TH E ES SENTIAL MAGA ZI N E FO R SALO N OWN ERS
salonfocus
WINTER 2020
LET’S TALK A cracking consultation is key to keeping clients coming back
P25: STRESS BUSTING Protect your staff – and clients – from anxiety and depression
Cover_Winter 2019_Salon Focus 1
P28: CYBER SECURITY Stay off the hackers’ hitlist with these handy tips and tricks
P33: MARKETING Sending your business into the stratosphere with a great strategy
P40: DISABILITY Crying out for quality staff? Disabled people can cut it too
11/12/2019 10:09
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11/12/2019 11:30
WI NTER 2020
contents
THE CUT 5
28
Hello and welcome Happy New Year to all, says president Ian Egerton, and he gives his tips for an effective client consultation
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The 11 things you need to know this issue
25
From the campaigns for 2020 to the first vegan barbershop, AR in beauty and childcare in salons
THE BUSINESS 20 Consultations
25 Stress busting COV STORER Y
A cracking consultation is key to keeping clients coming back. Read our expert tips for exceptional customer communication
40
How should a business owner manage stress levels in the workplace?
28 Cyber security Phishing... Malware... Ransomware... We decode cyber hacking so you don’t have to
THE INSPIRATION 48 Mood board
3
Is it Instagrammable? The NHBF Photographic Image of the Year 2019
50 What’s trending New products and the latest market trends
33 Marketing A great strategy can help send your business into the stratosphere
36 Salon success What does it take to not just survive but thrive? Three salon owners with 150 years’ experience between them reflect on their careers
52 How to... Start a social media advertising campaign
THE NHBF 54 Round-up Key news and messages
55 Events 40 Disability Disabled people can cut it in the workplace just like anyone else
Who were the winners at the NHBF Business Awards 2019?
THE END
45 Pricing Setting the right price for your services can be a balancing act
58 24 hours with... Winner of last year’s Glow Up series, Ellis Atlantis
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HELLO A ND W ELCOME T HE CU T
The magazine of the National Hair & Beauty Federation
NHBF PRESIDENT
THE NHBF
IAN EGERTON
One Abbey Court Fraser Road Priory Business Park Bedford MK44 3WH 01234 831965 nhf.info sfenquiries@salonfocus.co.uk
THE RULES OF ENGAGEMENT WITH CLIENTS EVOLVE SO RAPIDLY AND IT’S GOOD TO HAVE A STRATEGY FOR KEEPING ON TOP OF IT
"
CHIEF EXECUTIVE Hilary Hall
DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Victoria Priestley victoria.priestley@nhf.info 01234 834386
EDITORIAL Editor Emma Godfrey emma@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk 020 7324 2751 Content sub-editor James Hundleby james@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk
DESIGN Lead designer Carrie Bremner Picture researcher Charlie Hedges
ADVERTISING advertising@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk 020 7880 6230
PRODUCTION Production director Jane Easterman Account director Will Hurrell will.hurrell@redactive.co.uk 020 7880 6248
PRINTER Manson Group, St Albans
COVER Carrie Bremner © The NHBF 2020 All views expressed in salonfocus are not necessarily those of the the NHBF. All efforts have been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information published in salonfocus. However, the publisher accepts no responsibility for any inaccuracies or errors and omissions in the information produced in this publication. No information contained in this publication may be used or reproduced without the prior permission of the NHBF. Recycle your magazine’s plastic wrap. Check your local LDPE facilities to find out how.
appy new year to you all. Hope you’ve had a profitable December and feel ready to tackle a new year and a new decade. As we start 2020, setting targets and goals can’t be far from your minds. I know that, for many, this can feel quite overwhelming. Personally, I set aside time to look at the past year and establish what could be improved. Then I work on each element, one bit at a time. If there is something that I’m struggling with, then I seek help – my goal is to fix the issue and move on. I’m sure the importance of an effective client consultation isn’t one of your issues, but we take a look at this in our cover feature this edition (page 20). The rules of engagement with clients evolve so rapidly and it’s good to have a strategy for keeping on top of it. My tips are to create three types of consultations plus an exit strategy to give your team the tools for every scenario. The first is for a new client, a second for existing clients, and the third is for colour/ skincare clients. Each consultation should be designed around today’s
H
visit, a desired outcome and solving any issues the client has with their hair or skin. The exit strategy should begin three-quarters of the way through the visit, planting the seed for the next visit, home care advice, what we’ll do next time and rebooking. By the time the client leaves, they are fully invested in your stylist/therapist and looking forward to returning to the salon. Happy client, happy staff, happy salon owner! Talking of happy… We’re happy at the NHBF – another year means lots of big plans – a name change (from NHF/NBF to NHBF), the salonfocus events in Birmingham and London in April and September respectively, which will see the magazine going on the road, and opportunities to campaign even more for you and your businesses. Don’t forget our latest industry statistics have been released too. Check out page 50 for more. We have an exciting year ahead!
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TH E CU T CAM CA M PA IG IGNN S
THE
The 11 things you need to know this issue...
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CA MPAI GNS T HE CU T
THE NHBF IS FIGHTING FOR YOU What matters most to you and your business? Is it the lie of the land post-Brexit? Maybe it’s VAT or business rates? Or is it making your salon or barbershop more eco-friendly? You’ve told us and we’ve created an action plan for 2020; we will be campaigning at the highest levels on your behalf. These are the top 12 campaigns we will be fighting for…
1 2 3 4
Fairer tax, VAT and National Insurance More gradual increases in the National Living Wage (NLW) Lower business rates and healthy high streets
Fairness and clear guidelines on employment and self-employment
"
CHIEF EXECUTIVE HILARY HALL
IMAGE: ALAMY
WE’VE BEEN CAMPAIGNING HARD FOR OUR MEMBERS ON MATTERS YOU TOLD US MOST AFFECT YOUR BUSINESS
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Affordable, high-quality apprenticeship schemes
Action against rogue operators who don’t pay tax and exploit workers
7 8
Health and safety for your clients, staff and business
A positive outcome for the hair and beauty industry post-Brexit
9 10 11 12
Client safety and safeguarding your reputation Good mental health in the industry
An equal playing field for everyone Eco-friendly products and services for the industry.
7
Go to nhf.info/campaigns for more.
TOP FIVE
TOP INDUSTRY-RELATED
THINGS NHBF MEMBERS WORRY ABOUT
TOPICS OF MOST INTEREST TO MEMBERS
56%
76.3%
Wage costs
National Minimum Wage and NLW
50%
55%
Tax and VAT
Tax and VAT
41.2%
42.4%
Increasing profits
Black economy
39.5%
40%
Recruiting staff
Raising industry standards
37.9%
39%
Employment issues
Apprenticeships
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TH E CU T D EM E N T IA
HAIRDRESSING / BARBERS / BEAUTY
Consider and adapt How dementia friendly is your salon?
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8
1
Keep noise to an absolute minimum
Adjust your noise levels: turn off music or only play calming tunes, turn your phones down, or arrange for a quiet room to carry out your service. If hair dryers are too loud for your client and make them agitated or nervous, consider cutting their hair dry rather than wet.
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Think about visual perception of those with dementia Ensure you have clear signage to key facilities, including the exit and toilets. Mirrors are important in a salon but can cause confusion. Consider covering them up if this will help. And black mats by the front door can be seen as a hole in the floor. Being aware of how a client might perceive their surroundings is important.
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Use dementia-friendly language
Speak calmly, using short, simple sentences. Maintain eye contact.
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Have dementia-friendly services
Clear A4-size pictures of basic styles, looks or treatments can help people with communication difficulties choose what they want. Suggest your clients with dementia come in on your quieter days so the environment is calmer. Avoid speaking to them over their shoulder in the mirror as they may get confused as to where you are.
5
Put systems in place to make payment easier
Handling money or remembering PINs can be difficult, so help your clients with dementia count out their change if needed or ensure you have a contactless payment option. Consider setting up an account that they or their family can pay off every two to three months.
2
WHY NOT BECOM BECOME A DEMENTIA FRIEND? IEND?
To better support your clients who are affected by dementia, you and your colleagues can become Dementia Friends. The Alzheimer’s Society’s Dementia Friends is changing the way people think, act and talk about dementia, reducing stigma and creating a dementiafriendly society. Becoming a Dementia Friend takes just 10 minutes and is completely free! Visit dementiafriends.org.uk/ dforganisations and use your code: salon123 – rally the troops at your next team meeting. IMAGE: ISTOCK
isiting the local salon or barbershop provides rich opportunities for socialising, enhancing identity and improving self-confidence. However, many aspects of the hair and beauty experience can make it challenging for the two-thirds of people affected by dementia living in the community. The Alzheimer’s Society suggests five ways to make your business more dementia friendly.
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Call now new 2019 brochure New models new finishes Expert salon design
www.albertewandesign.com T.016 70 73 89 79 studio@albertewandesign.com
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HA IR TOUR I SM T HE CU T
BARBERS
Exeter prison has one of the highestt suicide rates of all UK prisons. Tom Chapman, founder of The Lions Barber Collective, has attempted to reduce these rates with a prison barber scheme.
REACHING OUT What’s happening in Exeter?
How does it work?
