Salonfocus September - October 2016

ÂŁ3.50 Sept/Oct 2016

The essential magazine for salon owners

THE LOOK OF LOVE How to put the wow factor into your salon brand

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Six months on from the living wage, how salons are coping

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Why clients are becoming less inclined to leave a tip

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All you need to know about the NHF’s new autumn events

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Contents

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P6 NEWS NHF reassures salons over “Brexit”

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P10 SWEET POST-16?

The government’s plans to reform post-16 training P12 REGISTER YOUR VOICE Introducing the Hair Council’s new registrar, Keith Conniford P14 EARNING POWER Six months on from the National Living Wage, how are salons coping?

P16 PAY CHECK With National Minimum Wage rates going up next month, the NHF has updated and expanded its popular guide for members P20 EYES ON THE PRIZE Former Britain’s Best judge MK on how to stand out from the competition crowd P22 THE LOOK OF LOVE How NHF members have created truly memorable brand identities for their salons P28 YOUR DESIGN DOS AND DON’TS Top tips from salon design, fit-out and marketing experts

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P32 SERVICE CALL The changing face of tips and tipping P34 INVEST IN YOURSELF What’s new in the NHF’s autumn 2016 programme of business events P36 EVENTS P37 REFLECTED GLORY Statement and “signature” mirrors can set your salon apart

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P38 YOUR QUESTIONS Your employment and legal headaches answered

CONNECT WITH US AND HAVE YOUR COMMENTS AND TWEETS IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF SALONFOCUS Sept/Oct 2016 | salonfocus

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Welcome

PRESIDENT’S

L E T T E R SALONFOCUS IS PUBLISHED BY: National Hairdressers’ Federation, One Abbey Court, Fraser Road, Priory Business Park, Bedford MK44 3WH t: +44 (0) 1234 831965 f: +44 (0) 1234 838875 e: sfenquiries@salonfocus.co.uk w: www.nhf.info PUBLISHER Hilary Hall e: hilary.hall@nhf.info EDITOR Nic Paton e: nic@cormorantmedia.co.uk EVENTS AND SOCIAL MEDIA Victoria Priestley t: +44 (0) 1234 834386 e: Victoria.Priestley@nhf.info ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Andy Etherton T: + 44 (0) 1536 527297 e: andy.etherton@nhf.info DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Sam Greenwood Matrix Print Consultants Ltd t: +44 (0) 1536 527297 e: sam@matrixprint.com While every care is taken in compiling this issue of salonfocus including manuscripts and photographs submitted, we accept no responsibility for any losses or damage, whatever the cause. All information and prices contained in advertisements are accepted by the publishers in good faith as being correct at the time of going to press.

Neither the advertisers nor the publishers accept any responsibility for any variations affecting price variations or availability after the publication has gone to press. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the permission of the publisher, to whom application must first be made. The views expressed by contributors to salonfocus are not necessarily those of the NHF, the publisher or its editor. © 2016 The National Hairdressers’ Federation.

Material for consideration in this section of the magazine should be submitted via email or digital file transfer to the editor, salonfocus. Submissions should be made on the understanding that the National Hairdressers’ Federation has the right to use the material in any part of the magazine and any of its other publications, promotions or website, free from any copyright restrictions, or appearance fees other than the issue of artistic and photographic credits where applicable. Please include salon name, photographer and stylist.

airdressing and barbering has always been a very visual industry – our job is to make our clients look and feel their best

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But it’s not just the hair, cut, style or colour that needs to look the part, the salon needs to look great too. Salon and barbershop owners recognise that the salon “experience” starts the moment the client steps through the door.

The design – the décor, furniture, colours, lighting, creative stylistic touches – is ABOUT AGNES just as important as the service, Agnes Leonard is president professionalism and skill of of the NHF and a registered hairdresser. She has worked in the team. the industry for over 40 years and owns Croppers Hair Studio All salons are different – we all in Dundee, a busy, family-run salon successfully adapting to the have different shapes, spaces and fast-changing retail environment budgets to play with, as well as – just, in fact, like many NHF members up and down the different visions for what’s going to country. work in our local area or how we want to be viewed by our clients. In this edition we’ve pulled together helpful hints and tips about how to create a real visual buzz, a wow factor, around your salon or barbershop.

With the climate on the high street looking more uncertain since June’s “Brexit” referendum vote, having a really strong and inviting look and atmosphere will be a valuable selling point for successful salons and barbershops.

AGNES LEONARD NHF president

COMING UP IN NOV/DEC

THE GLAMOUR EDITION How to turn your salon into your high street’s go-to glamour/night out destination, whether it’s nails, tanning, eyebrows, extensions or more.

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2016

The government's latest plans for apprenticeship funding unpicked, and what they could mean for salons The fast-changing shape of payment technology and salon software

Do you have a salon story to tell? Would you like to be featured in salonfocus?

Get in touch with the team, on 01234 834385, or send an email to nic@cormorantmedia.co.uk

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News

S A L O N S T O L D ‘DON’T PANIC’ ABOUT ‘BREXIT’ VOTE une’s surprise “Brexit” vote by the UK to leave the European Union may have thrown politics into turmoil, but hairdressing and beauty salons and barber shops have been told “don’t panic” by the NHF.

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NHF president Agnes Leonard has emphasised that, while it is still unclear how the exit process will affect the economy and consumer confidence, the UK’s hairdressing, barbering and beauty industry is robust and remains economically in good shape.

“If the fall-out from this vote is that Britain’s tips back into a recession, that has the potential to be damaging for our industry. But, for the moment, there are so many unknowns that it is impossible to be sure what the future holds,” she said.

“Exiting the EU is not something that is going to happen overnight and, as such, in reality nothing on our high streets has changed. Salons should be reassuring clients, and themselves that, for now, it is ‘business as usual’,” Agnes added.

And NHF chief executive Hilary Hall has highlighted that Brexit even has the potential to offer some good

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2016

news for salon owners and barber shops.

For example, the NHF has been campaigning hard against health and safety reforms proposed by Coiffure EU (which represents European hairdressing trade bodies) and UNI Europa (which represents European trade unions) that it has been estimated could, if implemented fully, cost the UK industry around £65m per year.

“Equally, if EU proposals to limit the power of certain items of electrical equipment turns out to include hairdryers after all – despite the NHF’s campaign to exclude them – Brexit means it is unlikely that restrictions will be implemented within the UK unless the UK government decides to do so,” Hilary added.

EUROPEAN INDUSTRY However Brexit goes, the NHF will maintain close contact with industry colleagues in Europe, Hilary also stressed.

“We’re keen to support and contribute to positive measures which will help the industry, such as a common approach to allergy testing for hair colour, but safe in the knowledge that decisions about what measures to adopt remain within UK control,” she said.

News

TRAINING ‘VICTORY’

Small salons will not be forced to contribute to the cost of training young apprentices, the government has proposed, in a move the NHF has described as a victory for the industry and its lobbying work behind the scenes.

The Department for Education in August outlined its proposed new funding model for apprenticeships from next year. Feedback is now being sought from employers.

While most employers will be required to “co-invest” 10% of the cost of training, this will be waived for small businesses (employing fewer than 50 people) who take on 16-18 year olds.

NHF chief executive Hilary Hall described this as potentially “great news” for salons.

“This is vindication of all the hard work the NHF has done behind the scenes to get a better deal for small businesses from government. At one point there was talk of

WELSH ‘SUNBED TAX’ IDEA

small salons being asked to pay as much as a third of the cost of training, so this is a major victory for the industry,” she said.

But it did still leave a question mark over what this will mean for those who stay in school until the age of 18 and only then decide to do an apprenticeship.

“It will be important for more work to be done with schools and parents to emphasise the value of taking up an apprenticeship at the age of 16 rather than waiting until 18, and then potentially being disadvantaged as a result,” Hilary added.

The plan has also proposed small employers will get £1,000 as an incentive if they take on 16- to 18-year-old apprentices, with training providers getting another £1,000.

There will be a full analysis of what the proposals could mean for salons in the November/December edition of salonfocus.

STAFF SICK NOTE

‘EXTENSION’ DISMISSED Doctors have suggested people should be able to call in sick for up to two weeks before needing to be signed off work by their GP. However, the government has dismissed the call

from the British Medical Association (BMA), with the Department for Work and Pensions stressing there are no plans to change the existing arrangements, which allow people to “selfcertify” that they are unwell

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for up to a week.

The BMA argued at its annual conference in June that moving to a fortnightly system would help to reduce the number of unnecessary GP appointments.

