DECEMBER 2015 • `150 • VOL. 4
ISSUE 6
Cities of Joy PARIS THE ART OF PEOPLE-WATCHING
BENGALURU ONE STEP AT A TIME PANJIM REINVENTING THE MODERN
PLUS EUROPE’S RISING STARS: 12 CITIES YOU SHOULD VISIT NEXT
Coast With the Most A Sri Lankan Holiday
n a t i o n a l g e o g r a p h i c t r av e l l e r i n d i a
december 2015
Contents Vol 4 Issue 6
urban spirit
Tampere, Lucerne, Bologna—putting the Continent’s lesser-known destinations in the spotlight
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Reinventing the Modern
Past and present in Panjim as it negotiates the 21st century By Vivek Menezes
70 Bordeaux, France
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national Geographic Traveller INDIA | december 2015
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This City was Made for Walking
Rediscovering Bengaluru’s avenues and alleys, one step at a time By Zac O’Yeah Photographs by Nirlek Dhulla
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Café Society
Lessons in flânerie, the fine art of people-watching in Paris By Tara Isabella Burton Photographs by Peter Turnley
j.d. dallet/age fotostock/dinodia
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Europe’s Rising Stars
34
vo i c e s
DECEMBER 2015 • `150 • VOL. 4
ISSUE 6
Coast With the Most A Sri Lankan Holiday
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24 Guest Column
What do great journeys make you think of?
26 Slow Travel
Getting outdoorsy to conquer fear results in a new travel bucket list
28 Crew Cut
When missed connections and chance encounters dislodge the best-laid plans
n av i g at e
30 Hidden Gem
Little-known European islands to soak up seascapes and local lore
33 Local Flavour
Frosty climes and sweet icewine in Canada
34 Take Five
Cities of Joy PARIS THE ART OF PEOPLE-WATCHING
BENGALURU ONE STEP AT A TIME PANJIM REINVENTING THE MODERN
PLUS EUROPE’S RISING STARS: 12 CITIES YOU SHOULD VISIT NEXT
On The Cover American photographer Peter Turnley captured this couple at Esplanade du Trocadéro in Paris, France, his adopted home of 40 years. It captures the city’s spirit of romance and its infectious joie de vivre, and proves that, despite the challenges, life can still be quite wonderful.
Rock around Europe’s eastern block
38 The Insider
Embracing the weird and wonderful in Austin, Texas
68 Checking In
46 The Find
Starry skies and cosy desert camps in Rajasthan
Surajpur Wetland, a refuge for birds and Delhi-weary souls
Short Breaks
50 Bookshelf
Stories that delve into the heart of Africa
52 The Power of Place
The Himalayas are a Russian painter’s muse
SMART TRA V ELLER
58 Money Manager
A couple’s retreat to Sri Lanka’s southern coast
From Delhi regulars 18 Editor’s Note 20 Notebook 122 Inspire 128 Dire Straits
114 Centuries-old palaces and other curiosities in Jhalawar, Rajasthan
Stay
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Secluded Kerala beaches and a taste of a Malayali home
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A haveli-turned-heritage homestay in Gujarat
december 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
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peter turnley/corbis news premium/corbis/imagelibrary (cover), guido cozzi/atlantide phototravel/terra/corbis/imagelibrary (crosses), brett stevens/cultura/dinodia (food), photo courtesy: Manvar Desert Camp and Resort (animal)
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Editor’s Note |
n i lou f e r v en katra m a n
J
I had wondered, sceptically, what he was going to say, quite sure the religious babble would not resonate with me
ust as I have a list of places I want to travel to, I have long held in my head, a tentative list of places I really don’t want to go to. Not because I’ve been there and didn’t like them, but because I feel they hold no interest for me. Given that I’m only going to have a finite number of travel experiences, I’d rather not spend time at certain places. Several of the destinations on my mustn’t-visit list are connected to religious pilgrimage. While I respect the sentiments of pilgrims, I haven’t felt the need to plan a trip to Tirupati, or Rajasthan’s Karni Mata temples, or numerous other sites, for one reason or another. This summer I was in Narendranagar a small village in Uttarakhand’s Tehri-Garhwal hills enjoying a bit of quiet time. The young man at my hotel’s reception desk asked me if I wanted to go to Rishikesh, 17 km away, for the Ganga arti that evening. Not being one for religious ritual, I declined. I’d seen some photographs of the Ganga arti elsewhere earlier, and had decided that it wasn’t something I wanted to spend time on. During the course of the day, three other hotel staff mentioned the arti, recommending it highly. By late afternoon, I began to consider it. That evening before sunset, I reached the steps leading down to the River Ganga in front of the Parmath Ashram in Rishikesh. It was swarming with freshly scrubbed young men in yellow kurtas and orange dhotis, who looked like they were in training at the nearby ashram. Suddenly, there was a buzz in the air. Everyone stood up and
