INDIA IMMEMORIAL by Narayan m

India Immemorial Cover Story

November, 2009 • Rs. 75/- • Issue 2 • Vol 1

India’s first monthly heritage magazine

CHANDERI

The magical allure of Chanderi sarees

•••

RAJASTHAN The Rustic Charm of

Pushkar

A holy place famous for its Pushkar Lake and the Shri Brahma Temple, it is known the world over for its fair, famously called the Pushkar ka mela.

••• MYSORE

The Jayalakshmi Vilas Mansion houses a remarkable collection of folk culture

an India Inc. Group Publication

2 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

India Immemorial • Vol-1 • Issue - 2 • November 2009

Editorial Editor Vijay Madhav Chief Features Editor Chethana Dinesh Associate Directors Anushree Das - Mumbai Rajini N - Bangalore Business Development Sonali Shinde - Mumbai 099874 03467 Dipti Nagendran - Bangalore 9972162004 Kavyashree - Mysore 9986563587 Photographer D C Nagesh Design Anekal Narayana Sole distributor in India

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• Heritage Matters

Indian heritage abroad

n India, efforts are being made by the Central and State governments to preserve and promote heritage assets. Our heritage-conscious fellowmen are not lagging behind either. It was heartening to note that recently, in Shimla, students organised a heritage walk as part of the World Tourism Week celebrations in order to promote tourism and spread awareness about protecting buildings and monuments of historic importance.

Vice Regal Lodge

The students of Masters of Administration of the Himachal Pradesh University, along with residents of the small town and tourists, walked through the roads of Shimla covering ten heritage sites including Gaiety Theatre, Shimla Municipal Council Building, Scandal Point, General Post Office building, Telegraph Office, Gorton Castle and the Vice Regal Lodge. While on the 2.5 km walk, students narrated the importance of monuments to tourists accompanying them.

Such heritage walks, if held in all the cities that are home to heritage monuments, will definitely go a long way in highlighting the importance of heritage monuments. Unfortunately, heritage monuments within the country apart, little effort is made to restore heritage landmarks connected with India’s history, culture and freedom struggle found abroad. Ignorance is the main culprit. For instance, the Gadar Ashram, founded by Lala Hardayal in San Francisco to win American support in 1912-13, is in ruins. The Samadhi of Harindra Nath Chattopadhyay (brother of Sarojini Naidu), who worked in Germany to gather European support for Indian Independence, in Berlin, is in ruins. The grave of Jim Corbett in Nyeri is in a pathetic condition. Well! There are many more other places abroad, connected with India’s heritage and history. If only, our people in power make some efforts to restore them. This will only add to the reputation of India abroad and, of course, the pride of Indians. Dear Readers, I take this opportunity to thank you all for your esteemed support to India Immemorial. The magazine was not only received well by you all, but appreciated as well. This positive encouragement has enthused us to strive harder to provide you with informative articles and features. My heartfelt thanks to you all! With my due acknowledgments to Prince Laksraj of Udaipur and members of the Royal Family of Jaipur for their appreciation of our effort, I conclude. - VIJAY MADHAV vmadhav@indiainccom.com Cover page photo by Massarath Ali Khan, taken at Pushkar, Rajasthan. Printed and Published by Vijay Madhav on behalf of India Inc. Communications wide DM order MAG(2)CR/ PRB/137/07-08. Printed at Onyx Printers, #21, III Main Road, B.S.K. III Stage, Bangalore-560085. Worldwide rights reserved. Reproduction or translation in any language in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. Opinions carried in India Immemorial are the writers’ and not necessarily endorsed by the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the return of unsolicited material or for material lost or damaged in transit. All disputes are subject to the exclusive jurisdiction of competent courts and forums in Bangalore only.

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 3

Contents

Cover Story

The Rustic Charm of Pushkar A holy place famous for its Pushkar Lake and the Shri Brahma Temple, it is known the world over for its fair, famously called the Pushkar ka mela.

18 Discovering India The mystique of Udaipur

Heritage Redefined 24 The City Palace in Udaipur is a harmonious

blend of architectural marvels of various rulers.

Art & Culture 28 Amaravati in Andhra Pradesh is a rare site of cultural confluence 4 â&#x20AC;˘ November 2009 â&#x20AC;˘ India Immemorial

Artefacts 32 The Jayalakshmi Vilas Mansion in Mysore

houses a remarkable collection of folk culture

Looking Back

36 The fort city of Mandu

Traditional Musical Instruments

40 Veena, for notes sublime

The folk dances of North India

Wildlife

Art & Craft

42 Artistry behind Chanderi sarees

Culture Curry

46 Photo Feature

Focus is on the Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve in Maharashtra

Hospitality

Celebrating innocence!

The Koder House Hotel in Kochi is royalty personified

Traditional Health Practices Discover the goodness of amla

Taste of India Catch a whiff of traditional Avadhi cuisine

Incredible India Defying gravity at the Magnetic Hill in Ladakh

Ancient Art 54 Excellent terracotta temples of Vishnupur in West Bengal

In Memoriam Raj Kapoor, the original showman

Cityscape

58 At home in Hyderabad

Beautiful India The Valley of Flowers in the Himalayas, the

66 fairy land of India

Travelogue 90

Celebrating snow in the valleys of Kullu & Manali

Regular Features

Shopping 70 Haggle your way through the many flea markets of Goa

Monthly Forecast Vaastu Yoga Cuisine

48 51 53 82

India Immemorial â&#x20AC;˘ November 2009 â&#x20AC;˘ 5

In Brief

When Sun God reigns supreme…

hhath puja was recently celebrated in northern India. An ancient festival dedicated to the Sun God, it is one of the most important festivals of Bihar and the adjacent parts of eastern Uttar Pradesh and the terai regions of Nepal. It is a festival of nature worship and some believe that it might even predate the vedas. The Rig Veda has hymns for the Sun god and a similar ritual is also mentioned in the Sanskrit epic Mahabharata in which Draupadi, the wife of the Pandavas, and Karna, who was considered to be the son of the Sun god, are depicted as observing similar rites. With the migration of people of Bihar and UP to other states, the festival has spread to most major cities of northern India. The festival is celebrated twice every year, once in summer during the Hindu month of Chaitra and then in winter during Kartik. The Kartik Chhath is more popular. The word Chhath denotes the number six and accordingly the festival begins on the sixth day of Chaitra and Kartik. Unlike Holi and Diwali and other festivals of northern India, Chhath is more of a ritual practice and it requires rather arduous observance. The main worshiper, called parvaitin (usually women), is required to follow a period of abstinence and segregation

for four days. A devotee cannot become a ‘parvaitin’ unless the mantle is passed on to her by an elderly devotee who is observing Chhath for the family. Once started, the worshipper has to continue without any break till the time she is physically not capable of undergoing the strenuous observance. The festival is only skipped in a year in which a death occurs in the family. When the worshipper is physically incapable, the mantle is passed on to another able candidate — typically the wife of the eldest son or some relative.

Rituals The four-day festival is known for its arduous rituals. The house and its surroundings are cleaned on Chhath eve. On the first day, which is called Naha-Kha, the worshipper is allowed to have two meals a day which are made in rock salt and pure ghee without any use of garlic and onions. A typical meal is split chickpeas, pulses, bottle gourd, vegetables and basmati rice. The second day is called Kharna and on this day the worshipper has to fast from daybreak to sundown. The fast ends after the sunset, when the worshipper offers

prayers and prasad to the Sun god and eats the meal, which is typically kheer and chapati. Friends and family are invited to the household on this day to share the prasad of the ritual. From this meal onwards, for almost the next 36 hours, the worshipper goes on fast without water. Most of the third day is spent in making prasad, which is typically Thakua (a Bihari fried cookie-like food) and Kasara (laddu of rice powder). Bamboo baskets are filled with thakua, kasara, sugarcane, radish, sprouted gram, kidney bean, turmeric, coconut, orange, sweet lime, banana and other fruits and sweets, typically peda. These are carried to a river bank on the heads of male members of the family. The devotees stand in mid-water with oblation of the prasad filled in winnowing bamboo baskets. The setting Sun is worshipped and the devotee returns home after sunset. The same bathing ritual is repeated on the following day at the crack of dawn and this announces the finish of the ritual.

It happens only in India

It sure is a world for all

any generations ago, the then maharaja of the kingdom, Alaa Singh, saw a bitch consume 50 kg of opium and still stand as unwavering as the Statue of Liberty. Impressed, the king, who was the founder of the Patiala dynasty and lived during 1695-1765, announced that dogs had great powers and needed to be revered. Alaa Singh then not only granted the bitch ownership of a sprawling 150-bigha estate, but ordered that dogs would receive the first bhog (offering) at the main temple in Khanpur. Unknown to most outside Patiala, the diktat, cast in stone by villagers, is followed to this day and dogs get to eat before worshippers

6 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

at the temple — all three meals of the day. Following tradition, head priest Anand Giri comes out thrice to the temple gate each day and, before food is served to villagers, starts howling like a dog to call the canines to the table. Within minutes a bunch of dogs gather and are, with the due respect reserved for them, offered the best that the langar (community kitchen) has on its menu. “It’s an old tradition and I always bark out to all the dogs here before the start of a langar,’’ Giri said. “Dogs are actually more than dogs.” Fellow villager Khushdeep Singh added, “We never treat dogs the way others do. In

fact, we never even raise a finger when our children are attacked or crops destroyed.” But the good run that started for dogs here hundreds of years ago, may just be completing its course. The younger generation, though still unable to rebel against what they see as a weird ritual, are both dismissive and embarrassed. “You know,’’ said Gursevak Singh, a school student, “it’s okay to treat dogs well, but to worship them and make them eat before us is ridiculous. Though we have got used to it because almost everyone here behaves that way, it becomes awkward when we have visitors. To hear the priest howling like that is just too much.”

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Rs. 3000/-

In Brief

A museum on Ray

museum on film maestro Satyajit Ray is being planned by the Indian Railways, adjacent to the Rs 56 crore Railway Stadium at Behala near here. The foundation for the same was laid by Railways Minister Mamata Banerjee recently. “I’ve seen my father playing cricket in the maidan in central Calcutta and winning a shield. Apart from films, he had a fascination for badminton,” Sandip Ray, film director and son of Satyajit Ray, said at the function, much to the surprise of the assembled guests. Recalling how Satyajit Ray drew his inspiration in cricket from his grandpa who used to play wonderful cricket in those days, Ray’s son observed that various mementoes on sports are actually lying scattered in their residence. “I’ll be extremely glad if the Railways could plan a proper museum for their display,” Sandip said.

Where have the monuments gone? Digest this: About 5 km from Devanahalli airport, there was an ancient megalith monument that is no longer there. Again, just off Hennur main road, in and around Kannur, several similar monuments are no longer seen! While some conservationists blame it on urbanisation which makes tracing of monuments very difficult, others wish for the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) to do a GPS survey of monuments so that the co-ordinates of each monument are established. According to officials concerned, out of 3,675 centrally protected monuments and sites, 35 across the country are untraceable. Main causes attributed for the disappearance of these monuments are urbanisation, commercialisation and implementation of development projects. While Delhi tops the list with 12 missing monuments, Karnataka has one, a pre-historic site in Kittur, Mysore district. The list is only part of the entire missing story. For, there are several other unprotected monuments for which there is no information. With lack of listing and documentation by state governments and urban development authorities, officials concerned have no idea of the quantum of heritage lost over time. They want a database of heritage stock of unprotected monuments of each place to be built up by the urban development or district authorities. •

Karnataka: Pre-historic site, Kittur, Mysore district.

•

Delhi: Moti Gate of Sher Shah’s Delhi; Mauza Babarpur Bazidpur tomb with three domes near railway station, Nizamuddin; Inchla Wali Gumti, village Mubarakpur, Kotla.

•

Arunachal Pradesh: Ruins of copper temple near Paya, Lohit district.

•

Assam: Guns of Emperor Sher Shah at Na-sadia, Tinsukia district.

•

Jammu & Kashmir: Visveswara and other cave temples, Basohli, Kathua district.

8 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

According to him, apart from the museum, the proposed railway stadium should house a modern library where latest development on global sports can be accessed. “For instance, I have some documentaries on Olympics which I can always share with budding sportsmen,” he added. Mamata Benerjee said that IRCON, a subsidiary of Railways, will be constructing this state-of-the-art stadium which will have both indoor and outdoor games facilities. The outdoor stadium will have a capacity of 20,000 spectators.

Traditions may get Heritage tag

he world-famous Dasara celebrations in Mysore, Kodava culture in Kodagu, Bahubali Mahamastabhisheka in Shravanabelagola, Yakshagana of coastal Karnataka, Soliga tribes of Biligiri Rangaiah Hills and leather puppetry of Bellary — all these may soon become part of Unesco’s heritage list. The Government of Karnataka has forwarded these to the Centre to be placed before Unesco under ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage Scheme’.

Jain scriptures

in digitised form

arly next year, Jainpedia, a digitised encyclopaedia of over 4,000 Jain manuscripts, some dating back to the ninth century BC, will be thrown open to public. It is the brainchild of the Institute of Jainology (IoJ), formed in 1983 mainly by the Jain diaspora in Britain. The collection of manuscripts includes scriptures from British institutions like the Victoria and Albert Museum, British Library, Bodleian Library and Wellcome Trust. According to Mehool Sanghrajka, IoJ’s director of education, many have beautifully illustrated folios on paper, cloth and palm leaves with a diverse range of subjects related to Jain beliefs, traditions and practices. The manuscripts cover areas like hymns and prayers, accounts of the lives of the founders of Jainism, didactic literature, lexicography, poetics, philosophy, astrology, karma literature, texts on pilgrimage places and on daily rituals or festivals.

Most manuscripts have travelled with British officers posted in India who returned after independence. For example, the British library’s collection (1,100 manuscripts from the 13th century) includes the Colebrooke collection which originally belonged to the India Office Library and contains Jain manuscripts which were copied in Eastern India. Then, there’s the William Erskine Collection which was bought in 1865 from the British officer, a polymath who also worked on Persian. Another Briton Cecil Bendall’s collection too includes scripts which he unruffled for his personal interest. While compiling these catalogues, the IoJ realised that the collections were being used only by scholars and learned monks and nuns. That’s when IoJ decided to make the collection accessible to a wider audience. This question of access was multi-faceted —

While Unesco has included monuments and cultural heritage sites, this time it has taken an initiative to recognise intangible heritage. “The six events are our festivals, practices, culture and dances. These have the rich tradition of heritage and I hope that all six will qualify,’’ said B R Jayaramaraje Urs, secretary, Kannada and Culture Department. The government has provided documentation and CDs explaining the importance of the chosen six. It took the help of Jyothi Hosaagrahara, professor in the University of Columbia, experts in Unesco projects and noted historian Suryanath Kamath to document the proposed subjects. Unesco seeks to encourage the identification, protection and preservation of cultural and natural heritage. This is embodied in a treaty: the Convention concerning the Protection of World Cultural and Natural Heritage. Selection criteria

physical contact with these manuscripts is difficult as some are rare, many centuries old and fragile. Even if one could get to them, many are in languages that have not been spoken for a very long time. And, if one could perchance read the script, the contents are themselves difficult without an understanding of Jain philosophy, history and culture. And so, to make them more intelligible, the digitised images will be contextualised with commentaries from modern scholars, audio and video material and translations of the original texts apart from material for schools and young people. The site will also offer reference material. Even Jain elders and members of Jain trusts in Mumbai have given Jainpedia the thumbsup. According to an independent research, over 3 lakh people would benefit from the project. A series of lectures is being planned by IoJ to create awareness about the website in Mumbai.

•

Access to World Heritage Fund. Annually, about US$4 million is made available to assist in identifying, preserving and promoting World Heritage Sites.

•

Emergency assistance to repair damage caused by human-made or natural disasters.

•

World Heritage concept is well-understood, and sites on the list are a magnet for international co-operation; may receive financial assistance for heritage conservation projects from a variety of sources.

•

Brings increased public awareness of its values and steps up tourist activities.

World Heritage List Includes 890 properties: 689 cultural, 176 natural and 25 mixed properties in 148 State Parties.

•

Must be of outstanding universal value.

Sites In India

•

Represent a masterpiece of human creative genius.

•

Exhibit an important interchange of human values over a span of time or within a cultural area of the world.

•

Bear unique or exceptional testimony to a cultural tradition which is living or has disappeared.

Group of Monuments at Hampi; Group of Monuments at Pattadakal (both in Karnataka); Agra Fort; Ajanta Caves; Ellora Caves; Taj Mahal; Group of Monuments at Mahabalipuram; Sun Temple, Konark; Manas Wildlife Sanctuary; Kaziranga National Park; Keoladeo National Park; Churches and Convents of Goa; Fatehpur Sikri; Khajuraho Group of Monuments; Elephanta Caves; Great Living Chola Temples; Sundarbans National Park; Nanda Devi and Valley of Flowers National Parks; Buddhist Monuments at Sanchi; Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi; Qutb Minar and its Monuments, Delhi; Mountain Railways of India; Mahabodhi Temple Complex at Bodh Gaya; Rock Shelters of Bhimbetka; Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park; Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (formerly Victoria Terminus) and Red Fort Complex.

Benefits •

Overarching benefit is that of belonging to an international community of appreciation.

•

Concern for universally significant properties which are examples of cultural diversity and natural wealth.

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 9

Photos by author

Cover Story

The Rustic Charm of

Pushkar 10 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

Pushkar in Rajashtan, the valorous land of myths and legends, is a melange of various colours and moods. An enigma in itself, it is a small town visited by people for various reasons. A holy place famous for its Pushkar Lake and the Shri Brahma Temple, it is known the world over for its fair, famously called the Pushkar ka mela.

ushkar nestles amidst the majestic Aravalli Hills on three sides and sand dunes on the other. A serpentine road, Nag Pahad (Snake Mountain), forms the natural barrier between Ajmer and Pushkar. Pushkar is an ancient town full of legends, religious myths and faiths, ashrams, temples, and dharamshalas. It is said to have existed in the time of Lord Rama. Kalidas was so much captivated by the charm and magic of this peaceful and sleepy town that he immortalised it in his classic Abhigyana Shakuntalam. Pushkar is very sacred to the Hindus and is referred to as ‘Tirth Raj’ or the King of all pilgrimage centres. The Great Hindu epics of Mahabharata and Ramayana refer to it as ‘Adi Tirtha’. Come Kartika month and thousands of traders – with their camels, horses, bulls, cows and sheep – majestically wend their way through the golden sands to converge at Pushkar, not to mention the millions of domestic and foreign tourists who arrive well in advance to savour the rustic charm of the desert!

The Pushkar Fair, popularly known as Pushkar ka mela, begins on Ashtami day (8th day of the Kartika month) and lasts till Kartika Poornima (full moon).The first 4-5 days are meant for the fair and trading of animals and the second half is reserved for religious activities. This fair coincides with the holy dip in the Pushkar Lake and a pilgrimage to the Shri Brahma Temple – the only one of its kind dedicated to Lord Brahma in the entire country. As the early morning mist of the desert gives way to a warm sunshine, the traders busy themselves in cooking rotis and sipping tea at the golden sands while the camels bask in the early morning sunlight in the desert.

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 11

Cover Story Later in the day, traders start erecting rows of makeshift stalls. These stalls sell lovely colourful bangles, beads, necklaces, embroidered shawls, clothes embedded with mirrors, textiles, ethnic jewellery, costume jewellery, miniature paintings, beautiful wall hangings, shoulder bags, blue pottery, puppets, brass utensils, leather goods, ropes… the list is endless. The villagers go on a shopping spree, while the women busy themselves with the purchase of textiles like odhnis, ghagras,

12 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

leharia fabrics, intricate silver ornaments, hairpins, and what not….. Not to be missed are the exclusive stalls for camels, selling handmade saddles to fit every hump, long strings of cowries, beads, colourfully woven saddle straps, and embroidered back covers. An Art and Craft Bazar (Shilpgram), Rural Grama Haat (Exhibition Ground) Pushkar Udyog Craft Mela (opp. RTDC Tourist Village) help the Rajasthani craftsmen to sell their produce to the tourists.

As the sun sets and the sands cool down, people naturally feel inclined towards cultural programmes. Generally, a camel race starts off the festival, with music, songs and exhibitions to follow. Most of the events are held at Mela Ground, Cattle Ground and Exhibition Grounds. Pushkar Parikrama, a spiritual walk, is organised from Brahma Temple. Turbaned men with proud moustaches and veiled beauties

in gaily coloured attires and heavy jewellery overwhelm with their cheerfulness, while the local artists amuse the tourists with cultural dances of Rajasthan. Thousands of tourists enjoy the camel dance competition. Young girls dressed in their best red bridal wear, take part in the Indian Bride Competition, which is a special attraction of the fair. A Matka Race (water pot race) is organised for women. The locals and the tourists actively participate in the Matka Phod competition.

