FINAL PROJECT
NAUSICAA TACCHI
1
Nausicaa Tacchi, POLIMODA Master in Product Management Florence, June 2020 2
This book is dedicated to my family, who supported me into this path, to Marco who’s always by my side and to my classmates, my new friends, especially to Lorena that inspired me everyday with her energy and optimism. A special thanks to the professors who supervised the project, especially to Veronica, Francesca, Giuseppe, Andrea, Fiona e Vincenzo. 3
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
BOOTS
7
RICK OWENS
22
THE BOZO ARMY BOOT (the inspiration)
46
THE ALTERNATIVES
56
CHURCH’S
76
CAPSULE COLLECTION DEFINITION
92
THE CAPSULE COLLECTION
102
APPENDIX
132
SOURCES
140 5
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DEFINITION OF A BOOT A boot, is a type of specific footwear. Most boots mainly cover the foot and the ankle, some boots extend up the leg, sometimes as far as the knee or even the hip. Most boots have a heel that is clearly distinguishable from the rest of the sole, even if the two are made of one piece. Traditionally made of leather or rubber, modern boots are made from a variety of materials.
Materials vary as does forms but the essential purpose of the boot remains the same throughout most cultures; to provide protection from the elements.1 7
HISTORY SNAPSHOTS The oldest known depiction of boots is in a cave painting dated between 12,000 and 15,000 B.C.E. It depicts a man in boots of skin and a woman in boots of fur. Boots were also found in the tomb of Khnumhotep in Egypt. The Scythians of about 1000 B.C.E. were reported by the Greeks to have worn simple boots of untanned leather with the fur turned in against the leg. In the ancient world, boots represented ruling power and military might. Middle ages_the styles boots
established continued. High ranking officials were depicted in paintings wearing knee-high laced boots.Towards the end of the fourteenth century, people started wearing soled hose. Fifteenth century_men wore
long boots that reached the thighs and were usually of brown leather.
Sixteenth century_a shorter, lighter and fold-over flap model of the high boot emerged, called the ladrine. Seventeenth century_the first military uniforms brought standardization of the boot. The high-legged cavalier boot was transformed by a highly polished and rigid leg-the prototypical military jackboot. Eighteenth century_the high cavalier boot of the seventeenth century developed into a softer and closer fitting “jockey� style boot with the top folded down under the knee for mobility which showed the brown leather or cotton lining. Nineteenth century_newer designs
were here aided by technological advances as the sewing machine. The first pair of boots with an elasticized side boot gusset was realized and cowboy and blucher boots rised. Twentieth century_boots returned here to their functional role, and traditional forms remained in use until 1960 were chelsea, cowboy and gogo boot spread worldwide. 8
BOOTS TYPES Ref. fashionpedia.org
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ANATOMY
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PATTERN
Vamp Ref. fashionpedia.org
ci Fa
ng
ci
Fa
Quarter
ng
Tongue
Quarter
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FOOTWEAR PRODUCTION 1
2
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5 12
6
8
7
9
10
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1_DESIGN, sketch of the desired shoe. 2_TECHNICAL SHEETS REVIEW, once a shoe’s design has been finalized and approved, a “tech pack” is sent to the factories, it includes all of the shoe’s specs, down to the size of the lace holes, it is as a map for the physical product. 3_PLAN AND SOURCE, together with the factories is determined the exact material needs for production. 4_PATTERN MAKING, the model of the shoes is drawn on the last and then transferred on paper sheets. 5_LEATHER CUTTING, done with machines as the Die-cutting press. 6_EDGES SKIVING, edges are flattened, so that they aren’t too thick when they overlap during the stitching process. 7_UPPER STITCHING, upper’s part pieces of leather are stitched together with a special leather machine. 8_LINING STITCHING, using both glue and stitching the lining is added. 9_ EYELETS PUNCHING, this process can be done by hand or by machine. 10_ 3D SHAPING, the flat hide is now given new dimension by being sewn together in a shape roughly resembling a sole-less boot. 11_LAST MOLDING, the boot-to-be is now molded to a last, which is a piece of plastic or wood resembling the shape of a foot. 12_ LEATHER TRIMMING, using a lasting machine, the leather upper is uniformly stretched over the last, and the excess leather hanging off the bottom is trimmed. 13_ WELT MAKING, the bottom of the upper, still on the last, is given a welt strip along its underside. This strip is a long and skinny piece of leather, which will eventually connect the upper to the sole. 14_ INSOLE, MIDSOLE the midsole is the next layer, often used in athletic shoes because of its ability to absorb shocks, or a piece of thick leather, depending on the model. 15_OUTSOLE CONSTRUCTION then the outsole is attached. Whether it’s made of leather, rubber, or both, the outsole is the outermost layer of the sole. It can be then reinforced by other stitches depending on the type of construction chosen, it can be good year welt, blake welt, etc. 16_OUTSOLE TRIMMING, using a grinder, the sole is trimmed down to a uniform shape. 17_LACES APPLICATION, laces are applied through the eyelets. 18_ QUALITY CONTROL, the product is checked for quality. 19_PACKING, the shoe is packed and ready to be shipped.
15
MAIN MACHINES involved PATTERN MAKING AND CUTTING MACHINERY:
CAD SYSTEM
PANTOGRAPH
2D-3D CAD design software.
To trace a shape in a different scale, following its lines.
DIE-CUTTING PRESS To cut materials by means of dies.
UPPER PREPARATION AND STITCHING MACHINERY:
SPLITTING MACHINE Equalize the thickness of the shoe upper leathers.
EDGE FOLDING MACHINE To fold leather edges.
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SKIVING MACHINE Reduces the thickness of the leather on the upper in accordance to the shoe model.
LINING-UPPER CEMENTING MACHINE To glue the parts of uppers and lining.
EYELETS APPLYING MACHINE With pressure matrix for the application of eyelets, rivets, hooks etc.
VAMP PRE-FORMING MACHINES Equipped with shaped mould in hot (and cold) station.
FLAT-BED SEWING MACHINE
ARM-TYPE SEWING MACHINE
MOCASSIN TYPE SEWING MACHINE
Sewing unit with supporting surface for the material.
Stitching unit with arm type counter top for the material.
Sewing unit with special stitching heads and templates.
SHOE LASTING MACHINERY:
INSOLE APPLYING MACHINE
MOULDING MACHINES
UPPER-TO-LAST FIXING MACHINE
Allows the insole fixing to the last by glue or tape.
To pre-shape the materials used.
Nailing for fastening the upper to the last.
LASTED SHOE BOTTOM WORKING MACHINERY:
SOLE CEMENTING SYSTEMS
SOLE ATTACHING PRESS
SOLE SEWING MACHINES
For the cement application on the bottom and on the sole.
The shoe lasted and the sole are pressed together.
Different depending on the construction chosen.
17
LATEST NEW TECH BOOTS BOTTEGA VENETA DEBUTS “100 PER CENT BIODEGRADABLE” BOOT 4 March 2020 Italian fashion house Bottega Veneta sent models down the catwalk in footwear made of sugarcane and coffee that the brand claims are fully biodegradable. The chunky boots, a hybrid of clogs and wellies, were sported by both male and female models during the brand’s Autumn Winter 2020 show at Milan Fashion Week. “That means they will biodegrade within a year once placed underground, or in a controlled environment under specific lighting and humidity conditions alongside the presence of microorganisms.”2
18
SWISS BRAND ON MOVES TO HIKING WITH LIGHTWEIGHT BOOT 12 August 2019 Swiss running brand On has unveiled the Cloudrock Waterproof hiking shoe that is 35 per cent lighter than a regular boot.
The boot utilises much of the same technology as On’s shoes, including the CloudTec soles, which consist of a series of hollow rubber tubes based on the original garden-hose prototype.3
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ARMY BOOTS 2020 PANORAMA
JULIUS Wide Sole Combat € 1.772,00
GUIDI Front Zip Boots € 1.246,00
AMIRI Combat Boots € 1.150,00
BOTTEGA VENETA Maldon € 950,00
MAISON MARGIELA Combat Boots € 920,00
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Santorini € 895,00
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VERSACE High Sneaker Boots € 890,00
PRADA Army Boots € 790,00
ANN DEMEULEUMEESTER Back Lace Up Boots € 750,00
EYTYS Michigan Leather € 310,00
DR MARTENS Quynn Buckles Boots € 229,00
NEW ROCK Metallic € 185,90
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BIO Rick Owens is an American-born , Paris-based designer whose groundbreaking collections have earned him the nickname The Lord of Darkness. He began the label with his wife in California in 1994 and now oversees a veritable fashion empire managed in independance. In 2001, the designer sought international expansion and agreed a distribution deal with Eo Bocci Associati. As a consequence, the designer’s production relocated to Italy. Owens broke into the highest echelons of the industry with assistance from Anna Wintour who sponsored his first show at New York Fashion Week’s SS 2002 season. In 2002, Owens was appointed artistic director at Revillon and stayed until 2007. Influencing countless designers, his gothic aesthetic boasts a fashion-sportswear hybrid with gender neutral design always in black.
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Photography Hans Feurer, 2009
Womens FW20
BRAND IDENTITY Gender neutral, Avant-garde, Independant. Style is bold, gothic, with edgy structure and an architectural background. For his customers Rick Ownes is more than simply a brand, a lifestyle. 24
ASAP Rocky in Head-to-Toe Rick Owens Ensemble
CUSTOMER PROFILE Age: 25-45 Gender: Unisex Income: Medium-High Occupation: Professional Etnia: Mixed Culture: Mixed Social Class: Middle-Upper Psychographics: Achievers Attitude: Neutral Population density: Urban
BRAND RESPONSIBILITIES Social: Collaboration with Union Farmer Workers Environmental: Collaboration with french sneakers brand Veja.
MISSION To stand at the forefront of the avantgarde through instantly-recognizable silhouetes and a largely monochrome palette often painted with gothic overtones. 25
DIFFUSION LINES
DRKSHDW A street-wear oriented label started in 2005, focused on easy-to-wear pieces in the form of denim and lower priced staples like hoodies and sweats.
RICK OWENS LILIES A range of jersey-focused women’s wear which offers a pared-down take on the boldly directional aesthetic of the main line. Minimalist styling and deep, gothic palette.