I heard loud whispers, “Swamiji is here, Swamiji is here.” I stood reluctantly, and turned my head to see a man with a long beard, half-dyed, half-white hair and bright orange clothes walking towards us. I rolled my eyes inwardly wondering what I had signed up for. We all sat down and Swami Chidanand Saraswati took the mike and immediately started singing. Unexpectedly for me, a mellifluous voice rose gently over the mike, and though I could not understand the actual words of the bhajan, I could feel the pleasant vibrations of the singing. I noticed the soft breeze coming off the Ganga, the gorgeous evening light as the sun fell behind the horizon, the river a dusky orange. As darkness fell, I found myself enjoying the energy and rhythm of the evening, closing my eyes and savouring the calm. And then he started speaking. I had wondered, sceptically, what he was going to say, quite sure the religious babble would not resonate with me. I was in for a bit of a surprise. He spoke of “human social responsibility or HSR.” Why do we only hold corporates responsible for society, he questioned? Why not each one of us? Start by keeping your home and neighbourhood clean, and please don’t dirty the Ganga on the pretext of religious ritual, was his advice. Come back tomorrow, he said, to donate. Ah-ha! I thought, that what this is all about. And then he continued: Don’t bring any money. Come and donate blood; we need people to participate in our blood donation drive. And then, before leaving he made a simple, grounded request: that everyone in the audience commit to spirituality by planting a tree, and more importantly, by taking care of and nurturing it. As the Swami left, a buzz of voices rose as everyone started the jostle to leave the venue. I lingered on the steps a few minutes longer, taking in all that I had just experienced. I walked down to the Ganga to acknowledge the spirituality of the place. It was the same feeling I’ve had when hiking in the Himalayas, when driving through vast, untouched Ladakh, or staring up at a star-filled sky—a feeling of connectedness and calm. Back home, as I looked back at my three days in the area, this evening stood out for its unexpectedness, and for the fact that it made me feel good. It provided insight into something I’ve been sceptical about—how religious fervour translates into action that makes a difference. Since then, I’ve been a little careful about adding any more places to my mustn’t-visit list. Who knows what eye-opener lies in store at the spots I’ve belittled.
our mission
Rishikesh, Uttarakhand
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Beginners’ Guide to Diving Make the most of the peak diving season which lasts until April in India. Dive instructor Umeed Mistry provides a quick, easy introduction to getting a diving licence and picking the right operator. See Web Exclusives>Experiences
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Fishing for Joy
■ twitter and instagram— thanks to its geotagging option—throw up great tips of things to eat and see in a new place.
correction In the story titled Set in Stone (october 2015), it was incorrectly stated that fossils of triceratops were found in India. the correct information is that some fossils unearthed in India in the 1980s were believed to be of triceratops, but the theory was later disproved. thanks to atharva sreekar (class 6, Bengaluru) for pointing out the error.
national GeoGraphic traveller inDia | December 2015
■ avoid using public Wi-Fi networks if they aren’t password-protected, especially when financial transactions are involved. ■ nirbhaya, Watch over me, and Woman Safety Shield protection are helpful personal safety apps for solo women travellers.
earlier this year i visited Jharkhali, a small village in West bengal’s Sundarbans. my boatman invited me to his home in this village, dominated by paddy fields, where i observed how locals live in mud and thatched-roof houses. each home has a small pond in the backyard where they rear fish for the family’s consumption. i was passing by one of these ponds when i noticed a young boy happily swimming after he had secured his catch for the day. —Anupam Chanda
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■ Websites like vayable, eatWith, and cookening allow travellers to experience a new city with locals, and share meals.
NExT MEETup: 11 december 2015, 7-8.30 p.m. venue: Title Waves bookstore, Bandra (West), Mumbai.
december 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
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Ilse ReIjs and jan-noud Hutten/flIckR/cReatIve commons (diver), anupam cHanda (boy)
following bebinca to goa
■ install anti-theft applications like Undercover (for ioS) on your laptop to lock it in case of theft.
Voices |
CREW CU T
Striking Gold What happens when the best-laid plans go awry?
Kareena Gianani Kareena Gianani is Associate Editor at National Geographic Traveller India. She loves stumbling upon hole-in-the-wall bookshops, old towns, and owl souvenirs in all shapes and sizes.