Moustache Competition, wrestling competition and turban tying competition are organised for men. Local women sitting on the way, create intricate patterns on hands and feet with the beautiful Rajasthani Mehendi (henna). Many foreign tourists deem it a privilege to get their palms decorated with these flowery designs. Puppet shows bring their own charm and beauty with their lively tales. Snake charmers attract large crowds here and there, even as foreign tourists vie to capture the memorable events in their camera! With colourfully dressed musicians, acrobats, folk dancers, comedians - all displaying their best artistic skills - Pushkar transforms into a riot of colours and reverberates with romance and music. Pushkar is one place where man-animal relationships acquire a new meaning! The camels are washed, lovingly scrubbed and perfumed. Then they are bedecked in their best finery and silver bells; and silver jewellery is tied around their necks - all for a camels’ beauty contest. The camels are judged on the basis of their gait, humped beauties, and the ability to obey their master’s commands. The owner of a newly acquired camel walks away proudly, showing his new friend to the tourists around. Yet another interesting event, namely ‘Laddoo Oonth’, demonstrates how much weight the camel can carry. One after another, a number of people – as many as possible clamber on to the back of the camel, until the

camel dislodges the burden and all the people come down crashing. Some tourists take time to enjoy the rustic charm of the desert on a camel safari. All this action continues for the first four days of the fair. The next 4-5 days are reserved for religious rituals and the focus shifts to the prime attraction - Pushkar Lake and Brahma Temple. The Pushkar Lake is considered as one of the most sacred spots, as old as the creation itself. Padma Purana, the Hindu religious text, elaborately describes the origin and importance of this Lake. Lord Brahma was in search of a suitable place for performing a Vedic yagna (a sacrificial ritual). A lotus fell from his hand and struck the earth at three different places within a circuit of 9 km. Water gushed forth, from all the three places, and Brahma named these three places as Pushkar (lotus), distinguishing them as Jyeshtha (elder), Madhya (central) and Kanishtha (younger). He performed the yagna at Jyeshtha Pushkar from Kartik Shukla Ekadashi to Kartika Poornima, making it a miraculously created divine spot. Lakhs of devotees from all over the world assemble and bathe in the holy waters of Pushkar Lake. One dip in the waters of Pushkar Lake on Kartika Poornima ocassion is believed to be equivalent to performing yagnas for several hundred years. There is also a belief that no pilgrimage to Char Dham (the four principal pilgrim centres, namely Badrinath at Uttaranchal, Jagannath at Orissa,

Puskhar Fair is the world’s largest camel fair held in the holy town of Pushkar. The festival hosts around 50,000 camels which are sold, decorated, shaved and raced. This year’s Pushkar Fair is held from October 25 to November 2

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 13

Cover Story Rameshwaram at Tamil Nadu and Dwaraka at Gujarat) would bear fruit unless one bathes in the holy waters of Pushkar Lake. There are 52 ghats built around the Pushkar Lake, but it’s Brahma Ghat that is most famous. The water around each ghat is supposed to have special curative properties. The Nag Kund gives fertility; the Roop Tirth gives beauty and charm, and the water of Kapil Vyapi Kund helps in curing leprosy, and a dip in the Mrikand Muni Kund grants the boon of wisdom. The other important ghats are Gau Ghat and the Warah Ghat. The Warah Ghat is considered very sacred as Lord Vishnu is believed to have appeared here in the form of a boar. It is believed that a woman taking a dip in the lake absolves herself as well as her husband of all sins. It is said that for a complete cleansing of the soul, a pilgrim should spend at least three twilights here, after having bathed at the three ghats. Bathing on the last day (Kartika Poornima, full moon night) is considered most auspicious and is said to confer special blessings on the devotees. Thousands of sadhus throng the sands of Pushkar on this occasion. Besides being an integral part of the fair, they also add to the aura and ambience of Pushkar. Dressed in saffron clothes and garlands of flowers, the ash-smeared sadhus are held in great respect by pilgrims. The devotees offer food, sweets, clothes and rupees to the sadhus and seek their blessings. This ritual is a part of ancient religious practices. The most visited temple at Pushkar is the Shri Brahma Temple, built in the 14th century. It stands on a high plinth with marble steps leading up to it. A beautifully carved silver turtle sits on the floor facing the sanctum sanctorum or garbha griha. The marble floor around the silver turtle is embedded with hundreds of silver coins with donors’ names engraved on them. Similar coins are also inset in the walls of the temple. Peacocks adorn the temple walls, as they are believed to be the vehicle of Goddess Saraswathi, the Goddess of Wisdom and consort of Brahma. A small image of the milkmaid Gayathri flanks the Chaumurthi, the four-faced image of Lord Brahma. The sanctuary has silver doors inside a carved marble gateway. Steps in a corner lead to a small cave dedicated to Lord Shiva. Raja Man Singh I of Amer built a royal guest house, namely Man Mahal – the largest one in Pushkar in the east of the sacred Sarovar Lake in Pushkar. It affords a clear view of the banks and temples located around the lake. It has now been converted into a hotel. Another interesting temple is the Rangji Temple or Vaikunthnathji Temple (dedicated to Lord Vishnu), built in 1823 by Seth Puranmal Geniriwal of Hyderabad. This temple is unique due to the confluence of South Indian (Dravid), Rajput and Mughal styles of architecture. It is very conspicuous because of its south Indian 14 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

style of architecture. It has a high rising gopuram, typical of southern India. The Warah Temple houses an image of Lord Vishnu in the incarnation of a wild boar. This ancient temple is believed to have been built by the Chauhan King Anaji (1123-1150 AD) and renovated by Gokul Chand Parikh, a Scindia Minister, in 1806 AD. The Savithri’s Temple, dedicated to Lord Brahma’s first wife, is located on the hill behind the Brahma temple, and one has to climb a long series of

steps to reach this shrine. The trek takes an hour. It commands a panoramic view of the lake and picturesque village surroundings. The pilgrims take time to visit as many temples as possible, one after another. As the sun sinks and the evening turns mellow, the ringing of bells and the soft sounds of hymns and prayers in the temples fill the air. Later in the night, romance touches Pushkar on the full moon night. Thousands of tiny leaf boats – each carrying flowers and an oil lamp –

How to reach are set afloat on the Pushkar Lake. A thousand stars flicker and twinkle together in the divine lake, which is illuminated in magical hues of golden yellow, orange and red! The closing ceremony is held on the last day and prizes are distributed to the winners. And a day after the full moon night, the caravan of camels, pilgrims, traders and sadhus bids goodbye to Pushkar, only to return the next year.

- Md. Masarrath Ali Khan

By Air : The nearest airport from Pushkar is Jaipur, 138 km from Pushkar. By Rail : Ajmer, situated at a distance of 11 km from Pushkar, is the nearest railway station. Ajmer is well connected to Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Ahmedabad, Udaipur, Abu Road and Jodhpur by regular trains. Pink City Express and Shatabdi Express connect Ajmer to Delhi and Jaipur. By Road : Ajmer (11 km from Pushkar) serves as an ideal base for visiting Pushkar. Accommodation (with phone numbers in brackets): RTDC Hotel Sarovar (2772040) • Peacock Holiday Resort (2772093, 27772414, 2777516) • Hotel Pushkar Palace - A Heritage Hotel (2772001, 2772401/3) • Jagat Singh Palace (2772953, 2772954) • Pushkar Resort (2772017). Dharamshalas and inns are also available. India Immemorial • November 2009 • 15

Cover Story

Quick Facts Pushkar’s STD Code

: 014581

Pushkar’s Pin Code

: 305 022 (Rajasthan State)

Best time to visit

: October to March, preferably during the Pushkar ka mela.

For more information, contact : Rajasthan Tourism, Government of Rajasthan, Govt. Hostel Campus, Paryatan Bhawan, M.I.Road, Jaipur – 302001 (Rajasthan) Tel: 0141-5110598; EPABX: 0141-5110595/5110596; Fax: 0141-2361648 or log on to http://www.rajasthantourism.gov.in/Attractions/Fairs-Festivals/Fairs-FestivalsCalendar2006-2016.aspx

16 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

Important Information In Pushkar, tourists are expected to respect the local culture and privacy of people. Photography is prohibited at Pushkar ghats during bathing. Tourists would do well to dress modestly and in a dignified manner, and avoid sleeveless shirts and shorts, more so, when they are at temples, ghats or their precincts. It is good to remove the shoes before approaching the ghats. Pointing the soles of feet at a person, shrine, sculpture or a deity is also considered disgraceful in India and should be avoided. Smoking, non-vegetarian food and alcohol are also prohibited in Pushkar.

Tourist camps during Pushkar Fair Accommodation is provided in special makeshift tents in a tourist village which is arranged in easily identifiable blocks of tents, each named after the famous dances of Rajasthan. There is also a provision of huts with attached western style toilets and running water. Only vegetarian food is allowed here and alcohol is totally prohibited (Contact Pushkar tourist village, Mela Grounds: Tel: 2772075) Travel Agents Rajasthan Unlimited Forts & Palaces Tours Ltd. S-1, Prabhakar Apartment, Scheme No. 8, Near Gandhi Path, Vaishali Nagar, Jaipur - 302 021 Rajasthan, INDIA Telephone: 0091-141-2354508, 2351117 Fax: 0091-141-2356959 Mobile: 0091-98290-65283 (Mr. Bahadur Singh Rajawat) E-mail: info@rajasthanunlimited.com Pushkar Address: Forts & Palaces Tours Ltd. Pushkar Palace Road, Near Naya Rang Ji Ka Mandir Pushkar (Post) – Pin Code: 305 022, Rajasthan, India (Besides domestic tourists, Forts and Palace Tours Ltd offers excellent services for German tourists as well) Travel India: Contact Tel: +91-9911545429; +91-9891308722 E-mail: info@tourismtravelindia.com, travelhelpindia@yahoo.co.in Websites: www.rajasthantourism-india.com, www.tourismtravelindia.com For more details. log on to http://www.rajasthantourism-india.com/ rajasthan_pushkarfair.html Mr. Rajendra Singh C-162, Bharat Marg, Hanuman Nagar, Vaishali, Jaipur - 302021. Rajasthan (INDIA). Contact No.: 0091 93511 54969 For details, log on to www.rajuindia.com, www.incrediblerealindia.com

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 17

Discovering India

The mystique of

Udaipur

HRH GROUP OF HOTELS, UDAIPUR, View of Palace Complex from Pi 18 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

t was raining heavily outside and I was getting only a hazy view of the mist-coated mountains from the wet green glass panes of my bus. The meandering drive along the Aravallis with a deep gorge on one side was a thrilling experience. The huge trees flanking the road, drenched in rain, presented a beautiful spectacle. Udaipur was casting a magic spell on me! Udaipur is one of the most romantic tourist destinations situated around the shimmering clear blue water lakes. Legend says that one day in 1559, Maharana Udai Singh II was hunting in a hilly region southwest of his capital Chittorgarh, in the wilds of the southern Aravallis. He found a rabbit and killed it with an arrow near the Pichola Talao (now the Pichola Lake). Then he saw a Hindu sage meditating on a hill near the lake. He approached the sage and had his darshan. The saint advised him to build a city at the same spot. The Maharana obliged the saint and laid the foundation of the city here. While his family stayed in Moti Mahal on the hill, he built a more spacious City Palace in 1570. The town that grew around these structures was named Udaipur after the name of its founder Udai Singh.

Photos by author

Sitting pretty on its historical past, Udaipur is known as one of the most romantic cities in Rajasthan. Also known as the city of lakes, this romantic city with its marble palaces, beautifully laid out gardens and lakes seems almost like a mirage in the desert.

India Immemorial â&#x20AC;˘ November 2009 â&#x20AC;˘ 19

Discovering India

Darbar Hall, HRH Group of Hotels, Udaipur

Foreign tourists at Sahelion Ki Bari The rulers of Udaipur were fiercely independent and took immense pride in not succumbing to invasions from any powerful neighbours. They would gladly sacrifice their lives for the sake of their country. Thus this ex-capital of Mewar kingdom always had a glorious history of bravery, chivalry and patriotism. Also known as the ‘Heaven of Rajasthan’, ‘Cool Oasis in the dry heart of Rajasthan’, ‘Venice of the East’, ‘City of Lakes’, and ‘City of Sunrise’, Udaipur is still the home of Mewar’s Royal Family, and headquarters of the family’s prestigious HRH Group of Heritage Hotels. It was still cloudy when I set off to explore the city at around 10 a.m. The first place on my itinerary was Pratap Smarak atop the Moti Magri Hill. Our vehicle traversed through the winding path caressed on one side by the cobalt blue waters of Fateh Sagar Lake. A large bronze statue of Maharana Pratap riding on Chetak, his favourite horse, is erected atop the hill. Maharana Pratap, who had come here with his grandson and family, observed that the long range of hills around, provided the best natural defence, and it was here that he conceived the plans of founding Udaipur. While descending the hill, I stopped at the statue of Bhama Shah at the ‘Hall of Heroes’ (Veer Bhavan). The hall’s upper floor has many huge paintings depicting the events of Mewar history. A huge exhibit encased in glass, showing the battlefield of Haldighati is preserved in the underground hall. 20 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

Walking along the extensive lawns, the groves of trees, and the profusion of flowers in the serene and peaceful Sahelion Ki Bari (Garden of Maids), I felt completely in harmony with nature. The ornamental garden is so called because the princess and royal ladies used to come here for a leisurely walk. It was built by Maharana Sangram Singh II in the mid-18th century for 48 young ladies in waiting sent to the royal home, as a part of dowry. The garden’s manicured lawns display a marvelous range of Bougainvillea. Its main fountain has a white marble pavilion in the centre of the pond. A small stone bird tops a black marble chhatri (kiosk) at each corner of the central water pool. The folk performance of Rajasthan came alive at Bharatiya Lok Kala Mandal, a treasure house of Mewar’s arts and crafts. I enjoyed watching a lively puppet show in which the heroine dances in presence of a king and queen, and a thorn gets stuck in her foot… and the story goes on…… Padma Shri Shri Devi Lal Samar established the Mandal in 1952. This cultural organisation has a group of traditional folk dancers, musicians and Tera Thali Players, always at the disposal of the museum to give a live performance. The museum has different sections dedicated to Rajasthani folk theatre (Turra Kalangi, Ram Leela, Bhavai, Gouri, Raas Leela), cultural wood crafts (Hindola, Vevan, Mor Chopdas, Toran, Khandas, Isar, Gangore, Manak, Thambh, Bajot & masks), mehendi designs (Sanjhi, etc.,), floral designs (Satiya, Pagalya, Rath, Pushkar ki Pedi, Aath Pankhudi, Sheetla Mata) and tribal marriage paintings, dolls and crafts among others. Passing through the crowded vibrant alleys of Udaipur bazaars, abuzz with activity, I reached Bagore ki Haveli on the banks of Lake Pichola at 5 p.m. Many local people were taking a bath on the Gangaur Ghat. Children enjoyed swimming in the lake’s shallow waters. Many foreign tourists enjoying a boat ride waved hands at the children and they responded in admiration. I sat on the steps of

Dharohar dance programme at Bagore Ki Haveli the ghat, soaking my feet and splashing cool water on my face, for a long time. Maharana Shakti Singh of Bagore built a three-arched gate on the Gangaur Ghat in 1878. Attached to it, the erstwhile Bagore ki Haveli now houses the West Zone Cultural Centre (WZCC). Amarchand Badwa, the exprime minister of Mewar State, built the haveli during the reign of Mewar rulers. Whenever the kings of Mewar were left without children, the future kings were adopted from the Bagore Thikana on different occasions, from 18281884. The haveli was the property of Mewar State till 1947. After independence, the

Government of Rajasthan used it for housing servants. It was handed over to the West Zone Cultural Centre in 1986. The entire structure was in ruins, which was carefully restored to its pristine glory by heritage experts. The haveli has 138 rooms, balconies, courtyards, terraces and many corridors. I enjoyed wandering in the Kuan Chowk, Neem Chowk, Kamal Chowk (Lotus Court), and Tulsi Chowk. The Baithak, Snanagaar (bathroom), Shringar Kaksh, Manoranjan Kaksh, Majisa-ka-kamra, Gangaur Kaksh, Sangeet Kaksh, Rasoda (kitchen) and Kanch Mahal have interesting exhibits. The glass and mirror inlay work in the haveli is preserved in its original form. Two peacocks made with small pieces of coloured glasses are unique reflection of the finest craftsmanship of Mewar. The aim of the Centre is to network and disseminate cultural activities in rural India and to provide facilities for the development of performing arts, visual arts, and traditional folk and tribal art forms.

Bharat Lok Kala Mandal India Immemorial • November 2009 • 21

Evening at Lake Pichola

As evening fell, I was seated in a hall rubbing shoulders with scores of foreign tourists who were eagerly waiting with their handy-cams for Dharohar, the cultural show of song, dance and entertainment. Two singers dressed in blue Rajasthani costumes took a seat in an alcove inside the hall and sang a welcome song ‘Padharo Maro Desh…’ Then a lady representative of WZCC introduced the artists to the audience. The Rajasthani artists, attired in their ceremonial dress, presented a dramatic song and dance show, which included both solo and group performances. One lady artiste balanced many pots on her head and presented a lovely dance. Later she danced on broken pieces of glass which drew a huge round of applause from the audience. Another attraction was a puppet show in which the doll cuts her head, picks it up in its own hands and dances around, performing many humorous tricks. Many foreign tourists made a war of words in praise of Indian performing arts. Set in a royal heritage building in the backdrop of Lake Pichola, ‘Dharohar’ was a perfect entertainment show to end a lively evening. The best was yet to come! * * * * * At the break of dawn, the luxuriant green panorama of Gulab Bagh (Sajjan Bagh) revealed itself shyly, enveloped in the early morning mist. A whiff of breeze, impregnated with sweet refreshing aroma of rose flowers, lifted my spirits. This garden of roses was laid out by Maharana Sajjan Singh in 1881. It has wide and spacious lawns flanked by a long stretch of trees on both sides. Innumerable 22 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

varieties of roses and other flowers bloom in it. Maharana Fateh Singh (1884-1930) constructed the Victoria Hall here, which was officially opened (1890) by the Viceroy, Lord Lansdowne. Now it houses the district library (Rajakeeya Saraswathi Bhavan) and a reading room, with abundant research material and ancient handwritten manuscripts for scholars, historians, and writers. There is also a small zoo which has a panther, a tiger, a hyena, a crocodile, grey leg geese, beheaded geese, pigeons, grey ducks, and spot bills, peacocks and pelicans. A toy train took me through all the attractions. Many women were singing bhajans and divine songs inside the Jagadish Temple and many sadhus were sitting on the steps. I saw an unending stream of visitors here. This IndoAryan temple, dedicated to Vishnu, was built by Maharana Jagat Singh in 1651 and is said to have taken 25 years for completion! Its 25 feet high platform - flanked by stone elephants - is approached by a flight of steps. It has a pillared porch (mandap) and a sanctum (garbhagriha), which is crowned by a flat ribbed disc (amalakar) and a finial (kalasa). The platform has some intricate carvings. A shrine in front of the temple has a brass image of Garuda, the mythological bird. I set aside a complete half day for exploring the pride of the city, namely the City Palace Complex. A rich repository of Mewar art, heritage and culture and a great architectural composition of high merit, the magnificent edifice is a miracle of rare devices and a conglomeration of interconnected art galleries, overlapping pavilions, open terraces, balconies,

luxury rooms, hanging gardens, and halls of paintings – all of which are so harmoniously blended that it becomes a profusion hard to describe! The various chapters of Mewar history began to unfold before my eyes as I roamed inside the different chambers of the Palace (see separate box item on Udaipur City Palace). As evening fell and the sun dusted the palaces with gold, I took a boat ride across Lake Pichola. The vast serene expanse of azure blue waters provided a cool retreat to the eyes. We had a passing view of the Lake Palace (Jag Niwas) shining brilliantly. Gleaming white marble, exquisite architecture, gorgeous interiors, lily and lotus pools, trellised alcoves, fountains and sprawling courtyard, all combine to make it the best luxury palace in the whole country. It is named after Maharaja Jagat Singh II who built it in 1754. Its walls are frescoed with water colours and are decorated with finemirrored mosaic. Some scenes of the James bond film Octopussy and the old Hindi movie Mera Saaya were filmed here. Our boat stopped at Jag Mandir, an island palace in Pichola made of finest yellow sandstone inlaid with marble. Maharana Karan Singh had started its construction in 1615 AD but it was Maharana Jagat Singh I who completed it. A row of huge stone elephants guards the palace. An intricately carved chhatri made of gray-blue stone adds an elegant charm to the whole scheme. The island palace is full of trees, flowers, gardens and impressive courtyards. Jag Mandir holds a significant place in the

Discovering India history of Mewar. From 17th century onwards, it came to symbolise the Suryavanshi ideals of helping a person in distress. When Prince Khurram rebelled against his father and sought shelter with the rulers of Mewar in 1623-24, the then Maharana lodged Khurram in this island palace. Khurram is said to have conceived the design of Taj Mahal, in its miniature form, during his calm and peaceful stay here. In 1627, Jehangir died and Prince Khurram succeeded him as Emperor Shah Jahan. On his departure, the Mughal emperor and the Maharana exchanged turbans as a token of bonding and friendship. During the Great Mutiny of 1857, many European women and children took shelter in this palace. The setting sun painted the sky with yellow and orange streaks; I retraced my steps and reached the palace complex to witness the Light and Sound Show namely Legacy of Honour. A ghostly silence reigned supreme here. I was seated in the Manak Chowk under the dark sky twinkling with stars. Pigeons fluttered around, from one gallery to another in the palace quite unmindful of its glorious history. The show began at 7 pm and what a wonderful show it was! It unfolded a saga of 1500 years of Mewar - from ancient times of Bappa Rawal to modern times – in mere 57 minutes. Different portions of the palace are illuminated in lights of different colours accompanied by a synchronising commentary in Hindi. The script of the Legacy of Honour has been penned down by Princess Devki Singh of Kapurthala and it was inaugurated on 23rd January 2005 by the former Governor of

Puppet Show at Bharat Lok Kala Mandal

Arunachal Pradesh and Manipur, Arvind Dave. The audio quality of the programme is superb. The sounds of tinkling bells, the shrieks of women, the cries of soldiers in the battlefield, all were so carefully crafted into the show that I felt as if I was witnessing all those momentous events in my mind’s eye. The show drew a huge round of appreciation from the audience, and even before I left, the entire palace was lit up in bright golden light, with a sweet Rajasthani musical tune playing in the background! Watching the edifice shimmering in golden hue was a once in a lifetime experience that made me feel proud to

be an Indian. I stood before the palace, taking one long and deep look, as if to chisel its image in my heart! I left Udaipur that night, vowing to return soon. Deep in my mind, the images of local people befriending and helping me continued to haunt me. I have visited many places and penned stories about them. But Udaipur is one destination whose mystique, magic, aura and ambience have always defied exposition and therein lays its true charm, beauty and enchantment.

- Md. Masarrath Ali Khan

Camel in the backdrop of Jag Mandir

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 23

Heritage Redefined

Udaipur City Palace

Blast from the

Photos by author

Royal Past

24 â&#x20AC;˘ November 2009 â&#x20AC;˘ India Immemorial

Heritage Redefined The City Palace in Udaipur, overlooking Lake Pichola, is the pride of the place. Built over a period of 300 years, this palace is a harmonious blend of architectural marvels of various rulers.

he City Palace is the pride of Udaipur city. Towering on a hill alongside Lake Pichola, it is a huge imposing structure of granite and marble, with a windowless base, ornate turrets and canopies. Maharana Udai Singh began its construction in 1559 AD. Different rulers constructed different portions of it over a period of 300 years! But all these additions were so carefully planned, integrated and harmoniously blended with the original one that the palace as a whole looks uniform in design. The late Maharana Bhagawat Singh opened the main palace as a public museum in 1969.