The guys were already cutting one They charge 50p per haircut and all the another’s hair – a few had barber skills money raised comes to our charity. It was – but there was no dedicated space, so important to charge something because it was in cells or on the landings. And it the prison wanted it to be a transaction, was causing problems because it was ad like a real job, and charging gives the hoc. Some would do it in exchange for service credibility. The prisoners feel cigarettes or £10, then for others it was good about it because the money comes free. When the staff to us and they feel they’re tearoom was relocated, making a contribution of value. There were more than a room became free and the prison decided Why is it needed? to use it to set up a Mental health problems are barbershop and asked common in the outside world, me to get involved. but they’re a huge problem suicides in the UK in 2018 in prison. There is no escape What next? – 75% of those were male and that’s tough. This helps them talk about it and open The prison had up to fellow prisoners about already been given what’s going on in their head. four barbershop chairs, four mirrors and a few basics. I did a shout-out for more donations then took them in. How has it been received? The prisoners were delighted. We also Really well. The first day the barbers set them up with some online awareness was open, they were there all day. They training – our BarberTalk Lite videos (see did 45 haircuts! It gives them a focus box) which aim to help barbers recognise and a purpose. those that may be struggling with their mental health and offers guidance on What’s the future hold? how to talk about it. Six prisoners have We only began at the end of August 2019 done it so far. so it’s early days. But we hope that it can
6500
be replicated in other prisons. And, for the guys themselves, it could be a great opportunity once they’re out. They leave with practical barbering skills (though no formal qualification) and an understanding and awareness of mental health issues. Chris from another charity, Andy’s Man Club, is working to find accommodation for the men on their release and get funding for NVQs so they can pursue training as a barber if they want.
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WHAT’S BARBERTALK LITE? BarberTalk Lite online training is available through The Lions Barber Collective and is a short 20-minute video that is free to anyone. It encourages discussion about mental health and suggests ways to talk about it in a supportive and constructive way. Tom believes the barbers can be a safe space for men to talk about their mental health and, by enabling conversations, help prevent suicide.
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BEAUTY
4
AR HITS THE BEAUTY WORLD
YouTube and Instagram are adding augmented reality (AR) to their beauty videos. Brands will produce content to give potential customers the option to visualise products before buying them. What is AR? AR uses technology to superimpose information – sounds, images and text – on the world we see.
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How will this work? Consumers watching AR-enabled videos will be able to click on the ‘try’ button. Using their smartphone camera, they will be able to test the product while still watching the video. A ‘buy’ button will let them complete their purchase of it.
What does this development represent? A significant change in how brands are engaging with consumers.
St Students from Manchester U University have genetically m modified a strain of E. coli ba bacteria to produce kinder, m more environmentally fr friendly hair dyes.
WHAT’S HOT, WHAT’S NOT The popularity of the Brazilian wax is declining. Demand for the intimate hair removal technique peaked in 2005, but it has continued to slow ever since.
5
The NHF became the NHF/NBF in October 2018, when the addition of beauty was made, and now it’s rebranded to the NHBF – the National Hair & Beauty Federation.
of the Year celebrations all taking place. Go to our Instagram Mood Board pages (48 to 49) to see the winning photos and page 54 for the Welsh and Business Awards winners.
2 3
4
It has been a really busy awards season for the NHBF with the Welsh Awards, the Business Awards and the Photographic Image
They’ve been around for a while, but as Take That’s Howard Donald takes to Instagram to reveal his ‘Mr Porcupine’ look, it seems acupuncture facials could become a firm favourite for the older man.
How could AR be used by salons and shops? Check to see if any of the brands you stock are on board with AR. Your clients can try different shades of lipstick, for example, without removing their own. Perhaps one day the opportunity will be there for hair colourants too?
It’s all go at the NHBF. Here’s just a brief round-up.
The NHBF industry statistics have been released. Some of these can be found on page 50.
The perm is b back – and tal. Inf it’s gone digital. Infrared heat and less-damaging chemicals are used to create looser waves and natural volume.
What are the benefits? This feature on Instagram gives users the option to share videos of themselves trialling the product, creating more brand exposure.
Sharp and short
1
6
As we look back to this year’s award winners, we need to look forward to 2020 and the upcoming events and dates for your diary, including the salonfocus2020 live events in Birmingham and London and the webinars scheduled for this year too. It’s page 54 for more on all of these.
Beards are as popular as ever, but move over bigger beards, the more tightly cropped and shorter beard is making its mark.
IMAGES: SHUTTERSTOCK
TH E CU T AR
Good news for colourists… It seems the trend for ombré hair, which doesn’t need frequent touch-ups, is being ditched in favour of the more natural-looking balayage.
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44%
of British men make an effort to maintain their appearance
KEEPING UP APPEARANCES? NOT REALLY!
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The global men’s grooming trend is failing to make an impact on British men, according to new research by analyst Kantar. Only 44% of British men make an effort to maintain their appearance, considerably lower than the global average of 57%. A fifth make no effort at all when it comes to their looks, while globally
7
that figure drops to 11%. Looking young is not on the radar for many British men as less than a quarter (23%) say they are bothered about a youthful look – a noticeable difference to the figures for China (58%) and Italy (50%). British men are using 14% fewer beauty products weekly than the global average.
BUSINESS
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Beauty on the eg go o for commuters rs and jetsetters Hair and beauty salons will be opening up in train stations and airports for time-poor travellers, as founder and NHBF board member Steph Stevenson joins forces with hair and beauty experts Marie Claire to create ‘Marie Claire Jetstyle’.
Look after your team With winter well and truly here and darker nights making journeys to and from work a vulnerable time for staff, Spirit Hair Company have taken extra safety precautions with their trainees from all three of their High Wycombe, Wallingford and Farnham Common salons and issued them all with personal alarms. As co-owner Lauren Turner explains: ‘For a small investment, it’s a great way to look after your team.’
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Where? The first salon will open at London’s King’s Cross St Pancras station, with similar salons scheduled to open in Heathrow Airport’s terminals two, three and five. When? Valentine’s Day (14 February) for the King’s Cross branch and by April for Heathrow. What services will be on offer? 45-minute manicure, pedicure and blow-dry treatments. Opening times? 7.30am to 10pm and airport locations will be open 365 days a year. Future plans? Another salon is set to open in Waterloo and there are talks about launches in London Bridge, New Street and Victoria too. Ultimately… The company is aiming to open salons in 215 airport hubs and 19 UK railway stations. When you look at the statistics of passenger numbers through the UK’s stations – Waterloo is ranked the busiest in the UK with more than 94 million passengers in 2017-18 – the move makes good business sense. Have you considered opening a salon in a different location like a train station or airport?
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CHIL DR EN T HE CU T
10 HAIRDRESSING
CUT, COLOUR AND CRÈCHE Jo Bevilacqua launched a hair and beauty salon with on-site childcare after she realised new mums struggled to find childfree time to make appointments. We speak to her to find out more. t was when Jo Bevilacqua was pregnant with her second child in June 2011 that she came up with the idea of a crèche in a salon. In 2012, she opened the doors to Serenity Loves in Peterborough. Jo’s background was in childcare and her £60k budget had to cover refurbishments, the lease, equipment and staff – both salon practitioners and a childcare professional. Jo says she
I
TOP TIPS
TO FOLLOW IN JO’S FOOTSTEPS If you’re going to offer childcare, it can’t be half-hearted. Your reputation is at risk if you do not implement it correctly and safely. You need to have a full-time member of staff to work in the crèche. It alone needs many policies and procedures. Be strict with staff – we have high expectations, which is appropriate given their job. For many salons, it will be easier to ensure they are family friendly rather than offering a crèche. Lots of our customers came to us after they felt their children were unwelcome at other salons.
underestimated how hard it would be underesti undere dh grips with running a salon. to get to g thought I’d un understand the ‘I thoug than I did. It’s industry a lot quicker uic industry a tough in y to conquer and I needed to learn n a lot – fast!’ she says. salon started Thee salo Th art with four stylists, a beauty therapist erap and childcare practitioner, and Jo running front of ner, a house, and accounts. use, marketing mar Now, nearly eight years later, there Now are 13 staff including a manager. At the start, the salon charged £2.99 per hour per child with free childcare during school holidays. But now there is no charge. ‘We realised that a mum with three children wasn’t going to pay all that extra to have her highlights done,’ explains Jo. ‘So we offer it as a free service and take the hit from our bottom line.’ Not that it’s done the business any harm – it now turns over £400k per year. Only about 10% of clientele now use the crèche, says Jo. It acts as a pull to new mums and they tend to stay once their children go to school. The salon doesn’t need to be registered with Ofsted because the parents are always on the premises, but the childcare service is taken very seriously. The staff are all DBS checked and the service adheres to Ofsted ratio levels. And there are cameras in the room so parents can watch their infants at all times. The salon focuses on other services to appeal to families such as mum/ dad and daughter tutorials to show parents how to style their children’s hair. Jo says that the salon often attracts mum first because of the crèche, then the children get their hair cut and finally, dad too.
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TH E CU T V EG A N IS M
11 1
Luke and PJ met in 2016 while working together at a barbershop in Exeter. At that point, PJ had been vegan for 12 years and Luke had been vegetarian for four years. They quickly realised how their approach to life was similar.
600,000
2
18
It was PJ’s involvement in the punk scene that led him to discover many aspects of counterculture, including animal rights. For Luke, his move to a meat-free lifestyle was inspired by his travels as well as watching the documentary, Earthlings, narrated by Joaquin Phoenix.