A think-tank has urged the Welsh Government to impose a tax on sunbeds as a way of reducing rates of skin cancer by discouraging people from tanning in this way.

The Bevan Foundation, which looks at ways to make Wales more “fair, prosperous and sustainable”, said a “proportional” extra sales tax on businesses offering sunbeds would help to reduce the number of visits and the time spent per session.

ONLINE ERRORS Two thirds (66%) of hairdressers are potentially losing out on customers because basic online information, such as the salon's phone number or email address, is wrong, research has suggested.

The study by digital marketing firm Yell also found that, for more than half of customers (51%), a salon’s website was the deciding factor as to whether to make an appointment or not.

More than half (54%) also looked for positive online reviews.

Sept/Oct 2016 | salonfocus

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News

COVENANTS CALL Restrictive covenants should be tightened so as to prevent an employee from setting up a rival business within five miles of their previous employer for at least six months, the NHF has argued.

The suggestion was made within a government “call for evidence” looking at whether so-called “non-compete clauses”, which are also known within the industry as restrictive covenants, should be banned from employment contracts because they stifle entrepreneurship.

Currently, restrictive covenants within a contract tend only to prevent a stylist, barber or beauty therapist from setting up within half a mile of their former employer for six months after they have left the business.

But the NHF in its evidence argued that giving former employees too much freedom to lure away existing clients

by setting up a rival business on the doorstep or working for a nearby competitor can be potentially devastating for an otherwise successful hair or beauty salon or barber shop.

NHF president Agnes Leonard said: “Typically the clauses are limited to six months after employment ends and to a radius of half a mile, because that’s what the courts consider ‘reasonable’. We feel a radius of five miles would be more appropriate.”

“Our experience shows that it is too difficult for employers to get an injunction. It’s expensive and slow, and the interpretation of ‘reasonable’ restrictions is too narrow,” added NHF chief executive, Hilary Hall.

The call for evidence ran until mid-July and a formal consultation process is expected to take place during the autumn.

WARNING OVER ILLEGAL WORKERS S

alons have been warned new rules cracking down on firms that employ people illegally came into force in July.

Salons have been warned new rules cracking down on firms that employ people illegally came into force in July.

Under the changes, part of the Immigration Act 2016, an employer can be found guilty of employing an illegal worker if investigators decide he or she did so while having “reasonable cause” to believe the employee was disqualified from working.

Previously, investigators had to show the employer actively knew it was doing so. The change essentially makes it easier to prove an employer has committed an offence.

The NHF has advice on the sort of checks salons need to make in its new Guide to Employing People, available through the online shop at nhf.info

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2016

WHOLESALER IN THIRD DEAL Wholesaler Aston & Fincher has bought East Midlands rival AKS. The deal, for an undisclosed sum, is the third recent acquisition by the company, which has also bought Stafford Hairdressing Supplies and Head 2 Toe in Milford Haven.

It means the firm now has 32 stores and serves some 15,000 hair and beauty businesses.

News

TWITTER FOLLOWERS 9,795

FACEBOOK LIKES 11,628

LESSONS FROM DECLINE OF

‘SHAMPOO AND SET’

Immediate past president Paul Curry was interviewed by the BBC in July for Radio Four’s You and Yours for a programme looking at changing generational expectations among salon clients, and how salons have adapted as a result.

In particular, the programme highlighted the decline of the “shampoo and set”, once one of the most popular post-war hairstyle choices but which has now fallen out of fashion among many younger clients.

Paul made the point that demand for shampoo and set will continue to decline as the clients who still want the service get older.

Paul said: “Decades ago, ladies would have a shampoo and set every week, every single week, without fail.”

The programme also interviewed Lesley Woods, owner of Elegance salon in Liverpool for the past 26 years, who agreed she had seen a decline in demand for the shampoo and set.

The fact the service requires frequent professional maintenance, unlike a regular cut or blow dry, meant it was also a declining source of regular income, she pointed out.

MUSIC ‘MAKEOVER’ A Brighton salon and NHF member has won a £5,000 “music makeover” in a competition run by music licensing company PRS for Music.

Simon Webster Hair beat off 300 other entrants to win the competition, and will now work with PRS for Music to transform the salon into a “music haven”, the company said.

PRS for Music chairman Guy Fletcher said the judges had been particularly impressed by the way the salon worked with local artists and musicians.

Salon manager Sophie Webster added: “We try so hard to work with all the amazing creative industries in Brighton, with music at the forefront, and we’re so excited finally to be able to have a music system that reflects our passion.”

Two salons – Westbourne Beauty Clinic in Emsworth, Hampshire, and The Salon of Chi

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in Henley-on-Thames in Oxfordshire – won runners-up prizes worth £2,500 each.

The competition is now in its second year, and last year was also won by an NHF member, Paula Foskett of One. A salon in Caernarfon.

WHAT’S TRENDING WHO INSPIRED YOU TO BE A HAIRDRESSER OR BARBER? WAS IT YOUR MUM/DAD OR ANOTHER FAMILY MEMBER? Mr Hair Care @misterhaircare My favourite aunt, a genius at beehives!

James Kirton @james kirton1971 I left the army, picked up a paper, closed my eyes and where my finger stopped that’s where it all began WHAT IS YOUR BIGGEST ACHIEVEMENT SO FAR? Boom Hair Design @boomhairdesign Leaving my past salon with just 7 clients and starting on my own with now over 600 active ones within 3 years #proud Emily Warne @emilyspurling Opening two salons at 28 years old!

HOW DO YOU KEEP ALL YOUR STAFF MOTIVATED SO THEY ENJOY COMING TO WORK AND PROVIDE A GOOD SERVICE FOR YOUR CLIENTS? Sixth Sense Salon @sixthsensesalon We use an incentives company, their birthday off paid and KPI monitored bonuses Sid Sottung Academy @sottungacademy If they truly are passionate about the trade, then they motivate themselves!

JOIN IN THE CONVERSATION @NHFederation

SOPHIE AND SIMON WEBSTER: COMPETITION WINNERS.

facebook.com/national hairdressersfederation

Sept/Oct 2016 | salonfocus

SWEET POST-16?

THE GOVERNMENT IN JULY UNVEILED A SET OF RADICAL REFORMS THAT COULD TRANSFORM POST-16 VOCATIONAL TRAINING. SALONFOCUS REPORTS. irst, a health warning. Anything the government announced over the summer, before the appointment of Theresa May as prime minister in July and a new administration, has the potential to be undone or changed in the coming weeks and months.

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To that end, the announcement by the Department for Business, Innovation and Skills of a “Post-16 Skills Plan” to transform post-16 training and education just days before Ms May entered 10 Downing Street had the misfortune to be rather poorly timed. Indeed, skills minister Nick Boles, who wrote the foreword, resigned barely five days after it was published.

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2016

Education and training

Nevertheless, until we hear otherwise, what the government is proposing could have the potential to be positive for salons.

In essence, the plan, which will come into effect from 2019, will be as follows. When someone reaches 16, they will make a decision as to whether they want to pursue more technical, vocational training or to carry on with academic schooling.

SINGLE QUALIFICATION For those who want to go down the technical route, rather than being faced with thousands of different training courses or apprenticeships to choose from (as is the case now), they will choose to pursue one of 15 so-called “technical pathways” (and see the graphic below for how this will work).

The good news for our industry is that hairdressing, barbering and beauty is going to be one of these pathways. In other words, anyone wanting to go into hairdressing, barbering and beauty will have to follow the hair and beauty pathway.

Once on the pathway, things will be simplified still further. There will be just one nationally recognised certificate at Level 2 and Level 3.

The government’s new Institute for Apprenticeships, which is expected to begin work next year, will oversee the development of these, and will be expected to consult with employer-led panels as part of this process.

In practice school leavers will choose between doing an apprenticeship – and the ongoing “trailblazer” reforms mean these, of course, are going to be new-look too – and going to college.

If they go to college, their learning will still be closely aligned to apprenticeships, including requiring mandatory work placements.

From there, both apprentices and college-trained students will be expected to come out into the workplace with a single, nationally recognised and employer-backed Level 2 or Level 3 certificate.

One of the most positive aspects of this from the NHF’s perspective is that the Federation and skills body

Habia were closely involved with the original review into post-16 training carried out by Lord Sainsbury that has been the basis of these reforms.

As chief executive Hilary Hall said: “The NHF and Habia took part in a meeting to feed in our views to the Sainsbury review, along with a group of employers, which included NHF members and members of the apprenticeship trailblazer group. We’re very pleased to see that the views we put across so strongly have been picked up in this report.