One enters into the palace proper through the Ganesh Deodhi which leads to chambers namely Pratap Kaksh, Haldighati Kaksh and Rana Pratap Kaksh. A flame has been burning for centuries at the Nau Chauki Dhuni Mata Shrine, in gratitude to the wise old sage who suggested this spot for the new capital. The principal deities of Mewar are kept here in niches. Thence one moves into the Chandra Mahal or Lakhu Gokhda. When Maharana Udai Singh’ son Karan Singh was born, the queen distributed contents of a stone basin, full with 1,00,000 silver coins at Chandra Mahal. Further inside, one finds a hanging lush green garden Prasanna Amar Vilas Palace (Badi Mahal) at a height of 90 feet from the ground level, built on the ground upon a high rock formation, between 1699 and 1711, during the reign of Maharana Amar Singh II. A marble courtyard runs around the garden with a square central pool and fluted columns reminiscent of the Mughal’s architecture. The garden, full of flowering shrubs, trees, ponds, fountains and arched pavilions, provides a quiet shaded spot to relax during the tour of the Palace.

The tragic memories of the young beautiful princess still haunt the Krishna Vilas. Krishna Kumari (Meera Bai’s sister) was mistakenly spoken for, to two rival Rajput states of Jodhpur and Jaipur. A war was likely to take place between the two states. The death of the princess was the only way to avert the war. So she drank poison at the behest of her father and died here. The Krishna Vilas Palace is dedicated to her and it contains a series of beautiful miniature paintings depicting the royal procession and festivals. These paintings are ranked amongst the finest in Rajasthani School. The Badi Chitrashala built by Sangram Singh II (1710-1734) is full of florid paintings, with a strong influence of Mughal style. The Chini Chitrashala built in 1717, during the reign of Maharana Sangram Singh II, has exquisite Chinese porcelain and glass ornamentation and is well-known for its brilliant blue mosaics. The depictions of biblical scenes are quite marvelous. The Moti Mahal, a later addition to the sprawling City place Complex, is embellished not with pearls but with thousands of tiny mirrors, creating a magical interplay of reflections.

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 25

Inside City Palace, Jaipur

building that was built in European design. Its drawing rooms, looking glasses, sideboards and billiard-rooms, all mark a brilliant departure from the traditional Rajput architecture. It was used as the royal residence till Maharana Fateh Singh built a new palace, Shiv Niwas, and shifted his residence there. Later, Maharana Bhagwat Singh again converted Shambhu Niwas into the royal residence and after his death in 1984, his son Maharana Shri Arvind Singh continues to live here. City Palace interior

Stories of Radha and Krishna are painted on the walls of the Bhim Vilas. The glass mosaic gallery with its superb stained glasses and portraits afford a panoramic view of the city below. A huge ornamental Sun is preserved in the Surya Chaupar. This was the Balcony of the Sun where the Maharanas presented themselves to the people in times of trouble to restore their confidence. The most amazing and beautiful chamber is the Mor Chowk built in the 17th century by Maharana Karan Singh II, as a new durbar (reception area). It has finely crafted peacocks in bright mosaic relief, made of 5,000 pieces of Belgium glass and miniature mirrors. Maharana Sajjan Singh (1874-1884) placed these peacocks here in the 19th century. Dancing in different postures, these ornamental 26 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

birds represent the three seasons of the year summer, winter and monsoon. To the south of the City Palace is the Zanana Mahal or the Palace of Queens of Mewar built by Maharana Karan Singh II. Its original name was Rawala and it was opened to the public in October 1974. The Queen’s Apartments are ornamented with murals, inlaid glass and panels depicting scenes from the life of Lord Krishna as well as pictorial stories of Hindu and Rajasthani origin. The remaining portion of the Palace, up against the lake shore, has been converted into two Heritage Luxury Hotels known as Shiv Niwas and Fateh Prakash Palace which are a part of the famous HRH Group of Hotels. The Shambhu Niwas Palace was the first

Maharana Fateh Singh built the Fateh Prakash Palace and Lord Minto laid the foundation of its Durbar Hall (Minto Hall) on 3rd November 1909. Many old paintings, weapons and grand portraits of former Maharanas of Mewar adorn the walls of this palace. A crystal gallery is housed in the Fateh Prakash Palace. Inspired by the showroom of Birmingham based company F&C Osler in Calcutta, Maharana Sajjan Singh ordered the staggering collection of crystal in 1877 from London; but he died before the arrival of the shipment. So much of the crystal collection remained packed in cases. It was only in 1994 that it was opened for public display. The crystal gallery has an astounding collection of lamps, washing bowls, perfume bottles, vases, and paper-weights, writing instruments, crockery, fountains, furniture, silver beds, chairs and many important antiques.

- Md. Masarrath Ali Khan

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Famed for its Buddha Stupa and the temple of Amareshwara, Amaravati in Andhra Pradesh has come to stay as a place of cultural confluence of the apparently diverse and contradictory religions of our country through many centuries.

AMARAVATI

A CULTURAL CONFLUENCE 28 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

Art & Culture

The various sculptures on display at the Archaeological Museum at Amaravati.

maravati is about 35 km from Guntur Railway Station on the right bank of River Krishna in Andhra Pradesh. It is also approachable from Vijayawada (about 40 km) by city bus or steamer across River Krishna. It has been famous for its Buddha Stupa and the temple of Lord Amareshwara (Shiva) from time immemorial. Amaravati also had a flourishing vidyapeetha where students from China, Japan, Thailand, Ceylon and Tibet came to study. Dharanikota is the village adjacent to Amaravati. Both together form the township. They were once a part of the ancient city of Sri Dhanya-Kataka, the fortified capital of Satavahana kings.

Historical background Amaravati was once a `mega’ city with a circumference of 16 km, as reported by Huen Tsang, the Chinese pilgrim. He had visited the place in 7th century AD. The Mahasanghikas (also known as Chaityakas) got separated from the orthodox Theravadins and settled in this region of Andhra Pradesh. Later, they composed the Mahayana School of Buddhism. Their temple of worship was the stupa in Amaravati.

Origin and Development Originally, a small chaitya (stupa) was built by Emperor Ashoka during the 3rd and 4th centuries. But gradually, over a period of time, it underwent a lot of expansion. In the 1st and 2nd century AD, the Satavahana kings ruled South India. Though they were followers of Hinduism,

their queens followed Buddhism. During that period, the chaitya developed into a Mahachaitya of much wider dimension with many alterations and additions. Many pilgrims used to visit the Maha-chaitya from distant lands. The Maha-chaitya was 54 m in diameter, 30 m in height and surrounded by a 13 ft high railing containing many bas-relief sculptures in limestone. Along with its subsidiary votive stupas, it acquired a large area. It had three main parts: a cylindrical base, hemi-spherical dome and the surrounding circular. It was very similar to the Buddha Stupa of Sanchi near Bhopal. The core of the Maha-chaitya was brick and earth encased by marble slabs with sculptures in low relief. The base had projections in four cardinal directions and on each of these projections was erected five ayaka pillars - representing the five episodes of Buddha’s life. The railing had four gateways with columns having lion capitals. The railing and the casing slabs were added in 150 AD, when Nagarjuna (a Buddhist monk and teacher) resided there. This was the third phase of the elaborate development and sculptural exuberance. The vast monumental glory continued unabated in the 4th and 5th phases of development from 3rd to 6th century AD and from 7th to 12th century AD respectively. The Maha-chaitya survived well and was worshipped right up to 1182 AD. Even in 1344 AD it was regarded to be divine; as learnt from Sri Lankan inscriptions that Sthavara Dharmakirti had visited and donated for the

repair of the Maha-chaitya. Thereafter, for a long period, it remained secluded and became victim of human vandalism, theft as well as the ravages of time and nature. By 18th century AD, the Maha-chaitya was badly mutilated and converted into mounds of lumps.

Discovery and excavations Thanks to the efforts of Colonel Colin Mackenzie, a military surveyor who first discovered this site in 1797 AD. Later, during his second visit in 1816 AD, he salvaged the best available sculptures from the site. After Mackenzie, other scholars and archaeologists had also carried out excavation work at this site. Ultimately, the excavation branch of the Archaeological Survey of India deputed many officers to carry out extensive and systematic excavation of this important Buddhist site. These excavations have yielded many inscribed fragments and architectural pieces which have found shelter in museums. At present, the site consists of a drum-like brick base of the stupa, paved `Parekrama patha’, and the circular alignment of the great railing. Some excavated sculptures are also arranged around this site.

Sculptures & inscriptions The limestone sculptures and inscriptions of Amaravati’s Maha-chaitya got distributed over several museums in India and abroad. Most of the best pieces are displayed in the British Museum, London, and the Government Museum India Immemorial • November 2009 • 29

Art & Culture Chalukya Bhima, 1,100 years ago. Additions and alterations have been made by subsequent kings of the region. One unique feature of this temple complex is the installation of Sri Venugopalaswamy idol as kshetrapalaka for both Shiva and Keshava (Vishnu). In this way, any difference between the two is denied. The Amareshwara Temple has many inscriptions on walls belonging to different historical periods. These are mostly in old Telugu with explanations in Sanskrit. These can be seen in the prakaras of the complex.

in Egmore, Chennai. Some were carried to the museums and art galleries in Paris, New York, Boston, Kansas city and Germany. The National Museum, Delhi, and the Indian Museum, Kolkata, also possess Amaravati carvings and inscribed slabs. Initially, the Archaeological Museum at Amaravati contained only those pieces which were left by archaeologists Burgess and Rea in the sculpture shed at the excavated site. But, later on, the collection of this site museum was augmented. Cement replicas of some original sculptures of Madras museum are also displayed here. In the open courtyard of this museum, by seeing the partly reconstructed railing in its original size, a visitor can easily imagine the imposing dimension of the Maha-chaitya. In the site museum, one can see the ancient glory and perennial grandeur of artistic aptitude of the Telugus, as well as the socio-economic condition of contemporary society impressively carved in limestone. In the courtyard of this museum, a model of the reconstructed Mahachaitya in its most evolved stage and a part of the railing (restored) with panels of sculptures are worth seeing.

Art of Amaravati During the second and third phases of development of Amaravati Maha-chaitya, traditional art forms of religious symbols and graphic art got modified into landscapes and animal motifs. Under the influence of the many Buddhist centres of North India and the Greek sculptures, for the first time, scenes from the life cycles of Lord Buddha (from his birthplace Lumbini in Nepal and stay at Vaishali to the place of his parinirvana in Kushinagar, Uttar Pradesh) were carved in stone during the Satavahana period. There is meticulous blending of outside influence with local sculptors’ creativity. The rhythm, line, curves and contours in rock carving vibrate with sensuous reality; while, at the same time, they look sober. Though the themes are Buddha’s life and previous births, 30 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

these scenes appear to be of a society rich in life and vitality. The narrated details in stone are “vivid, effective and instinctively appealing”. According to many art scholars, ``The ivorylike delicacy and precision of carving make these reliefs the most voluptuous and delicate flowers of Indian sculptures. The slim, lively and graceful figures are represented in all sorts of difficult poses and curves.” In fact, the reliefs are charmingly natural and full of feminine grace. The sculptural depiction of flowers, particularly lotuses and Swastika mark are considered to be of delicate workmanship in the Mahayana School of Architecture. Vincent Smith has rightly stated, ``Amaravati marbles must have formed, when perfect, one of the most splendid exhibitions of artistic skill in the history of the world’’. Amaravati, in the past, served as a wholly indigenous national art centre.

Sri Amareshwara Temple Complex Apart from the splendid stupa, Amaravati is also significant as the seat of an ancient temple of Lord Shiva. The presiding deity of this temple is called Sri Amareshwara. The marble Sri Amareshwara lingam is 15 ft tall and 3 ft in circumference. The temple of his consort named Bala Chamundeswari is situated on the left of the sanctum sanctorum (garbagriha). Jagadguru Adishankaracharya had installed this Devi idol. There are three prakaras (compounds) in this complex, wherein shrines of other Hindu gods and goddesses have been constructed in the due course of time, in accordance with the Agama shastras. In Skanda Purana, it is mentioned that Devendra had installed the Shivalinga for humans, devangas, yakshas and kinnaras to worship. History says that kings and people of various dynasties dating back from 200 BC have worshipped the deity here. The present structure of the Amareshwara Temple was constructed by a Vengi ruler,

In the year 1980, while undertaking some renovation work, a long trench was cut in the temple premises for the construction of the eastern gopuram. During excavation, a broken Gandharv-Mithuna figure, a bull and an ornamental pillar’s capital – all carved in limestone - were found. These were mended and properly displayed in the archaeological museum. The figure of Mithuna couple is a masterpiece of Amaravati art.

Popularity of Jainism Like Brahmanism and Buddhism, the beginning of Jainism in Andhra can also be ascribed to the pre-Mauryan period (4th century AD), if not earlier. Probably, due to austerity and nudity, it had an obscure existence for a long period. However, later on, during the first century AD, it split into two - the Digambaras and Shwetambaras; the Jain acharyas relaxed the rigid rules and began to tolerate local practices. Jainism gained popularity among people and enjoyed liberal royal patronage. It continued to prosper till 13th century AD. The archaeological excavations at Vaddaman in Guntur district have yielded the remains of a Jain stupa, Samprati Vihara, named after the grandson of Ashoka, and a number of label inscriptions in early Brahmi characters (from 200 BC to 200 AD). A comprehensive study of inscriptions and sculptures has revealed that Amaravati has come to stay as a place of cultural confluence of the apparently diverse and contradictory religions of our country through many centuries. It has very well sustained continuously as a place of worship and adoration. This is mainly due to mutual tolerance, understanding and compatibility among the people living in this locality for many years now. It is a grand example of peaceful coexistence and communal harmony. In view of the above details, a visit to Amaravati is a must for anyone who respects India’s art, culture, history and religion. In addition to a traveller’s bungalow and a PWD Rest House, there are many dharmashalas and private lodges for stay in Amaravati. Local guides are also available for the convenience of visitors. -AK

Bahadur

The author is a former senior official of Archeological Survey of India.

Artefacts

Facelift for the

First Rajkumari The century-old Jayalakshmi Vilas Mansion is one of the five royal mansions built by Maharaja Chamaraja Wodeyar for his eldest daughter, Princess Jayalakshmi Ammanni. The palace houses a unique museum that boasts of a remarkable collection of folk culture.

32 â&#x20AC;˘ November 2009 â&#x20AC;˘ India Immemorial

series of twin corinthian and ionic columns, regal pediments on the first floor, plastered window sets in variegated ensembles of flat arches, pediments and oval ventilators, extensively decorated interiors, a small overbridge connecting the north and south portions of the three-wing structure, a dancing hall, kalyana mantap, richly decorated residential rooms, more then 6,500 folk art and folklore articles on display. Ethnographic collections of South Indian toys, puppets and household objects, wooden chariots... All these take you back to the ancestral age. An interesting and unique museum that adds to the character of Mysore is the Folk Arts Museum. This museum has a remarkable collection of folk culture and is celebrated as one of the largest of its kind in Asia.

The exhibits include an excellent collection of carved wooden figures from various villages of Karnataka, rural costumes, utensils, ornaments, metal artefacts, and implements and tools used in different rural professions. The museum also houses models of temples, houses, decorative masks, ceremonial headgear and has a section that displays leather shadow puppets too. The museum is famous for the two wooden chariots that are a part of its collection. The Jayalakshmi Vilas Mansion is about a century old and is one of the five royal mansions built by Maharaja Chamaraja Wodeyar. It was built for his eldest daughter Princess Jayalakshmi Ammanni 1905 at a cost of Rs 7 lakh. The location was intentionally chosen to be on top of a small hillock above Kukkarahalli Lake.

The museum has a spectacular collection of over 6,500 unique folklore exhibits. The exhibits have been organised in a systematic order, according to the folk art forms.

India Immemorial â&#x20AC;˘ November 2009 â&#x20AC;˘ 33

Artefacts

Wooden chariot

Carvings on the wodden pillar

Balcony of the palace

The mansion was acquired by the University of Mysore to establish a postgraduate centre in its Manasagangotri campus. The building was in a state of neglect for a very long time. The building was restored at a cost of Rs 1.17 crore from funds donated by the Infosys Foundation. This mansion today houses the Folklore Museum and is also a research centre of the Mysore University. The museum houses a rare collection of artefacts related to folklore, archaeology and geology, collected from different parts of India.

The prominent features of this magnificent three-wing building include a series of twin corinthian and ionic columns, regal pediments on the first floor on top of the north and east porches, plastered window sets in variegated ensembles of flat arches, and pediments and oval ventilators, all richly moulded. The interior of the mansion is extensively decorated in Indian style. A small over-bridge connects the north and south portions of the three-wing structure. The other important portions of this mansion are the dancing hall, kalyana mantap and richly decorated residential rooms.

The renovated mansion has 125 rooms, 300 windows, 287 exquisitely carved doors and is spread across six acres. There are entrances on each side, different from each other.

The dancing hall has a wooden floor with a viewers’ gallery and a balcony. The roof at the centre is at a height of 40 feet and is decorated with painted glasses that provide ventilation. The kalyana mantap has a 12-pillar square. The mantap has an eight petal shaped dome with glass windows and on top of it is a gold plated kalasha or tower. In fact, the kalyana mantap is the most beautiful portion of the mansion. The main pediment in the high-bracketed European classical building is invariably embellished with matching motifs of Greeco-Roman design containing motifs from the Indian religious tradition.

The mansion was originally called the First Rajakumari Mansion, Palace of the First Princess Jayalakshmi Devi and the Kebbekatte Bungalow. The mansion is elevated and is opposite the Kukkarahalli Lake. After Princess Jayalakshmi’s marriage to her maternal uncle M Kantharaj Urs in 1897, who later became the Dewan of Mysore, his house was considered inadequate for the two of them. So the new mansion was built after acquiring about 800 acres in the west of Mysore city. It was called the Jayalakshmi Vilas Mansion.

The northside pediment of the mansion has a sculpture of Goddess Lakshmi and the southside has a sculpture of Goddess Bhuvaneswari under a domed canopy. Arched colonnades connect the different wings of the building. The interiors of the mansion have rich carvings and mouldings in masonry and wood and are the best examples of ancient Indian design. The renovated mansion has 125 rooms, 300 windows, 287 exquisitely carved doors and is spread across six acres. There are entrances on each side, different from each other. The entrance on the northern side has an extrusion on the stairs, presumably to be used as the alighting platform. 34 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

Wooden chariot

The front of the quadrangle is carved from above, thus creating an excellent reception hall about 40 feet high and the back portion known as Bhuvaneswari, is elegantly covered by a dome with a gilt finial on top. The Bhuvaneswari has some exquisite carvings. The doors, windows and pillars supporting the dome have beautiful filigree work. The mansion is built of brick, mortar, timber and iron. Stone was not used, as it would lead to delays in construction. The mansion has been provided with a separate drainage for rainwater and used water. The total area of the mansion is 1.20 lakh sq ft. The museum has a spectacular collection of over 6,500 unique folklore exhibits. The exhibits have been organised in a systematic order, according to the folk art forms. The gallery is divided into various wings, with each wing dedicated to a different set of collection like folklore, large dolls, folk life, literature and art. The folklore section has several priceless artefacts. The display on Yakshagana with props and accessories of both Thenka Thittu and Badgu Thittu, the northern and southern forms of Yakshagana, is prominent. The other rare collections in the museum are a valuable Hanuman crown from Kugala Balli village in North Karnataka; costumes of Kathakali from Kerala; costumes of folk dramatists from Andhra Pradesh; masks, puppets, leather dolls, saw dust dolls from various parts of Karnataka (in which regional and historical influences can be perceived); items representing the Soliga community; ink preparation at Dodderi Village of Chitradurga about 200 years ago and the mantapa, an ornamental wooden altar used by Jnanapeeta awardee K V Puttappa (Kuvempu), and the like. Folk musical instruments on display include string, percussion and wind instruments. String

Sculpture of Lion

Sculpture of Kuvempu in the model thotti mane

instruments include kinnari of the jogis, the choudike and tamburi of tatwa pada singers, and the string instrument of the Nilagaras falls. Percussion instruments include birapana dollu, gondaliga’s sambala, halakki gowda’s gummate, chande, dimmi dammadi, the damaruga of goravas, and the nagari. Wind instruments include junjappana gane, a three feet long flute, the kombu, kahale and pungi. There is a collection of figures representing gods, kings, queens, hermits and soldiers. Folk deities, ceremonial headgear, religious objects, village deities like Soma and Bhutha are also on display. The large doll wing has statues and large dolls used in dances including Soma, Talebhutha, Kaibhutha, Maari and Gadi Maari. The folk life wing has instruments used by farmers, blacksmiths, goldsmiths, boatmen, fishermen, potters, cobblers and other artisans. It also includes household items like lamps, weapons, agricultural implements, cooking utensils, measures, churns, weaving implements, pots, beads, baskets, items of folk games and clothing. In the coming days, the mansion will have a new look with added features like training programmes on folk arts, classical arts, wood carving and sculptures for children in order to raise awareness among them in folk arts, says Prof Arvind Malgathi, director of the museum.

Tips for visitors The museum is located in the magnificent Jayalakshmi Vilas Mansion, which is on the Mysore University campus at Manasagangotri. The museum is open between 10 am and 5 pm on all days except Sundays.

Apart from this, a Nagabana will also be constructed inside the museum premises along with Soliga huts to give it a tribal touch. Also planned are fortnightly stage shows on folk arts and performing arts, for which a special stage will be designed in the coming days. Terracotta images are also planned to be placed around the mansion, for which a team of artists from Tamil Nadu are working diligently, said Prof Malgathi.

-Prashant Nanjappa India Immemorial • November 2009 • 35

Looking Back

36 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

Monsoon Magic in M

Mandu Sitting cosily amidst unparalleled scenic beauty, the fort city of Mandu was the coveted possession of emperors and generals. It moved from the hands of the Parmaras, to the Ghauris and the Mughals to finally rest with the Marathas of Dhar.

onsoon brings memories of Mandu - the ancient City of Joy where Mughal emperors, including Akbar, Jahangir and Shah Jahan retreated during the rains to enjoy its scenic beauty. In the words of Emperor Jehangir, ‘I know of no place so pleasant in climate and so pretty in scenery as Mandu during the rains.’ This fort city is touched by the magic and the ruins seem to come alive during the monsoon months. Built at an altitude of 2,079 ft, during the monsoon, Mandu receives heavy rainfall and displays the glory of the long-lost world in a lush green landscape dotted with ruins silhouette against a canopy of floating clouds. The overcast skies; the foliage heavy with raindrops; and the glassy lakes and ponds that reflect the ruins elude an ancient charm difficult to describe in words. Located in the Dhar district in the Malwa region of western Madhya Pradesh, Mandu or Mandavgarh is approximately 100 km from Indore. The city is spread over 75 km and overlooks the plateau of Malwa in the north and the valley of the River Narmada in the south.

