TH E ES SENTIAL MAGA ZI N E FO R SALO N OWN ERS
salonfocus Rise of the renters
AUTUMN 2019
Piecing together a picture of the industry’s future
P21: WINTER TIPS Keeping a cool head with party season just around the corner
01 Cover_Autumn 2019_Salon Focus 1
P27: COMPLAINTS Angry tweets and unimpressed posts... What should you do?
P34: SALON SAVINGS Cutting costs to survive and thrive in today’s climate
P38: CHILDREN Could cuts for kids generate a new revenue stream for your salon?
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AUTU M N 201 9
contents
THE CUT 5
30
Hello and welcome President Ian Egerton on award win for salonfocus and the upcoming NHF/NBF celebrations
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The 13 things you need to know this issue
21
From plastics ban to booking trends, childcare costs to sick pay and bank holiday change in 2020
21 Winter tips
THE BUSINESS 16 The future
COV STORER Y
As the number of chair renters and salon sharers is rising, will we see an end to employed staff?
34
Keep a cool head and stay on top as party season kicks off
THE INSPIRATION 48 Mood board
24 Advice What do you wish you’d known when you were starting out?
27 Complaints Online grumblings... Good old-fashioned customer service rules still apply
3
Is it Instagrammable? Autumnal hair, facial fashions and new nails
50 What's trending New products and the latest market patterns
52 How to... 30 BDD Spotting the signs of body dysmorphic disorder
34 Salon savings Where do you begin when cutting costs?
Refurbish your salon on a budget
THE NHF/NBF 54 Round-up Key news and messages
38 Children Could kids be the answer to raising revenue?
57 Events Get your glad rags on... Awards season is almost upon us
43 Discounting Don’t do deals and deduct, grow by adding value
47 T Levels What are they, what will they cover and replace?
THE END 58 24 hours with... 2019’s Step Up & SHINE winner Amanda Linehan
SALONFOCUS | AUTUMN 2019 SA
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HELLO A ND W ELCOME T HE CU T
IS THE RISE IN SELF-EMPLOYMENT A CHALLENGE OR AN OPPORTUNITY FOR THE INDUSTRY?
The magazine of the National Hairdressers’ Federation and the National Beauty Federation
NHF/NBF PRESIDENT
THE NHF/NBF One Abbey Court Fraser Road Priory Business Park Bedford MK44 3WH 01234 831965 nhf.info sfenquiries@salonfocus.co.uk
IAN EGERTON
CHIEF EXECUTIVE Hilary Hall
DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Victoria Priestley victoria.priestley@nhf.info 01234 834386
EDITORIAL Editor Emma Godfrey emma@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk 020 7324 2751 Content sub-editor James Hundleby james@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk
DESIGN Lead designer Carrie Bremner Picture researcher Charlie Hedges
ADVERTISING advertising@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk 020 7880 6230
PRODUCTION Production director Jane Easterman Account director Will Hurrell will.hurrell@redactive.co.uk 020 7880 6248
PRINTER
elcome to our Autumn issue – the first edition since becoming awardwinning! The magazine was crowned ‘Magazine of the Year’ at the Trade Association Forum’s Best Practice Awards 2019. It was a great evening and I was thrilled to be there to hear our name called out. The judges praised the magazine for understanding its audience, its clear editorial vision and how good it looks. See page 12 for a picture of the team collecting the award.
W
"
Others who should also feel proud are the finalists of the 2019 NHF/NBF awards – Business Awards, the Photographic Image of the Year awards, Britain’s Best and the Welsh Awards (see page 57). The next few months will be busy with preparations. Culminating in a big party at the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel in London, we’re looking forward to the winners being announced, celebrating our fabulous industry and all those who help make it so special. So, lots to look forward to and, in the meantime, there is the magazine. This issue’s cover feature explores the changes to the industry with a rise in self-employment (head to page 16). The costs of employing salon staff are such that many owners are opting to move more towards renting out space. The scale of the change is transforming our industry and, like most things in life, it has pros and cons. So, is this a challenge or an opportunity for the industry? Drop me an email at president@nhf.info In fact, if you have any thoughts on the magazine or ideas on subjects you would like to read about, get in touch.
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Manson Group, St Albans
COVER Alamy / Richard Gleed © The NHF/NBF 2019 All views expressed in salonfocus are not necessarily those of the the NHF/NBF. All efforts have been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information published in salonfocus. However, the publisher accepts no responsibility for any inaccuracies or errors and omissions in the information produced in this publication. No information contained in this publication may be used or reproduced without the prior permission of the NHF/NBF. Recycle your magazine’s plastic wrap. Check your local LDPE facilities to find out how.
SALONFOCUS SA LO N FO C US | AUTUMN 2019
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TH E CU T E N VIR O N M E N T
THECUT
The 13 things you need to know this issue...
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SALONFOCUS SALONFOCUS | | AUTUMN SPRING 2019 2019
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ENV IRONMEN T T HE CU T
PRE PREPARE FOR PLASTICS AST BAN WHAT IS IT? A ban on plasticstemmed cotton bud buds, plastic straws and plastic stir stirrers will come into force in En England.
was confirmed in May by then environment secretary Michael Gove.
WHY? It is a movee to reduce the damage to the env environment caused by single-use gle-u plastics.
ANY EXCEPTIONS? Yes
e resu It is the result of an open consultation, launched in October nsultati year, which sought views last ye on proposals to protect the o environment from this urgent problem of plastic pollution.
5 BILLION 300 MILLION 2 BILLION
WHERE CAN YOU READ MORE? The full results can be found at bit.ly/DEFRA-plastics-ban
Big brands go little on waste
plastic stirrers and close to
The UK uses 13 billion plastic bottles every year, but only 7.5 billion are recycled – the rest are sent to landfill, littered or incinerated. While we recycle most of our kitchen waste, only around half of our bathroom waste makes it into the recycling bin. Some of the big brands are being proactive in tackling this. We take a look at the figures for two of them.
cotton buds with plastic stems.
tonnes
The amount of plastic the UK throws away is set to increase by over
Aveda (owned by Estée
IMAGE: ALAMY
by 2030.
– plastic-stemmed cotton buds will still be used in medical practice, scientific research and forensic purposes to support criminal investigations.
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plastic straws are thrown away each year in England, along with more than
1 MILLION
WHO CONFIRMED IT? The ban
EN? April 2020. WHEN WILL IT HAPPEN?
HE BA HOW DID THE BAN COME ABOUT?
Nearly
It revealed overwhelming public support for the move.
Lauder Companies) 85% of its bottles and jars are made entirely from post-consumer
recycled materials
100% of products are made using solar and wind power None of Aveda’s haircare line contains sulphates, parabens, mineral oil, paraffin or formaldehyde 100% vegan haircare products from July 2019.
Biolage (owned by L’Oréal) A minimum of 85% of its packaging is postconsumer recycled 100% renewable energy factories with zero waste sent to landfill It uses dry factories where industrial water is purified and reused.
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TH E CU T BO O K IN G S
3
When do clients book online? And what do they expect?
How clients book when given the chance
18% book before you've even opened
28% book after you close
7.5% 5% 2.5% 0% 12am 1am 2am 3am 4am 5am 6am 7am 8am 9am 10am 11am 12pm 1pm 2pm 3pm 4pm 5pm 6pm 7pm 8pm 9pm 10pm 11pm
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% of bookings
10%
Time of day
DID YOU KNOW?
■ Bookings ■ Closed times
4 65,550
£28.4BN The beauty industry’s contribution to the UK economy last year, according to new figures compiled for the British Beauty Council.
The number of people who achieved beautyrelated vocational qualifications in 2018 – 24% were in hairdressing, 23% in multidisciplinary beauty courses and 1305 people studied for beauty-related degrees, mainly in make-uprelated specialties.
32% expect an online booking option
46% want to see reviews and testimonials from real clients
36% want before and after shots of previous work/ styles/looks
IMAGE: SHUTTERSTOCK
24-HOUR BOOKING TREND
Phorest analysed the hourly appointment booking trends of over 5000 salons and spas and found… 46% of bookings happen when salons and spas are closed – 28% in the evening after salons close, and 18% before they open in the morning. Then they surveyed 1000 customers of hair, beauty and nail salons, barbershops and spas. They asked – what features or information are important on a salon, spa or barber’s website? And this was the response (see right)... bit.ly/booking-trends
370,200 The number of people employed in the beauty industry in 2018. This added up to 1.1% of all employment in the UK, larger than the numbers employed in either the legal industry or the social work sector.
SALONFOCUS | AUTUMN 2019
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Seek natural growth, harvest calm. Zen Series.
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Save The Date 06.01.2020 Phorest Salon Owners Summit Dublin, Ireland
CREATE A 2020 VISION FOR YOUR SALON OWN YOUR BRAND
Europe’s most prestigious hair & beauty education event. Come for a full day of education from the greatest minds in business, marketing and management for salons and a weekend of networking that brings owners and managers from across the world together.
Salon Colab™, Canvas Salon & Skin Bar founder Stefanie Fox Jackson How to nail #teambuilding 101
Build Your Salon Coach & Founder of Bravo Hairdressing Phil Jackson Knowing Your Worth (and charging for it)
Salon owner and educator Jamie Dana How to work the Instagram effect
Co-Creator of Joebloe & Josiebloe, & Director of lil off the top Kristian Tognini How The Russian Brothers made it
PLUS more speakers to be announced soon!
For tickets, please visit www.salonownersummit.com #Letsgrow The Salon Owners Summit is open to Phorest clients only. For more information, please contact our team salonsummit@phorest.com
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WHAT’S RISING? T HE CU T
CHILDCARE
Government nt takes a look at sick pay IMAGES: SHUTTERSTOCK
What has been launched? A consultation to consider lowering the threshold at which employees are eligible for Statutory Sick Pay (SSP) and how long SSP should last. What is SSP now? SSP is £94.25 a week for a maximum of 28 weeks during a three-year period after an employee has been off work sick for four or more days in a row, including non-working days.
particularly part-time workers, earn less than that. What else will the consultation look at? Ways of encouraging those on long-term sick leave back to work. What might small businesses be eligible for if they support employees back to work? A sick pay rebate.
COSTS HIT NEW HEIGHTS Parents now pay an average of
£127 a week (£6600 a year) for a part-time nursery place. In inner London, costs rise to
£175
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a week or £9100 a year. Childcare costs have risen by
3% in the last year.
Who is currently eligible for SSP? Those earning an average of at least £118 per week. Two million people,
What is the NHF/NBF going to do? They will be responding to this consultation.