“Apprenticeships are highly valued by salons. But college-based qualifications have been less highly regarded because they often fail to provide the same practical, hands-on workplace experience and learning.

“These government proposals go a long way towards addressing this imbalance between apprenticeships and college-based qualifications, and we’re delighted that employers, through the new Institute for Apprenticeships, will continue to play a prominent role in working out the detail of these reform.

“However, if the new college-based technical qualifications are going to be supported by public subsidy, we call for the new ‘trailblazer’ apprenticeships to be supported in the same way, reducing the cost for small businesses,” she added.

A-Levels and/or applied general qualifications

Transition year (if appropriate)

Nevertheless, these reforms, combined with the ongoing changes to apprenticeships (with the latest funding reforms highlighted in News in this edition), have the potential to be good news for salons. The industry, and the NHF, will continue to watch how they unfold with great interest.

IF NOTHING ELSE READ THIS… • From 2019, there will be 15 technical pathways that school leavers can choose from, rather than thousands of different college vocational courses • Hair and beauty will be one of these 15 • There will be a single nationally recognised Level 2 or Level 3 qualification • College-based vocational training will be more closely aligned to apprenticeships, with the intention being that both will leave trainees much more “salon ready”

Skilled employment

Skilled employment

Higher education (undergraduate degree)

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Bridging provision (where appropriate)

Degree apprenticeships Higher education and higher (levels 4/5 technical education) apprenticeships

College-based technical education including placement in industry

Employment-based technical education, eg apprenticeship with at least 20% college-based education

Transition year and/or traineeship (if appropriate)

GCSEs and technical awards

GCSEs and technical awards

Academic option

Technical option

Sept/Oct 2016 | salonfocus

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Hair Council

REGISTER

YOUR VOICE NEW HAIR COUNCIL REGISTRAR KEITH CONNIFORD IS PASSIONATE ABOUT MANDATORY REGISTRATION. EVEN WITH WESTMINSTER IN TURMOIL, IT IS IMPORTANT THE INDUSTRY KEEPS PRESSING ITS CASE IN PARLIAMENT, HE TELLS SALONFOCUS. Keith Conniford

have been a hairdresser ever since I left school. I opened my first salon at the age of 19-and-a-half and have spent time in manufacturing and training as well as hairdressing, retailing and spas.

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I have always been passionate about building towards mandatory registration for this industry. If you go to Germany or the US and tried to cut hair without being properly qualified, you just wouldn’t be able to do it, so why should it be OK here?

It is so wrong that the profession has not got the recognition it deserves. Most consumers, to be honest, probably have no idea that there is no requirement for the person cutting their hair to be properly registered. Someone can pick up a pair of scissors or apply bleach to your hair or head without any kind of regulation in place.

So when I was contacted by the Hair Council to see if I would be interested in helping it to push for mandatory registration, I jumped at the opportunity.

The Hairdressing (Registration) Act has been in place since 1964. There was the debate in the House of Commons back in 2011 on moving from voluntary to mandatory registration and the issue was also discussed by MPs last year.

ALL-PARTY GROUP One significant step forward is that we do now have an AllParty Parliamentary Group on the Hair Industry, which has opened the door slightly and is helping to get the industry’s voice heard in Parliament. With a number of MPs on our side it really does feel we are now moving in the right direction.

Mandatory registration is, in part, about the reputation and professionalism of the industry. But it is also, of course, about giving consumers the protection they deserve, of ensuring that when someone goes to a hairdresser or barber they know that person will be properly trained and qualified to carry out any service to their hair.

While mandatory registration remains the long-term ambition, in the shorter term we’ll continue to strengthen

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2016

and promote the case for voluntary registration and the value of continuing professional development and training for hairdressing and barbering staff.

I therefore urge all hairdressers and barbers, and especially NHF members, to become state registered voluntarily. Then, together, we can continue to make the argument for putting this wonderful industry of ours on a more professionally regulated footing.

MANDATORY REGISTRATION IS, IN PART, ABOUT THE REPUTATION AND PROFESSIONALISM OF THE INDUSTRY. BUT IT IS ALSO, OF COURSE, ABOUT GIVING CONSUMERS THE PROTECTION THEY DESERVE, OF ENSURING THAT WHEN SOMEONE GOES TO A HAIRDRESSER OR BARBER THEY KNOW THAT PERSON WILL BE PROPERLY TRAINED AND QUALIFIED.

DISCOUNTED REGISTRATION The NHF has agreed a deal with the Hair Council to offer NHF members a discounted price on voluntary state registration.

Under the deal NHF salons that pay by direct debit annually will only pay a fee of £28 a year per employee rather than the standard fee of £42.

Employees who have completed their Level 2 within the past two years but have yet to complete their Level 3 can be registered for a discounted fee of £26 a year.

Separately, the Hair Council in August also agreed a deal with HMRC to allow salons to claim tax relief on voluntary state registration fees.

To find out more about this, and about applying for voluntary state registration generally, go to haircouncil.org.uk

KEITH’S CV June 2016 Appointed registrar of the Hair Council, replacing Sally Styles, who left the council in April.

January 2013 - present day Freelance business, hairdressing, retailing and training consultant.

August 1986 – November 2012 Managing director of Crowns Group Salon franchising, retailing and training divisions and then chief executive of the merged Lookfantastic Group, when he left following the acquisition of the Group Companies in November 2012.

Sept/Oct 2016 | salonfocus

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The National Minimum Wage

EARNING

POWER

SIX MONTHS ON FROM THE ARRIVAL OF THE NATIONAL LIVING WAGE, SALONS HAVE COPED WELL, NHF RESEARCH HAS FOUND. BUT THERE ARE WORRIES ABOUT WHAT MIGHT HAPPEN NEXT. he £7.20-an-hour National Living Wage (NLW) for over25s is six months old this month.

How have salons dealt with the arrival of this new higher pay rate for older workers?

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To find out, the NHF surveyed members as part of gathering evidence to feed into the Low Pay Commission which, in turn, has been deciding what it intends to recommend to government for next year’s rates.

This found that, by and large, salons have coped well with the arrival of the new rate. In fact, nearly half (49%) say the National Living Wage has had little or no effect whatsoever because their staff aged over 25 are experienced, have built up their columns and, as such, are already earning more than £7.20 an hour.

As the NHF’s evidence concluded: “Most salons provide bonuses or commissions linked to performance targets so stylists in this age bracket (25 or over) are likely to be earning more than the NLW. There is a direct correlation between the earnings of the stylist and the takings for the salon, so there were positive comments about the NLW and the principle of paying a decent salary.”

For some salons where this is not the case, however, the impact has been much greater, with some reporting it had led to them having to reduce their profits, cut hours or even lay off staff.

As one member put it (and see panel opposite): “We have had to shut one of our two shops and merge into one. In doing so we have made two receptionists redundant and have not replaced staff that have left of their own accord.”

The government has long said its ambition is for the National Living Wage to be £9 an hour by 2020.

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2016

However, the economic outlook is now looking more uncertain in the wake of June’s European Union referendum vote. The worry therefore is that this, in turn, could affect consumer confidence and so make it harder to pass on wage increases to clients. As such, the NHF in its evidence urged the government to show restraint and not to push too far or too fast when it comes to future rises.

RISING COSTS Along with the general economic worries, salons are having to cope with rising costs, notably the expense of setting up and paying into a staff pension for the first time under pensions autoenrolment. Business rates were cited as another cost burden by many salons.

When asked how they would respond to a £9-an-hour National Living Wage, the consensus was that it would be a struggle, with salons saying they would have little option but to do the following, in order of most likely to least likely: • Freeze recruitment of new employees • Reduce the hours for employees • Make a smaller profit • Put plans for investment or expansion on hold • Reduce the number of employees • Consider selling or leaving their business • Switch to chair renting (self-employment) As NHF chief executive Hilary Hall emphasised: “Salons are telling us that, if minimum and living wage rates continue to rise sharply, they may be forced to freeze recruitment, reduce staff hours, put expansion plans on ice or even lay off staff.

“We therefore urge the Low Pay Commission to reflect this in its recommendations to government, and we urge the new chancellor Philip Hammond to keep any wage rate increases next year to an absolute minimum.”

WHAT SALONS SAY HAS HAPPENED

WHAT MEMBERS SAID “The impact of the NLW introduced in April on its own did not worry us too much, but it comes on top of the other wage increases previously and new pensions contributions.”

