the William Johnson House is located at 210 South State Street.
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ST. CATHERINE CREEK REFUGE See amazing wildlife all year long. The magnolia hiking trail and canoeing are just a couple of the many outdoor options in the refuge. Take York Road exit on U.S. 61 South in Sibley. Headquarters is located at 21 Pintail Lane. 601-442-6696
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MUSIC
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YZ EALEY
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Z Ealey is a Natchez musician born in 1937 and raised down U.S. 61 South in 1. Visit the site of HaneY’s Sibley. He picked up the guitar Big House where musicians such as B.B. King, when he was 10-years-old and Irma Thomas and Leon “Pee never wanted to do anything Wee” Whitaker played. else. The band he started in 2. Check out the live music 1959 with his brothers Melwin acts in downtown and Theodis Ealey, “Y Z Ealey Natchez, found in local places such as Rolling River and the Merry Makers,” played Bistro, Magnolia Bluffs all around the Miss-Lou. They Casino, Bowie’s Tavern and often opened shows for the Bobby J’s. likes of B.B. King, Bobby Blues 3. Spend an evening enjoying the sounds from live music Band, Little Milton and Big Joe Turner. Over the years, he has at under-tHe Hill saloon while watching had opportunities to record the Mississippi River roll by. and go on the road, but he has 4. Travel the mississippi always stayed around NatBlues trail visiting chez playing juke joints and historical markers along night clubs, school proms and the way. 5. Learn about the music private parties. “That was never legends such as Jerry Lee my desire,” he said. “I’ve always Lewis, Mickey Gilley at the wanted to just play locally, and delta music museum to just play period.” in Ferriday.
YZ’s TOP FIVE
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AREA HIGHLIGHTS DELTA MUSIC MUSEUM From gospel and bluegrass to blues and rockabilly, you can find all of these music genres and more preserved and celebrated at the Delta Music Museum in Ferriday. Get a guided tour of the exhibits featuring the Delta’s biggest music celebrities, including Jerry Lee Lewis, Mickey Gilley, Aaron Neville, Conway Twitty and others. Visit the video room to see partial music performances. www.deltamusicmuseum.com • 218 Louisiana Avenue, Ferriday • 318-757-9999
DOWNTOWN MUSIC SCENE On any given night, the sounds of blues, rock and country can be heard spilling into the streets of Natchez. Whether it is the sound of a new Southern rock and roll band or the stylings of an acoustical guitarist, Natchez has the music you are looking for. Juke joints, saloons on the Mississippi River and local restaurants offer a variety of music venues that feature local musicians and regional artists. visitnatchez.org/live-music-calendar
Live music at The Saloon
MISSISSIPPI BLUES TRAIL Take an unforgettable journey into America’s single-most source of popular music —the blues. Trails markers in Southwest Mississippi offer facts and information about the people, places and events that gave birth to the blues. Local trails markers feature the Ealey family, band leader Bud Scott, Haney’s Big House and the Medgar Evers homecoming. msbluestrail.org Mississippi Blues Trail marker
SANDWICHES Pulled Pork Brisket (Sliced or Chopped) BBQ Beef • Turkey
BURGERS Jumbo Burger • Jumbo Cheeseburger • Blackened Burger Butt Hut Burger - Hamburger patty, brisket, bacon and cheese topped with onion straws, cole slaw and BBQ
DINNER COMBOS & FAMILY PACKS JUMBO WINGS SMOKEHOUSE CHEF SALAD FRIED CATFISH
SIDES Baked beans • Mac and cheese Coleslaw • Green beans Stuffed potato casserole Green bean casserole Corn casserole • Side salad Potato salad BULK ORDERING AND CATERING AVAILABLE
1100 CARTER ST. VIDALIA
318-414-2268 LOCALLY OWNED & OPERATED
e h C
t u O ck
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A Great Place to Live. Great Schools. Great People! Tour our website www.cityofvidaliala.com THIS INSTITUTION IS AN EQUAL OPPORTUNITY PROVIDER AND EMPLOYER.
SPIRITS
INSIDE
RICHARD BURKE Natchez bartender
RICHARD’S TOP 5 1. Order an Old Fashioned at The CASTLe Pub, 84 Homochitto St. 2. Cool off with a craft beer or a Knock You Naked Margarita on the patio at FAT MAMA’S TAMALeS, 303 S. Canal St. 3. Ask for the rum mojito or another craft cocktail at King’S TAvern, 613 Jefferson St. 4. Order a Manhattan from Julie and enjoy the spectacular panoramic view of the Mississippi River at hOTeL vue hotel, 130 John R. Junkin Drive. 5. Order up a round of drinks and play a friendly game of Tuesdays Trivia at bOwie’S TAvern, 100 Main St.