But help is available… Those who receive Universal Credit may be able to claim back up to
Wage rises set for 2020 The new National Living Wage (NLW) for those aged 25 and over is expected to increase to £8.67 per hour in April 2020. That’s a rise of more than 5%. And further rises are expected. The government is considering raising the figure to £9.61 per hour beyond 2020 in a move to end low wages, although the
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timescales for this are not clear. A rate of £9.61 would push the UK’s rates to the highest in the world. The Labour party have pledged to raise their NLW, called ‘Real Living Wage’, to £10 per hour for all, including those under 18. The government is rumoured to be looking at reducing the age at which NLW is applicable from 25 to 23 or even 21.
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85% of childcare costs… …and the government’s Tax-Free Childcare scheme is worth up to
£2000 a year to eligible parents.
SALONFOCUS | AUTUMN 2019
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TH E CU T AWA R D W IN
BUSI BUSINESS
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Be Beauty boosts boost for the industry fo stry
8 WWE WON! 12
S Salonfocus was named ‘Magazine of the Year’ at the Trade Association Forum Best Practice Awards 2019 announced on 9 July at County Hall in Westminster, London, on the
The global beauty industry is v valued at an estimated $53 $532bn. But there are four tre trends, according to retail an analytics firm Edited, that wi will advance the beauty ma market even further. But wh what are they?
strength of only one of the new and improved issues (Spring 2019). As you can tell from the faces of the NHF/NBF president, vice president, the NHF/NBF marketing team and the editorial and design colleagues from Redactive Publishing Ltd, we were pleased as punch!
1 2 3 4
R Retailers and brands, such as H&M, are adding beauty lines to their a existing offerings. e
Retailers are targeting their prices to the needs of millennial and Generation Z shoppers when it comes come to beauty.
Beauty brands are increasing their transparency by listing sources and origins of materials, and accurate manufacturing costs. manu
May bank holiday change in 2020
9 IMAGES: SHUTTERSTOCK
Friday 8 May 2020 is the new date for next year’s Early May Bank Holiday. Instead of it falling on Monday 4 May, the new date will coincide with the 75th anniversary of VE Day. So, check your software is updated, or your appointment books are correct – and get them changed if necessary.
Brands are embracing the clean beauty movement – sustainability is king.
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BUS I N ESS T HE CU T
The finalists of the NHF/NBF’s Business Awards 2019 have been announced. Turn to page 57 for more and visit nhf.info/ nhf-business-awards
HAIRDRESSING
SALON TRIP = CONFIDENCE BOOSTER Nearly a quarter of UK women have visited their hairdresser to boost their body confidence in the past month, research by Hearst UK, the print and online magazine publisher, has found. Over 2500 women, aged 18 to 65, took part in surveys, kept diaries and attended focus groups to find out how they think and feel about their bodies on a day-to-day basis.
The total value of the male prestige grooming market has increased by £2.2m in the 12 months to the end of June 2019, compared to the 12 months before June 2018.
When asked how they have boosted their confidence over the previous month, a trip to the hairdressers came third after exercising and eating healthily (see figures below). A visit to the hair salon is preferable to shopping for clothes for some it seems – in fact 21% agree that they avoid clothes shopping because it can adversely affect their body confidence.
38%
37%
exercised
ate healthily
‘Dusting’ or ‘micro trim’ requests from clients, which sees stylists only remove split and dry ends, are replacing the usual ‘trim’.
22%
WHAT’S HOT, WHAT’S NOT13
had their hair done
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Sharp and short
More than one in 10 (13%) UK employees are unhappy at work, accounting for more than 4.3 million people nationwide.
New law on business rates: top six facts.
The next property revaluation in England will now take place in 2021 rather than 2022.
Business rates are based on an estimate of a property’s rental value on the open market at a set date. It has already been confirmed that revaluations in Wales will take place in 2021, in line with England.
5 6
Similar legislation is likely to be introduced in Scotland, although currently the next revaluation is expected to take place in 2022. This is good news for businesses where property prices are going down as it will lead to lower rates. As Hilary Hall, NHF/NBF chief executive, highlights: ‘Earlier and more frequent revaluations give salons a better chance of business rates more accurately reflecting their current value on the rental market.’
IMAGES: SHUTTERSTOCK / ISTOCK
1 2 3 4
New legislation has been introduced to make sure that property revaluations in England are done every three years, rather than every five.
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Multi-step facial skincare routines are a thing of the past for many women as over a quarter (28%) over the last year have reduced the number of products they use.
The launch of a new rule – ‘Strong Customer Authentication’ – to increase the security of online payments has been delayed by 18 months. Go to nhf.info/ online-payments for more.
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TH E BU SI N E S S T H E F U T U R E
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RISE OF THE RENTERS SALONFOCUS SALO N FO C US | AUTUMN 2019
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THE F UTURE THE BU SI NESS
As the desire for freedom and flexibility rise sharply in the hair and beauty sectors, will we see an end to employed staff ? Helen Bird finds out what the future of the industry could look like.
T IMAGES: ALAMY / GETTY / RICHARD GLEED
he hair and beauty industry makes a huge contribution to the UK economy – to the tune of over £7bn per year – showing just how much consumer demand continues to thrive. But could the sector be undergoing a transformation that could, ironically, threaten future growth? Self-employment is on the rise: the latest NHF/NBF figures show 58% of people working in hairdressing and barbering, and 53% of those working in beauty, are now self-employed.
Hilary Hall – the model is also increasingly popular in hairdressing and beauty. Karoliina Saunders, owner of a hair salon in Swindon, estimates 85% to 90% of local salons are occupied by chair renters. And beauty business expert Liz McKeon says the industry lends itself to this particular model: ‘It’s a real inbetween layer for somebody who doesn’t want to take that jump of the rent and the rates, but just wants to focus on doing the creative work.’
All Al A ll about abou ab abou out protection prrottec p cti t on n But this rental model isn’t always straightforward: salon owners cannot impose salon policies on the self-
employed, yet there are clear dos and don’ts around having self-employed people working in the salon. Freelancers can end up feeling they’re being treated like employees but with none of the benefits. How can both salon owners and workers protect themselves when the traditional employee/employer relationship is removed? ‘The best legal protection for both parties is to have a proper chair or room-renting contract – not something that’s downloaded off the internet,’ says Hilary. Another solution could lie in the salon suite model, already popular in the US, whereby professionals rent an entire space – not just a chair or a room
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WE CAMPAIGN HARD FOR A LEVEL PLAYING FIELD WHEN IT COMES TO COMPETITION
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NHF/NBF NH NHF H /NB NB BF C CHIEF HIE HIEF IEF EXE XEC X CUT UT TIVE IV IVE VE HI VE H ILAR AR RY H ALL ALL AL EXECUTIVE HILARY HALL
Desire De esi s re e ffor orr fle exibility xiib xibi biilliity Hair and beauty professionals want to be more flexible in their work and, ultimately, make more money. There are three different self-employment business models, including chair and room rental. Extremely commonplace in barbering – ‘If you walk into any barbershop the chances are your barber will be selfemployed,’ says NHF/NBF chief executive
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TH E BU SI N E S S T H E F U T U R E
ete independence. – giving them complete Roz Colthart founded d Salon Studios in Edinburgh to afford budding stylists, barbers and therapists ts just that. She says: ‘Self-employed professionals tell me they feel more in control as they have their own clientt base and this offers them a sense of security.’ In a similar vein, cooperatives ooperatives are starting to pop up – salons alons owned and controlled by a group p of professionals. But is it even possible ble to have a ready-made client base se when setting up alone? ‘Without this, his, it’s pretty hard to get started,’ says Hilary. ilary. ‘As with any new business, it takess longer than you think to get it up and running. Most salons will have anti-poaching ng clauses in their employment contracts ts to make sure staff don’t take the salon’s clients with them when they leave.’
An advantage?
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d is also becoming But it seems the trend preferable to some employers. mployers. ‘There is a
distinct financial advantage to having self-employed people working in the salon, although you lose control over salon standards,’ says Hilary. ‘Our main concern is that the higher fixed costs of employing staff make it harder to compete with salons without employees. We campaign hard for a level playing field when it comes to competition – for example on VAT and National Insurance contributions.’ Farah Khan is one employer who recognises the benefits. With three self-employed staff members, the salon coordinator at Benedict Hair & Beauty in Luton is on the lookout for more: ‘It’s a safer option for us to recruit somebody self-employed. Obviously, we would help them build their clientele, but ultimately they hold a lot more responsibility.’ Farah says the salon is encouraging its employed staff to set themselves up as self-employed. ‘They’re all hungry to make money, but the business can only give so much. The best alternative for them is to go self-employed.’
CHAIR RENTING IS A REAL INBETWEEN LAYER FOR SOMEBODY WHO DOESN’T WANT TO TAKE THAT JUMP OF THE RENT AND THE RATES, BUT JUST WANTS TO FOCUS ON DOING THE CREATIVE WORK LIZ LI Z MC M MCKEON KEO KEON ON
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TOP TIPS
HOW TO HANG ON TO YOUR EMPLOYEES ES Karoliina Saunders’ top op three mployees must-haves to keep employees happy are: A good pay structure e Education Opportunities. ng an She says: ‘I’m not saying an’t achieve ambitious individual can’t this by themselves, butt it’s a lot f-employed, harder work being self-employed, sful, than and especially successful, you may think.’
SALONFOCUS SA LO N FO C U S | AUTUMN 2019
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THE F UTURE THE BU SI NESS
Chair and room rental can also add to the dynamism of a salon, thanks to a range of personalities and skills, and to the renter being motivated to provide a good service at all times to maximise earning potential. But Farah points out the need for some separation between the self-employed and employees. ‘For instance, we wouldn’t promote their services on our social media, and they’ve got to pay for their own training courses,’ she says.
The T Th he next ne n extt generation? gen ener ner era attio ion n? ? But what does the future hold for the industry if all hair and beauty professionals were to set up on their own? Karoliina is apprehensive. She sees the rise of the chair-renting model as ‘fine if the individuals have the passion to develop their skillset. If they don’t, we will end up with a lot of unskilled hairdressers. 'I have a slight concern about the number of self-employed salons popping
10 Barbershops, Barb Ba rber rb ber ersh shop sh ops, ss,, b beauty ea e auty uty ut salons and nail bars are ssa alo lons ns a n n nd a l ba ai b ars rss a r iin re n the most popular th he top top to p 10 1 m ostt p os po op pu ular la ar independent start-ups iin ndepe dep de pe end n e en nt st s arrtt--up a ps
25% Hairdressing Ha aiirrdres dres dr e s siin ng ga and n b nd barbering ab ar be eri ring g apprenticeships England apprren appr ap enti nttiice cesh sh hip ps in in En E glan gl nd were 25% were we e down do d own wn 2 5% % in in 2018 2018 20 18 8
up and how we will bring on the new generation alongside that. In time it may start going back the other way.’ Despite the growing appeal of self-employment in the industry, Hilary maintains it’s not for everyone. ‘The flipside of this is that there are
NHF/NBF RESOURCES For more on the NHF/NBF’s latest hair and beauty industry statistics, go to nhf.info/industry-statistics For the NHF/NBF’s chair and room renting guides, for both renters and salon owners, go to nhf.info/agreements To sign up for a free guide to starting up a hair, barbering or beauty salon, visit nhf.info/hair-startup-guide or nhf.info/beauty-startup-guide
always going to be people who value a steady wage, knowing that if you’re off sick or on holiday you’ll get paid,’ she says. ‘It’s two very different business models and I think we’re going to see a separation of the ways as to which route people prefer.’
