Fischer iceland excerpt by National Graphics

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I would like to dedicate this book to Jón Gauti Jónsson and his wife Hulda Steingrímsdóttir, who first introduced me to the many wonders of Iceland and inspired me to return to capture more of its beauty. —GEORGE FISCHER

Gentle waves caress the southwest shore below the Malarrif lighthouse. SNÆFELLSNES PENINSULA, WEST ICELAND

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First and foremost I would like to thank my long-time assistant Jean Lepage, and my son Sean Fischer for following me on another great adventure of discovery. To Catharine Barker—as always—for creating another masterpiece of fresh, innovative design in her unique style. To E. Lisa Moses, for translating my thoughts into words that truly describe my experiences. To Steinunn Sigvaldadóttir and the crew of North Sailing in Húsavík for the spectacular whale-watching cruise. To the owner of Hótel Flatey, Ingibjörg Ásta: thanks for the wonderful accommodations and the magnificent scenery on Flatey Island that truly inspired me, and rejuvenated my mind and body. To Fanný Lilja Hermundardóttir of Seatours, and the Ferry Baldur folks for providing me with such a scenic boat ride to and from Flatey Island. To Jim Nikiforos of Marlin Travel for putting together a great itinerary and getting me where I needed to be. To Icelandair and Michael Raucheisen for getting me safely to this beautiful country. To our Canadian Ambassador to Iceland, Stewart Wheeler, for his wisdom and advice on the Iceland book project. For allowing me to photograph them I would like to thank: Hulda Steingrímsdóttir and Hera Gautadóttir Anita and Grímur Vilhelmsson from Garður Silja Árnadóttir, Anna Jónína Valgeirsdóttir and Kristín Elísa Árnadóttir from Húsavík Selina Barkerdóttir Pungur Silungs Heimir Hardarsson.

Kirkjufell (Church Mountain) rises in a dreamlike landscape. It is the major landmark of Grundarfjörður, the nearest town. SNÆFELLSNES PENINSULA

Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means without prior written permission from the photographer, George Fischer.

Fischer, George, 1954-, photographer

www.georgefischerphotography.com

Iceland : reflections on the Ring Road / photography by George Fischer, Sean Fischer, Jón Gauti Jónsson.

Photos by George Fischer Design and captions by Catharine Barker, National Graphics, Toronto, ON, Canada

ISBN 978-1-77108-305-8 (bound)

Copy editor: E. Lisa Moses Nimbus Publishing Limited PO Box 9166 Halifax, NS Canada B3K 5MB Tel.: 902-455-4286

1. Iceland—Pictorial works. I. Fischer, Sean, 1989-, photographer II. Jón Gauti Jónsson, 1969-, photographer III. Title.

Printed in China DL307.F58 2015 2

914.912

C2015-900307-5

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Landmannalaugar, at the edge of the Laugahraun lava field, displays the Rhyolite Mountains of colourful volcanic rock formed by an eruption in the late 15th century. FJALLABAK NATURE RESERVE 4

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Those familial bonds form the bedrock of the close relationship between Canada and Iceland… In the last decades of the 19th century, tens of thousands of Icelanders left the ports of Iceland bound for Canada and the prospect of a building a new life filled with opportunity. The descendants of those brave pioneers – the Vesturíslendingar or “Western Icelanders” – spread out from Gimli, Manitoba all across Canada and into the United States. They now represent the largest diaspora of people of Icelandic descent anywhere in the world and the connections to their cousins in Iceland remain strong to this day. Those familial bonds form the bedrock of the close relationship between Canada and Iceland expressed through shared fundamental values as Arctic neighbours, allies, and trading partners. Iceland – Reflections on the Ring Road takes us on a wonderful adventure. The extraordinary work of George Fischer, Sean Fischer and Jón Gauti Jónsson vividly captures the stunning beauty that is around every corner as one travels this beautiful land. As Ambassador of Canada to Iceland I have had the honour to explore this same road discovering along the way the breathtaking diversity of Iceland’s fjords and majestic waterfalls and rivers, its mountains and fertile valleys, its volcanoes and lava fields, at once rugged and ethereal. At every turn, I have also been touched by the warm hospitality and generosity of

PREFACE

Stewart Wheeler Canada’s Ambassador to Iceland

spirit of the people who inhabit Iceland’s towns, villages, ports and farms. Connected by the Arctic Circle, Canada and Iceland work closely together in the Arctic Council to promote development for the people of the North. We strive together to build sustainable circumpolar communities; places where people who live so far North can make their lives, develop and thrive. It is this human dimension that is at the centre of our work together and that element is captured so brilliantly by these photographers’ keen eyes and skillful use of their lenses. I invite readers to take a journey through the pages of this rich collection of images; a journey which will lead them around the magnificent Ring Road that connects communities all over Iceland and which will bring them right to the heart of the Icelandic soul, through the connection of its people to this land.

