The Beaten Path

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The Beaten Path Designed and written by Neil Uhl. Set in Whitney and Ziggurat, two modern classics by Tobias Frere-Jones. Both typefaces are crisp, contemporary adaptations of 19th-century styles. Printed on Fabriano paper. San Francisco, California December 2009


Neil Uhl

The Impacts of Tourism on the Developing World



I can stay on my land with my wife and children, support our family, and help our village. I have

—Anonymous commenter “Going Local” travel blog



He hawks the only thing he owns… He becomes a

—Arundhati Roy The God of Small Things


My interest in tourism comes from personal experience. For the last 15 years I’ve lived in tourist towns—Santa Barbara, San Francisco, Budapest— except for one year when I packed up and traveled around the world, mainly via developing countries. As a frequent tourist, from well-touristed cities, I have been sensitized to the experience of having one’s hometown inundated with tourists. When I travel, I often switch my gaze from tourist to local—an impossible pretence, of course, but a habit nonetheless, trying to discern what it’s like to live in a place, and what it might be like without tourism… in other words, without me there. Tourists can be obnoxious. I know this well. I’ve dealt with them, and I’ve been one of them. I’ve seen what tourism can do to a small town, what it looks like in a major American city, and how it can reinvent a once-crumbling metropolis. I have been frustrated at the lack of hotel rooms in Dakar, Senegal, and been repelled by their abundance in Bangkok. I have been delighted at the genuine hospitality of local residents and dismayed at its corruption into cynicism. I have stood amazed at the tenacious haggling skills of children selling trinkets, and wondered what it means about their life and future. I’ve seen both sides of the tourism dilemma. I’ve been immersed in tourism in many ways, and have not yet resolved the question of whether it does more harm or good. This book is part of my own attempt to reconcile and understand its consequences. —Neil Uhl

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The Beaten Path


The Beaten Path

1 Taking Off

4

Mr. Cook’s Idea

8

Third Place

10

A Question of Development

12

Why Focus on the Developing World?

14

Maslow’s Hierarchy

16

Whose Idea is It?

18

Growing Impact

20 Touching Down

24

Tribal Tourism

29

Bali: A Case Study

31

The Burmese Question

34

Women’s Status

36

Natural Benefits

36 Checking In

40

Off the Beaten Path

47

Sustainable Tourism


Taking


Off

Origins of Tourism


Third world tourism has been set up by foreign image makers, investors and local elites. There has been no participation by, and consultation of, the people of the host country in shaping the phenomenon.� —Twan Huybers

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One may as well begin with the obvious: without tourists, there would be no tourism. The great social exchange that is modern tourism depends entirely on the people who step out of their own homes in order to explore someone else’s. Like the Caribbean islanders who one afternoon discovered Columbus dropping anchor on their shores, ordinary people in the developing world never invited tourists to come to their countries. The tourists decided to visit, curious to discover exotic new lands, and the residents had to deal with it. Today, few societies are unaffected by tourism; even fewer are unaware of it. Many people now actively seek out tourists to visit their countries, in the hope of benefitting from their presence. However, the major decisions about how and where tourism occurs are still made by outside groups: tourists, businesses, and governments. And those who make the rules tend to win the game.

Taking Off

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Mr. Cook’s Idea

The teetotalers were coming to Loughborough. The English town was hosting a meeting of teetotalers— who hoped to prohibit alcohol—in April 1841. Concerned citizens in the nearby city of Liecester were eager to attend but nervous about the eleven-mile journey (a long way in those days). Who knew what hazards they would encounter? Enter an ambitious Baptist minister

encouraged the minister to expand his

named Thomas Cook. With the newly

offerings. For three years he organized

built railroad criss-crossing the English

trips for temperance societies and sunday

countryside, Cook developed a formal

school children to attend meetings of

excursion to the temperance rally. He

moral and spiritual quality.

arranged a special price with the railway company including round-trip tickets and food, and sold the package to over five

Scotland, Europe, the Middle East, and

hundred people.

