Carolina Shore, Fall 2017 by NCCOAST

CAROLINA shore

Fall & Winter 2017

EXPLORING COASTAL CAROLINA

FOOD

glorious

FOOD

4426 Arendell St., Morehead City 252.247.3175 www.mcqueensinteriors.com

Dedicated to Quality Service

Locally Owned & Operated • Wholesale Tires • Roadside Service for large Trucks and Tractors • Brakes • Mufflers • 4 Wheel Alignment • CV Axles • 24 Hour Towing

O PE N

YE A R

RO U N D

Days: 252.728.6960 Nights: 252.225.0194 688 Highway 70 East - Otway chadwickstire.com

288 GUTHRIE DRIVE, HARKERS ISLAND, NC

LOCALLY OWNED AND OPERATED BY CHRIS AND KATHYRN CHADWICK

A family friendly RV resort now open. Fish, kayak, and swim right from the dock. A swimming pool, bathhouse, and boat ramp are just a few of the amenities in this gated resort. Waterfront and wooded campsites along with deep water boat slips are available to rent nightly, weekly, monthly, or annually.

252.725.0820 www.harkersislandrvresort.com info@harkersislandrvresort.com 4

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

We care about things that fly!

Bird Stuff

Quality Kites & Windsocks

Kites Unlimited

Everything for the Bird Enthusiast!

Bird Feeders Seeds • Houses Supplies & More

Celebrating over

30 years

Thank you for shopping locally!

Carolina Kite Fest October 28 & 29 - Sands Villa, Atlantic Beach Flags • Banners • Toys • Unique Games • Puzzles & More

Friendly Knowledgeable Service - We’re Here to Help

kitesandbirds.com

Etc.

• Tilley Hats for Men & Women • Sloggers • Wind Chimes • Outdoor Decor

We feature “made in the USA!”

1010 W. Ft. Macon Rd. • Atlantic Station, Atlantic Beach • 252-247-7011 NCCOAST.COM

CAROLINA shore EXPLORING COASTAL CAROLINA

Publisher: Allyson Sproul Director of Operations: Kim LaChance Managing Editor/Layout: Amanda Dagnino (editor@nccoast.com)

Sales Jamie Bailey 252.241.9485 Ashly Willis Graphic Design Morgan Davis, Kyle Dixon, Roze Taitingfong, Billy France Contributors Rasonda Clark, Megan Dohm A RESTAURANT

Production Director: Rudy J. Taitague Mail Center: Skip Hicks Pressman: Allen Henry Folder: Destiny Fulcher Bindery Operator: Rudy D. Taitague Pre-Press: Kyle Dixon Delivery: Ken Rhue

CAROLINA SHORE is published by

www.nccoast.com 201 N. 17th St., Morehead City, NC 28557 | 252.247.7442

ON THE COVER: Oysters from Sandbar Oyster Company will be ready in time for winter oyster roasts. (Megan Dohm photo) Carolina Shore is published twice per year and distributed at high traffic sites in Carteret, Craven, Onslow and Pender counties and is available in its entirety at nccoast.com. Entire contents, maps, advertisements and graphic design elements copyright 2017-2018 NCCOAST. Reproduction is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s consent. Though every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of all advertising and editorial copy contained herein, the publisher may not be held responsible for typographical errors. NCCOAST and its employees, agents or representatives may not be held responsible for any actions or consequences derived as a result of following advice or instructions contained herein. NCCOAST reserves the right to refuse any advertising or editorial content deemed inappropriate, misleading or in violation of the law.

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

AND MORE...

You can always expect fresh, delicious food made in-house daily

www.ruckerjohns.com 3 GREAT LOCATIONS Open daily 11am-10pm Emerald Plantation, Emerald Isle • 252-354-2413 Wilmington • 910-452-1212 Winterville • 252-215-0011

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“ Behind the Water Slide in Emerald Isle.” 203 Boardwalk Dr., Emerald Isle Phone: 252-354-7774

Taste

of the

South Indoor & Outdoor Dining for Lunch and Dinner • Outdoor Bar • Fire Pit • Live Music

252.727.1921

400 Bridges St., Morehead City, NC 28557 Find us on Facebook to stay updated on our current events.

Find our full menu at:

www.floyds1921.com

Floyd’s 1921 Restaurant & Catering

Catering & Special Events

hether you’re planning a wedding, family reunion, corporate event, fundraiser, or a luncheon for you and a few of your closest friends, Floyds 1921 can cater any occasion.

We’ve been active in the local community for years, catering events of every shape and size at the Crystal Coast Civic Center, North Carolina Aquarium, Big Rock, Southern Kingfishers Association, and the Morehead City Seafood Festival, just to name a few. We can create a custom menu for formal sit-down dinners, large buffets, intimate luncheons, and much more.

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Inquire to whether there is required by federal law a property report as to any lot of interest to you. If such a report is required, procure and read it before signing anything. No federal agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of this property. This is not an offering to residents of New York, New Jersey nor other jurisdictions where prohibited. This drawing is for illustrative purposes only. All lot lines, dimensions, vegetation and areas shown are subject to change without notice at the developer’s discretion. Lots subject to prior sale.

LET US CATER YOUR NEXT BUSINESS OR SPECIAL EVENT!

CATERING | ON SITE COOKING EAT IN | DRIVE THRU 1507 LIVE OAK STREET BEAUFORT 252-728-1953 TUES-SAT 11AM-8PM WWW.ROLANDSBARBECUE.COM

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H A N D M A D E

ONE-OF-A-KIND J E W E L R Y

contents fall/winter 2017

16 Winter Warmers

Warm up this winter with a cocktail by the firepit.

20 Bar Basics

Beginning a home bar isn’t as challenging as it sounds with a little planning.

22 Distilling History

Richard and Margaret Chapman share are making their dream a reality with Bogue Sound Distillery.

26 Lady Sings the Blues

Ruth Wyand discusses how she found the blues.

32 Finding Roots

The genealogy library at the Carteret County Museum of History helps visitors find their ancesters.

34 The Friendliest Kitchen

Matt and Mindy Fitzpatrick enjoy success as The Friendly Market continues to grow.

40 The Science of Fishing

An unlikely pair join forces to form a cutting edge company.

Emerald Isle’s newest fine dining establishment embraces a collaborative environment.

48 Three of a Kind

52 Sea to Table

From net to the table, fisherman explore a variety of ways to bring our seafood to the consumer.

62 A Tale of Two Eateries

Blue Moon Bistro owner Kyle Swain comes Full Circle.

72 Sugar & Spice

Martha and Elmo Barnes bring a little spice to their B&B.

62 Ghosts of the Coast

Two locals team up to share the coast’s haunted history.

66 In Season 89 Closing View

International Building Code (IBC) Approved Florida Building Code 2007 (FBC) Approved Texas Department of Insurance (TDI) Approved Miami-Dade (HVHZ) Approved

INVITE US FIRST. WE’RE MAID FOR THIS.

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MOLLY MAID OF THE CRYSTAL COAST

252-393-1058

ENJOY YOUR FRIENDS & FAMILY. (WE’LL MAKE SURE THEY’RE IMPRESSED.)

Th e h ol i d ays can be a h ecti c ti me of th e yea r. We’re here to make th em easi er. Wh eth er i t’s h el pi ng you prepare for hou se guests or cl eani ng up th e mess af ter ward , we’ ll m ake you r h ol i d ays stress-f ree so you can k i ck back , rel ax an d en joy them .

Destination For Fine Art

www.fineartatbaxters.com 323 Pollock Street • New Bern, NC 28560 • Mon-Fri 10-6 Sat 10-5 • 252.634.9002 NCCOAST.COM

DRINK

Winter Warmers As fall gives way to the cooler months the fruity cocktails we looked forward to during summer day trips to the Cape seem to fall to the wayside as we search for something a little more substantive. Instead of finding something refreshing to cool us down, we begin looking for something to warm us up a little - something comforting and soothing. Rich chocolate and coffee liqueurs have long been a go-to for holiday celebrations (and yes, we love them too). But unless your nickname is “The Dude” there is a limit to how many white Russians you can enjoy in one sitting. Whether you’re looking for a signature cocktail for an upcoming holiday party, or you’re simply interested in finding something to curl up with next to the fire, here’s a collection of winter warmers, from toddies to ciders to martinis. We’re sure one will become your new favorite.

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

Warm & Toasty Heated Cape Cod 1 ounce vodka 4 ounces cranberry juice Pour ingredients into a saucepan over low heat. Serve in Irish coffee mugs. Hot Tea Toddy 1 cup Earl Grey tea 1 teaspoon sugar 1 shot Irish cream 1 dash scotch whiskey Cinnamon sticks Brew a cup tea. Add Irish cream and scotch. Add sugar as needed to taste. Garnish with cinnamon sticks. Mulled Wine 1 bottle red wine 1 cup cognac 3/4 cup sugar 2 cinnamon sticks 3 whole cloves 1 tsp grated nutmeg 1 tsp bean 1 star anise Lemon and Orange slices Combine ingredients in a sauce pan and simmer for 25 minutes. Let it rest overnight in the refrigerator. Strain and serve warm. Garnish with cinnamon stick. Hot Gin Punch 1 lemon, juice and zest 2 lemons, thinly sliced 1 ¼ cups of gin 2 ½ cups of water 1 cup of sherry 10 tbsp raw brown sugar Mix sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice and water in a saucepan and bring simmer until sugar is dissolved. Add gin and sherry and allow to boil slowly for several minutes. Turn off heat, add lemon slices and stir in sugar to taste.

Hot Buttered Rum 2 cups water 1/2 stick unsalted butter 1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar 1 tsp cinnamon 1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg 1/4 tsp ground cloves 1/8 tsp salt 2/3 cup dark rum Mix all ingredients except rum in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce hieat and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove it from heat and stir in rum. Serve in Irish mugs. Millionaire’s Coffee 1 1/2 ounces Irish Whiskey 1/2 ounce Irish Cream 1/2 ounce Kahlua 1/2 ounce Grand Marnier Fresh coffee Pour whiskey, Irish cream, Kahlua and Grand Marnier directly into a warmed mug, stirring to blend. Fill with black coffee.

RESTAURAN T & BAR

Light & Festive Tangy Cider Fizz 1 tsp brown sugar 1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice 2 ounces sweet vermouth 1 ounce fresh apple cider 4 ounces club soda Lemon zest Add brown sugar to a rocks glass and stir in lemon juice until dissolved. Add vermouth and cider, stirring gently. Add ice and top with club soda. Garnish with lemon zest. Ginger Moscow Mule 2 ounces vodka 1½ ounces simple syrup 1 ounce fresh lime juice 1 tsp finely grated ginger 2 ounces club soda 1 lime wedge Candied ginger for garnish Fill shaker with ice and add vodka, simple syrup, lime juice and shake vigorously. Strain into glass and top with club soda. Garnish with candied ginger and lime wegdge. Apple Pie Martini ½ cup apple cider 3 tbsp simple syrup ¼ cup vodka 1 tsp pure vanilla extract 1 tsp cinnamon schnapps ¼ tsp apple pie spice Pinch of salt, optional Apple slices, optional 1 tablespoon brown sugar Pinch of ground cinnamon Mix brown sugar and cinnamon to rim martini glass. Mix ingredients in shaker and shake well. Serve in martini glass. Rosemary Green Tea Martini 2 ounces vodka 3 ounces brewed green tea 1/2 ounce of simple syrup 1 fresh sprig of rosemary 1 lemon wedge Muddle rosemary and lemon in mixing glass. Add vodka, green tea and simple syrup. Shake and strain into martini glass. Garnish with rosemary. Prickly Pear 1 pear, peeled & chopped 1 tbsp honey 1/2 lime, juiced 3 ounces bourbon 6 ounces ginger ale, chilled In a cocktail shaker, muddle pear, honey and lime juice. Add bourbon, fill with ice and shake. Divide into two glasses, top with ginger ale. Candy Cane Martini 1 1/4 ounces vanilla vodka Candy cane for garnish 1 1/4 ounces crème de cacao 3/4 ounce peppermint schnapps Combine liquors in an ice-filled cocktail shaker. Shake well and strain into martini glass. Garnish with candy cane.

TAKE A BITE OUT OF US ON TUESDAYS

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TIERRA FINA Handpainted Pottery

◆ Ceramic House Number Tiles ◆ Great Greeting Cards ◆ Body Care ◆ Lamps ◆ Cookbooks ◆ Cool Kid Gifts ◆ Rugs ◆ Candles ◆ Fun Things for your Home and Garden ◆ Men’s Gadgets ◆ Stocking Stuffers

Wet It! Eco Friendly, Reusable Sponge Cloth

Good Medicine Ball

Made with organic flaxseed, herbs, and essential oils

Men’s Gadgets

Heat or freeze to massage away aches and pains

415 Front Street, Beaufort 252-504-2789 www.415front.com

Home of the BEST Shrimpburger on the Crystal Coast SEAFOOD SANDWICHES Shrimpburger Oysterburger Scallopburger Clamburger Crab Cake Sandwich Fresh Flounder Filet Sandwich Soft Shell Crab SANDWICHES Hamburger Cheeseburger Big Oak 1/3lb. Superburger Hot Dog Corn Dog Barbecue Chicken (Grilled or Fried) Bacon, Lettuce, Tomato Chicken Salad Grilled Cheese Steak & Cheese

BIG OAK CATERING Whole Pig (Cooked & Seasoned For Pickin) Whole Pig (Chopped & Seasoned) 1/2 Pig 1/2 Pig (Chopped & Seasoned) Bar-B-Que (By the Pint) Chicken - Fried (Whole) SIDE ORDERS Hushpuppies (By the Doz) French Fries Onion Rings Corn Bread Stix (By the Doz) Hushpuppies Slaw (Pt.) Potato Salad (By the Pint) Apple Stix Corn Stix (6) Slaw (By the Pint) Brunswick Stew Chicken Bites Baked Beans (By the Pint) Cheese Stix Fried Pickles Sweet Potato Waffle Fries Hot Dog Chili (By the Pint) Chicken Tenders Brunswick Stew (By the Pint or Quart) BEVERAGES Gallon of Tea Soft Drinks, Lemonade, Iced Tea Banana Pudding (Serves 30-40 People) Milkshakes BARBECUE TAKE HOME PACKS 1pt. BBQ, 1pt. Slaw, 2 doz. Hushpuppies 1pt. BBQ 1pt. Brunswick Stew BBQ Tray with Slaw

w/lettuce & tomato or peppers & onions

PLATES

Served with french fries, slaw, hushpuppies and tea

Fried Shrimp Scallop Flounder Clam Oyster Crab Cake Soft Shell Crab Combination of any 2 Seafoods Combination of any 3 Seafoods Barbecue BBQ & Brunswick Stew Fried Chicken (1/4) Dark or White

BIG OAK HOT WINGS

Near the center of Bogue Banks, a barrier island off Morehead City, you pull into the parking lot of what looks like a 1960’s burger stand. There’s no dining room, just a small easy-to-miss brick building. At the window, you place your order (trust us, make it a shrimpburger). The server writes the order on a paper sack, which soon will be handed out with your meal inside: fried shrimp, tartar sauce, coleslaw, and ketchup, all piled on a steamed bun. Messy and totally yummy.

