VOTED INDIA’S BEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE THIRD YEAR IN A ROW
OCTOBER 2016 • `150 • VOL. 5
I S S U E 4 • N AT G E O T R AV E L L E R . I N
TRAVELLERS'
CHOICE
Riding the
R AILS
GRUYÈRES
SURREAL SURPRISES
Scenic routes to fall in love with train journeys again
48 HOURS IN MOMBASA • THE PANDAS OF WOLONG, CHINA
DARJEELING TEA TALES
n a t i o n a l g e o g r a p h i c t r av e l l e r i n d i a
october 2016
VOTED INDIA’S BEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE THIRD YEAR IN A ROW
Contents
TRAVELLERS'
CHOICE
Vol 5 Issue 4
riding the rails
68
82
83
The Great Indian Train Story
Locomotive Breath
Long Train Running
88
90
92
A graphic artist’s chronicle of Indian railway engines Illustrations by Siddharth Dasari
Around the country in 20 scenic routes By Diya Kohli, Kareena Gianani, and Rumela Basu
Whistle Stop
Six noteworthy railway stations from across India By Diya Kohli, Kareena Gianani, and Rumela Basu
Portraits from the Vivek Express, India’s longest train route Photographs by Dhiraj Singh
Railway Reel
Northern exposure
Memorable movies in which the Indian Railways have a starring role J oByuDiya r nKohli eys
Canada’s Rocky Mountaineer train explores the history of the land Text by Robert Reid Photographs by Susan Seubert
Journeys
The Surreal Flavours of Gruyères A Swiss town known for its hard cheese pulls a few surprises By Neha Sumitran
68 Darjeeling Himalayan Railway
8
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | october 2016
106
Steeped in Darjeeling A journey into North Bengal’s verdant hills to indulge in the champagne of teas Text by Andrew Mccarthy Photographs by Justin Guariglia
christopher pillitz/the image bank/getty images
100
42
VOTED INDIA’S BEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE THIRD YEAR IN A ROW
OCTOBER 2016 • `150 • VOL. 5
44 48 Hours
I S S U E 4 • N AT G E O T R AV E L L E R . I N
Colonial history and Swahili traditions in the coastal city of Mombasa
TRAVELLERS'
CHOICE
20 Crew Cut
The pleasing inertia of a train journey chases away travellers’ blues
22 Guest Column
The small joys of travelling in big groups
n av i g at e
24 Experience
Epiphany and silence lurks on the trails around Germany’s Bad Antogast
28 Take Five
An offbeat guide to the unknown aspects of a city
Geotourism
30
Diving deep with explorer Jessica Cramp in the Cook Islands 32 Rewilding pandas at various outposts of Wolong Nature Reserve in China
36 Sports Travel
52 Detour Riding the
R AILS
GRUYÈRES
SURREAL SURPRISES
DARJEELING TEA TALES
Scenic routes to fall in love with train journeys again
48 HOURS IN MOMBASA • THE PANDAS OF WOLONG, CHINA
On The Cover Photographer Sajad Rafeeq took this photo of the Baramulla-Banihal DEMU train near his hometown Pampore, in Jammu & Kashmir. The daily train is a lifeline for the region, famous for its fragrant saffron. The photo was shot in autumn, when the looming poplar trees begin to shed their foliage to prepare for the snowy months ahead.
Two photographers travel across Europe retracing the steps of famous artists
42 Heritage
Indigenous art and aesthetic come alive at Bhopal’s Tribal Museum
56 Taste of Travel
Sour flavours appear on menus everywhere in the Philippines
60 Local Flavour
In Kurseong, tea experiments revolutionize the classic cuppa
64 Lit Trip
A portrait of Ireland’s capital city as a book lover’s nirvana
66 Book Shelf
In crime fiction, train journeys offer settings flush with thrills and chills
Short Breaks
From Delhi
A pit stop at Daytona Beach, motor racing’s hallowed grounds
38 The Inspiration
A towering, well-preserved Roman Aqueduct lies at the heart of Segovia
118 Patiala thrums with the energy of its regulars 14 Editor’s Note 16 Notebook 122 Inspire 128 Travel Quiz
Shraddha Bhargava (museum) sajad rafeeq (cover)
voices
large-hearted residents
Stay
120
Colonial-era charms at a lush Assam tea estate
121 Walks, views and an eco-friendly retreat in Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary october 2016 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
9
Editor’s Note |
n i lou f e r v en katra m a n
TERMINAL A-ONE
It is about the little things: soothing stress, adding on small touches that make travellers feel a bit happier
our mission
Jackson Hole Airport, Wyoming.