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OTHER ISSUES TO CONSIDER You may have deal with the differences in the way you treat employees and chair/space/room renters. You will no longer have control over branding and marketing as renters will be doing their own marketing. Renters cannot be expected to help train your new employees/apprentices. You cannot require renters to maintain your standards by taking part in any training you provide. The reputation of your business may be damaged if clients are not satisfied with the service from a renter. Clients will not understand the difference between your employees and renters. With employees it can be easier to build a loyal team that works together to make your business a success. Renters will not have the same commitment to your business.
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Smarter support for brighter futures
Proud sponsors of the NHF/NBF Hair & Beauty Business Awards Best Apprentice category
EPA SERVICES FAIR | CONSISTENT | RELIABLE Offering the Hair Professional and Beauty Professional Apprenticeship Standards Supporting you from start to ďŹ nish with bespoke resources For more information on VTCT End-point Assessments, visit www.vtct.org.uk/epao-services
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W I N T E R T I P S T HE BU SI NESS
A
s our winter wardrobe makes its comeback and the evenings draw in, the party season is almost upon us. This means a step up in activity in your salon. Illnesses and extreme weather can cause a rise in staff absences, but the season doesn’t have to be stressful.
Be prepared Planning early is vital to make sure you’re not caught on the hop. Analysing last year’s sales data and booking trends can help you make decisions on extended opening hours, seasonal staff and additional stock. Derry Vilcans-Moody, owner of Russell James Hair Salon & Barbers in Buckinghamshire, says turnover doubles in the four weeks before Christmas, so it’s vital to get things right. ‘Our December planning starts in January, but we use our September and October team meetings for finalising plans, setting opening hours and agreeing shift patterns. At Christmas, my sister comes in at peak times to help with answering the phone and taking bookings.’
IMAGES: ALAMY
Managing absences Unexpected absences can be difficult to cope with, especially in a small team. ‘It’s about planning ahead as best you can,’ says Laura Chalkley, head of team for the NHF/NBF legal helpline. ‘Think in advance of who you could call on to help cover on these occasions, or call the client and try to rearrange the appointment, perhaps offering a discounted service.’ If staff know their absence is being properly monitored,
ALWAYS Keep a cool head this winter. Follow our tips for staying on top as party season kicks off.
PREPARED 21
MEMBERS’ TOOLKIT Check out these useful resources, downloadable and free to Members: The NHF/NBF Absence management guide can be found at nhf.info/ absence-management-guide and the NHF/NBF Absence record form is at nhf.info/absence-record You can download the NHF/NBF employment contract templates and staff handbook at nhf.info/contracts Call the NHF/NBF legal helpline on 01234 831965 for advice on overcoming employment challenges.
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TH E BU SI N E S S W I N T E R T I P S
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they’re less likely to call in sick with a hangover. So carry out return-to-work interviews, fill out sickness logs and keep track of whether there are repeat instances of short-term sick leave. Laura says: ‘If you notice unusually high absence levels, you should investigate. That may result in a first formal caution for absence.’ Of course, it’s not just sickness that can cause unexpected absences. If employees can’t get into work due to extreme weather, they aren’t automatically entitled to pay. Laura recommends having a bad weather policy that sets out employees’ rights. Staff with children are entitled to take time off to deal with an emergency – for example, when schools shut because of snow. But it’s at the salon’s discretion
ORGANISING HOLIDAY Everyone wants time off at Christmas, but that’s just not always practical. So what’s the best way to keep staff and clients happy? Derry Vilcans-Moody has a ‘no time off’ policy in the run-up to Christmas. He says: ‘The team members get it. It’s a lucrative time for them as well, as they can work overtime.’
Laura Chalkley says: ‘A lot of salons say “no holidays to be taken in December” [this is also an option in the NHF/ NBF employment contracts]. They may also ask staff to reserve holiday to cover a closure period.’ She advises a clear policy or contractual wording in place and communicating it to staff at the start of their employment. If you do let staff book holiday in
December, planning is essential. Laura says: ‘Some employers have a “first come, first served” approach, while others pick names out of a hat.’ If you’re extending your hours, you may want staff to work shifts. Laura says: ‘If you’re making any changes to working hours, you will need staff agreement. Autumn is a good time to think about your requirements.’
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whether that is paid or unpaid, according to Laura. ‘You should have a policy in place which specifies this,’ she says. Happy and healthy staff take less time off, so promoting staff wellbeing should be an essential part of your planning. Derry says he’s never had trouble with staff absences, and puts this down to a small, close-knit team. He says: ‘I do my best to look after my team and they do their best to look after me. If anyone’s sick, everyone’s very concerned and will help out and make sure clients are taken care of.’ Incentives are also offered for the performance of the whole team, which encourages everyone to pull together.
COMPLAINT RESOLUTION SUPPORT JULIE WACKER HAPPYMembers PEOPLEcan download a NHF/NBF business psychologist at wellbeing freeThe guide to dealing with specialists Robertson complaints, including howCooper total orexplains howrefunds to create good work. partial must be days givenat within People can look with 14 days of agreeing totowards a refund.Christmas The dread, buthow you reputable can often guess the type of guide details problems thatto might arise and they’re not businesses need do the right thing Talk Iftorelations your staff: how do andinsurmountable. stay within the law. they feel about their workload? What are break down after all reasonable their responsibilities outsidehave work? attempts to resolve a situation at what you cancan do to ease those been Look exhausted, members also thenrefer thinkcustomers about what findpressures, out how they tomight help cope better. an Hairpeople & Beauty Mediation, Feeling you have a purpose is important. alternative dispute resolution service Make sure everybody is clear about what they’re operated by the NHF/NBF, including contributing and acknowledge how to write ‘deadlock’ letters. Seetheir efforts. Good relationships with colleagues help, so nhf.info/client-complaints create opportunities to celebrate successes, talk through problems and connect with one another.
Challenging behaviours Winter festivities should be jolly occasions, but it’s no joke if staff turn up drunk or hungover. Having a clear and fair drugs and alcohol policy – like the one outlined in the NHF/NBF staff handbooks – and communicating it to staff before the party season starts is vital. It will also protect your salon when dealing with staff who break the rules. Laura says: ‘Being drunk at work or turning up to work with a hangover are both conduct issues which may result in disciplinary action being taken.’ A gentle reminder to staff at a team meeting or in an email about expected behaviour is definitely worth doing, says Laura, ‘so they are clear about what would be a disciplinary issue’. Hopefully you won’t need to do so, but should you be considering a formal or disciplinary action route, always seek legal advice beforehand. So, swing into winter – and your winter wardrobe favourites – with ease this season by being prepared. And remember, as an NHF/ NBF Member you have access to a free legal helpline. Make the most of it.
LOST DAYS
131m working days were lost because of sickness in the UK in 2017
34m 28m
were lost due to minor illnesses
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were lost due to musculoskeletal problems, such as back pain
14m were lost due to stress, depression and anxiety On the flip side…
47% 88%
of workers didn’t take any sick days in 2017
of workers said they came in despite being ill
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TH E BU SI N E S S A DVIC E
THE 24
CLOCK
Three successful salon owners look back at their younger years and reflect on what they wish they’d known when they were starting out. ROBERT RIX, 71 THE MASTER BARBERS, SOUTHPORT
STACEY GADKE, 41 SALONISTA, CORBY
Having cut her first head of hair in a salon as a teenager, Stacey has owned a boutique hairdressers in Corby for six years. I first started working in a salon when I was 15 and spent many years as an employee. What you don’t see is everything that happens beyond the shop floor; looking after the accounts, advertising, ordering stock, managing staff. As a result,
STACEY’S TOP TIP I fully believe FOR SURVIVAL business studies should be a compulsory part of hairdresser training. If I could go back to my early 20s, I would have done a business course, as I had to learn it all when I opened my own salon. It’s not as simple as finding clients, you also need to know about insurance, tax and VAT. I would even suggest enlisting the help of a business adviser. It’s also important to have savings, as the work can peak and trough, but you still need to pay your tax bill when it arrives.
STAY EDUCATED ON UP-ANDCOMING TRENDS, WHILE REMAINING CONSISTENT WITH CLIENTS’ NEEDS.
Throughout his 58-year career, barber Robert has been faced with men’s short hair, long hair and even the Kevin Keegan perm. Although I didn’t set out to be a barber, I took to it like a duck to water when I left school. By 18, I switched to ladies’ hairdressing and by 20 I was a men’s barber, ladies’ hairdresser and a wig maker based in London’s Mayfair and Kensington. You can’t have too much knowledge, especially in these days of diminishing training. Fashions are cyclical, so you need to make sure you can cope with anything. Anyone can fade, but ask a young barber if they can do a Kevin Keegan perm and they would probably be beaten. I’m not one for regrets, but I do think I should have stayed in London. Who knows where my career would have taken me? I would also have told
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OUR SALON OWNERS' TIPS
EVOLVING YOUR SMALL BUSINESS
1 2 3 4 5 6
Stay focused on the customer and ask for feedback. What you think they want might not be what they want at all. Have a clear vision on where you want your business to go. Making it up as you go along will only spell disaster. Find a niche, stick with it and create a referral system to gain new clients. Hold one-to-one meetings with each of your team every month.
Share and communicate all new products, promotions and changes in the business on a regular basis. PAP – preparation and planning. If you don’t do PAP, you’ll get PPP (pi** poor performance) and never evolve.
