The Jeweller May/Jun 2016

T H E M A R K O F I N D U S T RY I N S P I R AT I O N & I N F O R M AT I O N

JUNE 2016

£7.50

The JEWELLER

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EW ADAMS

Celebrating 70 years of craftsmanship

Discover the beauty of fine gem-set jewellery made in our own London workshops

SINCE 1946 Telephone: 020 8640 0678 Email: sales@ewadams.co.uk

Inside this ISSUE JUNE 2016

08 INDUSTRY NEWS From bath towels to Glasgow pavements...

09 WHAT’S NEW KickStarters at IJL

19 EDUCATION Bransom Award winners 20 DIAMONDS AND GEMSTONES With Gem-A and Chalfen 22 INDUSTRY ETHICS In a state of FLUX 24 ASSOCIATION NEWS Who, where, what and when...

26 BRITAIN MAKES ITS MARK As Assay Office opens in India

12 ASSOCIATION NEWS Cocktails anyone?

30 MEMBER SPOTLIGHT Tustains sustains progress WATCHES

Colour. Get your shades on for summer

All the latest movements

10 MEMBER SPOTLIGHT ON...

Raw Pearls

28 WE STEER YOU A drive to improve education standards

Pale neutrals, nude tones, greens, blues, black on black and brights

Featured this issue

18 EDUCATION Introducing a new diamond course

46 BUSINESS SUPPORT: INSURANCE The cybermen are coming!

Editor: Belinda Morris bmorris@colony.co.uk Advertising sales: Ian Francis ian.francis@naj.co.uk 020 7749 1705

48 PEARL TALK Beautiful pearl jewellery, from contemporary to classic

Designed & produced by: House Creative thejeweller@housecreative.co.uk 01625 614 005

58 SYMPHONY FOR STRINGS Understanding pearl restringing

Contributory writers: David Brough, Mary Brittain, Andrew Fellows, Lee Henderson and Sandra Page

60 ROMANCING THE STONE A close up on... tsavorite

Front cover image: Mishanto mishanto.me

62 IRV LOUGHBOROUGH 2016 Extracting full value 64 INDUSTRY NEWS Letter to the Editor, report from OroArezzo 66 THE (VERY) LAST WORD...

From our esteemed departing chairmen

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hile not immune to commercial vagaries, high-tech interlopers and global financial hiccups, watches remain major players in the jeweller’s portfolio. We highlight key style themes and offer a few thoughts on the market.

So, which are the important names in the watch business? You need only to have walked through the main hall of BaselWorld to glean that, but those big boys are clearly not the whole story. “The watch world seems to be pulled in two opposing directions at the moment,” says Giles Bushby of GB&RS. “The big are getting bigger; Swiss brands although not doing that well financially are dominating more and more of the retail space demanding larger and larger installations.

The small, however, are emerging. There has been a significant series of interesting and meaningful brands launched recently, all of which have a reason to be in the market, they offer the end consumer freshness and diversity.”

Commenting on retailer attitude Neil Duckworth of Veritime adds: “At Basel the general mood was one of stoicism. No one was in denial about how difficult the last year has been, and expectations for 2016 are not high. But most retailers are prepared for this, and most will weather the storm. So I’d say in general, retailers are being safe in their choices. But low expectations are always in danger of becoming self-fulfilling prophesies. There are still some who are ready to be a little more adventurous, and not just toe the line that the big brands lay down. And this could prove to be a wise strategy – by offering something new, exclusive and different.”

CEO: Michael Rawlinson michael.rawlinson@naj.co.uk

THIS ISSUE OF GEMS&JEWELLERY features an interview with renowned photomicrographer Danny Sanchez, an in-depth look at Whitby Jet simulants and reviews of the latest events in the gem world

May/June 2016 / Volume 25 / No. 3

Whitby Jet BaselWorld 2016 Interview with Danny Sanchez

The NAJ is responsible for producing The Jeweller and although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAJ does not accept liability, loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisors. The NAJ accepts no responsibility for the content of Gems&Jewellery or any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries. The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

JEWELLER

07 MICHAEL MAKES HIS POINT About marks, membership and our new magazine

44 BUSINESS SUPPORT: SECURITY Keeping watch

T H E M A R K O F I N D U S T RY I N S P I R AT I O N A N D I N F O R M AT I O N

05 EDITOR’S LETTER

16 IN THE HOT SEAT With chairman elect Simon Johnson

36 WATCH FEATURE All the latest movements

The National Association of Jewellers 78 Luke Street London EC2A 4XG 020 7613 4445 naj.co.uk

The

The

T H E M A R K O F I N D U S T RY I N S P I R AT I O N & I N F O R M AT I O N

JUNE 2016

£7.50

JEWELLER

14 EDF CONGRESS 2016 Inspiring leaders to inspire leadership

34 INDUSTRY NEWS Mishanto launch and Hatton Garden BID

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Famous for Insuring Jewellery

ISSU E H IGH LIGH T S

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ell, what do you think?! To mark the start of a new unified era, The Jeweller has a brand new look.

OK, if you’re reading this in the proper way (i.e. starting at the front, with page one, as you’re supposed to do) you won’t have seen the full effect of the clean, contemporary design, but the cover alone will have been an indication that things have changed. Just a cursory flick through the magazine will reveal further developments.

“...reflecting the broad NAJ membership, we’ve brought together a varied mix of stories and features...”

FROM the Editor

I hope that you like what you see, but we – the NAJ team, The Jeweller team and our new creative agency, House Creative – consider it to be work in progress. It’s early days not least of all because we would like to know what you think, so please let us know.

With the aim of reflecting the very broad membership of the Association, we’ve brought together a varied mix of stories and features in this latest issue. We look at aesthetic watch trends – from minimalist to all-singing-anddancing – and highlight market trends and stats (p36), then balance things out a little with a gathering of the latest directions in pearl jewellery (p49), because it’s June and because I love pearls!

I also love green stones, tsavorite especially, which is why I asked Gem-A’s Andrew Fellows to write about this particularly beautiful member of the garnet family for this issue’s Romancing the Stone (p60). Then, by way of a contrast, we offer advice on tackling cyber crime, report on SaferGems’ new WatchRegister, update you on speakers at the EDF Congress and IRV Conference and introduce the NAJ’s new education steering group.

With the AGM just days away (Novotel, Birmingham on the 8th) we also take this opportunity to introduce you to Simon Johnson, the Association’s chairman elect, who outlines his hopes for the future (p16), while The Last Word, aptly enough, goes to departing jointchairmen Andrew Hinds and Gary Wroe, who reflect on their past two frenetic years at the helm.

“Buyers often treat watches as an important expenditure... and they dedicate a lot of thought to the choosing of a model tailored to fit their perception of themselves...” p.36

“We all know that pearls are a timeless classic, but currently we see that there is an increased interest in pearls with a modern twist...” p.48

“...a liveliness and brilliance that is seldom seen in other gemstones, allowing it to sit alongside diamonds...” p.60 BELINDA MORRIS, EDITOR

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M A R K M I LT O N

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OPINION

MICHAEL makes his point possession in years to come, will know through the Mark that it is, indeed, Made in Britain. Picture if you will the scene on The Antiques Roadshow in 2050 when the expert turns a silver bowl upside down and says “Ah yes… if you look here we can be sure that this is made in Britain because of this Mark”!

And, of course, we know how sought after British designed and made goods are all around the world. Which means we have a fantastic opportunity to support and promote the export of our best and finest British-made jewellery. That’s why I hope everyone in the trade will see the value of the idea, support it and use it.

“Ah yes... if you look here we can be sure that this is made in Britain because of this Mark”!

All we have to do is agree the following three points: The Product – in terms of what Made in Britain actually means, The Proof – deciding how we ensure that an item was made here, and Promotion – letting everyone know what the Mark is and what it stands for.

You will also (hopefully!) have noticed a new look for the magazine. This is just the first step in a transformation which we hope all members will appreciate and value. We have already sent out a survey to canvass your views on the magazine

and more importantly what you’d like to see included. A further survey will be sent out soon so that you can provide us with your views on this inaugural edition.

Please do take the time to feed back so that we really can make The Jeweller everything you want it to be!

Last but not least, on June 8th, we will be holding our Annual General Meeting – well three AGMs you might say. We will, of course, be closing the book on the two historic Associations, the BJA and N.A.G., and setting out our vision and mission for the new Association, the NAJ. Do please try to come to the meeting at 5.15pm in the Novotel hotel, Birmingham, and then network afterwards with your industry colleagues.

And, if you know of other people in the jewellery trade who are not members, why not invite them to come with you so that they can hear for themselves what we have planned for the coming few years. Hopefully they will want to join the Association too when they see for themselves how: “Together we really are stronger”.

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recurring theme in conversations I have been having recently about the new Association has been “Together we’re stronger”.

If you recall, this was the slogan we ran as we worked toward unifying the BJA and the N.A.G. The reason being that the two sides of the trade, manufacturers and retailers, would no longer be seeing each other as ‘the enemy’.

Instead, from now on our sights would be trained on those who were trying to take the food out of our mouths by enticing consumers to fritter their money away on things other than jewellery, watches, silverware and other goods and services associated with our trade!

Later in the magazine you’ll find a feature on a potential new project – a ‘Made in Britain Mark’ for jewellery. I believe it could be a real benefit for our manufacturers as well as our retailers.

For the creators of jewellery, a stamp on the item itself is enduring and can convey a sense of history, of quality and of supporting British jobs and skills. The Mark will also provide an opportunity for retailers to highlight many of these qualities and benefits that the purchaser really can identify with. Of course all of these messages can be emphasised through point of sale and other supporting marketing assets both physical and online.

But where the Mark will really come into its own is in the simple fact that it will be an integral part of the item which can never be thrown away, lost or separated!

The keeper of the item, whether the first owner or someone coming into its

MICHAEL RAWLINSON, NAJ CEO.

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What’s NEW

Industry NEWS THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

BATH TOWELS, RANSOM NOTES and GLASGOW PAVEMENTS...

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British Craft Trade Fair winners find inspiration in unlikely places

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ach year the British Craft Trade Fair in Harrogate recognises the talents of exhibitors with awards – we spoke to the winning jewellers.

This year, the Excellence in Jewellery Award, sponsored by the NAJ, was won by Rachel Brown for her original, commercial concept using a new technique with graphite pencil on enamel.

The judge, Peter Burridge the owner of the longestablished Montpellier Gallery, Stratford-uponAvon, commented: “This is a simplistic, scalable idea that can be expanded in many directions; good design often is!”

2 Highly commended awards went to Jenni Wilson for her quirky lifestyle designs with wellconsidered POS material, and Michele Daykin for her handmade silver and batik textile jewellery.

RACHEL BROWN JEWELLERY (1) “If you think of enamelling and enamelled jewellery then you think bright colours, intricate patterns and highly skilled technically difficult pieces; my work couldn't be further from this. I use white enamel only, which I guess is unusual; my pieces are often mistaken for porcelain.

“I have taught jewellery since 1993, keeping jewellery making as a hobby... until last year when I took it up full-time. Having been introduced to enamelling at college I revisited it five years ago and researched various techniques and came across a method of drawing onto a stoned enamel surface with a graphite pencil; the carbon is absorbed by the enamel

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and leaves a permanent image.

“Designing is an organic process – I pick up some copper or silver, let the piercing saw do the work and the shape evolve. I sift the enamel on, fire it, grind it, draw on it and refire. So each piece is unique. I love mark making and I am inspired by anything from the tiny loops on a bath towel to the texture of peeling paint on a door. My current range explores random scribbling. I can vary the depth and tone of the pencil on the surface of the enamel creating an almost 3D effect.”

MICHELE DAYKIN (2) “Inspirations for my designs come from surfaces, the repeat markings on Glasgow pavements, the chisel markings on Edinburgh walls, along with aged and weathered brick and stonework. I combine silver and fabric – hand-batiked by me – and no two pieces will ever be exactly the same as I treat each piece individually. My collection includes a range of wearable pieces: earrings, pendants, cuff links and brooches. I have a limited palette of colour, blues, greys and greens, that complement both the satin and oxidised finished silver.”

JENNI WILSON (3) “I began in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter in 1999, supplying shops and galleries. In 2008 I took time out for children, then last year built a workshop in my garden, and developed new ideas and an improved website. I relaunched at BCTF – my first trade show since 2007!

“I use recognisable imagery, text and humour to create unusual, elegantly wearable pieces. I showed new collections – ‘Dressmaking’, inspired by vintage patterns; ‘Ransom Note’, inspired by cut-out and paste ransom notes; and ‘Birds’ – alongside ‘Washing’, my original, most popular collection. I mainly use silver, but include colour and texture with fabric, buttons, enamelling, metal paint, engraving, stamping and piercing. I developed my own washing instruction symbols – now my logo, which is on my POS material and many jewellery pieces.”

IJL’S KICKSTARTERS. Our chance to KICKSTART

their career

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he polls are now open for members of the industry to vote for the ‘People’s Choice’ – the KickStarter designer who they feel to be ‘the one to watch’.

One of the most popular stands at International Jewellery London (IJL) for the past eight years, the KickStart programme showcases the work of ten promising emerging jewellery designers; examples of their work can be seen at jewellerylondon.com/kickstart “Our KickStarters this year will not disappoint – they are a really exciting group of designers and they all deserve to benefit from this unique commercial launch pad,” says IJL show director Sam Willoughby. “What is particularly

rewarding this year is to see yet another two Bright Young Gem designers become KickStarters and progress their IJL journey. Our aim is to provide the ideal environment to support and nurture the best design talent, helping them grow from a fledgling business to a potential global designer brand.”

The annual mentoring initiative, which receives marketing and industry support from IJL’s partner the NAJ, has seen a number of its designers go on to be familiar names within the industry.

The 2016 line-up is clearly hoping that the exposure at the show (4th-6th September at Olympia, London) will prove as rewarding for them. The ten fledgling designers are:

Emma Calvert – combines colour and texture for her signature sculptural jewellery, with inspiration drawn from architecture, fashion and history and using precious metals with resin and woven textiles.

Sammie Jo Coxon (SCJ London) – aims to make pearl jewellery ‘more stylish, sleek and sexy’ with her Demeter collection in 18ct gold which also features gemstones.

Joanna Bury – a 2014 Bright Young Gem, specialises in contemporary statement pieces in materials such as sand-blasted glass-like acrylic and precious metals.

Lucas Mitchell (Lucas Alexander) – introduces his first collection, ‘Colours’ – a demonstration of his playful and colourful style for stacking bangles and rings.

Vicky Lew – with experience at Cartier and Swarovski, will show her debut ‘Flight’ collection which employs the pavé setting method to suggest the movement of birds on the wing.

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Charlotte Scott Moncrieff – draws on her background of living in northern Denmark for gold and diamond pieces with a clear Scandinavian aesthetic – clean lines and timelessly elegant.

Marina Skia – creates fashion jewellery in brass and silver, drawing on the beauty of natural forms but characterised by bold geometric lines and an emphasis on detail.

Jonna Jarvenpaa and Laura Vilppula (Addalit) (4) – come together to create semi-bespoke pieces in 18ct gold, which can be personalised. Addalit reflects jewellery designer Jonna’s Nordic heritage utilising Laura’s knowledge of diamonds and gemstones.