39%

"My profits have reduced a little"

39%

"No impact, my staff aged 25 and over were already earning more than £7.20 per hour"

14%

"My profits have reduced significantly"

13%

"I have reduced hours"

12%

"I have increased pay for more senior staff to maintain pay differentials"

12%

"I have reduced the number of employees"

“I agree with the NLW but I think such a big increase in one go is dangerous to businesses with mainly adult staff.”

“I think that stylists should be paid what they are worth (mine get paid over £10 per hour) but the ever-increasing minimum wage puts a strain on all small businesses.”

“We have had to shut one of our two shops and merge into one. In doing so we have made two receptionists redundant and have not replaced staff that have left of their own accord.”

“I could never employ due to the new wage increase and the pension situation. Even taking on newly qualified stylists will have to be on a self-employment basis.”

“The £7.20 per hour is reasonable. My greater concern is where this constant increasing ends. If this continues on an annual basis it could have a significant effect on the stability of the business.”

“I agree everyone should earn a decent wage but they are putting it up too fast for small businesses to cope.”

9%

"No impact, I passed the cost on to clients by increasing my prices"

5%

"I have reduced commissions and/or bonuses"

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The National Minimum Wage

PAY CHECK

WITH NATIONAL MINIMUM WAGE RATES RISING NEXT MONTH, THE NHF HAS UPDATED ITS POPULAR MEMBERS’ GUIDE, INCLUDING EXPLAINING SOME OFTEN MISUNDERSTOOD QUESTIONS.

rom October, all the National Minimum Wage rates will be going up. Salon owners will therefore need to ensure their payroll systems are ready and able to cope with this change if they want to have peace of mind that their employees aren’t suddenly being paid below the legal minimum.

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The one rate that won’t be changing will be the new National Living Wage for over-25s, as that was only introduced in April. But the October increase is likely to be just the start.

Further rises are expected next April when the government will align the “uprating” of both wages so they both go up at the same point of the year from there

onwards. Check out our checklist opposite to tick off what you should have already done, or be doing, to prepare for the new wage rates.

Ahead of the change, the NHF has also updated and extended its guide to minimum wage levels.

As the name suggests, the new NHF Guide to the National Minimum Wage and National Living Wage now covers both the living wage and the minimum wage.

Other important additions include a section explaining the concept of “working hours” in the context of minimum and living wage pay.

For example, if you regularly require an employee to arrive 15 minutes before opening, that time needs to be paid for. Similarly, time spent training, whether in the salon or elsewhere, including attending a “model night”, must be paid.

Time spent travelling for business, for example if you ask an employ to travel to a training course during working hours, must also be factored into your calculations of the number of paid hours they have worked. This does not, however, include commuting between home and work.

DEDUCTIONS FROM SALARY Another key new area covered in the guide is that of deductions from salary. As highlighted in the last edition of salonfocus, salons need to be very careful about taking deductions out of an employee’s salary for things such as uniforms, tools such as scissors or combs and other equipment.

If you do so and the result is these deductions then push the employee’s pay below the legal minimum, that will potentially spark an expensive HMRC pay investigation.

The guide also emphasises that any “personal protective equipment” (in other words gloves or aprons) must be provided, and paid for, by the salon.

The Guide to the National Minimum Wage and National Living Wage is available free to members as an online download, from nhf.info/nhf-guides

MINIMUM WAGE RATES PER HOUR FROM OCTOBER

£ GUIDE TO THE NATIONAL MINIMUM WAGE AND NATIONAL LIVING WAGE FOR EMPLOYERS IN

HAIRDRESSING, BARBERING AND BEAUTY salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2016

RATE

CURRENT FROM LEVEL OCTOBER 2016

INCREASE

National Living Wage (25+)

£7.20

£7.20

None

Adult (21-24)

£6.70

£6.95

+25p (3.7%)

Youth development (18-20)

£5.30

£5.55

+25p (4.7%)

16-17 year-old

£3.87

£4.00

+13p (3.4%)

Apprentice*

£3:30

£3.40

+10p (3%)

*The apprentice rate applies to those aged 16-18 training on an apprenticeship and to those aged 19 or over who are in the first year of an apprenticeship, after which they are paid at the appropriate age-related rate.

YOUR MINIMUM WAGEREADY CHECKLIST Review your payroll

Even if you’re paying an accountant or payroll firm to do this for you, you will be responsible if things go wrong. So make it your job to check your systems.

Don’t forget to review whether casual or part-time workers are being paid the appropriate rate.

Use support tools

Use the NHF if you have a query. The Legal Lifeline (01234 831965) can help with employment and legal questions, while the team can support you with employment and business questions.

NHF membership also offers access to a range of online tools, including a calculator for calculating minimum wage entitlement.

Make sure you are using any offsets, exclusions or deductions

Deductions can be a minefield. If in doubt, contact the NHF and don’t forget to use the new Guide to the National Minimum Wage and National Living Wage.

Communicate the change

Be proactive about communicating the new rates, both to managers and employees. This will show you’re being transparent about wages and are committed to being a “good” employer.

Review prices and outgoings

This is, of course, something most salons do all the time anyway. But, given that there’s likely to be more rises next April, it is good idea to carefully revisit all your outgoings and whether any savings can be made. Also look at whether there’s any way to pass on increases through raising prices.

Look at wages elsewhere

The NHF has consistently highlighted to the Low Pay Commission the effect constant increases in minimum wage rates have in terms of eroding the difference between the pay of those on the lowest rates and more senior staff. So you may need to revisit whether other staff need a rise to maintain their pay difference. If you can afford to do so.

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20

Britain’s Best and Photographic Stylist of the Year

EYES ON THE

PRIZE

WHAT DOES IT TAKE TO DO WELL IN A COMPETITION LIKE BRITAIN’S BEST? RENOWNED BARBER MK, A JUDGE LAST YEAR, REVEALS HIS TOP TIPS FOR HOW TO IMPRESS THE JUDGES.

ritain’s Best is not an easy competition to win.

It’s going to take commitment, hard work, a cool head under pressure and, of course, talent and creativity. Nevertheless, there are some basic things you can do to help you stand out from the crowd. Here’s my six top tips.

B

1. Read the rules. Think about how consistent your style is, how on the mark it is, in terms of the guidelines of the category you’re competing in. If it’s not what that category is about, it’s not going to win.

2. Make sure your model is well suited to the style you’re creating.

Your model needs to have a look that will work with the style and cut.

Think, too, beyond the hair. How is he or she going to be dressed? How do you will want them to stand, what sort of expression should they have?

3. Plan, plan, plan. This can’t be over-emphasised. Even if you don’t have access to your model in advance do some shadow cutting. Go through the whole cut in your mind, work through each lever, comb, cut or technique as if you are actually there on the competition floor.

4. Organise your toolbox. When you’re working under time pressure you don’t want to be wasting time trying to find something. So organise your toolkit with exactly what you’ll need and nothing more.

Understand how you work. How, for example, do you pick up? With your right or left hand? Even small things can make a difference.

5. Finish on time. No one wins a competition with a half-finished entry!

6. Get the hardest elements over with first. If you’ve shadow cut and properly planned it, this should be straightforward. If you get the hardest cuts done first you can then focus on getting the overall style, look and finish right – and finish with a smile!

THANK YOU TO OUR BRITAIN'S BEST SPONSORS

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2016

BRITAIN’S BEST WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW Where: The British Motor Museum, Gaydon, Warwickshire When: 13 November, 2016 Doors open: 9am. But make sure your model is ready to take to the floor one hour before your competition is due to start.

CATEGORIES This year there are 11 categories: • Blow-dry - Consumer Fashion Style (students and trainees). Entry price: £15.

• Blow-dry – Consumer Fashion Style (open to all). £20.

• Male Fashion Look – On Trend (students and trainees). £15.

• Male Fashion Look – On Trend (open to all). £20.

• Hair-Up – Glamorous Night on the Town (students and trainees). £15.

• Hair-Up – Glamorous Night on the Town (open to all). £20.

• Fantasy Total Look (open to all). £20.

• Female Fashion Look – On Trend (open to all). £20.

• Bridal Make-up (open to all). £10.

• The Bride – Conventional or NonConventional (open to all). £20.

• Colour of the Day (open to all). £10.

To enter, simply go online to britainsbest.me Entry on the door for all spectators is £10.

BRITAIN’S BEST CHAMPIONS 2016 • To become Ladies Champion 2016 – you must enter both category two and eight, in other words: Blow-dry – Consumer Fashion Style (open to all), and Female Fashion Look – On Trend (open to all).