HUN RICK OWENS Lauched in 2007 is a luxury women’s fur line. Clothing, footwear and accessories fully comply with the aesthetics of the brand, but made from very expensive materials: alligators, snakes, kangaroos, rare sable furs, minks. In addition, items are of the highest craftsmanship finish as the front and inside.
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FURNITURES BRAND Started in 2007. Rare materials and artisans with specialized skills create unique, one-of-a-kind objects.
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ICONIC PIECES
MOUNTAIN HOODIE Long sleeve French terry hoodie. Offset zip closure at front. Patch pockets at waist. Rib knit cuffs and hem. Silver-tone hardware.
PODS SHORTS Relaxed-fit stretch cotton canvas shorts in grey. Mid-rise. Fourpocket styling. Drawstring at elasticized waistband. Button-fly.
STRETCH KNEE SNEAKERS High-top stretch grained lambskin boots in black. Calfskin trim in off-white at round toe. Tonal bonded jersey lining. Treaded rubber sole in off-white.
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PADDED FLIGHT BOMBER JACKET Below-the-waist length, features a visible zipper closure, side pockets with a snap closure with tone on tone pyramid motif detail.
CARGO PANTS Straight-leg cotton jersey cargo pants. Mid-rise. Four-pocket styling. Dropped inseam. Cropped hem. Drawstring at elasticized waistband. Patch pockets at front. Button-fly. Silver-tone hardware.
GEOBASKET SNEAKERS High-top panelled buffed calfskin sneakers. Perforated detailing at round toe. Lace-up closure in offwhite. Padded tongue and collar. Signature leather appliquĂŠ at sides. Zip closure at inner side. Signature treaded rubber sole. Silver-tone hardware.
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THE SETTING - Palais de Tokyo, Paris.
RICK OWENS MEN SS2020 TECUATL
RICK OWENS AND THOMAS HOUSEAGO
An esoteric sculpture by Leeds-born, LA-based artist Thomas Houseago was placed at the centre of his runway, which models weaved their way around. Additionally, Owens had some of Houseago’s clay shipped in from his studio, which was spread across the courtyard of the Palais and gave the space an unfinished, underconstruction kind of vibe. 30
“I’ve been motivated to explore my personal Mexicanness as a reaction to the US President’s fixation on a border wall.”4
31
Titled Tecuatl after his maternal grandmother’s maiden name — Owens’s mother hails from Puebla and is of Mixtec heritage — this collection was the first time he has used his work as a lens through which to explore his south-of-theborder roots. “My Mexican-ness is very abstract,” said Rick Owens. Owens’s relationship with those roots is abstract — and that abstraction was reflected in the collection. The collection is comprised of colors and cuts synonymous with Owens’ aesthetic, such as black, white and bone floating cape-esque shapes and oversized coats, but also sees a range of bold new looks for this season. 32
“The Aztec eagle on the United Farm Workers’ flag and the struggles it represents are part of my childhood,” continued Owens, who used the association’s stylised eagle emblem in necklaces, t-shirts and shirts. the Aztec Eagle logo of the United Farm Workers’ association, for whose Mexican migrant pickers Owens’s father often worked as a translator in the California courts (these garments and a piece of jewelry will be sold to benefit the UFW)
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RICK OWENS X VEJA Veja and Rick Owens have joined forces for the release of two sneakers, each with its own sustainable elements. The first is an update to the brands’ collaborative Fall/Winter 2019 V-Knit sneaker, which was previously shown during Rick Owens’ Fall/Winter 2019 men’s runway show. The second is a hiking style developed for wear on rough natural terrain.
Designed by both studios, using the new innovative technologies from the VEJA Running project and Rick Owens attitude, the VEJA x Rick Owens running sneaker is minimal and radical.
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LARRY SNEAKERS
Upper in V-Knit (100% recycled plastic bottles)
Logo V made of Pebax RNew (100% ricinus oil)
Insole made out of wild rubber, recycled plastic bottles, recycled E.V.A and E.V.A.
Bio-based midsole made out of sugar cane, rice waste, banana oil, E.V.A. Outsole made of rice waste and wild rubber from the Amazonian forest
THE HIKING SHOES Logo V made of wild rubber
Upper in Cotton, Corn waste and Polyurethane.
Outsole made of rice waste and wild rubber from the Amazonian forest 35
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RICK OWENS X CHAMPION
“Stripped-Down” Campaign is a host of the American heritage label’s signature styles, including Reverse Weave hoodies and basketball shorts, transformed in Owens’ image, described by the designer himself as “stripped-down togas, loincloths and robes.”
“I remember my cousins wearing Champion t-shirts and shorts when we used to visit the family in Mexico in the seventies…in this project here I have turned those traditional athletic clothes into togas, loincloths and under-briefs” 37
RANGE PLAN MENS SS20
PRODUCT NAME
MATERIAL
LINING
COLORS
Off-therunway neue blazer in black wool blend 53% New wool, 47% viscose.
Off-theOff-theOff-therunway ies runway be- runway bomber ach parka cropped soft blazer
Off-therunway pyramid parka
100% 100% 100% Snake 97% Polyester. Cotton, leather Cotton, 3% embroidery Spandex 100% Polyester
Body and Unlined inside pockets 53% Viscose, 47% Cupro, Sleeves 100% Cupro Black Champagne, Black
Body, hood and pocket 53% Viscose, 47% Cupro, Sleeve 100% Cupro Yellow
Body and inside pockets 53% Viscose, 47% Cupro, Sleeves 100% Cupro Chalk white
Body, hood and pockets lining 53% Viscose, 47% Cupro. Sleeve 100% Cupro Black, natural
SIZE RANGE 48 EU
50 EU
48-52 EU
50 EU
46-48 EU
RETAIL PRICE SHORT DESCRIPTION
€ 2.444
€ 1.161
€ 3.402
€ 5.400
€ 2.133
Button front closure, a lapel collar with rivet detail, two snap detail and a loop on shoulders, two flap pockets, back slit and button cuffs and a back strap.
Collar with snap closures, a zipper closure with snap closures folding across the zipper at the neck and waist, zipped pockets on the sides, elasticated waist and cuffs.
Below-thehip length, central snap closures, an oversized hood, wide sleeves and hand embroidered sequins.
Single button closure, a small jetted pocket on the left front chest, two big flap pockets, back slits and five-button cuffs.
Belowthe-hip length, central snap closures, a signature strap with rivets across shoulders and wide sleeves
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OFF THE RUNWAY COLLECTION
Off-theOff-theOff-therunway ou- runway lab runway tershirt jacket glitter
Off-theOff-therunway ies runway jacket bauhaus duster
Off-therunway bauhaus jacket
91% Cot97% 100% Lamb ton, 6% Cotton, 3% leather, Polyethy- Spandex Body pieces 100% lene terephtalate, Nylon, 3% Spandex Knit band 60% CO, 40% WO Inside Body and Body pocket 97% inside lining Cotton, 3% pockets 100% Spandex, 53% Nylon, Yoke 53% Viscose, Pocket 53% Viscose, 47% Cupro, Viscose, 47% Cupro Sleeve 47% Cupro 100% Cupro IrideBlack, na- Black, scent, le- tural white mon yellow
100% Polyester. Shoulder Detail 100% Nylon
97% Cotton, 3% Spandex, Pocket tongues 100% Calf leather
91% Cotton, 6% Polyethylene terephtalate, 3% Spandex
Unlined
Pocket Pocket 53% lining 53% Viscose, Viscose, 47% Cupro 47% Cupro
Champagne, Black black, bronze
48 EU
46-56 EU
50-52 EU
48-54 EU
50 EU
Iridescent multicolored, lemon yellow 48-50 EU
€ 1.107
€ 1.215
€ 1.998
€ 1.323
€ 1.580
€ 1.580
Visible snap closures, a classic collar, two flap pockets with visible snaps, a lemon yellow strap on the back yoke, side slits and snap cuffs.
Central snap closures, a classic collar, snap closure on cuff with rivet detail, two snaps on waist band.
Collar strap with closures, contrast, a central zipper closure, two front zip pockets and two snaps closures on the waist and cuff and rib on waist band.
Slight funnel collar with two snap closures, a central zipper closure, two breast pocket zips, two front zip pockets and two snaps closures on the cuff.
V neckline, four central snap closures, a strap across the shoulders, two zip pockets, a drawstringed waist, a snap closure on cuff.
V neckline, three central snap closures, a strap across the shoulders, two zip pockets, a drawstringed waist, a snap closure on cuff.
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RANGE PLAN MENS SS20
PRODUCT NAME
Off-theOff-therunway ou- runway tershirt thomas boxers
Off-therunway thomas joggers
Off-therunway tyrone collage jeans
MATERIAL
97% 91% CotCotton, 3% ton, 6% Spandex Polyethylene terephtalate, 3% Spandex, Band 97% Cotton, 3% Spandex
91% Cotton, 6% Polyethylene terephtalate, 3% Spandex, Band 97% Sotton, 3% Spandex
91% Cot97% ton, 6% Cotton, 3% Polyethy- Spandex lene terephtalate, 3% Rubber, Details, 100% Nylon
LINING
Yoke 53% Viscose, 47% Cupro
Pocket 100% Cotton
Pocket li- Pocket li- Unlined ning 100% ning, 100% Cotton Cotton
COLORS
Dust grey
-Black -White
-Black -White
SIZE RANGE 48-54 EU RETAIL PRICE SHORT DESCRIPTION
40
48-50 EU
48/54-56 EU € 986 € 1.485 (B) € 1.755 (B) € 1.566 (W) € 1.836 (W) Visible DrawMegalasnap string, ce front closures, elastica- detail, classic ted waist, skinny collar, side fit, a two flap pockets drawstring pockets, and bauwaist, an a ufw haus zip elasticalogo on pockets ted waist the back, with zip. and ankle side slits cuff, side and snap pockets cuffs. and back pockets.
Off-therunway jumbo bela pants
White wax
Lemon yellow
28-32
50 EU
€ 716
€ 702
Snug fit, feature a low-rise, concealed button closures, grey right leg, white wax denim left leg and a white nylon collage detail.
A floor-length, a drawstring waist, a central zipper, a low crotch, side pockets and back hemmed pockets.