Folklore Aa laut ke aaja mere meet, tujhe mere geet bulate hain…this soulful song from the hit Hindi movie of the 1950s, Rani Roopmati, reverberates in the rain-heavy air of Mandu. The ballads sung by the locals glorify the love of the Muslim ruler, Baz Bahadur for his Hindu queen, Roopmati. The story goes thus. Baz Bahadur, the last independent ruler of Mandu, was so besotted by Roopmati, said to be a shepherdess with a mellifluous voice and unmatched beauty that he pleaded her to accompany him to his palace. Since Roopmati was reluctant to move away from her home close to the holy River Narmada, Baz Bahadur had a reservoir built, which is believed to have a water lift at the northern end to supply it with the water from the Narmada. It was called the Rewa (another name for the River Narmada) Kund and still stands. He housed her in what was an army post, now known as the Roopmati Pavilion. Set at a vantage point, the Roopmati Pavilion commands an expansive view of the Narmada valley hundreds of kilometers away. The Narmada can be seen meandering through the plains like a streak of silver. The pavilion also proffers a view of Baz Bahadur’s palace. Like all legendary love stories, this one too ended in tragedy. It is believed that when the account of Roopmati’s beauty reached the Mughal Emperor Akbar, he invaded Mandu. Baz Bahadur fled to Chittorgarh to seek help while Roopmati in true Rajput tradition, poisoned herself to save her honour.

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 37

Looking Back The architecture of Mandu is a fine blend of Hindu and Islamic styles. The ruins offer a peek into the past grandeur of Mandu.

History Situated at such an altitude, with ravines on three sides, Mandu offered impregnable natural defenses besides unparalleled scenic beauty to become a coveted possession of emperors and generals. It moved from the hands of the Parmaras, to the Ghauris and the Mughals to finally rest with the Marathas of Dhar. Archaeological evidence suggests that Mandu was first fortified around the sixth century AD but it was in the 10th century when Raja Bhoj, the most prominent of the Parmaras and the founder of Bhopal, moved his capital

38 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

from Ujjain to Dhar, 35 km from Mandu, that it gained prominence. In 1305, it was conquered by Alauddin Khilji of the Delhi Sultanate who appointed Dilawar Khan Ghauri as the governor to rule Malwa. Dilawar Khan Ghauri declared his independence in 1401. Hoshang Shah, son of Dilawar Khan was the most eminent ruler of Mandu. He ruled Mandu for almost three decades (1405-1435) and built some of the finest monuments that stand today. Mandu remained with the Sultans of Malwa till 1469 who renamed it ‘Shadiabad’ (City of Joy) and

built palaces, mosques, gardens and lakes within its walls. Sultan Mohammed Khalji, who ruled Mandu between 1436 and 1469, is said to have had a harem of 10,000 women who were housed here. After the fall of the Malwa Sultanate, Daulat Khan ruled Mandu as Sultan Baz Bahadur from 1555-1561. In 1962, Mughal emperor Akbar captured Malwa and Mandu became a pleasure resort. When the Marathas assumed power in 1732, they shifted the capital of Malwa back to Dhar. Mandu was abandoned.

admired structures here are the Jahaz Mahal and the Hindola Mahal. The Jahaz Mahal or the ship palace constructed by Ghiyath Shah, is 120 meters long and is built between two artificial lakes. This four-domed structure is the most recognised monument of Mandu. The doublestoreyed palace has open pavilions, balconies and terraces overlooking the lakes. Walking through it, one cannot help being drawn into the dream of the opulent pleasure resort it once was. The Hindola Mahal or the swing palace is called so due to its sloping walls that appear as if swaying in the wind. Dilawar Khan’s Mosque, Taveli Mahal, the tree baolis or step wells – Champa, Ujali, Andheri; are just a few of the hundreds of structures strewn around the city.

Monuments

Cool subterranean rooms and wide arched corridors provided respite from the summer heat. But the most striking art in architecture here are the ingenious bath pools and baolis or step-wells. The bath pools with provision for hot and cold water have painstakingly ornate drains that are truly amazing.

monuments to the south includes the Rewa Kund, a stone-lined reservoir whose waters are said to have curative powers; the Roopmati Pavilion with its magnificent view; and the imposing structure of Baz Bahadur’s Palace. Leaving Mandu is not easy, the dream-like beauty and magnificence tugs the heartstrings with a twinge of loss, and the lines of the same song from Rani Roopmati emerge even more poignant, Ek pal hai milna, ek pal bichadna, duniya hai do din ka mela...

Must-do’s in Mandu A visit to Mandu is most enjoyable during the monsoon months. Ganesh Chaturthi is celebrated here with great fervour and is the biggest local festival. Mandu is about 100 km from Indore which is well connected to the rest of the country by air, rail and road. The Baobab tree or the ‘upside down tree’ originally from Africa is also seen here.

The architecture of Mandu is a fine blend of Hindu and Islamic styles. The ruins offer a peek into the past grandeur of Mandu. Most of the structures that survive today were built between 1401 and 1531. Mosques, madarasas and pleasure-palaces dot the entire city enclosed within the 25-mile wall that encircles it. It has 12 gateways. The Dilli Darwaza, the main entrance to the city, was built by Hoshang Shah. The monuments are grouped into three according to their locations.

The Central Monuments: These are the well-preserved monuments in the centre of the village. The majestic Jami Masjid in pink sandstone is believed to be modeled after the Omayyed Mosque known as the Great Mosque in Damascus. Hoshang Shah’s tomb in white marble with its ornamental facade and fine latticed jharokhas is said to have been studied by Shah Jahan’s architects before the building of the Taj Mahal. The Ashrafi Mahal, or the palace of the gold coins, was a theological college with a marble mausoleum inside.

The culture of Malwa is influenced by Gujarati and Rajasthani culture, because of their geographic proximity. The Maratha rule has also left some Marathi influence. This is evident in the local cuisine. When in Mandu do not miss a taste of the local specialty - baati or bafla – wheat patties cooked over open fire or cooked in boiling water to be dipped in ghee and eaten with dal; imli-ni-kadhi, a sour kadhi made from the fruit of the Baobab tree; and mawa baati, a large, spongy gulab jamoon filled with dry fruit.

The Royal Enclave: Two of the most

The Rewa Kund Complex: This group of

- Shefali Tripathi Mehta India Immemorial • November 2009 • 39

Traditional Musical Instruments

Veena nada – the sound of the Veena, is not only a source of joy but continuous practice and exploration of the instrument can elevate one spiritually.

One of the most refined musical instruments known to mankind is perhaps the Veena, the stringed instrument. This national instrument of our country has fascinated rishis of the yore who have researched on the acoustics of the Veena and have found that the

This ancient instrument has been described in detail in our Vedas and the Puranas and the notes that emanate from the instrument have a rich variety and are very sonorous. The fact that it is held in the hands of Goddess Saraswathi, who is also known as Veena-Pani - the one who holds the Veena - is mentioned in mythology which dates back to several thousands of years speaks in volumes about its antiquity. Lord Shiva is described as Veenadhara to celebrate his proficiency

nly talented people bestowed with a good voice can sing, but the musically inclined can try out their passion for music by mastering the art of playing on a musical instrument of one’s choice. It will be interesting for you to know that India has had the privilege of housing and patronising a greater number of musical instruments than any other part of the world for millenniums.

•

An example of the Veena’s use in modern western popular music is found in the song “Sail Away Ladies,” on the John Fahey album “The Great San Bernardino Birthday Party.” Alan Wilson, better known for his role with Canned Heat, accompanies Fahey’s guitar with a Veena part.

40 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

•

As a state party to UNESCO Convention 2003, India has identified Veena as an element of Intangible Cultural Heritage and proposed its inscription in the Representative list of UNESCO.

in playing the instrument as a connoisseur of music. Narada, the celestial saint, seldom left his Veena alone for it lent him the “Adhara shruthi” – basic note to chant the name of his beloved God Narayana in tune. Ravana, the villain, of the Ramayana, was supposed to be an exemplary vainika (player of Veena). The Veena, which is our national instrument, gained its status not only because of its mythological importance but also because it was revered and practised by great Indians down the ages. The Gold coin of the Gupta period displaying Samudra Gupta highlights the significance of the instrument. The Sanskrit play, “Swapna Vasavadatta,”

•

It is proven that the sound of the Veena has therapeutic values and can cure a number of common ailments. Playing on the Veena can help kinethestics.

written by Bhasa, revolves around the instrument Veena which is instrumental in weaving a romance between Udayana, the king of Kaushambi, and Vasavadatta, the princess of Ujjaini. It is said that King Udayana was an ace vainika and had the unique ability to capture elephants by playing on the Veena. King Pradyota of Kaushambi captured Udayana using a ploy when he was in the forest and imprisoned him and forced him to teach the art to his daughter Vasavadatta. As both of them were young, handsome and at an impressionable age, Pradyota did not introduce them to each other directly. He drew a curtain between them and told Vasavadatta that Udayana was a leper and told the former that Vasavadatta was a hunchbacked hag. The Veena lessons began and made little progress and the frustrated

instrument known as the Mahanataka Veena, Saraswati Veena, Rudra Veena, Vichitra Veena but the one that is exhaustively played on these days is the Saraswati Veena – the one which is discussed in basic lessons in physics on “Sound.” The Veena, like other things in life, underwent several innovations and modifications and has been in its contemporary form since the 17th century AD. Raghunath Nayak from Tanjavur in Tamil Nadu should be given credit for the final refinement. This instrument is also known as shuddha vaadya or ‘pure instrument’ because one can evince several dozens of octaves from the instrument with precision. This is possible because the Veena is constructed in a very scientific fashion following certain ground

Since the Veena can translate human musical voice accurately, it came to be known as the shuddha vaadya. Sri Muthuswami Dikshitar, one of the Trimurthys of Carnatic music, was a Veena player par excellence. He has the distinction of composing “Note Swaras” which many youngsters mistake to be a piece of classical western music when played on the Veena. Karnataka has taken the cake by nurturing the talents of great vainikas like Veene Seshanna, who honoured the court of Mummudi Krishna Deva Raya, and Veene Subbanna, who adorned the Mysore Durbar during the turn of the twentieth century. It is true that the instrument is played on by some maestros and several budding

Veena

For notes sublime

Veena, our national instrument, continues to rule the hearts of music lovers with its melodious strains. Finding mention in our Vedas and Puranas, the instrument gained popularity not because of its mythological importance but because it was revered and practised by great Indians down the ages. teacher and student called each other names from behind the curtains. When anger got the better of them, the curtain was drawn aside and both of them were pleasantly surprised and instantly attracted to each other. Nevertheless, they continued to play act the Veena lessons and got involved with each other and it is said that Udayana eloped with Vasavadatta on the pretext of testing her skills in the forest! The exotic instrument that caught the imagination of people has been the theme of zealous poets, singers, playwrights, artists, sculptors, dancers among other artists who have left indelible impressions on the minds of people. There are different varieties of the

rules. Though the wood of the jack fruit tree is used to construct the basic body of the conventional Veena, fiber glass Veenas have substituted them these days. The gourd of the Veena is a hollow vacuum with a flat surface connected to a long hollow semi-circular, closed pipe-like structure. The waxine ridge over the wood pipe is punctuated with brass rungs at specific intervals to mark several variations of the notes. This instrument has four main strings to produce music and three ancillary strings tethered to wooden knobs, to pronounce the beat also known as taala. The Veena can be comfortably rested on the thigh by placing the light weight gourd which is made of paper mache or light tin.

artistes even today. This is ample proof that the instrument has relevance and a place in our modern fast paced life. Vainikas like Chitti Babu, R K Suryanarayan, Doraiswamy Iyengar, Suma Sudhindra among others, whose Veena recitals have been captured in cassettes, videos and CDs are instrumental in carrying forth the mystique of Veena. If you have not already heard some of them, do make it a point to listen for no amount of words can capture the resonance of the divine twangs of the Veena. Who knows? You could be inspired and the dormant vainika in you could be awakened!

- Radha Prathi

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 41

Art & Craft

Weaving

Chanderi Dreams

42 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

The allure of Chanderi sarees is almost incomparable. Their drape, delicacy and artistry are closely guarded secrets passed down from one generation to another. Echoing the grandeur of a bygone era, they are products of delicate weaves and subtle designs that come off the looms in Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh.

tourist’s delight, a historian’s dream, Chanderi is a small town nestled in the valley surrounded by the majestic Vindhyachal mountains in Madhya Pradesh. Myth has it that the town was founded by Lord Krishna’s cousin; history records it as the empire of King Ched, dating back to six century BC. Endowed with a rich, glorious past, courtesy the powerful Hindu and Muslim rulers of the region, Chanderi’s cultural heritage includes 375 monuments and mammoth Jain statues dating back to the 11th century. Today, however, this quaint town in Ashoknagar district is best known for the six-yard wonder, spun in cotton, silk and ‘zari’ (gold), also known as the Chanderi sari. Walk into any of the numerous shops lining the streets of the Sadar Bazaar or Narsingh Mandir Chowk and you will find shelvesupon-shelves of shimmering, soft-hued Chanderis available in a variety of colours, patterns and prices. But while the Chanderi sari may be the main attraction of this town, the real stars are the local weavers - half of whom are women. Nearly 5,000 families are part of this cottage industry and the loom - pit, dobby and jacquard occupies the pride of place in every weaver’s home. The work, of course, is hard and back-breaking. Mothers, daughters, wives, sit for around 12 hours a day to create the magic of a Chanderi sari. Too poor to afford electricity for long hours, they rely mostly on sunlight for illumination, which is a strain on their eyes. Their work area is cramped, with the loom, spindles and spool all housed in one small room. A hole dug in the floor acts as the anchor for the loom, while the weaver has to squeeze herself in the two-by-two feet space behind the loom. There is just one advantage: They get to work from home, where they can finish their daily household chores, attend to children and cook food, even as they meet their weaving deadlines.

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 43

Art & Craft and intricacy of motifs make the Chanderi a hot favourite of the rich and the elite. The delicate fabric requires careful handling, otherwise it tends to tear. Chanderi is not what you can call every woman’s attire,” explains Bal Kumud Jaju, a wholesaler. He is the only one from his family to have stayed back in Chanderi to continue their 100-year-old business. Originally from Rajasthan, Jaju’s ancestors migrated to Chanderi several generations ago. They prospered under royal patronage. Today, most of his family members have migrated to different big towns like Hyderabad and Bangalore and have set up big showrooms, where they sell Chanderi along with other weaves. He, however, has remained a Chanderi loyalist. But like all traditional weaves in India,

- Kulsum Mustafa Women’s Feature Service

Weaving was the traditional livelihood in the households of both her father and her husband’s family. Munni had been assisting her husband in this business. When he died, she took over after his death in order to bring up her six children. It was with the earnings from her loom that she got her three daughters married. Today, some of her children do help her out in the work.

While a simple sari takes a day to weave, a middle-of-the-line Chanderi takes anywhere from five to 15 days. The elaborate ones can take around a month to weave. The characteristic feature that marks all Chanderis is a rich gold border and two gold bands at each end of the sari. The more expensive ones have a gold check pattern with lotus motifs all over the fabric. “The fragile lightness, pastel hues 44 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

Incidentally, the government has not been of much help. No effort has been made to provide raw materials, or impart marketing strategies to local weavers. Even the weavers’ groups that have been formed – with a minimum of 10 weavers – have not been able to negotiate any benefits for their lot. Years of neglect have had far reaching consequences. For the women weavers, particularly, life is full of hurdles. Mostly illiterate, they are faced with problems like inadequate healthcare, poor nutrition and indifferent schooling for their children. These women who transform plain thread into dreams that other women wear, are unable to weave a dream life for themselves.

As with most Indian handlooms and handicraft, the skills of Chanderi weaving are mostly passed down through the generations. “Spinning is a family business - many hands are involved. Besides weaving, the women also do many jobs on the side that require delicate handling, like filling spindles, sorting, cutting threads, and so on,” says Munni Bai, 55, who has been a full-time weaver for the last 15 years.

On an average, Munni earns around Rs 3,000 (US$1=Rs 48.5) per month. “Could I have asked for anything more? At least it is dignified labour,” she says, as her sisterin-law Salma, who is also a weaver, nods in agreement. “Chanderi weaving has empowered the women here, as the earnings give them financial stability,” adds Chandra Bahnu, Munni’s brother-in-law.

from Gujarat or Tamil Nadu (Coimbatore) or imported from countries like China, Japan, and Korea, making it difficult for the weavers to manage without the middle-men. Generally, it is the ‘seths’, or owners of big establishments, that provide the raw material – bought from wholesalers - as well as the design for the sari to the weavers, who get a commission, which on an average is about Rs 100 per day. Thus, for an elaborate sari they can get around Rs 3,000, while the shopkeeper can sell it for Rs 7,000 to Rs 9,000.

even the Chanderi trade is on the decline, Jaju confesses. This is because of the widespread availability of fake Chanderis that are priced cheaply. Traditionally woven with pure, handspun cotton and silk, Chanderi saris were patronised by royalty. But that is no longer the case. The price of an original Chanderi can go up to lakhs of rupees, depending on the work and purity of the gold thread used. This means that there are not many buyers for the real thing. The traders and businessmen usually eat away a large chunk of the profits, which ensures that the humble weavers never have the financial resources to buy and store raw material or to do any R&D to improve their technical skills or designing abilities. Even the raw materials - cotton, silk and ‘zari’ thread - used are not available locally; they have to be sourced

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hildhood is about innocence and playfulness. It is about joy and freedom. Children’s Day is an event celebrated on various days in many places around the world. While International Children’s Day is celebrated on June 1 and Universal Children’s Day is on November 20, other countries celebrate a local ‘children’s day’ on other dates. The day is simply set aside to honour children. The International Children’s Day had its origin in Turkey in 1920 (April 23, 1920) and later in the World Conference for the Well-being

46 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

of Children in Geneva, Switzerland in 1925. It is not clear as to why June 1 was chosen as International Children’s Day. One theory has it that the Chinese consul-general in San Francisco (USA) gathered a number of Chinese orphans to celebrate the Dragon Boat Festival in 1925, which happened to be on June 1 that year, and also coincided with the conference in Geneva. Children’s Day was first celebrated worldwide in October 1955, under the sponsorship of International Union for Child Welfare in Geneva. The idea of a Universal Children’s Day was adopted by the United

Nations General Assembly in 1954. Universal Children’s Day was established to encourage all countries to institute a day, firstly to promote mutual exchange and understanding among children and secondly to initiate action to benefit and promote the welfare of world’s children. It was also chosen as the day to celebrate childhood.

November 20 is also the anniversary of the day when the United Nations General Assembly adopted the Declaration of the Rights of the Child in 1959. The Convention on the Rights of the Child was then signed on the same day in 1989, which has since been ratified by 191 states. In India, Children’s Day is celebrated on November 14 every year. This date marks the birth anniversary of independent India’s first Prime Minister, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru. Children’s day is celebrated on this day in recognition of his fondness and work for children. He always regarded children with love and affection, and was well known for being likeable to children. Children also loved him very much and called him “Chacha Nehru”. The day is marked with a lot of activities for children. Celebrating Children’s Day is about giving children the right to enjoy and grow into healthy and educated citizens of the country, and if we can teach our children the value of sharing with others what they are lucky to have, then they will grow into responsible human beings. Photos by Dilip Banerjee

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 47

Monthly forecast November ARIES From feeling friendship to practical considerations is the paradigm shift you now make. You will be concerning yourself with not just feelings but acquisitions and gains as well. Financially, a strange time, in the sense that though loans, funds, joint-finances may be favoured, there may also be debts and liabilities, so you realise the need to tread as warily as possible. Once again, Ganesha exhorts me to stress the need for restraint, caution, wariness, in all that you do or undertake. Passion

TAURUS A month of pandering to the intellect rather than the sense, as in September. I foresee keen involvement with computers, information technology and internet. It’s a time to follow your hunches – both at work and with your mate/ partner. From being mainly professional, the theme now will be purely personal. You focus strongly on relationships - both good and bad. While there will be tremendous togetherness and warmth with close companions and loved ones, at the same

GEMINI

• Bejan Daruwalla and powerful drives hold sway over you, sometimes even against your better judgment. Health and mental well-being could easily take a beating; therefore the need for care is a crying one. And that’s not the whole picture. This will apply to your personal life as well - an affair, a liaison, an undesirable connection, or may be a magnificent obsession, could well be developing, which may overwhelm you, almost. This will apply not just at the emotional and personal level, but in that of all relationships. There can be a new birth or death, so that the family equation changes, making time there can be rivalry bordering on open animosity with an adversary. There is still a valid desire to protect your rights, personal space, in a definite carry over from last month. Stand up for your rights, but don’t do it in a way that will make you lose the affection and care of those you cherish and hold dear. You will excel in creative and artistic effort, in sports events (if so inclined), winning at games of chance, and in all that is mentally stimulating and challenging. Thus, even your work will be personalised as you seek the satisfaction that should

Perhaps Ganesha’s advice only echoed your own realisation of what you need to do. You may be making changes in your job/ profession, in your relationship with colleagues and co-workers, health and diet, even in your wardrobe.

concerning pets, dependents and such on the one hand, and relations with superiors and co-workers on the other, both keeping you occupied. It will not be resented, and you will, in fact, give it your best shot even if it’s not fully appreciated.

There may be some mental strain, or perhaps financial difficulties, particularly relating to held-up payments that are still pending, salaries, servants, health care, employee benefits or perhaps a bad debt and/ or a cheque. So, I see matters

Willingness to help and serve will pay dividends, both materially and in terms of a ‘feel-good’ factor. Flexibility and consideration too. This is not a sermon, just good common sense and it will stand you in good stead. Don’t expect

CANCER

Questions of how to deal with old age, the twilight of your life, both in terms of retirement benefits, pensions and funds and tantra and mantra, religion, meditation, yoga and healthcare will also be important to you, and you seek to address them, and find permanent solutions and answers.

You are now very clear on what your priorities are, and what you want from life. This month, you will be concentrating on home, family and domestic life in all its aspects. Stubbornness, reserve, even an extra measure of authority should be avoided. What you will need is a second helping of discretion, extra inputs of vitality, and tact in handling some hitherto strained relationships.