America. He opened a shop in London

The excursion was organized and

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Cook soon branched out into nonsectarian “Cook’s Tours” to the seaside,

where he sold pre-arranged tours and

promoted as a way for guests—good

individual itineraries, as well as a selection

Christians all—to attend the meeting

of traveling supplies like luggage, shoes,

without fear of meeting any drunks

maps and guidebooks.

or unsavory characters on the way.

Cook’s successful new business

The success of this organized outing

became the standard for modern mass


tourism. It was made possible by new modes of transportation— the early British Rail network being the equivalent of jet liners today—and added to the rail companies’ profits. The tourist industry today is still a “Frankenstein” industry that depends on and mutually supports parts of many industries, from trains and airplanes to hotel construction and food service. Thomas Cook didn’t run a factory, but he launched an industry. He sold convenience and security. He created an experience that brought together existing services into a single easy package. The appeal of Cook’s packaged temperance excursions is the same basic appeal of mass tourism as we know it today: to travel without fear, trusting someone else to provide an experience that is safe and somewhat controlled, free of headaches and stress. Cook allowed ordinary people a way to visit a new place without being bothered by the undesirable parts of it. This is tourism in a nutshell: a pleasantly mediated adventure. The Grand Tour Of course, Thomas Cook didn’t invent the idea of traveling. Our early ancestors were nomadic; our own wanderlust may be an ingrained urge harkening back to our prehistoric

Thomas Cook, Baptist minister and pioneer in mass tourism

roots, wandering the plains in search of food and shelter. In more recent times, religious pilgrimages were one of the first manifestations of tourism as voluntary travel. Every ancient culture from Europe to India has shrines and cities that have received visitors for centuries. In Europe after the Renaissance, the upper classes of England decided that their education wasn’t complete until they had seen the glories of the Continent for themselves.

Taking Off

5


The question is not whether we should travel, but how we should travel. Becoming worldly and well-rounded was a great virtue and point of pride among young men who set off to become “Renaissance Men” in the home of the Renaissance. Their route was well established and still persists today: to Rome and back by way of Paris, Geneva, Milan, and Florence. This motivation is strong: the desire to travel for personal fulfillment ranks up there with pure escapist relaxation. Today, thanks to cheap international flights, we can jaunt off to India to see the Taj Mahal or hike the Great Wall of China—to say nothing of the high-speed trains that run the old Grand Tour route from Paris to Rome in less than a day. The Grand Tour manifests itself in the 21st century as the backpacking trip through Europe, the “gap year” trip around the world, the spiritual retreat to India or Nepal, the road trip to the Rome was the ultimate destination for young Englishmen in the 18th century

tip of South America. The Grand Tour today is global, the checklist longer, and of such a magnitude that an entire library could be filled with books suggesting the “must-see” wonders of the world. But the desire is the same. Curiosity, exploration, and discovery are part of our human nature. A tourist is by definition a consumer—of services, souvenirs, culture. Tourism makes a place into a product, and the tourist industry, governments, and individuals seek to profit from that product. The question before us is not whether we should travel, but how we should travel. If culture becomes a commodity, maintained for consumption as much as participation, it risks becoming merely a manufactured entertainment.

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the Grand Tour.�


Third Place

Back in the Cold War, there were three worlds. First was the “free world,” the democratic West and a few Asian countries like Japan. The second world was the Communist world, which wasn’t quite up to par (although they could still send missiles into space). The third world was the politically unaligned countries, the ones that weren’t important enough to matter. No wonder they objected to the phrase! Today “developing country” is common parlance, but many people still find it objectionable, preferring the neutral “less developed country” or avoiding the distinction altogether. The International Monetary Fund uses three levels: developed, developing, and least developed.