• To become Men’s Champion 2016 – you must enter both category two and four, in other words: Blow-dry – Consumer Fashion Style (open to all), and Male Fashion Look – On Trend (open to all).

DEREK COOKNELL PHOTOGRAPHY

YOUR LAST CALL FOR PHOTOGRAPHIC! The clock is ticking for getting entries in to this year’s Photographic Stylist of the Year Competition.

The winners will also be announced at Britain’s Best on 13 November, but the deadline for entries is just days away – Friday 16 September. So don’t delay!

To enter, go to nhf.info, where you can find full details under “Events” and then “Competitions”.

22

Special report into salon design and fit out

THE LOOK OF LOVE

ALL HAIRDRESSERS AND BARBERS RECOGNISE THE IMPORTANCE OF HAVING A SALON THAT LOOKS BOTH PROFESSIONAL AND INVITING. BUT HOW DO YOU CREATE A BRAND IDENTITY THAT CLIENTS WILL ACTIVELY REMEMBER? SALONFOCUS ASKED TWO MEMBERS, A MULTIPLE CHAIN AND, ON PAGE 26, AN INDEPENDENT SALON, HOW THEY DO IT.

SAM PRIOR IS CO-FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF BARBER SHOP CHAIN MR BARBERS Sam Prior

r Barbers is a fast-growing

M chain. We started out two

years ago with three shops and we now have 13, with my own shop in Cambridge being both the largest, at 580sq ft with six stations, and one of the newest, having only opened its doors in June. We’ve recently opened others in Ipswich and Stowmarket, and we’re always looking for more!

All our salons are independently owned – so they’re not franchises – but they use our licence. That also means we’re very focused on creating a strong brand identity across the chain. We want clients when they walk in to recognise that they’re in a Mr Barbers, and many do say just that.

So, what’s the secret of creating a strong

‘BE PREPARED TO SPEND MONEY, DON’T LEAVE BITS UNDONE, AND FOCUS ON THE DETAILS’

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2016

brand identity and look while still retaining your own individual identity as a salon?

Our shops have a strong “vintage” look and feel to them, which we find people love. It is a mix of vintage and classic – a modern take on traditional barbering, really – as well as having a strong, consistent colour scheme. People come to us, in part, because that look and feel – the whole experience – is so strong.

‘WOW FACTOR’ One of the main things I’ve learned is you’ve got to be prepared to spend the money, and get it all done in one go. If you say ‘I’ll just leave off doing that bit for a few months and see how it goes’, chances are it’ll never get done and your salon will never quite have that finished look. So it is important, if you’re going to do it, to do it properly rather than in dribs and drabs.

It’s going to vary of course but I’d estimate that, for a four-chair town shop, you’re likely to be looking at a budget of around £30,000 to £40,000 (including things like rental deposits and solicitors’ fees). But, within that, it’s also important to think about the cost of things like your stationery, flyers, appointment cards, media and even your online look.

What you’re aiming for is a combination of “wow factor” with a modern, wellequipped shop.

MR BARBERS: TOUCHES LIKE A YELLOW CHOPPER STRIKE A BALANCE BETWEEN THE BRAND AND INDIVIDUAL IDENTITY.

THE OVERALL LOOK MIXES ‘VINTAGE’ WITH A MODERN TWIST.

24

Special report into salon design and fit out

Another lesson I’ve learnt is to strike a balance between the brand and the individual identity of your area or building. For example, in this salon in Cambridge we have a yellow Chopper bicycle on the wall because of the city’s association with cycling. But our shop in Newmarket, which has a strong association of course with horse racing, has jockey silks on the walls. These are small details, but ones that clients will notice and remember.

You also need to work with, and embrace, the shape and feel of the building itself. Our shop in Ely, for example, is quite narrow and so we had to work around that quite carefully. Similarly, our shop in Ipswich is in a space that is quite industrial-looking and so we’ll reflect that in its look, while keeping to the overall brand.

Even though each shop is subtly different in terms of how it looks, you will always know you’re coming into a Mr Barbers because of the grey shop front and the yellow “Mr”. That branding is also repeated inside; for

example, we have Belmont chairs in our brand colours.

Another important element is that we always use oak units for the fit-out to give a consistent look throughout.

Ultimately, clients do notice and value these things.

Part of the reason clients come to us in the first place is because of the brand, and because they recognise and like our brand. So it is really important to get it right.

‘’ EVEN THOUGH EVERY SHOP IS SUBTLY DIFFERENT, YOU WILL ALWAYS KNOW YOU’RE COMING INTO A MR BARBERS

THE BELMONT CHAIRS HAVE THE CHAIN’S BRAND COLOURS.

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2016

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26

Special report into salon design and fit out

HAYLEY GIBSON FORBES IS CO-DIRECTOR OF S.J FORBES IN EGHAM, SURREY Sam Prior

was a former franchisee with RUSH before deciding last year to go it alone with my husband and business partner, Sean McElhill.

And the result was S J Forbes, which opened in July last year.

I

Getting the right design, look and feel for the salon was always very important. The salon theme is really a set of juxtapositions, mixing premium technical elements with what I call “chic minimalism”. There are a lot of clean lines and it’s got a very contemporary theme throughout. Most of all though, we wanted the entire ambience to be welcoming and friendly; somewhere that clients can feel is a complete haven, but also adds a touch of elegance to Egham’s traditional cobbled streets!

As an independent salon, the look and feel of both the interior and exterior are a vitally important part of drawing people in and contribute to the first-class experience they deserve, and expect.

For my initial inspiration, I visited the Alexander McQueen exhibition Savage Beauty at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London last year. That gave me some real jolts of inspiration for the salon décor. One of the main things I love about McQueen’s work was his use of texture and the combination of many different materials used to dramatic effect. I wanted to translate these elements to the salon, so using lots of grey, white and charcoal; neutral colours that would be inviting to a range of people, but creating a sense of natural flow throughout.

CONSISTENCY OF LOOK I also wanted everything in the salon to tell a story, stemming from the same overall idea of a combination of relaxation and theatre, from the smoky, atmospheric tiles at the backwash to the grey snakeskin price lists with copper foil details. Essentially, the design aim was to create a place where our clients could feel they where

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2016

S J FORBES: STRONG BRAND VISION.

Special report into salon design and fit out

27

‘YOUR INTERIOR NEEDS ABSOLUTELY TO REFLECT THE PERSONALITY OF THE SALON’ being transported to another world, but one with a distinctly British feel to it.

Another important element was consistency. It was so important to me that each area of the salon, down to every last square centimetre, showcased our exacting standards and immediately highlighted to our clients they should expect a premium experience where their hair takes centre stage.

The backwash area, for example, is where clients can truly relax. So we wanted to create a calming, dark area – somewhere clients could completely zone out, away from the hustle and bustle of the rest of the salon. To that end, we purposely created this area as its own separate space. It is enclosed within black painted walls featuring exposed slate and muted edge lighting in the ceiling, while three black, matt leather chairs recline to give the impression of a private cinema room.

From the outset we wanted the salon to house a colour room, so this could be a feature both to clients and staff. We installed racks so everything, from the colour itself to the tools and resources, are easy to hand, with clear, colour-co-ordinated labelling and organisation.

For me, another standout design feature of the salon is the exquisite crystal chandelier above the reception desk. This produces a dazzling spectrum of rainbow-coloured lights around the salon, as each droplet reflects the sunlight. It is also a real focal point for passing trade. The reception desk, directly beneath the chandelier, consists of three white gloss rectangles offset against one another, while mismatched lines, along with concealed under-shelf lighting form a stunning style statement within the salon.

MIRRORS AND LIGHTING The contemporary style of the salon is extended to the 12 workstations featuring UV-lit mirrors that rest upon slabs of marvellous mocha-coloured marble, elevated stylishly from the floor by thick sheets of glass.

The lighting consists predominantly of spotlights and panel lighting, depending on the area. The spotlights create a powerful ambience in the backwash area, while we found panel lighting was the best option for technical work, as it eliminates any shadows and provides the perfect balance needed for cutting.

For me, your salon interior needs absolutely to reflect the personality and ethos of your salon. Yes, it has to be functional and work, but you want to be creating an entire atmosphere that is felt as soon as clients enter the space.

Sept/Oct 2016 | salonfocus

28

Special report into salon design and fit out

YOUR DESIGN DOS AND DONT'S WHAT’S THE SECRET TO A GREAT SALON DESIGN? HERE, AND OVERLEAF, WE ASKED THE EXPERTS FOR THEIR TOP TIPS.