OFF THE RUNWAY COLLECTION
Off-therunway dylan tee
Off-therunway sleelveless level tee
Off-therunway larry shirt
100% Cotton
100% Cotton
Unlined
Off-therunway small duffle bumbag
Off-therunway pashmina scarf
Off-therunway easy choker chain necklace
100% Cupro 100% Cow leather, 100% Cotton , Ribbon: 100% Cotton
70% Cotton, 30% Silk
100% Aluminum. Snap 100% Brass
Unlined
Unlined
-
-
-Black -White
Black
Lemon yel- Yellow low
S-M-L
S-M-L
46-54 EU
38x12x4
€ 214
€ 243
€ 648
€ 810
Extreme deep v neck, short sleeves and has a belowthe-hip length.
Ribbed crewneck, and horizontal seams on the shoulders and ufw (united farm workers) aztec eagle logo on front.
Deep v neck, long sleeves, visible snap closures has a zipper pocket on the left side and snaps on the cuff.
Rectangular pouch bag with one front zipper, one top zipper on fold-over flap, an adjustable yellow cotton belt.
Unlined
Chalk whi- Iridescent te pink, multi-colored hints, palladio silver 120x100 48cm (C) 15cm (D) € 284 € 756 Off-therunway pashmina scarf in chalk white cotton silk blend is rectangular and has raw edges.
Sixteen Chains and fastens together with a double ended buckle.
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RANGE PLAN MENS SS20
PRODUCT NAME
Sneakers in black leather
Maximal runner sneakers
Geobasket in chalk white leather
MATERIAL - 100% Tere- 100% Lamb UPPER phthalate leather polyethylene
100% Calf leather
100% Lamb leather
100% Calf leather
LINING
100% Calf leather
100% Calf leather
100% Calf leather
100% Calf leather
100% Rubber, Insole: 100% Calf leather -Pearl light grey -Black
100% Rubber, Insole: 100% Calf leather Black
100% Rubber, Insole: 100% Calf leather - Black - Pear light grey
SIZE RANGE 40-46 EU
39-46 EU
39-43 EU
39-46 EU
100% Rubber, Insole: 100% Calf leather -Chalk white - Black/ Chalk white 39-40 EU
RETAIL PRICE SHORT DESCRIPTION
€ 250
€ 684
€ 802
€ 840
€ 999
Vegan performance sneakers and feature nine eyelet laces, slightly pointed toes, contrast “v” logos on the sides, back pull-tabs, and white lightweight soles.
Six eyelets, laces, iconic barrette patches on heel and white soles with extended bumpers, a pearl light grey rubber sole with a milk white under-sole.
Seven eyelets, laces, a side zipper for easy fastening, black toe-caps and shark-tooth soles.
Non-functioning, mega-lace detail, an elasticated tongue to enable trouble-free pulling on of the runner and a black rubber sole with a black under-sole.
Non-functioning, mega-lace detail, extra functioning laces to wrap around the top of the shoe, a side zipper, geometric seams with visible stitchings and white shark-tooth soles.
SOLE
COLORS
42
Larry off- Maximal the-runway runner veja shoes sneakers
88% Rubber, 12% wild amazonian Rubber Natural beige and Black
FOOTWEAR
Geobasket in black and white leather
Geobasket Sneakers in irise iridescent leather
Low sneaks Runner lace up shoe
Tractor sneakers
100% Calf leather, detail 100% Cow leather 100% Calf leather
100% Calf leather, detail 100% Cow leather 100% Calf leather
100% Calf leather
100% Calf leather
100% Calf leather
100% Calf leather
100% Rubber, Insole: 100% Calf leather Black / Chalk white
100% Rubber, Insole: 100% Calf leather Iridescent pink, multi-colored hints
100% Rubber, insole: 100% calf leather Black
100% Rub- 100% Rubber, inso- ber le: 100% calf leather Black Black
100% Rubber, insole: 100% calf leather Black
39 EU
39-40 EU
39-46 EU
40-44 EU
39-46 EU
39-46 EU
€ 805
€ 905
€ 918
€ 689
€ 624
€ 984
Even eyelets, laces, a side zipper for easy fastening, geometric seams with visible stitchings and milk white shark-tooth soles.
Seven eyelets, laces, a side zipper for easy fastening, geometric seams with visible stitchings and milk white shark-tooth soles.
Non-functioning, mega-lace detail, extra functioning laces to wrap around the top of the shoe, a side zipper for easy fastening, black toe-caps and shark-tooth soles.
Seven eyelets, laces, milk white toe-caps and shark-tooth soles.
Six eyelets, laces, pearl light grey cow leather details, rick owens iconic barrette patches on heel and white soles with extended bumpers.
Eight metal buckles on each side for lace fastening and pearl light grey geometric seams and have a voluminous black tractor sole
100% 100% Ram Nylon, de- leather tail: 100% Cow leather 100% Calf 100% Calf leather leather
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RANGE PLAN MENS SS20
PRODUCT NAME
Lazarus black leather sandal
Lazarus bronze leather sandal
Gladi run- Tractor ner sansandals dals
MATERIAL - 100% Lamb UPPER leather
100% Cow leather
100% Calf leather, plantar facing 100% Lamb leather
100% Calf leather, plantar facing: 100% Lamb leather
LINING
100% Calf leather
100% Calf leather
100% Lacowmb leather, plantar facing, 100% Lamb leather 100% Calf leather
100% Calf leather.
100% Calf leather
SOLE
100% Rubber
100% Rub- 100% Rubber, inber sole: 100% Lamb leather
100% Rubber
100% Rubber
COLORS
-Black -Chalk white
Black
Bronze, Brown
Black
-Black -Chalk white
SIZE RANGE RETAIL PRICE SHORT DESCRIPTION
39-46 EU € 768
41-44 EU € 729
40-45 EU € 864
40-46 EU € 948
39-46 EU € 924
Six eyelets, laces and have a black tractor sole, the chalk white has a “clear” red transparent sole.
Open toe, three attached slightly cut out straps across the top of the foot and have a black rubber shark tooth sole
Open toe, cut out straps across the top of the foot and have a brown five-segment megatooth rubber sole and stitching details.
Velcro fastening strap over the toes, and a high gladiator style velcro strap above the ankle, have a white rubber sole with a black under-sole.
Open-toed, two leather straps with adjustable straps with buckle closures on top, tractor sole, the chalk white has a “clear” red transparent sole.
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Tractor shoe
FOOTWEAR
Elastic Elastic Elastic Mega bozo sliver bo- sliver bo- kiss boots tractor ots ots beetle boot 100% 100% Snake 100% Ram 100% Calf Python le- leather leather leather ather
Bozo sneak Bozo army megatooth boots boots 100% Calf leather
100% Ram leather
100% Calf leather
100% Calf 100% Calf leather leather
100% Calf 100% Calf leather leather
100% Calf leather
100% Calf leather. Sole detail: 100% Rubber, insole: 100% Calf leather
100% Calf leather. Sole detail: 100% Rubber, insole: 100% Calf leather
100% Rubber, insole: 100% Calf leather
100% Rubber, insole: 100% Calf leather
Natural beige
Chalk whi- Black te
Chalk whi- Black te, Clear re
Black
42-44 EU € 2.268
41-44 EU € 1.769
39-40 EU € 1.188
42-44 EU € 924
41-44 EU € 1.026
39-46 EU € 1.272
4.5 Cm heel, flat square toes, elastic panels on both sides, stitchings and a pull tab on the back.
4.5 Cm heel, flat square toes, elastic panels on both sides, stitchings and a pull tab on the back.
12.5cm heel, a thick front platform, elastic panels on both sides, and a pull tab on the back
Above the ankle, have a stretch side and back loop pull-on boots and feature a voluminous “clear” red transparent rubber tractor sole.
Elastic ankle top, have an above the ankle height, stretch side and back loop pull-on boots and feature a five-segment megatooth rubber sole.
Para rubber sole, with a slightly curved toe, eighteen eyelets, megalacing, a zipper on the inner side for easy fastening and stitching details.
100% Calf leather, sole detail: 100% Rubber, insole: 100% Calf leather
100% Rubber, insole: 100% Calf leather
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ANALYSIS OF A BOOT DESCRIPTION SS20 Tecuatl Offthe-Runway Bozo Army boots in black leather feature a para rubber sole, with a slightly curved toe, eleven eyelets, megalacing, a zipper on the inner side for easy fastening and stitching details.
Black Bozo Army Boot
FRONT VIEW
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COMPONENTS Upper: 100% Ram leather Lining: 100% Calf leather Insole: 100% Texton Sock: 100% Calf leather Sole: 100% Rubber Laces: 100% Cotton
SIDE VIEW
47
LACES AND SIDE ZIPPER FASTENING Laces: Wide (12 mm) lenght is 6 mt Zipper: #10, lenght is 27,5 cm D-Rings (5) Hiking Rivet Hooks (2+4)
Black Bozo Army Boot
SIDE INNER VIEW
48
COLOURWAY Upper: Black
Laces: PANTONE 11-0607 TCX
BACK VIEW
49
THE SOLE
50
THE HEEL
51
THE RUNWAY LOOKS “It’s the MexicanAmerican dream in platform boots5”
52
FROM RICK OWENS FW2017 COLLECTION
Mid-calf buffed leather boots in black. Round toe. Taupe lace-up closure. Zip closure at inner side. Pull-loop at heel collar. Crepe rubber sole in tan. Antiqued silver-tone and gunmetal-tone hardware. Tonal stitching.
53
Aleali May in the Glitter Pentagram Boots
The Glitter Pentagram Boot
FOCUS: MATERIALS RAM LEATHER The heavy grainy lamb leather is repeatedly washed to achieve a very grainy natural surface texture on the Upper part of the boot, Vegetable tanning, 1.1 mm thick.
CALF LEATHER Soft calf leather for the best comfort, 1 mm thick, dyed in black
TEXON Non woven Texon Trektex insole, Texon Reform Counter and Texon UltraTex for the toe puff, all made by 100% polyester.
RUBBER The one block sole is made by injection molding from rubber and is later spray-inked in black to give the crepe effect
54
55
CEMENTED SOLE CONSTRUCTION PROCESS The cheapest and most common way to sole a shoe is called cemented construction, also known as “stuck on construction” in the UK or the “Compo process”.
Cementing requires attaching the outsole to the upper by adhesive, with no stitching. While it is a suitable method for lightweight and flexible shoes as sneakers, it’s not considered a great way to sole boots. It totally prevents the ability to resole: once the sole starts to peel away, the shoe is more or less done.