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Developed Countries Developing Countries Least Developed Countries (ldcs)

Taking Off

9


A Question of Development Cultures don’t develop. When we talk about developing a photo or a developing news story, we mean it’s becoming more complete, reaching a final wholeness. Cultures don’t do that. Every culture is what it is, regardless of anybody’s imaginary goals. Some argue that the idea of development itself comes from a linear, Western way of thinking.

On the other hand, all cultures are developing. They are always changing and becoming something new. It’s in the nature of culture to be dynamic, to constantly change and interact with external influences. Just think of Italian food: noodles from China, tomatoes from America, espresso beans from Africa. Cultural mixing produces rich new hybrid forms in new locations, as the people make the influence their own. Most of the time, while it’s happening, there’s no knowing what kind of effect such interactions may have. The risk of tourism isn’t that it will change a culture. For better or worse, change is inevitable. it’s that a culture may stop developing, held in a bubble of a picturesque past, turned into a hollow but profitable performance of itself; or that it will change so radically and quickly with the promise of modernism that it loses its connection to its past, and is no longer the same thing at

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The term “developing country” is essentially economic. all. Change itself is neither good nor bad.

their well and modern tools for their work,

The question is, what kind of change? This

not to mention medicine and education for

is the question everyone faces when they

their families.

participate in tourism. When you travel, you will have an

If such things are so far off the horizon that they’re unimaginable, is the country

impact on the people you meet. In a

really “developing”? Is it growing and

highly touristed place, you will either

changing, or is it simply not developed?

reinforce or counteract the actions of the

And if it’s not, who is assuming that it

tourist mass. In a more remote place, you

should be? Some of the oldest cities in the

are a leaf floating on the surface of a still

world are still considered “developing”—

pond, sending out endless ripples around

so what exactly does developing mean?

yourself for as long as you’re there.

The United Nations doesn’t recognize any distinction between developed

Developing countries

and developing, but the International

As you might expect, the idea of the

Monetary Fund does. This is revealing: the

developing world itself is controversial, as

term “developing country” is essentially

it implies that developed countries are

economic. The idea of development is all

somehow better (or at least better off)

about money.

than developing ones. Many people in developing countries are perfectly content with their life as it

So why limit our concept to a disparity of wealth? After all, tourism has many of the same effects anywhere. Tourism will

is, and feel no need to pursue a modern

bring money and social change, no matter

Western standard of wealth. In fact, they

what. Culture becomes commodified,

might even resist it as being as idea from

new economies arise, traditions adapt to

a foreign, materialistic society. Others see

the new reality. It doesn’t matter who is

the benefit to having a motorized pump for

traveling where.

Taking Off

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Why Focus on the Developing World? If the impact of tourism works the same way for an American in Paris as for an Indian in Kenya, why are we so concerned with tourism in the developing world? Three reasons… Tourism is new Tourism between developed countries has been going on for a lot longer than tourism to the developing world. Paris and Rome have been receiving tourists since at least the rise of the “Grand Tour.” Tourism is a known quantity there, a given, already woven deeply into the reality of life in those cities. If we’re concerned about how tourism may change a place, those places are already changed. They are still changing, as tourism increases and threatens to overrun certain cities or neighborhoods completely, but for the most part, where tourism is already established, its impact has already been felt. In a sense, what’s done is done. We can count on tourist Paris being basically the same in 100 years, as it was 100 years ago. Tourist Marrakesh, on the other hand, is changing rapidly and will be quite a different place as its tourist industry really takes root. In the developing world, tourism is a fairly new phenomenon. It’s still in its formative stages; it’s less established and still finding its role in the culture. Nobody knows from place to place what form it will finally take or what effects it will have. This unknown quality presents us with a choice and a challenge that’s not present on the beaten path of Europe and North America. We can actually see the changes happening, if we pay attention—and we can decide what to do based on that. Whatever damage comes from tourism has not yet been done, and the rewards have not been reaped. The balance remains to be seen.