6pieces 12pieces 24pieces Located in the heart of Salter Path, NC Visit our Web Site: www.bigoakdrivein.com

- Coastal Living Magazine

252-247-2588

DRINK

Bar

Basics Begin stocking your home bar just in time for the holidays.

o, you’ve been thinking about stocking your own home bar. Whether it’s because you have moved into a new home and have some extra space for entertaining friends and family or you just plain want one, it doesn’t have to be a difficult task or an expensive one either. Certainly there are literally hundereds of rums, whiskeys, vodkas and other liquors to choose from, ranging in price from a few dollars a bottle to a few hundred dollars, that doesn’t mean that you need to run to the ABC store and drop a cool $1,000 on all the fancy liquor you can afford. In fact, stocking a basic home bar can be quite the contrary if you take the time to do a little planning. Rule #1. It’s your bar don’t waste your money buying liquors that you don’t like or are unlikely to drink. Just the basics will do fine rums and tequilas for making those sweet tasty summery drinks. Vodka for your martinis and cosmopolitans. A couple of bottles of whisky including a Canadian whiskey like Crown Royal are a must (unless you don’t like whiskey, your bar remember!). It also never hurts to have a decent gin, brandy and scotch on hand as well. Remember this is just a suggestion to get you pointed in the right direction – this is your bar, stock it with your favorites and don’t think it’s necessary to go top shelf all the way. Rule #2. Storage, most liquor will keep for a long time especially if they are sealed tightly and kept in a cool dark place like a cabinet. If your bar’s location does not have a cabinet for keeping the bottles out of the light, then do your best to make sure they stay out of direct sunlight. The good news is that the less liquid there is in the bottle, the faster you need to drink it, because it can start to lose its flavor and aroma the more air they have in them. So when those bottles get down past half full, it’s time to start making doubles, or plan a night with friends. Rule #3. You gotta have some barware. Once again the basics will be just fine here. A good ice bucket or table top ice maker is a must; it’s hard to have a nice cool drink without it. A quality stainless steel cocktail shaker, strainer, bar spoon and jigger are other great additions. For making those tasty frozen drinks you are going to need a blender also. Eager to explore some new cocktails? A good recipe book is also great to have on hand. Find one that allows you to make

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

notes in the margins and use it as an ongoing guide to what you like and what you don’t. You can also make notes if you modify the recipe to suite your taste. These basic barware utensils will help mixing your favorite drinks easier also. Rule #4. There are three basic types of glassware you should keep with your bar. You’ll need a shorter glass, a taller high ball glass and if you plan of keeping some wine around you will also need some stemware. Depending on how many folks you plan to invite over at one time can easily determine how many you will need to have on hand, but generally six to eight of each type should be plenty. Rule #5. Liqueurs and mixers are a must. Cointreau is a bar must have with its clean orange flavor that’s not too sweet; it goes well with those fruity summertime drinks. Red and white vermouth for manhattans and martinis. The bitters are important because they help blend the flavors when mixing those drinks like bloody marys, dark and stormys or a lemon whisky sour. Don’t forget to include a few other types of tropical fruit juices (just remember they have expiration dates and you need to keep an eye on them). That’s it folks, this is by no means the all inclusive guide to building your own home bar but it is a good way to get started. Just remember that you are primarily stocking this bar for you and that ultimately it should include your favorites along with some of the standards for serving drinks when friends and family stop by. Start small and allow the bar to build over time. You’ll quickly be amazed at how much you can gather, and how many drinks from that recipe book that you can put together with items on hand. Cheers!

THE ON A

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DRINK

Distilling History story by Amanda Dagnino

ichard Chapman is a man with a history. Like many in the South, Chapman – a Sanford native who made his way to the Crystal Coast in the early 1990s – can trace his roots to the Civil War and beyond. While there are a variety of common threads through the decades, the one that Chapman hopes to build a future on is alcohol. Sitting in the entry hall of the construction zone that is Bogue Sound Distillery on Highway 24, Chapman is watching his dream become reality in slow motion. The exterior building is now intact and interior space that hasn’t been framed already is marked with thick blue painter’s tape. The outline of the tasting bar wraps along the rear wall and the steps to the second story offices make it easy to visualize how the offices will look down over the rest of the operation. Pipes are run and huge stainless steel fermentation tanks line the wall in the distilling room. The alcohol industry is one rife with regulations. Chapman initially wanted to open at a smaller site until the new building was finished, but when he learned that he would have to reapply for licensing, he decided against it. “It’s been a complicated process – I think that describes it well,” said Chapman, sitting at a table just inside the open double glass front doors with a comfortable breeze rolling through. “It’s taken longer than we had hoped, but things are coming together.” And he’s not in a rush to the finish line. Chapman definitely gives off the vibe that he would rather take his time and do things correctly regardless of the task at hand. He’s done his homework, both researching the industry and doing a fair share of test batches to perfect the process. His hands have been in it from the beginning – from perfecting recipes to designing and constructing the building. “From top to finish, good bad and indifferent, it’s mine,” Chapman said. He’s soft spoken and friendly. He credits his mother for his manners. She was, as he describes, the epitome of a Southern lady. She emphasized good manners, she was formal, but she also encouraged her children to be independent and to aim high. “She taught us to achieve – ‘nothing in this world can take the place of persistence,’” Chapman said, smiling as he channels his inner Calvin Coolidge. “That quote pretty much sums me up.”

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

His children, who had surely heard it many times while growing up, had it printed and framed a few years ago. Now hanging in his home, the quote stands as a daily reminder that with perseverance all things are possible. It is those strong family ties that will thread together his line of liquor beginning with vodka, the first offering to reach the market from Bogue Sound Distillery. Chapman’s great-grandfather, John A.P. Conoley, was a major in Jeb Stuart’s cavalry during the Civil War. He was wounded in 1863 in Fredericksburg, Va., where he found himself under the care of a Union medical team. So impressed by the care he received from his nurse, Conoley promised to name his first child after her. And he kept his word. Chapman’s grandmother was Alice Vitzellen Conoley, a name also carried by his mother. He will do his part to carry the name forward as the name of his 85-proof vodka. “The vodka is really a tribute to that nurse who saved my greatgrandfather and for all the nurses who saved so many,” he said. “It has to taste good, but your story is just as important as your taste.” Chapman, and business partner and wife Margaret, hope to begin production in the distillery by spring of 2018. The vodka, he said, is just the beginning. Chapman hopes to follow it up with John A.P. Conoley whiskey, Chapman John Alexander single malt and Oyster Cracker moonshine. The pair is focused on being as environmentally friendly as possible and to using locally sourced products where appropriate. A cistern will gather rainwater to cool the equipment and ventilation equipment will completely recycle the air every few minutes. “It’s important to us that we’re not only good neighbors to the community, but that we’re a positive addition to the area,” said Chapman. A tasting bar will allow visitors to sample the wares and Chapman anticipates decorating the public area of the distillery with a little history, including a 1923 Model T with whiskey barrel and an antique grist mill. “I want people to come in and get to know about the history of liquor production – specifically the history of production in North Carolina,” he said. “If we don’t know where we’ve been, we don’t know where we’re going.”

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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Lady Sings the

BLUES story by Laura Martier

photo by Lori Douglas

“Hey, Ruthie! When you going to learn how to play the blues?” When young Ruth Wyand went to her weekly guitar lesson in downtown Atlantic City she would walk from her home through the Lagoon section of the Venice Park neighborhood to the bus stop, and each time she would hear the same question. The curious neighbor turned out to be Mac Elder. Every week in the warmer months, when Elder was outside washing his car, his music – Elmore James, Robert Johnson, Billie Holiday and Motown – would slow Wyand’s pace as she approached with her ears open wide. “Hey Ruthie, when you going to learn how to play the blues?” Wyand was 12 and one of nine children who were listening to a great variety of music at home, just about anything but the blues. When the music bug bit there were only three guitars in her school’s music program and boys got them first. The rule was that if someone quit their lessons, the instrument would be passed on to another student. So Wyand played the flute, then the clarinet through fifth grade, until one year later a guitar finally became available. To this day, she still hasn’t given it back. One day Elder showed her a Hound Dog Taylor album cover and on it she saw a sixfingered black man holding a guitar with a slide on one of his fingers. Wyand thought that because she was white, a girl and had only five fingers, she would never be able to play the slide guitar. Living in such a large household, Wyand had to carve out practice time in a bedroom she shared with three sisters. She played every chance she got. When everyone else was watching “The Carol Burnett Show” she would practice in her room. Both her mother, a home economics teacher, and father, a police officer, were very supportive, and at 15 she began playing in clubs around Atlantic City, catching rides from older band mates or in her father’s squad car. Wyand went to college on an athletic scholarship for field hockey, but when the desire to play and study music surpassed as else she transferred to Stockton College, graduating with a degree in music theory. It was there that she started playing slide guitar and where the seed planted by Elder blossomed and bloomed.

A Life Based on Music In her early years, Wyand traveled in various bands and was constantly on the road. (Continued on page 28) NCCOAST.COM

(Continued from page 27)

She married Chris Creighton, her husband of 34 years, and took a job as a technical stage hand in Atlantic City so she could be home more and concentrate on song writing. During these years, she and Creighton would leave the Jersey Shore to vacation in Avon. There she forged a friendship with the owner of the Froggy Dog, Sid, who after Wyand, invited her to play at the legendary music venue in Avon. Every summer the two would head back to Avon for a few weeks of vacation and every year there was another place to play music. Wyand’s finger-picking, Piedmont style of playing and clever, original blues songs like “Blame Yourself Blues” and “Been in the Storm so Long” quickly grew her a loyal following. Eventually, the need to retreat to a more creative place became too strong to ignore. “The money was good in Atlantic City, and it was fun for awhile running the spotlight for Janet Jackson and The Miss America Pageant and working as a costume assistant for the Moscow Ballet,” Wyand recalls, “but with a 60-hour work week, I didn’t write at all.” Creighton found a job with the post office in Kill Devil Hills, so they pulled up their New Jersey stakes and mad e new nest. The slower pace and creative lifestyle on the Outer Banks gave Wyand wings to fly. It was Wyand’s realtor, Gary Rader, who found them a home in Colington Harbour and introduced Wyand to the local music community and scene. Wyand worked her way up from the open mic night at Kelly’s to regular solo gigs, which led to teaching and small concerts. Together, she and Creighton created a simply life, with music playing the starring role. Last summer, Wyand decided to enter a Blues Challenge competition in Virginia Beach. Without ever having taken part in one before, she walked away with second place, a cash award and the know-how to figure out just what it would take to win the next time. She went on to compete in the North Carolina Blues Challenge, where she won first place in the solo/duo category, prize money and advancement into the International Blues Challenge in Memphis, Tenn. While in Tennessee in February 2017 she made it into the semi-finals and became one of eight musical acts selected from 120 to play The Orpheum Theater. She was the only woman to make it into the finals since 2003 and the only woman in her category. That’s a fitting distinction because Wyand has dedicated a great amount of her time to researching and honoring women pioneers who broke down the barriers of the male dominated music profession. For the N.C. Humanities Council, Wyand created a multimedia presentation about the first documented women musicians in North Carolina In the show, which she titles “Through Their Voices,” Wyand gives voice to artists like Ella May Wiggins, Nina Simone, Samantha Baumgardner (the first banjo player ever to record in 1922), Etta Baker and Cherokee and Lumbee Indian women musicians. She takes listeners on a journey through original stories, songs and images to bring forward this forgotten history. “Ella May Wiggins was a Gastonia textile mill worker and mother of nine before the age of 34,” Wyand said. “Four of her children died of whooping cough and her husband left her. She was an advocate who sang for folks living in tent city camps during the Luray mill strike of 1929. No wonder she had the blues. She left a big impact on North Carolina history.”

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

Another of Wyand’s multimedia presentations was inspired because of a regular gig at the Avon Village Theatre, a tiny 40-seat space adjacent to a gas station in Avon. Offered a weekly gig at the theater, she discovered there was a movie screen behind the stage. Not wanting to play in front of a big white screen, she created “A Journey Down an American Music Highway” about the history of American Music from the Civil War to the present, making full use of the screen with images and information. At one of her performances, a woman on vacation from the U.S. Embassy Kuwait saw the show and asked Wyand if she would be interested in presenting it in Kuwait. “That’s how I ended up becoming a musical ambassador for the U.S. Embassy’s Cultural Exchange Program; from a little gas station theater in Avon,” Wyand said.