Cecile Gilbert – works with polyester resin combined with oxidised sterling silver for a truly contemporary take on the Art Deco, employing cut-out and recasting techniques.

Emily Richardson – a Bright Young Gem in 2008, creates modern designs inspired by dramatic icons, the most recent being Salvador Dali’s dreamlike paintings.

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RAW From sweeping the floors to ‘pearl emergencies’, director of Raw Pearls Miranda Raw has always taken a hands-on approach to the business...

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South East (and beyond), and communicating our message more generally via our various marketing channels. We’re naturally passionate about seeking out beautiful pearls and offering them to our tradeonly customer base in the UK; we aim to keep stock of a very broad range of pearls and clasps (which we can also wholesale separately). We make the

Miranda Raw and her father Jonathan

with my father. We make a great team when selecting and negotiating.

How has the company changed (if at all) since its launch – in terms of the products you sell, the pearls that you source, the customers you target?

We aim to change our ranges regularly, adding to them all the time, according to what’s in fashion. We’ve always focused on the independent jeweller but with the growth in online businesses we are seeing more of these become customers – items can be made bespoke to allow different businesses to offer different styles. We buy loose material and make here in the UK, so we often have designers come to us for more unusual, high quality, loose material and clasps. Culturing processes have changed over the years.

I remember the rice-shaped pearls that were produced in the ’80s – funnily enough we’re still asked for these occasionally – but culturing has moved on and product nowadays is of a much higher quality, and broader variety.

Have ethical issues in relation to pearls affected your business and how you operate?

We have always gone direct to farm source for the majority of the buying, which gives us a unique and very direct insight into the supply chain. Over the last few years we’ve been asked about ethics more and more by customers – “Are you able to trace which farm the pearls have come from?” is a regular question. We have a couple of blog articles on our website which address the current issues, which we are always very happy to talk customers through.

Would you say that retail (trade) customers are pretty well-informed about pearls, as far as terminology etc is concerned? Is there anything that Raw Pearls does to address this?

And what about the consumer?

Many jewellers feel ill-equipped in terms of knowledge to both buy and sell pearls. We’ve spoken now on multiple occasions to members of the trade in Holts Academy sessions about pearls, with a view to helping our customers with both the knowledge and the passion to sell pearls. We are also always happy to schedule time free of charge with customers and their salespeople to provide pearl training – we feel this helps them keep a step ahead of the competition. We try to keep customers well-informed so that they can speak to their own customers with confidence. A recent article written for the IJL show blog for example can be found here – in this piece we are updating customers about the current pricing of pearls: www.rawpearls.com/challenge-risingpearl-prices How adventurous are buyers when it comes to pearl jewellery – what are the key trends at the moment?

We have a very broad customer base from very traditional, classic jewellers to more contemporary shops.

Our designs are very much customerled depending upon demand. This year we have seen some demand for longer, perhaps opera length necklaces, and we have some beautiful IJL show ‘specials’ which meet this need. We will have a great discount applied for the show, but current customers can access them at a very competitive rate now.

What plans do you have for the future of Raw Pearls?

We have just launched a more userfriendly website – actually the old one was fairly highly-regarded, but keeping the site easy to navigate for our customers is key. We are also due to expand our current workshop to allow for the growth of interest we are seeing in our business and product.

Member SPOTLIGHT

majority of our jewellery to order in the UK, and offer restringing, repairs and matching services, pearl training, and images to customers placing stock orders. I’m always at the end of a phone for my customers, even at weekends... for pearl emergencies(!) and the like.

Our passion is not just for pearls, but in building great relationships across the trade.

Have you had any specific training in pearls (is this an ongoing thing?)

I started learning on the job in our Somerset office from my father – I didn’t start to build my own customer base for two years! You’ll be aware that pearl training in the UK is very limited, even within the trade. I’ve now travelled out to the Far East on multiple occasions

THE MARK OF PROFESSIONALISM

What is the history of Raw Pearls?

My father began as a sole trader with just a few boxes of earrings in 1979 – my great uncle, Robin Raw, is also in the trade having worked for Asprey at one time and I think that inspired some interest in the jewellery business. Dad opened his workshop in our family home in 1980, just before I was born, and in 1987 moved into our current workshops in Somerset. The office was opened by Prince Charles, due to its location on Duchy of Cornwall land and we gave him some pearls for Diana at the opening. I was seven years old at the time and was allowed to go to school late that day to see him arrive.

When did you get involved in the company, in what capacity and what is your key role now?

I began sweeping the floors for pocket money in my teens and was given a pair of earrings when I got my ears pierced in 1994. I think I’ve worn pearls every day since then – of course it’s part of the job... but I wear them at weekends too! I worked for an investment bank in the City of London in my twenties after completing my law degree, and during that time I began to think about how I might start my own business. I was excited to get involved in working with a product my father clearly loved, and a business that had been operating all my life.

Currently my own role involves expanding our customer base in the

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Association NEWS

COCKTAILS anyone?

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THE MARK OF QUALITY

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ord Digby Jones was the guest of honour at a special cocktail party hosted by the British Allied Trades Federation (BATF) and held at the new Assay Office Birmingham last month.

Welcomed by the Federation’s president Kate Owen, Lord Jones gave an impassioned speech, extolling the huge importance of manufacturers as the country’s wealth creators. He was also quick to point out the vital role that is still being played by Birmingham in particular – a point close to his heart, being Birmingham born and bred!

The evening event was held to celebrate the work of the Federation, as well as to mark the forming of the NAJ, which forms part of the BATF’s group of associations. Among the industry figures enjoying the canapés and Mojitos, Kir Royales and Cosmopolitans in the imposing foyer of AOB were the NAJ’s

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outgoing joint chairmen Andrew Hinds and Gary Wroe, incoming chairman Simon Johnson, president Patrick Fuller and CEO Michael Rawlinson, as well as AOB’s CEO and Assay Master Stella Layton, Henry and James Deakin of Birmingham-based cufflink maker Deakin & Francis, Andrew Morton, MD of WB The Creative Jewellery Group, and Northampton retail member, John Henn.

“The BATF is delighted that the cocktail party we organised to celebrate the NAJ was such a success,” commented Rosina Singleton, BATF COO. “We are grateful to Lord Digby Jones, the Assay Office and Rachel McTiernan – of member company Wedds & Co – who sang so beautifully for us, for helping to make it such an enjoyable evening and we hope to continue to cement close relationships with all of those who attended.”

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1. Michael Rawlinson, Kate Owen, Daisy Ip & Bart Dalton. 2. Henry & James Deakin.

3. Michael Sweeney, Sir Digby Jones & Simon Johnson. 4. Andrew Morton & David Doyle. 5. John Henn, Lindsey Straughton & Patrick Fuller. 6. Lord Digby Jones & Belinda Morris.

CHARITY CHARM COMPETITION

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he NAJ is searching for two beautiful charms to sit on a bracelet alongside others pledged by top UK designers.

Any UK company designing and making in the UK may apply. The charm is to be created in the designer’s own style, in any colour or caratage of gold. It may incorporate stones or mix media. Two NAJ members have offered to donate two beautiful items to be incorporated in the design if the designer so wishes – namely a pearl and a diamond.

Raw Pearls has kindly offered to donate a pearl of any colour up to 10mm in size, to be used in one of the charms. Clark Diamonds of Birmingham has also generously contributed up to 30 points of white diamonds, or a 30 point diamond, to be used in one of the charms.

High profile designers, Alexander Davis, Alexis Dove, Rachel Galley, Sarah Ho, Sarah Jordan and Collette Waudby, will each design and make a charm. Outgoing co-chairman Gary Wroe of Hockley Mint will donate the bracelet, which has been designed by Jordan. The finished charm bracelet will be auctioned in December at a special charity event for ChildLine at St Paul’s Cathedral.

Claire Hoyle, head of partnerships at the NSPCC, said: “We’re delighted to be partnering with the NAJ and International Jewellery London to create a bespoke charm bracelet celebrating 30 years of ChildLine.

Their tremendous support of our luxury Christmas gift auction and Christmas carols event will help us to be there for children when they really do need it most.”

Lindsey Straughton, our NAJ marketing manager, also commented: “It is a pleasure to be working again with IJL and such talented British designers on such a worthy project. I know the bracelet will look beautiful and ChildLine will hopefully benefit from a very generous donation for this unique piece of jewellery. I encourage designers to enter this competition and use their imagination with the kindly donated materials. I look forward to reviewing the designs next month.”

Information will be posted on the NAJ, IJL and NSPCC ChildLine websites prior to the show, alongside a social media campaign. Trade press will be informed and invited to view the charm bracelet on the NAJ stand at IJL (K26).

The closing date for competition entries is 13th June, by which time drawings or CAD files must be submitted (print ready at 300dpi).

Winners will be announced the next day and the delivery date for the finished charm is 13th July 2016.

The NAJ ChildLine Charity Charm Competition, The National Association of Jewellers, Federation House, 10 Vyse St, Birmingham B18 6LT. T: 0121 237 1110.

E: marketing@naj.co.uk

THE MARK OF QUALITY

enter now!

T e are very excited to announce that we will be holding NAJ education seminars at the 2016 IJL show.

Open to exhibitors, buyers and visitors, the Association will provide JET Foundation and Diploma taster seminars. The JET seminars will be available on Sunday and Monday with times to be confirmed and will provide an insight into our courses, sampling a module or two. They will be led by Anne Kings, one of our experienced JET tutors, who can also provide mini JET tutorials for current JET students, if there is a demand.

We encourage members and nonmembers alike to come along to these seminars. The NAJ education team will also be available to talk through all of your education and training needs, so if you are considering starting a course yourself, or offering a place to one of your employees, come and have a chat. Further information and confirmed times will be available on our website, giving you a chance to book onto the seminars.

Association NEWS

EDUCATION SEMINARS at IJL

Charm and bracelet

by Sarah Jordan Photo by Coneyl Jay

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INSPIRING LEADERS to INSPIRE LEADERSHIP

EDF CONGRESS 2016 THE MARK OF SHARED KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE

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THE EDF CONGRESS WILL BE HELD ON WEDNESDAY 8th JUNE 2016 AT THE NOVOTEL, 70 BROAD STREET, BIRMINGHAM, B1 2HT. Registration is at 09.00 for a 09.30 start. The Congress finishes at 16.30, to be followed by the NAJ AGM at 17.15 at the same venue.

Tickets cost £225 pp for NAJ members and industry colleagues. To book your place contact Amanda White on: amanda.white@naj.co.uk

Just a few days away, the EDF Congress (8th June) will offer jewellery retailers a great opportunity to experience the Forum before becoming a member.

This year the Birmingham event will see seven highly successful business leaders taking to the podium.

SUBSCRIBE YEARLY FOR ONLY £850! YOU AND YOUR BUSINESS CAN BENEFIT FROM THE SHARED KNOWLEDGE, EXPERIENCE AND EXPERTISE OF THE EDF VIA: • MONTHLY PERFORMANCE REPORTS Enabling you to benchmark your business against other retail jewellers • ONLINE Q&A FORUM Whether you have a business issue or just seek guidance, you ask the questions and the members answer • EDUCATIONAL STORE VISITS Allow you to see and hear what other jewellers are doing • MEMBER BUSINESS SURVEYS On topics identified by the members

• REGIONAL GROUP MEETINGS To discuss the issues and opportunities members face, as well as develop new business skills • NEWSFLASH SERVICE Receive relevant business and industry articles straight to your inbox • P LUS: the opportunity to influence and shape the content of the annual EDF Congress. For more information visit the NAJ website at: naj.co.uk, call Amanda White on 020 7613 4445 or email her at amanda.white@naj.co.uk

STEVE BENNETT – Genuine Gemstone Company The Genuine Gemstone Company is one of the largest jewellery retailers in the UK, employing over 500 people. In 2012 it won the Fast Track 100 Award as the fastest growing privately held company, and in 2013 Steve Bennett was named the EY UK Turnaround Entrepreneur of the Year. Having left school with minimal qualifications, Steve completed a computer training course before working in a number of office based computer roles. After losing his job, Steve decided to go it alone and set up his own company selling computers and software; he later went on to establish jungle.com which he sold for a staggering £37 million at the height of the dotcom boom and bust. He set up Gems TV in 2004 and The Genuine Gemstone Company in 2007. Steve is planning to fly in space on Virgin Galactic with Richard Branson, who says of him: “Steve has created a great company, one built on principles and not a bunch of policies. We both believe to achieve lasting success one needs to provide your staff with purpose and values everyone can believe in”.

EDF CONGRESS 2016

JOHN MACLEOD – Advisor Innovate UK, Concentric, Darross John has delivered across technology, finance, plastics and chemicals. A natural communicator and extrovert, he just loves a challenge! He joined ICI Chemicals in 1983. In his first serious position, sales doubled within six months. Many roles later (including looking after Hatton Garden Jewellers), he escaped to the City. Post MBA he wrote the corporate plan for the largest stockbroker in the UK and shadowed the CEO. He helped put the company into Barclays where he became head of pensions – sales increased 120 per cent and 170 per cent over two years. He then became head of broker sales and moved to private banking.

Recently John has been working in tech, with Innovate UK, judging competitors for Government prizes, specialising in Artificial Intelligence and machine learning. He is a consultant to Concentric Partners LLP (tech fund) and MD of Darross, a company focused on eco-friendly projects.

ANNA BLACKBURN – Beaverbrooks Anna joined Beaverbrooks as a graduate trainee in 1998. Fifteen years later she was appointed CEO, achieving two firsts in the 97- year-old family business – the first female CEO and the first non-family CEO. Beaverbrooks has been named in the Sunday Times 100 Best Companies to Work For 2016 list for the 13th consecutive time in the awards’ 16-year history. Widely recognised as the most comprehensive guide to workplace engagement in Britain, Beaverbrooks was acknowledged by employees for providing inspirational leadership, its open and honest company culture and for its strong company ethos and commitment to the wider community. As Anna says: “We’re delighted that this year we achieved our highest ever response rate to the Best Companies engagement survey, which means we’ll be able to really identify what’s important to our people, which in turn will make Beaverbrooks an even better place to work where our people are inspired to be the best they can be”.

JESPER NIELSEN – Amazing Jewelry Over the past 14 years Jesper Nielsen has been a vital player in the global jewellery business. Since 2003, the Nielsen family has been a part of the creation of major jewellery brands, opened up more than 40 markets on five continents, generated billions of dollars in revenue, and left significant footprints in the industry.

In 2004 Jesper’s Kasi Group was appointed exclusive distributor of Pandora Jewellery in Central Western Europe (CWE) and in 2010 the Nielsen family and Pandora Jewellery established the European distribution company Pandora CWE to carry the brand forward in CWE markets. In 2013 Jesper launched Endless Jewelry, which is forecast to become the fastest growing jewellery brand in history. Following its rapid rise Jesper was mentioned as one of the industry’s top 50 influencers on JCK Magazine’s 2015 Power List. In 2016 Jesper and the Nielsen family will launch Amazing Jewelry.