Stewart Wheeler Stewart Wheeler

Ambassador of Canada to the Republic of Iceland 5

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The Ring Road is Iceland’s main artery, circumnavigating the country for 1332 kilometres (828 miles) and connecting most of its communities. With some of the most spectacular scenery in the world adorning it like jewels on a necklace, this road is a photographer’s utopia. While I have been capturing unique images globally for more than two decades, I still found new and exciting themes and subjects in this enchanted island nation.

RING ROAD around THE

And I’m thrilled to share these gems with you from one of my most unforgettable journeys. —George Fischer

ÖX

G rímsey

Hornbjarg

A RF

Ís af

ÐU R

DALVÍK

RÐ

KRAFLA REYKJAHLÍÐ

AKUREYRI

Ar narvatnshe iði

Kjölur

Glymur AKRANES

Geysir Gullfoss Golden Circle

Þóris va tn

Snæfell

Lakagígar Hekla

Blue Lagoon

Landmannalaugar

SELFOSS GRINDAVÍK

KIRKJUBÆJARKLAUSTUR

ÞORLÁKSHÖFN

THE REYKJANES PENINSULA

EYJAFJALLAJÖKULL MÝRDALSJÖKULL

Skógafoss VÍK

Reynisfjara

fjör ður

BREIÐDALSVÍK

Papey

HÖFN

SKAFTAFELL

Rey ðar

DJÚPIVOGUR

L L K U Ö J

KEFLAVÍK

HAFNIR

MJÓIFJÖRÐUR

FÁSKRÚÐSFJÖRÐUR

Kverkfjöll

REYKJAVÍK GARÐUR

Askja

B á rða rbunga

F A XA F L ÓI

SEYÐISFJÖRÐUR EGILSSTAÐIR ESKIFJÖRÐUR REYÐARFJÖRÐUR

H OF S J ÖK U L L

JÖ

THE SNÆFELLSNES PENINSULA

E ir í k s j ök ull

N or

ðu

Snæfellsjökull

rá

GRUNDARFJÖRÐUR

Gerpir

SP RE NG IS AN DU R

STYKKISHÓLMUR

rð

THE EAST FJORDS

B R E I ÐAF J ÖR ÐUR

jö

Selfoss

Fjö ll ls á á

B la n

LAUGARBAKKI

f na

Jö k u

Mýv a tn

VARMAHLÍÐ

Fl atey

ÞÓRSHÖFN

D ett i fos s

Goðafoss

Hvítserkur

HÚSAVÍK

SAUÐÁRKRÓKUR

Borgarfjörður Eystra

rð

GRENIVÍK

Þi

jö

F JÖ

rð

ÁLF

ÐU

SKA

ÖR

úp

jö

SKJ

A FJ

Dra ng a j ö k u ll

JÖ R

rð

EY J

THE WEST FJORDS

f t il

Jökulsárlón

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Sunset descends in the northern region over a long valley framed by a mountain range. EAST OF LJÓSAVATNSSKARÐ

The stone Malarrif lighthouse dwarfs Lóndrangar, a pair of volcanic basalt plugs formed by erosion. SNÆFELLSNES PENINSULA, WEST ICELAND 7

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One of the most popular destinations in Iceland, Gullfoss (Golden Waterfall) escaped the fate of being harnessed for power generation through the actions of Sigriður Tómasdóttir. Often considered Iceland’s first environmentalist, she is a visionary whose story is worth reading. SOUTHWEST ICELAND, ON THE HVÍTÁ (WHITE) RIVER 15

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More than 10,000 windows shimmer on the façade of Harpa, the Reykjavík Concert Hall and Conference Centre. Countless prisms engage the light and play with colour. REYKJAVÍK 16

Hexagonal basalt columns hang like curtains behind the 20-metre (66-foot) plunge of Svartifoss. SKAFTAFELL NATIONAL PARK, SOUTHEAST ICELAND

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A group of hikers in the Bláfjöll (Blue Mountains) is undeterred in midwinter when the sun is low and casts long shadows. Reykjavík, the northernmost capital in the world, can be seen in the distance. SOUTHWEST ICELAND 19

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Mountaineers attain the summit of Sveinstindur (2044 metres / 6700 feet), the second-highest peak in Iceland, nesting on the rim of the Öræfajökull caldera. It affords a sensational view of the country’s midsection. SOUTHEAST ICELAND 32

Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall bypasses Kirkjufell mountain in a dramatic rush to the sea. SNÆFELLSNES PENINSULA