Passing it On As much as she is known for her music, one of the biggest impacts she has made in this small community is by nurturing young musicians. The local Mustang Music Outreach Program, which partners regional and national musicians with students in Dare and Currituck counties, was developed in 2014 from a summer band camp that Wyand created. When Mike Dianna, founder of the Mustang Music Festival, was looking for a program to support with proceeds from the annual music festival, he saw a perfect opportunity with Wyand. There are currently 25 students in the program, ranging from third grade through high school and making up four bands, one of which plays only original material. The bands showcase their talents at community events and some of the older students are even hired out for private parties using Wyand’s sound system and her advice on how to act like a professional musician. “The Mustang Outreach Program is incredibly grateful to be led by such an amazingly talented, world-class musician and person like Ruth Wyand,” Dianna said. This model is also being explored by Dare2Care, an organization that works to build awareness for veterans and encourages inclusion for individuals with intellectual and developmental disabilities within the Outer Banks community. Wyand plans to work with Dare2Care to form bands and teach music to the people it serves. “Thanks to Ruth, our house is full of music and happier because of it,” said Stephanie Willis, mother of young Mustang Outreach musicians Sam and Jonah. “Through Ruth’s patience and guidance Sam and Jonah have grown to love music. It is a huge part of their lives.” When Mac Elder died in 1994, Wyand played at her surrogate blues father’s funeral. His encouragement to a young Wyand is living on in a new generation. Whether her students end up studying music further or not, the impact Wyand has had on their young lives will, like the melody, linger on. Catch a listen for yourself on Saturday, Nov. 11, when Wyand performs at Joslyn Hall on the campus of Carteret Community College as part of the Down East Folk Art Society’s annual music series. General admission tickets are $16; members, $13; and students, $10. Doors open at 6:30pm and the music begins at 7:30. Learn more about the annual series, or purchase tickets, at www. downeastfolkarts.org.

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HISTORY

Finding Roots L

story & photos by Megan Dohm

ooking for a better sense of who you are? Not just who you are, but where you came from? A great place to start would be one of Carteret County’s greatest underutilized resources: the Jack Goodwin Research Library inside the History Museum of Carteret County (formerly known as The History Place). Tucked in the back, past the gift shop and displays, visitors will find a truly wondrous resource for family research. While the rest of the exhibits are kept under dim museum lighting, this room is brightly lit by fluorescent bulbs. But don’t let the white light fool you, though; the research library is far from clinical. Rows of bookcases line one wall with an array of periodicals. Some shelves hold antique books, some hold books that came out last year and others contain rows of binders that keep different sorts of records in order. Running down the center of the room are several large tables and desks. All of them are wide and have comfortable chairs next to them – perfect for spreading out the books and papers you can find and delving into your own personal history. Dee Lewis, a full-time volunteer, said one of the goliath tables and the desk he works at came from the courthouse in Beaufort. Back in the day the register of deeds would sit on one side of his desk, and the clerk of court would sit on the other. Resting his hands on the solid wood, Lewis said, “The hurricane might blow the building away, but that table and that desk will still be here.” Lewis got his start in the research library back in 2005, when he was researching his own family. “I just wanted to know who I was. This is who I am,” he said, passing a genealogy with few gaps in it across the desk. Although he was born and raised in Carteret County, when he first came to the archives he could not name any ancestors beyond his grandparents. After hours spent at a desk going through everything from family Bible notations to court records, he is now thoroughly informed about his heritage. On one side of his family, he was able to trace a line all the way back to the Vikings. He said it’s not hard to believe, with the blond hair, blue eyes and powerful build on that side of the family. Instead of expending the effort to call a more distant relative his great-great-great-great uncle or aunt, Lewis has developed a shorthand of calling them gruncles and graunties (sort of rhymes with Monty). One of the gruncles he has found in his family tree is the famous privateer, Otway Burns. Another gruncle, one of the Martins of Bath, was a shipmate of Blackbeard’s who was caught with the rest of the crew off of Ocracoke, but was pardoned because he was so young. When not helping people who come to the library looking for their relatives, Lewis is still working away at the different branches of his family tree. His

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

current project is checking up on Boaz Squires, a relative from one of the earliest settlements in North Carolina, who supposedly had dealings with the devil. But a lot of his time is spent helping people find their families, or as he put it “their people.” The library has an abundance of resources to help visitors track down their relatives, particularly if they’re from North Carolina. Besides the 10,000 books on the shelves, they have court records, old newspapers, photographs and even data from the Quaker church. Lewis’ favorite assets are the cemetery and census records, along with a book that contains entries from old family Bibles. Since every U.S. Census done prior to 1850 only included the head of household, family Bibles have long helped fill in genealogy gaps. The library also has records that stretch beyond North Carolina and up the east coast. Starting in Virginia, the additional records work their way through Pennsylvania and New England, where many Carteret County families moved from. Since the community has been around for so long, most of the residents of Carteret County are (to use Lewis’ word) kin in one way or another. A lady had just called from Williamsburg to inquire about her family from New Bern, and after a little research Lewis found out that her ancestor’s sister married his great-grandfather, making them cousins in a roundabout way. When new people wander into the library seeking information, Lewis has been known to introduce himself, “Hi, I’m Dee. We’re probably cousins.” Life is always exciting for the volunteers in the research library. Their day’s work and topic of conversation is determined by the people who come in looking for answers. One man comes in wanting to find the background of the home he had just purchased, another would like to know if they have a picture of his brother with his foot in a shark’s mouth (they did). The volunteers have a bona fide goldmine of collective knowledge - and as for the things they don’t know, they’ve usually got a pretty good idea of where to start looking. When describing the mission of the research library workers, Lewis said, “What we want to do is light the fire, is get people excited about finding out who their people are. And we can show them how to do

it and where to look, and after that they’re off and running. All we need to do is give them that first potato chip and show them where they can get more.” One of their favorite sights is that of the ‘genealogy dance’ which is usually performed by a little jump in the seat and arms being flung triumphantly into the air – it’s the sure sign of a new researcher successfully mining information to find something they did not know before. All the researchers are encouraged keep track of their findings in a binder with page protectors, to ensure that they can always pick back up where they left off. “It’s sometimes real exciting here, you know,” said Lewis of all the discoveries people make. “It’s not the traditional library. We don’t whisper here, this is where adults have conversations.” Finding the roots of your family has a surprisingly spiritual aspect to it, according to Lewis. Your ancestors did not just pass on DNA and that ugly lamp that you don’t like, but also can’t get rid of. “As well as inheriting your physical characteristics (which everyone’s aware of), you inherit the intangible stuff, the likes, dislikes, preferences, instincts, fears. The innate knowledge, things that you just know that [you] were never taught,” he offered. In looking into the past, there is a good chance you will find out more about yourself in the present. You might even find your doppelganger in an old photograph, like Lewis did. At first things start with dry names and dates, filling out a genealogy. But when you unearth these bare bone facts, you can move on to finding out where your ancestors lived; you can begin to understand how they lived, what they thought and felt, and what they passed on to you. It’s comforting in a way that all historians understand, and the genealogists at the Jack Goodwin Research Library are trying to pass on to others. “There’s security in the history, and that’s what we want to give, especially young people,” said Lewis. “We want them to know that you have an anchor. It’s not just you and your parents, you are the present-day version of your family that has been somewhere for thousands of years … And if you’d like to meet your ancestors, we can help you.” NCCOAST.COM

FOOD

The

friendliest

Market

n the corner of Bridges Street and Friendly Road in Morehead City, a market is growing and blooming into a local landmark. From the road it looks a bit like a barn, but from the parking lot it looks like a buzzing marketplace. Matt and Mindy Fitzpatrick are the dynamic duo behind The Friendly Market. Both are energetic and intensely invested in their business, but also friendly and open. It is instantly clear that they are consistently on each other’s team, taking every opportunity to praise one another and give credit where credit is due. Mindy attributes the original idea for the business to Matt, while he readily admits that it was her cooking that brought most of their customers to the corner. People are everywhere. Saturday shoppers meandered through the outdoor nursery and produce stand, ignoring the gathering clouds and instead focusing on the enormous watermelons and bouquets of freshly picked wildflowers. The porch in front of Mindy’s is designed as an invitation for people to sit down and

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

story & photos by Megan Dohm

stay a while, with rocking chairs and a view of the garden in bloom. The store is a revolving door of people coming in to get that night’s dinner from the refrigerated case lining the back wall or seeking a legendary dessert, and customers just perusing. In the kitchen things are even busier. Sweet and savory smells mingle in the air as nearly a dozen employees in bright tie-dyed T-shirts peel, chop, bake and operate a mixer the size of a small bath tub. Several different kinds of pie radiate heat from the cooling rack, just a step away from trays brimming with tomato cheese biscuits. On the stove a stock pot full of chicken is slowly bubbling, while peaches are being diced nearby for sweet salsa. Everyone is hopping, but not frantic. It is an organized sense of chaos by staff members who know exactly what to do – and seem to love doing it. Mindy is at the helm, talking everything from marketing to new recipes. It’s easy to tell that she never tires of this business they have taken years to build. The Friendly started as a farmer’s market of sorts in 2008. Matt

was in housing at the time and when the real estate bubble burst the Fitzpatricks could see the writing on the wall. With almost no funds to develop the idea, Matt and Mindy organized a market of pop-up tents on land they had inherited from her parents. On most weekdays the corner sold produce and plants, and on Wednesdays and Saturdays they had a full-fledged farmer’s market with art, handmade items and baked goods. At The Friendly Market’s inception Mindy was one of the Saturday vendors, selling cookies and pies out of the back of her car. Right off the bat, Mindy wanted to offer dishes that were unique, something you wouldn’t necessarily expect to find at a farmer’s market. As demand for her wares grew, the Fitzpatricks realized they needed to be open seven days a week, selling what brought customers to the corner in the first place: crack. No, not that kind of crack; the public renamed Mindy’s famous Market Pies, often referring to them as Crack Pies due to their chocolaty, addictive qualities. Classic recipes like this built the corner, according to Mindy. It just made sense to open up a kitchen to give customers more of the food they were looking for. Although Mindy isn’t a professionally trained cook, she has a keen sense for what makes truly good food. Traveling frequently with her basketball teams throughout high school and college provided her with a broad array of foods to reference in her own work. In addition to this, making food that appeals to the masses runs in her family. Her grandfather was Cap’n Bill of Morehead City’s famed boardwalk restaurant, her father a phenomenal home cook and her mother made cookies that were so legendary Mindy would get pulled over just so the policeman could get a dozen or two. Betty Ballou carefully kept the recipe for these cookies a secret until close to her death. After she passed, her family honored her request to be cremated and buried in her cookie tin. Was the recipe worth all the fuss? Named “Bettys” after their creator, the cookies are still one of The Friendly Market’s best sellers, after almost 10 years of operation. The original kitchen was essentially a 16 foot by 20 foot box with basic kitchen equipment. Although it did allow them expand their offerings beyond baked goods (by state law any food that needs refrigeration has to be cooked in an industrial kitchen), it was not fancy by any means, Mindy admits. Their equipment came down to two fridges, a hot dog roller, a utility stainless steel table a KitchenAid mixer and one oven. But it was a basis on which to grow. And grow they have. When the business changes, it is always a direct result of the customers. Every change has been dictated by customer response, either through clear buying habits or actual feedback. Fully aware of the challenges that come with a constantly growing business, Matt and Mindy take it on readily, knowing that the cost of not being willing to change would be even greater. “It’s not easy,” Matt said. “It takes effort, it takes creativity, it takes time and money, but you have to evolve. If we were with our original business plan right now, we wouldn’t be here right now.” As things evolved, it was obvious that there was a window to begin producing more savory food from recipes Mindy developed with input from the staff and Matt. Some of the signature dishes produced by the kitchen were almost an accident, while others took more time. Her famous tomato cheese, (think pimento, but (Continued on page 36 NCCOAST.COM

(Continued from page 35)

with roasted tomatoes and more depth of flavor) was whipped up on a whim for a New Year’s Eve party. It was one of those one-ina-million recipes that hasn’t changed since. The blue collard dip was created as a ploy to prove to Matt that he could enjoy collards – despite liking the dip, he still argues that anything would taste good with the other ingredients, which include some of the most delicious dairy products known to man, accompanied by bacon. Premade dinners for families of four or more were soon flying out of the kitchen as well, made by an always growing task force. The premise is simple – cook with locally sourced products and provide the market with authentic, home cooking. The take and bake dinners were an instant hit, with people checking social media or calling the market regularly to see what is on the menu. Other items, like Mindy’s popular chicken salad and tomato pies, freshmade green salads, spaghetti and meatballs, stroganoff, quiche, donuts, pound cake and an array of delectable pies are available daily. Inside the market, visitors will also find an array of ingredients, from sauces to honey, that they can take home and cook with themselves. Of course it couldn’t be done without an amazing staff, which Mindy takes every opportunity to brag about. She and Matt have just returned from a two week family trip to New York, where they had complete peace of mind because of their capable, trustworthy employees. “It’s better to have a team play with you than for you, and encourage people to lead, too. It makes for a happier place,” said Mindy, drawing from her athletic background. Both she and Matt have tried to alleviate the pressure often found in industrial kitchens by allowing freedom to experiment, to give honest feedback and make mistakes – as long as all of this

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

helps the employee learn. The work environment and close knit community that Mindy and Matt have created help attract a talented, hard working staff, which Mindy said is one of their greatest assets. The Fitzpatricks do not view employment at The Friendly Market as only a summer job, or something to get kids through college; they see it as the start of a long term relationship, something that will help form their employees into the people they are meant to be. “It’s like one family,” Mindy said. “With our customers, our staff, farmers and growers, we’re one big family now. And we need to take care of that.” While adept at their jobs, The Friendly Market staff is also affectionate and supportive of one another. It’s easy to see that there is a lot of love between them. Not a syrupy-sweet, melt-away-inthe-rain variety but more of a hearty, drop-everything-and-makesoup-for-a-sick-friend kind of love, and it bleeds through their work, into their customers and community. Jennifer Lee, who runs the produce section, where she greets most female customers with, “Hello, beautiful!” said she loves Mindy to the moon and back. Kimber, who works in the kitchen on weekends, spends her weekdays serving the school system. She said that to her, working at Mindy’s Baked Goods on her two free days is like therapy. Watching the staff interact with Mindy makes it clear that she plays a fierce, protective role, something akin to a mama bear. From its very earliest days, The Friendly Market has been about the business of bringing people together; customers, local sellers, employees and family have all been folded into the journey. In doing so, Mindy and Matt have created a place where customers can expect quality products and a welcoming community.