The number of vegans quadrupled between 2014 and 2018 from 150,000 to 600,000
BARBERS
3
The Roots Foundation came about as they came to realise that they shared a vision of a new kind of barbershop and social space: sustainable, ethically conscious, community-orientated and most importantly, a place that was welcoming to everyone. The timing also felt right.
4
Their shared beliefs meant that having The Roots Foundation run as a fully vegan business was the logical thing to do. Over two years on, as the UK’s first vegan barbershop, they now see changes in the industry and the addition of vegan products.
5
The challenges at the beginning were the same as any other start-up. When it came to finding the right product suppliers, they say that they probably had to do more research, because they were passionate about supporting independent businesses who shared their ethics and values.
GOING VEGAN The Roots Foundation in Exeter was the UK’s first vegan barbershop when it opened its doors in 2017. Here are the top nine things to know about The Roots Foundation, its beginnings and its co-owners Luke Burgon and PJ Shepherd.
6 7
Not only are all their products vegan, they are also all handmade, entirely natural with ethically sourced ingredients.
Their clients are from all walks of life, which is exactly how they planned it. Some do ask about veganism. The most common questions are about what it means to be a vegan barbershop and what components of hair products are not vegan.
8
They say that the greater awareness of veganism in society is hugely positive. It drives businesses to cater for vegan practices and animal welfare – that is a vital step towards protecting the planet.
9
Tip for others thinking of going vegan? Go for it! Be sure to research thoroughly. And their advice if you want to make changes is to follow your heart. If it’s something you truly care about, people will recognise your passion and admire you for it.
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TH E BU SI N E S S C O N S U LTAT IO N S
S ’ T E L 20
A cracking consultation is key to keeping clients coming back. Read our expert tips for exceptional customer communication. WORDS BY GEORGINA WINTERSGILL
A
n outstanding consultation is an essential part of being a first-class hairdresser, barber or beauty therapist. You could be technically brilliant, but if you don’t listen to what your clients want, chances are they’ll go elsewhere. Angela Bartlett, of Hidden Beauty mystery shopping service, has conducted the mystery shops for the NHBF Business Awards for the past three years. She says: ‘A consultation builds rapport. That talking time, finding out what they want from a treatment, tailoring it to suit them and their needs, makes them feel really looked after and valued. A good consultation can make you stand out from the crowd.’
DON’T forget your regulars Carry out a consultation for all clients at the start of each appointment – even your regulars. Melissa Timperley, owner of Melissa Timperley Salon in Manchester, and winner of Best Client Experience at the 2019 NHBF Business Awards, says: ‘We allow 15 minutes’ consultation for every client. We find that most clients don’t want the same thing every time. Just tweaking a few little details keeps people noticing their hair and complimenting them on it.’
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CONS ULTATIONS T HE BU SI NESS
DO build rapport The consultation is the perfect opportunity to build a relationship with your client. Josette Lesser, director of training company The Communication Experts, says: ‘Greet them with a smile. Make eye contact and give them your full attention, nodding to show that you’re listening. Use their name, but when it feels natural. And check what they prefer to be called.’
97%
OF HAIRDRESSERS SAID THEY ALWAYS GIVE A CONSULTATION, BUT ONLY 7% OF CLIENTS THOUGHT THEY’D HAD ONE
DON’T be a space-invader Respect a client’s personal space. Simon Shaw is a hairdressing salon consultant and chairperson for the Fellowship of British Hairdressing. He says: ‘I shake hands when I meet a client, but I don’t touch their hair until I’ve asked permission. When you take them to the position, you’re in a place where it’s normal to touch their hair, but I’d still ask. It’s just polite.’
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ACCORDING TO RESEARCH BY L’ORÉAL
DO look professional It will give clients confidence, and help them to trust you, if your body language reflects your expertise. ‘Stand up straight and avoid fidgeting. This will make you look more authoritative and knowledgeable. You must also be approachable, which is why eye contact is key,’ Josette advises.
DON’T ask closed questions Open questions encourage longer and more detailed responses than closed questions, which invite yes or no answers. Simon says: ‘Start with open questions, like “Tell me how you feel about your hair.” As the client talks,
WE ALWAYS USE THE WORD “CONSULTATION”. WE’D SAY, “COME AND TAKE A SEAT AND WE’LL HAVE OUR CONSULTATION”, SO CLIENTS ARE AWARE THAT THAT’S WHAT THEY’RE GETTING
"
MELISSA TIMPERLEY, OWNER OF MELISSA TIMPERLEY SALON IN MANCHESTER
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TH E BU SI N E S S C O N S U LTAT IO N S
PRICING THE BU SI NESS
use probing questions to dig a bit deeper. So, if they say their hair’s always flat, you might say, “What have you tried in the past to combat that?”’
DO really listen Listen to the client’s ideas before offering advice or suggestions. Ask questions during natural pauses, but never interrupt. ‘Generally, the reason for a bad consultation is that the stylist/ therapist doesn’t listen. They jump in with suggestions and don’t spot the signals of what the client wants. But clients are at the centre of what we do. They’re who we’re trying to please,’ says Simon.
HANNAH KLEWPATINOND
TRUST IS KEY 22
Hannah Klewpatinond opened HK Hair in 2017. She explains why consultations are a key part of her service. ‘The only time I’ve found consultations difficult is when clients have unrealistic expectations. One new client had been box-dyeing her hair black for years and had tried to lift it to blonde at home. It had gone stripy and was in very poor condition. Her ideal end result was a cool blonde all over. ‘I did a two-part consultation. In the first one we discussed her goals. I carried out a skin test, took cuttings of her hair for testing and did an intense conditioning treatment. In the second one, we discussed potential colour and her hair journey. With some patience and a few appointments, she’ll get to the colour she wants without compromising her hair condition. She’s delighted with the shine and lustre and now has complete trust in me.’
DON’T ignore body language Pay attention to your client’s non-verbal cues as well as what they say. Simon says: ‘A really good consultation is a bit like being a detective – you’re looking for clues and discovering that client. During the consultation, if you suggest something and you see a client’s eyes close slightly, or you see a very slight wince, you’re picking up that they don’t like that suggestion. Ask further questions to clarify.’
A REALLY GOOD CONSULTATION IS A BIT LIKE BEING A DETECTIVE – YOU’RE LOOKING FOR CLUES AND DISCOVERING THAT CLIENT
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SIMON SHAW , CHAIRPERSON FOR THE FELLOWSHIP OF BRITISH HAIRDRESSING
DON’T pressure sell A hard sell could destroy your client’s trust. But use the consultation to talk about maintaining their look, plus any concerns, and products/services that could help. Hannah Klewpatinond, owner of HK Hair in Milton Keynes, says: ‘Our add-ons are always high. But for us, it’s just about looking at the person in front of us and what products or advice they need. The products then sell themselves.’
DO check you’ve understood You can do the best graduated bob in the world, but if it’s shorter than the client expected, they won’t be happy. As Josette advises: ‘By asking questions and repeating what the client has said back to them, you can avoid miscommunication. Using images is helpful. And when you talk to someone about how much you’re thinking of cutting, show them so they can see what you’re talking about.’
DON’T neglect staff training Role play can help staff develop their skills, while a checklist can help them remember the core elements. ‘We do training every six weeks. We don’t have set questions, but we have a specialist approach, our “three Cs”, which is on cut, colour and condition. All the training means the girls are so good at asking open questions, they can get information they need out of even the most timid clients,’ says Melissa.
DON’T forget to test New clients coming in for colour must have an allergy alert test at least 48 hours before their appointment, and no more than five days before. Returning clients will need an allergy alert test if they haven’t had one for 12 months, if they’ve had a tattoo or black henna tattoo, or if you’ve changed the colour brand or product.
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CONS ULTATIONS T HE BU SI NESS
IT’S PARTICULARLY IMPORTANT TO IDENTIFY ANY MEDICAL ISSUES, SUCH AS ALLERGIES, IN ADVANCE, TO AVOID HARMING YOUR CLIENT
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MARTIN CROWTHER IS A HEALTH AND SAFETY EXPERT FOR ELLIS WHITTAM
DO keep a record In beauty salons (and in hair salons, when doing colour), you must take written notes for the client’s safety. Keeping accurate records will also help to protect you in the event of an incident. Martin Crowther is a health and safety expert for Ellis Whittam, which provides advice to the NHBF. He says: ‘It’s important to identify any medical issues, such as allergies, in advance, to avoid harming your client. If an incident results in a prosecution, records of consultations and tests would be important evidence, as they’d demonstrate that you’d taken the necessary steps to identify allergies, sensitivities or other medical conditions before starting treatments.’
DO your best Ultimately, whether you’ve allowed for five, 10 or 30 minutes for the consultation part of a client’s service, it’s important to remember that this time is crucial. You’re run off your feet, a member of staff has called in sick, the phone is ringing, but… the client and their experience is king and that consultation, which nails the style they were hoping for, will take your business from ‘great’ to ‘outstanding’.
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NEED MORE INFO? Visit nhf.info/client-consultation to read the NHBF’s blog on the importance of client consultations in your salon or barbershop. Download the NHBF’s Client experience guide at nhf.info/ client-experience-guide (free to Members). Download the NHBF’s Allergy alert guide at nhf.info/allergy-guide (free to Members).
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STRES S BUSTING THE BU SI NESS
S
oaring stress levels can lead to a high staff turnover and an unstable environment for staff. More than 15.4 million working days are lost to stress, anxiety and depression, costing the economy an estimated £5.2bn.