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2016

Special report into salon design and fit out

Y

ou may have a clear idea of how you want your salon to look, what you want your clients to see and experience when they step into your salon or barber shop. But how do you make that vision a reality, especially if space and money is tight? We asked salon marketing, design and fit-out specialists, all NHF affiliate members, for their secrets to creating a strong, creating a memorable salon look.

29

Be afraid to be bold with colour If you want to use a strong colour, but don’t want it to be over-powering, consider picking out a couple of feature walls in a different colour and then carry that on through towels and accessories in the same colour.

Put your retail behind your reception All that will happen is that the desk and your receptionist will create a barrier that prevents clients from handling the products, browsing or buying.

Trevor Lingard, commercial manager at salon design and furniture company REM (rem.co.uk)

DO Recognise that stains are inevitable To this end, darker upholstery tends to be more practical for a hardworking hair salon. If you really want a lighter colour, think about fitting clear chair back covers.

DON'T BE AFRAID TO BE BOLD WITH COLOUR.

Danielle Jones, marketing director at Salons Direct (salonsdirect.com)

DO Make your lighting work hard Consider using different light styles to create the right atmosphere. Hang task lights above each section and add some feature pendants above the reception area or wash points.

Think about your clientele It’s vital to think about exactly who you’re trying to target when fitting out your salon. Are they likely to appreciate something flashy and modern, or more subtle and understated?

Think what’s going to be visible Are you going to have colour mixed out of sight or are you going to put it in the spotlight with a colour-bar? Weigh up the pros and cons. You may also want to think about whether you want to use partitions to design a tranquil corner for clients away from the bustle of the salon.

Go with a theme This will ensure a consistent design throughout, whether you’re going for a traditional feel or something more contemporary.

DON’T Cramp your workspace The first styling unit should be a minimum of 600mm from a window or wall to allow the stylist to work comfortably. Second and subsequent units should be 1.2m from the centre to centre. Also consider island styling units to fit more clients into a tight space.

BE CONSISTENT, WHATEVER YOUR LOOK.

Research, research, research Research should be at the heart of everything you do, from checking out what your competitors are doing to shopping around for the best prices.

Sept/Oct 2016 | salonfocus

30

Special report into salon design and fit out

DON’T Overfill the space Although it can be tempting to try and cram as much into your salon as possible, stick to the essentials and allow your business to grow organically. If you overfill your available space, then you run the risk of creating a less relaxing environment for your clients.

Stand still If all your competitors are moving forward, then standing still is a sure-fire way of getting left behind. Constantly look at whether you’re offering the best possible service or if there’s more you could be doing.

Be afraid to be different It’s all too easy to play it safe and err on the side of caution, but you’re not going to really make waves unless you offer something different to your competitors.

Could you offer exclusive products or wow your clientele with state-of-the-art equipment?

Rosie Thomas, of online retailer Living it Up (livingitup.co.uk)

DO Make sure you use all available space Whether you have a small salon or a large luxury spa, making the most of the space is always important. For example, rather than wall mirrors, a standalone double-sided mirror unit will not only make a brilliant feature addition to any salon, but will also free-up wall space.

Make the first impression count Opt for a stunning reception desk and some welcoming waiting sofas to impress your clients. Their wonderful salon experience should then start as soon as they walk through your door.

Make sure your furniture fits Make cardboard cut-outs of your new stations before you purchase them in order to see how much space they will take up. You’ll be surprised at how many more stations you can fit in just by moving things around!

Underestimate the amount of storage you will need To keep your salon tidy and clutter free, you will need to design in shelf space and cabinets to store away all those product bottles, scissors and hair brushes out of sight.

Think you have to stick to one colour We love to mix things up and, as monochrome is so on trend, why not mix black and white furniture? You can also add a monochrome wallpaper to a feature wall to tie it all in.

Forget about trolleys, cutting stools, hair dryer holders and other accessories It is these bits that make the life of a stylist so much easier, and can often be forgotten when thinking about salon furniture.

Zoé Bélisle-Springer, of salon software firm Phorest (phorest.com)

Think signature image (especially if you have a long wall) Even in a small salon space, if you have a full wall, a single, powerful statement image – perhaps an artwork – can be a great, eye-catching selling point, often more so than a number of smaller prints or photos.

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2016

Make sure furniture works together You don’t want a coffee table in your reception area that is a lot lower than the seats of your sofas or chairs. You need to think how different pieces of furniture and going to look, and work, together.

DON’T

DO

STANDALONE MIRRORS CAN BE POWERFUL.

especially to your reception area. If you don’t get much light from the sun, consider adding some natural light lamps.

Maximise natural light An abundance of light (especially natural light) will add a sense of spaciousness,

USE SIGNATURE IMAGES AS A TALKING POINT.

DON’T Over-clutter your reception Rather than breaking up your reception space into multiple minizones – such as reception desk, waiting area and retail – try to join it all up. For example, if there’s room (and even if the space is narrow) a single sofa can sometimes create an easier “journey” for clients passing by each other to reach the desk or to sit down and wait for their treatment or service.

Go too dark If space is tight, a common salon décor trick is: the lighter, the better. This is because a lighter colour can often help to make a space feel more spacious than it is in reality.

Forget about your window display Your salon window display is a functional way to display your retail products or to show passing clients the services you offer. But don’t forget it can also be used to create a tone or mood of what you feel your salon brand is all about, so make sure it has the salon “look” to match the interior.

Tips and Tipping

31

SERVICE CALL THE GOVERNMENT IS LOOKING AT PUTTING IN PLACE A COMPULSORY CODE OF PRACTICE FOR TIPS AND TIPPING, AND NHF MEMBERS ARE NONE TOO HAPPY, AS SALONFOCUS DISCOVERS. OVERLEAF, A MEMBER GIVES HIS VIEW. ack in the spring the Department for Business, Innovation & Skills launched a public consultation around how businesses should in future handle tips and tipping.

B

Its focus was primarily on the restaurant and hotel trade but, of course, tips and tipping are also a fact of life in many hairdressing salons and barber shops.

Much of what the government was proposing was sensible enough: the need, for example, to encourage greater transparency around tips and tipping so customers better know where they stand or whether their bill already contains a service charge.

But one proposal rang alarm bells. In 2009 the then Labour government put in place a voluntary code of practice for tipping. This emphasises, first, the fact it has been illegal since that year for businesses to use tips to top up an employee’s wages to the minimum wage.

It also recommends businesses have proper, formal processes in place for handling and distributing tips and that they display their tipping policy publicly.

They should also ensure employees understand how tipping works in their business, both for their own sake and so they can explain this to any customers who ask, the code suggests.

All fair enough, in principle. But what the government has proposed is the code should now be made a statutory duty, in other words all businesses that accept or use tips will have to follow the code to the letter.

DECLINE IN TIPS As part of submitting evidence to the consultation, the NHF carried out a survey to gauge how members felt about this as a proposal, and to get a feel for how tips and tipping was working for salons in an increasingly cash-strapped and card-based retail environment.

A total of 275 members responded, a high response rate that indicated this is a topic close to many members’ hearts.

It found that, while 80% of the salons polled admitted they had not previously been aware of the code, they were strongly opposed to the idea that it should be made a compulsory, extra administrative burden for salons.

But there was also a sense that tipping could be in decline anyway. Nearly half

(47%) of salons said they had seen a drop in the number of tips being left by clients in recent years or that clients were leaving smaller amounts.

Most blamed a combination of rising prices, customers having got out of the habit of tipping during the recession and the growing popularity of paying by card, where people were generally less likely to add a tip than if they were using cash.

The fact more than half had not seen a decline suggested tipping still remained a popular way to say “thank you” for many clients, said NHF president Agnes Leonard.

But she added: “As an industry that predominantly comprises small and micro businesses, we have deep reservations about adding a layer of compulsory red tape in the form of a statutory code of practice. Salons, yes, need to ensure tips and tipping is transparent and clearly communicated, but imposing heavy-handed rules is not the solution.”

The industry, and the NHF, will be watching with interest to see what the government decides, with an announcement expected to be made later in the autumn.

Sept/Oct 2016 | salonfocus

32

Tips and tipping

PETER LANGDOWN

‘WE INSIST THAT ANY

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2016

TIPS HAVE TO BE IN CASH’ STEVE WARBURTON IS OWNER OF STEPHEN JAMES HAIR SALON IN MORECAMBE, LANCASHIRE. Steve Warburton

We’ve been open since 1983 and Stephen James Hair Salon is a medium-sized salon. We have around 18 staff in total, about 11-12 stylists then receptionists, apprentices, and part-time weekend or evening staff.