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FOOD

The of

science fishing

hat is the common thread between King Louis XIV, a weathered fisherman called Clammerhead, an ecological crisis, a professor from UNC-Chapel Hill and aquaculture? Oysters. When Europeans arrived on our continent, oysters were known as the Kings of the Coast, a seemingly endless protein source that kept the water in the Chesapeake Bay sparkling and clear. In North Carolina, they are only at roughly 10 percent of their former abundance. Sandbar Oyster Company, founded by Dr. Niels Lindquist of the UNC Institute of Marine Sciences and Clammerhead (yes, he really goes by that) are working to restore the oyster population to its former glory. We caught up with Dr. Niels Lindquist in his Morehead City office, while David “Clammerhead” Cessna presented his perspective on a 16-foot boat that he skillfully piloted out to the sandbar they call The Lump, their biggest oyster growing operation in the middle of the Newport River. The two men present quite a juxtaposition. Lindquist chats under the fluorescent lights of his warm office, surrounded by stacks of books. Charts, maps, and clippings from articles hang all around but his desk is clean, ready for work. He’s mild-mannered, methodical and soft spoken as he tells the story of their company. In contrast, Clammerhead shares his experience as he trudges through sandbars and wades through the incoming tide on an unsettlingly cold and grey August afternoon. He has to be loud just to be heard clearly through the whipping wind, but his voice is never forceful – just drawling and enthusiastic in a tone made deep and gravelly from years of smoking. He has lived for all he’s worth both on the water and on shore, and it shows in his person, his mannerisms, and his working knowledge of sea life in Carteret County. On the surface, Lindquist and Clammerhead may seem like the oddest of couples, but they have a common passion for oysters that comes out almost immediately. “It’s like they’re my children, they’re all so beautiful, I can’t believe they are mine,” Clammerhead proclaims as he searches for some

story & photos by Megan Dohm

“pretty oysters” to photograph. Similarly, Lindquist is energized by the way they oysters work, and how they can be built up. As unlikely as it may have seemed 15 or 20 years ago, their partnership is a well made match. Clammerhead has been working on the water since he was six years old. It was more or less in his blood. In his words, “My grandaddy’s daddy’s grandaddy’s daddy was a commercial fisherman. Seventh-generation fisherman. My sons are eighth generation.” He still remembers the day his grandfather bought him a clamming license and a pea digger. “He told me, ‘Boy, if you’ve got any sense, you’ll throw both of these overboard,’ He was totally against me getting into the industry, cause I reckon he knew how hard-headed and stubborn I was, and I’d never get out.” A grandfather’s sixth sense proved true – after 51 years of being a commercial fisherman more often than not, Clammerhead is still going strong. Lindquist got a slightly later start, Scuba diving at age 12 in Florida. From there he graduated to spending a lot of time in the water, observing marine life, and keeping salt water tanks in his home. When it came time for a college degree, he chose chemistry as a way to study biology. This led him to chemical ecology (he stopped to explain in his kindest professor voice that chemical ecology is looking at the chemicals that plants and animals produce and trying to figure out how they produce those chemicals and what they use them for), which in turn brought him to studying coral reefs. But Lindquist began looking for another field, one a little closer to home. “One thing that got me into the oyster research was an oyster roast. I was trying to shuck oysters, and the shells just kept crumbling in my hands. I’m looking at it, and I know what the problem is.” It turns out that the same sponge that bores into coral rock on a coral reef will attack oyster reefs as well. Asking around, Lindquist found that nobody really knew what the issue was. “We started doing (Continued on page 42) NCCOAST.COM

(Continued from page 41)

research, and found out it was a big deal. It was a big deal that people have known about for hundreds of years, but had just forgotten as a big player in oyster ecology. And we have brought back that knowledge.” That early research on the boring sponge was the beginning of a multiyear collaboration between Lindquist and Clammerhead. The grant funding was specifically designed to bring together local commercial fishermen and scientists, so when another fisherman threw Clammerhead’s hat in the ring, Lindquist and his IMS colleague Dr. Joel Fodrie reached out. Although Clammerhead initially had misgivings, it was winter and things were slow, so he went in to help. “I quickly found out that the scientists I was working with were more than just scientists,” Clammerhead noted, “They were top-notch human beings… They were the kind of scientists that were getting out in the water, and working with you.” Paper-pushing landlubbers they certainly were not. Lindquist and Clammerhead began to feed off of each other, finding that their separate years of expertise combined well and that each had information gaps that the other could fill. What they rapidly came to realize was that there were several problems with the currently accepted ways to grow oyster reefs. These problems led them to create a unique approach to attracting oysters, and then growing the population. The key to their approach is their Oyster Catcher (named after the bird that has a particular appetite for oysters), a proprietary ephemeral substance. In layman’s terms, ephemeral substrate is defined as “stuff that organisms can attach to that is solid, but won’t last forever.” Sandbar Oyster Company makes it by taking a loosely-woven cloth made from plant fibers and passing it through a slurry of cement. The cement-infused fabric, which can then be molded into almost any shape, is left to harden. The substrate is typically formed into mats (a little bigger than a welcome mat), thick donut shapes (which have been christened ‘patties’ after their striking likeness to cow droppings), and slim but sturdy rods, about three feet long. The surface on everything is dark grey and rough, not smooth, which Lindquist said is key for providing protection for the oysters

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

when they are small. Once the material is dry, it is taken out to The Lump. The rods are tied together to make small stands about six inches off the ground, creating a three-dimensional oyster reef framework. Mats are stacked and secured to these frames. Patties are stacked up and secured four to five high on the sands of The Lump. Just one patty can hold up to 1,000 baby oysters, known as spat. The larvae will settle in between the donuts, over and under the mats, all over the stands, and begin to grow. This creates a volume of oysters, instead of just a surface like you would get on a traditional limestone/oyster shell reef. Once the baby oysters on the mat reach a certain size, the ones that are destined for market are easily stripped off and placed into mesh bags, which are then set on top of the stands where they continue feeding on the tidal flow. The patties, once coated with oysters, can be strategically placed to build up the sandbar and break strong currents; all working to restore or create oyster reefs. Since the substrate creates a volume of oysters, once the Oyster Catcher crumbles away you still have a solid oyster structure – so solid, Clammerhead could stand on them and even bounce a little. Using an evolving knowledge of oysters and their environment combined with the Oyster Catcher is helping Clammerhead and Lindquist grow oysters more efficiently. Lindquist explained what makes good oyster habitat, and what makes growing oysters out on a sandbar in an estuarine (where fresh and salt water meet and mix) environment a good idea. If the oysters are constantly under water in the saltier parts of an estuary, it makes them easier targets for their predators. But if you have them where the tide will go out, the oysters easily tolerate being exposed, while their predators and pests do not. This makes the intertidal zone a perfect safe haven for oysters.

“Oysters are really amazing in the range of environments across which they can survive and grow, salinity [the amount of salt in water] being one of them. Their pests don’t tolerate fresh water very well,” said Lindquist. This is a sentiment echoed by Clammerhead, who said we must have really messed something up to make such a tough, resilient creature go into the decline that it has. This decline has not entirely been caused by overharvesting, though. According to Lindquist, the harvesting problem has to be set in the context of changing everything oysters originally had going for them. Dredged inlets, our Intracoastal Waterway, and the development of shorelines have changed the balance of fresh and salt water in our estuaries. Estuaries of today are very different than they were in the past. This is why (Continued on page 44 NCCOAST.COM

(Continued from page 43)

growers will have to adapt, but in the words of Clammerhead, “Of course we all do, it’s how we as a species learned to walk.” The potential benefits of adapting are great, both in terms of economic gain and helping to reset this important slice of the environment. A healthy, thriving oyster population means cleaner water, for one thing. An adult oyster can filter about 50 gallons a day, give or take. It does so easily as it breathes and eats, filtering through its floating food; eating some materials, and discarding the inedible stuff down into the sediment, so it is taken out of the water column. This makes the water more clear, so the sunlight can shine further down. More sunlight encourages the growth of habitatforming species like seagrass. Phytoplankton (small floating plants) draws carbon dioxide out of the air via photosynthesis. This carbon, which was incorporated into the plants, is then eaten by the oysters, digested and expelled – most of it gets deposited down into the reef, where it is buried. It’s an exciting concept: the ability to remove some of the carbon that would otherwise be in the atmosphere, simply by fostering oysters. The oyster’s feeding process is also a driving force behind a process called denitrification. Denitrification reduces dangerous levels of nitrogen-based chemicals, levels that can encourage unwanted algal bloom. As the oysters feed and grow and reproduce - and repeat that cycle many times, with the larvae settling on the shells of their parents – they form an oyster reef. Lindquist and Clammerhead tap into this cycle with the Oyster Catcher to create living shorelines. These living shorelines in turn serve to dampen the effects caused by high waves and strong currents (such as shoreline erosion) and create valuable fishery habitat. “We’re creating a lush environment from a sand flat that on its own supports some life, but not to the degree we have in our created habitat,” Lindquist said. “We’re trying to get our estuarine environment up to the condition it used to be in.” If the ecological advantages weren’t exciting enough, Sandbar Oyster Company will soon be making waves with their signature oyster, appropriately named the Atlantic Emerald. Lindquist explained that due to the green hue the gills of these oysters take on, they have been shunned by most buyers in the past. If they were purchased, it was generally at a reduced price. What turns the oysters green is eating a harmless microscopic plant (if you want it in scientific terms, it’s a diatom called Haslea ostrearia, and beyond being harmless, it is actually thought to have antioxidant, antiviral, and antibiotic properties, making it good for the human immune system). Previously, the American public did not know what turned them green. However, there was a group of people that caught on to the green gill craze – the French. All the way back in the 1700s, green oysters were a favorite of Louis XIV, the Sun King. For those of you who haven’t brushed up on your French history lately, he was the king who built the decadent Palace of Versailles, and proudly proclaimed “The state is me!” If a person like that tells you that green oysters are the best oysters, you agree with him. The French perfected a method to turn oysters green on purpose, placing the oysters in ponds along the coast that contained the diatom roughly a month before they will go to market. They are now one of the most expensive, sought-after oysters in Europe. So, if the green coloring is not harmful, does it make a difference in the taste? Without hesitation, Lindquist said that they are better.

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

As a way to explain the difference in taste, Clammerhead said, “It’s like the difference between a kiss, and a kiss when you’re in love.” Lindquist added that the Sandbar Oyster Company is working to develop a premium market for green gills in the United States, North Carolina in particular. “Just the visual presentation is something new and different, and something that chefs who are more on the cutting edge, and want to give their diners something to really ponder and think, ‘This is something really weird and different, but delicious.’” They have had interest from local chefs, and even from one of the food moguls behind ThinkFoodGroup to feature their oysters in restaurants as far away as Los Angeles. Lindquist sees this as an opportunity to move Atlantic Emeralds up the food chain into a prominent place of desirability. Rowan Jacobsen, prolific author, food blogger, and oyster expert who drew the culinary world’s attention to the Atlantic Emerald and Sandbar Oyster Company, wrote that North Carolina has the potential to become the ‘Napa Valley of oysters.’ Lindquist thinks this is an accurate and exciting assessment. “You have so many environments … whether there’s marsh habitat all around, or it’s more open and sandy, grassy areas – those things all impart different flavor characteristics.” Even oysters grown in the same location, but at different depths in the water can have very distinct flavors. “We’re working to try to market that along with other growers, saying if you want to see what’s available with oysters in terms of flavors (just like wines), North Carolina is a good place

to come and sample.” The idea is to eventually have an Oyster Road through the state for connoisseurs to travel, sampling oysters and possibly other sea life as they go. To test this idea, Sandbar Oyster Company has partnered with SeaVisions Charters of Beaufort to bring oyster enthusiasts out to The Lump to tour their operation, shuck oysters, and sample some of their Wild Pony line. Whether trying to help the environment or the economy, the two men behind Sandbar Oyster Company are playing the long game, and they are playing for the benefit of the greatest amount of people possible. Clammerhead said staunchly that whatever else happens, Sandbar will be his last job. He and Lindquist are clearly thinking about not just the next decade, but the next century; not just their own sandbar, but the statewide to global community of commercial fishermen that can be affected by their efforts. Lindquist posed a question that seems to be the summary of their work: Can we do good, and do well by doing good? To the casual observer this question may sound like a glass-half-full, rose-colored glasses way of looking at things. If you stop to think it through, you will find hopefulness mixed with grit and reality. Sandbar Oyster Company’s thesis question has been backed up by solid research, a rich knowledge of local resources, and years of work in the trenches. If doing well by doing good is a possibility, Niels Lindquist and Clammerhead will certainly make it happen. For more information, visit www.beaufortoystours.com.

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FOOD

Three of a

he most obvious first impression of Emerald Isle eatery Caribsea – Fish Prime Raw is the view. From its third floor perch in the new Transportation Impact building on Crew Drive, expansive views of the ocean and the sound can be seen from just about every vantage point. It’s hard to look away, but once visitors do, the upscale yet comfortable décor of Caribsea comes into focus. It has a cool nautically-infused industrial vibe that pays homage to its island home with a somewhat hipper translation of beach interior. The color coral is nowhere to be seen. Instead rich blues mingle with colorful artwork and galvanized steel signs. Executive Chef Patrick Hogan’s pride in the restaurant is instantly apparent as he shares insight about design decisions and the artists who have contributed to the space. “The most fun,” Hogan said, “has been the opportunity to be involved from the ground up, literally. From the layout to the design to the décor, I’ve been actively involved from the beginning.” Hogan may best be known along the stretch of the island for Carlton’s, a restaurant he opened with his father in 2003. More

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

Chef Ryan Jankowski, left, and Chef Thomas Hosley prep for dinner at Caribsea.