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national Geographic Traveller INDIA | december 2015
amar grover/jai/passage/corbis/imagelibrary
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by then, basking in the intimacy I felt with the village and cont was midnight, and I sat sullenly at the edge of a dysfuncnecting with its people. Soon, we were playing peek-a-boo with tional fountain outside my hotel in Pelling, Sikkim. I had his ruddy-cheeked nephew who looked baffled at the racket we arrived just that evening with two friends to see Mount made. I helped Indra’s mother as she cooked traditional Limboo Kanchenjunga before we headed to Gangtok, and further fare of millet pancakes, phulaurah (buckwheat) fritters, and local north. It was meant to be just for a day but a political party had greens. My rotis were shapeless but my joy was complete. just announced a three-day bandh across the state, making travOver two days, with no lofty peaks calling and no bookings to elling around or out of this west Sikkim town impossible. The confirm, we blended into Darap’s rhythm, enjoying a place not mountain’s silvery peak was the saving grace as Pelling seemed on our original itinerary, one that I hadn’t even heard of until the lacklustre, with squat hotels springing up at every bend. day before. Indra’s cousin took us around the village, to sweepA month before the trip, I had planned and shared with my ing rice fields which were making way for lucrative cardamom friends an elaborate itinerary. It listed everything I thought we crops. He pointed to a deorali (shrine) on a small hilltop, a pit must see and do in Sikkim. That’s the kind of traveller I was stop for travellers and local traders travelling to nearby villages, in my early 20s, packing each day to the brim, leaving little to and his secret hiding place. Later, on a night walk, my friend chance. A strike had no place in my plans. So when I realised and I ended up at one end of the village, where the road petered we were going to miss our hike to the nearby town of Yuksom, out and a lush forest began. Slowly, our eyes adjusted to the inky and would not be able to see the thangkas at Gangtok’s Namgyal night, and I saw a dozen fireflies flitting in and out of our converInstitute of Tibetology, I was upset. sation. There was nowhere else I wanted to be and for the first My friends were in better spirits. They suggested we walk time on my travels, the present was enough. around Pelling the next morning without map or agenda. When the strike ended, we went up north on schedule. But It didn’t sound like a great idea to me, but I joined them anyway. unlike in the past, I let myself linger in markets, eavesdrop A few kilometres into the walk, we realised that the weary stretch on conversations, and have an extra bowl of instant noodles. of hotels around us was in fact surrounded by deep woods. We Instead of asking the driver to go faster, I frequently asked him set off hiking alongside gnarly trees on steep slopes, through to stop the car just to be able to appreciate the Teesta River stretches so silent that even the softest birdsong was magnified. snaking unhindered through valleys, before dams alter this Like the legendary magpie I collected strangely shaped, shiny region forever. I picked wild flowers to press in my book or wear rocks flecked with minerals, to use as paperweights. behind my ear. It was in Sikkim that I discovered a new side to We walked for over an hour, stumbling upon a 300-year-old the traveller in me: one who is happy to leave things to chance monastery folded deep into the woods. Amid the stillness outand every once in a while, revels in missed connections. side its prayer hall, I felt inspired to write my first travel journal, something I had never found the time for, with one eye always on the clock during my previous travels. Pemayangtse Grinning like children, that afternoon we sneaked Monastery in into a tearoom run by a welcoming local who wasn’t Pelling, Sikkim actually supposed to be serving customers during the strike. Over glucose biscuits dipped in tea, he convinced us to visit Darap, a village eight kilometres away, where his friend ran a homestay. Darap was everything Pelling will never be—free from billboards and the construction sites of upcoming hotels. Its one-storeyed homes had cosy, airy courtyards and balconies. It was here we met Indra, one of the entrepreneurs trying to develop Darap as an ecotourism destination. He said he was a mountaineer who missed home when he was away, but now pined to scale peaks when he pored over account books. His homestay, which he claimed “wasn’t much,” turned out to be a charming two-storeyed log house he had designed himself. I had positively perked up
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LocaL F L avou r
Dessert in a Bottle Frosty climes help create icewine, canada’s much-loved drink By Kareena Gianani
E
very winter, owners of many Ontario wineries watch the thermometer closely, as if tracking the stock market. If the temperature is -8°C or lower for three consecutive days, they can harvest a variety of grapes to make the extravagantly sweet icewine, drunk primarily as a dessert wine. Strangely, for a drink born in the northern hemisphere, of freezing temperatures and a winter crop, it has the lingering flavour of tropical fruits like lychee, pear, or pineapple. Best served chilled, icewine is a versatile drink. Canadians have it as an aperitif, with or as dessert, or pair it with cheeses or pâtés; but I see it going equally well with a round of spicy kebabs. Icewines can be red or white and are made from Riesling, Vidal, or Cabernet Franc grapes. I first tasted Ontario’s “liquid gold” over lunch at the 19thcentury Prince of Wales hotel in Niagara-on-the-Lake town. My white Riesling had an intense flavour and the aroma of apricot