14
was not long, but I was intrigued enough to stop, lie down and try it out. It was comfortable and because there was an ocean of them, I assumed this was not a permanent fixture, but something that’s done during delays, bad weather, or when a large number of people are expected to be stuck at Frankfurt. I’d first heard about camp beds being brought in to accommodate stranded passengers in 2010, when the volcanic ash cloud disrupted flights across Europe. But now, this facility seems to exist even in less dramatic circumstances. These cots serve a useful role for those who cannot afford the luxury of airport lounges. Ten years ago I think nobody would have cared, but today the comfort of the long-distance traveller is something that is being taken into consideration. We recently ran a story on our website (natgeotraveller.in) about therapy dogs now available at Mumbai airport to assist in calming passengers with frazzled nerves. This is seen more and more, the U.S. leading the way with about 30 airports offering this cheerful and comforting extra. To me it reflects a change in the travel industry; an understanding of how to make the travel process smoother, less stressful, easier. My favourite airport on this trip turned out to be the tiny airport of Jackson Hole, Wyoming. It was a few small touches I observed that made all the difference to my two-hour early morning wait. Catching a flight to Chicago, one of the first things I spotted as I entered the airport at 7 a.m. was people relaxing on beanbags lying in front of the check-in counters. This made it seem more like a family living room than transit hub. It was welcoming, a nice way to keep passengers comfortable in a place that is generally wearisome. Past security, near the entrance to the airport restaurant I spotted a bookshelf with a sign inviting me to take a book for my travels. Free! Three shelves housed an assortment of books that could satisfy every kind of reader. The bottom shelf was stacked with books for children. I looked around expecting a sign to say take one and leave one, but there was none. It was a gift from the community for anyone missing travel reading material, and gave this tiny airport a small but heart-warming touch. Next, I stepped inside the restaurant to get breakfast. I was immediately struck by the restaurant’s location: an entire wall of glass overlooking the runway and beyond it, the Teton Mountain Range. I found myself a table at the window and settled into a seat. This was one occasion on which I didn’t mind a mediocre overpriced breakfast sandwich, because it came with the stunning vista of the snow-flecked Tetons I could feast on.
National Geographic Traveller India is about immersive travel and authentic storytelling, inspiring readers to create their own journeys and return with amazing stories. Our distinctive yellow rectangle is a window into a world of unparalleled discovery.
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | october 2016
niloufer venkatraman
W
e live in a time of airport horror stories. Of complaints about invasive security checks, racial profiling, and snaking queues to get through metal detectors without jackets, shoes, belts, earrings. Airports have in the recent past been much maligned. Amidst the heightened security and longer waiting times at airports around the world, I’ve realised there are also significant positive features. While travelling to the U.S. this August, it struck me that although we acknowledge that airports have changed over the last 20 years, we often miss the little pluses. I’ve begun to notice that increasingly, airports are catering to travellers’ needs that go well beyond the availability of basic amenities like food and seating. Across the world airports are trying to get friendlier and warmer. This is not just about building awardwinning structures with amazing design and modern aesthetic. It is about the little things: soothing stress, adding on small touches that make travellers feel a bit happier. Thankfully for us passengers, airports are more than just functional spaces. Besides the spectacular design of Mumbai’s T2 international terminal, what I really like is that it goes that extra step to appeal to and bring joy to a traveller. The vision that considers it important enough to create Jaya He, the museum project at Mumbai airport, signals to me a significant change in the way decision makers today view airports. I’ve travelled through Frankfurt airport over two decades and I have noticed the seating for transit passengers change. It was at first a mix of regular airport seating and reclining lounge-style seats. Over the years I noticed the loungers getting fewer and fewer. Increasing instead were hard, un-cushioned seats with dividers intentionally placed between each seat, so that tired passengers on long layovers could not put their feet up and use it as a bed. On this U.S. trip however, I was taken by surprise while transiting through Frankfurt when I saw rows and rows of black, campstyle cots lined up in Terminal C. It wasn’t aesthetically pleasing, but it was practical and I could see many a traveller extremely grateful for it. My layover time
Notebook |
connect
@natgeotravellerindia
@NGTIndia
facebook.com/natgeotraveller.india
3,27,306
BEST OF THE WEB
Prague’s Currency of Cool There’s a revolution brewing in the “city of a hundred spires,” and it’s got to do with bitcoin. The digital currency is fast shaping how Prague’s cafés and other establishments now serve their patrons. See Trip Ideas>Cities Prague, Czech Republic
Immersive Travel At our September Meetup in Mumbai, travel writer anjana vaswani, city-based editor Pronoti datta, and physicist-turned-cheesemaker aditya raghavan chatted with NGT India’s Deputy Editor neha dara about how they dig deeper into new cultures when they travel. Some tips from the experts and the audience.
literary pilgrimages
making waves
Going to the sunshine state? Pick from our super-sized list of stays featuring creek-facing tents, Portuguese-style villas, and a fort-turned-heritage hotel. See Trip Ideas>Cities
Book-themed amusement parks, author-inspired perfumes, and literary museums: spine-tingling adventures are made of these. See Getaways>Inspire Me!
discover old neo-Vaishnavite monasteries in Majuli, assam. it now holds the Guinness World record for being the world’s largest river island. See Travel Talk>News
GO TO naTGEOTravEllEr.in FOr mOrE WEB ExcluSivE STOriES and TravEl idEaS
THE Find
Eye of the Cat
During a visit to Vienna, Austria, in April this year, I bought tickets for a round-trip cruise down the Danube River, to the Slovakian capital Bratislava. Walking around its medieval Old Town, I tucked into seasonal white asparagus at a food festival, watched graduating students collect party money from passersby, and listened to a busker play lively music below Michael’s Gate. On a tiny bridge beyond the gate, the whimsical creations of a lady selling earrings caught my eye. I bought myself this pair of cats. I love their mismatched eyes and—an amusing little detail—their tails curling up the back of the earrings. —Deputy Editor, Neha Dara
■ look for passionate experts or guides who can help you bridge cultural gaps and deeply connect with a new place. ■ sign up for walks. in Mumbai, for instance, Khaki Tours and Beyond Bombay help travellers discover little-known details of neighbourhoods. ■ Get in touch with home chefs at authenticook or home Chef revolution to indulge in regional meals. ■ Travel with organisations who conduct socially responsible tours to get under the skin of a region. nExT mEETuP: 14 October 2016, 7.30-9 p.m. venue: Title Waves bookstore, Bandra (West), mumbai.
october 2016 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
15
Photo courtesy: Paralelni Polis (café), neha dara (earring)
goa’s best stays
■ learning holidays involving dance or a craft are a great way to connect with locals and learn about a land’s history.
navigate 36
sports travel A pit stop at Daytona Beach, motor racing’s hallowed grounds
52
detour A towering Roman aqueduct at the heart of Segovia
60
local flavour Tea experiments revolutionize the classic cuppa in Kurseong
Bad Antogast is situated on the periphery of the Black Forest, a region full of lakes and forest trails. It’s a convenient distance from hiking destinations like Baden-Baden.