Kind story by Amanda Dagnino

specifically, it is the restaurant’s much-lauded crab cakes that often made an impact. The cakes are sold in stores along the island and can be found on the Caribsea menu to sate the appetites of diehard fans. In 2010, the restaurant moved to the Ocean Club to better serve catering clients holding events at the site and by early 2016, Hogan was looking for a new path. The owners of Transportation Impact, Keith Byrd and Travis Burt, were looking for something to put a feather in the cap of their new three-story building and word was spreading, as it so often does in a small community. Hogan heard a mention of the idea at a local bank. It was exactly what he was looking for. As noted on Caribsea’s website, Hogan spent time in high-

volume steak houses during the late 1990s, firing upwards of 1,000 cuts of meat a night. When asked how he got his start in the kitchen, he is fond of saying “baptism by fire,” and it seems he means that quite literally. The experience left a lot to be desired, but it also left a huge impression on the budding chef. He went on to work with Legal Sea Foods, which owns a chain of restaurants and offers an educational culinary program. He dove in, working his way through the ranks and later joining the launch team which helped open restaurants in cities up and down the east. One of the things that stuck with Hogan, he said, was that the company’s numerous restaurants all had their own individual identity instead of the whitewashed homogenous looks of many chains around the country. Through his career he has examined the restaurant industry from the inside out, giving him a clear idea of exactly what he wanted to achieve with Caribsea – and he knew from the onset that he couldn’t do it alone, he needed a strong team. While the décor and view are obvious to every diner who visits the restaurant, what is less obvious is the collaborative professional environment and the wealth of talent that is preparing their meal. Restaurants are a tricky business. From hot headed chefs prone to temper tantrums to waitstaff that have trouble handling the heat on busy, stressful summer nights, it is rare that a restaurant can find its groove so soon after opening. But just a little over a year from its opening day and Caribsea is humming like a well-oiled machine. And that can only be possible because of the team Hogan has assembled. We find a friendly recognizable face in the kitchen in Thomas

Hosley, former director of the culinary program at Carteret Community College, who is filling the role of production chef. A 1988 grad of Johnson and Wales University in Charleston, his career has been a tour of some of the region’s best known restaurants, including time in Charlotte, Raleigh and Wilmington before coming home to Carteret County to lead the college program. It doesn’t take a quick study to note that Hogan and Hosley have long been acquainted. There is a casual ease in their conversations (Continued on page 50) NCCOAST.COM

(Continued from page 49)

despite their serious, somewhat dry personas. These are men who don’t smile for the sake of it – but when they do, you know they mean it. Standing side by side, arms folded in the exact same posture, the similarity between the two is striking. And you trust it. Could these men prepare you a great meal? Absolutely. But in walks Ryan Jankowski, chef de cuisine, and you get a sense that this is going to be fun. In contrast to clean shaven Hogan and Hosley, Jankowski sports a righteous beard and tattoos show from under the curled up cuffs of his chef ’s jacket. There is a little bit of a renegade in there. You get a slight sense that he is just itching to throw these guys a curve ball and that brings an extra hint of excitement. Jankowski was in New York when he got a call about the fledgling restaurant, having attended The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. “We had a conversation and I instantly felt connected,” he said. “Modern cooking techniques and new equipment, I felt sure that we were on the same page.” Seated together in the restaurant, the three of them are immediately more animated when the conversation moves to food. This is what makes them tick, from cutting edge preparation methods to their dedication to sustainable seafood. Caribsea serves only100 percent local, sustainable seafood. That means you may see something on the menu that you’re not used to seeing, like amberjack, cobia or mackerel. It also means that you will never find overfished fisheries on the menu, like grouper. “We serve fish that people aren’t used to seeing on a menu, it’s different and unique,” said Hogan. “And people are always surprised by how good it is.” To keep folks coming back for more, the chefs change 80 to 90 percent of the main menu on a quarterly basis. Sure this gives visitors something new to choose every time they visit, but it also gives this talented group of chefs the opportunity to keep their creativity alive. Stagnation isn’t an option. Despite playing the lead role in the restaurant, Hogan is quick to express the collaborative nature of the restaurant. “There are a lot of people on the line and we all feed off

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

Executive Chef Patrick Hogan.

each other. Everyone is passionate about food and whether we’re cooking my food or cooking their food, it’s still cooking,” he said. “Everyone gets a chance to bring something to the table.” When something new is proposed they taste, they discuss and they put their creative minds together until the recipe and preparation is perfected. The same goes for the other line and prep cooks who are busily preparing for the night’s dinner service. “I always wanted to have this teaching element and that’s what Caribsea has been since the beginning,” said Hogan. “A hodgepodge of incredibly focused food-centered staff members.” The team philosophy centers on support and encouragement. In the year that the restaurant has been open it has already seen staff members leave for other ventures. And while there are two ways of interpreting a departure, this group takes it as a compliment. If someone is ready for a bigger restaurant, they’ve done something right. Although everyone is hoping Katarine, the bar manager, isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. With an ever expanding menu of craft cocktails, Katarine is as excited about fresh, organic libations as the chefs are about the restaurant’s food offerings. “She is, hands down, the best bartender in the world,” Hogan says through a stray smile. Fresh herbs, freshly-squeezed juices and house made syrups combine to create one-of-a-kind cocktails. The manager spends four hours each day prepping for dinner service, about the same amount of time that the kitchen spends preparing food. “I love it,” she said, while slicing lemons. “I enjoy so much

making new drinks and coming up with new ideas.” Like the rest of the staff, her passion for what she does emanates through. Her inside spot isn’t the only bar at Caribsea. Those looking to expand upon the amazing views can’t visit without a trip up to the Torpedo Lounge, the rooftop bar which offers a secondary option for diners. Serving the full restaurant menu and boasting some of the best views in Emerald Isle, many bypass the dining room altogether and simply enjoy their meal al fresco. Whether you’re looking for a great spot for an after-work wine down or a romantic date night, this is an experience everyone should try. Caribsea is open for lunch and dinner year-round.

NCCOAST.COM

FOOD

Sea TO S

Table

eafood is a large part of coastal life – catching it, cleaning it, selling it in restaurants and local markets, shipping it west, taking tourists out to catch it for themselves – it’s a vibrant part of both the economy and normal daily life. According to statistics from the NC Division of Marine Fisheries, last year fishermen statewide landed 60 million pounds of seafood (Carteret County contributed eight million of those pounds), a value of $94 million. A paper jointly published by Sea Grant and Duke’s Nicholas Institute estimates that seafood-related work makes up about 9,000 jobs across the state of North Carolina. But we rarely think about all the skill, labor and family history that goes into harvesting the food we find on our plates. To get a sense of the work that goes on every day to supply homes and restaurants with fresh seafood we followed the trail from sea to market, starting with an afternoon clam digging with Paul Russell and friend and collaborator Debbie Callaway. Both Paul and Debbie have their roots in commercial fishing, from past generations and have many mutual friends who have done it all their lives. Any names mentioned on the ride from Beaufort to Shackleford Banks they somehow knew, or their parents or grandparents knew. Paul’s grandfather bought clams from local fishermen and sold clams to buyers up north (he can remember his grandfather’s hands being littered with scars from shucking accidents). Debbie’s grandfather was also a clammer, and between work on the water and as a cook, he supported a family of nine in a two-story house. Like many independent commercial fishermen, Paul also has another business to supplement his fishing income. When it comes to clamming, it’s like he has developed a sixth sense. Once we disembarked and started working our way through the low-tide beach, he was finding five clams to our one. Clams come in all shapes and sizes. Buttons are the ones that are too small to keep, and then there are chowders, cherrystones, top-necks, and others. Quahogs are the really big, grandaddy clams. No one seemed to know why they’re called that, but they can be found all over our hemisphere, from Prince Edward Island in Canada to the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico. What makes a good clam? Paul said high salinity for a clean clam, and quick growth for

story & photos by Megan Dohm

tender meat – but not too quick, or else you lose quality. He set about digging where there were trickles of water running through the beach that had just appeared. Some clammers can spot where the clams have hunkered down into the sand by small indents, but it’s not an altogether reliable tactic if you haven’t developed the skill and polished it carefully. But finding them is only half the battle. There are multiple methods for harvesting clams once you find a cache: dredging (favored by large-scale commercial fishing operations, cursed by the small-time operators and environmentally-minded people), spotting them and then reaching down into the sand to retrieve them by hand (Paul said this is the way preferred by some of the Harkers Island boys, and with their seventh/eighth generation fishermen, who’s to argue with them?) and raking through the mud (Paul’s method, which on an average afternoon gets him 800 clams). As he works, Paul answers questions, stopping every now and then for a longer story. He couldn’t seem to talk without using his hands, which after a few minutes are charcoal black on the palms from the oxidation from the clam rake’s handle. This rake has served him well, though. It’s been through eight sets of teeth because the sand will eventually wear them down, but the core has held up. “It’s one of the best rakes, the guy who made it’ll tell you that. He’s arrogant.” This is said with a small laugh, and the sense that the rake-maker was an old friend who had been told he was arrogant a couple hundred times before. “I told him the thunder makes the noise, lightning does the work. Someone’s got to pull this pole.” And pull he did, for four hours, as he does each clamming day. For four hours, he raked through the heavy low tide mud. Every so often, he would feel a clam hit the rake with a small clank. He would pull it up to the surface, and turn the rake over to examine his specimen. In most cases, he could tell with a glance whether or not it is big enough to keep. If so, the rake goes in one mechanical motion back behind Paul, hovers over the rubbermaid container that he dragged behind him, and turns over, plopping the new clam in with the rest of the day’s bounty. If the clam is too small, he tosses it off to the side. The ones he isn’t quite sure about he puts through a gauge tied to one of (Continued on page 54) NCCOAST.COM

(Continued from page 53)

the harvesting buckets; if the clam slides through the one-inch slit, it gets to live another day. And so it went, all afternoon. Rake, check, plop. Rake, check, plop. Every now and again the sameness was broken by finding a conch or a horseshoe crab so tiny, it would just about fit in the small of your hand. Once or twice he and Debbie would look up at the wild horses who had emerged to see what was happening on their banks. Then right back to rake, check, plop. It was efficient, calm and almost comfortingly the same. Paul said he is always thinking when he is out there. He has a bachelor’s degree in biology, and told me the biggest gift college gave him was learning how to learn. “If you don’t learn something every day of your life, you’re probably going backwards,” he said as he pulled the rake towards him. He also has excellent taste in literature, citing Nathaniel Hawthorne as an author of choice. So he has plenty to think about as he keeps working his way through the sand – rake, check, plop. A thunderous-looking storm began rolling in, picking up the wind and chasing the clammer back to Beaufort. In the rising tide, Paul cleans the clams he had gathered, washing off all the mud and bits of sea grass that made their way into his bucket. He fills out a wrinkled form stating when he started harvesting, where he harvested, how many clams he kept and when he finished. After getting back to shore, he left quickly, so he could get his wares into a cooler. The next day, he would drop them off with Bill Rice of Fishtowne Seafood in Beaufort. Like many other people in the commercial fishing industry, Bill grew up surrounded by seafood. His mother bought a commercial CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

fishing boat when he was young, and they would go out harvesting anything that was in season and bring their catch home for dinner. It was always a hands-on experience, with processing just being a normal part of dinner prep. Fresh out of college, he and a friend got a grant to study lower-volume, higher quality seafood. After the study was over, they both went on to work on separate endeavors, only to come back together in 2004 to open Fishtowne. When we met up with them, the two men were in the kitchen hosing down a load of fish. Noticeably absent was the too-salty, lowtide scent we have all come to expect from the seafood section of big box stores. The products brought in were caught a day or so before, and processed with careful efficiency. Spots were being prepped for the display case, and vermillion snappers were being cleaned, filleted and skinned for a special order, in a way that made it look like second nature. “I’ve been doing this for 12 years,” the snapper guy said, pinning down the red tail and sliding his knife just under the skin of the snapper. “It’s not as easy as I make it look.” For Bill, an average day is spent around the shop – weighing seafood that local fishermen bring in, waiting on retail customers, overseeing the actual processing and doing office work. A not-average day happens every couple of weeks, when he gets up early, loads up a refrigerated truck and heads west. Although his final destination is Raleigh, he has several stops along the way for restaurants that prioritize fresh local fish. In Raleigh, he will have a line of people waiting to see what seafood is in store for them, as members of a coop called Walking Fish. In 2009, Bill went on a trip with a group of graduate students

exploring the idea of taking the community supported agriculture (CSA) business model, and applying it to fisheries. They went to the first community supported fisheries in the country, driving through the coastlines of New Hampshire, Massachusetts and Maine. At a time when the economy (local and otherwise) was in the tank, the CSF model was a viable option. “It certainly opened my eyes up to another way to do business, another idea that could help … They were looking for something to sustain themselves, and it provided really a beacon of hope that the consumer, the consuming seafood public, was interested in and cared about the fishermen, their life and their lifestyle, and their product. They wanted to support it, through the community.” Shortly after the trip, paperwork was drawn up and Walking Fish was born: a collective of commercial fishermen banding together to get their product to consumers in the Research Triangle. A Walking Fish member buys in by the season (about 12 weeks in spring or fall), with several options. They can choose a two pound or four pound share to be picked up in Raleigh or Durham, every week or every other week. What will be in their cooler? Whatever is in season. People seem to enjoy the variety – something different every week – and love the recipes and prep suggestions that accompany each delivery. Debbie Callaway is the director of communications in charge of maintaining an online presence and writing up a newsletter for every week of the season. The newsletter provides customers with information on the seafood being delivered and the fishermen that caught it, along with recipes and prep suggestions. Even the recipes are sourced locally for the most part, like Debbie’s aunt’s recipe for jumpin’ mullet, or her grandmother’s instructions for clam chowder. Walking Fish is going steady, with up to 300 members receiving a little piece of the coast every week during the season (Debbie noted that membership swells in the fall season, which begins Sept. 19). Bill, who in addition to sourcing Walking Fish’s seafood, is now the president of the board, estimated that Walking Fish has probably carried and sold 5-600,000 pounds of seafood since its first delivery in 2009. This model is a win-win – it helps the one-man fishing operations compete by gaining access to a new market, and it gives the customers a traceable source for their seafood. Whether you buy from Walking Fish or Fishtowne, Bill knows the fishermen who bring in their wares, and tries to pay them a little bit above market value. “By using that brand of local people, it sends that message to the consumer … we have really stuck to the fresh, local,” he said. “And traceability, accountability, reliability leads to credibility.” The next time seafood is on the menu, stop for a moment to think about where it came from. If it is locally sourced, chances are that steaming bowl of clam chowder was harvested by a man who spent the four hours of low tide raking in a steady pattern. Those pink shrimp were likely caught by a person whose grandaddy’s daddy’s daddy moved down to the coast and started a family tradition of commercial fishing. Who knows, that perfectly-battered flounder that’s calling your name could have been caught by one of those ninth-generation fishermen, there are quite a few around here. The food on your plate is continuing a grand family tradition of hard, skillful work brought to you by blood, sweat, tears and saltwater. Fishtowne Seafood is open year round, 9-6, Monday-Saturday. For more information on Walking Fish, visit them on the web at www.walking-fish.org. NCCOAST.COM