CHARLES BRADSHAW-SMITH – SmartKlub Ltd Charles left the corporate world to establish SmartKlub, an energy start up, because he believes the industry needs disrupting. Starting out in customer-facing IT, Charles floated a dotcom in personalised print, and post-exit joined E.ON, establishing its front office systems post market liberalisation. In 2006 Charles led E.ON into the new distributed energy market setting up its innovation department in the UK and then EUwide from Germany. Charles’s creativity is in system thinking applied to diverse topics from electric vehicles to the social benefits of smart cities. Charles has advised on public policy in Brussels and the UK. In 2014 he investigated the SmartKlub concept to accelerate sustainable energy in cities to build resilient communities and business. SmartKlub was spun out of E.ON in July 2015 after winning InnovateUK funding.

ADRIAN DE COURCEY – Travel de Courcey Adrian started his career as a strategy consultant and worked in North America, The Netherlands, Germany, Denmark and China. After returning to the UK in 2011, he joined the family business Travel de Courcey.

In recent years the business has grown strongly through contract wins and high levels of organic passenger growth. Between 2011 and 2015 Travel de Courcey grew annual revenues from £5m to £17m and the company was the first in the UK to use fast-charging electric vehicles as profiled on BBC news. In 2015, the company was named, for the second consecutive year, as one of the ‘Top 1,000 Companies to Inspire Britain’ in a survey by the London Stock Exchange, Lloyds Bank and the British Growth Fund.

THE MARK OF SHARED KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE

PHIL CAVENDER – Virgin Trains Phil started his career in civil aerospace, before taking up his current role with Virgin Trains. As Virgin Trains’ general manager he is based at its headquarters in Birmingham, and is responsible for its Midlands and London operations. Phil leads a team of around a thousand people, including those involved in sales and customer service, chefs and train managers. He is passionate about bringing out the best in people.

15

Association NEWS

IN THE HOT SEAT

Meet the NAJ’S chairman elect SIMON JOHNSON, owner and founder of MARMALADE JEWELLERY, London

W

hy have you felt it important to get closely involved with the Association?

The N.A.G. was instrumental in helping us find our feet when we started out, giving us the confidence, contacts, knowledge and training needed to start our new adventure. As we grew we’ve stayed allied with the Association, sent all our staff on most of the training courses and got to know the head office team very well.

Thanks to my brilliant and supportive current team, I’m fortunate now to have time during the working week to help move the

16

Association forward. I feel that given the recent unification we have a oncein-a-generation opportunity to affect some real and great changes to the way the Association and its members benefit each other.

What aspects of the NAJ do you feel need the most urgent attention?

Several areas require constant and immediate effort. Our external Public Policy position must be codified and published as soon as possible. As a new Association our stance on issues such as fair trade and investment diamonds really does need to be in the public domain.

Our position as an education provider and portal for information about all sources of industry training is vital to our success in the coming years. It’s essential for our members to understand that we don’t just sell (world class!) education, and they should be able to come to us for anything they need to help them make informed decisions about their own training programmes.

Our membership compliance and standards must also be first class. We are re-writing our Code of Conduct and once complete our members will be asked to commit to it so other members, and the public, can start to rely on and prefer an NAJ member over one who is not.

There must be sanctions if a member falls below our minimum agreed standards. The EDF group’s membership needs to grow and expand to include groups for designer makers and trade suppliers.

The Institute of Registered Valuers must improve its reach across the trades, to encourage new blood into the profession and demonstrate that there really

is a career as a jewellery valuer.

Plus, we’ve got to develop a new stand for IJL, improve our trade partner benefits and move into new premises this year – so there’s plenty to do. Fortunately we’ve been recruiting volunteers for our steering groups to assist the Board and the head office teams – some amazing people willing to give up their time to help us achieve our goals. We’re always looking for as much help as possible however, so if there’s anybody out there who can and wants to help please don’t hesitate to get in touch.

What are your immediate plans as chairman? What does this role mean to you personally?

It’s pretty daunting but also incredibly exciting. I’m fortunate to have lots of friends across all branches of the trade, who are willing to help or offer advice – so that makes it easier. My first priority is to get the steering groups up and running so the target areas can start to be addressed and the NAJ can move forward. I feel incredibly privileged to be invited into this role and my mission is to ensure that the Association is in a better position membership-, education- and finance-wise, after two years of my stewardship.

How is the unification process progressing?

It’s gone very smoothly, considering the two organisations had such long unique histories.

This smooth transition is testament to the consummate skills and determination of the head office team and the two current chairmen – Andrew Hinds and Gary Wroe.

There are some geographical obstacles – we now have an office in both London and Birmingham. But given that these locations are the two beating hearts of the British jewellery industry, that’s a positive!

New course MAKES THE GRADE

EDUCATION THE MARK OF HIGH QUALITY EDUCATION AND TRAINING

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Assessing Mounted Diamonds is a practical, five-day course, during which time students will learn to judge correctly the quality of diamonds in jewellery.

Tutored by Eric Emms, one of the world’s most qualified lecturers in diamond grading, the course is unique in that it has been specifically structured with jewellery valuers only in mind.

“As I will be focussing on the needs of the valuer when faced with diamond jewellery, the time spent on the course will be heavily weighted to learning to a proficient level the practical skills of identifying the gem and assessing the quality of diamonds in jewellery,” explains Emms.

As emphasised, Assessing Mounted Diamonds is a practical course. Students will learn theory through the course notes provided, and by discussing relevant topics with Emms, along with fellow learners. However most of the time will be devoted to handling diamonds, simulants, man-made diamonds, treated diamonds and assessing mounted diamonds using a 10x loupe and a gem microscope.

Although familiarity with the 4Cs and the correct use of a loupe is expected as a prerequisite, the course should not, says Emms, be considered as an advanced diamond course.

As part of the Association’s commitment to delivering the best possible educational programme for its members, the National Association of Jewellers and the Institute of Registered Valuers are pleased to announce a completely new diamond grading course.

The details that you need to know: • The course will be held at The Gemmological Association’s London headquarters • From Monday 25th to Friday 29th July, 2016 inclusive • An examination will be held on the Friday • This will qualify as the ‘Diamond Grading Training Certificate’ prerequisite required for valuers wishing to become IRVs. The cost of the course is £950 plus VAT. Places on the course are extremely limited so please contact The NAJ Education Department to sign up immediately at: jet@naj.co.uk (Please note that accommodation during the five days is not provided).

TOP of the CLASS We talk to the Bransom Award winners for March and April

PAOLO MAGALHAES, HETTICH JEWELLERS, JERSEY When did you join the jewellery industry?

It was quite random.

After working for three years in stationery, in a Jersey department store, I was asked to take over the watch area.

Watches have always been my passion so I loved every second of it; it’s probably thanks to that passion that I’m succeeding in the trade. Last year I decided to take my skills and increase my knowledge to the next level, and that’s when I found Hettich.

What made you decide to embark on the JET course?

It’s something that every member of staff has to do. We strongly believe that in order to surpass customers’ expectations and build a trustworthy relationship, detailed product

knowledge and total accuracy in what we say is necessary. The JET course provides the answers to achieve such goals.

What was your experience of taking the course?

As I knew nothing about jewellery, and because English is my second language, I was a little afraid that I was going to find it hard to understand.

But it gets easier as you read a chapter at a time. There’s a lot to take in, but my tutor Anne Kings’s helpful advice made me go that extra mile to get good results. Also, if I had any urgent questions, I could always ask my work colleagues.

What part of JET1 did you find the most challenging?

I enjoyed every chapter – my favourite was diamonds. The most challenging were the gems.

All I knew previously were rubies, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds, and then spinel came along, then tourmalines, quartz, topaz... My world turned upside down because I realised how little I knew. Even though JET1 is over, I still pick up my gem book as I am far from becoming an expert. It really is a neverending process.

How has doing the course affected your working life?

It’s changed it for the better.

Before JET, I felt unsure when helping customers with jewellery and this course changed that.

I can now approach them with confidence and excitement, and provide the excellent service they deserve. I’m now going to expand my knowledge further by embarking on JET2.

SOPHIE FRASER, COLIN CAMPBELL GOLDSMITH, INVERNESS What drew you to the jewellery industry?

I started in September 2014 – a real career change as I was previously a support worker caring for young adults with learning disabilities. But it’s been an amazing 20 months.

I love my job and I love jewellery; now it just helps that I have knowledge about it.

I heard about the post at Colin Campbell, got an interview and was later told that my smile and bubbly personality made up for lack of previous experience!

Everything was new to me, as I’d never worked in retail before. We’re a small shop but a very close team and we help each other when we can. It’s such a lovely, happy environment, and nice to meet new people everyday.

How did you find time to study and write assignments?

I did most of my studying in the evenings and on days off – once I got into it, it was hard to stop! I really enjoyed it. I studied during quiet spells in the shop, but it was hard to pick up and drop, so I stopped that – especially after submitting one assignment too early in error, without finishing the last question! I’m glad I opted to do the course in the six-month time frame as it meant less pressure.

I found the online system very easy to use.

How has what you have learned been useful on the shop floor?

I’ll always be learning in this career – there’s always something new to discover – but I feel more confident when talking to customers. When taking in items for repair, valuation or remounting for our onsite workshop, I’m now more knowledgeable when advising customers. They appreciate this and are more likely to come back to us.

Would you advise others to embark on a JET course?

I’d strongly recommend this course to anyone; it’s very enjoyable and something to be proud of. I’d like to thank my tutor for all his help, and also my bosses at Colin Campbell for allowing me to take JET and their support throughout.

19

Industry NEWS

Diamond and sapphire ring by Chalfen

DIAMONDS

and GEMSTONES THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Exploring a mine of information

20

A

n educational top-up is always a good thing.

Belinda Morris took two opportunities for some useful extra learning over the last month.

In a bid to throw some light on its gemmological workshops, Gem-A recently invited a group of individuals who might be described as ‘on the fringes’ of the industry to sample a whirlwind, hands-on, ‘Understanding’ tutor-led session.

A motley crew of trade and consumer journalists, buying group officers and trade event organisers were introduced to the world of diamonds and coloured gemstones. For the most part our previous knowledge was sketchy, picked up in an osmotic fashion in the course of our work talking to and liaising with those at the sharp end of this business. It was therefore, for me, revelation enough to be shown the best way to hold tweezers and a 10x loupe (finally mastered), never mind get a handle on how to check for fluorescence and spot glass-filling.

Despite the patience and teaching skills of Gem-A’s head tutor Claire Mitchell, we were never going to leave Ely Place as gemmologists – that process takes months not hours. But we definitely left with more practical know-how and insight than when we arrived. And for those whose gemmological knowledge is more advanced, Gem-A offers intermediate and advanced workshops that dig much deeper. The day courses cost just £120 for Gem-A and NAJ members (and £150 for non-members).

Selling diamonds is a challenging business – there cannot be many suppliers or retailers who take a complacent approach to it. And so, on the grounds that ‘knowledge is power’, Hatton Garden-based diamond jewellery brand

Chalfen of London is setting about arming its retail partners with a little more ammunition.

Having recently moved into new, larger offices, it has created a dedicated facility from which to train retail staff and I was pleased to be given a front row seat at one of the first instructive days recently. Over the four or so hours managing director Howard Levine presented an overview of diamonds – a mine-to-shop floor What? How? Where?

Of course the four Cs were covered but beyond the theory of the accepted grades given on a certificate, Levine offered his own perspective on what makes a diamond sparkle and therefore ‘good’ – what affects a diamond’s value. He described how carat, colour, clarity and cut can be used to the salesperson’s advantage. This was combined with his own prescription for combatting ‘certification issues’ (especially when twinned with the effects of the internet).

His advice aims to provide staff with suitable responses to inevitable questions and comments from those potential customers who enter a store armed with internet-gleaned information. To sell diamonds, he emphasised you need empathy, the ability to listen and plenty of product knowledge.

And key to addressing the suggestion that diamonds are becoming commoditised can be summed up, he believes, in one word: differentiation. Which is where Chalfen comes in – part two of the training gives retail partners an insight into the brand’s diamond-buying, manufacturing and design philosophy. Clearly vital if you’re aiming to sell more of their engagement rings!

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21

In a state of FLUX

Industry ETHICS

April saw the UK’s first jewellery event dedicated to the journey between original source and jewellery-wearer. Belinda Morris spoke to a few of the participants for an assessment of the day’s success.

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

T

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he inaugural FLUX – Fair Luxury – conference, held at the Goldsmiths’ Centre, featured industry leaders who are currently questioning the way we approach provenance and sustainability.

Conceived by a group of independent jewellery professionals (including Rachel Sweeney of Cox & Power and fine jeweller Anna Loucah), the initiative was formed with the intention of creating an open platform for discussion and debate of those issues surrounding ethics in today’s jewellery industry.

Among those speaking or holding workshop sessions at the sell-out event were Lina Villa, executive director of the Alliance for Responsible Mining; Jack Cunningham, group sustainability manager at Gemfields PLC; CMJ CEO Willie Hamilton; jewellery specialist Joanna Hardy; jeweller Harriet Kelsall and jeweller/campaigner Greg Valerio MBE. “We were quite overwhelmed with the positive response and encouragement from delegates and speakers alike,” says Sweeney. “We wanted to represent the whole supply chain in the topics covered and to hear from speakers with differing perspectives and approaches to responsible practice. I hope we achieved that.”

“It was a good day, a good start,” agrees Valerio, “and arguably the most significant thing was the number of attendees who turned up [75] which was more than normal and it’s a credit to the organisers. And I was pleased to see that we had more than the usual suspects at this event – the ethical net is widening.”

Sweeney agrees that FLUX was not purely preaching to the converted. “One of the aims of the group – and the conference – is to broaden the arena, not just in terms of debate but also to reach the wider jewellery community,” she explains. “We were pleased to see lots of new faces and familiar ones we might not have anticipated. I think it shows that the timing was right and that questions about responsible sourcing and provenance are being asked more and more.”

Harriet Kelsall agrees. “I think it went really well,” she says, “and people I spoke to were really enthusiastic;

they’d learned a lot from the day. The word I kept hearing was ‘inspiring’, about the speakers and workshops, with people saying that they were looking forward to putting new things in place at their work as a result of what they had heard. People in my own workshop previously thought that ethics was only about supply chain but now know there’s a lot more to responsibility and sustainability than that (as important as it is).”

Cunningham used his platform to introduce Gemfields (focusing on ‘legitimacy, integrity and transparency’) and how he is working with the wider industry, brands and associations to improve ethical, compliance and supply chain standards. “There is currently a general lack of awareness about the conditions that the vast majority of coloured gemstones are mined in,” he says.

Unsurprisingly Valerio was familiar with much of what was said. “On a personal note it reinforced my view that we still have a long way to travel to restore the jewellery professions to their original essence of being a craft and skill that celebrate life, human creativity, design and dignify the sources with truth and justice,” he says.

So, with another event planned for later this year, what will come out of FLUX? “I think it will mean continued dialogue about the role that consumers, jewellers, supply chain organisations and campaigners will potentially play in helping to make the jewellery industry more transparent and accountable,” says Cunningham.