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The developing world has more to lose, and more to gain, from tourism. Tourism is an industry

Developing counties are vulnerable

By some estimates, tourism will be the world’s

The very nature of developing countries is that their

largest industry in 2020. Like many industries, it

economic base is weak. They don’t have much of a

has globalized. International travel is much easier

foundation. As a rowboat is much easier to tip over

and more popular than it was a generation ago. This

than a cruise ship, developing countries feel the

has set up new relationships between places that

effects of tourism—good and bad—much more

previously had no connection to each other.

acutely than countries with many other industries

These relationships are neither accidental nor simple. As an industry, tourism is promoted and

already established. The developing world has more to lose, and

supported by businesses and governments. Their

potentially more to gain, from the onset of tourism.

interests lie more with the tourists than with the local

Already, developing countries are more likely to be

people, since that’s where the money is coming from.

economically dependent on tourism as a source of

The contact between tourists and locals is mediated

income. This is sometimes by coincidence or luck;

by these interests. When a national government

more often it’s the result of deliberate efforts on

promotes itself as a tourist destination, it does so

the part of local governments and international

without the input or consent of the people who will be

companies. The promise is so great that a country

affected by it.

will place all its bets on tourism, considering only the

Everyone needs money to survive. When comparatively wealthy people (as they must be to take such trips) visit poorer countries, the local residents don’t necessarily have the option of avoiding or ignoring the tourists: they need the money. The tourist made the decision from a position of

potential economic gain without thought to the less tangible cultural impacts. For the tourist on vacation, with leisure time and open horizons to explore, it’s easy to assume the same freedom exists for everyone. The people in a developing country may find themselves pushed into a

complete freedom to relax and seek entertainment in

life in the tourist industry because they have no other

this destination. The locals receiving the tourists into

options, and they will have to adapt to that—whether

their hometowns don’t have such a choice.

it’s their preference not.

Taking Off

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Maslow’s Hierarchy

Psychologist Abraham Maslow described human potential in a hierarchy of essential needs.

Once the basic needs are met, a person can fulfill the more complex needs. The imbalance between residents of a developing country and tourists with the luxury to travel can be understood in light of Maslow’s hierarchy. Most international tourists have freedom of movement, disposable income, and are seeking to fulfill their needs of self-actualization. The people they are interacting with may be concerned more with physiological, security, and social needs. The tourist is thus in a position of power over the local resident.

Physiological needs Food, sleep, sex. These are necessary for physical survival. Many developing world residents are at this level

Security needs Health, housing, security. These are the essential comforts.

Social needs Friendship, family, love. These are the basic psychological needs. Most international tourists are at this level

Esteem needs Respect, admiration. These give a sense of value and importance.

Self-actualization needs Ambition and dreams. These allow us to become more than we are.

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Unemployment and poverty are rife. Parents have been driven by poverty to overlook crime and abuse against their children by tourists.� —Maureen Seneviratne Protecting Environment and Children Everywhere (peace), Sri Lanka


Whose Idea is It?

Forty years ago, the tip of Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula was home to a tiny Mayan village and coconut plantation. About 100 residents worked the dry land and pulled fish from the Caribbean. Surrounded by sand dunes and marshes, it was truly a backwater. In Mexico City, officials at the Banco de

increasingly, hotels. Cancun attracts 3.4

México were hard at work researching

million tourists every year, and another 3

locations for new tourist development.

million visit from cruise ships

The Mexican government recognized the importance of tourism in the country’s

The Tourist Industry

economy. They needed a location with

Tourism is not just something that tourists

all the ingredients of the classic holiday

do. Tourism is a strategic system, a

resort: sun, sand, and sea. They found

machine, that all tourists participate in

the perfect combination in the sparsely

when they travel.

populated Mayan country of the Yucatan. The first hotels at Cancun were built in 1970. There was no infrastructure; not even

and governments. Tourism products from

roads. Today there are 25,000 hotel rooms,

mountain treks to red-light districts are

and almost 1,000 restaurants, bars and

invented, manufactured and sold. Airports

clubs in the “Hotel Zone.” Cancun is the

and hotels are built in strategic locations

hub of what is billed as the Riviera Maya,

according to national development plans.

