MONO by Nathan Henry

mono

issue one

mono

contents Graphic Design by Polly-Ann Duff

issue one

5Editors Letter

17 a r m y o u r s e l f Holly Knowles investigates into metallic armour based clothing

A note from Editor in Chief Nathan Henry

9 news feed MONO news feed, all the latest events from the past month

culture

viv for virgin An ongoing debate about the discrimination towards women in the work environment. The MONO team tell all about their experiences in different countries

29 b e a u t y 29

Experimenting with bright and bold colours for that alter ego look.

features

MONO interviews proffesionals working within different fields of the industry

interview with 74 Exclusive grunge rave band Crim3s

cover

61 f l y i n m y m i l k Using strong silhouettes to represent David Bowie’s love for fashion

69 F E S T I V A L G U I D E Discovering festivals in a different countries with a step by step guide Shot by Nathan Henry Model featured Tina Wang

See inside for full photoshoot

The Edit ors let ter

In modern times is there any reason to look back? To name a few, Inspiration. The main reason we’re here, it’s what drives us to pursue our dreams. Constantly giving us something to strive towards, as students we’re perpetually learning and growing so one day we can be inspiring. Idols are a massive source of inspiration to us and this is shown by us paying tribute people such as David Bowie and Baz Lurhmann in this issue. Thankfully futuristic to me means more than running ahead, it’s more about how you take an idea. How you translate it and work with it. Take Baz Luhrmann he’s done it plenty of times taking classic stories reworking them and creating magic. That’s not to say anything new isn’t a positive, try finding a mix of brand new futuristic and your futuristic even if your reference isn’t so modern. It’s all about interpretation and creation.

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Kate Bosworth creates Topshop Collaboration Topshop have confirmed that their next collection will feature on the ‘discovery of music’ and secret pop up gigs worldwide. So who better to face the brand than festivals main goer Kate Bosworth, with her eclectic, boho chic style Kate has worker alongside Topshop designers to release her own range of signature pieces. Available in store now.

Rooney Mara faces Calvin Klein’s latest campaign Rooney Mara has been announced as the face of new Calvin Klein fragrance, Downtown. The 28 year old was revealed as the fragrances new poster girl after attending the brands Cannes party on the 17th May. The signing is the ‘Girl with the Dragon Tattoo’ actress’ first major campaign. The fragrance is said to be available in UK stores this summer. 9

The worlds first Armani Cafe Giorgio Armani has opened the first Armani pop up cafe on the Croisette whilst the Cannes Film Festival is taking place, the cafe stocks a variety of Armani branded food and drink. Debuting alongside the opening of the Giorgio Armani boutique in Cannes the cafe is housed right next door and practices a more stylish, formal ascetic in contrast with the already popular Emporio Armani Caffe chain. The new Giorgio Armani boutique and Cafe are located on 42 La Croisette, Cannes.

Lee Broom designs new Christian Louboutin concession at Harrods Renowned interior designer Lee Broom has designed the new Christian Louboutin space in Harrods. Like other Louboutin stores, the space draws inspiration from the city in which it is located in, with the London city scrape playing an important role in the design. Lee Broom commented ‘It has been an honour to design the new store for Christian Louboutin in Harrods, I have always been a huge admirer of his work and I am delighted to be designing this space in one of the most famous department stores in the world. I have enjoyed drawing on my fashion background and creating a magical space that has a real sense of drama and escapism.’ An archway entrance leads into sections of the store that imitate famous London ladmarks, from the Covent Garden Opera house to the clock face of Big Ben. The Christian Louboutin Boutique is located on the first floor of Harrods.

The Cannes Festival jewellery heist Over €1,000,000 (£650,000) worth of jewellery has been stolen from a Cannes hotel. Chopard, best known for its elaborate and luxurious designs, with a price tag to match had been due to loan out the jewellery to stars attending the annual festival. Thieves made off with an entire safe full, taken from a Chopard employee’s room on the 17th May, just two days after the festival began on the 15th. The employee, whose room was involved, is currently being questioned by police.

Versus collection JW Anderson

Versace re-launched the Versus collection with a bang on Wednesday 15th May, showcasing studs and sultry sequins at the prestigious Lexington Avenue Armoury, New York City. JW Anderson’s contribution to the collection, no less than expected, included crop tops and slashed ensembles decorated with safety pins and all things nineties. After the showcase the venue turned into a nightclub with performances by Angel Haze, Grimes and Dead Sara

Angelina Jolie undergoes double mastectomy Angelina Jolie is best known for being one of Hollywood’s highest demand actresses; she is the epitome of a sultry sex siren as well as being a political genius. When news broke that she has recently undergone a double mastectomy the 37 year old explained to The New York Times that being a carrier of the BRCA1 gene, it was to reduce her 87% risk of contracting breast cancer, from which her mother had died with at the age of 56. She commented ‘My mother fought cancer for almost a decade and died at 56. She held out long enough to meet the first of her grandchildren and to hold them in her arms. But my other children will never have the chance to know her and experience how loving and gracious she was.’

J.Crew comes to London Many of us covet the cutting edge designs that J.Crew have to offer, so we were overjoyed to discover the opening of a pop up store at London’s King’s Cross as well as a collaboration with Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. J.Crew are also offering one CSM MA student a scholarship every year for the next three years, chosen by creative director Jenna Lyons and MA fashion course director Louise Wilson, covering tuition fees and accommodation for the year. J.Crew’s London flagship store will be opening on Regent Street in November.

Daniella Helayel’s farewell to Issa Issa shot to stardom in late 2010 when Kate Middleton announced her engagement wearing the infamous royal (ahem) blue wrap dress. After seven successful years working with the brand, founder Danielle Helayel has said goodbye to pursue other projects. She commented.Creating Issa has been one of the most rewarding things in my life. I may be leaving, but the Issa girl will live forever in my heart. Replacing Daniella will be Blue Farrier, who has previously worked for the likes of Chloe, Anya Hindmarch and Stella McCartney.

w h e r e d o y o u r c l o t h e s c o m e f r o m ? Raking in £13billion a year and catering to High Street giants such as Primark and Matalan, Bangladesh is the third largest clothing producer in the world. Recent news highlights two major devastations to the Country, including a collapsed factory building and a fatal fire, with the death toll at over 1000 in two short weeks, just who is to blame? The 24th of April saw an eight-storey building in Savar, on the outskirts of Dhakar collapse and crumble, killing what was thought to be around 230 workers. The building housed five garment factories, including clothing for High Street brands such as Primark, Matalan and Benetton. Two weeks on the death toll has risen to an astonishing number of over 1000 of the workers who had attended the building on what they thought was just another day of work, and there are still hundreds of people un-accounted for. The 9th of May, another horrific incident, which led to eight factory workers, also from Dhakar, loosing their lives as a deadly fire swept through a factory floor which was supposedly illegally still manufacturing after the legal government hours. Property tycoon and owner of the building in Savar, Mohammed Sohel Rana was arrested four days after the collapse trying to flee to India, he is being held on charges of negligence, illegal construction and forcing workers to join work. Sohel Rana was given planning permission to build a five storey building but illegally built three more floors, large cracks are said to have appeared in the sides of the building just days before it collapsed and workers from other departments had been told not to enter the building, but Mohammed had ensured workers that the building was safe to enter. So just who are the people in charge of carrying out regular health and safety checks on these clothing factories and why was Rana Plaza allowed to still

operate regardless of the gaping cracks in the foundations? The Bangladesh government are following with an investigation of around 5’000 garment factories in the country but have not issued any details of exactly what these health and safety regulations are. The CEO of Benetton has since admitted to buying small quantities of clothing from Rana Plaza for the brand and knew that the garments we’re coming from an illegally constructed factory, he issued a statement, “It’s not the solution to go outside from Bangladesh or to think in the future we can leave Bangladesh,” said Chiarolanza. “I spent some period of my life in this part of the world, and I believe -I really believe -Benetton and other international brands can help these countries improve their condition. But we need a safe and happy working environment and we need to have better conditions.” Primark, another brand linked to the disaster at Rana Plaza have said they will be paying compensation to the workers and their families who had worked for their supplier New Wave Style. A spokesman for the brand reported ‘We are fully aware of our responsibility, we have partnered with a local NGO to address the immediate needs of the victims, including the provision of emergency food aid to families. This initiative began in Bangladesh immediately after the extent of the disaster became clear.’ 12