Stillness in the Black Forest
G
oing on a ten-day silent retreat in Bad Antogast, a small hamlet on the edge of the Black Forest in Germany, punctuated by a handful of farmers’ houses and terraced fields, was my wife’s idea of a fun vacation, not mine. Left to my own devices, I would have preferred to trace the Alps, hiking a well-known trail and marking it off on my list of accomplishments. I get a kick out of tangible outcomes. My wife suggested I learn to quieten my mind. I was unconvinced. She booked me in anyway. Located in Germany’s deep south, close to the Swiss and French borders, Bad Antogast is encircled by mountains and forests, making it difficult to reach from any German city. That’s not necessarily a bad trade, for all the clockwork German
24
precision also melts away as one leaves the hustle of the cities behind. Appearing unannounced in a valley, it’s a village custom-built for experiments with reclusiveness. There are no markets to be seen, no traffic. A mineral water spring is the only tourist attraction. The Silence Retreat is located on a slope. My room was a minimalistic rectangle, the windows of which opened onto the forest. Wooden flooring, thick woollen blankets, and a warm bed turned it into a comforting nest. Cellular network didn’t penetrate its walls. Everything about the retreat suggested silent enquiry, mostly within. The trouble with wandering minds like mine is that even silent pauses are pregnant with planning. In my free hours, I conspired to mountain bike to the neighbouring
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | october 2016
villages of Maisach or Griesbach or go looking for the hidden spot, somewhere up in the mountains, from which a sole parasailer sometimes appeared out of thin air and remained hanging in the blue vastness for long hours. Conversations were difficult to strike up though. Walking past the cowshed next door, I’d spot men separating hay into small heaps for their animals, and women working on the slopes, growing potatoes and cabbage. In this part of the world, they still dress the old German way in lederhosen, the leather pants that last a lifetime. The farmers smiled at me, and treating this as an invitation, I walked up to them to learn more about their lives. They didn’t know English though, and I had never really taken my German lessons seriously. Silence was
daniel schoenen/imageborker/dinodia photo library
silence and Epiphany lurk on the trails around Bad Antogast By Nitin Chaudhary
Navigate |
quie t pl ac es
less of a choice, more a necessity. To fill the hours of my ten-day stay, I took to walking with the feverishness of a dervish. The trails here gain a gradient as they slant upward, with temperate mixed forest of pine and oak taking over the fir that lines the lower hills. There are no beginnings or ends to the paths. They all seem to merge into one another, before circuiting to the tarmac in the valley below. From the gaping slits in the curtain of trees, thatched huts in pastel hues of red and yellow are visible far out in the valley. After a day of walking, once the sun lost its shape, I would walk back towards one of these huts and curl up next to a fireplace. The next morning, the cycle would begin again, and I would follow another forest trail. So often was I spotted on the dust-laden tracks zigzagging across the forests that the village folks would wave at me from a distance. For once, in these narrow settings, I became a recognizable figure. The Black Forest is a neat absorbent. It ingests everything: the sound of my footsteps crushing dry leaves, the
vaporous puffing from the efforts of a solitary climb, an orphan grunt from slipping on a wet stone. It transforms these noises into a gentle nothingness, returning not even the slightest rustle. Somewhere on the trail, I stopped to listen. My breath was still heavy from the strain of the climb, and despite the chill, sweat droplets tracked my brow. No birds chirped, even the gurgling of the streams was out of earshot. Stillness dominated. I noticed that my urge to speak had diluted, and then disappeared. With silence, my perception also sharpened, and I began to notice things that previously would have gone unnoticed. I reflected that people here didn’t blab mindlessly. They spoke in monosyllables and only when needed, as if words were potent vehicles to provide clarity, and should be used sparingly. I stood soaking in the silence. For once, thoughts failed to bubble up, and the indecisiveness I had carried with me faded away. All I could notice was the several shades of green that prevailed on the thick cover of the trees
around. Never before, outside a box of crayons, had I perceived such variety of a single colour. I stayed there looking at the valley till the sun disappeared. And thought of nothing. All the travels I had taken so far, all the flights I had negotiated, had brought me to this one suspended moment. I closed my eyes. The timelessness was comforting. the vitals Getting There Bad Antogast is 250 kilometres south of Frankfurt, about 5 kilometres from the town of Oppenau. It is a three hour train journey, requiring a change at Offenburg (€29/`2,191; www.bahn.de). Taxis from Oppenau to Bad Antogast charge €14/`1,058. Alternatively, one can fly to Dusseldorf or Basel, in Switzerland, and then take a train to Oppenau. The Silence Retreat is run by the Art of Living Foundation (www. artofliving.org/de-en/silence-retreat). Need to Know Take along winter wear and hiking boots as there is ample opportunity to explore the surroundings. Bad Antogast offers mountain biking and parasailing as well.
october 2016 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
25
Nitin Chaudhary (spring & retreat), Brännhage Bo/Prisma/dinodia photo library (forest)
Bad Antogast gets its name from the natural medicinal springs (top left) that are a short hike from The Silence Retreat; The long, circuitous trails (bottom left) are punctuated by thoughtfully placed benches at beautiful viewpoints; The Silence Retreat (right) used to be a chapel dedicated to Saint Antonius, who is said to have lived here in A.D. 1300. It was also a spa that hosted dance parties and a refugee camp.