and honey, with a hint of tangerine. Its unmistakable acidity—a balance of sweet and sharp—distinguished it from other dessert wines. The first icewine was supposedly made in Germany in the 1700s, some say by sheer accident: Farmers trying to salvage their harvest after an unexpected frost ended up with this complex, rich drink. German immigrants brought their eiswein tradition to Canada in the 1970s. Intrigued by the drink and its legend, I signed up for a wine tour at the Reif Estate Winery nearby. Its German owner is a 12th-generation winemaker who produces both table and icewines. In August when I visited, the grapes were nowhere near frozen. But according to our guide, come November, workers cover the fruit in nets to protect them from hungry birds. When the temperature is right, pickers don parkas, warm boots, and mittens and handpick the fruit. It is immediately pressed and each grape releases a miniscule amount of juice. It takes
about three kilos of frozen Vidal grapes to produce one 375-ml bottle of icewine, whereas the same quantity produces six times the table wine. This difference is also reflected in the price: A 200-ml bottle of Reif Estate’s Vidal icewine costs CAD25/`1,200, double that of a 750-ml bottle of their Vidal table wine. Some like to mix icewine with vodka for an icewine martini, but I didn’t want to change a thing about the drink in my hand. Sipping a Vidal icewine, I let its smooth texture roll in my mouth, and bottled it in my palate’s memory. the vitals The Icewine some 60 of ontario’s 132 wineries produce icewine. presently, the 2011 Riesling grand Reserve icewine, 2012 inniskillin cabernet franc icewine, and château des charmes 2012 Vidal icewine are among the finest. The Tour numerous wineries run tours. i visited Reif estate Winery in niagaraon-the-lake (130 km/1.45-hr drive from Toronto). the tasting tour included table and icewines (www.reifwinery. com/visit.php; Apr-Oct daily at 11.30 a.m., 1.30 p.m., and 3.30 p.m., weekends Nov-Mar; CAD5/`250 onwards).
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photo courtesy: Reif estate WineRy (grapes), cosmo condina/alamy/indiapictuRe (Winery), oleksiy maksymenko/age fotostock/dinodia (bottle)
To make certified icewine, vintners across Ontario’s wineries (top right) harvest only naturally frozen grapes (top left); a bottle of Cabernet Franc icewine (bottom) can cost at least four times as much as a table wine made of the same grape varietal.
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t he f i n d
Surajpur Safe House Just outside Delhi, a refuge for birds and city-weary souls By Kavita Devgan | PHOTOGRAPHS By Bhanu Devgan
Visitors to Surajpur often spot rare sarus cranes, the 5 to 6-foot tall palegrey birds with reddish legs and large bills. They are very noisy, trumpet loudly, and are often seen in pairs.
M
y birder-photographer husband has been going to the Surajpur Wetland and Natural Forest, a biodiversity park located on the fringes of Greater Noida, frequently for the last two years. His descriptions of an easily accessible bird paradise, hidden from the cacophony of Delhi, sounded perfect, and I finally decided to see what the fuss was all about. We left early on a Saturday morning, and after just an hour’s drive I found myself transported to an expansive, green space. There was a gentle quiet, made up of the pleasant sounds of the forest. My city-deadened senses woke up, and I began to register the different textures and sights. From the entrance we started walking clockwise on an oval trail that goes
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around the huge waterbody at the centre of the park. No cars, scooters, or cycles are allowed. Walking is the only way to experience this tranquil area, and soak in the park’s biodiversity. Benches at regular intervals are perfect for a short rest, and there are watchtowers to climb and say hello to the birds. The trail is
dusty, but clearly marked out, and goes through some deeply forested areas. The only mammals we saw on that day was a herd of nilgai, but grey mongoose, Indian hare, golden jackal and the five-striped squirrel are also frequently visible. Birds we saw aplenty: flocks of sarus cranes and multiple
the vitals Look Out For 186 species of birds from 44 families, some of which are threatened. These include 102 resident species, 53 winter migrants, 28 summer migrants, and 3 passage migrant species. Large numbers of local and migratory birds can be seen from Oct to Mar (surajpurwetland-up.com). Getting There Surajpur Wetland and Natural Forest is in Surajpur village in District Gautam Budh Nagar (Greater NOIDA), about 40 km/1.5 hr southeast of Connaught Place in Delhi. It is best to hire a full-day cab for the journey from Delhi, which will cost approximately `3,000, as getting a cab for the return journey might be tough. Open All days, from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.; no entry fee (the divisional forest officer, Gautam Budh Nagar Forest Division, can be reached at 0120-2425989 for more information). Strict rules prohibit picnicking and ensure visitors keep the park clean.
