On the Table

Lamb sliders from The Nosh at Septentrio Winery.

Photo by Jennifer Fumiko Cahill

“It was just a really fun way to try di erent menus,” they say. “I wouldn’t say it was easy but it made me think di erently about how I create food … I’ve never done dim sum and I did a huge dim sum night — I don’t know if it was successful but I did it.”

Part of considering how Kelly runs The Nosh’s kitchen is being up front about it as a queer-owned and queer-run business. “I just like to put it out there that we do our best not only to create a dining experience but also an inclusive space.”

The Nosh’s menu recalls some of the foods Kelly was raised on. “I grew up in L.A. in a very Jewish family. My grandparents came from the East Coast and we had bagel Sundays, matzo ball soup and things.” Their Los Angeles neighborhood had a lot of Armenian and Persian food as well, infl uences that come through in the fl avors of mint and sumac in their dishes. The lamb sliders, for example, are a half beef mixture common in Armenian cooking and have a sa ron aioli and a scallion-mint salsa by chef Joseph Cadorette. The tender meatballs are well spiced against the bright salsa and yield enough juice to make you grateful for the absorbency of the airy, pebble-skinned little rolls on which they’re skewered.

In the specials rotation, there’s a wagyu fl at-iron steak and a prime cut fi let, as well as a family-style whole grilled fi sh with salsa on Thursday nights. A standout among the Bites section of the menu are the bacalao cigarillos, crisp wonton skins rolled around a custardy fi lling of salted cod, potato, cheese and cream. Brunch is in the works for the near future, too, and Kelly is looking at more

Middle Eastern and Spanish dishes, like shakshuka, as well as a dulce de leche and babka French toast. Kelly hopes to broaden a few palates with a fancier presentation of Middle Eastern food, including tangy amba (Larrupin fans, branch out) and herby schug ketchup, maybe sabich, the Persian roasted eggplant sandwiches they recall eating in Israel. Middle Eastern food, they say with a little sigh, is “yummy, comforting food to eat and really great for the summertime.”

Jennifer Fumiko Cahill (she/her) is the arts and features editor at the Journal. Reach her at 442-1400, extension 320, or jennifer@northcoastjournal.com. Follow her on Twitter @JFumikoCahill.

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