“In my opinion,” says Valerio, “FLUX needs to keep going and work out what it wants to achieve. It should be more than education and information, it should be missional in its goals of transforming our industry into a fully traceable and transparent profession and educating consumers on the important questions they need to ask of a jeweller when they buy a piece of jewellery.” Speaking on behalf of the organisers Sweeney adds: “We hope to build on the energy generated and continue to build what has become a global community and network of awareness and knowledge. The conversations that began on the day will continue and develop into action and new initiatives.”

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ASSOCIATION NEWS

NEW DESIGNERS SHOW TICKET OFFER The New Designers 2016 exhibition is offering an exclusive ticket offer to members of the NAJ. Taking place at the Business Design Centre, Islington, London (29th June – 9th July), the event showcases the talent of 3,000 innovative design graduates. The offer enables members to purchase day tickets in advance for £10.50, instead of £16 on the door.

The Goldsmiths’ Company-sponsored New Designers is split into two sections – jewellery and precious metalwork – running from 29th June–2nd July. Visit newdesigners.com to book online and use the code NDNAJ. The show also includes a special curated section, One Year On, which will show the work of 60 emerging designers with outstanding collections of original work in their first year of business.

THE MARK OF QUALITY

TEAM CHANGES AT NAJ HQ

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NAJ WELCOMES RETAIL JEWELLERS OF IRELAND

The Association would like to welcome Laura Forsyth, who joins the team in Birmingham as website and e-communications assistant, to cover the maternity leave of website manager Kelly Powers. Meanwhile, Maddy Richards, who has been an apprentice with us for the past two years, is now on full contract as social media and e-communications assistant.

We’d also like to wish membership manager Emma Rankin all the very best, as she has decided not to return to work following maternity leave.

JEWELLERY AWARDS DISCOUNT FOR NAJ MEMBERS The winners of the UK Jewellery Awards 2016 will be announced on 29th June 2016 and this year there is an exclusive discount available for all NAJ members when booking via phone only.

IRV COMMITTEE VACANCIES The NAJ’s Institute of Registered Valuers is looking for two IRVs to sit on its Committee, whose role is to develop and promote standards in respect of valuations, assess the competence of valuers and monitor their work and provide training for valuers. It will need to fill the positions when Rosamond Clayton FIRV FGA DGA stands down after serving for six years, and following Andrée Richardson’s resignation.

The Committee meets five times a year in London. There is no payment for attending meetings but travel expenses will be reimbursed. If more than two nominations are received a ballot will take place before and during the Loughborough Conference. All IRVs have been sent a nomination form and full details. We encourage all of our IRVs to consider this opportunity to be a part of the running and development of the Institute.

The evening, which recognises and celebrates industry excellence, will be held at the London Hilton on Park Lane and will include a three-course dinner, networking, entertainment and an after show party... as well as the awards themselves.

To take advantage of this discounted rate please contact Hannah Boag on: 020 3033 2634.

In April the NAJ presented an honorary Association membership to the Retail Jewellers of Ireland (RJI).

Recognising the ‘close relationship’ between the British and Irish jewellery industries, NAJ CEO Michael Rawlinson said that it had: “Enjoyed a very cooperative working relationship especially in regards to education and training, ethics and standards and other industry issues”.

Speaking at the RJI’s 50th AGM and anniversary gala dinner held at Wicklow, Ireland, Rawlinson added: “I hope that the next 50 years will see a successful continuation of the association. I look forward to working closely with the incoming president Richard Wehrly and secretary Damian Duggan on matters of joint interest.”

Retiring president Alison Browne said: “Michael Rawlinson has been a great source of inspiration to me. He has been a fresh pair of eyes and a safe pair of hands in guiding the jewellery industry through what can be very challenging times for retail.”

SCOTTISH JEWELLERS GOLF DAY, LANARK, 11TH MAY 2016

David Gauld of Gems Jewellers, Dumfries (and captain of the Scotland golf team) hands over the Lawson Challenge Trophy to giftwear and jewellery agency owner Nigel Bower, the new Scotland champion. Second place went to Ian Sinclair of Sinclair Jewellers, Inverurie.

Authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (No. 306522)

Industry NEWS

BRITAIN MAKES ITS

MARK

The news that The Assay Office Birmingham is to open an office in Mumbai has been met with some concern from a few of its customers in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter. Mary Brittain looks at the facts, speaks to those who are for and against, and investigates whether the time is ripe for the NAJ to back a ‘Made in Britain’ mark for those wishing to proclaim the UK origin of their products.

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

F

26

or a system which has been operating in Birmingham since 1773 and has entered the country’s lexicon as being synonymous with assurance, the facts behind hallmarking are surprisingly little understood, both by consumers and those working within the industry.

So before getting stuck into the current debate it might perhaps be useful to reiterate some facts about the system as they were presented to a recent meeting of interested parties in Birmingham, by Assay Master Stella Layton.

As Layton pointed out, when the hallmark was first introduced only those within a 20 mile radius of an Assay Office could have it applied to their products and it was thus a symbol not simply of the fineness of the metal but also of the place where the piece had been made. However by 1854 things had changed and goldsmiths and silversmiths from throughout the UK could choose the office at which their products were marked, whether or not they worked within its vicinity.

By the 1860s The Assay Offices had each introduced their own import mark for use alongside the office mark on imported goods, the flow of which was increasing. By 1975 the Government had ratified the ‘International Convention’ which represented the European Free Trade Association (EFTA) member states. This allowed pieces with a mark – which included the ‘Convention Mark’ – to be sold in the UK without further hallmarking.

The formation of the EU in the 1980s brought further changes and by the 1990s, when imports

accounted for 35.17 per cent of all items being hallmarked in the UK, the notorious ‘Houtwipper Judgement’ ruled that other countries’ marks were equivalent to the British hallmark and EU member states could export to the UK without reassaying or re-hallmarking. Fearing a total demise of hallmarking, it was at this stage that The Assay Office Birmingham applied to the Government to diversify its activities away from exclusively hallmarking.

By 1998 under pressure from the EU the Government agreed to introduce millesimal fineness marks and to remove the mandatory date letter. This met with a mixed reaction among British producers, but was generally supported by the trade associations, and while The Assay Office did not welcome it, it was obliged to follow the legislation. In 1999 the necessity for an import mark was rescinded and the differentiation between goods manufactured in the UK and elsewhere in the world was completely removed.

Some of those on the ‘nay’ side of the current debate still believe, erroneously, that the decision to hallmark outside an Assay Office’s hometown is new. This is not the case. The first of The Assay Office Birmingham’s ‘sub-offices’ was opened in 2002 and there are today tightly controlled offices, staffed by their own employees, in a number of locations.

Other UK Assay Offices also opened suboffices during the early 2000s. These included a London Assay Office at Heathrow Airport, striking the London mark onto imported product.

Industry NEWS

That said Pugh concedes that one way forward for those wishing to find a way of promoting ‘Made in Britain’, if not ‘Made in Birmingham’, could be the introduction of a mark – if not a statutory hallmark – which can be used only by companies meeting strict criteria for producing in this country.

The retailer and manufacturer James Newman agrees with this idea. Newman, who is also a fan of the hallmark, says that it plays an important role in all sales of bespoke jewellery made from his shop in the Jewellery Quarter. “Our customers are not just buying something off the shelf, we tell them what materials and processes we use and the hallmark strengthens the story. It gives confidence and assurance,” he says.

Newman, like Pugh, is not however threatened by the move to hallmark in India and feels that the hallmark should become a universal symbol of assurance in the way that a GIA certificate is for diamonds. “I think it is archaic to keep it in the UK,” he says. “We should be proud to take it out into the world.” However he would welcome a compulsory ‘Country of Origin’ mark being applied to imported goods and would also be happy to back a ‘Made in UK’ mark for bona fide British manufacturers.

There are already a number of initiatives in place in this respect. These include the ‘Made in Britain’ campaign started by the cookery company Stoves when it returned the manufacture of its cookers to the UK from overseas, which is now open to those in other industries and the Loophole plan for a ‘British’ hallmark which was designed by the Birmingham silversmith Tony McCarthy in 2002 but never introduced.

At the recent meeting the Birmingham manufacturer Alex Wardle agreed to gather together views from as many manufacturers and designer makers as are interested, to look at various options, to continue the debate in order to feed into the work the Association will be leading on. “I am passionate about the future of the British jewellery industry and we need to find a solution for the future. I feel this can only be done by collaboration so I would urge anyone who is interested to please get in touch with me at alex@alexanderwardle.co.uk ,” he said.

The NAJ has also reacted positively saying that, if there is sufficient interest from the trade, it would be happy to examine this matter further and to investigate the possibility of creating and licensing a UK mark to those who can prove the British provenance of their goods. If you would be interested in seeing such a project introduced please contact NAJ chief executive Michael Rawlinson michael.rawlinson@naj.co.uk

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

By 2009 the Dutch Assay Offices had opened overseas sub-offices in China and Thailand using the same hallmark as they applied domestically.

As Stella Layton made clear this posed a serious threat to UK offices which, thanks to government legislation, could not mark overseas and which were losing trade to their Dutch rivals. By 2013 the UK Assay Offices were granted permission to mark overseas and offshore and Sheffield Assay Office currently runs sub-offices in Italy and New York where their ‘Yorkshire Rose’ mark is applied to product.

This being the case, why are some of Birmingham’s manufacturers and designer makers up in arms about the sub-office in Mumbai? Despite the fact that some 57 businesses in The Quarter put their names to a letter of complaint to the British Hallmarking Council – a response to which is anticipated soon – few of those to whom I spoke were prepared to voice their opposition publicly and while happy to speak ‘off the record’ did not actually wish me to name them here.

That said the comments they made to me, whether from silversmiths, jewellers or retailers, were remarkably consistent. Rightly or wrongly they feel a sense of ownership of Birmingham’s anchor, they believe things are being made too easy for those wishing to import into the UK, they worry that standards may not hold and that ultimately the public may lose confidence in the hallmarking system.

James Deakin of Deakin & Francis, a Birmingham business almost as old as the hallmark itself, was prepared to speak out: “I signed the petition for a number of reasons. Firstly I was delighted to hear that a lot of manufacturers and brands were standing together to support each other. Secondly, I would prefer that the UK hallmark denoted pieces being produced here and wasn’t simply a guarantee of the quality of the metal. We hallmark absolutely everything we make, even when we don’t need to. However in the last four years we have also put our own name onto all our pieces and are using our own brand to signify its provenance. I think it is a negative step to hallmark in India and doesn’t make things any easier for those of us competing with imports... but ultimately I’m a fan of hallmarking.”

The necessity to take control of your own brand is something echoed by the silversmith Martyn Pugh.

As a Guardian of The Assay Office Birmingham, Pugh is clearly firmly behind the move to India and says he feels “not the slightest concern” with regard to any effects it could have on his own business.

“Your maker’s mark is the greatest guarantee of your work and promoting your own brand is the best way of doing that,” he told me.

27

Harriet Kelsall

We STEER you

EDUCATION THE MARK OF HIGH QUALITY EDUCATION AND TRAINING

Following the first meeting of the Education Steering Group, chairperson Harriet Kelsall of HK Bespoke Jewellery and NAJ director of education Kate Madelin outline the direction of this vital NAJ service.

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What are the aims of the Group?

KM: It is responsible for reviewing, developing and introducing educational programmes, courses and seminars and professional development support either directly through the Association’s own facilities and capabilities or in conjunction with third party providers. The work should aim to cover adequately all sectors of the jewellery trade, in order to facilitate members of the trade activating and maintaining professional standards in their chosen area of work.

The group should consider and make recommendations on how to present the jewellery industry and the multitude of employment options to potential employees, and in particular those in full time education as they consider their future in the world of employment especially when taking into account both their academic and technical skills and motivations.

What are the most pressing needs in terms of the NAJ’s education strategy?

KM: The Group will ensure that all courses offered by the NAJ are fit for purpose and progressing, growing and improving in line with industry needs. Members need to be well-served by other education providers, who should be encouraged to offer them some kind of discount or other extra benefit. It’s important that the Association becomes a central hub of knowledge and an information resource across the industry on education options.

We must highlight areas that need improvement of skills provision across our industry.

What decisions and initial priorities were shaped in the recent meeting?

KM: It’s too early to publish much of what was discussed, but I can say that we agreed that the Education Department would put together a timeline for the updating and rescoping of the JET 1 and JET 2 courses.

HK: We’re also excited about investigating how we can make these modular so that they can be valuable in different ways to different types of industry professionals, from manufacturers to watch retailers. We will also relaunch the Mentoring Scheme shortly and have discussed a couple of new courses/workshops – watch this space!

Who attended the meeting?

Other members of the Steering Group are: Heather Callaway (FIRV, gemmologist/ diamond grader), Gordon Hamme (British Silver Week), Paul Harris-Magri (Hills the Jewellers), Sarah Jordan (jewellery designer), David Lewis (director Maker

Mends), Barry Sullivan (consultant registered valuer), Peter Troth (F Hinds), Lisa Templeton (Signet) and Sarah Sinton (Richard Sinton Jewellers).

HK: These expert advisors have been carefully selected in order to help steer the priorities and activities of the educational area of the NAJ. Why were you keen to get actively involved in the education programme Harriet?

I’ve always been hugely passionate about helping to improve skills within the industry and encouraging enterprise, creativity and development where I can.

In my company we design, make and retail beautiful jewellery, so I have a balanced understanding of the different skills requirements in its various areas. I’m looking forward to working with the experts in our group and ensuring that we offer a good selection of useful information and training for all our members.

The development of individuals in the jewellery industry needs a multi-faceted approach. For example I like my designers not only to improve their skills by taking JET courses and working at the bench, but also by attending tours of the Assay Office, interesting exhibitions, visiting engraving workshops and taking short gemmology courses. It’s my own experience that investing in the development of your team pays dividends as well as ensuring your people keep motivated and enthusiastic about this great industry.

How will the education offer broaden to encompass the needs of the whole industry?

KM: We need to work right across the industry to research and understand where there are gaps in education and training provision. We will do this by getting out there and speaking directly to our members to discover what they need. We will also ensure that our current offering is relevant to all members by making the JET courses modular and introducing new units where needed.

HK: The JET courses are great but have been retail-focussed.

In my company, we use them for our retail team, but also for some of our young design graduates to help them bridge the gap between university and the industry. I’m looking forward to seeing how we can update JET where needed as we highlight the relevance of courses to goldsmiths, designers and operational people. We’ll also be adding value to our membership by looking into where we can help with manufacturing education at all levels.

Eurosafe UK presents Security Safe and Vault Standards - Part 1

INVEST WISELY IN YOUR SECURITY When buying a burglar resistant safe always ensure that its been independently tested to a European standard EN14450, EN1143-1 or EN1143-2. This ensures that your safe, strongroom or security cabinet has been tested by experts with relevant knowledge, skills and tools.

Production is regularly audited to ensure that the safe you buy will give the same level of security as the model that was tested.

HOW IS THE CASH AND VALUABLES RATING GIVEN? Insurers match a cash value to the European standards as an windicator of insurance coverage. If your insurance cover is important always check with your insurance company before purchasing a safe.