56
measuring
glue spreading
sole attachment
glue addition
quality control
PROS: It is a cheap, quick way of attaching the sole, making the shoes’ overall price much more aggressive than a pair which is welted. It also is a superior method of attachment for gummy, rubbery soles that are used in casual shoes. Cementing can be a great method for sneakers, bucks, chukkas, and other shoes with a rubber sole.
CONS: It is a cheap, quick way of attaching the sole, affecting the durability of the connection between the upper and the sole. It is also a method that completely prevents any resoling. Once the upper begins to separate from the sole or the sole itself is damaged, the shoes need to be replaced, rather than repaired. 57
SPECIFICATIONS SHEET Date Sent
20/04/2019
Season
Mens Tecuatl SS20
Deadline
05/05/2019
Last Model
SUX-6000
Company
Owenscorp
Sample size
41 EU
Size View-Outer
Size View-Inner
Material
Description
Upper
100% Ram skin
Black, Grainy surface 1,1mm
Lining
100% Calf skin
Black, 1mm
Insole
Texon TrekTex
-
Sock
100% Calf skin
12mm
Sole
100% Rubber
Crepe inked rubber sole in Black
Rand
100% Leather
Matching Black
Thread
100% Polyester
Serafil 40, Black 5600 (Matching)
Rivet Hooks
Nickel
(4+2) Shiny black
D rings
Nickel
(5) Shiny black, (D)0,9
Ribbons
Polypropylene
10mm width, Black 0980
Laces
100% Cotton
Flat, 7mm Wide, 6mt,
Zipper
Aluminium
#10 (~10mm), Closed end, Silver
Welt thread
100% Cotton Wax
Serabraid, TKT 15
Internal Toe puff
Texon UltraTex
0,4mm
Internal Counter
Texon ReForm
1mm
58
PANTONE
11-0607TCX
Product Name
BOZO ARMY BOOTS
Division
Product Code
RR20S7866-LSLW1-09 Construction
Color description Black
Made in
Back View
Boots Cemented Italy Front View
Details
Notes Double needle Top Stitching 5pt/1cm Welt stitching 2,5 pt/1cm Raw edges black inked Needle Nm 90-120 punta LR
59
COSTING SHEET Compon. Type Component Specs
Supplier
Need*
Price*
LR800 Upper
Ram leather
Pistolesi
~0,65m2 35,10€
LC312 Lining
Calf leather
Pistolesi
~0,65m2 27,30€
TX124 Thread
Thread
Collini
-
-
56700 Black paint
Black (matching) Stahl
-
-
LC312 Sock
Calf leather
Pistolesi
~0,3m2
Sock logo
Sock logo
Local
pair
Toe puff
Texon UltraTex
Texon
0,30€
Counter
Texon ReForm
Texon
0,40€
Insole
Texon TrekTex
Texon
0,06 m2
0,70€
Cork tap
Cork
Frankford
pair
0,40€
Rand
Leather
INGOM
1,2 mt
Outsole
Inked rubber
INGOM
pair
Cement
Water based PU
Nom-Pou
-
C_2SC Laces
Wide Laces
pair
4,80€
87-Y
Ribbons
Stringhificio Serrano Collini
-
0,10€
G 190 Rivet hooks
Rivet hooks
Moro Minuterie
2
0,20€
G 11
Rivet hooks
Moro Minuterie
4
0,40€
9X1,6 D Ring
D Ring
Moro Minuterie
5
0,50€
ZY#10 Zipper
Zipper #10
SBS
2
3,00€
RO20
Ribbons
Rivet hooks
10,30€ 0,01€
15,00€ -
90HJ
Waxed thread Waxed thread
Collini
-
-
XXSR
Box
Marber
1
0,80€
11DF
Tongue Label 3x3 White+Black
1
0,10€
1-RT
EEC label
2x2 White+Black
1
0,15€
RO1
Hang tag
Color print
1
0,10€
FGG-3 Tag pin
Transparent
1
0,01€
ST70
Wrap, Toe tissue 10g, 4 sheets
1
0,05€
Tissue
Natural Brown
TOTAL *considered by pair. Leather prices include 20% more of scraps.
60
99,72€
LABOUR COSTS
Cutting
Timing/ Cost/min Price pair 10.00 0,466€ 4,66€
Closing
30.00
0,466€
13,98€
Making/finishing Quality control TOTAL
20.00
0,466€
9,32€
3.00
0,466€
1,39€
63.00
0,466€
29,36€
Source: Eurostat LCS surveys, https://ec.europa.eu/ eurostat/statistics-explained/index. php?title=Wages_and_ labour_costs&oldid=349822#Gross_wages.2Fearnings. In Italy 28€ is the gross extimated labour cost.
PRODUCTION COSTS AND FINAL PRICE Direct material
99,72€
Direct labour costs
29,36€
Man. overheads
2,50€
Adm. Overheads
3,70€
Depreciation
0,24€
TOTAL PRODUCTION COSTS
135,52€
Contribution margin (25,0%) OWENSCORP COST
33,88€ 169,40€
Mark Up
x3
WHOLESALE PRICE
508,00€ Mark Up x2,5
RETAIL PRICE
1.270,00€
61
ALTERNATIVE 1 The more Sustainable one Zipper from NATULONÂŽ line by YKK, made from recycled materials such as PET bottles Vegetable tanned leather leftovers from factory waste No lining but lined reinforces Recycled rubber sole made from scrap material taken from the own factory.
A step towards employing the process of the Circular Economy, which aims to eliminate waste and pollution from manufacturing.
THE PROCESS BEHIND RECYCLED RUBBER: The result is a stack of material that is a mixture of rubber pulp, leather fibres and foam granulates. 62
63
SPECIFICATIONS SHEET Date Sent
20/04/2019
Season
Mens Tecuatl SS20
Deadline
05/05/2019
Last Model
SUX-6000
Company
Owenscorp
Sample size
41 EU
Size View-Outer
Size View-Inner
Material
Description
Upper
100% Leather
Mixed leather leftovers ~1,1mm thick
Lining
-
-
Insole
Texon TrekTex
-
Sock
100% Calf skin
12mm
Cork
Cork tap
Regular = 1/16� thick
Sole
100% Eco Rubber
Own recycled rubber
Rand
100% Leather
Matching Black
Thread
100% Polyester
Serafil 40, Black 5600 (Matching)
Rivet Hooks
Nickel
(4+2) Shiny black
D rings
Nickel
(5) Shiny black, (D)0,9.
Ribbons
Polypropylene
7mm width, Black 0980
Laces
100% Cotton
7 mm Wide, 6 mt, PANTONE 11-0607 TCX
Zipper
Aluminium
Closed end, Silver, 12mm
Welt thread
100% Cotton Wax
TKT 15
Internal Toe puff
Texon UltraTex
0,4mm
Internal Counter
Texon ReForm
1mm
64
Sustainable alternative Product Name
BOZO ARMY BOOTS
Division
Product Code
RR20S7866-LSLW2-10 Construction
Color description Mixed natural
Made in
Back View
Boots Cemented Italy Front View
Details
Notes Double needle Top Stitching 5pt/1cm Welt stitching 2,5 pt/1cm Raw edges black inked Needle Nm 90-120 punta LR
65
HYPOTHETICAL COSTS Compon. Type Component Specs
Supplier
Need*
Price*
LR800 Upper
Ram leather
Pistolesi
~0,65m2
0,00€
LC312 Lining
Calf leather
Pistolesi
~0,20m2
0,00€
TX124 Thread
Thread
Collini
-
-
56700 Black paint
Black (matching) Stahl
-
-
LC312 Sock
Calf leather
Pistolesi
~0,3m2
Sock logo
Sock logo
Local
pair
Toe puff
Texon UltraTex
Texon
0,30€
Counter
Texon ReForm
Texon
0,40€
Insole
Texon TrekTex
Texon
0,06 m2
0,70€
Cork tap
Cork
Frankford
pair
0,40€
Rand
Leather
INGOM
1,2 mt
Outsole
Inked rubber
INGOM
pair
Cement
Water based PU
Nom-Pou
-
C_2SC Laces
Wide Laces
pair
4,80€
87-Y
Ribbons
Stringhificio Serrano Collini
-
0,10€
G 190 Rivet hooks
Rivet hooks
Moro Minuterie
2
0,20€
G 11
Rivet hooks
Moro Minuterie
4
0,40€
9X1,6 D Ring
D Ring
Moro Minuterie
5
0,50€
YNAT1 Zipper
Natulon Zipper
YKK
2
4,70€
RO20
Ribbons
Rivet hooks
10,30€ 0,01€
15,00€ -
90HJ
Waxed thread Waxed thread
Collini
-
-
XXSR
Box
Marber
1
0,80€
11DF
Tongue Label 3x3 White+Black
1
0,10€
1-RT
EEC label
2x2 White+Black
1
0,15€
RO1
Hang tag
Color print
1
0,10€
FGG-3 Tag pin
Transparent
1
0,01€
ST70
Wrap,Toe tissue
1
0,05€
Tissue
Natural Brown
10g, 4 sheets
TOTAL *considered by pair. Leather prices include 20% more of scraps.
66
39,02€
LABOUR COSTS
Cutting
Timing/ Cost/min Price pair 10.00 0,466€ 4,66€
Closing
30.00
0,466€
13,98€
Making/finishing Quality control TOTAL
20.00
0,466€
9,32€
3.00
0,466€
1,39€
63.00
0,466€
29,36€
Source: Eurostat LCS surveys, https://ec.europa.eu/ eurostat/statistics-explained/index. php?title=Wages_and_ labour_costs&oldid=349822#Gross_wages.2Fearnings. In Italy 28€ is the gross extimated labour cost.
