Modern Bajan cuisine

Modern Bajan Cuisine? by Jonathan Cho

Every Bajan knows good Bajan food. Macaroni pie, beef stew and fried plantain. These are just a few of the staples on a traditional menu that is quintessentially Bajan. Luckily, the modern Bajan has access to a plethora of international cuisines from Italian right down to Japanese. We not only know good Bajan food, we understand good cuisine. While these international cuisines are gaining momentum, evolving with compelling modern interpretations, is there room for a modern Bajan cuisine? Can Bajan food become the next trend on the world scene?

Barbadian food is largely influenced by its history; its long occupation by the British, the large population stolen from Africa and the mono-crop system put in place. Everything is influenced by what was available and what people knew to do with it. Therefore, there are influences from around the world, but the cuisine itself is adapted to our Bajan tastes. At the moment, Bajan food is very traditional. It is based on old recipes handed down from generation to generation with little evolution.

To create a modernist interpretation of Bajan cuisine, two things need crucial examination; ingredients and technique. Bajan food should come from Barbadian soil. Using local produce gives a cuisine soul that you can taste. Without that base the food will never truly be Bajan. Therefore, focusing on cultivating the best ingredients possible needs to become a priority. Subsequently, the techniques used to make Barbadian food need to be reviewed. Trying modern techniques are important; however, they need to be worthwhile. If the food is not enhanced because of a different technique then it is unnecessary. Methods such as sous vide and molecular gastronomy are not common on the Barbadian food scene, but have the potential to refine our cuisine. Experimenting and reinterpreting traditional dishes and ingredients will transform Bajan cuisine.

Chefs taking common Caribbean ingredients and showcasing them in elevated dishes, truly exhibits the potential of Bajan cuisine. The rise of ingredients that are locally grown such as breadfruit and black belly sheep, creates a taste that is undeniably local. In recent times, there has been

an overwhelming push for more local produce and that will ultimately lead to better product as it becomes more of a focus. A good example of local ingredients being used by local chefs is Chef Damian Leach’s roasted breadfruit and lobster dish at Cocktail Kitchen. It is the ideal when thinking of Bajan chefs elevating local ingredients.

Caribbean cuisine is on the brink of greatness and Bajan cuisine should be at the forefront of this movement. It is full of flavour and is deeply influenced by other cultures. That is the making of a great cuisine because it takes elements of many different flavours and turns it into something amazing. The melting pot that is the Caribbean makes it difficult to pinpoint exactly what Caribbean food is; however, there are amazing chefs doing the work to elevate it to a world-class cuisine. The fascinating part of all of this is that because there are so many influences on the Caribbean, there are also may reference points. It can appeal to African, European, American, Asian palates seamlessly.

If we want to see a modern Bajan cuisine, we as foodies have to demand it. Asking what is new and what is fresh encourages our food to evolve. Furthermore, celebrating chefs who are being innovative and spreading Barbadian food on an international stage creates the legitimacy necessary to be seen as a world-class cuisine. In order for other people to appreciate our flavours, we have to first appreciate the food we are producing.

Two chefs every Bajan foodie should be paying attention to:

Chef Damian Leach

The Barbadian-born but internationally trained, executive chef of Cocktail Kitchen has won several culinary awards. Chef Leach has been a staple on the Caribbean food scene for years taking Bajan classics and refining them into modern interpretations. He represents the new wave of Caribbean chef showing off the skill and heart of Barbados.

Chef Jason Howard

Chef Howard is at the forefront of chefs developing modern Caribbean cuisine. With experience working in Michelin-starred restaurants, Chef Jason Howard has the skills to showcase Caribbean haute cuisine and has been doing so as a contestant on the television series ‘Master Chef’.