48 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

The spiritual side of your makeup is greatly energised. It makes you more tolerant of others, and of failures/ setbacks. All this inspires you

fresh demands but also bringing new pleasures and joys. Actually, that just about sums up this extra complicated month. You will be experiencing all kinds of pulls and tugs. A good time to resort to meditation, spirituality, yoga, tantra and mantra to maintain your inner balance. By way of conclusion, let me say that a single word to sum up this month for you could be movement. A shift in home/ office, or even a job or transfer to a new place, perhaps even migrating to a new country. A feeling of being somewhat unsettled is only to be expected, therefore, but you recognise the need to cope. get inbuilt into enjoying your work. Travel, writing, lecturing, publishing are all favoured towards the end of the month. Ganesha warns you that there probably will be stiff competition from a quarter you were rather complacent about. You want to strive for greater personal liberty, for freedom and pleasure but will have to hurt others as well as yourself to do so. I hope you will not find the cost too great. Please remember that it is yourself in relation to the world around you and you have to exist in that very world that we all inhabit, and love. gratitude and appreciation . The time for fun is not exactly over, but there will be some important issues that are vying for your attention. Do not become over –burdened by others’ hopes, expectations and problems. On the other hand, don’t imagine neglect or lack of caring where none exist and feel slighted or hurt. It’ll help you retain your equilibrium, to be happier and more at peace with yourself and those around you. intellectually and there is vitality in your ideas. You are immensely creative, even inspired. Needless to say, it has a major impact on your work, productivity and achievement. You find yourself overhauling finances, renovating and rebuilding property and house, thinking of moral values, building lasting relationships – any or all of the above within the framework of your plan for life and living well. It’s a fine way to be heading, says Ganesha.

Forecast LEO From the theme of last month, it is obvious that this month would bring stronger ties all round – of family, love, friendship, the words. However, in this closeness and family bonding, Ganesha advises you that it is still wise to keep your own counsel about certain matters, even assets. Don’t put all your cards on the table in negotiations, even family conferences.

LIBRA There’s no disputing the fact that it’s been a good year for you, Librans. Gains, satisfaction and, I hope, suitable gratitude to Ganesha should now come to you. But He is still generous and doesn’t end the flow. There is a depth of sensual and emotional sharing which is profoundly satisfying. Work proceeds smoothly and

SCORPIO This month, there will be a clear-cut demarcation into two distinctly different types of progress, and yet they are linked. The first half sees you as the social animal, partying, entertaining and being entertained, projecting the best possible profile, full of glamour and charm, love and charisma. How you appear to others is mighty important. But suddenly, this world of glamour and gaiety no longer seems so attractive. Halfway down this exercise, you

VIRGO You may forge an enduring partnership – either for business or pleasure – which will strengthen you and restore your faith in the loyalty of people. You could just make some social blunder, or perhaps encounter certain hindrances. Your own mindset is such that you cope more than well; quite brilliantly, in fact. This month, the emphasis is on the house of intellectual achievements, on the pursuit of knowledge leading to wisdom on a more practical level. It will

At any rate, a lot of financial matters like taxes, estate duty, expenses, have to be accounted for. Achievements are almost a certainty, though of course there are no guarantees apart from hard work and effort. And you’re no slouch at effort and hard work. Now your orientation is to enlarge your horizons. It is with this in your mind that you now gather your loved ones close, turn to home/ house property,

efficiently, leaving you free to concentrate on several other things. Not that you’re neglectful at, or of, work. You just need to pursue several other interests that please you. What is equally satisfying is the smooth, easy flow of money. It certainly oils the wheels of life, but don’t be caught or dragged into an over-spending binge, especially on entertaining and entertainment. This too may come out

change tack. You turn back to quiet times, introspection, and family time for your own satisfaction. A month when you go ahead, make giant strides in terms of progress – the form it takes will vary, of course. In fact, says Ganesha, it does change since you are never too far removed from a higher consciousness. Now, it’s the inner you that matters – and to you, not to others, in terms of mental and spiritual growth. Here, even a disappointment/ hurt in love may have made you do some

be a favourable time for acquiring new skills or honing existing ones, research, teaching, exchanging ideas, theories, hypotheses and opinions, though not so good for signing deeds, documents and MOUs. In that respect, I would prefer to describe it with my two favourite Cs – contacts and communication. I have to clarify though, that this is more a meeting and mating of minds than on the physical level, or even the emotional one, as it was in the preceding two months. Your

your territory, your turf. Perhaps, there’s slight ill-health to motivate you. You’re certainly thinking in terms of old-age benefits, retirement schemes, provision for the future for you and your family. It is in this vein that renovation/ improvement/ construction/ acquisitions for the home are undertaken, too. You have a certain vision of how you wish to live, and the determination to pursue it both at home and in your job.

of your initial desire to project yourself better in the eyes of others. It is not the way to ``win friends and influence people’’, and anyway, you don’t need it! Your charm, attitude, and caring nature, will more than suffice, says Ganesha. And you do realise that more than anything else, this is what you need to work at, strive for. Your relationships are the foundations for your success and personal happiness too.

heavy thinking and come to conclusions that help you grow spiritually. Friendships, relationships and losses may have been demanding, and perhaps even a little disappointing. A sense of not being valued for yourself, of being let down, could have been bothering you. But you know that in faith and spirituality there is true strength. You can turn defeats into victories. Or, at least, to mental and intellectual gains. For all of us, and specially so for Scorpios, these are the best of all gains.

subjectivity has given place to this more mature, very thinking persona. And, the benefits not only come to you, but expand to include personal bonding, family interactions and genuine friendship. A further shift in focus as you veer more towards the Cs of creativity and caring, rather than just success. Family links and ties, especially with siblings and cousins, will prove to be all important, as also hobbies and creative pursuits, and involvement with children’s affairs, says Ganesha.

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 49

Forecast SAGITTARIUS You’re great to know, fun to be with. Patience, good humour and your own friendliness and generosity ensure that you get love and pleasure in equal measure. You have skill, authority, largeheartedness. It is therefore easy to connect with those who have a strong helpful effect on the goals you’ve set yourself. Here, mutual efforts go smoothly, and assistance is shared. Household and family matters require time, effort, money and you give unstintingly. Even your business/ professional concerns could

AQUARIUS Ganesha suggests that we first look at day-to-day concerns, the more mundane matters of life. Long-distance and foreign connections, exchange and trade will be favoured. You’ll travel a fair amount and may strike up a chance acquaintance who shares your views, ideals and ideas. Also, you deal with a kind of weariness, even disillusionment, that sets in even though both close relationships and shared entertainment are there, but

be relegated far back. Group activities, gatherings, parties and social events see you scintillating, fulfilled and happy. It will be reflected in both your personal and professional interactions, both of which will be truly impressive. The reason is well sustained communication from your end, most definitely. New directions are enjoyable and satisfying, as November moves into your birth period. A word of advice is called for here- don’t take this mood of sharing into financial arena. That is risky, warns Ganesha, and so also is overdoing it – something

you’re quite prone to. It will make for stress, exhaustion, even ill-health. And how then are you going to do justice to, and fully enjoy, the riches of love, bonding, camaraderie and friendship that are Ganesha’s bounty to you? After all, they have not just happened. You have been considered deserving of them by Him. It makes your cup of joy really overflow. Greater and steadily growing self-knowledge and awareness makes for changed attitude, to life and loving in particular. The glamour and dazzle are almost blinding right now.

you cope. You are helped also by your own infinitely more positive outlook, as a result of your spiritual gains and intellectual ones, too. That I why the phrase - ``work is worship’’ - could perhaps sum up this whole month and the month ahead as well.

These are, perhaps, the triggers for your remarkable spiritual awakening and resurgence. This month reorients you to your lasting values, and greater idealism is the result, in conjunction with heightened consciousness and conscience, that come hand in hand with true and sincere spirituality and faith. All these help greatly in taking on the challenges you may need to face as you look ahead at the month to come, and the new year to follow.

However, let me hasten to add that it’s not only slogging and hard, unrelenting work. A month of exaltation, true spirituality, intellectual and moral growth – a truly cosmic gift comes to you from Ganesha.

CAPRICORN

to gadgets, comforts/ luxuries of your home, your lifestyle. Also, enhancing the security and comfort levels of loved ones - your children, your pets, and your dependents. By house, I mean acquiring, enhancing, redecorating or building your own property, construction and things to do with land. To sum up what you’re feeling is easy. An excerpt from an old Masefield poem, to sum up the theme for the month. ``Home is a sailor, home from the sea And the hunter home from the hill.’’

That’s you, this month, Capricornians. In fact, it applies all the time for you, home-loving people. Home and family are paramount for you. At any rate, all your interactions and relationships with loved ones will be satisfying, happy, fulfilling. It will also be sacrosanct – despite the time you spend on partying, socialising, entertaining as well as entertainment. You are building up a strong citadel of family life, love and affection. And you’re playing for keeps! And for high stakes, of course.

PISCES

wise, you certainly prosper and gain, even win lotteries/ legacies and gifts can come to you (may or may not be related to your moving). It certainly makes for financial security. Your values too are redefined, renewed and revamped as you strive for emotional balance, security and steadiness. And that’s probably going to be your greatest gain.

personal angle. You realise that it wears you out to have strife and discord with yourself, as well as with others. It leads to stress, health problems and loss of vitality. This could happen when you are concluding or winding up some projects/ enterprises/ even relationships. You will be achieving some milestones and standards and also setting new ones. Birth and death are both dealt with.

The last two months have possibly led to spectacular success in financial matters, power-driven you to a very comfortable position indeed, in terms of the easy flow of money. This month brings you much greater involvement with home, heart and house. Let me elucidate the use of the 3 Hs – they will all seem similar. Home here means involvement with loved ones, heart, the joys and commitments of domesticity, family matters; adding

There is much in terms of movement and growth for you in all spheres this month. A look first at movement. You move away, physically, from one place to another city/ town, or just shift your home. In addition, you move away from a relationship that you felt to be restrictive, even making you dependent instead of free – most likely with an older person or someone in authority. You want a certain freedom to be your own person – as I’ve already described above, at great length. Money-

50 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

It will also enhance, colour and intensify all other further gains, further insights, as you strive for both true selfknowledge and success in the world. This applies to professional/ social and

You strive to define yourself afresh, and also strive for a true, complete, selfcontained independence that goes beyond personal space and personal belief.

VAASTU for you...

cozy, comfortable and well-laid-out house is every man’s dream. But, achieving this dream is no mean task. First of all, one may not get the site of his preference and even if does get one, it may not be possible to build his dream house on it. It is good that people are becoming increasingly conscious of the importance of the science of vaastu in house building. An apprehension is gripping them that they may come to grief if the house they own or live in is not built according to the norms of vaastu. Very often, it may not be possible for them to convert their houses in conformity with these norms, due to practical problems and financial constraints. More so, if they have purchased built houses. But, nothing to worry, assures Dr Ramesh Kamath, Karnataka’s leading vaastu expert. He asserts that vaastu itself offers them a way out of their predicament. With little alteration and much less cost, the owners can make their dwellings vaastu-friendly and live in comfort and prosperity. And, more importantly, in peace. The following are the excerpts of an interview with Dr.Ramesh Kamath:

WHAT IS VAASTU? “Desah pura Nivasascha sadbhaveesma sannanicha Yadhya Dheedrusa manyascha thatha shreyaskaram Matham Vastu Shasthraa Dhruthe-tysa Na syalLakshananirnaya: Thasmath Lokasya Krupaya Saathamethadhurir yathe” As the above Sanskrit shloka declares, vaastu is the very embodiment of the allpowerful God and Nature. Its aim is to make man enjoy supreme bliss by following what it enjoins. It is interesting to note that Sthaapatya Veda, a part of the ancient Indian lore of Yajurveda, lays down norms for the construction of houses, temples and mutts. It says that vaastu means the dwelling place of a man and that vaastu purusha (that is the incarnation of God in the form of vaastu) dwells in it. Vaastu purusha’s head lies in the north-east corner of the house and his feet lie in the south-west. Though purusha literally

Vaastu Vaastu Yogi Dr Ramesh Kamath has been studying the ancient, but almost-neglected science of vaastu for nearly two decades. He has applied his knowledge in thousands of houses to the satisfaction of dwellers. He has also evolved his own vaastu science called 3D VAASTU and has been guiding people in following it up in housebuilding.

presiding deities

means a male, it stands for God in the spiritual context and vaastu helps one to become one with Him.

VAASTU AND THE COMMON MAN Vaastu is based on earth’s directions, whose knowledge is essential to understand it. The common man generally knows four directions, but eight of them are important in vaastu. An expert, however, can identify as many as 128 directions. The direction in front of us is east, while we face the sun in the morning. At our back is west. To our right and left are south and north directions. Four more are secondary directions. North-east (eeshaanya) is between north and east. In this direction is the head of Vaastu Purusha. It is called God’s direction and hence God’s Room (deva gruha) where the family prays and worships God, is located in this direction. Norht-west (vaayavya) is the one between north and west and is dedicated to the moon. Since moon is believed to be fickle, no one in the household has the dwelling room in it. South-east (aagneya) is the one between these two main directions. It is known as the corner of Fire God (agni moola). It is common practice to locate the kitchen in this direction. South-west (Nairutya), intervening between these two main directions, is said to be dear to the spirits. Vaastu Purusha’s feet are believed to be here and hence given prime importance to while rectifying vaastu-based defects in house construction. These eight directions have their own presiding deities. Learning about these deities is the first stage in understanding the science of vaastu.

According to vaastu science, the four main and four secondary directions totalling eight - east, north, south, west and eeshaanya, aagneya, nairutya and vaayavya - have a presiding deity each. Buddha (Mercury) is the presiding deity of north and Kubera, the Lord of Wealth, is established in it. Normally, those whose dwelling rooms are situated in this direction focus more on their wealth. Mangala (Mars) presides over south and Yama, the God of Death, is established in it. That is why it is believed that the dwelling rooms of a house should not be built in that direction. But, according to vaastu, no direction is bad and each one has both good and bad elements, scientifically called paada. One has to understand these good and bad elements to overcome all constructional defects. Ravi (Sun) is the presiding deity of east. Since Indra is located towards it, it is said that those having their dwelling rooms in this direction are theists. Shani (Saturn) lords it over west, in which direction is Varuna (God of Rains) established. Shani is the slowest-moving planet and therefore those residing in that direction are the slowest to prosper. Guru (Jupiter) is the presiding deity of eeshaanya, towards which lies Vaastu Purusha’s head. This is known to be the source of water (jala sthaana). Similarly, aagneya has Shukra (Venus) as the presiding deity and is associated with fire (agni moola). That is why it is best to have the kitchen in that direction. Rahu, the king of demons, and chandra (Moon) preside over nairutya and vaayavya respectively. Vaayu (Wind God) is located in the latter direction and utmost attention should be given to it in maintaining cleanliness. To be continued... Vastu Yogi Dr Ramesh Kamath may be contacted for vaastu advice on 9845193432; email: kamath52@yahoo.com

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 51

Yoga may mean different things to different people, but its ultimate objective remains the union of the individual consciousness with the universal consciousness.

yoga? What exactly is

52 â&#x20AC;˘ November 2009 â&#x20AC;˘ India Immemorial

Yoga

f a novice to the field of yoga asks six different people on what yoga is, he/ she will possibly get six different, unrelated a n s w e r s . Yoga is a series of postures; yoga is a variety of breathing exercises; yoga is sitting quietly and meditating; yoga is the ability to gain supernatural powers like the ability to walk on water and fly. The description of yoga is like the story of six blind men describing an elephant. One feels the legs and believes that the elephant is like a tree, the other believes that it is like a spear, the third a snake, etc. Thus, the limitations of one’s own perceptions prevent one from understanding how the complete elephant looks like! So is the case with yoga. There may be millions of practitioners in the world today but the clarity of what yoga is and what its ultimate aim is are possibly known only to a few. The best way to know about any subject is to trace its source – its origin and its definitions. It has been said that yoga is as old as civilisation itself and that it was first taught by Lord Shiva to his wife Parvati. A scan through our ancient treatises and scriptures traces the definition in the Ahirbudhnya Samhita, which states that ‘yoga is the union of the individual consciousness with the universal consciousness.’ A definition which would be very difficult to comprehend today although one can intellectually perceive that the aim of yoga is moksha, or freedom from the cycles of birth and death wherein the individual soul merges with the cosmic soul. The Bhagavad Gita makes umpteen references to yoga or the paths of yoga. It defines yoga as sammatvam yoga uchyate – yoga is equanimity and Lord Krishna in the Gita also provides the means of attaining this equanimity by stating yogah karmasukaushalam, which means that skillfulness in action is the means of attaining yoga. A few centuries later, Sage Patanjali, in his treatise on yoga, defines yoga as yogah cittah vrittih nirodhah – yoga is the restraint of the fluctuations of the consciousness and in the latter part of his text, he provides the means of attaining this as tapas svadhyaya Ishvara pranidhanani kriya yogah – intense zeal, self study and practice and surrender to God is kriya yogah. Wow! There were at least five different definitions of yoga even 2,500 years ago. Are they all referring to different yogas? Were they as confused about what yoga is then as it appears to us today? At the outset, there does not seem to be any clear ‘relationship’ between these definitions. If we have a closer look then all will appear crystal clear. Let us start with the definitions in the Gita. Yoga is equanimity. It is balance in all our thoughts, emotions, acts and deeds. Suppose we express or are affected by attachment and hatred then that is

nothing but emotional in-equanimity and when equanimity does not exist then merger or the union of the individual soul with the universal one is not possible. It also goes on to provide the means of attaining this equanimity is by attaining skill in whatever we do. There does exist a link between the definition of yoga in the Samhita and the Gita! If there is no sammvatam (equanimity), then there can be no union. What the Samhita and Gita say is even applicable today on all fronts and walks of modern life. There can be no union between two organisations or two individuals or members of an organisation if there is no equanimity between them. Union is the aim of yoga and equanimity is the base of yoga! Now, let us look at Patanjali’s definition. Yoga is the restraint in the fluctuations of consciousness. What is consciousness? We understand what is unconscious but what exactly is consciousness and how does one restrain the movements of this consciousness? And in what way is this related to the yoga referred to the yoga of the Samhita and the Gita? So, let us first understand consciousness or what in Sanskrit is referred to as chitta. Consciousness is composed of three components – mind, intelligence and ego. Yoga is the restraint in the fluctuations of the mind, intelligence and ego. Stability, which in other words is ‘restraint of the fluctuations’ in the mind and intelligence, occurs if there is equanimity. So, indeed there does exist a connection between the yogas of different eras. The aim of yoga is union; the objective is equanimity in the mind, intelligence and ego. Having known the aims and objectives – one needs to know the means of attaining these objectives. That is explained by Patanjali as the eight-fold path of yoga or ashtanga yoga. The eight aspects of ashtanga yoga are yama (social discipline), niyama (personal discipline), asana (moulding the body into various positions to channelise the flow of energy), pranayama (regulation of prana – the life force), pratyahara (involution of the senses of perception), dharana (concentration), dhyana (meditation) and samadhi (ultimate state of bliss). Thus, this ashtanga yoga explains the means towards the aim of yoga – moksha! These eight aspects do not work independently. Each of them supports the other and prepares the soul for its ultimate aim. For example, what Gandhiji achieved by following the yama of satya and ahimsa are known to all. By the practice of asana, one gets a healthy body, peace of mind, clarity of thought and intelligence and emotional equanimity. The practice of pranayama brings with it storehouse energy which in turn can be correctly channelised by the practice of asana. The practice of asana and pranayama in turn develops the capacity towards dharana and leads to dhayana. Even in today’s world, imagine the strength of an individual flush with health and vitality, a balanced state of mind and emotions, and intellectual clarity! Thus, this journey on the path of yoga is flush with fruits of all kinds. These fruits not only make the journey interesting and enjoyable but also make life livable, despite all the ups and downs, not only for the individual following this journey but also for those around him. - Rajvi

H Mehta

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 53

Photos by author

Ancient Art

Terracotta

Bonanza V

ishnupur in West Bengal has grown to be an attraction for tourists and lovers of art and architecture today on account of its finely carved terracotta temples erected by the Malla kings of Vishnupur in the late medieval period. An ancient capital of Mallabhum, Vishnupur, in the district of Bankura, is a repository of some very excellent terracotta temples. These temples seem to speak something to tourists, visitors and connoisseurs of art. To a casual visitor, terracotta temples

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mean Vishnupur, which is easily accessible through train and bus. All the charm that Vishnupur spells is its exuberantly terracotta 窶電ecorated temples that have won applause from all lovers of art. Vishnupur is an ideal spot for a short holiday. Board a Vishnupur-bound bus from Kolkata or Howrah and you may be there in a few hours. Later, you may go out to visit some very beautiful terracotta temples in the town, which are well-known.

The brick temples at Vishnupur were built between 17th and 18th centuries when the art of terracotta reached its zenith in Bengal during the reign of Malla kings. The temples are located in the ruined fort area and its neighbourhood. They exemplify superb architectural and sculptural devices sponsored by the Malla kings. The Malla kings were the chief patrons of art and culture. In the late 16th century, when the religious fervour of Gaudiya Vaishnavism led by Sri Chaitanya swept Bangal, thousands of Radha-Krishna,

Vishnupur in West Bengal is a rich repository of some excellent terracotta temples. Built in 17th-18th centuries, these temples exemplify the splendid architectural and sculptural devices sponsored by the Malla kings.

episodes of the Ramayana, the Mahabharata and the puranas found charming expression in brick carvings. Scenes of Sankirtana by Gauranga (Sri Chaitanya), Nityananda and their followers were exuberantly depicted in innumerable terracotta plaques evincing fine artistic compositions. The oldest brick temple at Vishnupur is a curiously shaped ‘Rasamancha’ with an elongated pyramidal tower surrounded by small hut-shaped turrets reported to have been built by

Beera Hambira, a Malla king, towards the end of 16th century (circa 1600 AD). On its eastern façade, there are a few statues depicting the scenes of Sankirtana (people singing in praise of Hari) indicating a definite improvement in the art of terracotta. Terracotta decorations on brick temples gained further momentum during the reign of Raghunatha Sinha, son of Beera Hambira, who built at least two fine brick temples – the pancha ratna temple of Shyama Rai (1643 AD) and Jor Bangla temple of Keshta Rai (1655 AD). The latter has two

eka-banglas attached together, one in the front as porch and the other in the rear as shrine in which the deity was installed. It has two roof surfaces and gable ends, both the cornices and the ridge having pronounced curves. The temple of Shyama Rai with its superior figurines, floral motifs and geometrical designs is the first of its kind in Bengal. The decorations are plentiful and crowded in every centimeter of its columns, inset on both the exterior and interior walls and the ceilings.

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Ancient Art mostly Rama-Ravana confrontation or the Lanka battle or sometimes Kurukshetra war, Krishna Leela or Ram Leela. The episodes of Krishna and Rama are found in almost all the temples of Vishnupur. Tiny figures of puranic deities, such as Dasamahavidya and Navagraha are generally embedded in the niches on both sides of the façade and just below the cornices.