Navigate |
Tak e F i ve
1 SEE THE NEIGHBOURS
For every Rome, there’s a Mantua. Instead of creating an itinerary based on the places that receive the most attention, seek out the destinations that seem to have been missed.
2 DITCH THE GPS
Your phone’s mapping apps are precise locating tools, but travel should never just be about “getting there.” Look at a paper map and see if there’s a route that takes you through a bustling market or along a quiet shore. Give yourself permission to wander intentionally off course.
3 TALK TO STRANGERS
Find a hashtag that pinpoints your area of interest and ask away. Fellow travellers will tell you where to go near Toronto, or recommend a homestay in Croatia, or a guide they know in Beijing. Ask where the locals take vacations to score some insider information.
An offbeat guide for exploring the unknown By HEATHER GREENWOOD DAVIS
I
t happens to the best of us. We finally get a chance to book a trip— and end up in the same places as every other traveller. You stay where Trip Advisor tells you, eat where Zomato recommends, and google your way through a vacation. Suddenly, you’re visiting a checklist instead of a place. Make no mistake: There’s nothing wrong with wanting to see the wonders of the world or the UNESCO-
28
designated sites, but they aren’t the only reason to travel. For every city you’ve heard about, there’s another waiting for you to discover it, but in a sea full of must-see lists, it can be difficult to uncover the smaller destination fish. So how do you find those spots that will wow you without risking a vacation that disappoints? You prepare yourself to get lost. Here are five tips to lead you happily astray:
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | october 2016
HOP ON
A train, metro, or bus will work. There is no better way to get to know some of the local vernacular than to blend in on a city commute.
5 BE OPEN TO THE JOURNEY
Getting lost isn’t about being reckless or unsafe; it’s about choosing a path that hasn’t lost its allure. The key is to open yourself up to the possibility—and intention—of doing things differently. This is about succumbing to the true idea of travel: to explore.
ILLUSTRATION BY: JOSH COCHRAN
Go Your Own Way
4
Navigate |
Heri tage
With installations depicting games children play (left) and legends related to musical instruments (right), the Madhya Pradesh Tribal Museum is an ode to the region's tribal cultures.
Sense and Spirituality IndIgenous art and aesthetIc comes alIve at Bhopal’s trIBal museum By Kareena Gianani recreate the popular Gond folk tale of the Basin Kanya. According to the story, a strange twist of fate leads to a girl being killed by her six brothers. Thereafter, she is reborn as the bamboo plant, an invaluable natural resource for the tribe. I spot a brass model of a bangle, at least six feet in diameter, studded with figurines of cattle and pickaxe-wielding farmers. It is an enlarged version of an ornament gifted to newly-wed Bhil women and symbolizes the harvest and productivity. Nearby are numerous drums tied to a tree. Alongside, figurines of musicians depict stories of the origins of music among some local tribal communities. It helps me see how seemingly ordinary objects are potent symbols of faith and an expression of art among communities. Stepping into the Tribal Spiritual World gallery feels like entering a magic land illuminated in deep blues
and fierce reds. A sign says the lighting attempts to help visitors imagine a mystical world inhabited by spirits of ancestors. Vivid exhibits symbolize the afterlife, for instance ladders are meant to help the deceased enter heaven. Memorial pillars are carved with touching detail, depicting a grandfather chewing tobacco or a child playing with a favourite toy. This extraordinary museum captures the unfettered imagination of the indigenous people of this area. It is a space in which life stories have been told and shared with the world in imaginative ways. the vitals The Madhya Pradesh Tribal Museum is in north Bhopal, 15 km/30 min southeast of Bhopal airport and 8 km/ 20 min southwest of Bhopal railway station (mptribalmuseum.com, open Tue-Sun noon-8 p.m., entry `10).
october 2016 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
29
Shraddha Bhargava
B
hopal’s Madhya Pradesh Tribal Museum unfurls a rich tapestry of stories. Its vast galleries are canvases for locals and artists from the Gond, Bhil, Korku, Baiga, Sahariya, Kol, and Bhariya communities, who have crafted exhibits and installations showcasing their everyday life and folklore. The first gallery is illuminated in warm yellows and oranges, as if catching the mellow rays of the morning sun. Visitors can enter replicas of traditional mud-and-brick huts of each tribe. They are so realistic that I feel like I’ll see a matriarch bustling about in a kitchen any second. On the walls outside I spot tiny murals of impish children frolicking on farms. Things get more interesting at the Tribal Aesthetic gallery with its exhaustive exhibits related to myth, art, and marriage rituals. A part of the gallery is lush with bamboo, and wooden figurines amid this “jungle”
Navigate |
lit tr i p
City of Joyce A portrait of dublin city as a book lover’s nirvana
B
irthplace of James Joyce, W. B. Yeats, George Bernard Shaw, and Samuel Beckett, Dublin has more literary landmarks than most cities. Some serve double-duty: The Duke is an 1822 bar and the starting point for the Literary Pub Crawl (www.dublinpubcrawl.com),
a walking tour of historic, authorfriendly pubs. In 2010, UNESCO named Dublin to its list of Cities of Literature—of which contemporary author Joseph O’Connor commented, “To describe Dublin as a City of Literature would be like saying rain sometimes falls in Ireland.”