a hundred miles of coastline dotted with fishing villages, coconut plantations, and

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The industrial machinations of tourism are created and regulated by companies

As the demand seems inexhaustible, developing countries now treat tourism


as an easy shortcut to development and wealth. With no real industry, it’s a way to

India

Thailand

Caribbean

African ldcs

40%

70%

80%

85%

make the most of what you have. Tourism’s potential to lessen poverty is the main benefit that recommends it to developing countries. Any cultural changes, educational opportunities, or international understanding are cited as secondary to its power as a source of income and poverty reduction. Leakage Even if one accepts this value structure

Trickle-down or leakage?

(and it’s not clear that one should), for many developing countries, the desired

Some countries make efforts to reduce

benefits of a tourism industry are

leakage by limiting how much of the

undermined by financial “leakage.”

tourist industry can be owned by foreign

Leakage occurs when foreign investors

investors. Thailand currently prohibits

and companies take most of the profits,

any foreign investor from owning more

removing them from the local economy.

than half of any Thai tourism business.

Money that does stay in the country often

Nevertheless, Thailand loses 70% of its

goes to the political elite and stays there.

tourist income to leakage.

The amount of money spent on importing

Because of leakage to foreign countries, some regions never see the economic benefits that could come from tourism

According to Nirit Ben-Ari of the

goods and services to support the industry

Global Policy Forum, “without strong links

also limits the economic benefits that

with the local population, tourism typically

reach the local population.

contributes little to poverty reduction.”

Taking Off

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Growing Impact 800,000

International arrivals per year

700,000

600,000

500,000

400,000

300,000

200,000

100,000

1965

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1970

1975

1980


94%

increase since 1990

45%

Developing world

55%

Developed world

39%

increase since 1990

1985

1990

1995

2000

2005

International tourism has been growing steadily for decades, most dramatically in the developing world. Developing countries now receive almost half of all international tourists. In 1973, developing countries’ share of international arrivals was only 20%. By 2000, the crowds had more than doubled. The urgency to understand and possibly alter the effects tourism will have is much greater in the developing world. As the rate of tourist expansion is so much greater, the impacts of tourism will be felt much more strongly there than in developed countries.

Taking Off

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Touching


Down

What Tourism Is


There is rarely an acknowledgement of indigenous people’s struggle for

cultural survival, self-determination, freedom of cultural expression, rights to ancestral lands, and control over land use and resource management.� —Ole Kamuaro


Some people call tourism an “industry without smokestacks.� It is promoted as a way for poor countries to develop and modernize without the negative side effects of traditional heavy industry. The promise of tourism is that it allows communities to support themselves in ways that were impossible before. Countries without natural resources and an industrial base can turn their intangible resources like traditional culture and dramatic scenery into a viable source of income. This is an idealized dream. Tourism does have smokestacks, both literal and invisible—like any industry, it pollutes and damages the same resources it exploits. Tourism brings many benefits, but it also has costs.

Touching Down

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Tribal tourism

Minority groups in developing countries are targeted by the tourist industry and exploited by governments looking for tourist profits. The benefit to the people is difficult to discern. Sometimes the tribes are actively involved

unusual customs, and catch a glimpse of

in the development of their villages for

their way of life.

tourism. More often, the tourist ministry

Kayan and Paduang women are known

of the national government selects a

for the brass rings they wear around their

region that is ripe for tourism and begins

necks. Every year they add another ring,

promoting it on the international market.

stacking them higher so their necks appear

Tour companies, airlines, and hotels

elongated. Promoted as the “Long Necks,”

attract tourists to this newly revealed

these tribes’ villages have become a major

corner of the world. With the influx of

destination on the Thai tourist circuit.