‘For a salon owner, being aware of these signs of stress may help with early intervention – prevention is better than cure,’ says Shelley Line, CEO and founder of HOBO Recruitment. Clients can also pick up on whether their hairdresser is stressed or not, so it’s important to keep stress levels to a
How should a business owner manage stress levels in their workplace? Georgina Fuller asks how to rescue days lost to staff anxiety and depression.
minimum, adds Lexi Madden, owner of Salon 28 in Lichfield. ‘People come to a salon for some time-out and escapism,’ she notes. ‘A happy stylist equals a happy client, so you need to provide an open environment for staff to share their experiences and feel supported to help them perform at their best.’
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ALL TOO MUCH? W IN TE R 22019 020 SALONFOCUS | AUTUMN
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TH E BU SI N E S S ST R E S S B U ST IN G
Stress hot spots
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Shelley says recognising stress and treating it sensitively is the first step to a happy, healthy workforce: ‘Unhealthy stress levels can lead to poor productivity, human error, increased absence, and an increase in accidents.’ Stress could also be down to personal factors, such as finances or relationships. ‘Tackling stress in the workplace requires a manager to look at the job as a whole and implement a holistic approach, Shelley says. ‘There may be “hot spots” that can be targeted and identified through a systematic risk assessment. The aim is to find out the potential causes of stress in the workplace and the likelihood of it causing ill health to your team.’
It is vital that managers accept that people with mental health issues are protected from discrimination and entitled to reasonable adjustments to their working lives. ‘Mental health and stress can be a difficult topic to approach. Training should be provided to those members of staff who demonstrate empathy, compassion and are nonjudgemental when dealing with others,’ says Shelley. She also suggests making the environment for talking to staff about stress comfortable and private, and giving them your full attention. ‘Mental health first aid programmes train first responders, who are equipped to listen or signpost employees to help where needed,’ says Shelley. ‘Another part of the solution is stress awareness training for all employees.’
YOU NEED TO PROVIDE AN OPEN ENVIRONMENT FOR STAFF TO SHARE THEIR EXPERIENCES AND FEEL SUPPORTED TO HELP THEM PERFORM
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Health and safety
SPOTTING THE SIGNS OF STRESS
No one size fits all when it comes to stress – you should make an individual stress risk
People who are stressed might appear to be: Constantly worried or anxious Indecisive, snappy or restless Biting their nails or picking their skin Unable to concentrate or focus Eating too much or too little Smoking or drinking alcohol more than usual Frequently tearful or emotional.
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STRES S BUSTING THE BU SI NESS
assessment for the employee concerned. This will inevitably contain personal or medical information and should not be published like other generic risk assessments. Look at the pregnancy risk assessments you’ve carried out for a good example of a similar approach. Laura Chalkey, head of team for the NHBF legal helpline, says that salon and barbershop owners must remember that an employee who claims to be suffering from work-related stress may be covered by the Equality Act 2010, and able to bring a claim for discrimination and harassment if they believe that they have been treated unfairly as a result. ‘An individual will be classed as disabled under the act if they can show that they have a physical or mental impairment, the impairment has adverse effects that are substantial and/ or long-term (such as they have lasted, or are likely to last, for at least 12 months) and that these side effects have an adverse
effect on normal day-to-day activities,’ Laura explains. ‘While there is no specific law relating to workplace stress, employers have a duty to ensure the health, safety and welfare of their staff. This includes identifying all workplace stressors and conducting risk assessments to eliminate or control the risks from stress.’
IMAGES: GETTY
Health and safety In Godmanchester, Luke Ingle, director of Studio 88, says that some level of stress is inevitable. ‘You can’t avoid stress completely. It’s something that you need to manage effectively in order to reduce it to a level you can comfortably cope with. ‘A daily planner and lists are the key to keeping my stress levels low these days. They help me organise the importance of certain jobs over others and keep me focused on the tasks at hand.’ Some people can also expect their stylists to act as ad hoc therapists, says Luke. ‘Stylists don’t just cut hair – for many clients, you are their opportunity to chat, vent, moan, laugh and sometimes even cry. By understanding more about stress, you can learn to spot signs that your clients are struggling and in turn be that voice that gives them the support they desperately need.’ Lexi from Salon 28 agrees: ‘If you support staff, you know that they should, in turn, support their clients. Clients are people just like us, and people go where their needs are being met. Let’s be honest, it’s not just amazing, Instagrammable hair clients want these days, is it? It’s free therapy with each service.’
FIND OUT THE POTENTIAL CAUSES OF STRESS IN THE WORKPLACE AND THE LIKELIHOOD OF IT CAUSING ILL HEALTH TO YOUR TEAM
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HOW THE NHBF CAN HELP We have just introduced a new stress risk assessment into the hair and beauty health and safety toolkits. The risk assessment helps salon owners or managers identify the causes of stress, whether work- or non-workrelated, and what they could do to help their employee. Order your toolkit in the NHBF shop at nhf.info/H&S-kit
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TH E BU SI N E S S CYB E R S E C U R IT Y
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More than half of NHBF Members surveyed have fallen victim to a cyber-hack, so what can be done to protect your business?
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CYBER S ECURITY T HE BU SI NESS
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o one misses using pen and paper to run a business, but a computer is fraught with danger – far more than taking down appointments in a big black book ever was. It has never been easier for client appointments to be booked and managed. Payments can be processed swiftly, and contact details can be accessed in a flash thanks to highly efficient salon software packages. But the National Cyber Security Centre (NCSC) warns that one in three UK businesses will face a fraudulent attack. Worse still, a recent NHBF survey revealed that 56% of Members have experienced cyber fraud, while 52% suffered a financial loss.
‘Attacks can result in loss of data, which for a salon or barbershop could include customer and appointment details and financial transactions that cyber criminals could sell on. The financial consequences and impact on a business’s reputation could be devastating.’
Be prepared Despite the risk, salons and barbershops often feel a data breach ‘won’t happen to them’. But
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IMAGES: GETTY
Gone phishing The most common cyber attack is phishing. Andy Heathershaw, chief technology officer at Premier Software, says: ‘Phishing emails are used to trick customers into handing over their login details for sites such as Facebook and eBay. ‘Emails that claim to have an unpaid invoice are also a popular way to spread viruses by tricking users into opening the attachment.’ Other attacks include the use of ransomware, which freezes a computer’s software and demands money to release it (see ‘I was a victim of ransomware’, right). Along with damaging a salon’s reputation, business owners face a hefty fine from the Information Commissioner’s Office if a data breach occurs. Jen M, the NCSC’s economy and social engagement officer, says: ‘All businesses are at risk from cyber attacks, and the impact can be catastrophic.
‘I WAS A VICTIM OF RANSOMWARE’ Sophie Webster, partner-manager at Simon Webster Hair in Brighton, found her salon under attack. Sophie, who uses iSalon booking software, says: ‘The computer screen went blank, then a message popped up saying the content had been frozen and, to avoid it being deleted or corrupted, we’d need to pay to release it.’ Sophie called iSalon, who confirmed it was a cyber attack. ‘Luckily, we back up our data each evening and have excellent malware protection.’ Sophie, who owns SWH with
husband Simon, also uses a tech specialist who, with iSalon’s IT team, got things up and running again. But it took three days. Sophie says: ‘They wiped the whole system and rebuilt our database from our backups. ‘Until then, we had to run the schedule from memory; bookings, colour notes, everything. ‘Afterwards we notified everyone of what had happened. Luckily we’d been well-prepared. Our antivirus software prevented any data being compromised.’ Although experts couldn’t pinpoint how the hacker had got in, Sophie’s tech specialist suspects it was via a website innocently visited by a team member. Sophie says: ‘Now no personal browsing is allowed on the salon computer. We also have a Wi-Fi network solely for the team, another for clients and a separate system for card payments and bookings.’
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TH E BU SI N E S S CYB E R S E C U R IT Y
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the statistics prove otherwise. The best way to stay safe is to be prepared. All salon/shop computers should be protected with antivirus software to help prevent, detect and remove harmful malware. Don’t forget devices that are also used at home or on the move too, and make sure everything is password protected, with different passwords for different accounts. Software backups and updates should be carried out regularly and staff kept briefed on what to do if the worst happens. The NCSC recommends that owners draw up security policies for staff, explaining acceptable uses of systems. User privileges should be limited and staff activity should be monitored, with social media sites banned. This may not be practical for those who want to use these sites to market their business, so use two-step identification and make sure passwords are different from all others – a hacker should never be able to unlock all your accounts just by stealing one password.
Staying calm So what are the signs you have fallen victim to a cyber attack? You may find yourself locked out of your computer systems, clients may start receiving strange emails from your salon’s account, and internet searches could get redirected to malicious websites. Messages might pop up demanding ransom money. If this happens, do not click on, or do anything the programme tells you to. Fraudsters build in flashing lights and loud alarms which are designed to stop you thinking clearly. Close the programme and log off your computer then contact your software provider or an IT specialist for help. Alert clients about what has happened. Watertight preparation and a swift response should reduce the risk of any serious data breaches. Jen says: ‘We would always recommend not panicking, and businesses should report incidents immediately to law enforcement. The more who report, the more likely it is that criminals will be arrested, charged and convicted.’