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | december 2015
Seeing large flocks take flight over the Surajpur Lake is an uplifting sight. Here a flock of northern shovellers pierces the quiet with their calls while spot-billed ducks frolic in the water (top); Purple swamphen (bottom left) live in the marshy spots around the lake; Nilgai (bottom right) might be the largest of Asian antelopes, but they’re still rather shy of humans.
species of storks flying above us in droves, piercing the serene morning with their conversation. Herons, northern shovellers, cormorants, water peafowl, and buzzards were spotted along the trail. Frolicking on the water at various points were spot-billed ducks, lesserwhistling ducks, cotton pygmy geese, comb ducks, common teals, purple moorhens, and red-crested pochards. The ferruginous pochard, bar-headed goose, greylag goose, and gadwall are
also found here in good numbers, and some lucky visitors may catch a glimpse of rarer species like the bristled grassbird, and black-necked stork. To top it off are 52 species of butterflies. Much work has gone into creating this park. Since 2010, the Uttar Pradesh Forest Department in collaboration with the World Wildlife Fund-India, with support from the Greater Noida Industrial Development Authority, has developed 761 acres of the Surajpur
Wetland. Besides creating a nature trail, more than a million trees have been planted, and an artificial dam built to ensure water supply during the winter. It took us four hours to complete the whole circuit, though it’s possible to do it in as little as 1.5 hours, with fewer stops. By the time we were ready to leave, I had a new appreciation for this place where visitors can enjoy nature at close quarters, and local and migratory birds get themselves a piece of paradise.
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urban s pi r i t
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In Focus |
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national Geographic Traveller INDIA | december 2015
■ euro pe In Split, Croatia, the Riva promenade brings the action to the Adriatic seafront.
Europe’s
Rising Stars december 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
SIME/eStock Photo
tampere, lucerne, bologna—many of europe’s lesser-known places are witnessing increasing interest from travellers. here’s a pick of a dozen thrillers 71
In Focus |
urban s pi r i t
Yes, it’s touristy, but Munich’s Hofbräuhaus piles on the charm—and the litres of beer.
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munich, germany
Playing to the Stereotypes For all its progressive thinking,
Munich tends to look to the past when it comes to lifestyle. The capital of meat-eating, beer-swilling Bavaria is a place where dinner takes the shape of knödel dumplings and pig’s trotters, washed down with local beers by the litre. And although the residents ham it up for Oktoberfest, you’ll catch them breaking out the trachten—as they call their traditional outfits—for special occasions year-round. It’s all done with such a sense of Gemütlichkeit (neighbourly friendliness) that there’s nothing cloying about Munich—and nothing fake about it, either. Some of the woodpanelled, hangar-like beer halls date back 200 years, and as the days grow warmer, their expansive beer gardens become the meeting places of choice. Best for Traditions. Main event
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Starkbierzeit, or “strong beer time,” is Munich’s lesser known but more authentic spring beer extravaganza. It runs annually two weeks near Lent. Also try Salzburg, Austria, possibly the only other city in the world where lederhosen (leather shorts) are considered acceptable formal attire and apple strudel is widely sold.
■ euro pe
A fine Finnish figure in Tampere
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TAMPERE, FINLAND
Hottest When It’s Cold helped
Tampere, once nicknamed “the Manchester of Finland,” grow into Finland’s second largest urban area, now a 90-minute train ride northwest of Helsinki. The cotton mills closed in the 1990s, and offices, restaurants, and cultural attractions, such as the Finnish Labour Museum, moved in. The Spy Museum here displays Cold War curiosities: miniature cameras and several cunningly disguised weapons. Summer draws out locals for canoeing, swimming, and hiking, but winter may be the time to experience the city at its natural best. Strap on a pair of sawtoothed snowshoes for a walk on frozen Lake Näsijärvi. Try your hand at ice-fishing. Steam yourself at a pinewood sauna on Lake Pyhäjärvi, then dare winter swimming at a section of the lake kept ice free. Best for Outdoor winter fun. Must-see museum Tampere
Lenin Museum, the building in which Lenin and Stalin first met in 1905. Also try Oulu, Finland, the self-styled “capital of northern Scandinavia,” ideal for summer canoe tours.
Jens Schwarz/laif/Redux (beer hall), Cubo Images/superstock (statue)
Industrialisation
In Focus |
urban s pi r i t
Merry-go-round coat rack at Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, Rotterdam
rot terdam , the ne therl ands
wiped off the map by the German airforce in World War II, Rotterdam bounced back with a creative confidence few European cities can match. You see it in the Erasmus Bridge, which looks like a giant modernist swan, and in Piet Blom’s iconic cube houses—you can visit Number 70, but the rest remain occupied low-cost homes. That innovative spirit also reveals itself in the alien-looking Shipping and Transport College, best seen from a water taxi as you speed along the Nieuwe Maas tributary. Other beloved old buildings enjoy a new lease on life, such as the Hotel New York, once headquarters of the Holland America Line. Its neighbours include Norman Foster’s glistening World Port Center. In one of the city’s oldest districts, find the new Westelijk Handelsterrein, a glass-roofed arcade with some of the finest gallerAfter being nearly
Zipping around Europe on planes was uncommon for the budget traveller before RyanAir and easyJet debuted their no-frills flights in the late 1990s. Today, flying travel by plane
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ies, shops, and bars in Rotterdam. The Boijmans Museum here collects a treasure trove of contemporary art and design. As the sun begins to set, take a walk across the Erasmus Bridge toward Renzo Piano’s KPN Telecom Office Tower and see it spring to life—its facade animated by a grid of 896 24-volt lights dancing in glittering patterns. Like Blom’s skewed houses, this exemplifies Rotterdam design at its best—bold, dazzling, and with a crackling sense of humour. Best for Cutting-edge contemporary design and architecture. Main event International Architecture Biennale Rotterdam opens
May 2016 in the Rem Koolhaas-designed Kunsthal. Also try Copenhagen, Denmark, with its wealth of noteworthy modern buildings.