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Emily Vinter and Nathan Henry debate descrimination of women in the workplace Virgin airways employees are best known for their pristine red lips and uniform attire, the famed red ensembles have become a staple for holiday makers when traveling to luxurious destinations. Vivienne Westwood is to redesign the famed, iconic red uniforms, with what seems like a strange pairing, given Westwoods obvious love for eccentric style and design 7,500 members of staff including Pilots, cabin crew, Clubhouse staff and Virgin Holiday employees will be showcasing the new designs from July 2013, just in time for the holiday season, before they make their official launch in 2014. Richard Branson stated ‘The one person in this world who could create unique designs is Vivienne, so it’s great to be working with her. What we don’t want to do is work with anyone who comes up with a design and just dumps it on the cabin crew. It’s glamorous, it’s stylish.’ In contrast with this news in a current debate regarding the new Virgin Trains uniform, which has been delayed to be introduced to the members of staff after female employees 13

complained about the blouses being too low cut and flimsy. The issue first came to light when the uniforms were being trailed on the West Coast Main Line. The Rail Operator who address these types of problems how now issued female staff with a £20 voucher to buy suitable undergarments to save them feeling uncomfortable or embarrassed, but in a world where women feel constantly undermined, does this type of scenario class as discrimination?

For:

Discrimination in the workplace has often been a controversial factor for women, we have had to fight for years for what is rightly ours. Women who must work in uniforms should be given the right to feel comfortable when doing so, i’m sure that no man would be simply made to purchase ‘suitable undergarments’ if he felt his suit trousers were too flimsy and unsuitable. In this particular case the female employees are said to

be upset with the fact that they feel as though Richard Branson is cutting corners with the quality of their uniforms simply to save on costs, however when you are a widely popular business man worth millions, surely the comfort of your employees would be a main factor, especially when they are the ones keeping your money empire flowing? Branson also being a married man and father to a daughter should thoroughly understand the importance when it comes to women feeling comfortable in their clothing. I believe that the uniform should be re-designed with a better quality of material used for the sake of the staff, who, after all, are the ones who will be wearing the designs for 48 odd weeks a year.

Against:

Does this count as discrimination, in my opinion no. Clearly there is more a problem here with the design of the female uniform rather than women being discriminated against, possibly something

Virgin should think acting upon. Although by offering their female staff vouchers to buy more suitable undergarments are they not then acting upon this problem? I think the problem lies more with issue around comfort and body issues rather than issues to do with gender, also would this argument be an issue if it was from a male perspective? Clearly women have made complaints about their uniform but do they feel like its discrimination, has it been done or purpose or is it just a design flaw. With women feeling as though corners are being cut with their uniform then why, are they annoyed that a flimsy fabric has been used an they expect a better quality working from such a huge business man. If they have been given help to find more suitable and comfortable undergarments is their still an issue, they’ve voiced their opinions and action has been taken. So do female staff think this enough or do they want more? 14

c h r i s t o p h e r r a e b u r n ’ s f e s t i v a l p r o j e c t Christopher Raeburn is a designer best known for his simplistic and sporty collections for both men and women. His favourite trademarks being nylon, aertex and constructed panelling, Raeburn has teamed up with Swiss brand Victorinox for a new collaboration ‘Festival Project’ – Emily Vinter reports.. Christopher Raeburn is a lover of UK based festivals and has been to pretty much everything for Glastonbury to The Secret Garden Party. Having been to a variety of different gigs, which attract an array of different cultures, groups and individuals; there is one this that he has always found to be shockingly common, the level of waste. Raeburn quoted ‘Often tents and clothing are simply discarded and I was keen to work on some good quality products that would really be functional and that people would want to keep and use time and again.’ The Festival Project capsule collection includes 11 pieces, featuring all your festival essentials such as a tent, a women poncho, a men’s gillet, and a Swiss army knife, a product for which Victorinox are known for manufacturing. The products are designed to be functional yet fashionable and are made from recycled yet sustainable materials, the range comes in a signature print which is made up of the iconic Victorinox shield and cross logo, so your tent will always be easy to spot in a crowded campsite. A smart phone app for festivalgoers will also be available with the collection; Festival Ready provides maps of specific festival campsites and uses GPS signals to create 3D images of your campsite, to prevent you from getting lost. The app is available on the iTunes store and on Google Play for android phones.

The Christopher Raeburn ‘Festival Project’ is available via Victorinox X Editions UK e-boutique, prices range from £38 to £250. 16

A R M Y O U R S E L F Holly Knowles investigates a generation of technological advances which only seems to be becoming greater. Clothing not only gives us status, it can ensure a barrier against the world, and create a status we desire. I have always been a firm believer that clothing gives us the ability to extend our personality to the world without even saying a word. London is naturally gloomy and dark in the winter months, which translates onto everyones faces walking through tubes during rush hour you are bombarded with solum faces and dark clothing, which is a natural reaction to this kind of weather. People are becoming inaccessible through clothing; so it was about time that designers started understanding this concept and creating pieces that enabled us to represent style and function, with the ability to ‘arm ourselves’ against the world.

The big question is, do we really want to create more reason to be inaccessible; with the use of technology we rarely have time to even see one another so why would we want to create even more reason to hinder these chances? We will happily spend a full day in the confinement of our own company, sit on the tube with nothing but the sound of our trusted music choices transcending through our ears and become immediately agitated when one disrupts that. But fashion is there to speak up and be bold, other 17

than the fact that it looks great, this can be a chance for the fashion world to develop and try something new, and London is the perfect city to try and test. Architecture on clothing has never been more on point, incorporating these elements, along with art, music and culture creates a really strong backbone for the world of fashion. I was first introduced to this concept by Hussein Chalayan, who really captured a range of architectural elements in his RTW Spring collection in 2007, a real test of technology, but equally a step in this developing direction of armour. A direct translation into jewellery, Balenciaga demonstrates the beautiful gold rings on the four fingers which directly reflects some sort of knuckle shield - obviously trickling down into all the high street stores thus creating a mass of knuckle shield inspired rings. No longer do we have the one ring finger to enforce your joint partnership, no, one ring is not enough; every finger is now dressed. Oliver Rousteing has embraced extreme silhouettes, harsh metallics and indestructible embellishments in his RTW a/w 2013 for Balmain,

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made for a women who exudes femininity yet power. Don’t mistake me, this isn’t an article of the beauty of metallic clothing, metallics is a recurring theme of fashion, its becoming as predictable as floral in the summer months and black in the winter. Armour extends so much further than that, it extends right through to the core of our independent [and slightly abrasive] personalities. I feel fashion has the ability to transform at any moment, perhaps we are headed for a amour filled future. Women in suits are no longer acceptable to create a status worthy of obeying; we are searching for something more.