Dublin Writers Museum
Letters, rare editions, portraits, and other memorabilia from the likes of Jonathan Swift, Oscar Wilde, Shaw, Yeats, Joyce, and Beckett fill this 18th-century mansion. The Michelin-starred restaurant Chapter One occupies its basement level. (writersmuseum.com; Mon-Sat 9.45 a.m.4.45 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.-4.30 p.m.; adult €7.50/`565; child €4.70/`355.) James Joyce Centre
Far from a stuffy memorial to the literary cult figure, the centre hosts weekly Joyce-themed walks, spearheads the annual Bloomsday festival, and welcomes guest readers as starry as Stephen Fry. (jamesjoyce.ie; from Oct-Mar Tue-Sat 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Sun 12-5 p.m.; from AprSept also open Mon 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; entry €5/`375.) Trinity College
Take a student-guided walking tour around this prestigious 16th-century university, home to the largest library in Ireland and the illuminated ninth-century Gospel manuscript, the Book of Kells. (tcd.ie/ visitors/book-of-kells; from Jun-Sept MonSat 8.30 a.m.-5 p.m., Sun 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; from Oct-Dec Mon-Sat 9.30 a.m.-5 p.m., Sun 12-4.30 p.m.; adults €11/`825.) Sweny’s Pharmacy
Daily Joyce readings take place at this former pharmacy where Ulysses’ Leopold Bloom famously buys lemon-scented soap. (sweny.ie; limited seats; regularly updated schedule on website.)
Dublin’s 13th-century cathedral, one of the city’s few remaining medieval buildings, is a pilgrimage spot for fans of satirist and poet Jonathan Swift, who was also a dean of the cathedral. (stpatrickscathedral.ie; 9.30 a.m.-5 p.m.; entry €6/`450, family of four €15/`1,130; free guided tours Mon-Sat.) National Library of Ireland
Its holdings include the largest collection of W. B. Yeats manuscripts in the world, donated by the Yeats family. (www.nli.ie; entry free; opening hours vary, see website for details.) For the full literary lowdown: dublincityofliterature.ie —Reported by Sarah Barrell, in collaboration with National Geographic Traveller (UK)
64
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | october 2016
tilly runningforcrayons.co.uk (illustration)
St. Patrick’s
in focus 68
india Twenty scenic train routes around the country
83
india Portraits from the Vivek Express, India’s longest train route
92
canada Stunning views and history lessons on the Rocky Mountaineer train
XX Xxxxx xxxxx, Xxxxx
october 2016 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
65
Sajad Rafeeq
68 The Baramulla-Banihal DEMU train passing by Qazigund station in Jammu and Kashmir.
In Focus | T rain j ou r n eys
The Great Indian
Tr ain Journey Around the country in 20 trains
The Himalayan Queen metre gauge train runs along the Kalka Shimla Mountain Railway route from Haryana to Himachal Pradesh.
68
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | october 2016
XXXXXXXXXXXX (c) bobby roy photography/moment/getty (XXXXXXXXX) images
Diya Kohli, K areena Gianani, and Rumela Basu
XXXXXXXXXXXX dinodia photo library (XXXXXXXXX)
â– In dia
Palace on Wheels lives up to its name, giving passengers a taste of old-world royalty and hospitality. october 2016 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
69
In Focus | xxxx xxx
Railway Reel Many a momentous twist of plot in cinema has taken place as a train winds its way past fields and forests of India. Lovers are thrown together by happy coincidence, or a leading man grows from a young boy to dashing hero in a time jump while travelling through India’s ever-changing and vast countryside. The celluloid train journey is the perfect setting for intrigue, drama, mystery, and even a side of murder. Its corridors and roof provide ample opportunity for edge-of-the-seat action. And the train song is almost a genre unto itself, with the locomotive serving as a veritable orchestra with its piercing toots and the chuk-chuk of its wheels. Here’s a selection of ten memorable films in which the Indian Railways feature. ARADHANA (1969) “Mere Sapno Ki Rani” is the stuff train romances are made of. It features an exuberant Indian Air Force pilot Arun Varma (Rajesh Khanna) serenading his lady love Vandana, played by the beautiful Sharmila Tagore. She is aboard the Darjeeling toy train which gently makes its way up the mountain, puffing steam and whistling in tune with Rajesh Khanna’s melodious song. This film is one of the classics of Bollywood that earned the actor the sobriquet “king of romance.” DIL SE (1998) This movie produced what is now an iconic train song, “Chaiyya Chaiyya.” The A.R. Rahman classic quickly achieved a cult following as did Malaika Arora’s gravity-defying hip movements and Shah Rukh Khan’s trademark headbang. Filmed on the moving Nilgiri Mountain Railway, the song weaves its rhythms with the whistles and chugging wheels, and the choreography follows suit. It is hard to listen to “Chaiyya Chaiyya” without breaking into your own version of a train dance.
JAB WE MET (2007) This Imtiaz Ali romcom starring Kareena Kapoor and Shahid Kapoor begins on a train. A depressed young man and a vivacious Punjabi girl meet on an overnight journey from Mumbai to Delhi and sparks fly, but unlike conventional Bollywood dramas, love does not follow suit. In this case, the girl saves the boy and then they go their own ways. However, a series of serendipitous and humorous mix-ups result in the duo being thrown together and eventually love blossoms.
XXXXXXXXXXXX (XXXXXXXXX)
DILWALE DULHANIYA LE JAYENGE (1995) Shah Rukh Khan seems to love trains as they form a signature
backdrop in many of his films. From Kabhi Haan Kabhi Na (1994) to Kuch Kuch Hota Hain (1998) and Chennai Express (2013), there is a train for every reel appearance of “King Khan,” be it a goofy romance, a stylish entrance with his trademark hair flick, or a key moment with his lady love. What immortalized the train romance was the sequence from Diwale Dulhaniya Le Jayenge where Kajol’s Simran runs toward her onscreen lover Raj, who’s on a train departing the platform, and their outstretched hands meet in the nick of time. The day is saved, the hero gets the girl, and the train rolls merrily into a happily ever after. The scene is supposed to be located in Punjab, but is actually shot at Apta Railway Station in Maharashtra’s Raigad district.