PRODUCTION COSTS AND FINAL PRICE Direct material
39,02€
Direct labour costs
29,36€
Man. overheads
2,50€
Adm. Overheads
3,70€
Depreciation
0,24€ 74,82€
Contribution margin (25,0%)
18,70€
OWENSCORP COST
93,52€ Mark Up
Sustainable alternative
TOTAL PRODUCTION COSTS
x3
WHOLESALE PRICE
280,56€ Mark Up x2,5
RETAIL PRICE
701,40€
67
ALTERNATIVE 2 The more Durable one Waterproof leather treatment given in the dyeing phase to last longer
Leather midsole to allow the Goodyear Welt stitching
Goodyear Welt sole construction Outsole in TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane)
Goodyear welt system is one of the most prestigious and resistant system of shoe construction. The welt stitching guarantees the longest product life in the worst conditions. The all around stitch consolidates a perfect and robust interaction between the upper, the inner sole and the outsole. 68
GOODYEAR WELT BENEFITS: — Long-lasting — Resolable — Minimize water penetration
TPU BENEFITS: — Lightweight — Resistance to temperatures up to 130°C (266°F) — Highly resistant to most oils and chemicals — High tolerance to abrasion, cracking, splitting and cuts/tears — Premium slip resistance for uneven and slippery surfaces — Cold resistant down to -20°C, stays flexible in low temperatures
69
SPECIFICATIONS SHEET Date Sent
20/04/2019
Season
Mens Tecuatl SS20
Deadline
05/05/2019
Last Model
SUX-6000
Company
Owenscorp
Sample size
41 EU
Size View-Outer
Size View-Inner
Material
Description
Upper
100% Ram skin
Black, Grainy surface 1,1mm
Lining
100% Calf skin
Black, 1mm
Insole
Texon TrekTex
-
Sock
100% Calf skin
12mm
Cork tap
Cork
Heavy = 3/32� thick
Midsole
100% Cow Leather 3 mm thick
Sole
100% TPU
Black
Rand
100% Leather
Matching Black
Thread
100% Polyester
Serafil 40, Black 5600 (Matching)
Rivet Hooks
Nickel
(4+2) Shiny black
D rings
Nickel
(5) Shiny black, (D)0,9.
Ribbons
Polypropylene
7mm width, Black 0980
Laces
100% Cotton
7 mm Wide, 6 mt, PANTONE 11-0607 TCX
Zipper
Aluminium
Closed end, Silver, 12mm
Welt thread
100% Cotton Wax
TKT 15
Internal Toe puff
Texon UltraTex
0,4mm
Internal Counter
Texon ReForm
1mm
70
Durable alternative Product Name
BOZO ARMY BOOTS
Division
Product Code
RR20S7867-LSLW1-09 Construction
Color description Black
Made in
Back View
Boots Goodyear welt Italy Front View
Details
Notes Double needle Top Stitching 5pt/1cm Welt stitching 2,5 pt/1cm Raw edges black inked Needle Nm 90-120 punta LR
71
HYPOTHETICAL COSTS Compon. Type Component Specs
Supplier
Need*
Price*
LR800 Upper
Ram leather
Pistolesi
~0,65m2
35,10€
LC312 Lining
Calf leather
Pistolesi
~0,65m2
27,30€
TX124 Thread
Thread
Collini
-
-
56700 Black paint
Black (matching) Stahl
-
-
LC312 Sock
Calf leather
Pistolesi
~0,3m2
Sock logo
Sock logo
Local
pair
Toe puff
Texon UltraTex
Texon
0,30€
Counter
Texon ReForm
Texon
0,40€
Insole
Texon TrekTex
Texon
0,06 m2
0,70€
Cork tap
Cork
Frankford
pair
0,40€
Midsole
Cow leather
Potter & Sons
pair
5,00€
Rand
Leather
BASF
1,2 mt
Outsole
IElastollan® TPU BASF
pair
Cement
Water based PU
Nom-Pou
-
C_2SC Laces
Wide Laces
String Serrano pair
4,80€
87-Y
Ribbons
Collini
-
0,10€
G 190 Rivet hooks
Rivet hooks
Moro Minuterie 2
0,20€
G 11
Rivet hooks
Moro Minuterie 4
0,40€
9X1,6 D Ring
D Ring
Moro Minuterie 5
0,50€
ZY#10 Zipper
Zipper #10
SBS
2
3,00€
RO20
Ribbons
Rivet hooks
10,30€ 0,01€
13,00€ -
90HJ
Waxed thread Waxed thread
Collini
-
-
XXSR
Box
Marber
1
0,80€
11DF
Tongue Label 3x3 White+Black
1
0,10€
1-RT
EEC label
2x2 White+Black
1
0,15€
RO1
Hang tag
Color print
1
0,10€
FGG-3 Tag pin
Transparent
1
0,01€
ST70
Wrap,Toe tissue
1
0,05€
Tissue
Natural Brown
10g, 4 sheets
TOTAL *considered by pair. Leather prices include 20% more of scraps.
72
102,81€
LABOUR COSTS
Cutting
Timing/ Cost/min Price pair 10.00 0,466€ 4,66€
Closing
30.00
0,466€
13,98€
Making/finishing Quality control TOTAL
31.00
0,466€
14,45€
3.00
0,466€
1,39€
74.00
0,466€
34,48€
Source: Eurostat LCS surveys, https://ec.europa.eu/ eurostat/statistics-explained/index. php?title=Wages_and_ labour_costs&oldid=349822#Gross_wages.2Fearnings. In Italy 28€ is the gross extimated labour cost.
PRODUCTION COSTS AND FINAL PRICE Direct material
102,81€
Direct labour costs
34,48€
Man. overheads
2,50€
Adm. Overheads
3,70€
Depreciation
0,24€
TOTAL PRODUCTION COSTS
143,73€
Contribution margin (25,0%) OWENSCORP COST
35,93€ 179,66€
Mark Up
x3
Durable alternative
WHOLESALE PRICE
538,99€ Mark Up x2,5
RETAIL PRICE
1.347,48€
73
The most successful men’s fashion is conservative with just a hint of rebellion. Rick Owens6
74
DEVELOPMENT OF A CAPSULE COLLECTION FOR CHURCH’S INSPIRED BY THE BOZO ARMY BOOTS
75
PRADA GROUP PROFILE
A leading player in the luxury industry, Prada Group is an experimental workshop of ideas. The history of the Group begins in 1913 when Mario Prada, Miuccia Prada’s grandfather, opened the first Prada store in Milan. Today the Group is lead by Miuccia Prada and his husband, Patrizio Bertelli and it includes Miu Miu - Miuccia Prada’s “other soul” - a brand with a provocative, nonchalant and sophisticated attitude; Church’s, leading traditional high-end men’s footwear manufacturer; Car Shoe, footwear brand known for its iconic studded rubber sole moccasin, and Pasticceria Marchesi, historic pastry shop, renown for its exceptional contemporary interpretation of traditional specialties. 76
RAW MATERIALS Raw materials are extremely important for the Prada Group and are the essence of products quality. An internal careful selection process of top quality raw materials and suppliers ensures top quality standards. Raw materials are often exclusively produced for the Prada Group, following rigorous stylistic and technical specifications that offer quality as well as exclusivity, while enhancing the strong identity, typical of all the products of the Group. Raw Materials undergo exceptionally strict controls carried out by Group’s technicians and inspectors, prior to their employment.
PRODUCTION
THE GARDEN FACTORY - Valvigna, Arezzo.
The 22 Group-owned production sites are accompanied by a network of external suppliers. In most cases it is a matter of long-term relationships, begun after a careful selection conducted on the basis of very strict parameters, aimed to ensure excellent quality with a special focus on working and reliability conditions. The Prada Group also relies on in-house modeling and prototyping structures for all product categories that allow the creation, development and optimization of collections in very short time. Even for external suppliers – who are provided with materials, project and prototypes - all the stages of the process are monitored by a team of Group’s inspectors.
77
All these sites projects aimed to preserve the territory, recover the existing structures and mitigate the architecture impact on landscape. This has been progressively accompanied by a path geared towards the energy efficiency optimization of the structures and an increasing focus on green spaces. Goals that find their highest expression on the “garden factories” designed by architect Guido Canali for the Group seeking a subtle balance between human work and nature. In July 2016, the industrial complex of Prada Valvigna won the prestigious Brand&Landscape Award, the recognition established by the National Council of Architects in collaboration with international magazine Paysage Topscape, that celebrated the factory for being an “expression of great respect for nature, which is safeguarded and preserved, as well as for work, to which dignity and value are attributed”. 78
CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY The Prada Group seeks an economic growth linked to medium and long-term sustainable development, contributing to the respect for people, environment, communities and artistic heritage. These principles, which have always been part of the Group’s activities, find expression in corporate culture, relations with institutions and industry associations, with supply chain partners and in cultural projects supporting the communities in the areas where it is present. The commitment of the Group - documented in an annual report since 2013 - intends to significantly contribute to a path of sustainability through the development of practices and values among the main stakeholders.
79
LICENSES The Group in 2003, enters into a licensing agreement with Luxottica, a global leader in the eyewear industry which produces and distributes eyewear under the Prada and Miu Miu brands. In the same year Prada signs a collaboration agreement with Puig Beauty & Fashion Group for the creation, production and marketing of Prada perfumes. In 2013 the Prada Group enters into an agreement with Coty Inc. for the distribution and creation of Miu Miu perfumes.
DISTRIBUTION Throughout the years the Group has expanded its distribution network counting - as of December 31st, 2019 - 641 Directly Operated Stores in the most prestigious locations of the main international shopping destinations, consistently with the image, heritage and exclusivity of each brand. This extended network is an actual asset for the Group, as it represents an important showcase for the launch of new collections as well as an essential vehicle to establish a contact with customers. Stores transcend their primary function of selling, serving also as an important tool of communication and customer assistance. They consistently narrate the image of each brand and allow a continuous dialogue as well as providing services that protect the products’ quality and durability over time. The wholesale channel (department stores, multi-brand, franchise stores and e-tailers) guarantees an additional number of stores selected according the exclusivity of the locations in various markets allowing a direct and immediate comparison to competitors. The channel has been carefully reviewed during the past few years in order to implement the selection of stores, which have been considerably reduced consistently with the expansion of the retail expansion. The digital evolution of the Group led to the development of new partnerships with the major on-line retailers.
80
KEY FIGURES
5
BRANDS
M€ REVENUES
13.988
641
70
22
EMPLOYEES *updated at december 31st, 2019
3.225
COUNTRIES
DOS
FACTORIES
81
CHURCH’S The brand was founded in a small work shop in Northampton in 1873 by Thomas Church and his sons. Aware of the growing family business, Prada Group bought the company in 1999. Since then Church’s expanded its selling points overseas but continued its rigorous dedication to craftmanship and English identity just with some adjustments, such as the introduction of contemporary and seasonal styles alongside the more traditional offering.
82
BRAND IDENTITY VALUE
Timeless elegance and tradition, handcrafted in Britain.
MISSION
Make high quality, handcrafted shoes and leather goods.