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the 5:2 diet With what seems like an ongoing battle and ever-changing theory of what the perfect diet plan and healthy figure is, a majority of us women have been there, done that, and more often that not, been disappointed with the results that so many diet plans claim to work. [MONO] investigates into the new diet craze which claims to help you loose and stone and banish cellulite in just six weeks. Skeptical? We certainly were, Emily Vinter reports.. Anyone who has ever gone on a diet plan knows that they don’t work, although they may deliver results in the short term, women soon become bored with eating just protein, or a no carbs diet. Life should not restrict your ability to enjoy food. However a vast growing number of people have tried this diet plan to great effect, and the reason to why it works? There is no boredom involved.

The 5:2 Diet plan claims to help you reap the benefits by following three simple rules. Rule one, is to fast. The concept of the 5:2 diet is to eat normally but healthily for five days of the week, including 3 good sized meals a day, and a slice of cake for pudding, no guilt involved! Rule two, for two days a week too eat only 500 calories, on each of two non- consecutive days per week. A good idea would be to split 500 calories over 3 small meals throughout the day, resulting in around 200 calories each. Rule three, to exercise for 30 minuets three times a week, but be sure to exercise on non- fasting days. Exercise as lightly or intense as what your body is used to. So why fast? Many people relate ‘fasting’ as another term for simply starving yourself, however ‘Intermittent Fasting’ which is used in this particular diet plan means voluntarily abstaining from eating, but only for short periods of time. This basically means that your body does not hold onto unwanted fat that comes with continuous starvation. So where does the cellulite busting part come into this diet? This type of fasting see that the side-effects that come with it are all good. Cellulite is a type of body fat which deposits itself, typically, into thighs, hips and bum, producing a dimpled, orange peel effect to the skins

surface. The science bit - An excess of insulin is one of the main triggers for these deposits of fat into these parts of your body, intermittent fasting is proven to reduce insulin levels in the body and by doing so slows down the body’s ability to deposit this fatty acid. Which means, less cellulite! With the eldest man ever to have lived celebrating his birthday of 116 years last month the world wanted to know what Mr Jiroemon Kimuta’s secret was to a long and healthy life, he commented that his motto in life is ‘to eat light and live long’.The centenarian does not smoke, only drinks a ‘modest’ amount of alcohol, and has ensured that he only eats until he is 80% full.Mr Kimura is one of a huge 95 people who this year, will be the age of 100 or over, in his home city of Kyotango, in Japan. This suggests that it is not specifically the quantity of food that we eat, but the quality, being accustomed to a different cuisine could be an important factor into the longevity of Mr KImura’s life, strengthening the argument of the 5:2 diet to eat normally, yet healthily. For people with good health this type of diet should be no problem, however there are some groups in which intermittent fasting is not advised. Type 1 diabetics are included, along side with anyone suffering from an eating disorder, this diet plan is designed for people over the age of 18, children should never fast. Pregnant women should eat according to government guidelines and should never restrict their daily calorie intake. If you have any other concerns with your health of take any sort of medication, consult with you doctor first before partaking in any sort of weight- loss regime.

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post cards to home Style is a universal thing, as well as fashion and art it’s all out there waiting to be discovered. Seeing various street style photographs from London, Japan, Paris and New York we sit in amazement at these people’s uniqueness, almost waiting to obtain a part of their culture. But why? Why try and feel their culture through a photograph when culture is an experience. What has happened to us that we’d prefer to sit here at computers looking at different places, their styles, their culture, their art and fashion. Instead why not go there and experience it, feel it, do it, live it and love it. We live on a planet made up of so many cultures, why not make the most of it and enjoy something unique, go to Japan and visit Harajuku Station or feel the romance in Paris home of couture. With so many experiences to see, we visited four very different locations to tick off your travel list.

Berlin

A city alive with passion for art, music, culture and fashion, Berlin has been on the up over the past few years and is now more than ever the must go to place. Polly-Ann Duff reports... Over the past five years we have slowly but surely been hearing exciting things about Berlin being the new up and coming place to be, most especially in terms of fashion, music and art. As always the fashion and music scene come hand in hand in this vibrant city. Berlin being host to some of the world’s best house and tech music events with the biggest names in the deep house scene, it brings an influx of effortlessly cool and stylish people. On arrival you can just feel the excitement and passion in the air, the roads are full of cyclists and the pavements scattered with parked bicycles. It really does have a strong city feel to it. If the vibrant and busy cluttered streets aren’t exciting enough for you to explore, you can talk one of the many walking tours available around the city’s famous landmarks. I opted for the ‘walking Reichstag tour.’ As soon as you begin to discover the history surrounding the amazing and beautiful landmarks covering the city, from visiting the area of Hitler’s bunker to seeing the original brick of the Berlin Wall, the fascinating and somewhat poignant tales from the past

are sure to shock. If you are a passionate history enthusiast there isn’t a part of the city that doesn’t hold an interesting tale. Of course if the walking tour isn’t for you, you can always walk down the famous colourful, art covered Berlin Wall and get your classic tourist photos along side it. At night time is when the city really comes to life… except you wouldn’t actually know it. The key to experience the Berlin nightlife to its full is to not be a tourist. The house scene in Berlin is very much so wanted kept ‘underground’ by the people involved. Criticised to be ‘music snobs’ the people who created deep house music want tourists and ‘wannabes’ kept far away from this exclusive trendy scene. If you are lucky enough to experience it though it is something in which you could never imagine. Although this scene fashionably is beginning to be criticised as being ‘too hipster’ the actual underground scene still has people who are in it purely for the love of the music and not for the image of the scene. Anything fashion, art if history related Berlin is the place to be, now more than ever. 22

h c e k a r Mar CULTURE

Abbie Niroomand-Rad visits Marrakech... As I wait in the dull, rainy airport at Gatwick, I couldn’t help but wish I could teleport to the gorgeous heat of Morocco. Instead I wait with my boyfriend at my side for our seat number to be called. Although Morocco is only a short three hour flight away, my nerves begin to get the best of me. After reading up on the culture Morocco is famous for, I am sure to pack appropriate clothing. I am wearing plain black leggings with a baggy white t-shirt and a denim jacket. As we arrive at Marrakech Menara Airport I am stunned by the heat as its just turned 9 o’clock at night here in Marrakech. We load up our bags and head to our coach, filled with excitement and enthusiasm. As

we approach our crammed coach, we are immediately hassled by five or six Moroccan men pleading to take our bags. As I politely refuse, one man comes up from behind me and snatches my suitcase from my hands, instinctively I run to chase after him, only to find him placing it next to my designated coach. As I reach him he insists on 100 dirham (£10) for his unwanted assistance. Reluctantly, I reach into my pocket and hand him over the money and within a flash he has disappeared. After a long, hot journey we finally reach our destination. The coach slows down approaching a beautiful drive through of the five star resort, ClubHotel Riu Tikida Palmeraie. My first impressions of