within the Continent can be cheaper than taking the train, thanks to the slew of startups and legacy airlines that have riffed on the low-cost model. Most specialise in regional short hauls, such as the Barcelona-based
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | december 2015
Vueling, which flies throughout Spain and to major cities like Brussels and Rome, and Hop!, a subsidiary of Air France connecting smaller cities within France, including Nantes and Lille, to the rest of Europe.
Elian Somers
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That New Design Trend? It Started Here
■ euro pe
LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND
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Bridges with Dancing Skeletons
van der meer rene/prisma/dinodia (bridge), peter vrabel/shutterstock (chocolate)
Early travellers to Lucerne, plagued by its heavy rain, regarded the city as Europe’s chamberpot. Locals however, call it a city of iridescent raindrops and have even modelled a delicious kirschfilled chocolate drop called the Lozärner Rägetröpfli after their weather. A late autumn afternoon in Lucerne is an Impressionist’s canvas. On one side of town, Mount Pilatus emerges from its cloud cover. On the other, a burnt sienna canopy of trees stands guard over the River Reuss and its army of trumpeting swans. The medieval bridge of Spreuerbrücke arches over the water and dappled light falls on its panels painted with gaily costumed skeletons, dancing, singing and even duelling in this strange suspension between death and a manic humour. A little further down the river, travellers wind their way across Kappelbrücke (Chapel Bridge) with bags of roasted chestnuts, towards the canopies and terraces of raucous pubs on the Rathausquai. Lucerne’s chic boutiques and byzantine lanes wrap around squares rich in stories. Paintings on houses record the quirks of drunk patrons of the carnival, and a poetic sculpture of a dying lion pays tribute to Swiss martyrs. An old clock tower boasts the privilege of chiming the passage of time a full minute before the eight others in a city otherwise obsessed with precision. This precision is the cornerstone of every exhibit in the Swiss Museum of Transport, one of Lucerne’s proudest modern structures and an interactive experience through the history of man negotiating land, water, and sky.
Best for Rambling walks. Main Event
The annual Lucerne Carnival before Ash Wednesday where nothing is at it seems. Masked musicians and floats come out into the streets and revellers sing, dance and drink the famous Lucerne Coffee. Also try Basel, Switzerland, a curious mix of the old and the new with surprising street art installations and a vibrant life on the River Rhine.
The triangular arches inside Lucerne’s 13th-century Spreuerbrücke (Spreuer Bridge) has paintings representing the Danse Macabre. The paintings inside this covered wooden bridge feature different aspects of medieval life. What is common to all of them is a grinning skeleton reminding passersby of the inevitability of death. december 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
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short breaks 114
from delhi Centuries-old palaces and other curiosities in Jhalawar, Rajasthan
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stay Secluded Kerala beaches and a taste of a Malayali home
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stay An erstwhile haveli in Gujarat becomes a heritage homestay
Forgotten Land
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long, bumpy road leads to dusty Jhalawar in the Hadoti region of southeastern Rajasthan. At first, the remote town seems largely nondescript, a highway-pit stop at the most. But beneath the dust that blankets this region are rare architectural and cultural gems. Its monuments aren’t in the best condition, but their heritage value is undeniable. There are eighth-century sculptures, a hill fort that is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and medieval, rock-cut Buddhist caves, the only ones in the state. To the traveller, these are clues to deciphering the many communities that have lived here. Jhalawar town was named after the Jhalas, a clan of Rajput Chauhan warriors. Founded in 1791 it was initially part of the kingdom of Kota. The Jhalas also built the trading village of Jhalrapatan on Jhalawar’s outskirts. This walled village rose atop the ruins of the me-
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dieval city of Chandravati, which was destroyed in the 18th century, save for a few seventh-century temples. An English officer who visited Jhalrapatan in December 1821 noted in his travel journal, that it had 108 temples. Even today, the few travellers that make it here encounter carefully tended to vermilion-smeared deities at every corner. In winter, the countryside between Jhalawar and the nearby city of Bhawani Mandi is flush with orange-laden orchards and fields of dancing poppies, perfect for leisurely walks. History apart, Jhalawar yields a rich experience of Rajasthani culture. Untarnished, its restaurants still serve traditional food, rather than generic North Indian fare. Its monuments and bazaars are free of camera-toting travellers. This is its biggest draw: In a world where nearly every place has been visited and extensively documented, Jhalwar still feels like a discovery.