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nyone who meets Gerardo Rodriguez, owner of Pullmann’s Landscape Associates and the new addition, Seventy West Landscape Supply, can surely tell that he didn’t grow up in Carteret County. But for Rodriguez, it was love at first sight when he arrived on the Crystal Coast. He loved the environment, he loved the people, and he knew this was where he wanted to build a life and carve out his own American Dream. Born and raised in Costa Rica, Gerardo came to the United States at the urging of a local friend, Michael Farrell, who had traveled to Costa Rica to surf. In turn, Gerardo came to the Crystal Coast to visit his buddy and check out the local surf environment and instantly felt at home along our shores. He returned to the United States to attend college in Florida, mowing lawns along the way, like any college student might, to help put himself through school. It was a career choice that stuck with him. It was the Crystal Coast, however, that remained in the forefront of his mind. In 1991 he opened Pullmann’s Landscape Associates – a curious name for a Costa Rican transplant. But Gerardo explains he was having trouble with his American accent during those early years. Some folks would even tease him by calling him Ricky Ricardo, because his accent was so similar to the beloved “I Love Lucy” character. It made him feel that the business name should have a more English ring to it – so, on his late father’s advice, Gerardo opted to use his mother’s maiden name, Pullmann. On Aug. 26, 2016, Gerardo returned to San Jose to marry Andrea, who he has welcomed into the family fold, along with stepson Julian. It has been more than 20 years since Gerardo arrived in the United States. Now a proud United States citizen, he also owns Seventy West Landscape Supply, which offers an array of products for landscapers and homeowners. There were plenty of naysayers at the beginning, he remembers. There were those who said he couldn’t do it. But there were also plenty of people cheering him on. Through it all, he said, he stayed focused and worked to provide the best customer service possible for his client – customer service that would keep his clients coming back for more. And service that allowed him to see his own American Dream come to fruition.

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FOOD

A Tale of two

Eateries

hether summer is in full swing, or the cooler temperatures of fall have crept through North Carolina, it’s always the best of times for the Crystal Coast. Beaufort native and restaurant owner Kyle Swain agrees and finds the positives no matter what the season. Either it’s the heat of summer and his restaurants are packed and bustling, or its fall when things slow down and he and his staff are able to enjoy a more relaxed pace. As any restaurant owner can tell you, it’s hard to appreciate the beauty around you when you’re stuck inside a kitchen or dining room. For Swain, it’s even more difficult – he keeps a foot in two very different eateries, Beaufort’s Blue Moon Bistro and the Full Circle Café in Morehead City. If Blue Moon Bistro is the beautiful and elegant southern debutant, Full Circle Café is her younger, bohemian chic, freespirited sister. Luckily, area tourists and locals have access to both choices no matter what the time of year. Growing up in Beaufort, Swain started working from the ground up at Clawson’s when he was 13, developing a passion for food and cooking that would stick with him. After four years there, he transitioned to a new Mexican restaurant, Papagayo, where he ran the kitchen for three years, mostly during high school and his first year of college, and more restaurants would follow. He spent time at P.T.’s Grille in Wilmington and summer stints at the Coral Bay Club all while earning an undergraduate degree in anthropology/archaeology. He went on to graduate studies at UNC-Chapel Hill, but soon decided it wasn’t for him. Swain spent more than two years working with Gary Win and Harold Tharrington at Savory Fare in Durham then took a job at a new spot outside of Chapel Hill, The Governor’s Club. “It was a great opportunity to be part of an opening crew for a very reputable club,” said Swain. “After about a year and a half, I moved back to Beaufort and with the help of two partners and opened Windansea restaurant on the Morehead City waterfront. I was the chef there for about five years and decided to leave my working position and take a break to find my new path.” To make that path a reality, Swain has surrounded himself with a winning team. “Anthropology is the study of people. In this industry, it is impossible to do it by yourself, therefore it’s all about people,” he

story by Rasonda Clark

said. “You HAVE to have a core crew that shares your vision. The social science studies have helped me manage people, often from various walks of life with different backgrounds. It is imperative everyone works together and that only occurs when there is effective leadership. Anthropology and archaeology has also taught me the importance of details, no matter how small or seemingly insignificant. It’s my hope that careful attention to detail, from the back of the house to the front, is the most important reason we are still in operation.” Growing up in Beaufort he had “the quintessential childhood. So it was a logical progression to open a business that supports friends and neighbors that I have known all my life. My roots are here and plus it’s a great place to live. We have three stoplights here and we like it. It’s safe, secure and a great place to raise kids,” said Swain. Beaufort’s Blue Moon Bistro, which opened in 2002 in the historic Dill House on Queen Street, quickly gathered a following. It is sophisticated, but don’t be intimidated by the fancy vibe. Although there is an exclusive feel it is anything by pretentious. Being located in a coastal town, a casual atmosphere is a must. “We have guests that come in after being on the boat in flip flops and shorts, and guests who come in fully dressed up for a night,” Swain explained, and the Blue Moon team welcomes them all. Nestled off of Front Street, the restaurant beckons its customers whether they are wearing a three-piece suit or board shorts. Blue Moon has the cozy ambience of a home rather than a fancy restaurant. Seating only 50, Blue Moon Bistro offers an intimate and one of a kind dining experience. Guests are greeted with an expansive southern wrap around porch complete with plenty of seating, blue painted ceilings and lantern style lighting. Inside, this classic white beauty is dressed up with chunky cased windows, oak woodwork, wainscoting, and eclectic and classy décor. A charming fireplace sits the in the corner and pressed tin moons and suns can be found throughout. Smells of simmering garlic and fresh seafood waft through the air and are enough to grab the attention of outdoor passersby. Some of the classic items from the Blue Moon Bistro menu are the catch of the day, Carteret County shrimp and grits martini, pork tenderloin and the Angus ribeye steak. While the farm to table trend has picked up major steam in recent years, it’s been at staple at Blue since they opened the doors in 2002. Although it is a small town Beaufort is (Continued on page 64) NCCOAST.COM

(Continued from page 63)

quickly growing and evolving so there is much competition among these small local restaurants. However, Blue Moon Bistro stands out in the crowd. “Our farm to fork mission, the daily prep, our feature changes and variety make us special. Tourists want local flavor and we get the highest quality products and pass that along. We are good, local folks trying to offer a great product and give people a taste of Beaufort,” explained Swain. After nine months of renovation, Full Circle Café opened on Aug. 5, 2015, and features a similar farm-to-table philosophy. “Currently, Jayson Scott is the chef de cuisine at Full Circle and brings talent, skill, and passion to the kitchen – qualities that are essential in my opinion in the service industry,” Swain said. Located on the Morehead City waterfront, it has a totally different vibe – a style all its own. As if he didn’t have enough on his plate, Swain decided to delve into another venture 15 minutes away. To some, Swain may be a glutton for punishment, to others he is living the American dream, doing what he loves. Full Circle’s building is from the 1950s and is full of retro character. Lime green concrete, blue plantation shutters and colorful wildflowers spilling out of planters and pots are sure attention grabbers. Located just steps from the water there is a bit of coastal vibe mixed with an artsy, industrial feel. Inside customers are greeted with a surfboard and walls covered in corrugated metal and raw pallet wood. These natural raw materials combined with vibrant art and exposed ceilings offer a juxtaposition that makes this place feel casually chic and effortlessly cool. “We want the food to be fast and the restaurant to be casual with an emphasis on quality. It has to feel comfortable enough to bring the whole family, but also the perfect place for a date night,” said Swain. In addition to a welcoming atmosphere, diners may notice the distinct wood fire smell that creeps up from the intimate kitchen. The brick oven is where some of the restaurant’s most popular meals are created, including pizzas and daily fish features. The cozy outdoor seating patio is a quaint spot for a romantic date or a girl’s night out. With strings of twinkle lights, hanging lanterns and lattice walls it feels more an intimate dinner on a private backyard deck. For this chef, “every day is like a catered event, it’s a chance to

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

live your passion and practice your craft. It’s an artistry that I get to share,” Swain said. “What I like best about what I do is having the freedom to be creative each day. We are a relatively small operation and that helps to keep the stress to a minimum. And yes, after years in all types of restaurants, being small was by design. It makes the ever-present variables easier to manage. “I was very fortunate to have the opportunity to work with some wonderful chefs,” he continued. “I learned in the trenches with no formal culinary training and draw upon all of my mentors’ talent, skill and work-ethic daily. It’s a labor-intensive business where 60-80 hour work-weeks are not uncommon. It simply takes time to take care of all of the details.” While neither restaurant is large, the eateries are proof that good things come in small packages. And this is exactly how he wants it. “I want to grow a little each year. I want simple … nothing fancy. I want to keep it fun and not overwhelmingly hard to manage.” It seems that Swain and his loyal crew is on the right track with the diverse menu, amazing atmosphere and incredible service. “The food, wine, and service at these restaurants will rival bigger cities. A tremendous amount of skill and experience can be found at both restaurants and that along with our food and recipes are what keep people coming back.” There is little down time, Swain admits, with paperwork, payroll, menu design and research development for two spots leaving barely enough time to even sleep. They sites do close one day per week so everyone can get some rest and Swain said he likes to spend time on the water, whether it’s on a boat, fishing, surfing or simply sitting in a chair – looking through a cookbook, of course. Does he have any advice for future restaurateurs or chefs? “I would highly recommend working in as many as you can, starting from the bottom up. It’s a very dynamic business and requires all parts to be functioning at their best, all the time, in unison. A lot of folks think a two-year degree at a culinary school or hospitality management school is all that’s needed. Those are wonderful things but there’s much more to this business that can only be taught by going through the years of work within the business itself. I would recommend a business degree, coupled with on the job training with great people that have already proven themselves. That’s a good formula.”

IN SEASON

Warm up with

Clam Chowder

Clam chowder is one of those foods that few regions of the country can agree on. Where people do seem to agree, however, is that it is one of the best cold weather options for enjoying the savory local catch.

It’s hard to decipher a concise origin for the dish. Almost as long as there has been seafood, humans have combined it with vegetables and broth to form soups and stews, often to stretch limited resources. Colonial chowders were created by layering ingredients and involved salt pork and fish or clams with a clear broth, not unlike the Down East Clam Chowder enjoyed in Carteret County. Author Jasper White notes in his book “50 Chowders” that the first printed recipe for fish chowder was published on Sept. 23, 1751 in the Boston Evening Post and by 1884, Mrs. D.A. Lincoln included a recipe for clam chowder in the “Boston Cooking School Cook Book.” While parts of the country remained dedicated to the traditional juice broth, others transitioned to milk. But it wasn’t until

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

someone suggested the addition of tomatoes that things really got ugly. Some attribute the addition to Portuguese immigrants who were already creating a variety of tomato based soups, while other reports give Italians credit for adding the color. Regardless of where it hailed, it was widely dismissed by clam chowder purists as nothing less than heresy. In 1939, Assemblyman Cleveland Seeder of Maine even attempted to pass legislation making it illegal to use tomatoes in chowder. He was unsuccessful, of course, and variations of clam chowder continued to grow. Everyone can agree that coastal North Carolina and some northern coastal states lean toward a more traditional clear broth, New England Clam Chowder has a thicker cream-base and what became known as Manhattan Clam Chowder has the much maligned tomato base. But did you know that Long Island Clam Chowder is a blend of both – adding the cream and the tomatoes? Or that in the northwest the pork belly is often replaced with smoked salmon? In the St. Augustine region of Florida chefs have gone one step further, adding Cuban datil peppers for a spicier version of clam chowder.

When it comes to local Down East Clam Chowder we turned to Pam Morris of the Core Sound Waterfowl Museum & Heritage Center and Carteret Catch for insight. Clam Chowder and Oyster Stew, sometimes referred to as Stewed Clams or Stewed Oysters in the Core Sound area is, as a rule, not made with tomatoes, milk or cream and contains simple ingredients traditionally grown and used in the 19th century, said Morris. “I say this because my Grandmama, Florence Paul Davis, always said combining milk with seafood would make you sick and never cooked with it or let us kids eat seafood and drink milk together. I believe this to be a prevalent food myth in those days.” The basic ingredients for Down East Clam Chowder include clams, white potatoes, yellow onions, salt-cured fat meat and corn meal dumplings in a clear broth soup. The key, notes Morris, is locally caught hard clams, the bigger the better as they are a lot easier to clean. She suggests cherrystone or chowder size as opposed to little necks or top necks. The secret to opening fresh clams is to sit them in the freezer until their mouths open slightly, shared Morris, but understand if you do, some of the precious clam juice might escape. When opening the clams (you can use an oyster knife for this,) do it over a bowl to catch all of the juice. Strain the juice to remove any grit. Morris suggests gutting the clams by taking out the dark part (the stomach) to help remove any additional grittiness, then wash them thoroughly before chopping. “Fresh seafood always tastes best and that is what makes great clam chowder,” she added. We couldn’t agree more – especially for those of us who live near the coast. Whether you prefer the localized version or opt for the more widely known New England Clam Chowder – which ties with chicken noodle soup as the most loved soup in America – there is no better way to beat the winter cold. Down East Clam Chowder Ingredients 1/2 bushel of chowder or cherrystone clams, gutted and washed twice, or a half-gallon cleaned clams, reserve juice 5 strips lean bacon or fat meat, notched to the rind so it will lay flat 5 lbs white potatoes, peeled and cubed 2 large yellow onions, chopped 4-5 quarts water Salt & pepper to taste Prepare clams and reserve the juice. Spray the bottom of a 6-8 quart pot with nonstick cooking spray. Fry the fat meat until brown and crispy. Remove and set aside. Add clams, clam juice, potatoes, onions, to pot. Add salt & pepper. Pour water to cover. Crumble and add fat meat. Boil an hour without a lid. Stir to keep potatoes from sticking. Add cornmeal dumplings and boil additional 30 minutes. Dumplings will thicken the chowder.