Morocco are instantly forgotten and my mind has wandered over to the beautiful scenery. As we enter the luxurious resort, we are offered iced cocktails and shown to our room. We cross pass the olympic sized swimming pool and I’m immediately taken with this place. We wake at the crack of dawn and make our way to the restaurant for some fresh fruit and chilled orange juice. It’s 34 C as I lay myself down, ready to focus on getting the best tan of my life. Throughout the day I am constantly offered and served cocktails , water and juicy pineapple. On our forth day we decide to venture out of the hotel and make a day trip to the Moroccan Square. As we arrive at the infamous “square”, a tall lanky Moroccan man with three teeth immediately approaches us, demanding us to follow him. He constantly urges us on; eventually my boyfriend gives in and follows. Nervously I trail behind, curious as to what will happen next. After 10 minutes we finally approach what looks like an underground market, filled with tacky jewellery and knock off designer brands. He signals to us to enter, I shake my head and refuse to enter. In return he puts his hand out and demands money for his time and effort, feeling robbed, my boyfriend gives away another 200 dirham. Finally he leaves us alone but as I look around and I suddenly feel terrified with my heart racing we try to find our way out of the maze. We come across various different spices, smells and people. I relax as we find our way to the open market. An old man with a thick, large snake wrapped around his neck charges towards. When he’s face to face with us he unravels the snake, holding it gently and places it around my boyfriends’ neck. Without a flinch he holds still long enough to take a photo

and then quickly removes the vicious snake and hands it back to the owner. The old man looks me up and down and begins to run towards me with the snake, terrified I scream and run away to safety, leaving the two men to laugh at my expense. After spending 3 hours in the sun we look for shelter under an umbrella with two friendly old women offering to give us a henna tattoo. We accept and sit comfortably chatting with them. As we head towards the entrance of the market, we cross paths with a group of gymnastics performing an elegant display of acrobatics. Staring in amazement, I hear someone shouting “Sharkira” from behind me, only to realise they are calling at me. I turn to my boyfriend confused; he explains that because my skin has gradually become darker a lot of the Moroccan men assume I am Spanish or Cuban. I feel uneasy as I look around to notice the men are looking at me in an inappropriate way. As an escape I head towards a friendly looking man sitting outside a leather shop. I look up only to be amazed by the hundreds of leather bags hanging above my head. I’ve always been a big handbag fan and purchase two beautiful handmade leather bags there and then. On our journey back to the hotel resort I reminisce on what I had just experienced and feel thankful to be heading back to our fully air coned room. The next few days fly past and I feel very lucky to have spent such a magical week in such a cultural country. As we pack up our belongings to fly back to England, I feel disappointed that we are leaving so soon and wish we had another week. As we drive through the heat I look out my window and feel grateful to have visited such a beautiful country, promising myself I will come back soon.

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Whether your an avid lover of fashion, food, art, or just want to play tribute to the movies by experiencing all of the many tourist attractions this city has to offer, Holly Knowles tells all about New York...

My best friend and I set off to New York in February in the hope of experiencing fashion from a different perspective, essentially needing a difference in culture; and we achieved this and so much more! I feel New York is similar to any major city in the sense that on the surface you can discover all the sights built for visitors of the state, however once you have spent days walking and discovering new streets, quirky cafes and amazing boutiques, you can really begin to feel a personal attachment. The people living in New York are bold, brash and brilliant; if you don’t like bold this can at first be a little daunting, especially when you come from an island as small as England! On our third day, whilst we were still finding our feet we decided to do one of the most touristy things we could think of and visit the Empire State Building; which is one of the most spectacular sights you will ever see, a building complete with inspiring architecture and views that will leave you breathless, and I imagine it to be even more spectacular at night (a must see). After this we walked to the subway to spend the rest of the day shopping, the subway was relatively quiet, no-one was talking to one another so we thought it would be best to follow suit - third stop down the line a homeless man steps on, making a big commotion as he does, which essentially brings everyones attention to this area of the carriage 25

(where I was) he turned to me and stares for a few seconds in the most confused way, until eventually blurting out ‘WOW! Your hair is a MESS!” The majority of people sympathised with my embarrassment whilst others chuckled along with me… or at me, I couldn’t tell! All I wanted to do was shout that I had just been standing on the 86th floor of the Empire State so of course it was a mess! But yes, third day in and I learnt the meaning of ‘New Yorkers are bold’. One of the great things about New York is the ease of walking to most places, each of the streets and avenues are labeled clearly so it will be quite difficult to get lost. We used Times Square as a mid point to the majority of our days, the grand electronic billboards are quite spectacular to experience, and of course being loyal followers of ‘Friends’ we made a beeline for Central Park, spreading across 843 acres of land we quite happily spent a sunny day here without trouble. The sun was beaming on our faces making us incredibly content and happy, we no longer felt like we were in a busy city, the day was perfect for a trip to the Central Park zoo - (not as impressive as the Bronx Zoo, but touching to see!) In the winter months your able to go ice skating - a representation of Blair Waldorfs favourite pastime with her father. (Gossip Girl anyone?) A trip to New York would be incomplete without at least one trip to one of their world class museums, a great one that we started with is the Metropolitan Museum of Art which lays claim to an extensive global collection of

art. There were so many exhibitions and museums to see we were spoilt for choice, one the my favourites was Midtowns Museum of Modern art which houses some of the worlds most important modern artworks, and I will never forget the trip to Harlem, The Studio Museum in Harlem; showcasing the work of black artists. A great way to view the Statue of Liberty is to jump on the Staten Island Ferry, its a 25minute experience which took us from Lower Manhattan up to Staten Island. We loved seeing the Statue of Liberty from this distance, whilst taking in the Manhattan skyline! We must have made a new friend in every area we went, from shopping in Bloomingdales, eating lunch at the Trump residence to soaking up arts and culture across the bridge in Williamsburg! If you have watched Sex and the City, you will probably be familiar with The Meatpacking District, not as unglamorous as it sounds! Home to beautiful design boutiques, lovely restaurants and bars; and at night if compromises a late night fashion crowd but don’t forget your ID and brilliant negotiating skills as the guest lists are tight, Sex and the City makes it look easy! Emotional is one of those words that can’t quite describe the extent of what we felt when the mini cab beeped his horn from outside our hotel to take us to the airport, there was still so much to see, so many more to people to meet. But this was indeed the most fun I have had in a city. If you want a city break to remember I seriously recommend New York, it’s extraordinary.

e u g a Pr

Nathan Henry visits the cultural city of Prague... After what seemed like a lifetime we finally arrived in Prague, if anyone ever suggests a coach don’t do it just don’t! We arrived to glorious sunlight, after dropping off our bags we decided to walk around, see what was near our hotel. After about a ten minute walk into Prague we arrived at the Old Town Square which has to be one of the main must see places in Prague. As we arrived there was saw so many little street vendors selling little trinkets and some of the most beauty architecture I’ve ever seen. There’s something really special about Prague, its almost as if someone created it to be romantic and stay that way. Walking around the square we went to see the Astronomical Clock, which I guess is another of Prague’s main sights. I can only describe it as a creation of beauty, being over 600 years old it really shows and adds to the wonder of it. The clock towering above me just amazes me, stood as high as I can see it’s has so many different parts to each created beautifully. It had a ring with the symbols of the zodiac and a moon which reflect the moon’s orbit, as I gazed in amazement I realise more

and more details. One thing you have to do is be there as the clock rings on the hour, I never realised but there are these little animated figures on the clock which move every hour. They’re said to represent various hated things at the time of the clocks creation – vanity, greed, death and pleasure. When finding out about the clock I also heard there was a legend about the clock, if its upkeep and condition aren’t maintained then city will suffer, Moving on we went to see the Dali Exhibition which was on at the time, which obviously was amazing. I think the fact his work was on show and the whole beauty of Prague really creates great memories for me, it’s a city full of visual pleasure but then full of culture too. I just kept thinking there’s so many more little mysteries and stories about Prague to hear and keep hearing, I love it. As I’m walking we’re told about various shops to go into and especially a little bauble shop. The shop itself was tiny but it was filled with some of the most intricate things I’ve ever seen, literally trying not to buy everything I had to just collect things that were really special!

where next?