Jhalawar has a rocky but waterladen landscape fed by the Ahu and Kalisindh rivers that form a natural defence for the eighth-century Gagron Fort.
guiziou franck/hemis.fr/getty images
in a little corner of rajasthan, lies the historic town of jhalawar | By Ambika Gupta
EXPLORE Glorious Past Sprawling Garh Palace is at the centre of Jhalawar.
Built between 1838 and 1864, the resplendent cream and terracotta palace is currently undergoing renovation so some sections are closed to tourists. I enjoyed strolling through its endless corridors, walking in its peaceful grounds, and visiting the museum located on the first floor. At first glance the museum doesn’t seem like much, but it houses a spectacular collection of sculptures excavated from the lost city of Chandravati, over which the present-day village of Jhalrapatan stands (7 kilometres south). They date from the 8th to the 18th centuries. For me the most striking among them were the frightening representations of goddess Chamunda brandishing skulls and decapitated heads. Glass cases display antiquated artillery, illustrated leaf-based manuscripts, and miniature horses and elephants dressed for battle. One of the delightful curiosities I saw was a vintage penny-farthing, the wobbly bicycle that was all
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The village of Jhalrapatan has numerous temples, among which the ancient Chandrabhaga temple (top right) and Sun temple (bottom right) hold pride of place; The latter has intricate carvings that look especially beautiful at dusk.
the rage in Europe in the 1870s. It has a comically large front wheel and a tiny back one (museum open 10 a.m.4.30 p.m., closed Monday; entry `10). Don’t miss Bhawani Natya Shala, a theatre located on the palace grounds, that is an eccentric indulgence built by Maharaja Bhawani Singh in A.D. 1921. It’s patterned on grand European opera houses and though it has fallen into disrepair, visitors can wander through its cavernous hall. The grand opera hall with its arched galleries and private balconies is a rather odd sight in the middle of rural Rajasthan. Once a Stronghold Gagron Fort (14 km/20 min north of Jhalawar) is one of
Rajasthan’s six hill forts that together form a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The fort is surrounded by the Ahu and Kalisindh rivers on three sides, and guarded by a deep moat on the fourth. To reach it, we cross a narrow bridge. It’s a rare example of a jal-van durg, a fort protected by both water and forest. An astounding feature of the fort is that it has no foundation: It is simply seated on a hillock of the Aravalli range without any december 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
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Olaf Krüger/imageBROKER/dinodia (sculptures), dinodia (women), IP-Black/indiapicture (temple)
Heritage Holiday
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roots to tether it to the ground. A fringe benefit is the blue-green panorama visible from the ramparts. Spread over three square kilometres, the fort is enclosed within triple fortification walls. The innermost boundary is built in the form of a labyrinth. Successive occupiers between the 8th and 18th centuries added to its fortifications. But even so, Gagron was not impregnable. As a result, it was the site of two grim incidents of the practice of jauhar, in which the women of the palace immolated themselves to avoid capture by enemy armies. Visitors can see the macabre jauhar kund (tank) right next to the palaces and pavilions of the deserted citadel. City of Bells Jhalarapatan (7 km/10 min south) is an ancient vil-
lage that was built in 1792 by Jhalawar’s founder, Jhala Zalim Singh. It was an important junction on a caravan route and he was keen to turn it into a flourishing centre of trade. To protect the village’s residents from pindaris or local dacoits who haunted the trade route, it was enclosed within walls. Walking through a giant arched gateway to enter the village I can see temples everywhere. It’s easy to see
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Jhalawar’s highlight is the lovely Garh Palace, with beautiful sitouts (top left) which overlook the busy market where you can get flavourful Rajasthani red chillies (top right); The palace also has a museum that contains rare manuscripts decorated with beautiful calligraphy and drawings (bottom left) and the doublestoreyed, Europeaninspired Opera Hall (bottom right).
why a visiting British colonel nicknamed it the “city of bells”. The evening air reverberates with the peal of bells from scores of temples. It is impossible to walk even 10 metres without passing a shrine. Few are very old and date to the city of Chandravati which existed at this spot before. Some of the temples are big, while others are small corner shrines or a single statue under a tree. Regardless of size, each one is attended to and looked after, decorated with silver foil and surrounded by diyas. High up on a hill east of Jhalrapatan is Navlakha Fort, built in 1860 by Jhalawar’s second ruler, Jhala Prithvi Singh. It is one of the last forts constructed in Rajasthan and is now abandoned save for the pretty, white Anand Dham temple with saffron banners fluttering in the wind. Though little remains of the once handsome fort, visitors can still see and admire the lovely floral motifs and detailed, if damaged, elephant carvings on a gate that still stands. At dusk, when the sky is shot with burnt orange and mauve streaks, take a boat ride on Gomti Sagar Lake, with the sound of chiming bells carrying on the rippling surface (opp. Herbal Garden; `50 a head for a 15min ride; 10 a.m.-6 p.m.).