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MIKAELA MARTIN, 51 SPIRIT HAIR COMPANY, HIGH WYCOMBE, WALLINGFORD AND FARNHAM COMMON
ROBERT’S TOP TIPS FOR SURVIVAL
IMAGE: ALAMY
CREATE GOOD PR IN TRADE MAGAZINES AND LOCAL PAPERS, AND ELEVATE YOUR STATUS THROUGH COMPETITIONS. myself how important it is to work from your own capital and to stick with what you know. At one stage, I opened a combined salon and boutique dress shop. It was no great success, as I knew far more about hair than I did about mini-skirts.
have focused on learning and becoming a fabulous hairdresser! I wish I had placed more importance on working alongside great people I could learn outstanding skills from and be prepared to mentor me. I would take every opportunity to improve my abilities and focus on working smarter. I could have taken more calculated risks and been more confident, without being cocky too.
In the early days, Mikaela was juggling hairdressing with cleaning jobs and pulling pints. It was when she focused on a hairdressing career that she found success. When I started out, I had no clear picture of what I wanted to achieve in life or what I wanted to be. I also had no support from my parents, which meant that I became something of a loose cannon. What MIKAELA’S TOP TIPS FOR SURVIVAL I did have was a strong work ethic. In hindsight I spread myself too thin by working three jobs to pay my bills. I should
DON’T BE A JOBSWORTH. DON’T CLOCK-WATCH. BE PASSIONATE AND TENACIOUS. LOVE WHAT YOU DO, AND YOU'LL NEVER WORK AGAIN.
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verywhere you look, complaints are on the rise. Whether they’re against retailers, railway companies or energy providers, Britons, it seems, are becoming ever more demanding. A recent poll by hair and beauty salon business insurance provider smei business insurance found that 49% of customers would complain if they were unsatisfied with the result of their hair service. Claims management companies have long been accused of trying to create a compensation culture in Britain, but there is another reason why complaining is altogether easier: the internet. Whereas previously disgruntled customers might have suffered in silence, today it’s
all too easy to fire off an angry tweet or an unimpressed picture online.
Online complaints
IS THE CUSTOMER ALWAYS RIGHT? When someone makes a complaint against your salon online, good oldfashioned customer service rules still apply. Peter Crush explains why.
At Peckham-based salon DKUK, founder Daniel Kelly says he recently re-cut a customer’s hair because he felt that his stylist’s initial consultation could have been better. Although it wasn’t an online complaint, he now says being vigilant to online channels is just another task he has to be involved with: ‘It’s now part of my secretary’s job to do a daily scan of the web,’ he says. ‘Where the odd [reviewer] hasn’t been totally happy, she always responds, just to make clarifications. If she thinks it requires me handling it, I will respond directly.’ When a complaint goes online, the worst thing is to let it turn into a public ‘spat’. Salon software provider and booking platform Treatwell has a number of guidelines and policies in place to prevent abusive, and even fake, reviews. The site’s UK and Ireland director Madeleine Raynel says: ‘Reviews are removed if there’s any foul language, block letters, threatening or harassing of any sorts, or defamation. We have a zero tolerance policy on sexism and racism, as well as any sort of advertising. Usually, we’d ask the customer to edit their review first, but if they refuse, the review would be deleted immediately.’ Treatwell also encourages salon owners to respond politely to negative reviewers. ‘We advise our partners to keep responses short and
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sweet. Start by acknowledging the feedback and explain that you’d love to find a solution to work this out, and try and take the conversation offline by asking the customer to get in touch directly,’ Madeleine tells salonfocus. Acting quickly is paramount, particularly when complaints are genuine. Whether a client calls the salon or posts an online review to explain that they’re not happy with a service they’ve received, it’s a good idea for the stylist or therapist they saw to call them back – or offer to call them – as soon as possible to discuss how the issue might be resolved.
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Remain professional But whichever way a complaint is handled, when customers feel ignored, or somehow spurned, an initial grievance can turn into a campaign of hate, and another scourge of the internet raises its ugly head – trolling. The sister-in-law
TOP TIPS
FOR DEALING WITH ONLINE COMPLAINTS
1
Check your feeds daily and have a chain of command for dealing with certain levels of criticism. For really serious sounding posts, the complainant often wants to hear from the boss at the top.
2
Read how a complaint is delivered. What are their motivations, what language is being used? Are they upset or frustrated? Working out which will influence your choice of response.
3
Is it an authentic complaint? If it’s a regular loyal client, it’s probably genuine and you’ll want to do everything you can to keep your client happy. But don’t be afraid of standing your ground if that isn’t the case and you sense the complaint is being made to ‘try it on’.
4
If the initial complaint isn’t clear, get the complainant to establish the facts – either online or by supplying your direct contact details. This might deter them from pursuing things any further, while you’ve maintained good ‘public face’.
5
Remember, what goes online tends to stay online, so it’s best not to get involved in a long-protracted slanging match for other reviewers to see.
of singer Michael Bublé was accused of doing this in 2017, with tweets denouncing a £385 bill her mum paid in a salon in Buenos Aires. Despite getting more than 3000 likes of support, in this case the owner didn’t cave in and asserted that the price of the (four) different hair bleaches, as well as highlights, was perfectly correct, standard, and therefore not worthy of complaint. Younger clients are more likely to leave a Twitter, Facebook or Instagram complaint, suggests Jo Causon, CEO at The Institute of Customer Service. ‘Social media users tend to be younger, and reflect the generation that requires more instant gratification and instant response,’ she says. ‘Our own research says up to 25% of people are so-called “silent sufferers”, but it is less so among the young. These people want more engagement with brands, especially if they feel aggrieved.’
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CUSTOMER SERVICE RULES: ACT FAST, BE PROFESSIONAL, AND RESPOND COURTEOUSLY
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COMPLAINT RESOLUTION SUPPORT NHF/NBF Members can download a free guide to dealing with complaints, including how total or partial refunds must be given within 14 days of agreeing to a refund. The guide details how reputable businesses need to do the right thing and stay within the law. If relations break down after all reasonable attempts to resolve a situation have been exhausted, Members can also find out how they refer customers to Hair & Beauty Mediation, an alternative dispute resolution service operated by the NHF/ NBF, including how to write ‘deadlock’ letters. See nhf.info/ clientcomplaints
But what happens if things turn nasty is still an evolving area. Legally, trolling is not yet a recognised term, although in October 2016, the Crown Prosecution Service introduced new laws that could see those who create ‘derogatory hashtags’ jailed, and it is currently looking at the issue more broadly. There is a law around protection against harassment and for libel and slander though. If a troll won’t go away, salon owners can block certain profiles. Which is why good old-fashioned customer service rules still apply – namely, to act fast, be professional and respond courteously. With most complaints likely to centre around a service or treatment that wasn’t up to standard, the key thing to remember is that, as in life, nothing is ever perfect, and there will always be occasions where an online complaint is warranted. Just make sure you handle it with dignity. A happy customer is a repeat customer, even if they have some bumps along the way.
KNOW YOUR RIGHTS Although the customer isn’t always right, they do have rights under consumer law (Consumer Rights Act 2015). Services have to be provided with ‘care and skill’, meaning customers must explain why they think their service or treatment isn't up to par. This means online complaints need to be treated as seriously as offline ones. But a customer can only ask staff to ‘make good’ their mistake if it is agreed that a mistake has been made, and it’s only if this isn’t possible – for instance, it would take too long, or can’t be scheduled – that a discount can be requested.
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ACTING QUICKLY IS PARAMOUNT, PARTICULARLY WHEN COMPLAINTS ARE GENUINE
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TH E BU SI N E S S B O DY DYS M O R P H IC DIS O RDER
FEELING FLAWED 30
Many of us don’t like a part of our body, but for some this manifests itself as a condition known as BDD. Kathy Oxtoby explores this potentially severe mental disorder.
Y
ou’ve just finished styling your client’s hair. She looks great. But she’s not seeing what you’re seeing. The mirror shows her what she sees every day. She feels unattractive and worthless. Your customer has body dysmorphic disorder (BDD), and she probably doesn’t know it. The condition is rare – about one in 50 people have BDD, the NHS estimates. But because it is about appearance, at some point salon owners and staff are likely to come across someone with this disorder. So, what does it involve, how do you spot the signs, and how can you support these clients?
What is BDD? NHS UK explains that BDD is: A mental disorder in which a person can’t stop thinking about one or more perceived defects in their appearance — a flaw that, to others, is minor or not observable.
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They may also feel so ashamed and anxious that they avoid social situations. People of any age can have BDD, but it’s most common in teens and young adults. It affects both men and women. Having BDD does not mean an individual is vain or self-obsessed. It can be very upsetting and impact on their work and social life and relationships. Mark Salter, a consultant psychiatrist in East London, says people with BDD are ‘very vulnerable’. ‘They may stop going to work, or miss the school run. Gradually it can take over their whole life,’ he says. In extreme cases, ‘BDD can also lead to depression, self-harm and even thoughts of suicide’, says Professor Kevin Gournay, from King’s College, London, who has published research on the condition.
Spotting the signs ‘Everyone experiences BDD differently,’ says Stephen Buckley, head of information at mental health charity Mind. But some may carry out compulsive behaviours or routines. This includes ‘obsessively checking their
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BDD CAUSES AND TREATMENT
IMAGES: GETTY
Stephen Buckley, head of information at mental health charity Mind, says the cause of BDD is unknown, but research suggests that there are a number of different risk factors including: Abuse and bullying Low self-esteem Isolation Pre-existing mental health problems. The media, including social media, could be adding to pressures on people to look perfect, and, if they already have mental health issues, they might be at risk of developing BDD.
The Body Dysmorphic Disorder Foundation says there is little research on the treatment of BDD. The charity advises that the National Institute for Health and Care Excellence recommends two treatments: Cognitive behavioural therapy (CBT) is a type of talking therapy that aims to change the way people think and behave. Antidepressant medication, which may need to be taken daily for at least 12 weeks to see if it’s effective at reducing anxiety and preoccupation with perceived flaws.
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appearance in mirrors, avoiding mirrors altogether, exercising excessively or constantly comparing their appearance to others. Some might seek surgery or other medical treatment to try to change the areas that concern them,’ he says.
BDD and salon owners’ skills
32
Mark says salon owners and staff ‘are good at building relationships and finding out their stories’. ‘This could include keeping an eye out to spot and support people who might have BDD,’ he says. Beauty therapists carrying out aesthetic treatments, for example, may come across BDD sufferers frequently in their work. The NHF/NBF’s healthcare questionnaires and client consultation records give therapists the opportunity to ask clients about the reasons why they want a treatment and what they’re hoping to get out of it, as well as an assessment of their wellbeing.