Brazil

London, Milan, Paris and New York; the four main fashion capitals of the world. But for how long? The more the fashion industry strives for something different, the bigger the platform for other countries around the globe to make their stamp. Holly Knowles predicts the future... Art and culture are two exceptionally important elements to the world of fashion, we are all intrigued by different life styles, different concepts and as much as we say we dislike change; change is imperative to ensure we live in a growing and developing world. When looking at the city that is going to be most celebrated in terms of fashion in the near future, it is extremely hard to gauge as every country is really making a name for themselves. Which element do we look toward to discover this, if it is the viability of cash flow within the country; China would be a clear winner, consuming an astonishing 44 percent of luxury goods. However with the decrease of cash flow everywhere else it is apparent that luxury goods are very much the minority, people are looking for cheaper alternatives; minimalistic chic at a low price? Sweden without question. High street dominated the 2013 rich list, Zara being one of the top which essentially points the finger at European design. With so many options how the hell do we point the finger at just one country? At a recent event at Ravensbourne University this question was asked to over 20 fashion insiders, and the majority answer had to be London; but is this just the lazy answer? Of course London has been the fashion capital for many years, but this cannot continue, London’s fashion has become so saturated with so many different trends, styles and people, that nothing it astonishing anymore. The more people try and be different the more they essentially look the same, London is a chameleon to the fashion world. Which is why Paris is personally my ultimate

favourite fashion destination, the city oozesa timeless and traditional fashion which can be depicted straight away. However the ever growing fashion world is screaming for more; more inspiration, more ideas and more life. Recently excitement and interest surrounds Brazil, a country that is known for its sunny and upbeat party atmosphere which essentially has made it a dark horse when it comes to the world of fashion. Brazilian beauty, Giselle is one of the highest paid models of all time, but once again, she isn’t especially known for her fashionable exterior. So what is the hype, what has put Brazil on the map for the 5th fashion capital of the world? The financial Times has reported that Brazil’s textile and apparel industry association had a 47billion dollar turnover in 2009; over three times Britain reported, which amounted to 13 billion dollars. Whats more, the fashion sector employs 1.65 million people, in approximately 30 thousand companies, distributed throughout the country. The catwalk shows represent Brazils lifestyle, upbeat music plays as the beautifully made garments, [clearly made for Brazilian weather] glide down the runway. My favourite show was provided by the brand, Blue Man, creative directors; Thomaz and Sharon Azulay. The show, for me, greatly depicted a Rio carnival, fun, sexy and vibrant with the use of floral prints resembling a tropical paradise. I strongly believe this is exactly what the fashion world needs, Brazil is indeed a breath of fresh air when it comes to fashion week; they don’t shy away from their excitingly fun heritage and nor should they! It’s brilliant.

a l t y o u e g o

Make Up Artist: Adam Just Photographer: Enrika Katiya Photography Assistant: Nathan Henry Model: Greta Vaisvilaite

Eye shadow: MAC Eye liner: MAC Lipstick: MAC Ben Nye Loose Powder

Face Make-Up: MAC Blush: Ombre- Azelea Blossom Lipstick: Cherry Red Necklace: Zara

Face Make-Up: MAC Eye shadow: MAC Electric Eel & Chrome Yellow Lips: same as eye shadow Necklace: Primark

Make-Up: MAC Eye shadow: MAC Electric Eel Lips: MAC lipgloss Necklace: Zara

Make-Up: MAC Eye shadow & liner: MAC Chrome Yellow Lips: MAC lipgloss Necklace: H&M

industry interviews

have you got what it takes? We ask an exciting mix of our industry involved experts what it takes to make it?

Interviews with:

y o s s i a l e x a n d r a o l g a c l u c

f i s h e r m o o n - a g e b o z a l p

m c e l v a n e y

yossi fisher Yossi Fisher who has worked on various projects creates striking imagery thats cutting edge and atmospheric. Where do you find inspiration for the work that you do?

and fashion.

Which area of fashion do you feel is the most I find inspiration in the respected within the inspired. People with passion industry, currently? stimulate conversations and respectively my creativity. I find idea’s in the most random places, sometimes it’s nothing specific, but something random that will guide a train of thought that will lead to a great idea. It’s more about being constantly aware, and processing the world and the people around you.. I find that life itself is the greatest inspiration of art

Interesting question.. I think all area’s are essential, so for me, all come respected. Designers, Creative Directors, Models, Photographers, Bloggers, Art Directors, Hair Stylists, Stylists, Make-up Artists, Magazines, etc. They all allow each other to thrive and survive. It would be impossible to get the great things we do out of fashion

industry interviews if even one of those elements were to be taken out of the equation in my opinion. It’s like asking what’s better, food or water? You need them both.

others just want to by nice clothes. Some people love the celebrity about it, others think it tarnishes how pure fashion can be. Fashion will continue to evolve, and cycle.. It always has, always will, and people will always have contrasting opinions about it.

The concept of fashion implies a process of style change; how do you think the fashion industry is changing, in regards to the Controversy has been at the way it is being promoted? forefront of fashion to grab the attention of the I believe that fashion is media, thus acquiring the being promoted as being attention of the consumer. more accessible. Where (i.e Benetton’s ads) once fashion was considered Other than controversy, elitist, there is a market for every class of person how do you feel companies now. H&M, Top Shop, successfully communicate to Selfridges & Harrods would the public? be perfect examples of that range. Fashion is now recognized by the masses as more than just clothes to wear. It’s a personal sense of style, and everyone has one. What people are willing to pay for that varies, also based on their personal life ‘style’, which is why you can find clothes, shoes and accessories for £5 or £5000+.

Great question. I think that beyond controversy, the most successful way brands tend to communicate to the public is through identifying with their lifestyles. Ad’s and marketing campaigns are created to appeal to certain markets and consumers. From the type/age of their models, hairstyles, props, and locations to playing How do you think the off of nostalgic triggers. publics view of the fashion The use of social media platforms works in the same industry is changing? way. It allows companies The publics views will always to brand regularly, and change, and it will never be often. Essentially, it a unified front.. Some people makes for a constant flow of communication to the public. love fur, others condemn people who wear it. Some people are all about ethical & eco/organic fabrics, and

Alexandra Moon-age shows from her personal style that she deffinitely has an eye for style, her work shows exactly the same. What is your background? How did you end up in fashion? I went to art school and was obsessed with the theatre so originally I had no intention of going into fashion but I love all modes of visual expression and always loved to dress up. Seeing as I practiced styling so much on myself I thought I should give it a try on others!

Where do you find inspiration for the work that you do? I source my inspiration from subculture, art, collections (graduate collections in particular), I find

inspiration in themes that are not conventionally fashion related like the story I did with Elle Hardwick where we styled models as old ladies.

When putting together outfits what type of message are you trying to send to the public? Colour brings joy! Sometimes I can be introverted but dressing up brings me out of my shell- it’s a joy to express yourself through what you wear- you can instantly communicate something about your interests or make people smile because they are inspired to do the same or even just because they think

industry interviews

alexandra moon - age

you look ridiculous

Fashion often ostracizes curvy girls; what’s your philosophy on style and size? I know lots of hellah stylish/ fasbulous curvy girls. Style is style no matter what budget or sizeDon’t be discouraged because you don’t fit sample size-

some people also think you have to spend lots of money to look good but this is not true either.

What trends should we look out for this season? (Autumn 2013) The trend I am most excited by are bold 60s inspired looks (as seen in the Prada, Moschino, Marc Jacobscollections)!

See more on her website http://www.moon-age.net.

olgac bozalp

Olgac Bozalp lives and works in London, having not studied any courses in photography he found a passion for it whilst studying drama, he has now shot for the likes of Elle, New Look and other various magazines What inspires you when Do you agree with the idea taking photographs, what do that the face of fashion you specifically look for? promoting is changing? And that different styles, I do a lot of research and cultures and social groups look at a lot of magazines are being portrayed within and combine them with my own the fashion industry? ideas and the rest just falls in its place. Yes I do. This change is in How did you first start out in the photography industry? (did you take any courses?

the positive route.