ambika gupta (palace, book, & hall), Olaf Krüger/imageBROKER/dinodia (chillies)
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One of Jhalrapatan’s most striking sights is the Padmanabh Mandir or sun temple, a spot of serenity in a busy square choc-a-bloc with flower sellers and shops selling religious paraphernalia. It has a spire that’s 97 feet high, and astonishingly detailed carvings of celestial beings and floral patterns adorn the façade, interiors, steps, and 52 ornamental pillars. Its three side entrances have carved torans—decorative gateways distinctive of Hindu and Buddhist architecture. Long stemmed bells carved in stone snake down walls, and at the back of the temple is a statue of Lord Padmanabh donning knee-high boots. Nearby is another heavyweight, the Chandrabhag or Chandravati temple, located on the bank of the seasonal Chandrabhag River. The seventh-century structure, which is located in a garden near a huge banyan tree, is nearly in ruins, yet it commands an impressive following. Five shivalings stand in a row at the front. Locals come here for walks or to sit on benches and soak in the peaceful atmosphere. In contrast, the entrance to Sri Shantinath Digambar Jain temple is painted in bright pink and turquoise colours. Built in A.D. 1046, it is located on a narrow road in the heart of the village and has a towering 92-foot-tall spire. Fine murals decorate the walls and two life-size elephant statues stand guard at the sanctum sanctorum, their glazed, white trunks raised in salute.
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the guide orientation
Jhalawar is located on the edge of the Malwa Plateau, close to Rajasthan’s border with Madhya Pradesh. It is 233 km north of Indore, 330 km south of Jaipur, and 608 km south of Delhi.
Getting there
By Air The closest airport is at Indore, which has daily connections with major cities. Taxis charge `3,500 one-way for the 233 km/4.5 hr journey to Jhalawar. By Rail Trains from Delhi, Mumbai, and Jaipur travel through Jhalawar Road, a small railhead 27 km/40 min from Jhalawar (taxis charge `1,000 one-way; buses leave every hour). By Road Jhalawar is 608 km/11 hr south of Delhi on NH8 and NH12, via Jaipur and Kota.
Getting Around
Unmetered autos are a convenient way to travel from Jhalawar to Jhalrapatan (`100 one-way) and within the town. There are local buses from Jhalawar to Jhalrapatan every half hour (`10 one-way).
seasons
The weather in Jhalawar is most pleasant between September and March. In the winter (Oct-Feb) days are comfortable though nights are chilly at 1°C. Summer (Mar-Jun) is scorching with average highs of 45°C. From July to September the area gets about 95 cm of rain, which is more than most of Rajasthan, turning the countryside green.
Dwarika Hotel is conveniently located in the heart of the city on NH12. Rooms are basic but clean, and the staff is hospitable (NH12, near Medical College; 07432-232626; bharatjwr@rediffmail.com; doubles from `990.)
Eat
Jhalawar has only a few restaurants, but they dish out authentic Rajasthani meals of dal bhati churma and sev tamatar. The rooftop restaurant at Prithvi Vilas Palace offers a wonderful dining experience. Try their ameen ki dal, a variation of moong dal named after its “inventor” chef Ameen (`1,000 for a meal for two). december 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
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aashna jhaveri (map)
STAY
Prithvi Vilas Palace is the magnificent residence of Jhalawar’s erstwhile royal family who are the hosts. The mansion is over a century old and located in a quiet corner of Jhalawar, about a kilometre from Garh Palace (Civil Lines; 98913 49555; jhalawar1@yahoo.com; doubles from `8,500, including meals).
Inspire |
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russia mongolia
Five Flower Lake india
China
Five Flower Lake,
Submerged plants, colourful algae, and travertine—a form of limestone—give the Five Flower Lake in China’s Sichuan province its mesmerising hues of blue, green, and yellow. This vast waterbody is part of the rugged UNESCO World Heritage Site of Jiuzhaigou Valley in southwest China. Jiuzhaigou means “nine villages” and only about 1,000 residents live across the 720 square kilometres of its distinctive conical karst landscape punctuated with roaring waterfalls. The ecosystems of Jiuzhaigou Valley are as diverse as they are spectacular: Coniferous forests, limestone terraces, and craggy mountains that are home to many endangered species of plants and animals such as the giant panda and the goat-like takin. Travellers who visit Five Flower Lake are able to witness the unique traditions and way of life of the valley’s locals who practice the Benbo Sec religion, a sect of Tibetan Buddhism. As seasons change, Jiuzhaigou’s deciduous trees change colour and alter the landscape dramatically. Little wonder then that the valley is known as the “Land of Fairy Tales” and the “King of Waterscapes.” —Kareena Gianani
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Sichuan, China
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