90
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | october 2016
PARINEETA (2005) The picturesque Darjeeling Himalayan Railway is a perennial favourite with Bollywood, thus warranting its second appearance on this list. Director Pradeep Sarkar’s period drama Parineeta has some lovely set pieces, including the song “Kasto Mazza” with Saif Ali Khan, shot aboard the Darjeeling toy train. The best part of this scene is when a bunch of apple-cheeked children sing the refrain “Kasto mazza he relaima,” meaning “What fun it is to travel by train.” PATHER PANCHALI (1955) Another Satyajit Ray masterpiece which features one of the most iconic railway shots in Indian cinema is Pather Panchali. The scene is like a painting in motion, with a longshot of a steam train slowly entering the frame as the two child protagonists, Apu and his sister Durga, run through a field of wild kash phool in a village on the outskirts of Kolkata. This sequence’s magnificent play of light and shade captures the beauty of the rural setting and the children’s wonder at seeing a train for the first time. SADMA (1983) Sadma is about the touching relationship between a school teacher, played by Kamal Hassan, and a young woman portrayed by Sridevi. Somu is a kind man who cares for Reshmi, who has
suffered brain damage and amnesia after an accident. A moving scene towards the end of the movie is set on a train. Sridevi has recovered and is on her way home, though she has forgotten everything that took place post her accident, including her time spent with Somu. Hassan tries to get past the jostling crowds at Ooty station, trying to jog Sridevi’s memory by re-enacting their time together. She ignores him thinking he is a mad man, breaking his heart as well as that of a million viewers. SWADES: WE THE PEOPLE (2004) The train sequences in this film essay key moments in protagonist Mohan Bhargava’s understanding of his country, its people, and their problems. Bhargava’s character, played by Shah Rukh Khan, is a well-meaning NRI scientist returning to his motherland. The train’s general compartment becomes a way of bridging the distance between the city and the Indian countryside—a journey into the rural heart of India that is far removed from Bhargava’s sanitized and modern world. A little boy selling drinking water from a kettle at a station becomes a metaphor for this India that Bhargava wants to get to know and change for the better. These scenes were also shot at Apta Railway Station near Panvel, Maharashtra, a popular spot among Bollywood’s filmmakers. THE DARJEELING LIMITED (2007) This Wes Anderson comedy is set aboard a fictional luxury train that travels across India. With Rajasthan providing the real backdrop to the journey, the film captures the heat, dust, and stark beauty of the land with many stories unfolding both inside and outside the train. Added to this is Anderson’s quirky tale of three brothers on a quest to find peace and rediscover their lost bond. The film was shot on board an actual train purchased from the North Western Railways of India and redecorated for the film to suit Anderson’s signature design palette. —Diya Kohli
XXXXXXXXXXXX (XXXXXXXXX)
NAYAK (1966) Satyajit Ray directed this classic set on board a 24-hour train journey from Kolkata to Delhi. Ray casts Bengal’s most famous star Uttam Kumar as the hero of his piece, playing a “meta” role as a film star. He meets Sharmila Tagore, a strong-willed journalist who interviews the actor, forcing him to confront his demons. Rail elements like the changing scenery, station halts, and activities inside the first-class dining car provide the perfect foil for their conversations and the protagonist’s introspective moments.
album online/indiapicture (THE DARJEELING LIMITED), screen grab: DILWALE DULHANIYA LE JAYENGE, NAYAK, PARINEETA, DIL SE, PATHER PANCHALI, SADMA, ARADHANA, JAB WE MET, SWADES
■ xxxxx
october 2016 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
91
Journeys |
t he a lter n ati v e
the surreal flavours of
Gruyères
When a town known for its hard cheese pulls a few surprises by N e h a S u m i t r a n
100
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | october 2016
FABRICE COFFRINI/Staff/AFP/getty images
Gruyères’ more outlandish tourist draws include artworks of extraterrestrial creatures designed by Swiss artist H.R. Giger, including those for the film Alien. They are on display at Museum HR Giger.
■ switz sw itz er e rlan lan d
XXXXXXXXXXXX Irma Delacombaz (XXXXXXXXX)
Gruyères’s Tibet Museum has Buddhist thangkas and sculptures from the Indian subcontinent. The modest selection is housed in a former Christian chapel, complete with stained glass panels of Christ, Mary, and Joseph.
october 2016 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
101
Journeys |
t he a lternati lter n ati ve ve
Lit up after dark, Château de Gruyères gleams like a lantern in the inky darkness of the night.
Three days later, Irma and I are walking through the La Maison du Gruyère cheese factory, nibbling on sticks of cheese, and straining to hear the audio tour, narrated by a cow named Cerise. “Me and my girlfriends have three stomachs,” she says chirpily, mooing every now and then, “which is just one of the reasons we’re superior to humans.” I roll my eyes at Irma, but despite the cheesy narration, the walkabout is actually quite interesting. Through large panes of glass, we see uniformed cheesemakers turning vats of creamy milk into hunks of sweet, slightly salty Gruyère.