Eurosafe - The voice of the Industry For more information visit: eurosafeuk.org

eurosafeuk.org

GRADE EN14450 EN14450 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1 EN1143-1

S1 S2 Grade 0 Grade 1 Grade 2 Grade 3 Grade 4 Grade 5 Grade 6 Grade 7 Grade 8 Grade 9 Grade 10 Grade 11 Grade 12 Grade 13

eurosafe

®

CASH RATING

VALUABLES RATING

£2000 £4000 £6000 £10,000 £17,500 £35,000 £60,000 £100,000 £150,000 £250,000 £400,000 £650,000 £1,000,000 £1,500,000 £2,250,000 £3,500,000

£20,000 £40,000 £60,000 £100,000 £175,000 £350,000 £600,000 £1,000,000 £1,500,000 £2,500,000 £4,000,000 £6,500,000 £10,000,000 £15,000,000 £22,500,000 £35,000,000

Grades 11 to 13 apply to vaults only

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Tustains sustains PROGRESS

Member SPOTLIGHT THE MARK OF PROFESSIONALISM

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Leamington-based jewellers Tustains is to triple the size of its showroom – a major investment to meet an increasing demand for luxury watches. We spoke to co-director Tom Milner about the store and its ambitious plans.

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hat is the history of Tustains and your personal involvement with the business?

The business, which still has its original name, was 120 years old last year. It has had several owners in its lifetime but my brother Joe and I are the second generation of our family.

Our dad started here about 40 years ago as a jobbing jeweller and we’ve worked here for 15 years, buying the business five years ago.

What has led you to the point of deciding to extend the watch area so extensively? Has it been determined in any way by demands from your brand partners?

Since our last refurbishment, in 2011, our watch offering has progressed and we have more space than we used to have.

Also the world has changed and refit intervals are shorter than they were. We won’t be sacrificing anything to make room. Fortunately we already have the space to accommodate the changes. We will be making more use of underused areas of the shop, rather than making new space. The look will be similar in style, but obviously priorities change over time and the shop floor adapts to reflect that. Some key partners will enjoy more space and improved visibility.

Has the shop always carried watches?

How have you developed that area over the past few years?

We have always stocked watches and the collection is stable and small after a period of realignment. We discontinued fashion brands and rationalised particularly at entry level. This created a much smaller portfolio of premium, establishment Swiss brands.

How has the business changed since you took over? Has your customer changed also in that time?

It’s changed a lot in recent years which made a comprehensive refurbishment in 2011 a crucial opportunity. The aesthetic was in line

with how a lot of jewellers refitted at the time: less traditional but still basically timeless. It was all about brand furniture and places to sit down. At the time, Ernest Jones was getting rid of front doors altogether and opening the shop fronts up. Our vision got longer and we concentrated more on our relationships with luxury brands. The same year we stopped dealing with Pandora, which was symbolic of where our focus was going. Everyone else we know still thinks we were crazy but we’ve always valued our own path, and trusted our noses. We didn’t buy scrap gold either. We used to go to CMJ meetings and Stephen Hughes would say: “What the hell are you playing at?” but to us it always seemed a bit uncool.

What differences will be made to the shop as a whole with the expansion? And will there be changes in staff levels?

We have a fantastic mezzanine at the front of the store with two great big sash windows, which is great, but it’s a longer journey than sitting downstairs. This will be designated as a bridal area, so we have a lounge dedicated to wedding and engagement rings. We currently employ ten people internally and will probably increase this to 12 or 13 staff members once we’ve expanded.

Will you be adding more watch brands, or giving more space to your existing brands?

Which are your key brands?

The main shop floor will have more emphasis on watch brands, which includes some dry powder for new brands. Our key watch brands currently are Omega, Breitling and TAG Heuer, all of which will have considerably more space.

Overall it will be a much more attractive environment for the watch enthusiast.

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Is it time to update my safe?

5 essential questions That big lump of metal has been sitting in the corner for years but is it still doing its job? Good quality safes rarely break down or wear out, but there are important choices to make when looking for secure storage for valuables and confidential documents. Gunnebo Security Specialist Andy Rymill recommends asking yourself the following questions:

1. Is it out of date?

2. Am I over-protected?

If your safe is more than 25 years old, you should contact your insurer, because it may not be certified according to Europe-wide guidelines and so won’t be covered.

Using a safe buys you time, the time it takes for the police to arrive while a thief is trying to break into it, but Andy warns: “Safe-breaking tools are constantly evolving and improving, so a safe can become more vulnerable even if still certified.

“You might also want to think about updating to reduce the risk of internal theft. One third of all retail theft is internal. So the industry is constantly updating its technology to prevent staff don’t from becoming too familiar with it.”

Safe design is constantly improving. There has been a move away from keys, which get lost or copied, towards mechanical combination locks, electronic and biometric devices. New technology also enables remote opening by a second person, adding an additional layer of security.

New locks can also provide audit trails, so you can see who has been in the safe and when.

“It is usually possible to replace a lock, but with lower strength safes the cost of changing the lock can be higher than simply buying a new one.

“You may want to upgrade in line with changing needs, adding settings so only certain areas can be accessed by certain people. Many retailers need a bespoke product which we can supply,” Andy adds.

Many retailers are actually downgrading their safes because they calculate the risk of being burgled as low.

Instead, they prefer to have a lower grade of safe together with other forms of security, like CCTV or electronic alarms.

“There can be big savings if you roll this out across your entire estate and there is a large second-hand market for safes, so you can easily sell your old ones through a broker.

“But just remember, as the jewellers of Hatton Garden will testify, there really is no such thing as being over-protected.”

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2

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3. Am I under-protected?

Are you storing more in your safe today than you were when you bought it? For example, with a Grade 1 certified safe, the limit for insurers is £10,000 in cash plus £100,000 in valuables.

If you have more in the safe, you won’t be covered.

Is there a growing risk you might be burgled? In either case, you should think about upgrading your safe.

“The marketplace is changing in terms of how you buy a safe,” Andy says. “Now it’s easy to buy a safe on the Internet but you won’t get the all-important expert advice and guidance.

“There’s a lot of misinformation out there and you may easily end up with the wrong safe for your needs,” Andy warns.

4. Am I likely to move premises?

If the answer is yes then it will often be easier to get a new safe than try and move your old one.

“Safes cannot be assembled on site, they are delivered then placed on rollers and pushed into place.

“If bulky old safes need to be moved upstairs there may be problems such as being too heavy for lifts or floors.”

5. Am I happy with how it looks?

Would you like something more discreet? More compact? Maybe a safe that sits in the wall behind a picture or under the floor? No problem.

Top class luxury safes look modern, even stylish. A high-specification safe can be made to suit its surroundings or just to look different.

“Thanks to the Cloud fewer documents are now stored, so when there is a big old safe taking up space but not being fully used, it might be time to invest in something more compact with more up to date features,” Andy says.

Andy Rymill is Global Product Manager for certifed safes and locks at Gunnebo.

For more information and advice about buying the right safe for your needs log on to: www.gunnebo.co.uk E-mail: enquiries.uk@gunnebo.com Tel: +44 (0)370 224 0294

Industry NEWS

MISHANTO BRAND launches

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Having had a soft launch two years ago, this summer sees the full unveiling of Mishanto, an exciting new jewellery collection in sterling silver and 18ct gold vermeil or rhodium plating, and featuring coloured stones.

Created by Tony Abram – who, together with his sister Joanna, is a dealer in diamonds, gemstones and fine period and bespoke jewellery – the new brand pays tribute to his grandfather, Misha Abram.

In 1932 the non-Communist Misha was ‘taken’ by the Red Army to a Siberian Gulag camp. He survived the experience and during his internship managed to keep hold of his overcoat, into the pocket

34

HATTON GARDEN BID PLANS revealed

of which he had sewn two gemstones.

Today, to reinforce the Mishanto heritage, every piece of jewellery in the collection contains at least one gemstone and is presented in a specially-designed, soft corduroy pocket-like pouch, reminiscent of Misha’s coat pocket.

The collection is divided into two ranges: Cutting Edge and Easy Elegance.

Made in Italy, Cutting Edge (‘Veneto’) has a bold, sculptural look with three finishes – rhodium plated, glitterengraved, set with blue topaz; rose gold plated plissé engraved, set with garnets; and yellow gold plated, scratch-finished, set with citrines. The gold pieces have an

e-coating to protect from discolouration and the removal of the gold layer.

Easy Elegance (‘Rio’, ‘Azura’, ‘Tayla’ and ‘Cari’) features a mix of gemstones for bracelets, pendants, necklaces and earrings, across four colour ranges: purple/pink, green/yellow, brown/yellow and grey/blue. The pieces have been handmade, hand wrapped (faceted gems are threaded with silver wire which is wrapped on itself and attached to the next link) and cast. Designed to mix and match across each other, the four wearable, affordable lines are designed to appeal across the ages. mishanto.me

A £2.5 million investment plan to champion Hatton Garden businesses aims to enhance the area’s iconic status and harness commercial opportunities. The BID plans come ahead of the ballot of local businesses this summer. If a majority supports the proposals, the BID will go ‘live’ this October and run for a first term of four and a half years.

The BID’s aim is to see Hatton Garden grow as a world-renowned business and visitor destination, through amplifying the revitalisation of the area, enhancing its iconic status as London’s famous jewellery quarter and developing the experience of working, living, doing business and visiting the area.

Gary Williams (left), chair of the Hatton Garden BID, said: “I am proud of Hatton Garden’s jewellery heritage, but equally proud of how the area is evolving and the diverse mix of businesses the area is attracting. There are significant

opportunities on the horizon but also challenges – partly driven by the rapid change we are seeing locally, but also as a result of rising competition from areas across London. Through the BID the business community will have a stronger and more influential voice to develop and shape the Hatton Garden agenda.”

Networking opportunities, mentoring and training programmes and projects to showcase the creativity and skills within Hatton Garden are proposed to support businesses, protect the jewellery sector and to position the area as a creative hub.

Joint procurement programmes are also proposed to save money for businesses in the area.

The BID will be funded by the local business community via a small levy determined by the rateable value (RV) of eligible businesses – in Hatton Garden this will be one per cent of the RV of their business unit.

The NAJ AWARDS 2016.

The JEWELLERY industry’s MARK of EXCELLENCE.

SAVE THE DATE: THURSDAY 1ST DECEMBER 2016.

It’s also your opportunity to sponsor one of these prestigious awards to present your business as a true champion of excellence.

For sponsorship enquiries contact Ian Francis at ian.francis@naj.co.uk or on 0207 749 1705.

The NAJ AWARDS 2016 T H U R SDAY

1s t

DE CEM BER

The NAJ Awards 2016 will be presented at the Benevolent Ball, St. John’s Hotel, Birmingham.

Tickets £77 + VAT per table, tables for 12 £850 + VAT. This year, all tickets include half a bottle of wine per person.

For tickets contact Gill Price at gill.price@batf.uk.com or on 0121 237 1138.

THE NAJ AWARDS 2016

The NAJ Awards 2016 on Thursday 1st December acknowledges and celebrates the outstanding contributions our members have made to the jewellery industry in 2016.

Get your shades on Pale neutrals, nude tones, greens, blues, black on black and brights

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Watch FEATURE THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

All the latest movements

WATCHES

W

hile not immune to commercial vagaries, high-tech interlopers and global financial hiccups, watches remain major players in the jeweller’s portfolio. We highlight key style themes and offer a few of our own personal thoughts on the market.

So, which are the important names in the watch business? You need only to have walked through the main hall of BaselWorld to glean that, but those big boys are clearly not the whole story. “The watch world seems to be pulled in two opposing directions at the moment,” says Giles Bushby of GB&RS. “The big are getting bigger; Swiss brands although not doing that well financially are dominating more and more of the retail space demanding larger and larger installations.

The small, however, are emerging. There has been a significant series of interesting and meaningful brands launched recently, all of which have a reason to be in the market; they offer the end consumer real freshness and diversity.”

Commenting on retailer attitude Neil Duckworth of Veritime adds: “At Basel the general mood was one of stoicism. No one was in denial about how difficult the last year has been, and expectations for 2016 are not high. But most retailers are prepared for this, and most will weather the storm. So I’d say in general retailers are being safe in their choices. But low expectations are always in danger of becoming self-fulfilling prophesies. There are still some who are ready to be a little more adventurous, and not just toe the line that the big brands lay down. And this could prove to be a wise strategy – by offering something new, exclusive and different.”

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OUR TIME HAS COME

Timepieces made entirely in Britain – movements and all – may be thin on the ground, but there’s a growing number of UK-based watch brands grabbing a chunk of the limelight. Bremont, founded in 2002, is among the betterknown names, particularly since it launched a new facility in 2014 to manufacture case and movement components.

With aviation, adventure and engineering being its other guiding principles, the company has added new chronograph Regatta watches into its America’s Cup collection.

The concept for the mechanical models was developed through conversations with the Defenders of the Cup, Oracle Team USA, who made a point of emphasising the importance of countdown functionality when racing.

Also enjoying success is Elliot Brown, in particular its Mountain Rescue watch which was designed not only as a timepiece but as a simple compass to find South if the angle between 12h and the hour hand is bisected when pointing the hour hand at the sun. A useful bit of practical knowledge. “The UK watch market for us is particularly buoyant with our stores enjoying healthy sell through,” Ian Elliot comments. “The whole British

Hugo Boss

scene is growing steadily and it feels like we entered the market at the perfect time. We’re excited for the autumn to come around as we have some ambitious plans coming to fruition involving our first automatic and ladies’ collections.”

The chance discovery in Portobello Road of a classic Swiss wristwatch, inscribed with the words ‘Henry, August 1965’ led to the creation of Henry London – a tribute to the craftsmanship of a bygone era.

Its subsequent success has been impressive, as Paul Harry, Peers Hardy Group sales and marketing director explains: “Baselworld exceeded all expectations for the second year running for us. Henry London has a unique product proposition and compelling origins – we fully expect to be in more than 75 countries by the time the brand is just 12 months old. And the addition of heritage brand Halcyon Days and fashion jewellery brand, Lola Rose, sets our portfolio apart from other watch and accessories brands currently on the market.”

Senior fashion buyer for boutique Goldsmiths, Claire James, obviously has a weather eye on which brands are enjoying

Versace

Anonimo

‘a moment’. “The fashion watch market has had a slightly tougher start to the physical year with Michael Kors initially having slowed across the UK,” she explains. “However, having reviewed the summer and autumn launches we are confident that we will start to see it stabilise to own a healthy share of the market.”

While Hugo Boss is ‘a shining star’ for the store, Olivia Burton is seeing ‘phenomenal success’ in the ladies’ category – which is a growth area. Colour, mesh straps, vintage looks, clean lines and bitone bracelets are all strong style directions for Goldsmiths.

“The challenge for the retailer and the brands is how to introduce freshness into the window/store while being pushed by larger brands to give them more space,” says Giles Bushby. “It does seem a pity for the end consumer, who after all we all should be serving to the best of our ability, to be denied choice and diversity in the watch offer. With major brands in the mid-priced sector waning there is a huge opportunity for new and exciting brands to enter the window. It’s actually in the hands of the retailer to decide whether to follow the new or allow the new to pass them by.”