Supporting clients Salon owners and their staff looking to support clients with BBD ‘shouldn’t put pressure on anyone to talk’, says Stephen. ‘But if someone does decide to open up, it’s important to listen without judgement. You may not understand their concerns but try to understand that the feelings are very real to them.’ He advises: ‘Remember, you’re not expected to give expert advice. Instead, try asking if there’s anything you can do to help make them feel more comfortable. It’s also a good idea to signpost them to professional support.’ ‘And never imply it’s all in the mind,’ adds Mark. ‘Build that relationship, gently explore, and suggest a referral. But don’t get too involved. Just try to empower, encourage and persuade.’
BDD INFORMATION AND RESOURCES The NHF/NBF have written a blog about spotting the signs of BDD and have included links to further information and resources. Read it at nhf.info/body-image Order the NHF/NBF health and safety questionnaires and client consultation forms at nhf.info/H&S-resources For support and advice on BDD, go to bddfoundation.org
KITTY’S STORY My BDD first showed with an obsession with styling my hair. I would wash my hair at least once a day, often more. In my school break times, I would run to my room – I was at boarding school – where I had a sink and would wet my hair, dry and re-style it obsessively. I would wear a long fringe to hide my face. Case study reproduced with thanks and permission from the BDD Foundation. See bddfoundation. org/community/personal-stories
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TH E BU SI N E S S S A LO N S AVIN G S
S
alons and barbershops opened at explosive rates across the high street in 2018. A glut of openings might seem like good news for the industry in what was a challenging year for UK retailers, but it also signals more competition for established salons, and is a reminder that salons should keep close tabs on their finances in an increasingly tough trading environment. But when you’re bogged down in the day-to-day running of a salon, it can be easy to lose sight of outgoings – let alone find the time to review them and work out where to
make cuts. The good news is though that every business – whether you’re a start-up or an established salon – has the potential to save money. From negotiating costs with suppliers to becoming more energy efficient, there are lots of practical steps you can take. A good starting point is to review your wages, rent, stock and utilities, as these are the four main costs for salons. They make up a sizeable chunk of your total expenditure, so it’s worth spending time thinking about how you can save money in these areas. But what do 10 experienced current and previous salon owners and NHF/NBF business coaches think?
It’s a no-brainer: every business wants to save money. But where do you begin? We speak to salon owners and coaches to get their top tips for cutting costs in salons. 34
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NHF/NBF president Ian Egerton
Anne Veck
Chris Amos
‘Identify which products are popular and which items don’t move quickly. When placing a stock order, buy on VAT free days, buy bulk for better discounts on popular items, separate stock into retail and professional use (as suppliers often give discounts on products for in salon use).’
‘Look at cutting energy and water costs. Biodegradable towels are more absorbent so reduce time spent blow drying, for example. Install LED lights – they are more expensive to start with, but you can expect a return on investment to reach 100% in year one. After that, savings increase each year. It sounds simple but fix dripping taps – just one can waste as much as 500 litres of water per week!’
‘Franchises have a 90%-plus success rate as they are built on proven, existing business systems, compared to the 86% failure rate for typical start-ups. It doesn’t matter who you are, you are going to need to have structures and systems in place that are sound, proven and tested and that means that you are going to need business education. That in the long run will save you time and money because you won’t make the mistakes that many start-ups make.’
IMAGES: GETTY
FIVE WAYS TO MAKE YOUR SALON THRIVE Write a business plan Monitor your finances Understand your target client Promote your business Build brand loyalty.
Richard Wallace ‘Waste is the biggest cost to salons. You need systems in place to control your professional stock, so you don’t overorder. Also, make sure that stylists don’t extend appointment times as this is wasted time in the day.’
Penny Etheridge ‘No-shows cost money. The most vulnerable salons are new businesses because clients don’t have loyalty. I would urge owners to take a card number as standard behaviour.’
THE HIGHS AND LOWS When the recession hit in 1991, salon owner Simon Harris found that clients were extending the time between visits, which affected profits. ‘Things got tight, so we introduced targetbased pay,’ says Simon. ‘This rewarded those who performed and penalised those who didn’t.’ Simon brought in performance
coaching to help everyone achieve their targets, as well as bringing staff together to learn about topics such as colour, how to upsell and building loyalty. ‘When the economy recovered, we went on to have our busiest year ever,’ explains Simon. This allowed him to add three more salons to his portfolio, bringing in a £3m turnover.
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LONG-TERM ACTION:
SAVING MONEY Become energy efficient. From installing LED lights to regular checks of your boiler, there is potential to reduce your energy bills.
36
Monitor and reward good performance. Every business should carry out staff appraisals. Tell staff where they are doing well and help them to make improvements.
NHF/NBF vice president Steven Scarr
David Drew
‘Get yourself a great salon software package and invest time in using it to its full potential. By sending text appointment reminders, you can reduce no-shows and rebooking prompts will help you to maintain repeat clients.’
‘To save money, you need to understand and measure your business financials. Start by looking at your past performance and where it is now. You need a cash-flow forecast, a profit-and-loss account analysis and a balance sheet to keep track of how your business is doing.’
Paul Curry
Simon Harris
‘Change your hair colour brand to one of the many new names which offer 100ml tubes – rather than 60ml – at a fraction of the cost of the big names. Always use weighing scales to measure out hair colour and peroxide using the exact ratio recommended by the manufacturer.’
‘Make sure your wage bill is no more than 50% of your salon’s net sales, without VAT. This can be achieved by a carefully thought-out price strategy and the introduction of target-based pay.’
Susan Routledge Retain existing clients. It costs more to find new customers than it does to keep existing clients, so start building relationships.
NHF/NBF RESOURCES Want tips for cutting your energy bills? Go to nhf.info/energyefficiency for more. From VAT to accounting and record-keeping, have a read of our financial guide to running a business at nhf.info/ finance-guide Start taking control of your cash flow now with nhf.info/cash-flow
‘When you’re busy trying to bring more money into the salon, it’s easy to take your eye off the money going out of your bank account. Dedicate a day a year to ringing round every supplier you work with to ask for better deals. It’s a key business process for every salon owner.’
GET FURTHER ADVICE To find out more about how to save money in your salon, book a call with one of the NHF/NBF coaches. Visit nhf.info/meet-the-coaches
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Call now new 2019 brochure New models new finishes Expert salon design
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TH E BU SI N E S S C H IL DR E N
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MAKING THE CUT
Having children in your salon doesn’t have to mean your work’s cut out for you. In fact, tailoring some of your services to them could generate a whole new revenue stream. Georgina Fuller explains how.
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L
ove them or quietly dislike them, children are increasingly becoming part of the hair and beauty world, thanks in part to reality TV stars like the Kardashians throwing pamper parties for their kids. But how do you keep such young customers happy and your salon tantrum free? According to children’s hair expert, educator and consultant Marion Burns, getting the right staff is essential, because not everyone has what it takes to be a children’s hairdresser. The owner of Raspberry kids’ and teens’ hair salon in Leamington Spa, Warwickshire, explains: ‘The key requirements are patience and confidence, as well as being a proficient SHARON DOBSON hairdresser or beauty therapist.’ Some children can be nervous or apprehensive about having their hair cut. ‘During the years I have experienced every scenario – screaming children and those who don’t want to sit in the cars [in our salon] or a chair,’ Marion says. ‘I have, as a result, had to develop another set of skills in terms of language, distraction and cutting techniques, which allow a cut to be done in minimum time with minimum stress.’ TOP TIPS Salon owners need to recognise that the key customer is still the parent, and know how to communicate, comfort FOR WORKING and reassure them if they are feeling anxious, too. WITH KIDS If you’re worried about causing offence to your customers – parents or otherwise – try following some of these tips: Be upfront about your policies – that way everyone is clear about the rules. If you’re happy to have children present, create an environment that’s kid friendly. Remember, treats and rewards are your best friend when it comes to cutting little ones’ hair! Make sure your staff and clients are clear on which treatments and services should not be carried out on children. Download the NHF/NBF’s Qualifications and age restrictions fact sheet for beauty treatments at nhf.info/qualifications
THE PRESENCE OF ADULTS – PARTICULARLY IF THEY ARE EYE-ROLLING OR TUTTING – WILL NOT MAKE A NERVOUS CHILD OR THEIR PARENTS FEEL RELAXED
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Be mindful Sharon Dobson, director of Little BigHeads in Manchester, which offers children’s haircuts and shoes, advises salon owners to be mindful of the impact on other customers if they introduce children to their salon. ‘Adults often go to a salon to relax and for “me time”, so having children there can change this dynamic considerably,’ she says. ‘Similarly, the presence of adults – particularly if they are eye-rolling or tutting – will not make a nervous child or their parents feel relaxed, which will add to the stress of the visit for the child.’ Cutting children’s hair can also be considerably more tricky than cutting an adult’s hair. ‘Children move their heads and wriggle a lot, even when they’re happy to have it done,’ says Sharon. ‘And some scream and shout and lash out if they don’t like it!’ But using child-friendly distractions is not all it takes, Sharon explains: ‘While gimmicks are a cute touch, you have got to have the skills to give a great haircut, too.’
1 2 3 4
Get your costs right IMAGES: ISTOCK
5
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All the team at Little Bigheads are required to have at least five years’ experience, and the prices reflect this. ‘Some salons cut children’s hair “as a favour” to their adult customers, charging prices as low as £5,’ Sharon
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TH E BU SI N E S S C H IL DR E N
I HAVE HAD TO DEVELOP ANOTHER SET OF SKILLS IN TERMS OF LANGUAGE, DISTRACTION AND CUTTING TECHNIQUES, WHICH ALLOW A CUT TO BE DONE IN MINIMUM TIME WITH MINIMUM STRESS HELENA LINSKY
PAMPER PARTIES 40
The children’s hair and beauty business is booming, with pamper parties and mini manicures and pedicures becoming increasingly de rigueur for young fashionistas. Helena Linsky, co-director at Q61 Nail and Beauty Studio Group, says that many salons now offer considerably more than a simple haircut or nail service for children, after increasingly lavish parties by doting celebrity parents became popular. Kim Kardashian, for example, hired out the whole of Disneyland for her daughter North West’s third birthday. ‘Thanks to a growth in the children’s entertainment industry, and the fact that celebrities are constantly striving to give their children parties that are more imaginative, there’s been a huge rise in the number of requests we receive to throw children’s pamper parties,’ says Helena. At their Harrogate-based nail and beauty studio, Helena says they now offer a range of appointments for parents and children. They have also recently added a number of family-friendly features, including a private feeding room, baby changing area and a ‘pram park’. ‘Mothers often bring their young daughters along for mother-daughter pedicures or manicures,’ says Helena. ‘It’s a lovely way for a parent and child to spend quality time together.’