102
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | october 2016
At an installation nearby, we sniff the scents of Alpine wild flowers, their floral notes conjuring images of grassy mountainsides, despite the fact that we are in a sterile factory. Meanwhile, a giggly Cerise explains that cheese made in summer is sweeter because the cows eat wild flowers every day. Alter the diet, and the flavour and richness of the milk changes. Cheesemaking, I realise, is a craft that takes generations to master. With a bag full of cheese and little tubs of double cream (another local speciality), Irma and I set off to explore the rest of
swiss-image.ch/Roland Gerth
I am in the midst of a torrid affair. Two days ago, it was a hunk of young Brie in the park, yesterday, a deliciously mature Cheddar captivated my attention after dinner, and this afternoon at lunch, I was reduced to a blubbering mess when I encountered gooey raclette. So when my friend Irma Delacombaz suggests we spend my last day in Switzerland exploring the town of Gruyères, famous for its namesake cheese, all I could summon was a soft sigh.
■ switz sw itz er e rlan lan d
XXXXXXXXXXXX Glenn Van Der Knijff/Lonely (XXXXXXXXX) Planet Images/getty images
The cobblestone streets of Gruyères are lined with Swiss chalets, many of which serve pots of fondue featuring the town’s famous cheese.
october 2016 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
103
Tast e o f Trav el
S t e e p e d
Pickers harvest Darjeeling tea leaves at the hilltop Glenburn Tea Estate.
106
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | october 2016
i n
XXXXXXXXXXXX (XXXXXXXXX)
Journeys |
■ w est be n gal
D a r j e e l i n g A journey into North Bengal’s verdant hills to indulge in the champagne of teas
XXXXXXXXXXXX (XXXXXXXXX)
by A n d r e w M c Ca rt h y, P h oto g r a p h s by J u st i n G ua r i g l i a
october 2016 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
107
Journeys |
Tast e o f Trav el
Tea today is a $40 billion industry, making it, after water, the most popular drink outside a cement-and-mud hut under a magnolia tree, I watch on the planet. But there is only one place that produces what has come to be known a young woman with a sad, unguarded smile bend to offer as “the champagne of teas,” a distinctive brew with a telltale muscatel flavour: me a yellowing porcelain cup without a handle. A confused light these slopes in eastern India. So here I am rooster is crowing at the late afternoon sun slashing light across in Darjeeling. The British arrived in this part of the Lesser Himalayas, ruled by the Gurkhas of Nepal, in the 19th century and set up a military outpost. The manicured tea trees that cling to the hillside rolling down to the area around Darjeeling quickly grew into a summer retreat Rung Dung River. In the distance, the hills rise back up, capped for colonists who wanted to escape the heat of the plains. The by a jumble of buildings in varying states of decay. Darjeeling. climate proved ideal for cultivating tea, and an industry was I raise the cup to my lips. The woodsy aroma of tea pushes born. A narrow-gauge railway (accorded World Heritage status away the flowered scent of the air. The amber liquid slides into in 1999) sliced through the mountains by 1881, connecting the my mouth. Could this really be it? village to the wider world, and Darjeeling grew. Political unrest High in the foothills of the Himalayas, at the northern tip of came and went and has returned, with many locals striving to the state of West Bengal, I am searching for the best cup of tea in establish an independent state of Gorkhaland. Today Darjeeling the world. It started innocently enough. One morning at home maintains a precarious hold on itself. Its buildings balance atop in New York, I sleepily looked at the contents of the cup in my plunging hills that give way to deep valleys or cling to precipices hand and wondered, “Where does this come from?”
SITTING ON A SPLINTER-PLAGUED BENCH
Tea plantation workers reflect the region’s mix of ethnicities, from Nepali to Bengali to Tibetan.
108
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | october 2016
Tibetan monks clean butter lamps at Yiga Choling Gompa. october 2016 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
109
XXXXXXXXXXXX (XXXXXXXXX)
â– w est be n gal
short breaks 118
from delhi Vast forts and atmospheric bazaars in bite-sized Patiala
120
stay Colonial-era charms at a lush tea estate in Assam
121
stay Walks and views at a wildlife sanctuary in Binsar, Uttarakhand
Serene Qila Mubarak is located right in the midst of Patiala city, surrounded by busy lanes full of traffic.
Patiala of Plenty
T
he bite-sized city of Patiala has given its name to the generous Patiala Peg and the voluminous Patiala salwar. There’s nothing otherwise oversized about this oldfashioned city, so I conclude it must be because of the legendary Punjabi spirit. Indeed, this is easy enough to spot in the hospitable people of Patiala—in the broad smiles, hearty greetings, and ever-open invitations to down a big brass tumbler of thick, frothy lassi. Patiala was established in 1763 as a military stronghold by Baba Ala Singh, its first maharaja; and the name literally means
“land of Ala.” The fledgling kingdom became one of India’s most powerful princely states, fending off repeated assaults by the warlords of Afghanistan, the Mughals, and the advancing Marathas. During the 20th century, Maharaja Yadavindra Singh, who ruled Patiala at the time of Independence, played a prominent role in the formation of the Union of India. Today, the city’s spruce polo field, parks, and cricket grounds exude gentility and wholesomeness. The quiet homes and peaceful, tree-lined neighbourhoods are resolutely serene in a fastpaced world.
The Vitals Patiala is in southeastern Punjab, 65 km southwest of Chandigarh. It is 240 km/5 hr north of New Delhi and linked to the capital by NH44 and NH64. The nearest airport is Chandigarh. Patiala’s railhead, Patiala Cantt. Railway Station, is well connected with Delhi. The daily Delhi-Fazilka InterCity Express makes the journey in a convenient 5 hours.