Minster

Military precision Navy, Army, Air Force inspiration in form and function

Citizen

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AVI-8

to the fore recently.

It also appears that complications are being disregarded for the simpler aesthetic of more minimalist designs. Two good pioneers of this growing trend are Nomos Glashütte and Mondaine, which both demonstrate how philosophy and aesthetic can align to great effect, affirming my supposition that watches, like all jewellery, are relevant to our lives because they act as talismans – something we wear because they empower us to feel a certain way. I guess what I’m saying is that a watch is an aspirational item, serving to evoke an idea of future success and ease of living. And ultimately that feeling of knowing you belong in your own skin – the added confidence – is priceless. For that reason I see some healthy years ahead for the UK watch market.

Jack Hudson, editor of blog.watchtag.com

Watch FEATURE

wrapped up inside each new model released. These brands advance with leaps thanks to watch aficionados who revere the talents of their engineers, marketeers and designers. It also seems to me that a luxury watch will always be that essential symbol of status; as important to the completion of an expensive suit as a pair of cufflinks or a tie.

When you look at the more affordable brands, like Daniel Wellington and Void, you realise that the same kind of devotion is manifest.

Buyers often treat watches as an important expenditure – an investment even – and they dedicate a lot of time and thought to the choosing of a model tailored to fit their perception of themselves.

They want to buy the assurance that this watch has been well-considered, and crafted by artisans. It’s this element of artistry that has led to some niche brands coming

Back in time Old school style for dials, cases, straps and bracelets and archive classics revisited

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

THE UK WATCH MARKET – a consumer’s view

It’s hard to deny that the UK watch market is saturated with a great many distinctive and innovative brands, from Wayang watches, made with wood hewn in the Sumatran jungles, to the big names like Omega, boasting a history of accompanying astronauts into space. The question we need to ask though, is whether customers are still being drawn to these brands like they used to – especially these days when so many people have substituted wearing a wristwatch with simply using their smartphones to check the time.

As a writer for a watch retailer, and someone who observes this industry on a daily basis, I’ve seen that ‘fashion over function’ is an adage that will always die hard. When you look at the high-end brands, Tag Heuer, Rolex, Omega, Patek Philippe and the like, you see whole philosophies being

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Watch FEATURE

Solid bold Chunky, sporty, often over-sized chronographs

Bremont

Elliot Brown

Lotus

Storm

TW Steel

We polled NAJ retail members on watch sales, with some interesting results: • 4 3% of respondents give around a quarter of store space to watches, while 5% give more than half • A fifth of respondents sell significantly more watches these days and the same number, sell fewer • Over 80% cover the £100–£250 sector, while 25% sell watches valued between £5–10,000

Festina

• A lmost half sell watches mostly in-store plus a few online, and about the same number sell in-store only

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

THE UK WATCH MARKET vital statistics

• A bout half say ‘fashion’ was quite important, but function and technicalities are more relevant to their customers • A lmost 60% keep a look out for new brands, 16% are constantly searching and the rest have all the brands they need

When comparing 2015 to 2014: • Total market value increased by +8.9% • Watches less than £500 grew at +1.3% in value

• Almost a quarter have a full-time in-store watch repairer

• Watches greater than £500 grew at +15.9% in value • Ladies watches less than £500 declined by -1.5%

Bell & Ross

• Internet sales grew at +27.6% in value Source: GfK

Salvatore Ferragamo

Bering

Time to shine Diamonds, crystals, mother of pearl

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• Almost half of respondents sell five or fewer brands

Michael Kors

O.W.L

please contact kinga@veritime.london - Veritime Ltd, 60 Pembroke Road, London W8 6NX Exclusive distributors for Anonimo for the UK and Ireland

For further information please contact kinga@veritime.london - Veritime Ltd, 60 Pembroke Road, London W8 6NX Exclusive distributors for Anonimo for the UK and Ireland

Watch FEATURE

Barely there Simple styling, clean faces, slim profiles

MeisterSinger

Movado

Olivia Burton

Mondaine

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We spoke to Raj Jain of WatchCentre on the rise of second-hand watches

ART OF THE SECOND HAND

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Nomos

Paul Smith

Which are the most in-demand luxury brands on the second-hand market?

The most popular names have remained consistent – Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier have always been our best selling brands, with Audemars Piguet coming in fourth. We of course sell many of the other luxury brands such as IWC, JLC, Vacheron & Constantin and Panerai, which form slightly fewer of our enquiries and sales.

Do clients come to you for models they can’t find elsewhere, or to find a particular brand/ model at a good price?

Most definitely both! I started my watches career in vintage and rare watches, so I have over 30 years of experience in horology. We have therefore always stocked models that are rare and unique. We now also offer all the major brands of luxury modern watches at very competitive prices, and our stock and prices are available for everyone to compare and view.

Has the attitude towards pre-owned changed in recent times?

Yes, we do believe it has, primarily due to readily available information. The consumer has become far more savvy and realises that full price does not need to be paid for watches

Calvin Klein

which are practically new and still guaranteed by the seller. Buying a luxury watch can often cost as much as a car. However, unlike a car, which immediately depreciates, the price of a top brand luxury watch stabilises over time, and quite often even appreciates – sometimes over and above its original RRP. Instead of second-hand watches having a stigma, they’re now actually considered a smart buy.

How many customers are happy to buy online – without inspecting the watches?

About 80 per cent of our customers are happy to purchase online without inspecting the product in person. Our Bond Street location gives them a great deal of comfort; retaining a showroom on one of the world’s most prestigious shopping streets comes at a high cost, and reputation is paramount. We’ve been in business for over 30 years, which gives the consumer confidence and trust in our knowledge, products and services. Plus, our website gives detailed images and descriptions of each of our products. We spent a great deal of time and attention on the photographs so that each product is displayed accurately. Also, we’re quick to respond to queries and offer a 100 per cent refund policy, as well as a guarantee – a win–win scenario.

Advert_TheJeweller_HP_May16 copy.pdf 1 16/05/2016 08:55:02

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You can earn a healthy margin from buying your customers watches and selling them to us FREE Valuation

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IT REALLY IS THIS SIMPLE… so call or email us now Come & Visit us: CMJ Autumn IJL 2016 Trade Event 2016 Olympia London 7th – 8th August

4th – 6th September

+44 (0)203 538 5132 | info@bqwatches.com

House Creative THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY’S in-house CREATIVE AGENCY

BQW House, 1 Back Lane, Edgware, Middlesex HA8 0HS | info@bqwatches.com | www. bqwatches.com | +44 (0)203 538 5132

H

aving worked closely with the team at the NAJ to develop its new positioning of ‘The Mark of Quality’ across all the areas of its activity, leading creative agency House Creative has also been involved in creating a new look Association magazine to support its newly formed brand identity as ‘The Mark of Industry Inspiration and Information’.

You have the first issue of the newly redesigned publication in your hands right now.

We hope that you like the sharp, new contemporary look and feel, specifically designed to reflect the NAJ’s dynamic new agenda and, of course the broad, diverse membership.

We value your opinions on the new magazine too, so please feel free to pass on any observations or suggestions to our editor Belinda Morris.

As Christine Colbert, managing director of House Creative (left), says: “The objective was to create a more appealing and stimulating magazine for the organisation that also more accurately reflects the aesthetic of the industry through a fresh new design that will work harder to engage its readers and provide the NAJ with a more distinctive communications channel. This can only be great news for both readers and advertisers and will hopefully find favour with all members of the new NAJ”.

Led by a team of industry professionals with CVs that take in some of the world’s most creative and successful agencies, the House agency has established an enviable reputation as a jewellery industry marketing specialist, having originated and developed compelling brand identities for leading jewellery retailers such as Wongs of Liverpool, Green + Benz and Kings Hill of St. Albans and, of course, the NAJ. Flying in the face of marketing industry norms, the House agency has a refreshing philosophy that is all about promoting the names of its clients at the expense of its own, as you’ll be able to see for yourself from its ad on page 57!

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Association NEWS

KEEPINGWATCH

SaferGems – the NAJ’s initiative against jewellery crime – in partnership with data-gatherer Recipero, has launched a paid-for version of its already successful SaferGems Watch Register.

Lee Henderson of SaferGems explains the thinking behind the move.

THE MARK OF QUALITY

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he aim of the SaferGems Watch Register is to help jewellers and pawnbrokers identify stolen watches by checking their serial numbers against a central database compiled by SaferGems.

During 2014 and 2015 almost £15m worth of watches were stolen from individuals and jewellery stores. Many of these were then inadvertently sold on through the UK’s wide network of pawnbrokers and second-hand jewellery traders.

Intelligence gathered by SaferGems shows that watches are among the items of personal property most targeted by thieves, with jewellery shops also frequently targeted by robbers and ‘smash and grab’ opportunists and organised gangs.

While reviewing the operational needs and costs of providing a fast and easily accessible checking service for the Watch Register, it became clear that Recipero’s CheckMEND™ service already provided a very comprehensive service that has been well-proven in thousands of retail premises nationwide.

At SaferGems we could see that with a little cooperation between the two

organisations CheckMEND™ could incorporate the Watch Register data that we hold, and so the partnership was established.

Focusing initially on jewellery and watch traders, the partnership is set to dramatically improve the benefits of the SaferGems Watch Register services, which help members report and be alerted to lost and stolen watches.

SaferGems members benefit through discounted use of Recipero’s CheckMEND™ service, which forms part of many Police ‘Safe Seller’ initiatives, enabling traders of secondhand items to perform history checks to help mitigate the inherent risks of handling second-hand property.

CheckMEND™ also provides duediligence certificates for all checks that are performed.

Steve Jupp, Deputy Chief Constable with the Suffolk Police Force, is enthusiastic about the move: “This collaboration is another positive step forward in assisting the police service to work more effectively with the business industry, to identify and recover stolen property. The register is an easy to use and efficient way for officers to access information; I know it will assist in

the conviction of many offenders to come,” he says.

Recipero was founded in 2000 by a group of UK entrepreneurs, with the focus on a ‘Crime Reduction Ecosystem’ made up of a suite of data gathering and intelligence solutions.

It provides services to customers that include law enforcement, insurers, retailers and consumers.

The SaferGems Watch Register was launched in January 2015, hosted by the British Security Industry Association and sponsored by the jewellery industry through the NAG (now NAJ) and TH March insurance brokers. Jewellers or pawnbrokers wishing to check the provenance of a second-hand watch can do so free of charge by contacting the SaferGems Watch Register team via telephone or by email. The aim of the initiative is to make it more difficult for criminals to sell on stolen watches.

During its early stages the register allowed three members to identify watches as stolen during robberies at stores in London, the North East and the North West. www.safergems.org.uk 0845 2727802 for further details or to join SaferGems.

Book YOURE PLAC now

BE INSPIRING

BY BEING INSPIRED “Around half of small businesses themselves cite poor leadership and management as a key barrier to growth” – Mark Sayers, Deputy Director at the Department of Business Innovation and Skills.

The theme for this year’s EDF Congress is, yes, you’ve guessed it, Inspiring Leadership.

At this unique event, you can hear from inspiring leaders from both the jewellery and non-jewellery industries who will be sharing their views on leadership, how leadership works best for them and highlighting the three most important things about how to lead others.

CONFIRMED SPEAKERS Anna Blackburn – Beaverbrooks As CEO of Beaverbrooks the Jewellers Anna has achieved two firsts in the family business’s 97-year history: the first female CEO and the first non-family CEO. This year Beaverbrooks was named in the Sunday Times 100 Best Companies to Work For list for the 13th consecutive time.

Steve Bennett – Genuine Gemstone Company In 2012, The Genuine Gemstone Company won the Fast Track 100 Award as the fastest growing privately held company.

As Richard Branson says: “Steve has created a great company, one built on principles and not a bunch of policies. We both believe to achieve lasting success one needs to provide your staff with purpose and values everyone can believe in”.

Adrian de Courcey – Travel de Courcey Having grown revenues from £5m to £17m in just four years, in 2015 Adrian’s company was, for the second time, named one of the ‘Top 1,000 Companies to Inspire Britain’ in a survey by the London Stock Exchange, Lloyds Bank and the British Growth Fund.

EDF CONGRESS BIRMINGHAM W EDN ES DAY

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J U N E

2 0 1 6

T H E M A R K O F S H A R E D K N O W L E D G E A N D E X P E R I E N C E

After six illustrious years with Pandora, in 2013 Jesper launched Endless Jewelry, leading to Jesper being named one of the industry’s top 50 influencers on JCK Magazine’s ‘2015 Power List’.

In 2016 Jesper is poised to launch the revolutionary concept of Amazing Jewellery.

Find out more about all of our speakers by visiting www.naj.co.uk/EDFcongress16 The 2016 EDF Congress, Novotel Birmingham, 70 Broad St, Birmingham B1 2HT. Wednesday 8th June. 09.00 registration; 09.30 start; 16.30 close.

EXECUTIVE DEVELOPMENT FORUM

Jesper Nielsen – Amazing Jewellery

Tickets £225 per person.

To book your place contact Amanda White on 0207 613 4445 or at amanda.white@naj.co.uk

Followed by the NAJ AGM, free to all members, at 17.15.

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INSURANCE

THE CYBERMEN ARE COMING!

TIPS TO COMBAT CYBERCRIME

Given any thought to internet safety recently? No-one is immune. Neil McFarlane of insurance brokers TH March, offers security tips for small businesses.

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

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igh-profile cyber-attacks on companies such as Sony have raised awareness of the growing threat of cyber crime. Recent surveys suggest that many small business owners are still operating under a false sense of security.

The study statistics are grim: the vast majority of small businesses lack a formal internet security policy for employees, and only about half have even rudimentary cyber security measures in place. Furthermore, only about a quarter of small business owners have had an outside party test their computer systems to ensure they’re hackerproof, and nearly 40 per cent don’t have data backed up in more than one location.

DON’T EQUATE SMALL WITH SAFE Despite significant cyber security exposures, 85 per cent of small business owners believe their company is safe from hackers, viruses, malware and data breaches. This disconnect is largely due to the widespread, albeit mistaken, belief that small businesses are unlikely targets for cyber attacks. In reality, data thieves are simply looking for the path of least resistance; 40 per cent of attacks are against organisations with fewer than 500 employees.

WHERE ARE THE ATTACKS FROM? Outside sources like hackers aren’t the only risk – often, smaller companies have a family-like atmosphere and put too much trust in their employees. Complacency follows – just what a disgruntled or recently-sacked employee needs to execute an attack on the business. Other attacks could come from failures in technology and processes.

According to the 2013 Information Security Breaches Survey released by the Department for Business, Innovation and Skills, 65 per cent of small businesses were attacked by an unauthorised outsider in the past year. The survey also found that nearly 50 per cent of the worst breaches were caused by inadvertent human error.

ATTACKS COULD DESTROY YOUR BUSINESS As large companies continue to get serious about data security, small businesses are becoming increasingly attractive targets – with often devastating results.

The cost of an individual security breach can vary, depending on the type of data compromised and the amount taken. However, cyber attacks can cost hundreds of thousands of pounds. Businesses are required to keep personal and sensitive data safe to comply with the Data Protection Act, violations of which can result in substantial sanctions from the Information Commissioner. However, many businesses continue to put off making improvements to cyber security protocols until it is too late, because they fear prohibitive security costs.