The temple of Madanamohana in the Sankharipara area, the best known in Vishnupur, was built outside the fort compound by King Durjana Sinha Deva, the son of Beera Sinha and the grandson of Raghunatha Sinha in 1694 AD. This is a brick temple of eka-ratna style (a square flat-roofed building with curved cornices, surmounted by a pinnacle) with rich decorations on the façade. For sheer variety of designs around

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each terracotta plaque, with tiny figures in bas relief, the temple surpasses the Shyama Rai and Keshta Rai temples. Here, for the first time, there are terracotta plaques bigger than those used in the other two temples, with clearly marked borders carved with floral motifs and other designs that add to their beauty. The friezes above the trefoil arches of these temples depict impressive scenes from the Ramayana, the Mahabharata and the puranas,

Among the 17th century terracotta temples of Bengal, the Shyama Rai and the Kesha Rai temples are outstanding not only for their lavishly decorated plaques but also for their finesse. The most vigorous battle scenes, huge Rasamandalas of drummers and dancers around Venugopala, Bheeshma on the bed of arrows, rows of devotees, Bali throwing Ravana upside down, Gandharvas, mythological creatures like the winged lions and, among secular scenes, the Raja being carried in his palanquin, a wife rubbing her husband’s legs, boatload of soldiers fighting in the river, a party of musicians, a tiger devouring a man, leaping monkeys and deer – all these and others lead one to a dreamland of terracotta. Apart from temples, Vishnupur has some attractive bandhs or large tanks to offer the tourists good sight-seeing. The tanks, Lalbandh, Krishnabandh and Pokabandh, were excavated around 17th-18th centuries by the Malla kings

to provide water to citizens and to protect the town from the attack of enemies by pumping water towards them. A fair, Vishnupur Mela, is held every year in the last week of December when visitors from all over the world gather in the vicinity of the Madanamohana temple compound to witness the cultural heritage of Mallabhum. All these are reminiscences of the pristine glory of Vishnupur, which is now a sprawling town. Attempts are being made by the government to transform it into an attractive tourist sport for art and culture. Public interest for this small town is growing by the day.

How to reach Vishnupur is 200 km north-west of Howrah. The place can be reached by local trains either from Howrah or from Kharagpur. Bus service is also available from Kolkata and Howrah. It takes hardly four hours by bus to reach this historic place. Government tourist lodges and hotels are available at Vishnupur to accommodate the tourists.

- Debabrata Banerjee

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Cityscape

At home in

Hyderabad Hyderabad is a city steeped in history. Relating tales of grandeur from a bygone era are the many landmarks of the city, ranging from grand palaces and forts to museums and mosques.

ike any of the capital cities in India, the traffic in Hyderabad makes commuting quite intolerable. Going around to see the sights by public transport becomes not only a nightmare, but expensive as well. That is why, I found, the most sensible decision I made, was to take a one day city tour, with the Andhra Pradesh Tourist Corporation. It’s inexpensive at Rs 240 per head, which is inclusive of all entrance fees for Indians, throughout the day. Foreigners have a higher entrance fee to pay, which is fair, given the exchange rate of any currency is more than ten times the rupee.

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Photos by author India Immemorial â&#x20AC;˘ November 2009 â&#x20AC;˘ 59

Cityscape The trip started off at ‘Indian stretchable time’, at 8 am, instead of 7:40 am as advertised, so make sure you have a breakfast before setting out! The first stop on the trip was the Birla Mandir, which the guide told us was fashioned out of 2,000 tons of white marble and is built at a height of 280 feet. Get ready to climb a lot of stairs to get to the temple and removal of footwear is mandatory. Just before you get back onto the bus, pick up some piping hot idli, vada and chutney to snack on at a little wayside

shop, before the next stop. We drove along the imposing Hussain Sagar Lake built in 1562, with its enormous statue of Buddha in the centre. All along the sides of the lake there are delightful gardens and a whole row of statues of the country’s celebratory icons, starting with the Rani of Jhansi. “Does the leg of the horse poised in the air send out a message of how she died?” asks Vince Wilson, a visitor from Texas, on the tour. In the west, apparently, by looking at the pose

of the legs of the horse the warrior is seated on, one can tell if the warrior died by natural causes or was slain in battle. Soon, the bus was in the old city and because we had set out early, the roads were clear and we were travelling at a reasonable pace. Small shops stuffed with spices and condiments lined the roads and this is where one gets a sense of history of the city. “Look ahead. We are coming to the Char Kaman (four arches) and just ahead of that is the Charminar,”

The Hussain Sagar Lake, built in 1562, has an enormous statue of Buddha in the centre. All along the sides of the lake are delightful gardens and a whole row of statues of the country’s celebratory icons.

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The Jubilee Hall was built recently in 1937 by Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan, in Indo-Persian classic architectural style. A huge part of the Burma teak forests was transported to Hyderabad to build his mind boggling, walk-in wardrobe. said the guide. Unfortunately, because of terror threats, stops at the Charminar are disallowed, so we had to crick our necks and peer at the gorgeous monument through the bus windows. Built by the Kutub Shahi Kings, the Charminar is worth a separate visit, just to go around it on foot and ogle at its intricate stucco work. Rising up in the middle of a gaggle of tiny shops, the Charminar could be likened to the Brandenburg Gate in Germany, or the Place de la Concorde in Paris, but in my eyes, far more beautiful. The Laad Bazaar, which is in a gully that branches off from the Charminar, is the place to shop for a wrist full of bangles. Our next stop was the Jubilee Hall, built recently in 1937 by Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan, in Indo-Persian classic architectural style. A huge part of the Burma teak forests was transported to Hyderabad to build his mind boggling, walk-in wardrobe. About 300-odd cupboards full of his perfumes and toiletries, down to his imported suspenders and ivory bejeweled walking sticks, were on display. A still functioning, manually-operated lift made in England stood at one end of the room, which saved the royal legs the extra effort of walking up and down the Burma teak spiral staircase. Another huge hall held all the priceless silver gifts he was given on the occasion of his 25th jubilee as Nizam. India Immemorial â&#x20AC;˘ November 2009 â&#x20AC;˘ 61

150 - year - old St. George Church

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Cityscape

The Charminar, built by the Kutub Shahi Kings, rises up in the middle of a gaggle of tiny shops. The Laad Bazaar, which is in a gully that branches off from the Charminar, is the place to shop for a wrist full of bangles. Manoeuvring his way through the crowded bylanes, the bus halted in front of enormous wooden gates. When they groaned open, a collective gasp went around the bus. The unbelievable wealth of the Nizam was on display at the Chow Mohalla (four palaces) complex. Here, four fabulous palaces have been thrown open to public after refurbishing and renovation. Personal pictures of the royal family, which have never been se e n before, are on display and the lush gardens and tinkling fountains have been recreated of a bygone era. Pigeons flutter off minarets in an arc in the hot afternoon sun and the gold inlaid Belgian chandeliers whisper secrets of an era of beautiful women and lavish lifestyles. The Salar Jung Museum has become a paean to the fabulous collections of the three Nizams – I, II and III. Let me assure you, the treasures in the museum can leave you breathless with their beauty. Even the pieces in the Louvre in Paris cannot come a close second in comparison. These Nizams, besides

being the richest men in the world, were connoisseurs of art, a combination which has left art lovers of the world a museum full of priceless paintings and objects d’art. If you are lucky, Nizam’s jewels may be on display with pigeon egg sized rubies and emeralds and, of course, diamonds from the famed Golconda mines. My favourite rooms are the clock collection and the jade collection. Pity that the clocks are not all kept in working order. Next on our schedule was a stop for a veggie meal at the Taramati Hotel which, in true Hyderabadi style, was built by the Nizam for his favourite nautch girl, Taramati! Then came the jewel in the crown - a visit to the Golconda Fort. Over the years, one can see that the AP Government is making a concerted effort to conserve this mammoth heritage site. Entrance at just Rs 5 per head has the crowds queuing up to savour the magnificence of the fort built by the Kakatiya Kings of Warrangal in 1143. Later, it was wrested from them by the Qutub Shahi Dynasty. The Son-et-lumiere

show held at night is worth the effort if you would like the hoary history of the fort to be brought to life. Later, flag down an auto-rickshaw to take you to ‘Paradise’, to enjoy a biriyani for dinner. Skip using a fork to eat- a true Hyderabadi says, the taste of the meal is decidedly different, if eaten with the tips of your fingers! Order a plate of kalmi kebabs and a fresh lime soda to enjoy along with your biriyani. After the meal, a cup of Kubani-ka-meetha (a dessert made of pureed apricots) with a dollop of vanilla icecream, is a must. We had to wait for 15 minutes in the waiting room, before a table in the huge restaurant freed up, to seat us! Hyderabad is a great fusion of the old and the new and is perfect to visit during the early months of the year, before the heat sets in. Yatri Nivas tickets can be bought at Basheerbagh - 040-23298458 or Secunderabad: SP Road - 040-27893100.

- Marianne de Nazareth India Immemorial • November 2009 • 63

Step &

see

Chand Baori is a famous stepwell situated at Abhaneri village near Jaipur in Rajasthan. This stepwell is located opposite the Harshat Mata Temple and is one of the deepest and largest stepwells in India. It was built in 9th century and has 3,500 narrow steps, 13 stories, and is 100 feet deep. It is a fine example of the architectural excellence prevalent in the past.

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Beautiful India

Valley of Flowers

Photos by author

India’s Fairy 66 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

Land

The Valley of Flowers in the Himalayas is no less than a fairy land with its rich spread of rare plants, trees and flowers. It sure is nature’s very own garden.

henever we talk of the Himalayas, the idea of lofty mountains capped in snow, deep valleys with tall coniferous tress and white frothy streams conjure up in our minds. But, the mighty range of the Himalayas has more than that to offer to admirers of beauty. Amidst the slopes and depressions of its valleys, delicate enough to be termed a fragile environment, are a rich spread of rare plants and trees. More interestingly, the infinite variety of wild flowers, equally fragile, makes the Himalayas all the more pleasant and charming.

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Beautiful India Even though the blooming of colourful flowers takes place all over the Himalayas up to the treeline of around 15,000 ft during the months of July-September, in one particular valley hidden away from civilization, the exotic array of beautiful flowers happens so copiously as to mesmerise anyone venturing there. This is the Valley of Flowers situated in the Garhwal Himalayas of Uttarakhand. The valley is tucked away in the higher reaches of the Himalayas between Badarinath and Joshimath of Chamoli district and the only way to make it there is on foot. Naturally, it remained hidden for centuries and was discovered only as late as 1930s. It was actually in the year 1932 that the existence of such a mysterious valley came to be known. Noted mountaineer Frank Smythe was returning from an expedition to Mt. Kamet and he accidentally stumbled upon this valley. It was sheer coincidence that the flowers were in full bloom at that time, making the whole valley dappled with colour. Mesmerised as he was, Frank brought it to the notice of the outside world and this rediscovery put the place in high esteem as an exotic destination for naturalists, botanists and adventurers. Ever since, year after year, the months of July-August see thousands of trekkers making a beeline to the valley to look at nature’s very own garden. Sitting pretty almost next to the Valley of Flowers, but on a higher elevation, is the wellknown and sacred Gurudwara, the Hemkund Sahib. According to Guru Granth Sahib, the religious scripture, Sant Guru Govind Singh had in his previous life meditated for 300 years beside a holy lake surrounded by seven peaks named as Saptha Shring. The efforts to trace this lake bore fruit when, in 1932 again, Havildar Sohan Singh located it here and called it the Lokpal Lake. Later, this came to be known as Hemkund Sahib and is now a highly venerated destination for the devout Sikh. If one group of visitors is intent on seeing the beauty of the valley and its numerous flowers, another sets upon the hard trek to observe a religious obligation. Eventually, all the visitors fulfill both and come back rejuvenated.

weak, women and children can get the services of a pony or a dolie, a wooden chair carried by four persons. But trekking up the path at an easy pace helps to take in the sights of the valley slowly. Trudging up the stoned trail with umpteen switchbacks the tiny village of Pulna is reached. The availability of hundreds of tea shops and kiosks all the way is a great relief as at every bend there is a cup of tea to sip and a panorama to behold. Half way through, a very tall waterfall cascades down the deep chasm in a thin line and seems to move along as the trail goes up gradually beside the speeding river. Bhyunder is a slightly bigger village with many shops and shelters. The chief attraction here is the Hathi Parbat Mountain, high in the sky, often covered by fog or clouds. When revealed, the elephant head and its back in pure white is awesome. At Ghangaria, life becomes busy again with numerous restaurants, lodges and tuck shops, not to forget hordes of people, ponies and dogs.

This July, while returning from Badarinath after a tough venture in the mountains, it struck my mind that a break should be made to visit this valley. Having been there once before, many years ago, only sparked more interest to relook at the beauty of nature once more.

The route to the valley goes up and left to a check post. The Valley of Flowers, declared a National Park in 1982 and also a Unesco World Heritage site in 2005, is a protected area maintained by the Forest Department with the Eco Development Committee. The entry to the park which is 9 km long and 3 km wide is regulated and the trekking paths designated.

Govindghat, 30 km down Badarinath, is the town where the route to the valley deviates. With dozens of hotels, eateries and shops, this busy settlement serves as the base for trekking up further. The Gurudwara here offers all the facilities needed for pilgrims – food, accommodation, locker for valuables, et al. It is at Ghangaria, a still smaller inhabitation 13 km up the mountain that the paths to the Valley of Flowers and Hemkund forks. The physically

Visitors to the valley have to walk up (no ponies) on an easy slope beside the white foaming river of Pushpawathi, crossing many bridges. The head of the valley reached after six km brings into view a long stretch of green valley sprinkled with rich colourful flowers. The narrow trail goes through the valley with bushes of flowers on either side swaying with the breeze seemingly welcoming the visitor. Most of the flowers are tiny and in attractive

inflorescences. The bigger ones are the wild roses and asters. The other commonly found species are the orange coloured inulas, erigerons in violet, pink potentillas and varieties of geranium and primula. The blue poppy with its bright blue colour is outstanding. Several species of fern and leaf structures of certain plants also lend variety. With more than 300 species identified already, there is every possibility that many more unknown varieties could be blooming somewhere in the valley. It is really astonishing how so many wonderful flowers could spring up here. This unique occurrence has only made botanists the world over visit this valley and conduct their study and research work. Margaret Legge was one such enthusiast who frequented the valley and it was too unfortunate that she once slipped from a ledge and got killed. Her burial though stands amidst these wild flowers! Though not much of wildlife except the blue sheep and bears could be sighted occasionally, the many species of birds that the park boasts of do entice birdwatchers. Apart from eye catching flowers, the valley is also home to many medicial plants and some orchids. Many fruits found here are tempting with their rich colours and fleshy appearances, but while some of them are edible, quite a few of them are poisonous. This was what probably kept away early visitors from nearby villages who thought this was a fairy land and anyone venturing into it might not come back. Yes, it is very true. Many, who visit the Valley of Flowers that is a heaven with a plethora flowers in variegated hues and shapes, and struck by its charm, would not like to come back (to reality). It is indeed a fairy land!

- B V Prakash India Immemorial • November 2009 • 69

In Brief Shopping

f you are a shop-o-holic, well, Goa is a great place to indulge! The mini state has been planned with the tourist in mind and besides the regular markets all over the city, there are also flea markets held on fixed days in various parts of the little state. If you are coming into Goa via Panjim which is the capital of the state, the Municipal market is a great place to visit. Why? Well, the market really gives one the flavour of the state and in Goa, the Municipal market has a large area devoted to fresh fish. And the fish is so fresh here that they are almost always still alive! Trawlers bring in fresh fish which are bought by the fisherman in lots. Then in the market, most of the ‘stalls’ are ‘manned’ by women! Goa is famous for its fisherwomen, who have been made a legend by Bollywood movies. They dress in sarees pulled up through their legs and sit on

low stools with large baskets chewing betel-nut and cracking bawdy jokes. Most of them are very loud and don’t ever believe you can get a good bargain off them! They are well aware of the price commanded by prawns and lobsters at five star hotels, so get set to pay the price if that is what you want. Crabs from the creeks still snapping and racing around can be had if a crab curry is on your menu. The fisherwoman will ‘fix’ his snapping claw with a stick of wood so you can carry it home safely to cook. Since plastic is banned, I will never forget the experience of buying prawns, which were given to me in a sheet of newspaper. I did not have a bag, so carried it to the car in the sheet. In a few minutes, the prawns had fallen all over the pavement through the softened paper, and were wasted. So, the moral of the story is – ‘Always carry your own cloth bag in Goa!’

It’s all about

haggling... Shopping in Goa can be a fun experience. While the various flea markets in the tiny state demand your bargaining skills to be at their best, everything from fresh sea food and authentic Goan desserts to red chillies, sausages, toddy vinegar and cashewnuts are up for grabs.

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Shopping Goa is famous for its fisherwomen, who have been made a legend by Bollywood movies. They dress in sarees pulled up through their legs and sit on low stools with large baskets chewing betel-nut and cracking bawdy jokes. Most of them are very loud and don’t ever believe you can get a good bargain off them!

A number of Kashmiri’s and Tibetan craftsmen have set up shop all over the markets and beaches in Goa. All along the pathways to the main beaches like Baga and Calangute, little shacks have sprung up which sell the art and craft of Kashmir and Tibet. The shop keepers seem to do roaring business, yet their prices are steeper than what one pays in other cities. Presumably, that’s to cater to foreign tourists with their Euros, Pounds and Dollars. Uncut, precious and semiprecious stones and silver jewellery displays can give you hours of shopping pleasure. If you are not particular about cuts and shapes, there are heaps of shacks selling comfy shorts and beach wear which you won’t see anywhere else in the country. It’s a fascinating experience to go from shop to shop checking out what each one has 72 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

to offer. I have dresses which look like export rejects, which have kept their colour and their shape, despite numerous washes for years. If you decide to go for the weekly Mapusa Market, then carry lots of shopping bags with you and set out early. Mapusa on a Thursday has all the local produce of the surrounding villages out on sale. From red chillies to fresh Goa sausages, fresh toddy vinegar to ripe Cashew fruit. Everything is on sale on plastic mats put out on sizzling hot pavements. You must carry home white onions woven into a creative string or even pods of garlic, strung up to hang in your kitchen. The only other place I have seen this is in Spain and Portugal. Obviously, this is a legacy left from the days of the Portuguese in India.

However, I prefer buying my Goa sausages from the shops in the square as those are cured and will remain for at least a month before consumption. Cashew nuts are also a must-buy and one can get three varieties- roasted with skin, un-roasted minus skin, and the divine roasted and salted ones. Those are an indulgence worth trying, as they are fresh and delicious to eat. In Goa, one can also get a variety of traditional sweets. A traditional rich Goan dessert called Bebinca is a must-buy. It can be purchased in slabs which are packed and available in the same shops as the sausages. Cocada a sweet made from tender coconut, Dodol, made with Goan rice and jaggery, Bolhinos which could also be called coconut cookies, Pinaca which

are rice, jaggery and coconut ladoos- all can be bought in sweet meat stores to carry home. And if you are lucky, try Allebelle which are tender coconut and jaggery filled pancakes made by enterprising housewives. They are available on market days. In the Mapusa market, one can find shops selling traditional gold jewellery as well. Look for traditional designs which are a fusion of Portuguese and Indian designs. You can even buy pretty coral pendants and rings carved in the shape of delicate roses which I have not seen in jewellery shops in other parts of India. After you have shopped, slake your thirst in any of the little ice-cream bars that sell Falooda. You will get the genuine stuff in the little juice bars in the market. If Falooda is not your choice, go for fresh lime marble soda. The pop of the marble into the dark green bottle is still around in today’s fancy world, only in Goa. No shopping in Goa is complete without a trip to the Anjuna Flea Market. During the Wednesday flea market, people come from beaches all over Goa to sell things they don’t want any more. I recollect my husband buying a fabulous twelve-stringed guitar off a hippie who was strapped for funds, for a very good price. There is always a large selection of

items for sale, and the place has a fascinating atmosphere in its setting amid the palm trees and next to the sea. However, this is the place where pockets are routinely picked and rogues are out to gouge you with prices which might not be right. Be prepared to haggle and if you are cheated, remember, you will never find your seller ever again! Shopping in Goa can be a memorable experience. Goan markets are true representatives

of the cosmopolitan culture of Goa. Just let your hair down and enjoy the experience. I assure you, you will go home happy with your purchases wherever you might have made them. Places to visit: Baga, Calangute and Candolim beach shacks found along the paths to the sea shore. Panjim municipal market and Mapusa market for fresh fish and veggies.

Marianne de Nazareth

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 73

Culture Curry

Dance as an

expression The multi-cultural and multi-ethnic hue of India finds expression in its folk dances. Almost all the regions of the country have their specific folk music and dance, which prove to be a wonderful way of expression of their community and its traditions.

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of joy

he culture of India is rich and varied and Indian folk dances are an integral part of our social environment. These dances are generally shaped by the influences of a particular period and environment. They are creative expressions with age-old traditions, portraying some expression of life and meaning. Each region of the country has a unique culture, which is also prominently visible in its various art forms. Almost all the regions of the country have their specific folk music and dance, which proves to be a wonderful way of expression of their community and its traditions. Though these folk dances are not as complex as the classical dance forms, they are very beautiful, because of the essence of rawness in them. There are folk dances for every occasion and every event like the arrival of a new season, a particular festival, the birth of a child or even a wedding. These dances are also considered to be auspicious by many of the tribal communities in the country. Many folk dances are dedicated to the presiding deity of the specific community. Indian folk dances are full of energy and vitality and are performed to express joy. Being simple in steps and movement, the folk dances burst with verve and vitality. Each form of these dances has a specific rhythm and movements attached to it. The most interesting part of a folk dance is the attire required for its performance. The costumes worn by folk dancers are mostly flamboyant and colourful in nature, with extensive jewelry, embellishments and designs.

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Culture Curry maize, in different fields, by turns. Its name has been derived from the terms ‘hurka’, the drum which constitutes the only musical accompaniment to the dance, and ‘baul’, the song. The singer narrates the story of battles and heroic deeds, while the dancers enter from two opposite sides and enact the stories in a series of crisp movements. The farmers form two rows and move backwards, in unison, while responding to the tunes of the song and the rhythm of the dancers. Chholiya: A famous dance of Kumaon region, Chholiya is mainly performed during marriages. As the groom’s procession proceeds to the bride’s house, male dancers, armed with swords and shields, dance spiritedly.