MARION BURNS
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explains. ‘But a good child’s haircut can take just as long as an adult haircut, so your pricing needs to reflect the skill level and experience going into that cut.’ The prices at Little Bigheads start at £5 for a fringe trim, increasing to £12 for a haircut for children under two, £17 for those aged three and over, and £20 for a wash, cut and finish. There are also various health and safety considerations to factor in when it comes to having children in a salon, including risk assessments, chemical use, behaviour and timings. ‘As we are a children-only salon, we only do cutting – no colour or perm services,’ says Sharon. ‘Therefore we don’t have any chemicals in our shop. A salon opening up to adults and children would need to give this serious consideration.’
Put a policy in place Having a policy also helps to outline things, especially if it specifies that children are only welcome at certain times. It can explain the role of the parent when it comes to their safety too. Ensuring that your liability insurance policy includes any injuries occurring to children is also essential.
You can do it too But with planning, policies, care and consideration, there should be no reason why you can’t accommodate this growing customer group. The days of parents brandishing kitchen scissors are long gone for many of today’s children.
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SPONSORED FEATURE
|
S P O N S O R E D F E AT U R E
Need a little helper over the festive period? Then look no further... Salon by Premier Software® is the answer
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hristmas may seem like a distant twinkle, but it’ll be here before you know it. That means now’s the time to start planning before it’s too late. However, with an increasing number of bookings and an ever-buzzing salon, it can be difficult to find time to sprinkle the festive spirit. What you need is a dedicated system to manage the extra workload in the seasonal run-up. Salon by Premier Software® makes for the perfect partner. Designed to work with you to streamline both your client’s journey and your staff’s, Salon has all the tools to be a helping hand at Christmas – smooth scheduling, online booking, empowered retail, and even automated marketing.
clearly seen, and you have the flexibility to book or move appointments wherever you need, maximising your staff’s time. Once clients are booked in, it’s time to make sure they still show – even when they’re recovering from some festive fun the night before. That’s where appointment reminders help. Salon can send SMS messages to clients letting them know their appointment is soon. This method is effective in reducing no-shows, especially if sent on the morning of their visit. Having said this, sometimes it’s staff who don’t show. With unexpected illness abundant in the colder climes, you may be left without team members. Whether it’s illness or booking annual leave, Salon can flexibly manage your rotas to fill in the gaps. With a system that helps make up the shortfall, you’re left stress-free and ready to spread the Christmas joy.
Filling in the gaps Highlighting white space is an essential tool to tackle Christmas’s increased client bookings. A system that does this, while ensuring appointments are evenly spaced to make sure staff don’t get snowed under, is vital. That’s where Salon comes in. White space can be
The gift that keeps on giving With an avalanche of clients, this time of year is also ideal for Christmas promotions and gift cards. Perfect as last-minute presents, gift cards can be set up within Salon and
redeemed on stock or services. Pair this with seasonal pricing structures, which can be set up to take either a percentage or set amount off your services and retail for the perfect promotion. Once clients are party ready, you may not see them again until the new year. Making use of the busier period to pre-book a future appointment or provide loyalty points will help clients bounce back during the new year. Salon automatically rewards clients as they leave and prompts you to book their next appointment with ease.
A festive review Salon can also help send clients a thank-you message through email or SMS on leaving, encouraging reviews over the festive period. The system integrates with review platform, salonspy, to send a text one hour after a client’s appointment to thank them for their visit and request a review. Salonspy then displays these on its website, showing prospective clients what others think. This is perfect for highlighting your salon and spreading the message about your services, encouraging people in during new year’s quiet patch.
So why not let Salon help giftwrap your Christmas by being the perfect little helper? To book a free webinar or presentation, call: +44 (0)1543 466580 or visit: premiersalon.co.uk
AUTUMN 2019 SALONFOCUS | SUMMER
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DIS COUNTING T HE BU SI NESS
ly dirty word, g n si a re c in n a Discounting is owners put off by ‘coupon n with many salo , grow by adding value for d clippers’. Instea ents, says Steve Smethurst. g cli new and existin
I
t’s not easy out there. Clothing retailers have been hit hard by highstreet closures over recent years, but the competition in hair and beauty is fierce. According to NHF/NBF statistics, 2000 extra salons have sprung up on our high streets between 2017 and 2018. The traditional way for both new and existing salons to attract clients is to offer money off, but is it sustainable? The results of a new NHF/NBF survey suggest discounting is a double-edged sword at best. More than half of respondents (52%) agree that it
helps to build a column for a new employee, but 43% feel it undervalues the industry, and 28% that it eats into long-term profits.
Don’t discount, add value Ian Finney, a business growth coach based in St Helens, Merseyside, advises against discounting. ‘If you’re cheaper than your competition, it gives the impression that you’re not as good – the wrong message to send for an owner who wants to grow,’ he says. ‘It’s far better to add
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value. I might go to a local barber and there’s a 33% discount on a £15 haircut. That’s a lot to give away off your bottom line. Instead, what if there was a promotion where, if you pay £16, the cut comes with a month’s supply of products? If it’s something they sell for £6, it feels like you’re getting a bargain, and if they bought it wholesale for £2, they’re not losing out. This is adding value and it’s more likely to lead to repeat business.’ Alice Kirby, director at Lockhart Meyer, thinks it’s okay to discount
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TH E BU SI N E S S D IS C O U N T IN G
THAT FRIDAY FEELING One opportunity that many salons take up to provide added value is Black Friday. Lockhart Meyer director Alice Kirby says it’s the perfect excuse for shifting end-of-line stock. Does this apply to Groupontype deals, too? ‘Absolutely not,’ says Alice. ‘Groupon has hit the salon world very hard and I wouldn’t touch it. It attracts “coupon clippers” who just shop around. If they have that mentality, they’re not your ideal client and you don’t want them.’
Y T L A Y LO 44
occasionally. ‘If you’re trying to persuade someone to give you a try, then a money discount is the way to do it for most salons,’ she says. ‘However, once you have them as a client, I don’t believe in discounting. I prefer to add value – give a luxury pedicure instead of a standard one. The maths works out so much better.’ Alice feels that too many salons waste time chasing new clients with offers. ‘The most profitable strategy is to keep the ones you’ve got and sell more to them. Salons need to identify who most of their income comes from and what characteristics these ideal clients share. ‘They’re the ones who’ll buy a product and try new services. If you’re a hair salon, get them on
to colour. If you’re beauty and they come in for waxing, get them to try manicures. They’ll tell their friends. You’ll get recommendations and wordof-mouth is vital.’
A better way forward This is the strategy employed by Victor Pajak, owner of Headquarters Hair Salon in Kingston. He tells salonfocus: ‘My mantra is it’s all about the rebook. My concern isn’t how much money I take on the first visit; what matters is that six weeks later those people are coming back. ‘Our job is to make clients look and feel wonderful. And to deliver that we’ve set the bar high. We offer head and neck
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DISCOUNTS
WHAT'S BEING OFFERED?
massages, a glass of wine... all in a luxury salon environment. Hairdressing is only one part of it.’ The only discounts Victor employs are a 10% loyalty discount and refer a friend. ‘That’s held us in good stead – we have a 92% retention rate,’ he says. ‘We’ve been in business for 20 years and we’ve had customers loyal to us for that length of time.’ Alice disagrees with claims that refer a friend is outdated: ‘It still works. That’s where I would discount, because it is a new client and it’s likely they will fit the ideal profile for you – someone who lives locally and has similar tastes to your existing client.’ For Ian Finney, it all comes back to service: ‘That’s the difference between discounting and creating value,’ he says. ‘Discounting is the worst mistake that you can make. Price-focused buyers will only return when you offer more discounts. It’s better to give something away that adds value but doesn’t cost you too much. That’s the way forward.’
48% Recommend a friend discount for your client and their friend
33% Free or discounted treatment with a stamp card, for example, seventh visit free
33% 31% 20% 16%
Student discounts
Discounts for seniors
Discounts on lastminute appointments
IMAGES: IKON / NOUN PROJECT
SA
LE
Bolt-on treatments, for example, free conditioning treatment
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8% 3 for 2 on retail items and treatments
OUR SURVEY SAYS... ‘Blue-light’ discounts? Recommend-a-friend and loyalty schemes are popular, but some are putting a twist on this by offering discounts for military, police, fire and ambulance personnel. Use them sparingly? As one reported: ‘We use discounts for one service only – Brazilian blow dry – as it fills the diary of graduate stylists and creates opportunities to talk about other services. What about mystery shopper schemes? ‘We give new clients a 50% refund after they have completed the survey. We find that 98% of these mystery shoppers have become regular clients. This is our most successful source of new clients,’ said one salon owner. Black Friday (BF) or not Black Friday? Out of the nearly 29% who took part in BF, just 7% felt that it boosted profits dramatically, and 31% said it had no impact. But 34% said it had enabled them to shift redundant stock.
SALONFOCUS | AUTUMN 2019
16/09/2019 12:53
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WHAT ARE T LEVELS?
T LEV ELS THE BU SI NESS
T Level learners will also need to achieve L2 (grade 4) English and maths, as well as digital skills by the end of the programme
2-year technical study courses for 16- to 18-year-olds
College-based courses with at least 315 hours (around 45 days) of work placements
T Levels will be based on the same standards
as apprenticeships
Equivalent to achieving
3 A Levels
nationally recognised certificate with a grade
cash incentives
T Levels in hair, beauty and aesthetics are to be introduced in
of pass, merit or distinction
for employers
2022 or 2023
Students will get a
Government is planning a trial of
Visit the NHF/NBF education hub to discover more about T Levels and apprenticeships at nhf.info/education
T LEVELS – PROS AND CONS PROS
✔ Significant additional funding will be available to ensure the successful introduction and delivery of T Levels (the government has already announced an extra £500m a year). ✔ Employers can use work placements as an opportunity to identify young people they would want to take on and train further. ✔ All learners will complete a core then choose an option: hairdressing, barbering or beauty therapy. ✔ As beauty therapy courses are already well established in colleges, beauty therapy T Levels should be popular with those employers. CONS
✘ Employers in hairdressing or barbering prefer apprenticeships. ✘ Employers are already finding it difficult to recruit school leavers. Once T Levels are available, there may be even fewer school leavers.
DOING IT TO A We find out about a new technical study programme for 16- to 18-year-olds.
A
s part of the government’s drive to offer better education options for more young people after GCSEs, 16-year-olds will soon be able to choose from a new scheme of technical qualifications called ‘Technical Levels’ or ‘T Levels’.