HOW TO PREVENT CYBER ATTACKS Even if you don’t currently have the resources to bring in an outside expert to test your computer systems and make security recommendations, there are simple, economical steps you can take to reduce the risk of falling victim to a costly cyber attack: 1. Train employees in cyber security principles 2.

Install, use and regularly update antivirus and antispyware software on every computer used in your business 3. Use a firewall for your internet connection 4. Download and install software updates for operating systems and applications as they become available 5. Make back-up copies of important business data and information 6. Control physical access to your computers and network components 7. Secure Wi-Fi networks. If you have a workplace Wi-Fi network make sure it is secure and hidden 8. Require password-protected individual user accounts for each employee 9. Limit employee access to data and information, and limit authority to install software 10. Regularly change passwords.

TH March has the tools to ensure proper cover to protect against losses from cyber attacks.

Can there be anyone out there who still considers pearls to be the sole preserve of maiden aunts and demure debutantes?

Surely not – these pages illustrate that these organic gems have the potential to inspire flights of fancy and fashion

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Pearl FEATURE

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as the recent fanfare over Her Majesty’s 90th birthday encouraged the public to think about buying pearls? It’s a nice thought... possibly.

The fact that pearl jewellery has been pretty prominent on the international catwalks of late might be exerting more influence. And of course there are summer weddings – pearls have an enduring link with nuptials.

Whatever... June’s organic gem seems to be enjoying its moment in the sun – gathering material for this feature unearthed more pearl-rich collections and more inspirational designs than I can recall in a number of years.

“We all know that pearls are a timeless classic, but currently we see that there is an increased interest in pearls with a modern twist,” says Kinga Bysiek, sales coordinator at Veritime, which now includes luxury Italian pearl brand Utopia in its stable. “There’s a focus on design, colour and detail as well as collections that tell a story – from the understated to the most eye catching dress pieces.”

According to Hannah Nichols, marketing manager at Claudia Bradby, customers are looking for “a twist on the classic white pearl”, and so the brand’s Margarita collection offers Ming and baroque pearls which have “an unusual and beautiful white silver lustre which sets them apart.” The new Rosa collection has also had a positive reception from buyers; it features the Pantone Colour of the Year, rose quartz, using lustrous pink pearls. At Coleman Douglas Pearls pink is also proving extremely popular, especially for its floral-inspired pieces, and sales of very long or very short, necklaces have risen.

An increasing demand for baroque pearls has been noticed too at Ping Ping: “While our classic round pearls will always be in vogue, their knobbly cousins, once seen as less desirable, are really coming into their own,” says MD Susan Lee. “We have designed a variety of pieces using both fat and button baroques that celebrate the uniqueness of each pearl, no two of which are ever exactly the same.”

“We have seen a very strong trend of increased sales of Akoya pearls in the UK,” says Daniel Vecht of London Pearl. “Most of our customers are increasingly looking for finer quality items. Even though the number of items sold this year has fallen slightly, because of the higher price point, the overall sales figures in the UK are showing an increase year on year.

“With the lower price in Tahitian pearls, we have also seen a trend that these are becoming more mainstream. A fine pair of 10mm Tahitian studs in 18 carat gold now has a retail price in the £250-£300 range – a few years ago they were retailing at over £500.”

“The recent devaluing of sterling against the Chinese Yuan is obviously going to have an affect on prices of imported pearls,” adds Lee, “but there are other factors in play. Concerns over water quality are restricting the amount of new pearl farm licences granted by local authorities in China, while tough new labour laws continue to raise costs for producers. Taking all this into account, good quality pearls are looking more and more like a good investment, as prices really can only go one way.”

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Ming, Ping Ping and funny knobbly things

Yoko 49

Pearl FEATURE

Very wow, very now While an essential range of items at a lower price point “is much more suited to the market”, luxury Australian pearl jewellery brand Autore reports that at Basel “clients and media appreciated the incorporation of statement pieces in addition to the simple items”. Hardly surprising – the WOW factor was high with popular pieces being the Dragon necklace, Catherine palace gold ring and lariat, Versailles long gold graduated lariat necklace, Taj Mahal bangle, Chrysler earrings...

Gold pearls proved to be particularly popular.

“In addition to our high end, opulent masterpieces, our fashion forward ‘Novus Collection’ has been developed to include gem quality Akoya and freshwater pearl creations in innovative designs,” says Isabella Daniels of Yoko.

“We’re also combining pearls with black gold – it’s a very sleek and edgy combination which our clients have responded very positively to.”

New for this year, Jersey Pearl has released a vintage-inspired collection called ‘Marette’, which

recalls an era of dressing for dinner and cocktails – think Elizabeth Taylor chatting to Holly Golightly over drinks. The collection revolves around three colours: silver, rose gold vermeil and black rhodium. The designs mix freshwater pearls with hand-set white topaz for instant vintage-inspired glamour. Looking back a little further is Pearl Stories’ Pearls & Josephine collection, inspired by the black singer and dancer of the 20s and 30s Josephine Baker.

Pearls of the Orient introduces an earring collection combining classic pearls with gemstones set in gold vermeil. The dynamic contrast of gems – ranging from amethyst and lapis lazuli to lavender chalcedony – with lustrous pearl drop earrings, is a modern twist on a classic pearl design. Carrying on with the current trend for fine gold vermeil jewellery it is also offering a delicate gold filigree pendant with pearl and cubic zirconia detail, which can be worn long or short on a fine gold chain.

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Mikimoto

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Gaelle Kouri

Timeless Elegance Samuel Jones Pearls is the oldest importer of pearls in Europe and this year marks our 100th year in business.

At Samuel Jones Pearls we hand select every pearl that we sell whether cultured, freshwater, Tahitian or South Sea and are proud to use British workshops and materials wherever possible. We offer an in house stringing and repair service second to none. With 100 years of experience we are experts in the supply of traditional rows of akoya pearls, carefully hand strung on silk. We also have an extensive range of pearl jewellery.

Whilst the Queen celebrates her 90th year we are delighted at how often she wears pearls. This trend is often followed by the Duchess of Cambridge and several of their pieces are available in our range.

For more information call us on +44 (0)1386 41430 or visit us online at www.sjpearls.co.uk

Pearl FEATURE

Resource, responsibility and renewal The implementation of environmentally sound practices in the pearl farming sector was highlighted at the Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem and Pearl Show earlier this year.

“The long-term viability of [the pearl sector] in the jewellery industry is dependent on the development and implementation of responsible practices, which both protect and facilitate the renewal of a bio-diverse marine environment, promoting higher quality and more sustainable resources,” said CIBJO president Gaetano Cavalieri. “Our efforts in this respect are part of a comprehensive programme to promote sustainable environmental policies in the sector.”

Pearls were also the subject of discussion at a forum during Inhorgenta in February; one of the speakers being Laurent Cartier, co-founder of SustainablePearls.org, a research project that aims to encourage “further emergence of responsible cultured pearl farming”. Its principles are: protection of the biosphere; sustainable use of natural resources; production transparency and product disclosure; socially and the culturally responsible manner of farming and management commitment and local law compliance.

Shaun Leane

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

Catwalk trends

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• • • • • •

Mis-matched earrings Ultra-long ropes and earrings Chokers – simple single strand or multi-strand Pearl-encrusted brooches Single earring – stud on chain-set Knuckle rings and multiple rings Sarah Ho

Ruth Tomlinson

Coleman Douglas Pearls

JET. THE MARK OF HIGH QUALITY EDUCATION AND TRAINING The JET programme offers the jewellery industry’s most prestigious professional development courses tailored for you, wherever you stand on the career ladder. Which means that, from sales assistant to business owner, we can help you make a mark in your career or business.

JET courses are long-established, meticulously developed and supported by experienced tutors.

Courses are completed online so they won’t disrupt your working day. And you don’t even need to be a member of the NAJ to enrol although membership entitles you to a generous discount.

No wonder over 1000 students make their mark with a JET course every year.

JET1 FOUNDATION CERTIFICATE For anyone in jewellery sales or wanting to improve their jewellery product knowledge.

Topics include customer service and complaints, gemstones, precious metals, hallmarking, jewellery types, design and manufacture, rings, silverware and gifts, watches and clocks, selling and personal development.

JET 2 DIPLOMA For students who have completed the JET Foundation course and want to gain the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma. Covers building consumer confidence, display, valuation, security, diamonds, the history of jewellery, service and repairs, pawnbroking and the law.

PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERS’ MANAGEMENT DIPLOMA For supervisors, junior managers, managers, proprietors or business owners, covering market awareness, financial variables, customer management, maximising potential, operations management and promoting your business.

A modular programme with a self-learning approach teaching the theories, methodologies and working practices required to become a jewellery valuer.

“I’m very proud to say that all of my team are JET qualified and they are also equally proud of that fact. Their performance increases exponentially with every course they complete.”

Simon Johnson, Marmalade Fine Jewellery.

Find out more about our courses, email jet@naj.co.uk, call 020 7613 4445 or visit najeducation.co.uk @UKNAJ

/NationalAssociationofJewellers

The National Association of Jewellers, Federation House, 10 Vyse Street, Birmingham B18 6LT.

JET JEWELLERY EDUCATION & TRAINING

CERTIFICATE OF APPRAISAL THEORY: CAT

Pearl FEATURE

Ping Ping

Samuel Jones Pearls

Azza Fahmy

Pearl facts • P earls are natural gems and classified as natural or cultured. Today 95%+ of pearl production is cultured, where man has introduced an irritant into an oyster or mussel, then tended it until the pearl or pearls are ready to be harvested • C ultured pearls are sub-divided into saltwater and freshwater varieties – saltwater pearls tend to be rounded and more expensive, but freshwater can be cultured in a wide range of shapes and colours • S outh Sea (mainly white, but also ranging from silver to pale pink and light gold to deep orangegold), Tahitian (naturally dark coloured), Akoya, Keshi, seed and mabe are all seawater cultured pearls • P earl necklaces come in many lengths from ‘choker’ (35-40cm) to ‘rope’ which is 100cm

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

• C ultured pearls were introduced in the early 20th century by Kokichi Mikimoto

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• N ames like Margaret, Marjorie, Gretchen and Rita mean ‘pearl’ and symbolise purity, innocence and humility • P earl is June’s gem and marks the 3rd and 30th wedding anniversaries • T he lustre of a pearl can illuminate the wearer’s face; different colour pearls will suit different skin tones.

Fei Liu

IJL Stand A70 UK family business and NAJ member – pearl jewellery, loose pearls and clasps www.rawpearls.com 01460 281 496

Utopia

Claudia Bradby

Fei Liu

Noa

Autore

Dower & Hall

Jersey Pearls Pearls of the Orient

Amrapali 56

Nexus

Pearl Stories

For more marketing home truths visit housecreative.co.uk

At the BENCH

Symphony for STRINGS

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

A creative process and a vital service – Trevor Ellis of NAJ member Nexus Pearls throws light on the stringing and restringing of pearls.

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ll our work is undertaken on our premises in the Jewellery Quarter, with five people threading in different capacities. The workload is split between customer rethreads and new Nexus creations. This helps keep things fresh and varied for the staff.

Between them they have some 40 years of job experience.

“About 80 per cent of the threading work we do is for the trade, but being Jewellery Quarter-based we tend to get local referrals too. The volumes we handle tend to vary according to the time of year; the run up to Christmas naturally being the busiest time where we can be dealing with 100 jobs a week.

“Some stringers we’ve trained have taken to it very quickly, while others can struggle to get the hang of it and take much longer. Generally six weeks to six months is needed to get the flow and speed going. Attributes required include patience, dexterity, good eyesight, commonsense and an affinity with, and understanding of, the product and materials used.

“We use a mixture of techniques and materials according to the requirements of the job. For example we use high quality silks for pearl threading but, for example, steel or titanium wire for hard beads or badly drilled items.

“How long does it take to thread a necklace? How long is a piece of thread?!

It depends on its length, the number of rows, whether it’s threaded plain or

with knots, the size of the pearls – small or tiny pearls are much harder to handle and work with... and very easy to lose!

“It also depends on whether the row is new rather than one that’s not been rethreaded for ten years and is full of gunk and nastiness. Often in these cases the thread will break off inside the pearl and have to be drilled out. This can add a lot of time to the process – just to get it to the condition for rethreading. Old simulated pearls are notorious for flaking and splitting, adding further to the time when looking for replacements.

“It also depends if it has to be fitted to someone’s neck. We often do a final fit service for multi-row necklaces, as it is actually a bespoke piece and one size doesn’t fit all!

“For a simple, straightforward, single-row knotted job, it would take about 45 minutes done correctly, with multiple knots back from the clasp for extra security.

“The main reasons why pearl necklaces, or any threaded necklaces, break is usually friction. When threads age and become stretched during wear and tear or perhaps physical duress (pulled by children maybe), they slacken and allow movement of the pearl on the string. Over time this movement chews away at the thread and eventually breaks at the weakest point.

“For this reason necklaces should be rethreaded, on average, every 12 to 18 months, depending on how much

wear they get. At the very least a visual inspection should be made periodically to look for signs of wear and therefore avoid breakage and potential loss.

“People often have misconceptions about their pearls and we’ve had to gently put them straight, typically with granny’s simulated pearls, long thought to be cultured, or even natural. Then there are those who’ve visited some far-flung country and returned with a ‘Bargain South Sea Strand’, which we’ve had to explain was neither a ‘bargain’ or ‘South Sea’. I think the Latin expression is caveat emptor!”

Janie’s Stringing has been established for over 30 years and offers a postal pearl stringing and jewellery restringing service, normally with a one-week turnaround. Kent-based Janie Stansbury specialises in matching lost pearls and beads and will redesign pieces if needed. www.janie-stringing.co.uk

Spotlight on GEMSTONES

Earrings by Rodney Rayner Ring by Kat Florence Loose stones from Bridges Tsavorite

O

ften regarded as among the more desirable and valuable forms, tsavorite is the green variety of a subgroup of garnets known as grossular garnets, and has relatively few sources.

Gemmologically speaking, it’s a calcium aluminium garnet and forms under the cubic crystal system, making it isotropic, and so having no directional properties, such as pleochroism. Unlike stones such as tanzanite, here there’s no change in colour with direction, so what you see is what you get. The green colouration is caused by the presence of chromium, or vanadium, the same elements that give the green colour to emerald. Tsavorite is a relative newcomer to the gem market, first reported in 1967, but from a source that proved problematic to bring to market thanks to permit issues. A second, more accessible, deposit was found in Kenya in 1971, by the same gem prospector / geologist, Campbell Bridges (sadly now deceased). The bright, lustrous green crystals he found were of a material unknown to gemmologists, and so were still unnamed.

This stone might have remained unknown to all but a few mineral collectors were it not for a meeting between Bridges and Sir Henry Platt, then president of Tiffany & Co. He saw the stone’s potential and suggested the name Having looked at garnets as a group, Andrew Fellows (FGA DGA CDG) tsavorite, after the Tsavo National Park, in the area where turns his attention to one particular variety – tsavorite. the stone was found. A marketing campaign subsequently followed, and the rest is history. The stone’s popularity grew.