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hey don’t call it the Little Easy for nothin’. Take a stroll down Natchez Under-TheHill on any given night and you’re likely to hear some live music drifting down the Delta and spot a few locals sipping a cocktail. Natchez is known for its colorful character, which has inevitably infused into its bar scene. Rickard Burke, bartender at The Castle Pub, knows this, as he’s been bartending since age 21. “Natchez has a lot of flavor,” Burke said. “And that shows up in our drinks.” From a casual day at Duncan Park sipping a cold beer to a more upscale evening at King’s Tavern, Burke said countless ways to enjoy a cocktail in Natchez exist. Here are just a few of his favorites.
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AREA HIGHLIGHTS CONJURING SPIRITS
Take a tour of the Charboneau Rum Distillery, located next to King’s Tavern. The distillery is family owned and boasts some of the best rum in the South. Tours are available from 5 to 8 p.m. on Fridays and from noon to 6 p.m. on Saturdays. Above King’s Tavern, the distillery boasts a craft liquor store where you can purchase your own bottle of Charboneau rum. charboneaudistillery.com • 617 Jefferson St. • 601-8614203
Charboneau Distillery at
King’s Tavern
TAP INTO LOCAL FLAVOR With the recent release of Bluff City Blonde, a local beer brewed by Natchez Brewing Company, Fat Mama’s Tamales has been busy hosting beer tapping events, debuting new local brews. Make sure to catch a taste of a locally brewed, or state-brewed beer at one of these launches. And when you have a chance, stop by the Natchez Brewing Company on Franklin Street in downtown Natchez. natchezbrew.com • 413 Franklin St.
FROM THE VINE Looking for something sweet? Venture over to the Old South Winery for some homemade muscadine wine. The winery is locally owned and features whimisical wine names like “Southern Belle” and “Sweet Magnolia.” Visit the winery, located at 65 S. Concord Ave., Monday though Friday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. for a free wine sampling. oldsouthwinery.com • 65 S. Concord Ave. • 601-4459924 Old Fashioned from The Pub
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most notable ’s z e h tc a N f o e asked some places they would ich residents wh ts for a singular Natchez to gues recommend is is what they said ... h experience. T
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“I like to send people up into the northern part of Adams County past the cemetery and the Devil’s Punchbowl, out to Anna’s Bottom. There are a lot of interesting roads out that way. The one to Anna’s Bottom is like no other in the county.” — Greg Iles, New York Times-bestselling author of “Natchez Burning” To reach Anna’s Bottom, travel north of Natchez on Martin Luther King Jr. Road until you reach Anna’s Bottom Road. The road to Anna’s Bottom can be narrow with some sharp curves.
“The Rhythm Night Club Museum is an interesting place to visit. It’s an important part of Natchez history. The Rhythm Night Club fire affected every family in Natchez and is still ranked as one of the deadliest fires in history.” — Betty Lou Hicks, longtime tour guide The Rhythm Night Club Museum is located at 5 St. Catherine Street in Natchez. Call 601-597-0557 for more information.
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“The Richard Wright House on Woodlawn Avenue is often overlooked. Wright was a literary giant, and I think it’s great that people can go see his house as well as some of the earlier homes that were built by free blacks in that area.” — Darryl Grennell, Natchez mayor The Richard Wright House historic marker is located at 20 E. Woodlawn St. in Natchez.
“The Forks of the Road was the second-largest slave market in the country and ties in the labor force that created the wealth that made Natchez the economic powerhouse that it once was.” — Darrell White, director of the Natchez Museum of AfricanAmerican History and Culture The Forks of the Road is located near the intersection of Liberty Road and St. Catherine Street.
“The farmers’ market is a great place for people to visit. You can see what is in season and what local farmers grow in this area, and you can also pick up fresh produce and support those local farmers.” — Ritchie Montgomery, actor in “The Help” and “True Detective” The Natchez Farmers’ Market is located at 199 St. Catherine St. Call 601-442-4648 for more information.
“The Natchez in Historic Photographs gallery at the First Presbyterian Church is great because sometimes it’s hard to visit everything in Natchez in just one trip. The photographs give a great retrospect of what life in Natchez was like in the past.” — Ann Vidal Willett, local restaurant owner Visit the Natchez in Historic Photographs exhibit inside the First Presbyterian Church at 117 South Pearl St. Enter on the State Street side.
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