With your experience in the photographic industry, do you believe that the publics I started when I was studying opinion is a big factor on drama at the university the way your photographs are where I became interested in taken? (to portray a specific photography. I didn’t take message? any courses.

industry interviews

Not always but the publics opinion can’t be written of.

What up and coming trends should we be looking out for this Autumn/Winter? I do look at various websites like style.com and similar sites where I read all about all new trends. Also working with all different stylist does help a lot too.

Luc McElvaney

Fashion illustrator Luc McElvaneys work plays around with colour, texture and iconography bringing them all together in and interesting and beautiful way. What is your background? How did you end up in fashion? I think I slowly grew into it. Ever since I was young I always knew I wanted to create/construct/build, but was never certain what I wanted to apply my artistic qualities to. For a while I wanted to be a fashion designer and went to a creative arts college to study Fashion Design. Before that, growing up, I never really thought being an illustrator as a possible option for a career. As I associated worlds like that,

far away from my world in Middlesbrough. Anyway, I applied for London College of Fashion to study fashion illustration and I guess it all goes from there.

Where do you find inspiration for the work you do? From all the interesting characters I meet in my everyday life. Society’s obsession with celebrity/ fame in relation to popculture. Our relationship with consumerism and branding among other things.

industry interviews

When creating an illustration what is it you want to portray, is there ever underlying concepts/ messages in your work?

They each go hand in hand. Fashion illustration can be documentary or conceptual and the same with photography. I feel rather than being made “more in the public eye”, fashion illustration People always associate my should continue to evolve work with the bright colour in it’s own roots. My work palettes I use and my use explores these exact themes of colourful pop imagery, of evolution with the use of which I find uninteresting and mundane. My work actually traditional craftsmanship with digital technology. The tries to break down the key is evolution. barriers of pop culture; exposing many of the things that operate underneath the cultural construct.

Do you think that the fashion illustration industry is growing or shrinking, also why do you think this shift is happening? I think in our modern day society, with new mediums such as film/digital/ photography, fashion illustration has lost it’s wings a little. The artistic practice is often forgotten when concerning illustration.

Do you think that fashion illustration is also regarded as high/important as other areas i.e. fashion photography, do you also think its an area which could benefit from being more in the public eye?

she is not in heaven Photographer: Nathan Henry Stylist: Abbie Niroomand-Rad Assistant Stylist: Emily Vinter & Holly Knowles Model: Tina Wang

Gold Dress: H&M White Dress: Topshop Bag: Topshop Necklace: Forever21

White Dress: Topshop Necklace: H&M Headpiece: House of Harlow

Lace Dress: River Island White Dress: Topshop Necklace & Bracelet: Forever 21 Headpiece: Primark

Dress: H&M Necklace: Topshop

Jacket: Zara Jumpsuit: Topshop Shoes: Topshop

fly in my milk

Photographer: Emily Vinter Stylist: Abbie Niroomand-Rad Assistant Stylist: Holly Knowles Model: Helen Oke

Top: H&M Designer Collection Leggings: American Apparel Shoes: Topshop Belt: Zara Cuff: H&M

Top: Topshop Trousers: Topshop Necklaces: Topshop

Leotard: Aqua by Aqua Blazer: H&M Trousers: Zara Shoes: Topshop Necklaces: Topshop

festival guide

Are YOU looking for a fun, affordable get-away this year? Ever considered going to a European Festival instead? Then look not further! Not only can a Festival be surprisingly cheap, but you’re guaranteed to have an incredible time with live music, sun and a buzzing atmosphere. Abbie Niroomand-Rad finds out price plans, camping and the three top festivals to go to this year! SUNSPLASH FESTIVAL

August 17th – 24th 2013

Rotomon Sunsplash Festival is the Reggae festival to go to this year. Hosted in Benicassim in Spain, the eight day experience is one you won’t want to miss. Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, you can expect it to be bigger and better than ever. Headlining this year is Bob Marley’s son, Damian Marley, doing his first ever performance for Sunsplash Festival! Alongside some other reggae legends, everyday will be packed with 69

music ranging from Dub, Basement, Ska and Jungle. This festival can quite literally accommodate anyone and everyone. With a safe, friendly environment, you are able to enjoy the variety in food, culture and people. The constant ongoing busyness of the atmosphere creates such a buzz, lifting everyone’s spirits. If you’re more of a party animal, you won’t want to miss the all night rave parties that start at dusk and don’t end until dawn. Each festival night – from before sunset to

fashion insider festival guide 2 a.m. - the main stage features the cream of reggae’s crop. Alongside the superstars will be the winners of the international Reggae Contest, whilst MCs and DJs always keep the audience riveted during the set changes. Everyday, courtesy of being a Sunsplash festival customer, you will receive free, unlimited access to the mini bus which will take you to and from the campsite/arena to the beach, where there are activities to do in the daytime and an all day beach party. In terms of food, prepare yourself for your mouth to discover a new meaning of flavour and spice. You will be able to try and taste the traditional chicken reggae kebab, famous for its delicious seasoning. But if the flavours of Benicassim don’t take your fancy there is always the nearby supermarket, just a short 5 minute walk away from the campsite! If you’ve never been to a festival before, you’re properly aware of how unhygienic they can typically be... but not this festival. The showers and toilets are regularly checked and cleaned to keep you in the festival mood. With over 230,000 people attending last year’s Sunsplash festival breathing in the reggae atmosphere, the six stages, debates, areas for non-profit organizations, Benicassim comes alive. Sunsplash has become a significant cultural event that is much more than just a simple musical experience. Bringing people from all over the world together to celebrate in unison, embracing the live music with beautifuland friendly faces, what more could you ask for? To find out more and book your tickets now visit www.rototomsunsplash.com

DOUR FESTIVAL

July 18th – 21st 2013

Dour Festival has been voted one of the top best European Festivals to visit this year, with over 144,000 people gathering in the middle of the South of Brussels, Belgium to celebrate alternative music. If you are a music lover, or want to become one, this is the festival for you. With the likes of Wu-Tang Clan, Iggy Azalea, The Vaccines, Klaxons, Jurassic 5, Fulme, Cyril Hahn, Pendulum, Rusko and many, many more performing at this incredible festival. The festivals music offers various, from classic R&B, Dancehall, Rap, Grime, Deep House, Hip-Hop, Electronic, RMX to Chillout, so you never have to worry about not finding the right genre for you. This festival is not your usual festival. With huge circus style tents, seven stages and wooden floorboards (so you don’t have to worry about getting your shoes muddy), it is the perfect event for anyone wanting to experience a different type of festival from your average kind of stuff. Not only is it extremely cheap but the transport is incredibility convenient for you Londoners. With a ferry that

travels directly from London Victoria straight to the festival in just 2 hours! Not only is there a pre-festival party on the ferry, but the prices are considerably low and affordable (check price plan). Although it is known to rain a lot in Belgium, with suitable weatherproof gear and willies, your spirits won’t be dampened. As soon as you’ve got some traditional Belgium beer, you won’t even notice it’s raining! For Refreshments, there are booths dispersed around the Festival site and in the campgrounds. A large choice of food is available, from typical dishes to classic snacks. Unless of course, you’d rather camp in style, there are many hotels, hostels and other campsites that surround the festival for those of you who’d rather shower everyday and sleep in a bed. You may want to purchase a book of languages – you might find it come in handy with such a mix of cultures and people! But if you’re notice it’s raining! For Refreshments, there are booths dispersed around the Festival site and in the campgrounds A large choice of food is available, from typical dishes to classic snacks. Unless of course, you’d rather camp in style, there are many hotels, hostels and other campsites that surround the festival for those of you who’d rather shower everyday and sleep in a bed. You may want to purchase a book of languages – you might find it come in handy with such a mix of cultures and people! But if you’re worried about having to carry around your heavy luggage or keep your personal belonging safe, each festival-goer is provided with a free locker, so you can keep all your items safe from the rain. This particular festival has been going since 1989, although it’s had little publicity, its famous for supplying its customers with constant music entertainment. So book your tickets now to find out for yourselves! To find out more information and book your tickets now visit www.dourfestival.be