But what makes tsavorite special – apart from its relative rarity, being found in only a few locations (Kenya, Madagascar and Pakistan), in relatively small quantities? Most crystals found are small, yielding stones under the carat size (although very occasionally large crystals are found, like the 925ct rough found in 2006, which, when cut, yielded a 325ct oval, thought to be the world’s largest). The key to tsavorite’s desirability lies in its optical properties. A relatively high refractive index and a dispersion factor of 0.028 combine to impart a liveliness and brilliance that are seldom seen in other gemstones, allowing it to sit alongside diamonds without appearing flat or dull by comparison. This is also an interesting gem from another standpoint, and one that provides a good selling point – tsavorites are not treated in any way to improve their appearance. Heating, oiling, irradiation, fracture filling, all the common or potential treatments that cause a stir in the trade, are not applied to this beautiful garnet. It is literally only nature and the cutter’s skill that produce the final stone and its intrinsic beauty. From a sales point of view, tsavorite provides an excellent alternative to the more commonly seen emerald. With a hardness of about 7.5 on the Mohs’ scale, it’s of a similar level, but emerald is a brittle material, hence the ‘emerald-cut’ designed to protect the stone by the removal of corners. Tsavorite is far more durable – there’s less chance of damaging the stone during setting, giving a greater range of shapes. The refractive index is higher than that of emerald, adding to the lustre difference, and dispersion is over three times higher in tsavorite, meaning that the garnet has far more fire and life than an emerald. So, advantages all round. If it wasn’t for the limited supply and the fact that it’s less familiar, tsavorite could easily take emerald’s place as one of the most respected and sought after gems! Imagine a stone found almost exclusively in one of the last wildernesses on earth and older than the mountains in the foothills of which it’s found – pretty romantic!

Romancing

THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

THE

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STONE

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EXTRACTING full value

IRV LOUGHBOROUGH 2016 THE MARK OF PROFESSIONAL VALUATION

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With a stellar line-up of speakers, the Institute of Registered Valuers’ popular weekend event is fast approaching.

Sandra Page outlines what’s in store for delegates across the whole industry.

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he NAJ’s IRV Loughborough Conference, which welcomes all NAJ members – as well as non-members – takes place this year over the long weekend of Saturday 17th to Monday 19th September. For the 26th year running we are returning to our tried-and-tested, first class venue, Loughborough University of Technology. Given that it has a four-star hotel on-site, where we accommodate delegates and guest speakers, this location is ideal for our Conference needs – nowhere else can provide sufficient rooms for our unique programme and at such excellent prices!

Peter Buckie and Barbara Leal

Shirley Mitchell

David Callaghan

Graham Price

Steve Carson

Andrée Richardson

Rosamond Clayton Nicola and Michael Cohen

Chris Simpson (Guild of Valuers & Jewellers)

Pat Daly

Barry Sullivan

Michael Donaldson Richard Drucker

Rebecca Tucker and Chris Sellors

Kerry Gregory

John Watson

Julia Griffiths

Alan Wetherall and Catriona Smith

Early rate £480.00 (available until 22nd July)

£495.00

£460.00

Michael Inkpen

Joanna Whalley

£495.00

Stephen Whittaker

Standard rate £515.00 (available 23rd July–26th August)

£535.00

Tracy Jukes Ken Massow

Jason Williams

Late rate £550.00 £575.00 (available 27th August–7th September)

£530.00

Michael Payne

Alan Hodgkinson

In addition, the following guest speakers will be giving main presentations: Saturday:

Sunday:

Stephen Whittaker David Callaghan followed by followed by John Benjamin Dr Kevin Coates

Monday: Charles Carmona followed by Richard Drucker

We are delighted to have persuaded Richard Drucker to return this year following his popularity at last year’s Conference (we’ve managed to break the ‘once every seven years’ rule!) and also welcome renowned American gemmologist, appraiser and author of ‘The Complete Handbook for Gemstone Weight Estimation’, Charles Carmona, to his first Loughborough Conference.

We are also honoured that Dr Kevin Coates, one of the trade’s exceptional designers and goldsmiths, has accepted the Institute’s invitation to give a main presentation – something he rarely does so delegates are promised a real treat.

We also welcome regular stalwarts of our Conference, Stephen Whittaker from Fellows in Birmingham and BBC Antiques Roadshow specialist John Benjamin. And what would Loughborough be without our customary main attraction, David Callaghan, who is going to take delegates back to the old days with ‘Was it better then or now?’

Also new for this year, on Sunday afternoon there will be an attraction for the valuers of the future: our Welcome to Valuing Sessions. FIRVs Shirley Mitchell, Andrée Richardson, Tim Bicknell and Barry Sullivan will run through what a valuer does in their day-to-day business, to give an insight into this specialised aspect of the jewellery trade. Delegates wishing to attend just this part of the Conference can do so for the special price of £50 (plus VAT) which includes lunch AND also a £50 voucher to put towards an NAJ educational course or seminar.

IRV LOUGHBOROUGH 2016

The full Conference Package Fees start from £460 plus VAT for members, per person willing to share a bedroom and include all of the following: • Six main presentations and six (new for 2016: one more than in previous years) workshops across the Saturday, Sunday and Monday • Opportunities to purchase instruments and books • Learning all about valuation software available in the UK • A Gemstone Market where delegates can view and purchase gemstones from the country’s leading gemstone dealers • Various hand-outs • Accommodation in Burleigh Court on Saturday and Sunday • Two breakfasts, three lunches and two dinners (with wine) • A Welcome Reception (with wine) • Afternoon and morning tea/coffee/biscuit breaks • There will also be a free raffle for a copy of Alan Hodgkinson’s highly successful book, Gem Testing Techniques, courtesy of guest speaker Steve Carson.

There is a choice of rooms available and prices, depending on when you book, are as follows: Accommodation

Lodge Executive Executive room single share

The above prices are for members, per person, and are subject to VAT. There are also suites and junior suites available (prices available upon request).

Non-members can also attend for an additional £120 plus VAT per person. (If you are a non-member of the NAJ but a member of another organisation, for example the Gem-A or British Horological Institute, and another four non-NAJ members from those organisations also want to attend, you can all attend for the NAJ member rate).

Delegates can also arrive on the Friday if they wish, for a small extra cost (to cover dinner and accommodation). You can also attend as a non-residential delegate or for part rather than all of the Conference. Contact Sandra Page, the Conference organiser, for prices on: 029 2081 3615.

As we go to press, this year’s Conference is sponsored by our regular supporter, Gem-A, which will be our Diamond Sponsor. TH March insurers is a Gold Sponsor together with AnchorCert Academy, while Quantum Leap (PAS) and Crown of Light Diamonds will be two of our Silver Sponsors. Invitations have been extended to other organisations and companies within our trade, who we hope will also sponsor the event and details will be publicised in due course. We are grateful to them for their generous support.

The brochure and booking form for the Conference will be available by either contacting Sandra Page at irv@naj.co.uk or it can be downloaded from the IRV website’s ‘Loughborough Conference’ page. All IRVs are automatically sent a copy, as are non-IRVs who attended the 2015 and 2014 Conferences, plus those who have already registered an interest.

Loughborough is a weekend not to be missed – just ask the delegates who have been coming every year for the last two decades or more!

THE MARK OF PROFESSIONAL VALUATION

Once again our Conference has a great line up of guest speakers – at the time of writing, an impressive 34 specialists from our industry covering topics such as valuation/appraisal methodology (including valuation software packages, being an expert witness, probate, post-loss assessment, condition reports, problems and how to put the theory of valuing into practice), diamonds, various coloured gemstones (identification, pricing, testing, etc.), silver, antique jewellery, hallmarking, business promotion, horology, manufacturing and insurance.

Our programme includes a record 28 workshops to select from – some are repeats from previous years (for those delegates who couldn’t attend them previously) and many new ones. The following specialists will be running workshops this year:

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Industry NEWS THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

LETTER to the EDITOR April’s ‘Last Word’ brought back memories of those who helped to form the industry as it is now, and an appreciation of their efforts. Paul Podolsky was one who helped newcomers into the trade, with no other thought than to pass on knowledge and experience and to develop the role of the jewellery market by helping another generation.

In the early ’80s I was still a relative newcomer and back then it could be difficult to find out how things worked, where to get the best information and how to tackle many manufacturing challenges. This may well be because I was not jewellery-trained, coming from a finance and marketing background!

Joining the BJA seemed a good idea and I frequently attended the regular meetings. This was a difficult time for the trade; we all go to more meetings when we are powerless to do anything about events beyond our control!

The good outcome of such meetings can be the business friendships that develop and Paul Podolsky was one of the outstanding ones. He was always helpful and passionate about the jewellery business and shared that passion with myself, and others. He was one of a small group who had the same vision of jewellery’s long-term future and they passed this on. In due course they encouraged interested people to engage more with the BJA; they could see that it was necessary to develop and change, to meet the future prepared. Freddie Durst and Gerald Kaymen were also of that generation and I feel an especial debt for their welcome then.

With that support I saw the value of taking a role in the industry and eventually became a chairman of the BJA. I, and I’m sure many others, owe much to Paul and it was a pleasure to read that he’s still going strong. I learnt from the article that typically he continues to encourage and mentor others, even in his art class, where I’m sure he is just as accomplished.

Dennis Allen, Business Development Advisor.

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OROAREZZO expands as VICENZAORO moves to Dubai The OroArezzo gold jewellery fair is boosting its international profile as it sets out to fill the gap created by the exporting of the Spring edition of the Vicenza fair to Dubai.

OroArezzo, which presents an extraordinarily wide variety of intricate contemporary gold jewellery designs as well as gold and silver chains, was a small regional show for decades, but has now joined the calendar of international trade events.

Some 450 buyers from the United States, the Middle East, and Russia, as well as Hong Kong and Europe, visited OroArezzo between 7th and 11th May. “The world is here,” said Andrea Boldi, president of the Arezzo fairs, referring to the diversity of buyers. Alessandro Chiampesan, MD of Chiampesan Gioielli, said OroArezzo attracted a wider cross-section of buyers than VicenzaOro Dubai, where he had exhibited in April.

“At VicenzaOro Dubai the buyers were mainly from the Middle East, Russia and former Soviet countries, and Asia, whereas at OroArezzo, we see also buyers from the United States and Europe,” Chiampesan said.

Exhibitors talked of challenging economic times due to the impact of the slide in oil prices in the Middle East, the number one market for Italian gold jewellery exports; the slowdown

of China’s economy; weakness of the rouble, and choppy financial and precious metals markets. However, sentiment at OroArezzo was overwhelmingly upbeat, signalling resilient demand for gold jewellery despite the volatility and surge in bullion prices this year.

“We can talk about the woes of the global economy, but we have to chart our own way forward in the jewellery sector,” said Giovanni Papini, sales manager with Desire Gioielli, Arezzo. Eran Shem-Tov, a director of London-based manufacturer Stubbs & Co, said: “There is a very confident mood here.” He noted that the show had expanded since he started visiting a few years ago.

William Haskey, UK representative of Italian gold jewellery manufacturer UNOAERRE, said yellow and rose gold jewellery and chains were emphatically back in fashion.

UNOAERRE, which celebrated its 90th anniversary at OroArezzo, has used the latest technologies and certification to remain competitive in a tough international market, said international sales manager Alessandro Bruni.

He spoke of a sustained strengthening of the US market and said Middle Eastern demand for gold jewellery had held up well so far despite the fall in oil prices.

David Brough.

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OPINION THE MARK OF INDUSTRY INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

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Andrew Hinds: My experience is very similar to Gary’s.

I was asked to join the N.A.G.’s board a few years ago and for me too it has been a unique honour to be chairman of the N.A.G. and then NAJ. I signed up because our family felt that it was our turn to contribute to the industry and the Association. We were aware of the amazing contribution that many single-store independent jewellers had made over the On the eve of selecting Simon Johnson as the decades, which enabled the Association to continue and to thrive. As a multiple retailer, new NAJ chairman, we hear from Gary Wroe of but also coming from a multi-generation, Hockley Mint and Andrew Hinds of F. Hinds – independent family business, I hope I’ve our two departing chairmen – who give us their been well-placed to see the viewpoints of those from different parts of our uniquely final thoughts on their past two years in office. varied industry.

Clearly my time as chairman has been Gary Wroe: more of a commitment than I anticipated, but it’s been very Where has the time gone? Two years seems a long time, but rewarding working with all those involved. A key reason the add the chairmanship of an Association to it and it slips by in unification succeeded was because everyone was interested a moment. only in the success of our trade and our Association; no Before joining the BJA’s national committee, I’d never personality issues or hidden agendas, which would surely have considered the position of chairman. With an open mind, I led to failure. For this I thank Simon Johnson, Helen O’Neill, ventured to find out more about the Association. Preliminary Pravin Pattni, Gary Williams, and our external chair Michael unification talks had commenced and soon after my appointment Donaldson. the merger committee was formed. After formulating a solid Above all, this applies to Gary Wroe, who I knew less well framework and timelines with which to work from, we began than most at the start of the process, but who I’ve probably work. Was it easy? No, but the determination of the team and spoken to more often over the past two years than many of my the vision of the Association’s potential ensured our goal could friends, family and colleagues and who I’ve certainly argued be accomplished. with less!

What will remain with me forever are the friendships formed I am also grateful to the near-universal support we’ve had along the way; working with the staff of both Associations, from members, especially those who asked difficult questions national committee, merger committee and Andrew Hinds has during the process and then supported us when they were been exceptional. Meeting members at trade shows and events satisfied they had been answered. has allowed me to discuss industry issues at an unprecedented The same applies to all at the BJA and N.A.G., including level. For me, the highlight was presenting to the membership both chief executives. I’ve been impressed with how well the the importance of the unification for securing a successful staff have become a single team, despite being well over 100 future for our industry. At times it’s been difficult. We always miles apart and coming from separate Associations, each with knew there could be only one CEO – both Michael Rawlinson its own proud history stretching back to the 19th century. and Simon Rainer conducted themselves with professionalism Many others from across the trade have helped too – and admirable integrity throughout the process. thank you to everyone. Since unification we’ve been humbled We’ve created a foundation for the trade, which can help by the number of talented and experienced people who have establish relationships between designers, manufacturers, volunteered to help take the NAJ forward by giving up their retailers and trade suppliers. We can explore best practice, time. We have volunteers from designers, manufacturers, share ideas and information and represent the whole trade. retailers and trade suppliers who will represent our common Through steering committees, we can address the industry’s interests but also provide support for individual sectors. needs with specialists on hand to deliver in their discipline.

I am delighted that those leading the two Associations have I’d like to encourage as many members as possible to join managed to achieve unification during Gary’s and my tenure. these groups and contribute to our industry’s future. Behind We may have succeeded in bringing the BJA and N.A.G. the scenes, the NAJ has an impeccable team to support and together, but we know that the true test of success will be what encourage members. happens from here. I am confident that we leave the NAJ in the My time as chairman has been an honour, providing me with safe hands of the incoming chairman Simon Johnson. an invaluable experience for which I will be forever grateful.

The (very)

LAST

WORD

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