OF MEMBERS HAVE EXPERIENCED CYBER FRAUD
HERE TO HELP The NHBF is determined to help Members stay safe from cyber crime. We offer a free guide to choosing salon software, a cyber security blog and a 14-point checklist to help prevent a hack at nhf.info/cyber-threats Last year we celebrated Safer Internet Day and are busy devising a template cyber security policy for Members. We also work in partnership with Coversure Insurance Services, which offers specialist insurance cover to protect against financial loss from cyber attacks. The NCSC offers more information and a Small business guide: response & recovery at bit.ly/NCSC-business-guide
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M A RK ETING THE BU SI NESS
The New Year is the perfect time to review the past 12 months and make plans to fuel your success in 2020. Salonfocus looks at how a great marketing strategy can help send your business into the stratosphere.
MAKE YOUR E MARK
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very business owner knows that marketing is crucial to your success. But it is not enough to run a promotion here, a flurry of social posts there – good marketing means a joined-up approach, and taking time to put together a strategy can make all the difference.
What is a marketing strategy? ‘A marketing strategy is your big-picture approach,’ explains Alice Kirby, director of Lockhart Meyer Salon Marketing.
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TH E B USI N ES S M A R KE T IN G
‘Ask yourself who is your ideal client for this location and these services. Build up a picture of that client. What’s important to them? ‘If you are appealing to professional women in the city, you will need different marketing messages than for mums in a small town, for example. And by marketing messages, I’m talking not just about the words you use, but what impression the look of the salon, website, branding and social media conveys. Your brand positioning is what place your brand occupies in the minds of your clients and how your offering is different to your competitors. ‘Once you know who you are going to appeal to, you can think about the tactics of how, what messages are going to appeal, and where you are going to reach them.’
Step by step
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Alice sets out steps to developing a marketing plan (see lockhart-meyer.co.uk/salonmarketing): Audit: Think about where the business is now. Consider finances, competitors, clients, and your capabilities, looking for opportunities and possible problems.
IT’S IMPORTANT TO SEE MARKETING AS AN INVESTMENT NOT AN EXPENSE TO CUT BACK ON
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Goals: Focus on where you want your business to be and set SMART objectives: Specific, Meaningful, Achievable, Realistic and Time-limited. Approach: How do you get there? Define your approach to branding, services, pricing and promotions, keeping in mind your target audience. Implement: What tools will you use? Write a day-to-day implementation plan detailing marketing activities, tools and channels; from social media, to events and offers. Evaluate: Decide what key measures you’re going to monitor and put systems in place to do so. It’s the only way to know if your marketing is working.
Deciding what to spend on marketing will be driven by how fast you want to grow and whether your business is well established or starting out, but a good rule of thumb is between 6% and 10% of your turnover. But don’t overspend, warns ‘the marketing magician’ Stefan Drew: ‘The biggest marketing mistake a salon can make is to invest too much money. There are simple actions that cost nothing, so start with them, and maybe two or three ideas that cost money.’ ‘For example, claim the salon’s Google My Business online profile as this enables a business to get to the top of Google without spending any money.’
IMAGES: ISTOCK
What to spend?
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TOP TIPS
FOR MARKETING MAGIC Don’t neglect Facebook. Lots of salons focus on Instagram, but the biggest social platform by far is still Facebook. Try Facebook ads (see page 52 for how to do this), and start by targeting your existing followers – the vast majority of whom won’t be seeing your non-paid posts in their newsfeeds.
Form local partnerships. Reach out to other noncompetitor businesses locally which have the same target audience and work together, promoting each other and collaborating on offers.
A marathon not a sprint ‘It’s important to see marketing as an investment not an expense to cut back on,’ adds Alice. ‘If you get one new loyal client, the money they spend over a year might cover the cost of a campaign. ‘I always say if you stopped marketing today, you’d notice the results in six months – and it’s the same if you start today. There is no silver bullet. You’ve got to be consistent, otherwise you’re wasting money and effort. Marketing is a marathon not a sprint.’ ‘Check in once a month for an hour. Compare with how you did during the same month last year and look at each campaign, what’s working and what isn’t. Do a big review once a year.’
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Reaping the rewards Keep a marketing calendar. Be ready for big dates such as Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day well ahead of time. Download the NHBF social media marketing calendar at nhf.info/ marketing-calendar
Think multi-channel marketing. Include social media, your website, your e-newsletter, in salon promotions, local partnerships, and even make use of text message reminders to share offers. Check out the NHBF’s salon marketing guide at nhf.info/marketing-guide
One business which has seen its marketing strategy pay off is Voodou, winner of ‘Marketing Campaign of the Year’ at HJ’s British Hairdressing Business Awards in 2019. ‘Marketing has always been at the centre of our business strategy,’ explains Sally Verdin, marketing and project manager at Voodou. ‘We analyse our campaigns closely and constantly adapt and evolve. We are not scared of embracing new technologies to reach our customers. Our most successful campaigns are integrated across all our marketing channels.’ She adds: ‘Our approach is to keep it simple and consistent. It is also important to get the team on board before you launch a new initiative.’ From the big picture, to the nuts and bolts, the implementation to the review, developing and then sticking to a good strategy will ensure your marketing is consistent, focused and responsive. Get it right and the potential impact is huge, as Sally explains: ‘It is the reason we have remained in business over the past 40 years.’
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TH E BU SI N E S S S A LO N S U C C E S S
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ON TOP What does it take to stay the course and not just survive, but thrive? We speak to three salon owners to ďŹ nd out more.
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S A LON S UCCES S T HE BU SI NESS
CAREER LONGEVITY
LOOKING BACK With nearly 150 years of industry experience between them, David Barron, Daren Terry and Tony Winder reflect on their careers. David with one of his regular 1970s popstar clients, Alvin Stardust.
Where it all began DB: My dad was a men’s hairdresser and when I left school at 14, I got a job as an apprentice and went to the London College of Fashion before training at Vidal Sassoon. I then worked as a men’s hairdresser on a transatlantic cruise liner before opening my first salon in 1969. DT: When I was 15, I worked in a hairdressers two nights a week for eight months to get work experience, before becoming an apprentice. I set up my own salon in 1989 and then Kate, my wife, joined me as a business partner. TW: When I was 15, I went for a job as a painter and decorator, but I was told I wasn’t tall enough. I ended up working as an apprentice at a gentlemen’s hairdressers. In 1969, I met my first wife and we opened Antony and Patricia. I now run the business with my second wife and fellow director Karina.
DAVID BARRON (DB) Salon: Barron, Muswell Hill, London Years in the industry: 55
DAREN TERRY (DT) Salon: Lotus Styling, Bognor Regis, Sussex Years in the industry: 36
TW: When I started in 1962, men were still having short back and sides. Then in 1964 four lads from Liverpool hit the big time and some barbers went out of business because they did not adapt to the longer hairstyles – the usual two-week visit became every six months.
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From then to now DB: Today, colour, treatments and top-quality products play a major role in a salon’s success, but the main emphasis is on client experience. Hairdressers must communicate well and offer excellent customer service. DT: Health and safety has come a long way. You didn’t have hydraulic chairs, lumbar support and rubber neck basins 30 years ago.
Looking back
Salon: Antony and Patricia, Rawtenstall, Lancashire Years in the industry: 57
IMAGE: GETTY
TONY WINDER (TW)
DB: In the mid 1960s, it was all about the cut. Vidal Sassoon turned women’s hairdressing into an artform. DT: When I started, mousse had just been invented. Everyone was saying it was going to change the industry. I remember the salon where I did my work experience smelling of perm lotion.
WHY HAVE YOU BEEN NHBF MEMBERS FOR ALL THESE YEARS? Our three salon owners said: Value for money Advice on legal rights, legislation and employment law Useful resources
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TH E BU SI N E S S S A LO N S U C C E S S Daren and his wife Kate selling poppies for the Royal British Legion.
Tony's salon's 50th y celebrations ce e o birthday raised £4500 for three good causes.
Christmas tree of GHD stylers went viral. I’m the creative and Kate looks after the finances – you can’t do one without the other. TW: It’s important to remember that the client pays the wages. Staff training is a top priority and covers customer interaction, as well as technical skills.
Memorable moments TW: There are better salaries and staff sta packages these days, and more training opportunities too. TOP TIPS
FOR STAYING THE COURSE
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‘Focus on your team and teach by example. Encourage people to take pride in what they are doing. Make sure you do the small things too.’ DAVID BARRON
‘Don’t be afraid of making mistakes. We’ve had failures and successes along the way. When you’ve tasted failure, success is that much sweeter.’ DAREN TERRY
‘Not neglecting the administration and understanding legislation are just as important as your technical skills as a hairdresser. Don’t ignore this side of the business.’
Testing times DB: Recruiting the right people can be difficult as hairdressing is sometimes viewed as an unimportant profession. It is a worthwhile job with incredible opportunities. It’s important to get the message out. It can play a major role in the enhancement of people’s lives. DT: Legislation is one of the biggest challenges. For instance, you need to think about the legal requirements of taking on apprenticeships. TW: The biggest challenge has been the change in legislation for small businesses. I employ my staff, so we are VAT registered and incur extra costs. This is an added financial burden.
Staying power DB: I put my success down to continuously learning and being passionate about making people look and feel good. There is nothing more satisfying than knowing you’ve done your best and made someone feel great. DT: We work hard to make sure the salon stands out. I regularly change our shop window’s display – they’re either funny, charitable or strike a chord with what’s going on politically. Our
DB: Winning awards for both hairdressing and photography – this includes the British Hairdresser of the Year for my photovision concept in 2000. DT: Winning a world record for cutting hair for 26 hours non-stop. We had clients coming day and night and used it to raise money for charity. TW: Opening a children’s salon with a sensory room. Alongside my hairdressing career, I was a magistrate and a county councillor with responsibility for children in care. I saw there was a need for a child-friendly salon and now clients travel long distances to have their children’s hair cut in a welcoming environment.