OUTLOOK FESTIVAL

29th August – 2nd September Outlook Festival is the largest bass music and soundsystem culture festival in Europe, featuring the biggest names from the most vibrant and cutting edge dance scenes around. As Duke Ellington put it “There are two kinds of music. Good music, and the other kind.” Held in Croatia, in an ancient old Austro-Hungarian fort on the coast of Pula, the views of the beach are simply spectacular, alongside with weather, of course. Outlook is for those of you who look forward to being able to lounge around on the beach, catching

a tan whilst listening to beautifully performed live music. Outlook returns for its sixth year in 2013 armed with, what I believe to be, an incredible line-up featuring some of the world’s best live acts and DJs across Dub, Hip-Hop, Drum ‘n’ Bass, Dubstep and beyond! As it approaches its sixth year, Outlook has grown rapidly and is going from strength to strength. With it becoming more and more popular internationally, the event is expected to be at its biggest and best this year. Anyone who has been to any of the previous Outlook’s will tell you how amazing the vibe was, how wicked the music was, how beautiful the smiling people were and how stunning the setting is. Music acts this year include: Benny Page, Gentleman’s Dub Club, Sky FX, Dusky, Goldie, XXYYXX, DJ EZ and there are still many more acts to be announced later this year. As a specialist festival it means that if you remotely like the sound of low frequencies and the odd Jamaican motif then there’s almost nothing you won’t adore at Outlook. For ease of access to the site and

general good vibes as it is strongly advise that people stay at Camping Brioni. The cheapest of accommodation options, it is also the best for being at the centre of the festival. The campsite is beautiful and directly connected to the beach where the daytime beach parties take place. There are plenty of shaded areas for comfortable camping, showers, toilets and electric points as well as convenience stores, bars, a restaurant, a pizzeria and all sorts of other stalls so all your needs are catered for without leaving the site. Or, if you’d rather camp in style, otherwise known as “glamping”, this option is also available for an added cost that accommodates up to six people in a brightly coloured stripy canvas bell tents, with carpet for the inside of your tent, 2, 4 or 6 campbeds, windbreaker and zip-up heart shaped windows with curtains attached. Does this sound like your kind of festival? It will be without a doubt one of the cheapest, liveliest festivals in and around Europe. To find out more information and book your ticket now visit www.outlookfestival.com

our festival price plans! sunsplash Return Flights: £144 Festival Ticket and Camping: £200 Money for food/travel expenses: £300

Total Costs for SUNSPLASH: £614

dour festival Ferry from London Victoria & Festival Ticket and Camping: £220 Money for food/travel expenses: £300

Total Costs for DOUR: £550

outlook festival Return Flights: £133 Festival Tickets: £135 Money for food/travel expenses: £300

Total Costs for OUTLOOK: £548 72

interview exclusive

New kids on the block Sadie and Issac are Crim3s a duo who met in a London warehouse and eventually began releasing music together. They’ve been described as various genres such as thrash, my favourite and most accurate, grunge rave. From London they’ve faced various problems whilst trying to produce and create yet still manage to release music that has a rave feel, while still having dark atmospheric elements. Their music really reflects the journey they’ve been on giving us something really different from whats out there, they’re definitely something special to look out for especially after supporting Crystal Castles at their Brixton show last November.

Interview with nathan henry What albums have you released or going to release in the near future? Sadie: Haven’t produced any albums

yet but we’ve released two EPs already. The first was our CRIM3S self titled ep and the second we’ve just released named ‘stay ugly’ Isaac: Theres a bunch of new tracks that are almost ready, looking forward to putting those out, they represent what we are about much better than our previous tracks i think.

How long has it taken you to get into the position you are in now?/How did you get there? Sadie: I personally feel that we’re

nowhere near the position that we’d be like to be at. It seems that sometimes people compare us to much bigger bands and therefore expect

that certain level of performance from us, they forget however that we’re still an unsigned act…we don’t have what a label or manager can help give and provide for a band. Everything we do is off our own backs, we’ve had no help from anyone other than our listeners that continue to share our music. I guess we’re at where we are now because we refuse to give up and we strongly believe in the music we create, we have something to say. Maybe its that ‘something’ that are followers seem to relate to as well.

What is your favourite song you have released so far- Why? Sadie: kinda hard for me to pick

but im gonna say ‘holes’ just because we had the strangest time producing it….when we were homeless for a bit we found ourselves staying in a halls of residence for 74

law students which we used to have to sneak in and out of! The walls were paper thin and isaac had just finished up the track for holes and I loved it that much that i just needed to get the vocals down there and then, so we hooked up a mic and at the top of my voice i laid down the vocals in one take, at the same time we had people smashing at the walls and the security guy bashing at the door trying to get in whilst isaac held it shut…it was worth it. Isaac: stress. sadie and i have been on a mad struggle for the last couple of years. we were living in a warehouse called the monkey farm with about 30 kids and it was crazy, every day was nuts. Seriously a film should be made about that place. It spawned a lot of great creative people, our friends Gash Bastards for example who are a rave crew that have been 75

doing banging parties the last few years. Anyway, we got evicted and people had to leave the country and so we lost our house and a lot of friends so then it was just me and sadie homeless and alone in london trying to get back on our feet. making music was just impossible. holes was the beginning and i feel stress is a reflection of the time since then.

What are your ambitions for the future? Sadie: We’re still in the process of developing our sound and we’ve only recently managed to have some kind of stable living arrangement so we’re happy to finally be able to focus 100% on our music. Isaac: im fucking excited to be able to make music…finally!! so a lot will be heard from us in the

interview exclusive

near future.

Any upcoming gigs or tours? Please state dates...

to heal the new problems that face each generation. Do you enjoy your job?

Sadie: CRIM3S is definitely not a job for us Its the only thing that keeps us alive and going. it documents our life and holds a piece of our soul. Isaac: fuck jobs. i just lost mine and i will do anything to keep myself from going back to that When did you first know that you shit. some people can get jobs wanted to produce music as a doing things they enjoy but for career? the working class its literally 9-5 feet under slavery or face Sadie: For me it was probably after homelessness and starvation. the we had produced ‘holes’ it was the poor are spat on. it would be nice first track we had ever created to be able to live from just being together and at the time it was a band, so we could concentrate just for the fun of it, thats when on making music, but that doesn’t we formed CRIM3S. really happen these days unless Isaac: I find it hard to talk to your commercially sellable. people. Sound is a better language for me, but im not exactly fluent, i never understood music and still cant play any instruments. As a kid my brother was djing oldskool rave, drum n bass n jungle and i owe everything to him for that path into music. I was 17 when he told me what a synthesiser was so i sold my dirt bike for one and my life changed instantly. I started going to squat raves all over the uk and discovered the bliss of being lost and smothered in loud music. Music is therapy, and making it is the only purpose i have i think. It needs to stay fresh to be able