We’ve been very, very clear about tips ever since the day we opened. We make it very clear we do not handle any gratuities – zero – through the payroll (in other words tips via cards), because of the tax implications.

We do not take gratuities on the card machine; we keep them completely separate.

So the client, if they want to leave a tip, will give it direct to the stylist. Or they might say, ‘I’d like to give a £1 to the girl who shampooed my hair’ or whatever it might be. Or it might be £2-3 to the person who did the cut.

And it is all in cash, always.

What that also means is it then up to the individual stylist or employee to declare it for tax purposes. In reality, a lot of the junior staff are going to be under the tax threshold anyway, so it probably won’t apply.

CHANGING ASSUMPTIONS Gratuities have, I agree, got smaller.

Since the last recession in 2008/09 things have become tougher and I would say that, certainly for the past five to six years, gratuities have reduced.

People generally have less money to go around these days or simply feel worse off.

Also, whether they’re shopping, at a restaurant or getting their hair done, they are more likely to assume a price for something is all-inclusive and therefore there is less incentive to add a tip.

That does make it hard because some weeks a stylist might get a number of tips, other weeks there will be nothing.

Although we do have a clear policy, it’s not a formal thing written down on paper; it’s verbal. Would I agree with the government changing the current code of practice from being voluntary to being statutory, in other words something people had to follow?

It wouldn’t be a huge extra burden, but at the moment what we do works perfectly well – everyone knows where they stand. Therefore, having a formal code that you have to follow, rather than just something there for good guidance is, I feel, unnecessary.

Facts and figures Percentage of NHF salons that…

80%

Were unaware of the government’s voluntary code of practice

79%

Strongly agree tips should always be passed on to workers

72%

Explain how tipping works to staff during induction sessions

70%

Strongly agree it should be explained to customers and employees how tips are treated.

60%

Say they already have a firm policy on what happens to tips left by clients, although more commonly verbal than written down

£

47%

Report a drop in the number of tips left by clients

7%

Barber shops that say they have a written policy on tips

34

Events

INVEST IN

YOURSELF

THE NHF’S AUTUMN BUSINESS EVENTS PROGRAMME IS NOW OPEN. HERE’S WHAT YOU CAN LOOK FORWARD TO OVER THE COMING MONTHS.

the summer holidays fast fading into the distance, the NHF’s autumn and W ith winter programme of full-day, half-day and evening business events, workshops, demonstrations and seminars is now up and running.

The great news is that, while some of the most popular events are returning, there will also be new and exciting events for salon owners or team members to get their teeth into. See right and turn over to page 36 to get a full run-down of what’s happening where.

Full details and prices can also be found online at nhf.info/events. As a rule of thumb, full-day events run from 10am-4.30pm, short or half-day events run from either 9.30am or 10am to 1pm and evening workshops and demonstrations run from 7pm-9pm.

So, what’s new for the second half of the year? Here, below and right, is what to look out for.

GETTING THE BEST FROM YOUR SCISSORS

Presented by Spencer Dudman, of Spencer Scissors

Scissor education is vital for all who work with hair: knowing what to look out for and how to maintain scissors can save a fortune.

Good scissor practice and maintenance can prevent or lessen musculo-skeletal injuries, such as RSI, and free your creativity.

Topics will include understanding the differences made by blade angles and metal types and how they enhance your creativity; how different handles, grip and posture can help lessen/prevent the effects of RSI; and the whys and hows of daily maintenance to keep your scissors sharper for longer.

• Spencer’s passion and knowledge spans more than 22 years and he is one of the UK’s few “master bladesmiths”.

Expect a highly informative, interactive and fun workshops.

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2016

HOW TO BOOST A FLAGGING COLUMN, MAKE MORE MONEY AND CREATE HAPPIER CLIENTS

Presented by Penny Etheridge, of Radiant Hair Consultancy

This hands-on session will give salon owners and managers the tools help their teams find daily opportunities for boosting their columns and increasing revenue.

Topics will include how to unlock the secrets of how team members can confidently plan and prepare for optimising the client experience and increasing salon appointments.

• Penny is a highly qualified business coach, lecturer and presenter for the hair and beauty industry.

With more than 30 years in the business, she also has long-standing first-hand experience of owning salons.

Events

HOW TO DO EFFECTIVE SALON MARKETING TO ATTRACT NEW CLIENTS AND KEEP REGULARS COMING BACK

Presented by Ryan Fox, hair and beauty salon consultant

Would you like to attract and keep more clients?

Would you like to know how to reach clients with your marketing to increase loyalty and spend?

Building a successful salon brand starts and ends with marketing – but it’s the “touchy-feely” bit in the middle that’s the secret to making it happen. This seminar will show you the practical steps you can take to achieve marketing success, why your team needs to take more responsibility for it and how to come up with a plan you can implement in your salon, whatever stage your business is at.

• Ryan is a hair and beauty salon consultant who specialises in improving salon performance through training and innovation. He has more than 15 years’ industry experience, including six years as Wella’s business education consultant.

Presented by Ryan Fox, hair and beauty salon consultant

SALON START-UP – WHAT YOU NEED TO MAKE IT HAPPEN

Are you thinking of starting your own salon or in the process of setting one up? You’ll be much more successful, more quickly and have less stress if you do everything right from the start.

This seminar will guide you through the steps to bring your ideas to reality. Topics covered will include ensuring you have a viable initial concept, creating a salon business plan, working out your finances, finding a location and suppliers, staffing, management, marketing and tools and technology that can help.

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ONE-DAY EVENTS EMERGENCY FIRST AID AT WORK 12 September - Dundee 12 September - Truro 19 September - Brighton 19 September - Cardiff 03 October - Newcastle upon Tyne 03 October - Bury St Edmunds 10 October - Glasgow 17 October - Birmingham 17 October - Wrexham 31 October - London 07 November - Ipswich HOW TO INCREASE YOUR PROFITS 19 September - Manchester 10 October - Norwich HOW TO DELIVER A GREAT CLIENT EXPERIENCE 26 September - Birmingham 07 November - Nottingham HOW TO GET YOUR TEAM MOTIVATED TO BOOST YOUR TAKINGS 03 October - Birmingham SALON START-UP – WHAT YOU NEED TO MAKE IT HAPPEN 03 October - Gatwick HOW TO DO EFFECTIVE SALON MARKETING TO ATTRACT NEW CLIENTS AND KEEP REGULARS COMING BACK 07 November - York HOW TO BOOST A FLAGGING COLUMN 21 November - Plymouth

EVENING EVENTS BARBER WORKSHOP 19 September - Glasgow 26 September - Neath 07 November - Liverpool 14 November - Milton Keynes

‘RED CARPET’ MAKE-UP WORKSHOP

Presented by Louise Seymour, freelance make-up artist

This event will be suitable for complete beginners, both hairstylists looking to diversify their skills and inexperienced make-up artists wanting to gain more knowledge.

It is a follow-on from the NHF’s previous Bridal Make Up workshop, but will still be suitable for those who didn’t attend that.

Topics will include tips on creating the perfect look for “red carpet” events, including brush/applicator choice, beautiful blended colours, correcting shapes and creating contours, creating “strong powerful” eyes and lips, plus tips on cleaning and sterilising professional equipment. Attendees will either work on each other or will need to bring a model if they are unable to have make-up applied • Louise is a freelance make-up artist who has experience with catwalk, editorial, commercial and television projects, in addition to running her own successful bridal-specialist hair and make-up artistry business.

DOS AND DON’TS OF CHAIR RENTING 26 September - Manchester 14 November - London ARE YOU PREPARED FOR PENSIONS AUTO-ENROLMENT? 03 October - Exeter 10 October - Leicester 21 November - Bedford INTRODUCING BEAUTY INTO YOUR SALON 10 October - Eastleigh CRUCIAL CONVERSATIONS 24 October - London INSIGHT INTO AFRO 07 November - Birmingham GETTING THE BEST FROM YOUR SCISSORS 07 November - Bristol

Sept/Oct 2016 | salonfocus

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Events

SHORT WORKSHOPS/ DEMOS 'RED CARPET’ MAKE-UP 19 September - Bedford 17 October - Huddersfield FOCUS ON HAIR LOSS 10 October - Bangor, Northern Ireland 14 November - Guildford COLOUR WORKSHOP 26 September - Newcastle-upon-Tyne VISIT TO WELLA STUDIOS AND CHRISTMAS MARKET 20 November - Manchester

NATIONAL AND REGIONAL COMPETITIONS 16 September Photographic Stylist of the Year (closing date) 31 October Pride of Scotland, Glasgow 06 November Welsh Awards, Cardiff 13 November Britain’s Best

SCOTLAND THE BRAVE he NHF’s annual Pride of Scotland competition celebrates the very best in Scottish hairdressing, and this year is set to be no exception.