TARGET MARKET
Middle-upper class, 40-60 yo man. Elegant, classy, who values a lot his high position job, busy but enjoing his free time with his family. Not an impulsive shopper, a self-made man seeking for comfort, quality, durability and timeless items.
83
CURRENT POSITIONING MAP
Church’s is positioned into the Classy-High End area. It’s main competitors are Bally and Tod’s which offer the same range of products at similar prices.
84
SS2020 CAMPAIGN
85
86
CURRENT COLLECTION RANGE PLAN
PRODUCT NAME
Docklow
PRODUCT CODE
ETG008_9VP EEG024_9XM EEG024_9VJ EEG031_9MO EEG031_9ACE
Boland
MATERIAL - Cotton UPPER Canvas
Calf leather
LINING
Cotton Canvas
SOLE
COLORS
Boland plus 2
Cotton Canvas
Suede with Vintage natural calf leafinish ther with natural finish Cotton Cotton Canvas Canvas
Calf leather
100% Cotton Canvas
Rubber
Rubber
Rubber
Rubber
Rubber
-Green -Blue -Beige
-Black -Brown -White -Stone -Black and -Sigar white -Blue
-Brown -Natural -Denim
-Red
SIZE RANGE 6.5-10 UK
5-13 UK
5-13 UK
5-13 UK
5-13 UK
RETAIL PRICE
€ 650
€ 450
€ 450
€ 490
€ 450
SHORT DESCRIPTION
Canvas Laceup Boot Military
Calf Leather Classic Sneaker
Suede Classic Sneaker
Vintage Calf Leather Classic Sneaker
Calf Leather Classic Sneaker, contrast tongue and contrast leather heel tab
87
CURRENT COLLECTION RANGE PLAN
PRODUCT NAME
Dalton
PRODUCT CODE
EEG032_9A- EEG018_9A- EDB106_9CA EDB106_9AG EDB107_9CA AU AU 4
Ch873
Doughton
Dunridge
MATERIAL - Suede and UPPER Gabardine
Suede and Gabardine
Suede leather
Calf leather
Suede leather
LINING
Cotton Canvas
Cotton Canvas
Leather
Leather
Leather
SOLE
Rubber
Rubber
Leather
Leather
Leather
COLORS
-White/light blue -White/red -White/ black -Beige/ orange
-Multicolor Grey -Multicolor Sigar
-Sigar
-Black -Brown
-Stone -Sigar
SIZE RANGE 5-13 UK
5-13 UK
5-13 UK
5-13 UK
5-13 UK
RETAIL PRICE
€ 520
€ 550
€ 590
€ 590
€ 590
SHORT DESCRIPTION
Canvas Laceup Boot Military
Calf Leather Classic Sneaker
Suede Classic Sneaker
Vintage Calf Leather Classic Sneaker
Calf Leather Classic Sneaker, contrast tongue and contrast leather heel tab
88
SS 2020
Danby
Bowers
Dixton
Shannon
Pembrey
EDB102_9VJ ETC151_9VE ETB065_9MO EDB101_9VJ EEB337_9XV EDB107_9QO Suede
Castoro Suede
Leather
Suede
Calf leather
Suede
Leather
Leather
Leather
Leather
Leather
Leather
Leather
Leather
Leather
Leather
Leather
Leather
-Sigar -Sand -Ebony -Sigar -Dark blue
-Beige -Black
-Brown -Sigar
-Black
-White
5-13 UK
6-11 UK
5-13 UK
5-13 UK
5-13 UK
5-13 UK
€ 520
€ 590
€ 550
€ 550
€ 850
€ 550
Suede Tassel Loafer
Lace Up Chelsea Derby Boot Boot with elasticated side insert
Superbuck Chelsea Boot with elasticated side insert
Polished Binder Distressed plain lace-up Derby
Suede Penny loafer with hand stitch apron
89
CURRENT COLLECTION RANGE PLAN
PRODUCT NAME
Fisherman
PRODUCT CODE
EX0002_9VJ EX0012_9A- EEB322_9MO EEB322_9VJ EEB320_9MO DJ
Dainton
Duxford
Dingley
MATERIAL - Suede UPPER
Calf leather
Vintage Calf leather
Suede
Vintage Calf leather
LINING
Leather
Leather
Leather
Leather
Leather
SOLE
Leather
Leather
Leather
Leather
Leather
COLORS
-Sigar -Burnt
-Brown
-Black -Beige
-Sigar -Black -Ebony -Brown -Dark blue -Beige
SIZE RANGE 5-13 UK
5-13 UK
5-13 UK
5-13 UK
5-13 UK
RETAIL PRICE
€ 530
€ 520
€ 495
€ 495
€ 495
SHORT DESCRIPTION
Suede Sandal Sigar
Calf Leather cross-over sandal with heel strap
Vintage Calf Leather half brogue lace-up oxford
Suede half brogue lace-up oxford
Vintage Calf Leather classic lace-up oxford with cap toe stitching
90
SS 2020
Drayford
Dawley
EDB103_ 9MO
EDB101 _9AGX
EDB101_9VR
Vintage Calf leather
Calf Leather
Suede
Leather
Leather
Leather
Leather
Leather
Leather
-Black -Brown
-Black -Walnut -Ebony
-White
5-13 UK
5-13 UK
5-13 UK
€ 495
€ 550
€ 550
Vintage Calf leather penny loafer with hand stitch apron
Suede & Gabardine Retro Sneaker, suede and woven panelled design with contoured stitching
Suede Penny loafer with hand stitch detail apron
91
RICK OWENS BOZO ARMY BOOTS INSPIRE CHURCH’S CAPSULE COLLECTION
INSPIRATION
— EASY TO CLOSE
AND ADJUSTABLE FASTENING — PROTECT THE
FEET FROM WEATHER CONDITIONS — SLIPPERY
RESISTANT — FLAT SOLE — WIDE TOE
92
CONCEPT OF THE CAPSULE COLLECTION:
URBAN FUNCTIONALITY
OBJECTIVE:
REJUVENATE THE BRAND
HOW:
NEW DESIGN NEW TECH MATERIALS
93
RE-POSITIONING STRATEGY To position Church’s capsule collection as a contemporary fashion forward footwear brand for young men who enjoy an active urban lifestyle and are looking for functional footwear without losing the heritage of the brand.
WHY? To move Church’s brand into a different positioning in order to capture the Millennials generation.
HOW? REFRESH THE DESIGN Propose a range of new products carachterized by a fresh, extravagant design, suitable for younger customers. ENSURE FUNCTIONALITY The products will be functional and practical, done to be worn in an urban contest. They will ensure the highest protection from the elements thanks a new tech fabric such as Gore-Tex. MANTAIN THE VALUE Durability, which is the brand value, will be ensured by the quality of the materials, and by the specialized craftmanship. New customers will value it even more being durability also a synonymous of sustainability. 94
RE-POSITIONING MAP
Through this capsule collection Church’s will offer new products, increase its price range and compete with more fashionable brands such as Zanotti, Marsèll and Rick Owens. 95
IDEAL CUSTOMER PROFILE
Age: 20-35 Nationality: Any nationality Gender: Man Income: Medium and High income Occupation: Student, Professional Behaviour: Online purchasing, fashionable yet functional seeker, cyclist, laptop owner, value for money Area: European but a traveler, global citizien. Culture: Any culture Social Class: Middle and upper class Psychographics: Achievers Attitude: Neutral Population density: Urban 96
The Collection would be for a young man, who conducts a modern lifestyle, who’s active in the city but enjoys also a weekend in the country. He’s used to buy consciously, so he searchs for high quality and durable product but, being young, wants to say fashionable.
Functionality is his priority, he seeks for comfortable, practical, easy to put and to take off footwear. Considering that he is based in Europe, and there the weather is unpredictable, a good pair of shoes, suitable either for rainy, windy or sunny days would be his best choice. 97
MOODBOARD
98
99
MATERIALS
100
CALF SKIN
POLYESTER
RUBBER
WAXED COTTON
The GORE-TEX membrane, placed on the reverse side of the leather, blocks moisture from the outside, while allowing moisture inside to evaporate. GORE-TEX has over 9 billion pores per square inch that prevent water from getting to your feet while allowing sweat vapor to pass right through, keeping your feet dry and comfortable in all conditions.
GORE-TEX
-WATERPROOF -WINDPROOF -BREATHABLE
101
LINE UP
102
103
MOTORCYCLE BOOTS
DESCRIPTION
MATERIALS
An hiking boot suitable both for the everyday city life and for the country weekends. Metal D-Ring eyelets and the long extravagant lacing stystem make it easy to be worn and even for the wider feet. The GORE-TEX® membrane and the storm welt keep the feet protected at best from water.
Upper: calf leather and GORE-TEX® Lining: calf leather Laces: waxed cotton Hardware: palladium
104
STYLE No. ETC007_9RR_F0B RETAIL PRICE € 820,00
DETAILS — Leather pull-on tap to back — Twelve metal-tone eyelets — Church’s logo on quarter — Goodyear welt construction — Lightweight Church & Co sole — Handwritten shoe info to lining
105
LACE UP ARMY BOOTS
DESCRIPTION
MATERIALS
A rugged lace-up boot with a a militant feel. Metal eyelets and natural calf leather enhance its tough attitude, as do its hardy extra-long cotton laces and practical pull tab. Being a derby it accommodates wider feet. The GORE-TEXÂŽ membrane and the storm welt keep the feet protected at best from water.
Upper: calf leather and GORE-TEXÂŽ Lining: calf leather Laces: waxed cotton Hardware: palladium
106
STYLE No. ETC129_9RR_F0R RETAIL PRICE € 790,00
DETAILS
LACING TECHNIQUE
— Leather pull-on tap to back — Extra long laces — Metal-tone eyelets and double speed eyelets to shaft — Goodyear welt construction — Lightweight Church & Co sole — Handwritten shoe info to lining
107
BACK LACE BOOTS
DESCRIPTION
MATERIALS
A kind of Chelsea Boot shape with an extravagant lacing sistem on the back. Perfect for a motorcycle ride or rocked with a casual denim look. The GORETEX® membrane and the storm welt keep the feet protected at best from water.