While some folk dances are performed separately by men and women, others have men and women dancing together. Mostly, dancers themselves sing and are accompanied by artists with instruments. While each region of India has a specific form of folk dance, it would not be an exaggeration to say that all forms of folk dances are surely a treat to the senses. Some famous folk dances of North India are the Dumhal dance of Jammu & Kashmir, Hikat and Namagen of Himachal Pradesh, Hurka Baul of Uttar Pradesh, Chholiya of Kumaon region, Bhangra and Gidha of Punjab, and Dhamyal or Duph of Haryana. Dumhal: Dumhal, the traditional folk dance of Jammu and Kashmir, is a devotional dance form, which is performed on special occasions by the men of Kashmir’s Wattal tribe to invoke divine blessings. According to Gowhar Arif, a Dumhal performer, “This dance form is being performed since centuries. It is generally performed on special occasions and people enjoy this dance immensely.” The performers wear long colourful robes and tall conical caps studded with beads and shells. The dance party moves in a procession carrying a banner in a very ceremonial fashion. Traditionally, people invited professional performers to exhibit Dumhal to seek divine blessings. “Dumhal was staged at times of drought or when somebody fell ill. Childless couples invited the performers to stage the Dumhal dance and sought the blessings of God. It is believed that wishes expressed to God through this dance get fulfilled,” added Salim Ghouse, another Dumhal performer. According to a popular legend about the history of Dumhal, the custom of Dumhal was started by Shah Sukar Salani, a disciple of Sufi saint Baba Nasim-U-Din-Gazi. Salani had told the saint that he would beat a drum and perform Dumhal to remember him when he has left the worldly abode.

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Dumhal has been in vogue for the past 1,400 years in Kashmir and this folk dance is fast becoming extinct, as most youngsters tend to neglect it. Dumhal dance is accompanied by songs which the performers themselves sing. It is supported by drums. The musical accompaniment comprises a drum and the vocal singing of the participants. Dumhal is performed on set occasions and at set locations. Hikat: Hikat, performed by the women of Himachal Pradesh, comes across as a modification of a game played by children. Forming pairs, the participants extend their arms to the front, gripping each other’s wrists. With their body inclined back, they go round and round at the same spot. Namagen: Namagen is another folk dance that is specific to the state of Himachal Pradesh. It mainly celebrates the autumnal hue in the month of September. Hurka Baul: Hurka Baul is form of folk dance performed during the cultivation of paddy and

Bhangra: One of the most popular dances of North India, performed during the festival of Baisakhi, is the Bhangra. Among the most virile and captivating dances of India, it is undertaken by men and includes tricks and acrobatic feats. The drummer, usually in the centre of the circle, is surrounded by men dressed in lungis and turbans. Gidha: This folk dance is performed by the women folk of Punjab where a woman or a pair of women dances at a time, while the others surround them and clap in rhythm. The dance is performed mainly during the festival of Teeyan, to welcome the rains. Dhamyal: This folk dance of Haryana is also known as Duph and is performed by both men and women. The Duph, after which the dance form is named, is a circular drum, played nimbly by the male dancers, as they dance. Whatever is the form of folk dance, whichever is the place of its origin, Indian folk dance comes across as a reflection of deep seated beliefs and traditions of a particular culture. These dances are not only the exclusive art of a particular community, but also an asset of India’s cultural heritage.

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See to believe! T

he Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve in Maharashta was in the news recently for all the wrong reasons â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for the disappearance of tigers. Besides tigers, the forest is home to leopards, sloth bears, nilgai, bison, sambar, barking deer, spotted deer, wild boar, wild dog, mongoose and langur. It is also home to some 280 species of birds, both migratory and resident. Spotted Dove, Paradise Flycatcher, Open Billed Stork, Shikra, Forest Owl, Lapwing, Honey Buzzard and many more winged beauties. The sanctuary, spread over 625.40 sq km, gets its name from the local 78 â&#x20AC;˘ November 2009 â&#x20AC;˘ India Immemorial

tribal God Taru and the Andhari River which flows through it. An interpretation centre, outside the reserve gates, is useful to visit for information before entering the sanctuary. The forest guides who take people on safaris inside the reserve are impressive with their knowledge of the birds and the jungle. They are generally trained from among the local Madia Gond tribals.

The sanctuary is rich in Mahua and Ain trees (the latter with bark distinctly like crocodile skin). Also found are numerous pillars put up by the Gond kings, guiding

travellers in earlier days.

Very close to this sanctuary is Anandwan, home to Baba Murlidhar Devdas Amte, a fearless man with the courage to stand up for the people whom society shunned. Baba Amte gave up a lucrative profession and changed his own lifestyle in order to begin a new life with the leprosy-affected, and later, with other handicapped communities as well. He not only treated the lepers but also rehabilitated them with a new meaningful life of dignity, thanks to the various vocations they could train for and pursue. Anandwan, the commune

Wildlife

A visit to Tadoba and its surroundings serves as an eye opener to the vibrancy of India, complete with rich flora and fauna, ancient temples, et al. he founded more than 50 years ago, is today a thriving institution, even though he is no more. Hospitals and schools have also come up at other neighbouring places, serving the Madia Gond tribals too, apart from the handicapped. Other interesting places to visit in the east of Chandrapur include Somnath, with its pristine little waterfall, and Markanda. The latter is a set of hoary temples, 24 in all, on the banks of the Wainganga River. Named after Sage Markandeya, who is said to have worshiped a shivalinga here, it is built in the style of the Khajuraho temples. Shivalingas of various kinds lie scattered among the ruins

of sculpted stone, a delight for art and history lovers. In complete contrast, Chandrapur itself is an industrial town, with a super thermal power plant, as well as countless conventional and open shaft mines. The effect is there for all to see â&#x20AC;&#x201D; decreased tree cover, high temperature, soot-filled roads around the mining spots and mountains of dug up earth completing the desolate look. Yet this town of high pollution levels offers some wonderful opportunities in its surroundings, to explore places of natural beauty, wildlife, historical and artistic value, as well as a heroic example of human endeavour.

Travel Tips How to Reach: Tadoba is about 900 km from Mumbai. It is connected to Wardha and Nagpur by the Sevagram Express and to Chandrapur by the CST-Ballarshah Passenger Express. Chennai and Bangalore are also well connected to Chandrapur, the latter being on the DelhiChennai line. Best time to visit: February - May Park Timings: 6 am - 11 am and 3 pm - 7 pm The park is closed on Tuesdays. India Immemorial â&#x20AC;˘ November 2009 â&#x20AC;˘ 79

Hospitality

nown as the Queen of the Arabian Sea, Kochi has a multilayered colonial history, relaxing ayurvedic spas, colourful Kathakali dance troupes, stately rajah palaces and a laidback way of life. No wonder, it is known as God’s Own Country. A welcome change from India’s typical frenzy, Kochi has been a backpackers’ retreat for long. Till about ten years ago, it was known by its colonial name – Cochin. However, Kochi is growing up fast and how.

Chinese, Arabs, Portuguese, Dutch and British have serially dominated this port on the Malabar Coast, exporting tea and spices, and importing their own architecture, religion and cuisine. These influences are still represented, particularly in Fort Cochin, the historic district — from Chinese fishing nets to Dutch houses, Portuguese churches and English trading company buildings. And in nearby Mattancheri, there is a Jewish presence that locals date back to AD 72, just after the destruction of the Second Temple of Jerusalem. The best way to get a sense of Kochi’s sprawling peninsula-andislands geography is to take a boat tour. According to sources, 45 per cent of Kochi’s population is Christian. In 1503, Portuguese settlers built the oldest European church in India there, St Francis, which briefly held the explorer Vasco da Gama’s remains. With the number of foreign tourists growing, Kochi is geared to welcome them all. Of the many hotels that have sprung up here, the most notable one is the Koder House, on the waterfront, and hence just a few steps away from the sea. An imposing red brick mansion that until

recently was the family home of Cochin’s most prominent Jewish family, the Koders. The Koders, merchants who bought the property in 1905, were famous for their Friday night “open house” dinners. The Koder House is steeped in history, and filled with heritage pieces, but with a touch of modern Indian styling that is both comfortable and inviting.

Royalty

by the sea

80 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

Koder House Hotel, the ancestral mansion of the Kochi Koders, has a striking red façade and suites with antique furniture. This imposing mansion in the coastal town of Kochi is royalty personified. As many visitors to the place admit, this place is faultless – it’s just so homely yet splendid at the same time.

overlooking the park provide light and the plush, high, antique bed ensures a fairy-tale night’s sleep.

With just eight two or three-room suites, as if the living quarters of the individual Koder family members have been maintained. Soft furnishings in neutral patterns and textures are charmingly retro without being kitsch. The bathrooms are gigantic, with torrents of hot water. Heavy double doors to deep balconies

The Koder House is famed for its authentic Jewish menu (chicken soup, dumplings) too. At the helm of affairs in the Koder House kitchen is Queenie Hallegua, the daughter of the Koders. A Judaic ambience, with the Star of David, and the candelabra all lit up, makes the setting perfect for a meal. Must-try’s inlude the koubbah

(chicken mince in flour balls cooked in gravy) and the plave (turmeric rice). For red meat lovers, Queenie offers an absolutely delicious beef curry with coriander. Though the main menu is traditional south Indian, beautifully done, with an emphasis on seafood, breakfast includes Western and Eastern dishes. The hotel celebrates its annual food festival during April-May.

Why Cochin? This cosmopolitan south-west Indian port town, on the Arabian Sea, was once home to Moorish, Portuguese, Dutch, Jewish and British settlers, and today has an eclecticism in its history, architecture, cuisine and art redolent of all these cultures. Vasco da Gama was buried here in India’s oldest church, St Francis (1509); the Jewish quarter has a history spanning 17 centuries; and

large Dutch, Portuguese and Moorish buildings dot the already exotic Indian cityscape. Well placed on the Kerala coast, it serves as a travel hub for other places of interest: Alleppey (an hour away) for houseboat journeys on the backwaters; the hilly beauty of the Western Ghats (4 hrs); and the elephant and tiger sanctuaries at Kodanad (2 hrs) and Periyar (5 hrs).

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 81

Cuisine

Khatai Cookies Ingredients • • • • •

Butter chicken Ingredients • 1 kg chicken • To rub on chicken • 1 tsp lime juice • 1 tbsp red chili powder • 1 tsp salt • 1 tsp butter • To marinate • Salt to taste • 2 tbsp ginger paste • 1 tbsp curds • 2 tsp cooking oil • 2 tbsp garlic paste • 1 tsp red chili powder • 1 tsp lime juice • For the gravy • 1 tsp green chilies, chopped. • 100 ml milk cream • 1 tsp salt • 1 tsp red chili powder • 2 tsp sugar • 50 gm butter • 1 tsp garlic paste • 400 gm tomato puree • ½ tsp garam masala • ½ tsp kasoori methi • 1 tsp ginger paste • Crushed cinnamon, cloves, cardamom and pepper corns to taste

Afghan Chicken

Ingredients • • • • • •

1 kg chicken breasts 2 tea cup curds 12 flakes of garlic 3-4 tbsp lime juice ½ tsp pepper powder ½ tsp salt

Method Long, slow marination in yogurt tenderizes, moistens and adds deep flavour to meat, so you end up with skinless grilled chicken that’s

82 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

1 tbsp cardamom powder 3/4 tea cup corn oil 1½ tea cups flour 3 tbsp pista 1 tea cup sugar

Method Method Make incisions with a sharp knife on breast and leg pieces of the chicken. Now, rub it in the above mentioned mixture and leave it aside for half an hour. Hang curds in a muslin cloth for 15-20 minutes and drain out all the water (whey). Mix all the marinating ingredients to the curds left in the muslin cloth. Apply this marinade onto the chicken pieces and refrigerate for 4-5 hrs.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Mix the white flour with sugar and crushed cardamom. Next, add the corn oil and mix well. Make the dough into two inch round balls and put them on a cookie sheet and bake for 15 min, or until they are light brown. Sprinkle finely ground pistachios on top of the cookies while they are still hot.

Put the chicken on to the skewers and cook in a moderately hot tandoor or a preheated oven (200 degrees C or 400 degree F) until almost done. Baste it with butter and cook for another 3 minutes. Remove and keep aside. Heat butter in a pan. Add whole garam masala (crushed pepper corns, cinnamon, cloves and cardamom), let it crackle and then add gingergarlic paste and chopped green chilies. Cook for 2 minutes. Add tomato puree, red chili powder, garam masala powder, salt and one cup of water. Bring it to boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Add sugar and kasoori methi.

Dudhi Halwa

Add cooked Tandoori chicken pieces. Simmer for 5 minutes and then add fresh cream and serve hot.

• • •

as delicious as it is nutritionally correct. Put the salt in a wide, shallow nonreactive bowl with the garlic and mash them together until you have a paste. Add the yogurt, lemon and pepper. Skin the chicken breasts, remove all visible fat and separate the halves. Bend each backwards to break the bones and the pieces will lie flat. Add to the yogurt and see to it that all

Ingredients 8 nos. almonds 4 nos. cardamom 1 tbsp dalda

the surfaces are well-coated. Cover the bowl tightly and refrigerate. Allow to marinate at least overnight, up to a day-and-a-half. Toss them every now and them. To cook, remove breasts from the marinade and wipe it off till only a thin film is left. Grill about 6 inches from the heat for 6 to 8 minutes a side, or until thoroughly cooked. Meat should brown and not char. Serve it hot with soft pita or Arab flatbread and fresh yogurt.

• • • •

Continue the same procedure for the remaining naans. (You can apply 3 to 4 naans inside the walls of a pressure cooker).

1 tsp ajwain 2 tbsp coriander (chopped) 4 tbsp ghee Salt to taste

Method Combine all the ingredients by using enough water and make semi-stiff dough.

Take them out and apply butter before serving.

Knead the dough well and keep it aside for ½ an hour. Knead again. Roll them out into thin rounds. Apply a little ghee and cook them either in a pressure cooker or on a tava. Pressure cooker method

Misi Jaisi Roti

Grease a pressure cooker with oil. Take out the lid from the pressure cooker and heat it upside down.

Ingredients • 2 tea cups besan • 1 tea cup maida • 1 tea cup gehun ka atta • 1 onion (finely chopped) • 2 - 3 green chillies (chopped fine)

• • •

Take each naan, apply a little water on one side and stick the wet side around the inside of the pressure cooker till brown spots appear.

• • •

½ tea cup mawa (khoa) 1 pound pumpkin (ash gourd) ½ tea cup sugar

• •

Method

Sprinkle crushed and blanched almonds and powdered cardamoms and mix well. Serve the halwa when it is cold.

Method Peel and grate the paste.

Aloo ki Puri Ingredients • 2 teacups maida • 2 potatoes (boiled) • 2 pinches pepper powder

Amritsari Bangda Fry

Clean the pumpkin by removing the skin and the seeds. Cut them into pieces and boil them in two tablespoons of water. Cook till it becomes soft and the moisture is absorbed. Add sugar, mawa and dalda, and fry till the mixture leaves the sides of the vessel.

½ tea cup milk 2 pinches saffron 2 tbsp melted ghee ½ tsp salt Ghee for deep frying potatoes and make a fine

Mix the flour, pepper, ghee and salt well. Put the saffron in the milk and mix with the flour. You can also put a little saffron colour in the milk. Knead the dough well and keep it aside for an hour. Roll them into small puris and deep fry them in hot ghee till they puff up.

Ingredients

Method

• • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Cut the fish into darns with the centre bone Marinate fish in lemon juice and salt for 1 hour Drain the extra moisture on absorbent paper or cloth after marinating time to make the fish dry.

1 kg mackerels For the first marinade 4 nos. fresh lime (extract juice) Salt to taste For the second marinade 40 gm ginger garlic paste 2 tsp ajwain 1 tbsp red chili paste 100 gm flour (gram/ chana) 1 tsp pepper powder 100 ml cooking oil 1.5 tsp chaat masala 1 pinch food colour Cooking oil

Make a paste of the remaining spices and ingredients and beat it to make it smooth. Marinate it again for 2 hours. Deep-fry the fish in oil till crisp. Serve hot, garnished with onion slices and lemon.

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 83

The goodness of Amla is a potent gift of Mother Nature to mankind. It forms an indispensable part of ayurveda and unani medicines.

mla is a wonder herb and one of the precious gifts of nature to humans. Humanity has utilised its benefits for decades, and it forms an indispensable part of ayurvedic and unani medicines. Amla or gooseberry has many nutritious benefits. Amla is also known as “Divya” and “Amrut”. Amla is, in fact, a medium-sized deciduous tree which can be successfully grown in variable agro climatic and soil conditions. It can tolerate climates as high as 45 degree Celsius and freezing temperatures too. Its natural habitat is

amla

Burma in the east to Afghanistan in the west.

Though every part of the tree possesses therapeutic potentials, it is the fruit which constitutes the main drug. This tiny fruit is unusual as it contains a gamut of tastes, except the salty taste. With sourness as the foremost taste, it is sweet, astringent, bitter and pungent too.

The fresh fruit contains more than 80% of water besides protein, carbohydrates, fibre, minerals and vitamins Minerals and vitamins mainly include calcium, phosphorus,

Nutritional information Amla (100 gm) Energy Carbohydrates Protein Vitamin C Calcium Fat

84 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

352Kcal 87gm 0.49gm 540mg 0.21mg 0.09gm

iron, carotene, Vitamin C and B complex. It also contains gallic acid, which is a potent polyphenol. The most potent natural source of Vitamin C, amla has as much Vitamin C as two oranges. Vitamin C, when taken in the form of supplements, is not always easily absorbed. But when you eat an amla berry, the Vitamin C present is easily assimilated by body. What makes amla even more extraordinary is that unlike many other natural sources, the Vitamin C content in amla does not diminish with cooking. It was used successfully in the treatment of scurvy during the Hissar (Haryana) famine of 1939-40. Vitamin C is an excellent anti-oxidant and as amla is rich in Vitamin C, it has strong antioxidant properties and helps combat free radicals. Free radicals are unstable ions in the body, responsible for ageing and cell degeneration. Amla stabilises these free radicals and is believed to be the most powerful rejuvenating agent known to man. Just like most berries, it is low in sugar and has high fibre content, making it an ideal daily fruit for almost anyone. However, if you have a heart condition, you may want to check with your doctor before taking amla regularly as amla stimulates the heart. Amla is proven to be beneficial to people suffering from blood pressure as well. The

Traditional Health Practices

Benefits of amla • Amla is one of the best anti-inflammatory herbs. It prevents aging and promotes longevity. • It is very useful in skin diseases as it inhibits pitta and thus helps in getting relief from all skin disorders caused by pitta dominance. Regular intake of amla promotes glow on skin and delays wrinkles or loosening of skin. • It improves the texture of hair. • It also prevents premature greying and dandruff. • It is very useful in improving eyesight. It also counters diseases like reddening, itching and watering of eyes. • Amla is very useful in controlling blood sugar level. • It also helps maintain the functioning of liver. • Amla cleanses the mouth and strengthens the teeth. • It balances stomach acids because it improves digestion but does not heat the body. • It nourishes the brain and mental functioning. • Amla has powerful anti-oxidants which protect the body from harmful free radicals that can increase the risk of a wide range of serious diseases, including cancer. Vitamin C in Amla helps in dilating the blood vessels, thereby reducing blood pressure. Amla is a fruit that enhances food absorption and thus helps you get the most out of the food you eat. It helps the body digest food better and assimilate minerals like iron. It is also gentler on the entire system. Regular intake of amla almost always results in a stronger, healthier digestive system and in improved overall immunity. Amla also helps boost protein metabolism, so people who have a tendency to gain weight easily benefit greatly from the regular intake of amla as the tiny fruit enhances metabolism. Amla helps strengthen the liver, and rid the body of toxins accumulated due to the regular use of pain killers, antibiotics, alcohol, and the like. It thus helps purify and clean the blood. This is why amla is good for the skin, and if taken in combination with neem, it can help clear pimples that are caused due to impure blood. In addition to skin, amla is also great for hair. It nourishes hair roots and is believed to prevent premature greying. Thus, one often sees amla-based shampoos and oils. In addition, amla helps lower cholesterol, enhance vision, and strengthen the lungs and the respiratory system. It also strengthens the body’s central nervous system. It is a gentle laxative and helps cure constipation.

Reap the benefits of amla • To stabilise blood cholesterol level: Prepare a powdered mixture of dry amla and sugar candy. Mix one teaspoonful of this mixture in a glass of water and consume it daily on an empty stomach. This decoction helps in stabilising blood cholesterol level. • If diabetic: Mix equal quantities of amla, jamun and bitter gourd powder. A teaspoonful of this mixture once or twice a day is effective in checking diabetes. • If suffering from acidity: Simply take one gram of amla powder with a little sugar in milk or water twice a day. • To counter premature greying: Amla powder soaked in water and left in an iron utensil is a 3-in-1 preparation - shampoo, conditioner and hair dye. Regular application of this mixture for a few hours at a time is ideal.

Recommended dosage of amla • • • • •

Infants (aged below 1 year) Children (1 to 14 years) Adolescents (15 to 18 years) Men (over 18 years) Women (over 18 years)

: : : : :

30 to 35 mg 40 to 50 mg 65 to 75 mg 90 mg 75 mg

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 85

Taste of India Photos by Mayank Saxena/WFS

There can be a pitcher of Tang or some fancy confectionery thrown in but the layout of ‘sehri’ and ‘iftar’ (meals taken before and to break the fast, respectively) has been much the same over the years.