118
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | october 2016
ip zero 03/indiapicture
This northern city thrums with the energy of its generous residents | By Ambika Gupta
culture Holiday
2+
Delhi
240 km
Patiala
D ay s
five ways to explore Walk Downtown The State Tourism Department organises an excellent 1.5-hour heritage walk of the old Patiala area. It starts at the Royal Mausoleum or the Shahi Samadhi, and is led by a knowledgeable guide. I enjoyed listening to gripping tales from Patiala’s 300year battle-scarred history as we wandered through 18th-century neighbourhoods and markets like Bajaja Bazaar and Bartan Bazaar. After passing through Darshini Deori, the ceremonial gateway from which commoners once watched royal processions, we arrived at the sprawling Patiala Fort or Qila Mubarak. (0172-2625950; tours start at Tourist Information Centre, Old Commissioner Office, Mall Road; Fri-Sun; Mar-Nov at 8 a.m. and 6 p.m., Dec-Feb at 9 a.m. and 4 p.m.; cost `25 per person.)
fierce Fortress
Atmospheric Alleys Atmospheric Haveliwala Mohalla, barely a kilometre from Patiala Fort, was once the city’s poshest neighbourhood. The now fading havelis with ornate doors and delicate lattice-work balconies were the homes of the court aristocracy. Though frayed at the edges, the havelis still suggest their erstwhile stately aura. The quiet lanes are full of discoveries like Chhata Nanumal, a private archway built over a public road, where public hearings were conducted. Another unusual feature is the narrow Sappan Wali Gali or Snake Lane; jewellers intentionally designed the 1.5-kilometre street to be no more than two metres wide and zigzag crazily, possibly to slow down any fleeing thieves.
Snack and stock Patiala’s bazaars brim with colourful jootis (from `400), parandi hair accessories (from `200), and pretty, hand-woven phulkari
There are plenty of bargains to be found in the wholesale markets of Old Patiala (top), where stores sell everything from jaggery to turbans; The museum in the Durbar Hall of Patiala Fort (bottom) has huge crystal chandeliers and beautifully framed paintings of the royal family.
dupattas (from `1,000). Qila Bazaar, around the fort, is one of the city’s oldest markets and is predictably chaotic, colourful, and clamorous. Before diving in, fortify yourself with chole puri (`18) and lassi (`15) at Pammi Purian Wale (Daldalian Chowk, near Shahi Samadhan; 98145 37933). Brothers Pammi Singh and Parinder Singh started this unpretentious eatery in 1983. The pethe ki sabzi (cooked pumpkin) is a local favourite.
The Simple Life Experience the bucolic Punjabi heartland at a farm stay near Patiala, where you can ride through dazzling yellow mustard fields on a buggy, tractor, or ox cart. Potter around in the organic vegetable gardens, and learn to milk cows or groom horses. Try cane basket-weaving or rug- or dhurrie-weaving. The less ambitious can meet farm animals and savour homemade stuffed parathas (Gary Farms, Nanoki Village; 98146 02562; 28 km northwest of Patiala; `2,000 for a day trip including two meals and refreshments). Take the morning jeep safari into Bir Bhadson wildlife sanctuary. Don’t go looking for big cats or exotic wildlife, instead expect to see jackal, wild boar, sambar, partridge, peacock, duck, and other wetland animals (`1,000 for a safari organised via the farm). october 2016 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
119
ravi dhingra (market), ambika gupta (museum)
Patiala Fort, built by Baba Ala Singh in 1763, is divided into two precincts that are both hauntingly desolate. Enter through a majestic gate to visit the first, the vast Qila Mubarak (for receiving state guests), which includes the Lassi Khana (kitchen), Sard Khana (cool rooms), Ran Baas (guest quarters), and the Durbar Hall. A flight of stairs leads to the second precinct, the Qila Androon, which consists of a succession of interconnected gardens, courtyards, and palaces. Along the perimeter of this massive ten-acre fort are its lovely, tree-shaded grounds, from which the Persian and Rajput architectural elements of the walls and jharokhas can be admired. The once resplendent Durbar Hall has stunning chandeliers, and a museum with quaint, slightly dusty treasures: a solid silver carriage, a jade dagger that belonged to Guru Gobind Singh, and the sword of Persian emperor Nadir Shah who invaded India in 1739. (Fort and museum open Tue-Sun, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; entry to fort free; museum entry adults `10, children `4; photography not allowed.)
Inspire |
Germa n y
Iceland
DENMARK
GERMANY FRANCE
Kazakhstan
POLAND
Ludwigsburg
Georgia Azerbaijan Armenia
Iran
Ludwigsburg Pumpkin Festival
TRNC
Cyprus
Syria
Iraq
Lebanon
Ludwigsburg, Germany
On weekends from September to November, downtown Ludwigsburg engages in revelry celebrating the harvest of the season—pumpkins. Giant pumpkin sculptures designed around a theme take pride of place near the town market in southwestern Germany. There’s also a display of close to 800 types of pumpkins and other squash grown locally in Ludswigsburg. There are pumpkin carving contests and food stalls featuring dishes made using the sweet squash, including what is known as “Germany’s biggest pumpkin soup” that is sold to raise money for charity. The highlights at the Kürbisausstellung Ludwigsburg (Ludwigsburg Pumpkin Festival) are the paddlers and the weigh-offs. For the former, participants paddle across Castle Lake in giant hollowed-out pumpkins. Meanwhile, the biggest, heaviest pumpkins battle it out at the Pumpkin Weigh-Offs (the European record holder is a 1054-kilogram specimen from 2014). Winning entries are proudly displayed before being smashed to smithereens by revellers on the last day. Some do it for fun, others to collect the seeds to grow their own prize pumpkin. —Rumela Basu
124
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | october 2016
october 2016 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
125
ralph oriowski/stringer/getty images news/getty images