Isaac: We have had to turn down shows all over the world because we haven’t had the opportunity to work on our music enough to take it live properly. but thats our goal, music is best live!

http://crim3s.bandcamp.com

mono i n s i d e r

off the

beaten track

Nathan Henry checks out and researches the benefits of smaller galleries A little harder to find but definitely worth it, we set out to find smaller and quieter galleries to really see what else is on the art scene minus the usual Tate galleries or central based white spaces. Looking around for hidden places to visit to see something really trying to find galleries which aren’t on most peoples radars. A few have the idea of hidden down perfectly, blending in with their surroundings almost trying to dismiss the fact they’ve been transformed into something more inventive and innovative than just white walls. If you’re like me you’ll be constantly sick of visiting the same old galleries, having to wade through massive crowds to see the same typical thing and nothing ever really changes. Fair enough bigger galleries are great for culture, really bringing in some needed interest but some times you’d rather people didn’t know or care. Surely there has to be something else out there, well honestly there is. Hidden around London there is plenty to see, just remaining hidden to most people’s vision although once you being to look a little closer you’ll discover a world which is just begging for people to fall in love with it. 77

Milk and lead Milk and Lead Gallery really is hidden, at 35-37 Fortescue Avenue literally next to London Fields this gallery really is something different. Displaying the weird and wonderful they really have an interesting style and aesthetic, when I visited their was a solo exhibition by Cliff Wallace, who has worked on various film ventures as a special make up technician, including Hell Raiser. His sculptures cross the line between the abnormal and horror yet still remain a vision of beauty yet still creepy and odd. His work really fits the feel and aesthetic of the gallery and I think it’s brilliant, it’s great to see work in a gallery that fits it. It really seems to help and highlight’s why I love smaller galleries. My favourite pieces were probably Geisha and The Bastion, with the Geisha I love how although it is resin and mixed media the detail and realism which have gone into it. I think that’s the beauty of Cliff Wallace’s work is the how real it looks, with Geisha again he captures the idea and posture of a Geisha yet twists and warps it. The Bastion is also the same with such impressive detail and ideas behind it, I think his work really shows how highly he’s regarded by everyone and how he’s a master of his craft. I think what I love and is really clear with Milk and Lead is that they tred where some galleries might not tend to want to; showing us something very different by art norms. It also really aids the work on show having that support and allows people like Cliff Wallace to show off his talent and perfection, proving that even he’s really become a master of his craft. Milk and Lead is definitely something to look out for, but if you’re going to go it may be best to contact them first and get an appointment. 78

large glass Placed at 392 Caledonian Road, Large Glass is a small gallery that feels both like a living space and a contemporary gallery, the mix of wood and white walls really creating something special. The main theme of I AR YOU is portraits by Self-Taught American Artists, all various different styles of painted and sculptured media the 25 pieces really aren’t a sight to be missed. I thought that out of all of the artists on show at Large Glass Ike Morgan’s work really shone, his uses of colour and texture really coming across and creating some really different portraits. The focus of his work seeming to be presidential figures he really creates an abstract take on portraiture, throughout the gallery his work instantly shines and you know which of the pieces are his, from ‘Abraham Lincoln’ pieces to the ‘8 Presidential portraits series’. Painter Chuckie Williams also had a very different take on portraiture especially with ‘Dolly Parton’ I think he really had a lot to show with this piece, really capturing her style and personality within a portrait. Creating something with flare and brimming with colour his use of mix media on a plywood panel is another stylistic choice which stands out amongst the crowd. FBI man by William S Burroughs also catches the eye with his interesting use of line in felt tip pen and graphite. At first glance the piece seems little more than a drawing but on closer inspection you realise that the paper has shot marks in it, I think its a perfect example of not just taken for granted what’s there and really thinking in more depth about a piece. Large Glass is definitely worth a visit, somewhere a little more quirky than the usual with a really welcoming friendly atmosphere. With new exhibitions around every four months its somewhere to really be aware of which is focusing away from such mainstream art.

the crypt gallery Not far from Euston Station, the Crypt of St Pancras has been converted in a hidden gem of an art space, I think the adaptation and use of the space adds to the whole feel of the gallery and presents the work next to an interesting unusual backdrop. One of the main positives of this show is that between six different artists you have such a media of mediums on show. Nick Callaby’s work really lends itself to this space, especially the scar glass series which bright light and magic to the most haunting of places. Reading about the work on show you really get a bigger feel of what Nick’s work focuses more about memory and managing internal distress, his work looks around the idea of human memories as a constraint and the need of release of these emotions. Another focus on memory was Kim Logan’s work focused towards more memory, identity and loss she really hones into this with her mixed media pieces. Using collage as a medium she collects pieces and unites them really changing the context of them and giving them a breath of new life in what she describes as ‘fundamental interpretation of the human experience’. Dick Barnard’s work really stood out through his use of colour, which against the stone backdrop really enhanced the pieces giving them more of a presence than that of them being next to a white wall. Heather Wadsworth’s pieces also had a similar affect of being full of colour and against stone, her abstract landscapes. The Crypt Gallery is somewhere which regularly changes exhibitions especially in spring/summer making it a definite place to visit if you’re looking to get away from bigger galleries. I really see this as a space which really focuses in on the art rather than profit, being a space which could be utilised by anyone who wishes to show work there.

A big issue from viewing different galleries was the idea of what benefit do these smaller galleries bring? Obviously from a viewers point of view we have them there to keep us entertained, something unusual for us to visit and maybe more to your liking. This is definitely clear but I have to question what benefit do the artists get from these galleries and how important are they for a smaller artist? After visiting these smaller galleries, talking to the people who are curate and present in these galleries issues were raised about why they do it. Firstly are these smaller venues doing it for a love of the arts or is there more of an incentive? While researching into this issue and projects I’ve been hearing various stories of people choosing to book out areas and spaces to exhibition in together and spreading the cost. I’ve heard of various spaces costing people around £80-£100 each between only 5-6 people clearly this helps spread the cost of the exhibitions and really tackles that issue. Obviously artists would present their work and be willing to exhibit in smaller galleries, it’s great for themselves, helping to get their work out in the public eye but also hopefully selling some of their pieces. But why smaller galleries, do artists see what the public do and see a space for what it really is? Are artists growing tired of the mainstream white walls just as we are and is art turning into something more personal? Using galleries with more feelings which have been converted from various things like police stations to crypts, perhaps the benefits of small galleries don’t just include the fact they can publicly show their work cheaply. Maybe artists also view galleries as an additional element to their work, something to add character and emphasis somewhere which presents their personal or a collective groups opinion or feelings towards an idea or concept. As artists collaborate or present together work, they gain press for themselves possibly looking to exhibition often, normally around every three or fourth months to regularly show their work and gain more press. Perhaps this is another benefit of smaller galleries it allows their work to be show more often, as part of a smaller collection more often and also allows them to be presented into a current art scene rather than galleries such as the Tate or V&A who’s exhibitions tend to be focused around the past rather than the contemporary current artists. Clearly there are many different reasons as to why small galleries exist, all to the benefit of other people and we should really embrace their importance in keeping the art world something which remains current and constantly growing.

mono issue one

T H E

M O N O

T E A M

E d i t o r : N a t h a n

A r t

H e n r y

D i r e c t o r :

H o l l y

K n o w l e s

G r a p h i c

D e s i g n e r :

P o l l y - A n n

D u f f

P h o t o g r a p h e r : E m i l y

V i n t e r

S t y l i s t : A b b i e

N i r o o m a n d - R a d

p h o t o E n r i k a

a s s i s t a n t : S t a n k e v i c i u t e