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Atlantic puffins always look smartly dressed, with tidy white chests, black wings, flashy red beaks and orange feet. But photographing these elusive birds is a huge challenge since they live at sea. While they come ashore during mating season and lay their eggs in clifftop colonies, the newly formed pairs head right back out once their business is done. During my photographic career I had shot a puffin only once—on Canada’s Magdalen Islands. The image was not exactly what I’d had in mind, since the feathered prey was swimming quite a distance from shore. But it was still an unusual shot since puffins are generally photographed on cliffs. When I disembarked from the Flatey Island ferry in northwest Iceland, excitement hit when I saw puffins listed on an interpretive sign describing the huge variety of bird life. My elation was tempered by the fact that my one-day stay would severely limit my chances of “bagging a bird.” Nevertheless, after settling in at the historic Hótel Flatey, I followed the shoreline to the edge of the cliffs where I was amazed to see hundreds of puffins. But they were all out at sea, fishing and splashing, too far away for even my 300mm lens. After trying in vain to get interesting photos of the birds bobbing in and out of the water, I decided to rest against a comfortable boulder moulded to the shape of my body. As I took in the magnificent view of the sea and the islands, relishing the serenity and solitude, I turned my head to the left—and caught sight of a lone puffin perched on a rock about seven metres (20 feet) away, quietly grooming himself. I couldn’t believe my eyes—and my luck in still having the 300mm lens on the camera so I didn’t have to shuffle around Plush souvenir puffins for sale.

and scare him off. I gently shifted to the left and began shooting until he flew away—and in the “15 seconds of fame” that he allowed me, I managed to get 10 quintessential shots, including one of him in flight.

CLEARLY, Fl atey

BR EI ÐAFJ ÖR ÐUR

ONE PUFFIN ON A ROCK IS WORTH A HUNDRED IN THE SEA .

The village of Flatey attracts various migratory birds, including the puffin. The Latin origin of their name means “little brother,” since their plumage was seen as emulating monks’ robes. BREIÐAFJÖRÐUR, WEST ICELAND

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Catch the panoramic view of Reykjavík — best from the top of Hallgrímskirkja church. Take in the Reynisfjall mountain viewpoints of the Reynisdrangar basalt sea stacks, near Vík í Mýrdal. Explore Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. Whale-watch from Húsavík in Skagafjörður. Drive on the “road of snow” to Mjóifjörður. Meander through the colourful streets of Seyðisfjörður, East Fjords. Survey the the extinct, blue-green volcano of Víti Crater in Mývatn. Check out Dettifoss waterfall from the east side entrance (Road F-864 near Ásbyrgi). Hike to Glymur waterfall—the highest in Iceland. Investigate the Cape Dyrhólaey lighthouse near Vík í Mýrdal.

F-87, the gravel road to Húsavík. NORTH ICELAND

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The still, glacial waters of Jökulsárlón lagoon run to a depth of more than 248 metres (814 feet). Movies such as James Bond: A View to a Kill and Die Another Day, Batman Begins, and Lara Croft’s Tomb Raider have capitalized on the beauty of this unique location. VATNAJÖKULL NATIONAL PARK, SOUTHEAST ICELAND 138

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139

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Hardy vegetation clings to a rocky outcrop where wild plants and moss live happily in the moist climate. SOUTH ICELAND 176

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The epitome of beautiful Icelandic women, Hulda Steingrímsdóttir and Hera Gautadóttir enjoy a warm mother/daughter hug. REYKJAVÍK 177

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Steaming mud pots in the Seltún geothermal field of Krýsuvík meander through red and yellow soil. REYKJANES PENINSULA 186

Natural hot springs nestled in the rhyolite hummocks are a popular tourist spot in Landmannalaugar. FJALLABAK NATURE RESERVE, HIGHLAND

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200

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Elegant and tough, Icelandic horses were first brought to the island by Viking settlers. An ancient law prohibiting further importation of horses is still in effect today, preserving the unique purebred that is known worldwide. NORTH ICELAND 201

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Ocean surf pounds the cliffs at Malarrif. SNÆFELLSNES PENINSULA, WEST ICELAND 241

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Listen to the Urriðafoss waterfall in Iceland’s longest glacier river Þjórsá. Take a guided tour on the Sólheimajökull glacier. Trek Skaftafell from one of the many hiking trails. Tour Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon on a Zodiac boat. Explore the Borgarfjörður Eystri and nearby inlets. Check out the natural geothermal pool, Grjótagjá, near Mývatn. Look over Héðinsfjörður, a remote fjord on Tröllaskagi. Swim in the Krossneslaug pool in Norðurfjörður. Take a tour to Ingólfshöfði with a local farmer. Add the West Fjords to your plan. Mountain guides train for glacier crevasse rescues on the Svínafellsjökull glacier—not for the faint of heart. SOUTHEAST ICELAND 242