New England Clam Chowder 2 cups chopped clams, reserved juice 2 cups russet potato, peeled and cubed 3 slices of bacon 1 bay leaf ¼ cup butter 1 finely chopped yellow onion 2 full garlic cloves, minced 1 cup celery, diced 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup milk 1 cup heavy cream 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon pepper 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar Prepare clams and reserve the juice. Cook bacon in a 6-8 quart pot, drain, cool and crumble. Over medium heat, sauté onions and celery with bay leaf, garlic, salt and pepper. Add butter and flour, stir, and slowly add reserved clam juice, cream and milk while whisking. Bring to a boil and bacon and potato, simmering until soft. Use additional milk to adjust thickness as desired. Salt and pepper to taste. Serve with oyster crackers. Manhattan Clam Chowder 2 cups chopped clams, reserve juice 2 cups potato, peeled and diced 3 slices bacon 1 yellow onion, diced 1 cup celery, diced Salt and pepper, to taste 1 bay leaf ½ cup white wine 2 cups low sodium chicken broth 1 - 16 oz can whole tomatoes, with juice Fresh minced parsley, for garnish Prepare clams and reserve the juice. Cook bacon in a 6-8 quart pot, drain, cool and crumble. Sauté onion and celery in the bacon drippings with salt and pepper and bay leaf. Add bacon and wine, reduce until almost dry. Add reserved clam juice, broth and tomatoes with juice, crushing tomatoes in the pot. Simmer 20 minutes. Add potatoes and simmer until tender. Salt and pepper to taste.

Cornmeal Dumplings 1 cup fine ground yellow cornmeal 1 tbsp all purpose flour 1 tsp salt Mix dry ingredients and add 3 tbsp water to start with, blend and add water as needed to make cornmeal stick together. Form 1/4 inch think circles about 3 inches wide and drop in chowder.

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ACCOMMODATIONS

Sugar & Spice C

story by Rasonda Clark

ousins Bed and Breakfast isn’t your typical B&B. Throw out your outdated visions of doilies, floral quilts and knick-knacks galore. Upgrade those images to reflect today’s modern accommodations, the quaint farmhouse feel, luxurious bedding and mouthwatering meals. Now combine those with eclectic décor, a bright red fireplace, a funky tree house and a feisty, yet adorable set of innkeepers and you have Cousins Bed and Breakfast. With Airbnb and VRBO rentals available everywhere, many bed and breakfasts are struggling to keep their doors open. Cousins, however, is a completely different story. While Beaufort is charming enough alone to keep visitors flowing to the Crystal Coast, Cousins has the recipe that keeps their rooms full and guests constantly returning. Their ingredients for the perfect B&B are two cups of uncomprable hospitality, one cup of gourmet breakfast, three tablespoons of historic character and, unbelievably, a dash of hot sauce. Located on historic Turner Street in the heart of downtown Beaufort, Cousins Bed & Breakfast sits off the road trimmed in wildflowers and brimming with character. The two-story white Victorian home with red shutters and a classic red screen door is the perfect mix of eclectic fun. A charming chili pepper sign welcomes guests as they walk the pathway to the sprawling porch, complete with a cozy swing. Inside Innkeepers Elmo and Martha Barnes are bustling around in the kitchen, getting ready for their guests and the busy day that lies ahead. Martha cheerily greets “Good morning! Come in!” while Elmo is busy in his spice shop, which is overflowing with options for home cooks. Walking into this historic bed and breakfast where an inviting couch and a warm, robust cup of coffee is waiting, feels like walking into a friend’s home for a Saturday morning chat. And

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

it should, as Cousins Bed and Breakfast was a family venture that was always meant to feel like a home away from home for visitors. Originally started by Elmo and his cousin, this bed and breakfast is supposed to be more than just a place to stay. Each room has its own story to tell. The Bird Room for example, is a light and airy escape with an island vibe. The rustic beams, high ceilings, beautiful hardwood floors and natural light give the room a fresh and open feel. Across the hallway is the private bathroom that boasts a four-legged vintage soaking tub poured by the Baltimore Foundry in 1827. Natural wood taken from the Trent River in New

Bern is used throughout the upstairs,making the rooms feel like guests are staying inside a ship, without the claustrophobia. Down the hall is the Fish Room, with a charming reading nook and white washed wood planking. At the entrance of the second floor there is an upstairs lounge area with cozy seating and an exposed brick fireplace painted a quirky lime green. It leads to the upstairs porch that is what southern dreams are made of. It is the perfect spot to relax and take in the views of downtown with a glass of sweet iced tea. As guests settle in for the night, Elmo and Martha are busy prepping for the next day. Ensuring that visitors have the creature comforts of home is paramount to the Barnes’. A comfortable bed and a delicious hot meal is at the top of their priorities. “I would lay awake at night trying to figure out what to serve in the morning. Now on the way to kitchen I’ll figure out what to cook,” explains Barnes. All those sleepless nights and years of experience are now to the benefit of Cousins visitors. Chef Elmo’s breakfasts are original, creative and true gourmet feasts. “Elmo knows how to cook and has an imagination, but doesn’t go by an official recipe. He goes by his own recipes and they always change. He’ll cook something really good and I’ll ask him to cook it again and it’s never same,” said Martha as she teases Elmo. Some of his famous dishes include, eggs florentine, cheese scramble, eggs and asparagus, panini potatoes and banana pancakes, which are always a hit with the kids. No Cousins breakfast is complete without their infamous gourmet coffee that has hints of vanilla, caramel and Kahlua. While Martha is a quintessential southern belle, Elmo gets the credit for bringing the heat – literally. At 14, he lied about his age to get a night time job as a short order cook in a truck stop but it was short lived. He went on to do some construction and then enjoyed a lifelong career in engineering, but his passion for cooking was always a part of his life. Even while doing a 13-year run in the Navy, Elmo found himself in the kitchen. When Elmo took over the kitchen at the inn it further developed his love for cooking – a love that ultimately saw him instructing cooking classes, developing spices and creating cookbooks. The secret ingredient in many of Elmo’s tasty breakfasts is his many Satan’s Breath spice creations. His interest in spices began

when he met a 90-year-old woman in the Louisiana Bayou. “Just to smell the spices and the dishes she developed was enough to spark any interest in Cajun cooking and her way of life,” said Elmo. “That smell is still in my house today because the spices are still mixed by hand in my kitchen the same way I was taught.” Elmo’s specially blended spices give a powerful punch to the food he cooks without adding harmful ingredients. Not only are Elmo’s spices flavorful, but they’re healthy as well, containing no MSG, salt or other fillers. “Every time I make another new spice, Martha has to have something cooked with it to give me her opinion. When customers come in I use them for my test kitchen, and listen to their likes and dislikes,” said Elmo. When he retired, Elmo began selling the four basic spices he had been making at home for years. His collection has grown to over 150 custom blended spices, including one he lovingly calls Hot Totty, after Ms. Martha. Satan’s Breath seasonings have become well known, not only in the B&B and Beaufort but around the globe. The small shop mom and pop shop allows visitors to browse and Elmo is always willing to share information about each blend or perhaps a recipe or two. Of course his wonderful cooking can be found at Cousin’s every day. NCCOAST.COM

HISTORY

Ghosts OF THE coast

story and photos by Megan Dohm

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

t was not a dark and stormy night – it was a warm, clear September night off the coast of Ocracoke. There was no moon, but that did not dampen the light in the hearts of the refugees who were so close to their new home. It was the late 1600s, and the people who were anchored off the coast secured passage with privateers to the New World for a fresh start and a safe future. The ship was full of well-off craftsmen, tradesmen and their families who had paid the privateer captain handsomely in advance. The captain began to take special notice of his passenger’s fine silks, their rings and ornate necklaces. A plan began to formulate in his mind, but he let most of the passage go on in peace. When the ship was close to shore on a moonless September evening, he lulled the passengers to sleep with the promise of seeing the New World the next morning. The privateers waited until half the night had passed and then slipped down below, careful not to wake their passengers. One by one, they slit the throats of the people who had sailed across the globe, gathering their spoils. They then coated the deck with oil and set it on fire, leaving the ship to sink while they escaped to shore in their longboat. As the privateers rowed away, the wind came up and filled the sails of the flaming ship and it began to pursue the fleeing criminals. The privateers rowed desperately, trying to escape the ship that was lighting up the night sky. Smoke from the ship filled the privateer’s lungs. Their frantic rowing slowed as they gasped for air, choking on the flames that were meant to destroy any evidence of their crime. The blazing ship caught up with the privateers, and not one of them escaped that night with their lives. They say that if you are out in Ocracoke during a September new moon, you can hear the cries of the drowning privateers and their victims, you can smell the smoke coming up off the water, and sometimes you can even see the ship. Stories like these have long garnered attention. Call them what you like, legends, ghost stories, folklore – they all have the ability

to grab onto our throat and hold it in its grasp until the story is finished. The area surrounding Beaufort certainly has its fair share of these tales; as the third-oldest town in the state it has a rich history swirling with stories that will make a little chill run up your spine. On Shackleford Banks, we have what used to be the community of Diamond City, once a thriving home to 500 whalers, it was swept away slowly by violent storms leaving just a graveyard and, as legend says, very active spirits. In the Langdon House in Beaufort there is said to be the ghost of a young woman named Charity, a heart-broken spirit. She can be seen standing in a pretty blue dress, mourning the loss of the man she loved. Through a twisted series of events, her love accidentally married her twin sister, causing Charity to die of a broken heart. And of course there is the famous story of Capt. Madison Brothers, nicknamed “Mad Brothers” by his crew who were well-acquainted with his legendary temper. Capt. Brothers came home after a long time at sea to find his fiancé hosting a party in the fine house he had bought for them to live in together, as husband and wife. As he looked through the window panes, she was dancing happily with a handsome British officer who was clearly a favorite of hers, and stopped to give him an affectionate kiss on the cheek. With a roar, Mad Brothers charged into the party. He ended up killing the young man in a duel on the staircase. Only after fleeing the scene did Capt. Brothers find out that the young man was his fiancé’s brother, his future brother-in-law. Stories like this abound, and can be found in books, overheard in bars and coffee shops and listened to on tours. Port City Tours, which has been operating for 15 years, was recently taken over by longtime tour guide and storyteller Jonathan Edwards. Since purchasing the business Edwards and his creative director Joey Madia have revamped their ghost tours, making a concerted effort to get back to the town’s historical roots. Every story they tell while walking through the town has a book or a written source behind it. Hearsay tales that have not been directly disproved go into a ‘let’s research’ pile. Legends consistent across several books have a much better chance of making it into the tour. They don’t want to lead anyone on, the blatantly false stories, even ones that most people believe are omitted altogether (sorry, Blackbeard did not actually hang a wife from a tree in town). It can be challenging as stories must be interesting to people of all ages, from grandparents to younger children. About 6,000 take the tours each year, from all walks of life. On a Port City Tour guests are led around the town and regaled by an actor taking on the role of a spirit. During our visit it is Ezekiel Townsend, a whaler from Diamond City, who leads the group. Over the years Edwards has told many stories and played many roles himself; last year his guiding spirit was one of the privateers from the flaming ship, this year it is Benjamin Combs, a Civil War soldier who was the first casualty in the Battle of Fort Macon. Different accents and mannerisms help him shape his characters. As the pirate, his brow furrows and his eyes took on a hardened glint. For Ben Combs, he turns into a mild farm boy with a distinctly Eastern North Carolina twang. While the privateer would not shy away from the murders, Ben Combs would be horrified by them. Storytelling is at the heart of Port City Tours, and it is a skill they are constantly honing along with the content of their tours. Madia explained that each story is like a person, with plain facts making the skeleton and creative details forming the muscles and flesh. So what makes for a winning story?