Upper: calf leather and GORE-TEX® Lining: calf leather Laces: waxed cotton Hardware: palladium
108
STYLE No. ETB591_9RR_F0B RETAIL PRICE € 790,00 STYLE No. ETB591_9RR_F0W RETAIL PRICE € 790,00
DETAILS
LACING TECHNIQUE
— Lacing details in the back — Zipper side closure — Metal-tone hardware — Goodyear welt construction — Lightweight Church & Co sole — Handwritten shoe info to lining
109
LACED DERBY
DESCRIPTION
MATERIALS
Waterproof classic derby made extravagant with leather loops placed along the toe line, with laces passed through. Perfect for any occasion, casual or more formal. The GORE-TEX® membrane and the storm welt keep the feet protected at best from water.
Upper: calf leather and GORE-TEX® Lining: calf leather Laces: waxed cotton Hardware: palladium
110
STYLE No. EEB071_9BR_F0M RETAIL PRICE € 760,00
DETAILS
LACING TECHNIQUE
— Extra long laces which pass form the toe upper — Goodyear construction with storm welt — Loops on the toe line — Lightweight Church & Co sole — Handwritten shoe info to lining
111
ZIPPED LOAFER
DESCRIPTION
MATERIALS
Waterproof loafer zipped on front features an extravagant side lacing system which passes through the heel. Pefect for an active nightlife. The GORE-TEX® membrane and the storm welt keep the feet protected at best from water.
Upper: calf leather and GORE-TEX® Lining: calf leather Laces: waxed cotton Hardware: palladium
112
STYLE No. EDB561_9RR_F0B RETAIL PRICE € 740,00
DETAILS — Horizontal zipper at front — Metal-tone hardware — Slip-on style — Goodyear construction with storm welt — Lightweight Church & Co sole — Handwritten shoe info to lining
113
ROLL-TOP BACKPACK
DESCRIPTION
MATERIALS
Roomy enough for extra hiking layers and a packed lunch, or gym essentials, books and, in a dedicated pocket, your laptop. The GORE-TEX® membrane keeps your belongings safe.
Bag: calf leather and GORE-TEX® Lining: polyester Laces: polyethylene Hardware: palladium MEASURES W35 x H50 x D15 cm
114
STYLE No. EVV008_9RR_F0B RETAIL PRICE € 1.690,00
LACING TECHNIQUE
DETAILS — Top handle — Elastic bungee cord at front — Laptop pocket at the interior — Two adjustable buckled shoulder straps — Roll-down top with velcro closure — Two exterior water resistant zipper side pockets — Embossed Church’s logo at front
Although visually messy, the underlying zig-zag makes this lacing very tight & secure. Like other straight lacing methods, Straight European Lacing has an additional benefit for sporting or military use.
115
CROSS BODY BAG
DESCRIPTION
MATERIALS
This cross-body bag is the most practical for a busy and active lifestyle. Perfect for any occasion, small but roomy. The GORE-TEX® membrane always keeps your belongings safe.
Bag: calf leather and GORE-TEX® Lining: polyester Laces: waxed Cotton Hardware: palladium MEASURES W19,5 x H25 x D12 cm
116
STYLE No. EVH029_9RR_F0R RETAIL PRICE € 1.250,00
STYLE No. EVH029_9RR_F0W RETAIL PRICE € 1.250,00
DETAILS — Coulisse fastening — Leather top handle — Adjustable and removable laced shoulder strap — Two inner pockets — Palladium finish hardware — Embossed Church’s logo at front
117
LACED SLING BAG
DESCRIPTION
MATERIALS
Sporty and casual it is your ideal city companion. Extra compact, lightweight and transformable in backpack, it’s the perfect small bag for the moving man of today.
Bag: calf leather and GORE-TEX® Lining: polyester Laces: waxed Cotton Hardware: palladium Measures W20 x H31 x D10 cm
118
STYLE No. EVZ004_9RR_F0B RETAIL PRICE € 1.250,00
DETAILS — Zip closure — External zipped pocket — Laced adjustable strap — Palladium finish hardware — Embossed Church’s logo at front
119
BIKER GLOVES
DESCRIPTION
MATERIALS
Water resistant gloves in calf leather keep your hand dry on a motorcycle ride and in the coldest winted days.
Gloves: calf leather and GORE-TEX® Lining: polyester Laces: waxed cotton MEASURES S/M W10 x H23 L/XL W11 x H25
120
STYLE No. EPT033_9RR_F0R RETAIL PRICE € 270,00
STYLE No. EPT033_9RR_F0B RETAIL PRICE € 270,00
DETAILS — Laces fastening — Tonal warm polyester lining
121
NECK WALLET
DESCRIPTION
MATERIALS
Practical zipped wallet with a long strap which allows to wear it around the neck and to close it thanks to a metal lock laces. Perfect to join crowded social events and countryside activities.
Wallet: calf leather Laces: waxed cotton Hardware: palladium
122
MEASURES W10 x H10 x D2 cm Strap: 50 cm
STYLE No. EMO517_9RR_F0B RETAIL PRICE € 350,00
STYLE No. EMO517_9RR_F0W RETAIL PRICE € 350,00
DETAILS — Lace neck strap — Two card slots — Zip fastening — Palladium finish hardware — Money pocket — Embossed Church’s logo at front
123
RING BUCKLE BELT
DESCRIPTION
MATERIALS
Exuding classic elegance, this leather belt features Church’s most iconic buckle. Perfect for any occasion, it is now more functional with the application of a metal ring which handles keychains and wallet chain.
Belt: calf leather Laces: waxed cotton Hardware: palladium
124
MEASURES Belt: W35mm Buckle: H43 x L 3 mm
STYLE No. ECC107_9RR_F0B RETAIL PRICE € 210,00
STYLE No. ECC107_9RR_F0R RETAIL PRICE € 210,00
DETAILS — Palladium finish buckle with church’s logo — Five punch holes — Printed church’s crest to reverse — Topstitching — Church’s Logo on the back
125
HANDWOVEN KEY HOLDER
DESCRIPTION This key holder showcases the height of artisanal craftsmanship. A handwoven leather cable makes it more than a functional accessory. MATERIALS Calf leather Hardware: palladium
126
MEASURES L10 x H2 cm DETAILS — Palladium finish hardware — Carabiner and keyring fastenings — Handwoven leather cable — Embossed Church’s logo
STYLE No. EPN029_9RR_F0B RETAIL PRICE € 190,00
STYLE No. EPN029_9RR_F0R RETAIL PRICE € 190,00
LACING TECHNIQUE Circle stitch made with two strand, the result is the so called Round knot. Two strand of the same lenght are needed. At the end use a little glue to make it stay in place.
127
RANGE PLAN
PRODUCT NAME
Motorcycle Boots
Lace up Army Boots
Back Lace Boots
Laced Derby
MATERIAL - Calf Leather Calf Leather Calf Leather Calf Leather UPPER and GORE-TEX® and GORE-TEX® and GORE-TEX® and GORE-TEX®
LINING
Calf Leather
Calf Leather
Calf Leather
Calf Leather
LACES
Waxed Cotton
Waxed Cotton
Waxed Cotton
Waxed Cotton
SOLE
Rubber
Rubber
Rubber
Rubber
HARDWARE
Palladium
Palladium
Palladium
COLORS
-Black
-Brown
-White
-Black/Brown
-Black
SIZES
5-13 UK
5-13 UK
5-13 UK
5-13 UK
RETAIL PRICE
€ 820
€ 790
€ 790
€ 760
SHORT DESCRIPTION
Waterproof Hiking Boots with 12 D-ring eyelets and logo at external side.
Waterproof Army Boots with extra long laces.
Waterproof boots with lacing detail on the back, side zipped.
Waterproof Derby with loops on toe line and laces passing trough.
128
Zipped Loafer
Roll-top Backpack
Laced Sling Bag
Cross-body bag
Calf Leather and GORE-TEX®
Calf Leather and GORE-TEX®
Calf Leather and GORE-TEX®
Calf Leather, GORE-TEX® and Polyester
Calf leather
Polyester
Polyester
Polyester
Waxed Cotton
Polyethylene
Waxed Cotton
Waxed cotton
Palladium
Palladium
-Brown
-Brown/Black
Rubber Palladium -Black
-Black
-White/Black
5-13 UK
35x50x15 cm
20x31x10 cm
19,5x25x12 cm
€ 740
€ 1.690
€ 1.250
€ 1.250
Waterproof Zipped Loafer with laces which pass across the heel.
Waterproof Hiking Backpack with elastic bungee cords.
Waterproof Leather Sling Bag with laced strap transformable in a backpack.
Waterproof Cross-body Bag with laced shoulder strap and coulisse closure.
129
PRODUCT NAME
Biker Gloves
Ring Buckle Belt
MATERIAL - Calf Leather Calf Leather UPPER and GORE-TEX®
Neck Wallet
Handwoven Key Holder
Calf Leather Calf Leather and GORE-TEX®
LINING
Polyester
HARDWARE
Palladium
Palladium
Palladium
Palladium
COLORS
-Black
-Black
-Black
-Brown/Black
-Brown
-Brown
-White
-Brown/White
SIZES
S/M, L/XL
60-120 cm
10x10x2 cm
10x2 cm
RETAIL PRICE
€ 270
€ 210
€ 350
€ 190
SHORT DESCRIPTION
Waterproof Biker Gloves with laces fastening on top
Leather Belt with a functional Ring for Key Holders.
Neck Wallet with a 50 cm Strap and Zip Fastening.
Handwoven Leather Cable and Embossed Logo.
130
€1
90
-35
0
€7
40
-82
0
€1 .25 0-1 .