T Levels explained T Levels are two-year, level 3 study programmes that lead to a specific qualification. Unlike apprenticeships, they will be college-based, although they will involve work placements too. What will be covered? Hair, beauty and aesthetics (HBA) is one of the 15 technical routes specified by the government to develop into a T Level. It will contain a core covering health and safety, sales and marketing and the client journey. Learners will choose an optional specialist skills and knowledge route in hairdressing, barbering or beauty therapy. As the content for aesthetics is higher than level 3, it is not included in the T Level itself, although it is included in the technical information.
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On the horizon A consultation on the HBA T Level draft content has now closed. The feedback will be reviewed, and the content finalised before being passed to the organisation contracted to develop the qualification. Replacement? T Levels are expected to replace many of the vocational and education qualifications offered at level 3. However, they will not replace A Levels or the current apprenticeships in hairdressing, barbering, beauty therapy, beauty and make-up consultancy and nail services.
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TH E I N SPI R AT ION MOOD BOARD HAIRDRESSING
IS IT INSTA GRAM MABLE? 48
@twistedscissorssalonbarbers Rotherham
@thecolourroomherts Hitchin
Take a look at the reds and russets celebrating all things autumnal and the facial fashions and new nails catching our eye. Have you created a style that's a bit different? Something you're particularly proud of and want to shout about? Then post a picture to Instagram with the hashtag #salonfocus and your shot could end up on these pages.
@gracedalgleishx London
@romainandco_ Devizes
@salon_seven7wivenhoe Wivenhoe
@sorella_salon_knaphill Woking
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MOOD BOARD THE I NSPI RAT I O N BARBERS
NAILS
@glam.by.heather Sheffield
@envybarbers London
@bhambnails London
@jodarleyandco Corfe Mullen
@cal_newsome Bridgnorth
@everprettybeautystudio Wakefield
@queenofheartssunderland Sunderland
@beardandbarnetbarber London
@thenailgaledinburgh Edinburgh
@cobellasalon London
@offcutbarberslondon London
@nailedit_beauty Billingham
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TH E I N SPI R AT ION W H AT ' S T R E N D IN G
FASHIONABLE OR A FAUX UX PAS PAS? S? Whether you embrace them or buck them, we take a look at the latest trends.
IMAGES: GETTY / SHUTTERSTOCK / ALAMY / @PARAGONNAILS
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HAIR
UPDO… UPDON’T
MAKE-UP MAK
BETTER THAN SEX? THA It’s a bold name but cult mascara the c seems. The number from Too Faced is living up to its name, it which boasts over US, the in ra masca ge presti lling bestse b one loved’ ‘most the is te, websi ra 380k ‘loves’ on the Sepho rs. The intensely uence infl and media British the by ra masca masc lass-shaped brush black and volumising mascara has an hourg lash. each curls and coats ates, separ s that
It was a trend of the late 90s/early 00s… Keira Knightley famously had it in Love Actually in 2003… And it’s making a comeback, thanks to the Kendall Jenners of the celebrity world… What is it? The face-framing two-strand updo. The tendrils might be slightly thicker, but the overall look is the same – a casual, slightly wispy, I’ve-just-pulledthis-together finish.
What have Boots introduced? RETAIL
CHANGE IT UP What can you do to provide your customers with a different salon/ shop experience? As Boots launches a new concept store in London’s Covent Garden,
we challenge you to suggest some ideas you’ve introduced to improve your clients’ experiences. Why not head to FB – facebook. com/nationalhairdressersfederation – post your ideas and we’ll feature some them in the next issue.
Dedicated skincare zone
Mask Bar
SALONFOCUS SA LO N FO C U S | | AUTUMN SALONFOCUS SPRING 2019 2019
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W HAT'S TRENDING THE I NSPI RAT I O N JOINING THE BRAIDY BUNCH?d, with Boxe or bunned, layered or corne Boxed tap fade or an undercut or even a taper highlig highl hted, it’s braiding that is topping of hot looks for men. Rap stars c the chart such as ASAP Rocky and Travis Scott have contributed a lot to men wanting
NAILS
ONE-LINERS AND PEARLESCENT PINKIES Vertical or horizontal, circles or squiggles, one-line nail art is growing in popularity again. Freehand skills are being ditched in favour of this easy-to-create look. From multicoloured stripes to white or black lines, they create a ‘contouring’ effect. A look that provides its own contouring is the use of embellishments – pearls to be more exact. Either used as a single adornment to each nail or several different-sized jewels on each, pearl-encrusted nails are a firm favourite this season. On a midnight blue or kept natural, they provide a striking yet romantic look.
braids braid . In fact, ‘ASAP ‘ASA Rocky braids braid for men’ is o the most one of search searc ed terms le. G on Goog
BEAUTY
LAMINATE NOT MICROBLADE Cara Delevingne has made bushy brows hot and many are seeking the supermodel’s look, but microblading can be a step too far. Out of the shadows comes Moscow’s answer – brow lamination. The semipermanent grooming trend is similar to a lash lift, which sees eyebrow hairs straightened using a chemical solution for fuller, natural-looking brows that can last up to a month. A new service option for you? MALE GROOMING
WRINKLES? WHERE? Men are increasingly opting for Botox or filler treatment, according to Superdrug. One in five patients at their walk-in service seeking wrinkle treatment over the past 12 months were male. Are you finding an increase in the number of men requesting these treatments?
Beauty Kitchen to refill empties with natural skincare products
Rehydration Station to refill water bottles
The switch to paper bags from plastic across Covent Garden and 52 other stores will take more than 900 tonnes of plastic out of the environment each year.
HAD ANY THOUGHTS ABOUT WHAT YOU’VE READ? TELL US WHAT YOU THINK ON OUR SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORMS
HAIR
JUST RELEASED
NEW PRODUCTS GET ON MESSAGE WITH SMS MARKETING Want to improve your salon’s marketing capabilities? SalonLite by Premier Software’s new SMS marketing feature allows you to do just that. Premier Software’s cloud-based scheduling solution, SalonLite, already has the capability to send appointment reminders by email or SMS. Now it has a new function, which will allow salons to send out general marketing and personalised messages to clients. Users can simply select from one of the pre-made templates available, decide who they would like to contact using the selection criteria, and click send. There are six templates to choose from: birthday, anniversary, thank you, missing you, last-minute availability and new treatment. Seasonal templates will also be available for a limited time. The new SMS service – which has been added to all of SalonLite’s packages including SalonLite Basic – is just one of the features that also include scheduling, point of sale, email, and stock management. salonlite.com
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SALONFOCUS SA LO N FO C U S | AUTUMN 2019
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TH E I N SPI R AT ION HOW TO...
REFURBISH YOUR SALON ON A BUDGET 52
OUR EXPERT
TREVOR LINGARD Trevor is commercial director of salon furniture and design specialists REM UK. With more than 30 years’ experience, Trevor has seen and helped hundreds of salon owners rejuvenate their businesses.
When it comes to a refresh, there aren’t really any shortcuts. However, there are sensibly-priced options and simple choices that will improve your business’s ambience without costing the earth. We speak to Trevor or Lingard of REM UK for or his top tips.
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KNOW YOUR BUDGET AND BUY SENSIBLY
Most trade furniture suppliers have options in their product ranges suitable for everyone, from low-cost to top-end. Know what you’ve got to spend so you know what you can afford to buy. One thing that will help you make the most use of the money you have is the ‘budget planner’ section in the NHF/NBF’s guide to salon design (see nhf.info/salon-design-guide).
SALONFOCUS SALO O NNFF O CU C U S | AUTUMN A UTU UTT U M N 2019 UTUM 201 019 01
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HOW TO... THE I NSPI RAT I O N
2
USE A DESIGN SERVICE This could
save you money in the long run. Designers supplied by trade furniture companies won’t cost a fortune, and the fee may be discounted from your bill if you buy furniture from that manufacturer. You’ll get specialist guidance on what you want to achieve. The designer will measure the workspace and plan with whatever colour scheme you want.
3
APPRECIATE WHERE YOUR UTILITIES ARE LOCATED Another part of the
briefing process with a design service looks at the placing of electrics, water and waste. This again could save you time and money.
SIX QUICK TIPS
DON'T FORGET... KEEP YOUR REFURB PLANS SIMPLE AND REALISTIC – be clear about what you can afford.
WHEN ORDERING NEW FURNITURE, m make sure prices are in’ and include delivery, ‘all in for example.
LOOK OUT FOR FO BUDGET-FRIENDLY a options DEALS – there are out there for all budgets.
INSTALL LED LIGHTS LIGH – they might be more expensive to buy, ex but you’ll you make your money back in a year yea and then keep saving.
REMEMBER UPKEEP AND RE MAINTENANCE – your salon furniture and equipment will last longer and there will be fewer l expensive surprises or complete overhauls. And don’t forget the scuffs and cracks that can appear over time – these are the sort of small details that clients spot.
IMAGE: ISTOCK
KEEP ON TOP OF HEALTH AND SAFETY – order the NHF/NBF health and safety toolkits for everything you need. There’s one for hair (nhf.info/H&S-kit) and one for beauty (nhf.info/beauty-H&S-kit).
4
UNDERSTAND THE IMPORTANCE OF SPACE Good space between and
around workstations or styling chairs is key, but there are other things to consider, too. For example, if you’ve got a leg rest on your wash unit, do you still have a walkway when the leg rest is fully extended? Health and safety considerations and working environment ergonomics are important too (see box for tip on this). So planning is essential – make sure this is accounted for from the outset to save any further cost to rework the space.
5
PICK THE RIGHT COLOUR – BEWARE OF STAINING There are definitely
good and bad colours. And remember, the choice of colour might impact on the speed at which a replacement will be required – stained fabrics make a salon or shop look tired. Most fabrics that manufacturers use prevent stains as long as colourants and dyes are cleaned off fairly quickly. But left, no matter what fabric is used, they will stain. So, go for darker colours.
6
SEE HOW THE BEST DO IT Want to know how the best businesses set out their salons? Here are the Instagram accounts for this year’s NHF/NBF Hair and Beauty Business Award for Best Salon Design finalists… Anne Veck Hair @annevecksalons Deborah Alfa Ltd @deborahalfa Gatsby & Miller Ltd @gatsbyandmiller Harris & Fox @harrisandfox The Beauty Empire @thebeautyempire.uk
8 9 10
KEEP CONTROL OF CLUTTER The best budget advice I can give for improving your business is: keep things tidy. It can be fixed with little outlay.
53
GET IT FINISHED It’s simply not
KEEP BACKWASH AREAS OUT OF THE WAY Most mess in a hair
salon is in the backwash area, so situate that out of view from the shop window. It’s important to remember that although this area can get untidy, it has been found to be key to a client’s overall experience, so if you can invest in this area, do so. Although beauty salons and barbershops tend not to face this issue, the importance of chair and workstation positioning shouldn’t be ignored.