The future DB: I will continue to promote the important role that hairdressing plays in our society by helping trainees to realise the difference they can make. They can help clients to feel good about themselves and improve their wellbeing. DT: It would be great if one of the team could take over the day-to-day management of the salon. I currently take one day off every fortnight. TW: I am planning for retirement while ensuring the business carries on progressing and serving clients for another 50 years.
TONY WINDER
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TH E BU SI N E S S D IS A B IL IT Y
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LEAVING BEHIND tylist Lisa Andrews was born with radial dysplasia, which causes deformity in her hands. As a child, her boneless left thumb was removed and replaced with her index finger, but she has still had a successful career – at Marcel Wave in Sheffield, and then as a freelance stylist. She still recalls the nerves of her interview at Marcel Wave: ‘I definitely didn’t mention it,’ she said. ‘I didn’t hide the fact I only had four fingers on my left hand, but I didn’t want to draw attention to it. I’ve always had to work harder to prove myself.’ Salons and barbershops are crying out for more qualified staff, so why not fill those vacancies with someone who is disabled? Lisa was one of the millions who worry that employers will simply not look beyond their impairment. Disabled people have to apply for 60% more jobs than the non-disabled before they are successful.
Kept in the dark But the law, in the shape of the Equality Act 2010, outlaws job discrimination based on disability.
What are the dos and don’ts of hiring people with disabilities? Peter Crush cuts through the confusion to explore why disabled people can cut it in the workplace just like anyone else.
While some employers have outright bias, it’s more likely the case that they simply don’t know about the dos and don’ts of hiring disabled people, with a staggering 95% of small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) in the dark about legal obligations when hiring disabled people. ‘Employers should not treat anyone with a disability less favourably,’ says Laura Chalkley, head of team for the NHBF legal helpline. ‘If you have
concerns regarding a candidate or existing staff member with a disability, advice should be taken with regard to how to best manage this.’
Is it permissible? Confusion can arise, Laura concedes, if an obvious impairment can trigger doubt if an interviewee can skilfully cut hair or carry out a treatment. Consideration can be given to occupational requirements a
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DIS A BILITY T HE BU SI NESS
FAST FACTS
More than
14 M (or one in five) people have a disability
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16% of these are working-age adults
IMAGES: GETTY
X2 candidate simply can’t complete. However, any potential limitations disclosed by a candidate should be explored to see what reasonable adjustments can be put in place to support them in their role. ‘Any hiring decision needs to be fair and objective and avoid any conscious or unconscious prejudice on the grounds of the candidate having a disability,’ says Laura. ‘If a disability is made a point of,
and then candidates are rejected, they could have grounds for making a discrimination claim.’
Unreasonable adjustments? Once a job is offered, employers must accommodate reasonable adjustments: ramps, or longer breaks between haircuts if someone needs them. The phrase ‘reasonable adjustment’ has long struck fear
Disabled people are twice as likely to be unemployed as non-disabled people
£75 Full-time disabled workers earn 12.6% (or £75 a week) less than non-disabled workers
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TH E BU SI N ES S DIS AB IL IT Y
into employers, although SMEs can apply for Access to Work funding to help. According to James Christopher, founder of James Christopher Hairdressing in Midsomer Norton, which employs wheelchair user Mitchell Chalmers, most changes need not be significant. Through his own fundraising, including a donation from the Hair & Beauty Charity, ‘Mitchell got himself a chair that enables him to stand up to do his cutting,’ says James. ‘All we’ve had to do is make small adjustments. Mitchell keeps to the ground floor. We’ve also put in
SALONS AND BARBERSHOPS ARE CRYING OUT FOR MORE QUALIFIED STAFF, SO WHY NOT FILL THOSE VACANCIES WITH SOMEONE WHO IS DISABLED?
"
Disability in the future Only 17% of all disabilities are congenital, so it’s highly likely employers will already have staff who may go on to develop a disability. So being disabled-aware is critical – especially as they may have to deal with getting people who were long-term absent back into the workplace. Also, most disability is hidden – only 8% of all disabled people are in wheelchairs. So there really is, as Laura says, ‘no excuse for treating anyone with a disability any differently’.
ramps. He fits in perfectly – having him here is very motivational.’
Stop assuming
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ANDREW HORNER
MIRROR MIRROR In September, Hft – the charity that supports people with learning disabilities live more independent lives – opened Mirror Mirror, a salon in Bradford. ‘Andrew Collinge fundraised to equip the salon, which we opened after feedback from people we help said hairdressing was a skill they’d like to learn,’ says divisional director Andrew Horner. Although the salon isn’t open to the public, the aim is to train up those interested in gaining a hairdressing qualification – hopefully by bringing Bradford College on board. So far, six people are doing one day’s learning a week, and the aim is to get them into employment. Andrew Horner, who leads on supported employment opportunities, says: ‘This project demonstrates people’s skills over a period of time, which should help allay these fears.’ He adds: ‘The challenge people always face is demonstrating ability rather than overcoming any disability, and we hope projects like ours go some way to proving this.’
Andrew Collinge works with 80 to 100 trainees a year at training salons in Liverpool and Birkenhead, some with conditions ranging from autism to ADHD. With a disabled sister, he has always been extremely conscious of disability and has recently supported an initiative from charity Hft (see Mirror mirror, left). ‘We ensure people who can work in this profession have the opportunity they deserve,’ he says. ‘We wouldn’t put people through two years’ training if we didn’t think they could master the practical skills and the rigour of the qualification. Employers should understand that those with the qualification can cut it – literally!’
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PRICING THE BU SI NESS
KNOW YOUR VALUE Setting the right price for your services can be a balancing act. And could clients setting their own prices really overturn traditional pricing? Helen Bird finds out.
H
ow can you be sure your price is right? When firming up a pricing strategy for your services, it can be easy to let preconceptions get in the way, says Simon Harris, founder of MySalonManager. ‘We get a bit bogged down with prices we have always charged, what the competition is charging and what our staff think we should charge,’ he explains. ‘The danger is you end up forgetting it is the client who is choosing the services, and that price is a barrier for some clients.’ According to Valerie Delforge, international business strategist consultant, it’s less about price than value. ‘You base this decision on the overall experience and the concept you have created,’ she explains. ‘For example, high-end prices require high-end details to the customer journey. Are you offering champagne or a head massage to every customer?’ Of course, ‘value’ must also translate into cash. There are four elements which you should base your prices on, says Simon, who is speaking at this year’s salonfocus2020 (see page 46).
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TH E BU SI N E S S P R IC IN G
They are: Your monthly fixed overheads Your interior environment and style Its location Your percentage of retained clients. ‘Your charge rate per hour must give you a comfortable profit margin after paying wages, stock and fixed overheads,’ he adds. ‘All your prices should be as near that desired hourly rate as possible. Then add on a cost for products.’
TOP TIPS
FOR RAISING PRICES 46
1 2 3 4 5
Raising prices yearly and at the same time of year is a good rule of thumb.
A small increment each year (2.5% to 3%) is advisable over a larger increase (10% to 15%) every five years.
Valerie adds: ‘As long as you have finalised your budget, pricing will be worked out on that. You must cover £1 per minute, otherwise you are not generating enough money to cover your overheads.’
Do your homework Research is key to gauging whether your prices are right, says Shaz Nawaz, managing director at AA Accountants. ‘Never base your prices on being the cheapest or by charging somewhere in between your competitors. That is the worst way to price.’ It comes down to being clear on your unique selling proposition, he adds. ‘It’s about having something unique that people are willing to pay a premium for.’ Finding out what your target market thinks is also crucial. ‘Focus groups are really good – having six to 12 people with a mix of backgrounds and ages to test what they would be willing to pay,’ says Shaz.
Increase successfully
FOCUS ON DELIVERING MORE VALUE BY FIGURING OUT WHAT YOUR CUSTOMERS WANT, AND THEN YOU CAN CHARGE MORE AS A DIRECT RESULT
"
SEE YOU THERE You can learn more about pricing and other key aspects of business at salonfocus2020. Monday 27 April 2020 – Birmingham Monday 21 September 2020 – London Find out more and book your place at nhf.info/salonfocus-2020
If you need to raise your prices, it’s a good idea to identify your most popular treatments or services. Simon suggests using your salon software to find out which have the highest rebooking rate and raising their prices more than the less
Price increases should be at least in line with inflation but not simply to cover the salon’s rising costs.
Raise prices selectively rather than across the board – judge by the popularity of the treatment or service. Give clients four to six weeks’ written notice of an increase.
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PRICING THE BU SI NESS
IMAGES: GETTY / ALAMY
popular services. But Valerie points out: ‘Your “hero” treatment – the one that brings the new clients in – doesn’t have to move too much as it’s appealing to your target market. As long as you know the profit of that treatment, then leave it at that for as long as possible.’ Shaz also advises against ‘punishing’ customers with price hikes to cover for the fact that you might be inefficient. ‘Focus on delivering more value by figuring out what your customers want, and then you can charge more as a direct result,’ he adds.
The new approaches Challenging traditional fee systems in hairdressing in particular are approaches that aim to take the prejudice out of pricing.