“As a storyteller, as creative director, I’m looking for compelling characters ... and I think just about all the stories we have now do have some sense of tension,” said Madia. “And then there’s some kind of turn or twist.” One couple in town is very forthcoming about their resident ghost: Meet Martha and Elmo Barnes, longtime residents of Beaufort, and owners of Cousin’s Bed and Breakfast. They bought the house that contains both businesses back in 1988 and before they could even officially move in, they had their first ghost sighting. A cousin saw a man standing in the front window by the stairs. Both Martha and Elmo had been upstairs, and there was no one else in the house. A series of unexplained happenings have been going on ever since – footsteps along the hall without a person there to make them, a man appearing at the end of a bed, and someone walking across the dining room. The figure is always a man, and he is always seen (or heard) exclusively by women. The ghost man has been credited for moving jewelry around, sitting on her beds and even laying down on top of a visitor. “He has never been mischievous,” Elmo said, talking about the ghost the way most people talk about a pet. (Continued on page 76) NCCOAST.COM

(Continued from page 75)

When your hometown graveyard is draped in Spanish moss and known as The Old Burying Ground, you know that fascinating stories are bound to appear, either on the tombstones or in local lore. North Carolina’s most successful privateer Capt. Otway Burns is resting near the fence looking out on Craven Street. There is a common grave for all of the sailors that died of cold the night the Crissy Wright was driven aground during a howling storm. Men, women and children from all walks of life are interred on the grounds. There are pastors, doctors, soldiers (both American and British), sea captains, young mothers and children who were taken away from their families at an early age. Each leaning headstone is a reminder of mortality, and yet during the day the Burying Ground is surprisingly peaceful. Each stone also has a story to tell, a message painstakingly carved, telling us details of life the deceased or their families wanted to make sure folks know for centuries to come. Toward the back left corner of the graveyard there is a stone for a man named Capt. Jacob Shepherd. He came back from an extended shipwreck-induced absence to find his wife married to another man. She had (reasonably) assumed him to be dead, remarried, and had a child. Not wanting to cause trouble, he agreed that Sarah should remain with her new husband Nathaniel Gibbs for as long as they both should live. But after she died, he requested that she be buried next to him. So it is; they are now resting side by side, together in death as they could not be in life. By all accounts, they are very happy to be reunited – no one has ever heard them argue. Just a few graves down from Otway Burns is the little girl buried in a rum keg. According to Edwards it seems like every old southern

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

graveyard has one of these, but she is the real deal. Back in the 1700s, this young girl was always begging her father to take her with him on his merchant trips to London. Once she was 9, she was finally allowed to go. Like any kid, she was excited to take in new experiences and sights. On the trip home, she was suddenly overtaken by an illness and died. Rather than throw her body overboard, her father preserved her in a small rum barrel so that she could be buried near her family in Beaufort. They buried her – rum keg and all – and the children of the town began to leave little presents on her grave. This was common in a time when child mortality rates were high; it helped the children say goodbye to their friends. What was uncommon about this arrangement was that the toys left on her grave began to move. To this day, locals and tourists leave trinkets on and around her grave, and they do still move. The retelling of legends not only helps the people from history live on. “I think it’s a beautiful thing about us,” said Madia back at Port City Tours. He went on to say, “I really think story is our religion. It’s how we really commune, all of us in a really deep way.” “It’s something that we can relate to on a deep level, because we experience pain and grief. That’s what’s real to us, very rarely do we have a life that’s just free of pain, and everything’s going great, things are good; those are dreams,” added Edwards. “But what we live every day is exactly what we say these spirits are going through.” Getting to experience the hardships of a life, to see its ups and downs and mistakes, without it being our life helps put our own experiences into perspective.

he Inn at Pine Knoll Shores is nestled in the middle of Bogue Banks. The Inn has 102 newly renovated guest rooms which all feature fabulous oceanfront views. The Clamdigger Restaurant located on property serves fresh local seafood, as well as, certified Angus Beef. We also feature the Cutty Sark lounge for enjoying your favorite beverage, watching our big screen TV’s, or simply enjoying the scenery.

Hotel Features ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

102 Guest Rooms Every room has an Oceanview Outdoor Pool Hot Tub Beach Service Pool Bar Clamdigger Restaurant Cutty Sark Lounge Bogue Room accommodates 100 people Ocean Room accommodates 120 people Outdoor Oceanfront Lawn area for events Complimentary WiFi

The Inn at Pine Knoll Shores

511 Salter Path Road, Pine Knoll Shores, NC P: 252-247-4155 F: 252-247-2670 info@theinnatpks.com www.theinnatpks.com

Cutty Sark Lounge

RESTAURANT

DJ Weekends & Holidays Daily Drink Specials

RESIDENTIAL & RESORT SALES VACATION RENTALS

Now carrying

$41 Traditional, Nautical and Equestrian Jewelry. Made and designed in our Emerald Isle Store.

Custom Jewelry is our Specialty.

509 Atlantic Beach Causeway, Atlantic Beach 800-317-2866 www.cannongruber.com ATLANTIC BEACH, PINE KNOLL SHORES, EMERALD ISLE, MOREHEAD CITY, NEWPORT, & BEAUFORT

Established 1876

Veranda Square, 7901 Emerald Drive, Suite 6 Emerald Isle, NC 28584 252.354.7166

www.churchwells.com

Barefoot Dreams Inc. was born in 1994 as founder Annette Cook set out to create a line of products embracing her design philosophy and commitment to family. Envisioning a collection that was both elegant and soothing to the senses, Annette sought out the softest flannels, silkiest washable satins and coziest knits in an array of lovely and reassuring colors.

Bedding, Sleepwear, Ponchos, Loungewear, Baby and more!

We Ship

OPEN TUESDAY - SATURDAY

OR BY APPOINTMENT

407-6D ATLANTIC BEACH CAUSEWAY, ATLANTIC BEACH | P: 252.726.1044 | www.edgewaterlinen.com 78

CAROLINA SHORE â&#x20AC;¢ FALL/WINTER 2017

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BOWDEN & CARR F U R N I T U R E

www.bowdenandcarrfurniture.com

Baby

apparel

She’s back!

SOFAS RECLINERS DINING TABLES RUGS ACCENTS LIFT CHAIRS

Monday-Friday: 9-7, Saturday: 9-6, Sunday: Closed 437 Front Street • Beaufort 252.838.0059 • 877.369.4999 Monday–Saturday 10-6 • Sunday 12-5

211 HWY 70 WEST, HAVELOCK, NC | 252.447.3648 www.bowdenandcarrfurniture.com

American-Made Furniture & Accessories!

520 Hedrick Street, Beaufort 252.728.3201 beaufortfurniture.com

113 Turner Street, Beaufort 252.725.3201 beauforthomestore.com NCCOAST.COM

Eat Shop Play in

CELEBRATING 79 YEARS

The Garner Family invites you to come taste what made Carteret County and the Crystal Coast famous; fresh seafood caught by local fishermen. Their mission, passed down from their father and grandfather is simple. Provide the highest quality food available in the cleanest environment possible. The name itself supports their dedication and loyalty to excellence and is the foundation of support for their community and patrons. Enjoy the broad range of ever-changing menu items that are guaranteed to satisfy not only the traditional broiled, grilled & fried seafood lovers, but also cuisine created by Chef James Scott that includes Angus beef, chicken, always homemade chowders and homemade desserts.

Downtown Morehead City is the premier yearround waterfront destination for both residents and visitors known for its vibrant opportunities to live, work, and play.

Upcoming Events: November 25, 2017

Small Business Saturday and Artwalk

December 2, 2017

Christmas in Downtown including Breakfast with Santa, Chowder & Cheer, Community Christmas Tree Lighting, Christmas Flotilla

December 9, 2017

Morehead City Christmas Parade

December 31, 2017

New Year’s Eve Downtown Countdown

May 19 & 20, 2018

Crystal Coast Boat Show

1st & 3rd Friday’s (June-August)

Alive at Five Summer Concert Series

501 EVANS STREET, MOREHEAD CITY, NC

(252) 247-3111

Visit www. downtownmoreheadcity.com for links to the downtown business websites and the most up to date happenings

And Grinders\,,OVEN FINISHED and, OUTDOOR SEATING FULL BAR CATERING DOCKSIDE PICK-UP

Call Ahead for custom deli trays! 501 Evans Street, Morehead City, NC

252-222-0231 CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

1001 Arendell Street, Morehead City, NC 252-808-0440 | downtownmoreheadcity.com

Lisa Rueh, Executive Director Amy Suggs, Assistant Director

f Downtown Morehead City, Inc. i @downtownmhc

Shade & Shutters Since 1998

Sales â&#x20AC;¢ Service

Call Bobby! 252-222-0707 As seen on HGTV www.crystalcoastawnings.com

Like us on:

Live here. Play here. Stay here.

REALTY WORLD FIRST COAST REALTY

Real Estate | Vacation Rentals | Property Management Visit us | ExperienceTheCoastNC.com | 800-972-8899 407 Atlantic Beach Causeway, Atlantic Beach, NC 28512

Your Waterlife Outfitter

Whether you are going fishing, kayaking, boating or just to the beach...we have the gear. Come in and let our waterlife experts get you ready.

5160 Hwy 70 W. Suite 800, Morehead City, 252.240.2909 | 3027 Capital Blvd, Raleigh, 919.871.6384

Visit us online at: www.westmarine.com

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK ! HOME DECOR • COASTAL BEDDING • BATHOOM • KITCHEN • ART • FLAGS GUY HARVEY TEE'S • COASTAL JEWELRY • GINGER SNAPS • LOTTIE DOTTIES MERMAIDS EVERYWHERE • WOMENS AND KIDS • GIFTS FOR BABIES AND KIDS OUTDOOR FURNITURE WITH 20YR WARRANTY • PAINT YOUR OWN BOUYS SUPPLIES

1075 CEDAR POINT BLVD • CEDAR POINT • 252.393.7200 NCCOAST.COM

Ocean & Farm to Fork Creative Cuisine using the Highest Quality Locally Sourced Ingredients Wood-Oven Pizza, Noodle Bowls, Salads, Small plates, & Daily Seafood Features Dinner Monday-Saturday

All ABC Permits, Comprehensive Craft Beer & Wine List

252-773-0703

Cuisine in a Casual, Historic Setting Located in the Historic Dill House

119 Q ueen Street, Beaufort, NC 252.728.5800

www.bluemoonbistro.biz Open for Dinner at 5:00, Monday-Saturday Stop by our cafe on the Morehead City waterfront: Full Circle Cafe: 708 Evans Street

708 Evans St., Morehead City www.albfabrics.com “Because Life is too short to waste on ugly fabric” Like Quilted Butterfly on

Like Quilted Butterfly on

Decorator Fabrics, Inc. “Improving the Fabric of Your Life” 110 Little Nine Rd., Morehead City, 252-222-0787 (1/4 mile west of Lowe’s & Wal-Mart)

CAROLINA SHORE • FALL/WINTER 2017

110 Little Nine Rd., Morehead City 252-222-0787 (1/4 mile west of Lowe’s & Wal-Mart)

Elâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

252.726.3002

DRIVE-IN

3706 Arendell St. Morehead City, NC

Home of the Original Superburger since 1959

Call-In Orders Welcomed! Every Menu Item Prepared to Your Order, When You Order. Please Allow Cooking Time. Hot Dog Cheese Dog Hamburger Cheeseburger SUPERBURGER SUPERCHEESEBURGER Barbecue SUPER BBQ Pizza Burger SUPER PIZZA BURGER

Grilled Cheese Chicken Salad BLT Ham & Cheese w/Lettuce & Tomato Egg Ham, Cheese & Egg Bacon & Egg Western

Shrimp Burger SUPER SHRIMPBURGER Oysterburger SUPER OYSTERBURGER Chick Filet w/ Lettuce & Tomato Steak w/ Lettuce & Tomato Poor Boy Fish Filet Add extras: Cheese, Lettuce,Tomato or Bacon Fresh Fried Chicken Plate (Allow 20 min.) 1/4, 1/2, Whole or Combo plates Chicken Fingers or Nuggets Order of 6, 8 or 10

Featured in: Our State Magazine, Southern Living, the Raleigh News & Observer, and Cooking with Paula Deen

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If there is one thing we’re proud of in Carteret County it is our sentinel businesses that have nurtured our community for generations. Many of our restaurant owners, shopkeepers and service providers are keeping up a tradition – a family tradition carved out by their parents and grandparents before then. Ready to introduce your family business and share your story? There has never been a better way than NCCOAST’s Family Business.

2018 Sales have begun! Now scheduling photo shoots! To Advertise, Call 252-247-7442 Today!

NCCOAST.COM

Largest Waterfront Dining in Town! Our seafood can’t get much fresher than this.

Professional Catering · Executive Chef Offers Limitless Menu Possibilities

· Off-site Catering Available for 300+ Guests

· Complete Restaurant Rental Available up to 250 Guests

Celebrating Over 35 Years! 252-247-2344 718 Atlantic Beach Causeway

· Outdoor Seating for 60+ Guests · Private Indoor Seating for

Open Every Day!

· Formal or Casual Atmosphere

theChannelMarker.com

up to 100 Guests

All ABC Permits

This amazing shot was captured in July 2017 at the 13th Street boat ramp in Morehead City by Daniel Wickberg Runvik, a visitor from Stockholm Sweden. We thank local resident Margaret St. John for sharing it with us.

More THAN A VILLAGE - it’s a lifestyle.

A spectacular location nestled along historic Beaufort’s waterfront. This boaters’ paradise offers guests panoramic views of Shackleford Banks, a glimpse of Carrot Island ponies & amazing sunset views on Taylor’s Creek. Front Street Village provides the lifestyle any boater can enjoy with full dry stack facilities and docking, along with The Chandlery ship’s store - with the coldest beer & finest selection of wine along the Crystal Coast. Treat your guests to the lofty, historic charm of our unique location in The Marlin Room. The Boathouse at Front Street Village provides full on-site catering for your next great event.

Don’t just visit, stay awhile. Front Street Village - a casual walking community - offering a collection of resort cottages and bungalows, creating an elegant and comfortable lifestyle on the Crystal Coast.

Dry Stack | Marina | Ship’s Store | Event Menu | Real Estate

252-838-1524 www.frontstreetvillage.com

BY LAND: 2400 Lennoxville Rd, Beaufort, NC 28516 BY SEA: On Taylor’s Creek next to the new NC Wildlife Ramp

How About Oceanfront?

The Crabs Claw Oceanfront Caribbean Restaurant

The Only Oceanfront Restaurant on the Crystal Coast Fresh Local Seafood & Mouthwatering Steaks Margaritas, Cold Beer, & a Great View Next to the Beach. We are the Main Attraction

crabsclaw.com

252-726-8222

201 West Atlantic Blvd Oceanfront Facility on the Boardwalk in Atlantic Beach

Keep Calm...Fry On! Fresh battered foods from the sea

Burgers â&#x20AC;¢ Sandwiches Local Favorites

7801 Emerald Drive, Emerald Isle |252-424-8203| www.islefryseafood.com NCCOAST.COM

From the Crystal Coast to the World’s Best Beaches Fly EWN!

Book your next vacation at flyEWN.com Close • Convenient • Connected Just off Highway 70 in New Bern

252-638-8591