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Dating back to 900 AD, the 13-building Glaumbær farm boasts a rich history and is now a museum. The site includes turf houses engineered by settlers who brought the idea from Norway. In the harsh climate of Iceland, turf was readily available and provided insulation that was superior to wood or stone. SKAGAFJÖRÐUR, NORTH ICELAND 258

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Icebergs and smaller ice pieces (growlers) meander serenely around Fjalls谩rl贸n glacier lagoon as a haze moves in to temper the glacial hues. SOUTHEAST ICELAND

Trekking in Iceland is very popular and almost every village has a campsite. 259

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The Laugavegurinn route is a treat for hikers and nature enthusiasts who inevitably fall under the spell of gorgeous vistas. The trail starts in Landmannalaugar and finishes in Þórsmörk, named after the Norse god THor. HIGHLAND 265

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Black volcanic sand contrasts sharply with the white waves rolling in on Reynisfjara beach. NEAR VÍK Í MÝRDAL, SOUTH ICELAND

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On the southernmost tip of Iceland, the imposing lighthouse at Cape Dyrhólaey sits on a precipice offering unsurpassed views in every direction—even to the South Pole. SOUTH ICELAND 295

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J EAN L E PAGE

G EORGE F ISCHER

Born in Sablé-sur-Sarthe, France, Jean-Louis Lepage traveled extensively

George Fischer is one of Canada’s most renowned and prolific landscape

across Europe between the ages of 18 and 25. He came to Canada in 1966,

photographers. He has produced over 50 books, 50 art posters and

settling first in Montréal for 18 months, then moving to Toronto. Jean-Louis

numerous prints. George’s work has appeared on the covers of countless

has visited at least one different country every year for the past 25 years, and

international magazines and newspapers, and in the promotional publications

over his lifetime has seen more than 85 countries. Since 1991, he has worked

of tourism agencies around the world. His two most recent publications,

as George Fischer’s assistant on more than 40 photography books featuring

Canada in Colour/En Couleurs and Exotic Places & Faces, are stunning

various countries. He likes to travel to the mountainous regions of Mexico in

compilations of his extensive travels. George’s book titled Unforgettable

the winter and Europe in the fall. His home base is Toronto, Canada.

Canada was on The Globe and Mail ’s bestseller list for eight weeks and sold over 50,000 copies. Other titles in the Unforgettable series include:

Unforgettable Tuscany & Florence, Unforgettable Paris Inoubliable, Unforgettable Atlantic Canada, The 1000 Islands—Unforgettable, and Les Îles de la Madeleine Inoubliables. His most recent publication was Canada In Colour / En Couleurs. Currently George is working on several new books including Iceland, Saskatchewan, and Canada’s Exotic North. He resides in Toronto, Canada. See more of George Fischer’s work at www.georgefischerphotography.com

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S EAN F ISCH ER

J ÓN G AUTI

Sean Fischer is a professional musician and photographer who has

Jón Gauti was born in Reykjavík on a cold February evening in 1969, and

accompanied his father on photographic assignments in Panamá, Jordan,

became fascinated by the landscape at age 16 when he started climbing and

Bolivia, Peru, France and Tanzania, as well as Canada and the U.S.A. His

mountaineering. He studied to become a registered nurse (BSc) at the

images have appeared on posters and in books on Charlevoix, Paris, Atlantic

University of Iceland but his passion for adventure lured him back into

Canada and Toronto. With his extensive musical training, Sean has also written

travelling and mountain-guiding.

the musical score and lyrics for three DVDs featuring George Fischer images.

For two years, Jón was the editor-in-chief of Útivera, an outdoor magazine,

He has been heavily involved in production for Canadian film and television,

and has written two successful books. His second, Fjallabókin, was nominated

particularly in creating the theme songs for HGTV’s Four Houses Canada and

for the Icelandic Literary Award in 2013. Jón also makes radio and television

numerous spots in Canadian television and advertisements. Sean is an avid

appearances as an assistant host and survival expert. Since 1999, he has

commercial songwriter/producer and has enjoyed a number of international

taught at various guiding companies including the Icelandic Guiding School.

song placements. Currently he is a full-time composer, writing for the Toronto production house Vapor Music.

Jón is married to Hulda Steingrímsdóttir, an environmental consultant with Alta Consulting and they live with their three children in downtown Reykjavík. Jón owns and operates his own company (www.mountaintours.is) and provides hiking, mountaineering, cross-country and alpine skiing, and rock- and iceclimbing adventures. He also offers courses on general mountaineering and glacier travel, lectures on outdoor recreation and consults for the film industry.