In March, Strictly dancer Karen Hauer was denied service at a barbershop because she was a woman. The NHBF says this is wrong – the services you offer must be available to everyone at the same price, regardless of gender. But barbershops don’t have to offer services to women they don’t offer to men, for example hair colouring. Casey Coleman runs Chair Salons – ‘Wales’ first gender-neutral salon’. ‘We base haircuts on above or below the ear; we base blow-dries on above or below the jaw, but prices also alter if hair is extremely thick or extremely fine,’ he explains. ‘We’ve been criticised heavily for it by other salons,’ Casey adds. ‘It’s funny because they are hell-bent on charging a woman more and a man less regardless of the hair length.’
Gender-neutral price lists make it clear to clients that prices are the same for men and women and vary only because of the time taken, the products used and the skills and experience of the team member. Meanwhile, another approach is putting price in the hands of the client. Open Barbers in London uses a ‘pay what you can afford’ system, co-founder Greygory Vass explains. The salon’s sliding scale prices range from £2 to £50 for up to an hourlong appointment, and from £10 to £50 for up to 90 minutes. ‘Many of our clients are people excluded from or discriminated against in mainstream society for not conforming to gender (or other) stereotypes,’ says Greygory. ‘Our payment system creates an organic, inter-community subsidising system where those who can pay more are encouraged to while those who can’t simply pay what they’re able to.’ Although not profit-driven, the salon consistently makes enough to cover all business costs comfortably. Could this approach, which Shaz describes as ‘bold and brave’, alongside Casey’s genderless model, see more client-driven pricing emerging? ‘Generally people are fair and decent and will pay more than we think if given the choice. And if you do a fantastic job, they’re going to pay extra,’ adds Shaz. It looks like wherever you decide to set your prices, the key to success is to deliver on what you’re promising.
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USEFUL RESOURCES For more information about pricing and profits, the following NHBF blogs might be useful: Grow your salon or barbershop profits and business – see nhf.info/right-prices Prices, retails and profits in your salon or barbershop – see nhf.info/prices Business finances, prices, wages and profits guide – see nhf.info/profits-guide
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TH E I N SPI R AT IONN MMOOD O OD BOARD OARD
WINNERS
IS IT INSTA GRAM MABLE?
@karenthomsonkam Lossiemouth
@jimshawhair Billericay
48 4
It was a glittering event, but who were the winners and ďŹ nalists of the NHBF Photographic Image of the Year 2019? We take a look. Have you created a style that's a bit different? Something you're particularly proud of and want to shout about? Then post a picture to Instagram with the hashtag #salonfocus and your shot could end up on these pages. WINNERS
@jimshawhair Billericay
@karenthomsonkam Lossiemouth
WINNERS
@karenthomsonkam Lossiemouth
@jimshawhair Billericay
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MMOODD BOARD THE HE I NSPI NSP RAT I O N
WINNERS
@yucelthebarber Cambridge
@karenthomsonkam Lossiemouth
FINALISTS
FINALISTS
@andrewsmithhairstylist Fareham
@blunt.am Newcastle
@melissatimp Manchester
@davidvaultbaker Claygate
@jimshawhair Billericay
@davidvaultbaker Claygate
@melissatimp Manchester
@andrewsmithhairstylist Fareham
@davidvaultbaker Claygate
@roystenblytheofďŹ cial Wolverhampton
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TH E I N SPI R AT ION W H AT ' S T R E N D IN G
FASHIONABLE OR A FAUX UX PAS PAS? S? Whether you embrace them or buck them, we take a look at the latest trends.
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BARBERS
CURTAINS COMEBACK
HAIR
IMAGES: GETTY / SHUTTERSTOCK
GOT IT COVERED Slick it back, paint it smarten it up and on, sm plait it down… It seems seem the latest ed. From the wet catwa catw lk shows had almost every style cover l plaits to the pigtai ered weath vibe and the loose and look v messy buns, sharp ed streak paintneon the and ons chign c chic And even the looks complimented the edgy and artistic. saw a revival. fame ‘90s and ‘80s the of comb hair le humb
INDUSTRY STATS
WHAT DO THEY SAY? The NHBF annual statistics on the UK’s hairdressing, barbering and beauty businesses have been released. Here’s a snapshot of just a few…
They are the youngest and possibly most ethnically diverse generation so far, but it seems our tech savvy Generation Z or Gen Zers are bucking against the male grooming trend and opting for a ‘Joey from Friends’ haircut. These ‘eBoys’ (‘e’ standing for ‘electronic’) are taking the messy, ear-length, centre-parted (and slightly greasy) look and branding it their own.
43,000 250,000 There are over 43,000 hair and beauty businesses in the UK (a rise of over 1000 since last year).
Around 250,000 people work in hairdressing, barbering and beauty (excluding salon owners/managers).
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W HAT'S TRENDING THE I NSPI RAT I O N MAN UP
in things male and make-up are set to go big All th male 2020. 2020 Companies are launching their first ts are makemake up lines and gentlemen’s face boxse trend, hitting hittin the high street. In recognition of the in its up makemale ed includ has men’s men’ mag GQ doesn’t Groom Groo ing Awards for the first time. And it stop there; male groom groo ing is being taken up a gear with campaigns encou enco raging men to get their ure. m first manic
MAKE-UP
THE EYES HAVE IT Make-up for spring is all about the colour. Bold eyes will have it this season, using lots of colour, shine and sparkle. Evening looks will be inspired by 1970s glam rock with the metallic smokey eye on trend. Don’t like sparkle? Then reds, yellows and blues are a must. ‘Go bold or go home’ is the make-up mantra as we start the new year! NAILS
BOLD AND BEAUTIFUL Eyes might be going bold, but so too are nails – bright colours, animal prints, geometric shapes… And we’re not talking separate styling. If this is a step too far for some, partial outlines or negativespace designs, double-corner French manicures and almond-shaped tips with deep reds and purples are also making their mark.
HAD ANY THOUGHTS ABOUT WHAT YOU’VE READ? TELL US WHAT YOU THINK ON OUR SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORMS
MALE GROOMING MAL
To find out more, go to nhf.info/industry-statistics
45%
5 yrs
The growth in the number of hairdressing, barbering and beauty businesses over the past five years has been a massive 45%.
Beauty salons are least likely to survive after five years (60%), while hair salons are most likely to survive after five years (77%).
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LEAPING AHEAD For a package that covers all your accounting, financial control and tax needs, turn to Salon Business or Salon Business Plus. Two new accountancy packages have been launched by Salonfrog, specialist salon accountants. Salon Business (£349+VAT per month) and Salon Business Plus (£399+VAT per month) have been added to existing offerings
from the company. With Salon Business, salon owners can expect book-keeping, advice when needed, payroll and contractor processing, MTD VAT reporting, management accounts, year-end accounts and corporation tax return, Companies House compliance reporting and business tax advice. It also includes your Xero subscription and the company acting as your HMRC agent. Salon Business Plus also includes profit extraction strategy and tax returns. To sign up or find out more, go to salonfrog.com
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VEGAN ELEVATION Want to create bespoke blonde techniques? OSMO®’s Blonde Elevation could be the answer. Vegan-friendly lightening is here. OSMO® has announced the launch of its Blonde Elevation range. It allows colourists to create a bespoke blonde colour service, speedily and with great results. It’s perfect for all blondes, whether platinum, multi-tonal blondes, or working with foils, freehand open-air techniques, or balayage. To request OSMO® for your salon, contact your local wholesalers or visit osmo.uk.com
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TH E I N SPI R AT ION HOW TO...
1
PROMOTE WHAT? For your first
advertising campaign, the most helpful initial step is to identify one specific service or product that you want to promote. Rather than advertising your business generally, having one clear goal will allow you to get an idea of how effective the campaign is going to be in real terms, irrespective of analytics (which we’ll come to later).
FACEBOOK? TWITTER? INSTAGRAM? Another early
decision is which social media network(s) to use. Big brands with dedicated social media support staff will use a range of channels, but for smaller businesses with less time available, it’s important to identify which networks have the biggest reach among your target client base (see How many?, right). Be realistic about who your clients are
IMAGE: ISTOCK
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START A SOCIAL MEDIA 2 ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN Social media is a minefield at the best of times, but what if you want to invest in some online advertising? Where do you start and what should you do? We look at the decisions you need to make and the options available.
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HOW TO... THE I NSPI RAT I O N
and find the network most suited to them. As an example, Instagram users tend to be younger, Twitter is more popular among men, while Facebook is used by all ages and genders.
3
DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. Put
some organic, self-created posts on various networks – perhaps offering a distinct service or special deal – so you can get an idea of the reaction for each network. It may be that there’s an active local Facebook community that could bring you more business than throwing money at Twitter.
4
WHAT TYPE OF ADVERTISING?
Look at the social networks you’re interested in to see what types of advert they offer, and which will best fit your business. While Facebook has an almost bewildering array of ad
options – which is great if you know what you’re doing – Instagram (which is owned by Facebook) has a similar but slimmed down selection.
5
HOW MANY? We look at the total number of active users viewing advertising per month on the three main social media platforms.
UNDERSTAND HOW EACH NETWORK’S ADVERTS ARE COSTED. Generally there are
40M
three ways you can pay for ads: cost per click (where a viewer clicks through to your website); cost per conversion (where a viewer does a specific action, such as making a purchase or a booking) or cost per impression (where a viewer simply sees your ad). If you want targeted results, costs per click or conversion will be more helpful. If you want to generally spread the message of your salon, cost per impression is fine. But again, even this is most effective only when you know which social network is the best fit for your business.