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The competition, also known as the Scottish Open & National hampionships, is this year taking place on Monday 31 October at the Glynhill Hotel in Glasgow.

“Competitions like Pride of Scotland are a great way to showcase talent, especially for young and up-and-coming stylists. A competition like this can also really bring a salon team together and motivate them,” explains West of Scotland regional coordinator Mary McAdam, owner of New Image Hair Studio in Alexandria, West Dunbartonshire.

“Beyond that, it’s also just a really fun, enjoyable day out. Last year the atmosphere was electric, especially when the winners were being announced.

There was a real party atmosphere,” Mary says.

This year there are 12 categories to enter: • Male Fashion Look, On Trend – Cut & Finish (students and trainees) • Male Fashion Look, On Trend – Cut & Finish (open to all) • Male Fashion Total Look – Blow Dry (open to all) • Ladies’ Consumer Fashion Style

(students and trainees) • Ladies’ Mannequin – Freestyle (students and trainees) • Ladies’ Consumer Fashion – Cut & Finish (students and trainees) • Ladies’ Fashion Look, On Trend – Cut & Finish (open to all) • Ladies’ Glamorous Night on the Town (open to all) • Fantasy Total Look (students and trainees) • Beautiful Bride (open to all) • Colour Creation of the Day (open to all) • Photographic Competition (open to all) As well as competitors, spectators will be welcome to come along to cheer on their favourites, with spectator tickets priced at £5.

“I’d urge members to come and join us for what is set to be a hugely enjoyable, entertaining and inspiring day,” says Mary.

Pride of Scotland is proud this year to be sponsored by Denman, Fabdoo Ltd, Yoi Scissors, Hair & Beauty World and Salon Services.

INCREDIBLES WINNERS

BOOKINGS Anyone interested in attending events should contact the NHF team on 01234 831965 or events@nhf. info. Bookings can be made online at nhf.info/events

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2016

Two stylists from Hereford and Rothley in Leicestershire were announced as the lucky winners of this year’s NHF “Incredibles” competition in July.

Lauren Horner, from Peter Prosser Hairdressing in Hereford, won Newcomer of the Year, which celebrates the creativity and talent of first year students.

Yasmin Bush, of E’Lan Hair Design in Rothley, won the Future Generation category, which does the same for second and third year students.

Entrants had to submit a mood board outlining their inspiration for spring/ summer 2016 hair and fashion trends.

The finalists were then invited to an “inspiration day” with the award-winning Darren Bain, senior educator at HOB Academy, in Camden, London, where the winners were announced.

All the finalists had a chance to quiz Darren about his secrets for success in the industry, and had the honour of meeting

four-times British Hairdresser of the Year Akin Konizi.

NHF president Agnes Leonard said: “Nurturing and celebrating up-and-coming young stylists is the life blood of success in our industry, and this year’s NHF Incredibles day was a huge success.”

Set your salon apart

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REFLECTED

GLORY

MIRROR, MIRROR ON THE WALL… BEING CREATIVE AND INNOVATIVE WITH YOUR SALONS MIRRORS CAN SHOW OFF YOUR SALON IN A WHOLE NEW LIGHT.

WHAT ARE WE TALKING ABOUT? Salon mirrors, or more specifically how to make salon mirrors work as more than just a functional element of your salon design and décor.

TELL ME MORE. We all know mirrors are a vital working tool of any salon, to help stylists and clients see what’s what. But they can be much more than that. Especially if you only have a small space to play with, you can use “feature” mirrors to, in effect, trick the eye to make the salon feel that much bigger and brighter.

BUT MY WALL SPACE IS ALREADY LIMITED. Why not, in that case, consider investing in a standalone double-sided mirror? This will not only have the potential to be an eyecatching talking point of the salon, it may mean you need fewer wall mirrors, and so will help you to free wall space elsewhere.

ANY OTHER TIPS? Absolutely. Installing a floor length mirror behind a piece of furniture can help to create a feeling of extra depth and, again, make the space feel larger than it actually is. But, of course, even if the mirror is resting on the floor, it needs to be properly attached to the wall with brackets.

Combining mirrors with lighting can also be powerful, as it can help to maximise and reflect the light. Don’t forget, too, locating a mirror opposite a window can help to reflect and disperse your natural light in much the same way, so helping to create an airier, lighter ambience.

ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD KNOW? Beyond function and reflection, also think about how you can use mirrors to complement your salon brand and the client experience you are trying to create.

Whether your style is modern minimalism, indulgent opulence, or bespoke “vintage”, mirrors (and the right frames) can be important “signature” design elements of your look.

Sept/Oct 2016 | salonfocus

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Q&A

Health and safety

LEGAL LIFELINE Members with a business, legal or employment question can call the Legal Lifeline on 01234 831965 or email enquiries@nhf.info.

Employment-related support is available 24/7 and advice on commercial issues 9am-5pm Monday-Friday.

YOUR

QUESTIONS

NHF MEMBERS WERE IN AUGUST STRUGGLING WITH QUESTIONS AROUND RESTRICTIVE COVENANTS, HANDLING TIPS AND REST BREAKS.

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My senior stylist has left and joined miles and for at least six months might be a nearby salon. I am worried clients a better standard clause. may find out where she has moved to and follow her, so costing me business. Is there My salon is going through a anything I can do? difficult time. I have three questions regarding tips and tipping. First, can I pay Generally, an employer cannot protect my junior staff less than the National themselves from competition from Minimum Wage but make up any an ex-employee. To seek to do so is what is shortfall with tips received from clients? known legally as “restraint of trade”.

Second, am I required to give the full One thing you can do is to write a value of all tips received to my workers? “non-compete” clause in the employee’s And, third, how should they be taxed? contract of employment, also known as a restrictive covenant.

On the first question, absolutely However, to get around this question not. Since 2009, it has been the law of restraint of trade, the clause has to that employers cannot take account of be worded and constructed carefully. tips when calculating an employee’s First, you have to show it has been put in minimum wage pay, whether this is tips place to protect your legitimate business paid directly to the employee or collected interests (in this case your income from by the employer and then distributed to your clients) rather than just to stifle staff. Tips have to be on top of the National competition generally.

Minimum Wage.

Second, it has to be worded in such a You potentially have more flexibility way so as not to be deemed by a court to on the second question. No, there is be unfair to the person who is setting up in no requirement on employers under competition. In other words, it can protect National Minimum Wage rules to ensure your interests, but not in a way considered workers receive the entire value of any unreasonable. If it is too broad or too tips paid by the customers or clients harsh – for example preventing the stylist they serve. However, you may want to from setting up in business in too large a consider the effect on staff morale and neighbouring geographical area or for too motivation of doing this. long a period of time – then it will simply The third question is more complicated. be unenforceable and the other stylist Tips can be administered in a number of could appeal against it. ways. They can be retained by the salon, For example, most restrictive covenants they can be kept by the person will prevent a stylist from setting up receiving the tip or they within half a mile of their former can be pooled and employer for six months after they have shared out between left the business. However, as highlighted the staff. in News in this edition, the NHF has Tips should not be recently made the case that within five

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Q

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seen as a cash-in-hand bonus to wages: they are taxable. Therefore, if the employer collects the tips he or she is responsible for the tax and National Insurance issues. If the tip goes directly to the employee, he or she should declare them for tax purposes.

Where the tips are pooled (in what is known as a tronc) and distributed by a member of staff (but independently of the employer) then these tips are not subject to National Insurance but are still liable for tax.

Q

One of my employees works eighthour shifts in the salon and she has asked if she can opt out of her rest breaks so she can leave a bit earlier. Am I allowed to let her do that?

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Under the Working Time Regulations 1998, adult workers are entitled to a minimum rest break of 20 minutes during any working day that is longer than six hours. Workers cannot opt out of this rest break entitlement as individuals; the only way to do so is under a collective or workforce agreement.

So, in short, no she can’t, unless it is something agreed with, and by, the other employees in the salon as part of a collective agreement.

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