69 0
PRICE ARCHITECTURE
ENTRY PRICE
TOP PRICE
131
ANNEX
132
COMPETITIVE PRICING ANALYISIS
Church’s
Ferragamo
Tod’s
Zanotti
Capsule
Boots
€ 620
€ 750
€ 680
€ 850
€ 820
Derbys
€ 690
€ 600
€ 500
€ 650
€ 760
Mocassin
€ 570
€ 600
€ 540
€ 695
€ 740
Backpack € 1.450
€ 1.490
€ 1.700
€ 995
€ 1.690
Crossbody Bag Silng bag
€ 1.100
€ 850
€ 1.400
-
€ 1.250
€ 1.100
€ 950
-
-
€ 1.250
Wallet
€ 300
€ 300
€ 255
€ 375
€ 350
Gloves
-
€ 250
-
-
€ 270
Belt
€ 170
€ 350
€ 225
€ 375
€ 210
Keychain
€ 150
€ 200
€ 135
-
€ 190
All prices in the table above are average prices of products which are similar in terms of design and materials to the ones developed in the capsule collection. 133
COLLECT REQUIREMENTS - Final Project INPUTS
TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES
SOURCES
1 GENERAL INFOS ABOUT BOOTS 1.1 Define a boot
Browser research Website
1.2 Research the history
Browser research Website
1.3 Research about the types 1.4 Anatomy analysis
Books Interview
1.5 Pattern of a boot 1.6 Production analysis
Polimoda Professor Books
Browser research Websites
1.6.1 Visual 1.6.2 Theorical 1.6.3 Machines
Browser research Websites
1.7 Latest new tech
Browser research Websites
1.8 Boots Panorama 2020
Browser research Websites
2 ASSIGNED (RICK OWENS) BOOTS ANALYSIS 2.1 Study the brand 2.1.1 Research history
Browser research Websites
2.1.2 Research identity 2.1.3 Research customer 2.1.4 Diffusion lines
Browser research Websites
2.1.5 Iconic pieces
Browser research Websites
2.2 Study the last collection
Browser research Websites
2.2.1 Themes 2.2.2 Collaborations 2.2.3 Range Plan 2.3
Study of Bozo Army Boot 2.3.1 Measures
Ssense CS
2.3.2 Runway looks
Browser research Website
2.3.3 Previous version
Social media
Socials
2.3.4 Materials involved
Discussion
Polimoda Professor
2.3.5 Construcion
Oral Lesson
Polimoda Professor
2.3.6 Tech specs 2.3.7 Costs
134
Polimoda Professor
2.3.7.1 Material
Desk research
2.3.7.2 Labour
Desk research
2.3.7.3 Final
Desk research
3 DEVELOPMENT OF TWO ALTENATIVES 3.1 Sustainable alternative 3.1.1 Construction
Desk research
3.1.2 Tech specs 3.1.33 Costs
Desk research
3.2 Durable alternative 3.2.1 Construction
Desk research
3.2.2 Tech Specs 3.2.3 Costs
Desk research
4 DEVELOPMENT A CAPSULE COLLECTION 4.1 Chose a brand 4.1.1 Research the group
Browser research Websites
4.1.2 Research the brand
Browser research Websites
4.1.2.1 Research History Browser research Websites 4.1.2.2 Research Identity Browser research Websites 4.1.2.3 Target market 4.1.2.4 Positioning map 4.1.2.5 Range Plan SS20 Browser research Websites 4.3 Moodboard 4.3.1 Concept 4.3.2 Colors palette 4.4 Re-positioning strategy 4.4.1 Target market 4.5 Materials
Desk research
4.6 Line up 4.7 Range plan 4.8 Pricing analysis
Browser research Websites
135
WBS - Boots production Boots production process 1. Design 1.2
Design Brief
Design team
1.3
Sketch
Design team
1.4
CAD System drawing
Designers
1.5
Design Approval
Design manager and Product Manager
1.6
Spec sheet development
Product Management team
1.6.1 Materials sourcing
Product Management team
1.6.2 Colors sourcing
Design/Product Management team
1.6.3 Suppliers specs
Product Management team
1.6.4 Measures developing
Design/Product Management team
1.7
Spec sheet Approval
1.8
Last
1.9
Pattern Making
1.10
Product Management team Pattern making team
1.9.1 Patterns trial
Pattern/Product Management team
1.9.2 Patterns approval
Pattern/Product Management team
Sample production
Product Management team
1.10.1 Materials purchase
Product Management team
1.10.2 Sample construction
Production team
1.10.3 Sample approval
Designers and Product Managers
2. Production 2.1
Materials purchase
Product Management team
2.1.1 Leather 2.1.2 Laces 2.1.3 Hardware 2.1.4 Sole 2.1.5 Sock, Texon 2.1.6 Quality Control
Quality control inspectors
2.2
Machines set up
Production team
2.3
Assembly line
Production team
2.3.1 Leather preparation 2.3.1.1 Cutting
Production team
2.3.1.2 Edges skiving
Production team
2.3.2 Upper stitching
136
Production team
Production team
2.3.2.1 Vamp stitching
Production team
2.3.2.2 Tongue stitching
Production team
2.3.2.3 Pull loop stitching
Production team
2.3.2.4 Reinforcements
Production team
2.3.2.5 Quality Control
Quality control inspectors
2.3.3 Lining stitching
Production team
2.3.4 Eyelets punching
Production team
2.3.5 3D shaping
Production team
2.3.6 Last molding
Production team
2.3.7 Leather trimming
Production team
2.3.8 Welt making
Production team
2.3.9 Sock placing
Production team
2.3.9.1 Logo impression
Production team
2.3.10 Sole cementing
Production team
2.3.11 Laces application
Production team
2.4
Quality Control
Quality control team
2.5
Packing
Production team
3. Shipping
137
PROJECT NETWORK DIAGRAM - Boots production
Design 2w
Specs development 3d
Pattern making 2d
Materials order 2w
Raw materials Quality Contro 3d
GANTT CHART - Capsule Collection W1 Concept creation Collection definition Design process Specifications Bill of materials Pattern making Samples production Bags production Shoes production Others production Pre-sales Sales forecasts Production Bags production Shoes production Others production Quality Control Shipping
138
W2
W3
W4
W5
W6
W7
W8
W9
s ol
Sample production 1w
Packing 2d
Production 2w
Approval 5d
Logistics 1w
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
139
NOTES 1
Boot definition, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boot
2 Bottega Veneta debuts “100 per cent biodegradable� boot, https://www.dezeen.com/2020/03/04/bottega-veneta-biodegradable-boots-milan-fashion-week/ 3 Swiss brand On moves from running to hiking with lightweight boot, https://www.dezeen.com/2019/08/12/cloudrock-waterproof-swiss-running-on-hiking-boots/ 4 Rick Owens rebels against donald trump by celebrating his own mexican-american dream, https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/ mb84kn/rick-owens-spring-summer-20-mens-paris-show 5 Rick Owens for iD-Magazine, after SS2020 Runway Show, https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/mb84kn/rick-owens-springsummer-20-mens-paris-show 6 Rick Owens on what makes a men, https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/rickowens-on-what-makes-a-man
BIBLIOGRAPHY Fashionary Team, Fashionpedia. The visual dictionary of fashion design, Fashionary International Ltd, China, 2019. Fashionary Team, Shoe Design, Fashionary International Ltd, China, 2016. Motawi Wade, Motawi Andrea, How Shoes are Made: A behind the scenes look at a real sneaker factory, Motawi Wade, California, 2018.
140
SITOGRAPHY Boot, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boot History of Boots, https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/ fashion-accessories/boots How leather boots are made, https://blog.thursdayboots.com/ design/how-leather-boots-are-made/ Machines and technologies guide, https://www.assomac.it/ pubblico/en Bottega Veneta debuts “100 per cent biodegradable” boot, https://www.dezeen.com/2020/03/04/bottega-veneta-biodegradable-boots-milan-fashion-week/ Swiss brand On moves from running to hiking with lightweight boot, https://www.dezeen.com/2019/08/12/cloudrock-waterproof-swiss-running-on-hiking-boots/ Rick Owens Official website, https://www.rickowens.eu/en/IT The Rick Owens aesthetic vocabulary, https://www.polimoda.com/ rick-owens-aesthetic/ Your ultimate guide to Rick Owens, https://www.dazeddigital. com/fashion/article/34382/1/your-ultimate-guide-to-rick-owens Rick Owens: What to Know About the Designer and Brand, https:// www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/master-class-rick-owens Rick Owens on what makes a men, https://www.businessoffashion. com/articles/intelligence/rick-owens-on-what-makes-a-man I pezzi iconici di Rick Owens dai Cargo Trousers alle Geobasket, https://www.nssmag.com/it/fashion/10647/i-pezziiconici-di-rick-owens-dai-cargo-trousers-alle-geobasket Rick Owens’ Sports-Indebted Champion Capsule Has Just Dropped, https://hypebeast.com/2020/2/rick-owens-champion-spring-summer2020-tecuatl-collection-runway-pieces-release-info Rick Owens SS2020 Menswear, https://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/spring-2020-menswear/rick-owens Rick Owens rebels against donald trump by celebrating his own mexican-american dream, https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/
141
mb84kn/rick-owens-spring-summer-20-mens-paris-show Rick Owens responds to Trump’s wall by exploring his Mexicanness for SS20, https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/ article/44948/1/rick-owens-trump-wall-mexico-paris-fashionweek-tecuatl-ss20-paris-fashion-week Sneakers Uomo 2020: Rick Owens collabora con VEJA, https://www. vogue.it/moda/article/sneakers-uomo-2020-rick-owens-veja Rick Owens and Veja Team Up for Two Sustainable Footwear Styles https://hypebeast.com/2020/2/rick-owens-veja-sustainablesneakers You Can Work out in Rick Owens Now Thanks to New Champion Collab, https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/rick-owens-championss20/ Rick Owens’ Insane $1,890 Bondage-Inspired SS20 Military Boots Just Dropped, https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/rick-owenstecuatl-army-boots-release-date-price/ Rick Owens Black Bozo Army Boots, https://www.ssense.com/en-us/ men/product/rick-owens/black-bozo-army-boots/4835951 Materials users guide, https://www.texon.com/wp-content/ uploads/2018/01/Texon-Material-User-Guide4.3-WEB.pdf Cementing, https://www.findsourcing.com/articles/construction/ cementing Nike designs Space Hippie footwear to have “lowest carbon footprint scores ever”, https://www.dezeen.com/2020/02/07/nikespace-hippie-recycled-trainer/ New Rock Catalog, https://www.newrock.com/areaprivada/ NRcatalog.pdf Complete Guide on Thermoplastic Polyurethanes (TPU), https:// omnexus.specialchem.com/selection-guide/thermoplasticpolyurethanes-tpu Prada Group Company Profile, https://www.pradagroup.com/ content/dam/pradagroup/documents/2020/marzo/inglese/Company%20 Profile%20Prada%20Group_marzo_2_ENG.pdf Church’s Official website, https://www.church-footwear.com John Lobb Official website, https://www.johnlobb.com/en_eu/ 142
Salvatore Ferragamo Official website, https://www.ferragamo. com/shop/ita/it Tod’s Official website, https://www.tods.com/it-it/home.html
143
144
145
146