6
24M ■ Male 46% ■ Female 54%
13.6M
■ Male 60% ■ Female 40%
CREATE YOUR ADVERT. Once you
have the broad goals and method of your campaign in mind, it’s time to design your advert. Keep it in the spirit and feel of your salon. Some of the most effective paid advertising campaigns grow out of organic posts that businesses have already made on social media, so don’t feel you have to go in a new direction just because you’re now paying for something.
7
■ Male 48% ■ Female 53%
DON’T FORGET THE SMALL SCREENS. While you may be planning, designing and placing your advert using a laptop or desktop computer,
YOUR OWN ONLINE FOCUS GROUP Here’s a good one... If you’ve got a few ideas for potential adverts, why not ask your followers to pick the best? To test which advert will be most successful, and to tie in your organic social media campaign with a wider paid-for advertising campaign, conduct an online poll.
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don’t forget that a huge proportion of potential clients will see your advert on a mobile phone or tablet.
8
KEEP TRACK OF RESULTS. The
web is a paradise for data geeks, and running your own ad campaign means you’re going to need to become familiar with analytics. Each network offers analytics so you can see the effectiveness of your campaign and refine it for future. Use the data to work out what works and what doesn’t. Also, never discount empirical data – ask new customers why they’ve come to your salon and if the online ad is one of the reasons that is repeatedly mentioned, you know it’s doing its job. If nobody’s even seen or noticed it, it’s time to think again!
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TH E N H BF R O U N D - U P
New year, new name Our Members were overwhelmingly in favour of a name change and now it’s official! Our new name is the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF). We’re keeping our strapline the same: ‘Supporting the hair, beauty and barbering industries.’ ‘Many thanks to everyone who voted,’ said NHBF chief executive Hilary Hall. ‘Most of you agreed that “NHBF” is a good, short and
54
memorable name, but one that remains familiar as it builds closely on the previous version and so maintains brand awareness.’ This decision comes after a successful first year for the NBF, providing unparalleled support to beauty businesses.
talked on the position each of the four main parties is taking on self-employment, protecting workers’ rights, IR35 and the possible impact policy changes could have within the hair and beauty industry. An amazing night was spent at the British Hairdressing Awards by Hilary and NHBF president Ian Egerton. They were filled with admiration for the creative talents of the finalists and the winners. Special congratulations to those NHBF Member winners.
WHAT’S HAPPENING? The NHBF has been busy meeting and greeting, campaigning and influencing. Here’s just a snapshot of their recent activities. The NHBF was exhibiting at Pro Beauty North in October. Director of membership Tina Beaumont-Goddard and director of marketing Tori Priestley had the pleasure of meeting many Members and non-members. Keep an n eye out for where we 2020. will be exhibiting in 2020
The NHBF attended the launch of a new Digital Skills All Party Parliamentary Group (APPG), which will focus on everyone gaining digital skills to be equipped for modern life. The NHBF sponsors the Beauty, Aesthetics and Wellbeing APPG, which will hold panel events throughout 2020.
The NHBF held an event for influential people across the industry to hear their views on our campaigning work and to share the exciting news about our name change and the release of our brand new 2019 industry statistics. The next stakeholder meetings will be held in April and September 2020.
Self-employment in the hairdressing industry was on the agenda when NHBF chief executive Hilary Hall met Martyn Maxey. They
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ROUND -UP T HE NHBF
Director of quality and standards Caroline Larissey and hair professional chair Wendy Cummins had a positive meeting with the Institute for Apprenticeships and Technical Education. They discussed the hair professional review consultation feedback, next steps, raising the standards and profile of the hair industry. The NHBF was represented by Caroline on the Treatwell and British Beauty Council stage at Olympia as part of the ‘Keeping Clients Safe’ panel. Hilary met with David Massey, head of policy at the Low Pay Commission, to discuss how rising wages and employment-related costs are driving some salon owners towards self-employment. They also talked about the black economy and how a crackdown on cowboys would benefit the hair and beauty industries.
Tori attended NHBF ambassador Christian Wiles’ salon where there was an inspirational day held for NHBF competition winners. Christian gave an insight into how he runs his business, and shared his knowledge and industry know-how.
NHBF BUSINESS AWARDS 2019 Who were the winners on the night? Hair, beauty and barbering businesses from across the UK gathered at the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel for the crowning of the winners of the NHBF Business Awards. The Business Awards attracted high-calibre entries competing across 12 categories. The winners were: Best Independent Hair Salon or Barbershop – Small Sponsored by Premier Software Antonacci Hair & Beauty Best Independent Hair Salon or Barbershop – Large Sponsored by Loop HR Law Salons Highly commended: Energy Hair
Best Apprentice Sponsored by VTCT Owen Davies, Saks Chester Best New Business Sponsored by Coversure Law Salons Highly commended: Studio 88 Best Community Support In association with Hair and Beauty Charity Barrie Stephen Best Front of House Sponsored by Ellis Whittam Burghley Hair.Beauty. Academy Best Social Media Sponsored by City & Guilds Hxhair
Best Independent Beauty Salon Sponsored by Shedul Tranquility Beauty Studio
Best Salon Design Sponsored by Shedul Harris & Fox
Best Innovation Sponsored by Global Payments Chair Salons
Outstanding Contribution to the Hair or Beauty Industry Sponsored by Phorest Tina Parsons, Burghley Hair. Beauty.Academy
Best Client Experience Sponsored by Shedul Melissa Timperley Salons
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Entries for the NHBF Business Awards 2020 will open in May.
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EV ENTS T HE NHBF
Wise u up with a webinar The free guidance will be on a range of business topics.
NHBF WELSH AWARDS 2019 The NHBF Welsh Awards celebrated the best in the hairdressing, barbering and beauty industry throughout the whole of Wales held at an awards evening on 3 November 2019 at the Coal Exchange, in Cardiff.
We’ll be running a series of free webinars for Members in the coming months covering a number of key topics to help you run a successful, profitable, safe and legal business. There is no need to travel or leave the comfort of your laptop as the webinars are easily accessible for everyone and your colleagues can take part too. Simply turn on and tune in! Find out more and book now at nhf.info/events
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BLACKPOOL HAIRDRESSING COMPETITIONS 2020 Take note of the date for spring. The annual Blackpool Hairdressing Competitions will be held on 16 March 2020. The competitions will include: Blow-dry Hair up Bridal Colour of the Day Fantasy It’s a Drag
For more information and to download the competition brochure, head to nhf.info/blackpool
Welsh Hairdresser of the Year
Welsh Colourist of the Year
Welsh Barber of the Year
Welsh Apprentice/ Student of the Year
Welsh Salon Team of the Year
Emma Davies – Hair Kandi
Hannah Lambadarios – Josh Lee Hair
Shelley James – Ty Gwallt Unisex Hair Salon
Molly Thomas – Beyoutiful
New Wave Hair
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TH E E N D 24 H O U R S W IT H . . .
ELLIS ATLANTIS Drag and make-up sensation Ellis won last year’s Glow Up series on BBC3. 58 My alarm goes off at… 7am if I’m filming content, then I’m showered and shaved and ready to film for 8am. Then I’ll go into my mum’s room and see if she’s okay – she’s disabled but she also has the pugs sleeping in her room, so I’ve got to see my babies in the morning!
IMAGES: SHUTTERSTOCK / GETTY
As an influencer, I’m responsible for a lot… First, I like to keep active on all my platforms, Instagram, TikTok, Twitter, and so on, liking comments and replying to followers. Then I’ve got content to edit, wigs to style for looks, and make-up designs to do. My days vary a lot, but it’s always centred around content. I tend to work something like 14 to 16 hours, so it can be very demanding. I spend 75% of my life in Bradford and the other 25% in London, mainly for events.
Days spent doing activities that are part of my Glow Up prize… These days seem unique and glamorous, but honestly, it’s hard work! First
thing is flying/travelling to the location, then the call times are always super early. I arrive, meet with Val Garland [who Ellis has been assisting], have a catch-up and a cup of tea. I’ll set up my workstation, see what needs doing, switch off my phone and just get lost in the work zone. Most of the time I’m working with celebrities, so it’s very professional and just focused on keeping everything zen and running smoothly. I have to be super organised so that I know who’s arriving when and what timeframes I’ve got for each model/ client. It’s like being a waiter, make-up artist and schedule planner all at once, while constantly working by the rule of ‘Always say yes – no doesn’t exist.’ It’s mind-blowing to be working with huge celebs, making them pretty and red carpet/runway ready!
The best part of my work is… the people I’ve met and the stories I’ve heard. No matter what day I’m having, hearing a story or chatting to a client instantly relaxes me. My favourite make-up technique is… skincare/prep. If the skin is prepped to within an inch of its life, then the rest of the make-up will fall into place. I think people often skip over skincare and don’t think it’s important, like it’s some myth. But trust me, skincare is crucial!
Post-work… If I’m staying in a hotel, then I always have a bath after work. I normally travel with Lush bath bombs, so I’ll pop one in and chill. I love listening to the rain or thunderstorms, so I’ll put on rain sounds and lie in my bed in darkness. It sounds so dramatic, but it makes me fall asleep quickly. If I’m stressed, I’ll ring my nan – she always knows what to say and her voice is super soothing and reminds me of my childhood.
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