A whiff of

Avadhi cuisine

The onslaught of ready-to-eat goodies on the shelves of supermarkets notwithstanding, Lucknow, the city of Nawabs, has retained the flavours of the past, without losing the whiff of traditional aromas.

n its long journey from flea markets to swanky malls, Lucknow - the city of Nawabs and the state capital of Uttar Pradesh - has retained the flavours of the past even as it welcomes the modern spread. Which means that Ramzan, the Muslim month of fasting, has more colour added, without losing the whiff of traditional aromas. There weren’t as many working women till even about seven years back as there are today, so the tedious but loving care with which the womenfolk made every ‘roza’ (fast) worth cherishing is somewhat diluted. Yet, there has been no major digression from tradition. “There can be a pitcher of Tang or some fancy confectionery thrown in but the layout of ‘sehri’ and ‘iftar’ (meals taken before and to break the fast, respectively) is much the same

86 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

over the years,” says Tamanna Khan, a school teacher. “Phulki (fritters made of gram flour, onions), chana (chickpea), fruit chaat (spicy mix of cut fruit), and so on remain the staple menu. And yes, Rooh Afza sherbet is still everyone’s toast.” Eid-ul-Fitr is a festival to all but the fasting devout, who see Ramzan as a 30-day festival and Eid as only a finale. Their joy at Eid is tinged with a sadness to bid it ‘alvida’ (adieu). The menfolk remain busy as usual, taking a break from work and all things worldly only to pray and offer ‘tarawih’ in the evenings, a prayer in which the Imam recites the holy Qur’an and everyone files in to listen and pay obeisance. For women, on the other hand, the break from everyday kitchen chores transforms into a myriad activities, ranging from cooking the

festive specialties to stitching, embroidering, decking up the home and rustling up anything that could enhance the celebratory mood. In an era bygone, resplendent with customs born in the times of the Nawabs of Awadh, grandeur marked every tradition. Kitchens were redolent with the aromas of exotic delicacies comprising the rarest of ingredients from saffron and musk to regulars like lentils and melon seeds. “A dish like ‘muzaafar’ may find neither makers nor takers in the present day and age,” says Shabahat Husain of Hotel Taj Residency, Lucknow. The dish he mentions was sweet ‘sewain’ (vermicelli) that required eight times the sugar than is used in making a ‘sewain’ dish in the present day. Obviously, nobody would spare such time, effort and expense on making

On a shopping spree: For women, Ramzan is the time they take a break from everyday kitchen chores and enage in myriad activities like buying traditional zardozi clothes, colourful bangles, trinkets, and so on.

it and few would put health to peril partaking of it. “It is the age of the readymade and when wholesome goodies are stacked on the shelves in a store near you, you are bound to have second thoughts before making elaborate preparations at home,” says Khadija Fatima, a freelance designer of clothes and upholstery. “Besides, the family size is not even half of what it used to be earlier. For four to five members, two of them being kids, it is not that much fun whipping up delicious delights that just might end up in the fridge or go waste,” she adds. Talking about readymade stuff, couture too doesn’t call for the flurry of activities like in days gone by. “I could spend weeks designing my Eid ‘joda’ (set of clothes), sourcing material like laces, buttons and frills, giving instructions to the tailor and then waiting for him to make it to order. And then, I find something on the

show window of a store, something that costs marginally more but is smarter, more practical and better cut out,” says Shazia Fatima, 29, who cut down the time and money she spent on tailor-made clothes a few Eid moons back. Hailing from a family of Talukdars (landlords) of Barabanki, Rumi Wilayet, 56, has a twinkle in her eyes as she recalls the good old days. “We had a ‘naa’un’ (female counterpart of ‘nai’, the barber, who was more into odd jobs like dyeing, starching and stitching clothes) to dye and give wrinkles to the ‘dupatta’ (long scarf). My mother was such a stickler for light hues she would scold the ‘naa’un’ if she dyed it a shade darker. And my father would tease her with a ‘sher’ (couplet) by Mirza Ghalib: ‘Dosh-e-nazuk par na thehra yun dupatta bojh se / Kal jo rangne mein zara gehra gulaabi ho gaya’ (The delicate shoulder couldn’t bear the weight of the scarf, for the pink of the dye was a tad too deep!). Where are those fabrics we cut our ‘lehengas’ and ‘ghararas’ out of... the ‘kimkhwab’, the ‘atalas’!” she rues, her nostalgia leading her

further down to a flavour-filled nook of the memory lane. “We hardly get to taste items like ‘khajoori’ in ‘sehri’ or ‘iftar’. It was our indigenous variety of biscuit and it was so good to taste,” says Rumi, recalling other savoury delights and the unforgettable delicacies prepared for the Ramzan dinners. “There was ‘qaliya’, a meat dish cooked with potatoes, and there was ‘saundha gosht’ in which all preparations were sealed in a pot and left to simmer for hours only to be bhuno-ed (roasted) and seasoned with herbs before serving.” There is the mistaken conclusion that all food related to Ramzan is made of meat. “We had an exhaustive menu of vegetarian specialties, few of which we get to taste or even cook in these rushed times. Have you tasted ‘Usaiyan’ - fritters made of lentils? Or ‘Khandvi’, or ‘Rikauchhe’, which are made of besan (gram flour) and lentils? They were made especially on Shab-e-Bara’at (the night of blessings, deliverance), which precedes Ramzan and set the mood for the days of fasting.” Those who do not blame time constraints cite rising prices as the dampener of the festive spirit. “We get only half the orders we used to get until five years ago,” laments Mohammad Faisal, a ‘zardozi’ embroidery outfit owner. Had it not been for his move of diversifying and outsourcing for designers and shop owners and being innovative by way of embroidering upholstery, it would have been hard for him and his ilk to sustain themselves. Lucknow has emerged out of its time warp and is in step as much with the big towns as it can. But the muezzin’s ‘azaan’ (prayer) call from every turn of the street and a whiff of ‘sehri/iftar’ savouries is a reassurance that all is not ravaged by the onslaught of time.

Ramzan and Eid are times of fasting and feasting.

- Danish Ahmed

Women’s Feature Service India Immemorial • November 2009 • 87

Incredible India

Magnet Magic Defy gravity at the Magnetic Hill in Ladakh

an anyone ever imagine the movement of a vehicle up a steep mountain, with its ignition off? Sounds quite unbelievable! Well, this magnet magic can be experienced while you are travelling to LehLadakh. And we can say, amid all the Himalayan and colonial wonders, there’s one more wonder coming your way – the Magnetic Hill. The hill, located close to Leh, is known for its wonderful magnetic properties. Once here, you can see for yourself vehicles moving up at a speed of 20 km/ hour with the engines off.

88 • November 2009 • India Immemorial

Location To reach the Magnetic Hill, Ladakh, you need to take the Leh-Kargil-Baltic National Highway. The hill lies at a distance of 30 km from the town of Leh, at an elevation of around 14,000 feet above sea level. To the eastern side of the hill flows the Sindhu River, originating in Tibet.

Bill board The local administration has also put up a bill board to help tourists recognise the Magnetic

Hill. The board clearly states the whole phenomenon. So you can also enjoy a firsthand experience as you reach the hill. Place your vehicle on a specific spot on the road with its engines off and you will soon notice the vehicle moving up at a speed of 20 km/hour. You will have the same results over and again as you redo the exercise.

Impact on helicopters & aircrafts Not only vehicles, even helicopters and aircrafts feel the same magnetic impact. Locals and the

‘Why’ & ‘how’ of the Magnetic Hill

A gravity hill, also known as a magnetic hill (and sometimes a mystery hill or a gravity road), is a place where the layout of the surrounding land produces the optical illusion that a very slight downhill slope appears to be an uphill slope. Thus, a car left out of gear will appear to be rolling uphill. There are hundreds of gravity hill locations around the world. The slope of gravity hills is an optical illusion, although tour guides may claim natural or even supernatural forces are at work. The most important factor contributing to the illusion is a completely or mostly obstructed horizon; without a horizon, judging the slope of a surface is difficult as a reliable reference is missing.

Objects one would normally assume to be more-or-less perpendicular to the ground (such as trees) may actually be leaning, offsetting the visual reference. The illusion is similar to the well-known Ames room, in which balls can also appear to roll against gravity. Websites devoted to the paranormal also have names like ‘Haunted Hill’, ‘Magnetic Hill’, or ‘Anti-gravity Hill’, reflecting attribution of the properties of the area to the supernatural or magnetism. While humans also have a sense of balance to determine the inclination of the ground, visual cues can override this sense, especially if the inclination is shallow.

Indo-Tibetan Border Police (ITBP) personnel claim that the helicopters and aircrafts that pass through the area have to fly at a greater speed to avoid the magnetic impact of the hill. And if the aircraft comes within the radius of the Magnetic Hill, it starts to jerk.

region here is truly worth exploring.

Colourful hills & mountains

Other attractions

Another attraction around the place is the Gurudwara Patthar Sahib, the auspicious place where Guru Gobind Singh, the 10th guru of the Sikhs, had spent time meditating in the 17th century. Locals, army personnel and tourists can be seen here often. However, not many Sikhs visit the place, the reason perhaps being its remote location.

While you are in the Himalayan region, you will also like seeing hills and mountains. Here, the hills are in different colours. Some are white and snow-laden, some are black or gray in colour while there are some that are green, red or orange in colour.

Apart from the Magnetic Hill, you can also enjoy seeing a few other places that lie at a close distance from the hill. The Himalayan

According to the drivers here, Indian Air Force pilots always steer clear of the Magnetic Hill.

India Immemorial • November 2009 • 89

Travelogue

Celebrating 90 â&#x20AC;˘ November 2009 â&#x20AC;˘ India Immemorial

snow

The valleys of Kullu and Manali, with their invigorating air, spectacular scenery, lush surroundings, wooded hills, manicured gardens, fruit-laden orchards and sparkling streams, are exciting places to visit.

bout 40 km from Kullu, towards the northern end of the bewitching Silver Valley is Manali, the enchanting hill station of Himachal Pradesh. Around Manali, the scent of flowers fills the air and on either side of the road are a multitude of wild trees. Every turn of the road brings into sight high hills, with River Beas flowing below as a constant companion. The sight of the town itself is pleasant with lush green grass and tall deodar trees all around the place. Look around and all one can see are spectacular snow capped mountain peaks, crystal clear waters of River Beas, pine trees and fruit orchards laden with juicy apples and apricots. The Solang Valley, situated between Manali and Kothi, is around 13 km from Manali and offers splendid views of glaciers and snow-capped mountain peaks. Solang has good skiing slopes and commands a majestic view of the Winter Sports Festival organised by the Mountaineering Institute. The Department of Mountaineering and Allied Sports offers sufficient lodging and boarding arrangements and trekking equipment can be hired from here. This institute also organises short-term and advanced training courses in hiking, trekking and mountaineering.

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Travelogue bank of Beas River. It is renowned for its hot water springs. Near the kund is a pyramidal stone temple dedicated to sage Vashista. Nehru Kund and Beas Kund from where Beas River originates are a must-visit too. Jagatsukh has remained the ancient capital of Kullu for about ten generations. This captivating place is popular for its ancient Shiva Temple built in Shikhara style and Devi Sharavali temple. Paragliding, fishing, river rafting, horse riding, mountaineering and skiing are the favourite sports in Manali. Kullu is another dazzling location near Manali which should not be skipped at any cost. Kullu spreads out its charm on the banks of Beas River at 1,219 meters of height. This sprawling valley is considered as one of the loveliest in the Himalayan belt. It was once known as Kulanthpitha - the end of the habitable world.

Hadimba temple Around 51 km from Manali is the Rohtang Pass, better known as the land of fairy tales and fantasies. This captivating locale is at an altitude of 4111.70 meters on the Keylong Highway. The Pass is truly breathtaking with a wide spread panorama of mountain scenery and exhilarating air. It is a gateway to the spellbinding Lahaul and Spiti Valleys. Located closeby, just a few kilometers away from this Pass is the Sonapani Glacier. The twin peaks of Gaypan are located near this glacier. Owing to continuous snowfall, Rohtang Pass is open to people for only four months a year, from June to October, when the snow melts. After Rohtang Pass, it is time to move to the beauty of Lahaul and Spiti Valleys. Lahaul, situated around 115 km away from Manali at an altitude of 3,980 meters, is a beautiful location and an entry point to LahaulSpiti district. Lahaul is marked by a central mass of almost uniformly high mountains and massive glaciers. The two rivers, Chandra and Bhaga, flow through these narrow valleys. This lovely locale is best enjoyed in summer when the valleys are cool and pleasant with green grass, alpine flowers and an abundance of crops. Since there is no monsoon in Lahaul Valley, mountaineers and trekkers enjoy a long season of Himalayan expedition. Lahaul houses many gompas and temples. The many monasteries in the place are famous for their paintings, ancient weapons, musical instruments, large statues of Lord Buddha and the Bodhisatvas. If monasteries are interesting, so are the temples in the district. One among these many temples is undoubtedly the Dhoongri Temple, renowned both historically and archaeologically. Dedicated to Goddess Hadimba or Hirma Devi, the wife of Bhima, the strongest Pandava, it was built in 1553 by Maharaja Bahadur Singh and enshrines the 92 â&#x20AC;˘ November 2009 â&#x20AC;˘ India Immemorial

footprints of Goddess Hadimba. The temple has a four-tiered, pagoda-shaped roof and the door is carved with figures and symbols. A colourful festival is held here in the month of May every year. Just near the Hadimba temple flows the Manalsu River that joins River Beas. The original village of Manali, that houses the ancient temple of sage Manu, is believed to have been named after Manu, who is said to have dwelt here. Vashisht Kund and Jagatsukh are spots worth visiting in this alluring town. Vashisht is a little village situated on the left

Spring is the season to be in Kullu, when the slopes are covered with beautiful wild flowers and apricot and plum trees amidst the fields. Kullu, known as the land of cultural fairs, festivals and temples, is a colourful town. This captivating town is famous for the celebration of Dasara too. The invigorating air, spectacular scenery, lush surroundings, wooded hills, manicured gardens, fruit-laden orchards, sparkling streams and the magnificence of the cultural background of Kullu and Manali sure make them exciting places to visit.

- Jayanthi S

In Memoriam

In the fleeting world of cinema, there is no actor as multi-talented as Raj Kapoor. While he was many things to many people, there will be endless debates about his exact contribution to the art of cinema. However, nobody can deny the fact that he was the greatest entertainer known to Indian films.

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Raj Kapoor

The Original Showman I

f there’s one actor in the Hindi film industry who can stake a claim to many gifted talents, then it has to be Raj Kapoor. He was an actor, director, producer, editor, studio owner and a music composer, all rolled into one. In fact, Raj Kapoor was one of the most noted yesteryear Bollywood filmmakers and to this day, he is remembered for his all time classics. This multifaceted film personality, however, started his career as an actor and entered the arena of direction only after he had established himself well as a talented actor. In addition to being an actor and a director, he also dabbled in production and gave the industry a number of hit films

that are popular even to this day. One of the most prominent members of the famous Kapoor family of Bollywood, he continues to be held in high esteem by filmmakers across the world. This eldest son of veteran actor Prithviraj Kapoor and Ramsarni Devi, was born as Ranbir Raj Kapoor on 14th December 1924, in Peshawar, which is now in Pakistan. He was the grandson of Dewan Basheswarnath Kapoor and great-grandson of Dewan Keshavmal Kapoor. Raj Kapoor had three younger siblings, two brothers - Shammi Kapoor and Shashi Kapoor, and one sister Urmila Sial.

Raj Kapoor got married to Krishna Malhotra, in a traditional family-arranged wedding, in 1946, when he was hardly 22 years old. Krishna, a distant relative of Raj, was the sister of actors Prem Nath and Rajinder Nath. The couple had a son around a year after their wedding, in 1947, and he was named Randhir Kapoor. They had their second child, a daughter - Ritu Kapoor, the following year. Four years later, in 1952, Rishi Kapoor was born. Raj and Krishna had two more children - daughter Reema Kapoor in 1956 and son Rajiv Kapoor in 1962. Raj Kapoor is rumored to have had a romantic relationship with actress Nargis.

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In Memoriam His journey into the world of films began as a clapper boy, assisting Kidar Sharma. He first faced the camera in 1935, when he was just 11 years old, in the movie Inquilab. Though his appearances before the camera continued for 12 more years, none of them actually made it big in the box office. However, it was in the year 1947 that Raj Kapoor really made it big in the movie Neel Kamal opposite the beautiful and talented Madhubala. Neel Kamal changed his fortune in the film industry for the better, and then there was no looking back. The very next year, he set up his own studio, R K Films. R K Films made Kapoor the youngest film director of his time, as he was only 24 years old then. His debut movie, as a director and

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producer, was Aag, which hit the theatres in 1948. It was his first movie with Nargis, but failed to do well at the box-office. Not the one to be discouraged by failure, the very next year, he again paired with Nargis in Mehboob Khan’s Andaz, which went on to become his first major success as an actor. Among the most notable films of his career are Barsaat (1949), Awaara (1951), Shree 420 (1955), Chori Chori (1956) and Jis Desh Men Ganga Behti Hai (1960). In the year 1960, Raj Kapoor produced, directed and starred in Sangam, the first colour film of his career. This movie was also his last major success as an actor. A couple of years later, he started making Mera Naam Joker, a

Ram Teri Ganga Maili was a total commercial film - a potboiler with the showman’s special touches that made it soar above the average Hindi film. Raj Kapoor was a great believer in team work. He had his own team of writers, Shailendra and Hasrat Jaipuri; his regular singers, Mukesh and Lata Mangeshkar; and his favourite composers Shankar-Jaikishen. RK, as he was fondly known, was generous to the extreme. A very giving and sharing person, his love for food was legendary. He introduced innumerable artistes and all of them were proud to be a part of RK’s stable. Today, RK is remembered as Bollywood’s Orinigal Showman. It is highly doubtful if Bollywood will ever experience anyone like RK again.

Raj Kapoor film festivals perfect launch pad for not only Rishi Kapoor, but also Dimple Kapadia. The rest of 1970’s and early 1980’s saw him delivering many successful films like Satyam Shivam Sundaram (1978), Prem Rog (1982) and Ram Teri Ganga Maili (1985).

film that took almost six years to complete. It was released in 1970, but failed miserably at the box- office. However, in the later years, the movie was regarded as one of the finest films ever made in Bollywood. In 1971, he starred in Kal Aaj Aur Kal as a character actor, which also had Randhir Kapoor, Prithviraj Kapoor and Babita. He started focusing more on producing and directing films. Accordingly, in 1973, he produced and directed Bobby, through which he also launched his second son Rishi Kapoor. The film was a huge success and served as the

The last film of Raj Kapoor, in which he made an appearance, was Vakil Babu (1982). Two years later, he was seen in a cameo appearance in a British made-for-television film Kim. In the later years of his life, Kapoor suffered from asthma. In fact, it was asthmarelated complications that led to his sad demise in 1988. During his last days, he was working on the movie Henna, based on a love story between an Indian boy and a Pakistani girl. His son Randhir Kapoor later completed the movie and released it in 1991. It went on to become a huge box-office hit. Regarded as the ‘Showman of Bollywood,’ Raj Kapoor was the master of the medium. While Aag showcased Raj Kapoor, the idealist,

Held in Netherlands from May 22 to June 1, 2008. Held in Muscat from May 27 to June 10, 2008.

National honours and recognition Raj Kapoor had been conferred with a National Award for cinematography for his contribution to Indian cinema. In 1971, he was honoured with the Padma Bhushan, India’s third highest civilian award from the Government of India. In 1987, he was awarded the Dadasaheb Phalke Award, India’s highest award for cinematic excellence. On January 8, 2001, he was honoured with the Best Director of the Millennium award by Hero Honda-Stardust. In 2002, he was named ‘Showman of the Millennium’ by Star Screen Awards. In 2007, he was conferred with a Special Award by Star Screen Awards. These apart, Raj Kapoor had been nominated for 18 Filmfare awards in all. India Immemorial • November 2009 • 97

In Brief

Luxury on wheels

hree new luxury trains have entered the market, offering the last word on opulence and grandeur. While the pan-India Cox and Kings’ Maharaja Express

boasts of micro-processor controlled climate control and environment-friendly toilets, the Indian Maharaja run by Thomas Cook offers on-board spa and will host their guests at the Fateh Prakash Palace in Udaipur. Not to be left behind, the Royal Rajasthan on Wheels (RROW) plans to add a fitness centre and business centre to their bouquet of products. And the popularity of luxury trains appears to be growing. Foreign tourists, undeterred by the economic slowdown, are shelling out upwards

Himachal to promote

heritage tourism

of $4,200 for a 7-day trip to discover imperial India. According to reliable sources, the Indian Maharaja that launches on November 18 has already received 70% confirmed bookings. Compared to European trains that are priced around $ 1000, Indian ones offer great value for money. While the Palace on Wheels has 80% bookings for the season, Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation officials say that the response to RROW has been good.

compile a list of historical buildings in the hill capital. For this, it has asked the owners of historical buildings to provide lesser known facts about their buildings. “We are requesting the owners of historical buildings to provide us details regarding the history and interesting facts about their building. The inputs provided by the residents would be reviewed and then published in the form of a book,” said tourism director Arun Kumar. He said the book would be an authenticated data on the historical monuments of the erstwhile summer capital of British India. “A large number of buildings - both residential and official - were constructed in Shimla during the British era. While some of them have been demolished, others have been damaged with passage of time. Still a large number of historical landmarks are there and each one of these has some interesting history,” he said.

Himachal Pradesh Chief Minister Prem Kumar Dhumal launched an innovative scheme ‘Har Ghar Kuch Kehta Hai’ or ‘Every House has its own History’ on World Tourism Day to promote heritage tourism. Under the scheme, the state tourism department has decided to

The Queen of Hills, as Shimla was fondly called by the British, has 91 British-era heritage buildings. These include Ellerslie (housing the state secretariat), Vidhan Sabha, Peterhoff (which was completely renovated after being devastated in a fire nearly two decades ago and now serves as the state guest house), United Services Club, Town Hall, Barnes Court (housing Raj Bhavan), Vice Regal Lodge (now houses premier advanced research institution, the Indian Institute of Advanced Studies) and Gordon Castle. For preserving the rich cultural and imperial heritage, the state government has sought special funds from the Asian Development Bank.

Indian ancestry revealed

he largest ever DNA survey of Indian heritage has revealed that the population of India was founded on just two ancient groups that are as genetically distinct from each other as they are from other Asians. The findings of the study, conducted by a group of top international geneticists, have strong implications for health and medicine, and reveal important new information on caste in India. The study shows that most Indian populations are genetic admixtures of two ancient but genetically divergent groups, which each contributed around 40-60 per cent of the DNA to most present-day Indians. One ancestral lineage - genetically

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similar to Middle Eastern, Central Asian and European populations - was higher in upper-caste individuals and speakers of Indo-European languages such as Hindi, the researchers found.

The Indian Genome Variation database, launched in 2003 to fill the gap, has so far studied only 420 DNA-letter differences, called single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs), in 75 genes.

The other lineage was not close to any group outside the Indian subcontinent, and was most common in people indigenous to the Andaman Islands, says the study conducted by a team led by David Reich of the Broad Institute in Cambridge, Massachusetts, and Lalji Singh of the Centre for Cellular and Molecular Biology in Hyderabad, India.

In sharp contrast, the study reported by Nature has probed more than 560,000 SNPs across the genomes of 132 Indian individuals from 25 diverse ethnic and tribal groups dotted all over India.

Although India makes up around onesixth of the world’s population, it has been “sorely under-represented” in genome-wide studies of human genetic variation.

The researchers also found that Indian populations were much more highly subdivided than European populations. Whereas European ancestry is mostly carved up by geography, Indian segregation was driven largely by caste.

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