7
SENSIBLE FLOORING I’ve worked with chains who use specific flooring – often similar to ceramic tiles. These can be slippery and break easily. Better surfaces are the Karndean-type flooring options – there are some fantastic designs and colours, but more importantly, they are very durable, quite easy to change and can save you money.
possible to partially refurbish any salon or barbershop, so always plan on doing a total refurbishment rather than going about it piecemeal. Any areas that haven’t had their décor refreshed will stand out like a sore thumb.
STAY LEGAL! All electrical
fittings and appliances must conform to basic EU and UK legislation. So, check every electrical item you purchase has the CE logo proving it conforms. Be aware, too, that any electrical work has to be carried out by a qualified and registered electrician. Similarly, all plumbing fittings need to meet the 1999 water regulations. And even be aware of the safety of things like furniture and mirrors – in 2015 the Hugo Boss retail store in Bicester Village was fined £1.2m after a child was killed by a falling mirror.
SALONFOCUS | AUTUMN 2019
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TH E N H F/N B F R O U N D - U P
Salonfocus cu is going on the road with an event to o help you hit new success in your business. ess If you’ve read about it in the pages ges of the magazine, then you can be sure many of the topics will feature in sur this live event..
The day will include a keynote presentation on how to become a sales superstar, even if you hate selling, and is packed with tips and tricks on three different strands of your business: your clients, your team and your business itself. c Much of the day is split into these three streams so you can pick and choose the s sessions that best suit your needs. s The first day takes place in Birmingham, tthen we do it all again in London later in tthe year. Monday 27 April 2020 – Birmingham Monday 21 September 2020 – London Go to nhf.info/salonfocus-2020 for more information and to book your place.
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WHAT’S HAPPENING? Here’s a brief round-up of key news and campaign messages from the NHF/NBF.
Out and about It’s been a very sociable summer, with lots of awards judging and events to celebrate the winners for chief executive Hilary Hall. Here we share what she’s been up to over the past few months…
London College of Beauty Therapy in front of the judges. The standard was impressive, so it was great to be invited to the Scratch party in July to see the winners receive their awards.
Hilary was a judge for the Scratch magazine awards for the ‘Educator of the Year’ category. The finalists gave a live training session to students at the
Hilary also judged the ‘Marketing Campaign of the Year’ and ‘Client Experience of the Year’ categories for the HJ Business Awards in July. As well as
reviewing wing the he amazing things salons have done to enhan enhance their business awards, she ss awards enjoyed networking with the other judges. Then, finally, it was the NHF/ NBF’s turn, hosting a group of 20 highly respected industry judges for the NHF/NBF Business Awards in early August. The judges were a mix of salon owners, educators, sponsors and
representatives from the trade press with years of experience between them. The finalists have all now been announced and will be eagerly waiting for the awards event at the stunning St Pancras Renaissance Hotel in London on Sunday 17 November. Tickets are selling fast, so book yours now. Turn to page 57 for more. Ian Egerton, NHF/NBF president, and Hilary were delighted to attend the opening of Takara Belmont’s beautifully refurbished showrooms in London’s East End. They met the global president, Mr Hoshina, and learnt that Takara Belmont was also celebrating 60 years in the UK. An important meeting took place with the Low Pay Commissioners to talk about minimum wages for 2020 and beyond. Marc McCune, a member of the NHF/NBF Board, joined Hilary to give the commissioners a firsthand view of how rising wage costs affect salons. Kevin Huggins, also an NHF/NBF Board member, hosted the commissioners who visited his salon in Great Yarmouth. Hilary has also been working on the NHF/NBF response to a government consultation on creating a single body for enforcement of labour laws, rather than having responsibility split across different agencies such as HMRC, the Employment Agency Standards Inspectorate, the Gangmasters and Labour Abuse Authority. The NHF/NBF took the opportunity to call for more enforcement on cash-only businesses and those using modern slave labour, rather than targeting salon owners who make small mistakes in applying complex minimum wage rates.
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SALONFOCUS SALONFOCUS | | AUTUMN SPRING 2019 2019
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ROUND- UP T HE NHF/NBF
Hilary has been working with the civil servants who are developing a new voluntary Code of Practice on tips. Salon owners and employees will have an opportunity to comment on the revised draft when it’s ready. Hilary also took part in a wages and workforce planning roundtable meeting chaired by Mark Pawsey, MP and a member of the BEIS Business Select Committee. The meeting involved several trade associations concerned about the impact of rising employment costs, Brexit and recruitment, especially in industries such as hospitality and catering, particularly in London and other large cities.
2019 stats ts coming soon… oon The NHF/NBF 2019 industry statistics will be released in November.
WELSH AWARDS 2019 The NHF/NBF Welsh Awards are back to celebrate the best in the hairdressing, barbering and beauty industry in Wales. The nominees for the five categories have been revealed and text voting is now open, but you’ve got to be quick as voting closes at 5pm on 18 October. The winners will be announced on 3 November at the Coal Exchange in Cardiff. For more information about the nominees, how to vote and to book your tickets to the event, go to nhf.info/welsh-awards
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What are the five categories? 1. NHF/NBF Welsh Hairdresser of the Year 2. NHF/NBF Welsh Colourist of the Year 3. NHF/NBF Welsh Barber of the Year 4. NHF/NBF Welsh Student/Apprentice of the Year 5. NHF/NBF Welsh Salon Team of the Year
Each year we release the statistics that matter, providing an overview of the hairdressing, barbering and beauty businesses. And there’s not long to wait until this year’s are published. So if you want to know more about the number of hair and beauty businesses in the UK, their contribution to the economy, salon turnovers in different part of the country, how many people are working across the sectors, work patterns, the age and gender of those employed to name but a few, keep an eye out at nhf.info/industry-statistics
SALONFOCUS | AUTUMN 2019
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Hair & Beauty Insurance Salonsure is a comprehensive specialist insurance policy, recommended by the NHF/NBF, specifically designed for hair and beauty salons, barber shops and self-employed chair renters. Become a member of the NHF and NBF and get these amazing benefits: • 20% member discount* • Flexible patch testing requirements • Extensive Treatment • Price Match offer* *Terms and conditions apply and are available on our website at coversure.co.uk/nhf/terms
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EV ENTS T HE NHF/NBF
Step Up & SHINE 2020
ARE YOU A FINALIST? If you entered either the NHF/NBF Business Awards 2019, Britain’s Best 2019 and/ or the Photographic Image of the Year 2019, then you could be clutching an award very soon as the finalists for all three awards have been announced – the last two only in the past couple of weeks! eks! NHF/NBF Business Awards 2019 The NHF/NBF Business Awards celebrate the best hairdressing, barbering and beauty businesses in the industry. All 12 award categories aim to highlight and recognise excellence. So why not check out the list of finalists who made the cut? Head to nhf.info/ nhf-business-awards The winners will be crowned, along with those of the Photographic Image of the Year 2019 (see right), at a fabulous awards evening hosted at the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel in London on 17 November.
Are you a hairdresser longing to improve your skills and be mentored by some of the industry’s finest, but you don’t have the funding? If so, this prestigious industry competition is for you. Step Up & SHINE is open to hairdressers of any level, age or geographic location. Jointly run by the NHF/NBF and the Fellowship for British Hairdressing, the winner receives £2500 to spend on further training. What’s to lose? Bite the bullet, record that video and enter the competition. You might be the next Step Up & SHINE winner. Keep an eye out for updates and entry information in October, when the competition officially launches. Good luck! Check out the NHF/NBF website at nhf.info/step-up-and-shine
Britain's Best 2019 This national floor competition will see hairdressers and barbers sstyling against the clock at the UK UK’s biggest trade show on 6 Oc October. Britain's Best mp competition is in partnership hH with Hairdressers Journal at on International at ExCeL Salon ndo Did you make it through London. e sselection process? Visit the nhf.info/britains-best to find out. hf.i
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Photographic Image of the Year 2019 Stylists, barbers, beauty therapists and make-up artists wowed us with their skills and creativity, showcased in some jaw-dropping images entered into this year’s competition. Are you one of those entries? Find out at nhf.info/photographic
DON’T FORGET TO RESERVE YOUR PLACE! Congratulations if you’re a finalist and a huge ‘well done’ to everyone who entered, there have been some tough decisions to make as the entries were of a very high standard. So whether you’re a finalist or you would like to come along and support our finalists, make sure you jump online and book yourself a ticket to the NHF/ NBF awards evening on 17 November in London (for the Business Awards and the Photographic Image of the Year) and/or entry to Salon International at ExCeL in London on 6 October. Visit nhf.info/events for updates.
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TH E E N D 24 H O U R S W IT H . . .
AMANDA LINEHAN Amanda is the winner of the 2019’s Step Up & SHINE scholarship.
STEP UP & SHINE 2020 You could be in Amanda’s shoes next year, so head to nhf.info/ step-up-and-shine to find out how.
58 My alarm goes off at… 5.00am. I have two slightly different routines. Although I’m the manager of Hot Trends salon in Gillingham, I also have my Step Up & SHINE training days where I go to London. So far, I’ve been to my mentor Debbie G’s salon Billie Currie in Marylebone, RUSH in Covent Garden and GHD in Soho. The last course I went on was at the L’Oréal Academy in Hammersmith, where I did a balayage and freehand class.
I’m responsible for… a team of six
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at my salon, so on Step Up & SHINE days I leave my assistant Lauren to take over. During the day we text each other to make sure everything’s running smoothly.
Days out of the salon as part of my Step Up & SHINE scholarship… I use the time on the train to London to remind myself what the course involves, then I post on Instagram
to let everyone know what I’m up to. On arrival at the L’Oréal Academy, as a class, we had a meet and greet, then we were shown round and had a briefing about the day’s course. The courses themselves tend to run from 9.30am to 5pm, but I try to get there a little earlier to make sure I can have a chat with my classmates.
The best part of the Step Up & SHINE scholarship… It’s good to get out of the salon for a day, it’s nice to have some different scenery and I love the atmosphere in London. The courses are always fascinating because you get to meet people from all different salons and it’s interesting to see how they do things. Effectively, though,
we’re all there to learn the same thing, which is good and means no one feels out of place.
Post-course… When the courses finish and because it’s rush hour and I need to write up what I’ve learnt, I find somewhere to have a coffee and go through my notes. I upload pictures to Instagram too. There’s a lot of information to take in on these courses, so having an hour to process it straight afterwards helps me take it all in. Then, when I get home, my husband asks me how the day went and I’m normally buzzing, so I tell him all about it. A couple of work colleagues often text to ask how I’ve got on. And then I just chill because I’m normally quite zonked!
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