tourism, tribes will see some benefits in

Some critics argue that the custom has

infrastructure, but little direct impact on

become distorted and exploited by tourism

their income or well-being.

as bus loads are encouraged to come and look at the women, take pictures and leave

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Thailand

without giving any benefits to the women

In northern Thailand, there are six major

or their communities. This is largely true,

ethnic minorities known as “hill tribes.”

since the tourists’ money goes to the tour

Many tribes have traditional practices

companies and not to the people. Most of

that are exotic and colorful, making them

the hill tribes still work as farmers.

a lucrative tourist attraction. They have

In one “hill tribe” village, research

maintained their distinctive cultures and

found that the impacts of tourism are not

tourists trek to their villages to admire their

as deeply felt as outsiders may think.


Poor residents don’t often have the right to refuse tourism. An economic survey revealed that

Tourism lets women continue these

only 18 of the 120 households in the village

activities of everyday life, but with the

made more than half of their income from

chance of earning money at the same

tourism. For the village as a whole, tourism

time—provided they don’t mind being

contributed an average of only 25% of total

photographed and treated as a specimen in

income. Most of that income came from

a kind of “human zoo.”

men hired by the tour companies to drive tourist buses. One third of village households did not

Poor residents of developing countries don’t often have the right to refuse tourism. Many of the hill tribes are refugees

earn any money from tourism. The most

from neighboring countries, further

important source of income in the village

diminishing their rights. A cultural museum

came from agriculture.

set up by Burmese Kayan refugees in

Villagers explained that those who

northern Thailand was forced to close

adopted tourism needed to have the spare

in 2008 and the women running it were

time to attend market stalls, and also

forced to move to a local “tourist village.”

needed the cash to buy souvenirs to resell.

The museum was an attempt to benefit

Many villagers did not have time for

more directly from visitors to the three

tourist work because they were too busy in

Kayan tourist villages, which are tightly

their fields. Usually, the people who looked

controlled by Thai business interests. It

after the stalls were elderly women too old

would have allowed visitors to learn about

to work in the fields, or young mothers who

Kayan culture and history and to have a

were busy with their children.

more equal exchange with the community.

Before the arrival of tourism, many

The indigenous hill tribes who seem untouched by the modern world are often political refugees from nearby countries such as Burma.

The museum was reportedly ordered

of these women stayed at home all

to close by other Burmese community

day looking after children, cooking and

leaders under pressure from the tourist

embroidering clothes.

village business interests.

Touching Down

25


“A Masai is good for a tourist’s photograph…

Denied freedom of movement and the

cats have flourished, and often prey on the

right to operate their own businesses, the

Masai’s cattle. It is illegal for the Masai to

Kayan have little choice but to remain in

kill a lion to protect their herd.

the villages. As hundreds of other Burmese

Restricted from their ancestral land

refugees have already left for other

and forbidden to protect their livestock,

countries, many Kayan believe that their

many Masai no longer find cattle a viable

applications are being delayed because

source of income and have turned to the

they are a valuable tourism asset.

steady flow of tourists for jobs. With their bright red tunics, colorful jewelry, and

East Africa

shaved heads, the Masai have become the

The Serengeti plain, on the border of

human element of the safari experience.

Kenya and Tanzania, is ground zero for

They are stationed at the entrances of

East Africa’s lucrative safari business.

grand hotels for a touch of “authentic”

The Masai people, a traditionally nomadic

regional flavor. They fulfill the tourist’s

society of cattle herders and hunters on

desire to encounter the exotic African.

the Serengeti, are residents of the Masai

They are treated as another item in the

Mara Game Reserve, a Kenyan national

safari trade.

park that overlaps their hunting grounds. The park is one of the biggest draws in African tourism, protecting lions, leopards,

the camp, or even to guide you to see the

giraffes, and other exotic animals. With

animals,” said Moringe Ole Parkipuny,

the creation of the Game Reserve, the

the first Masai in Tanzania’s parliament.

Masai were restricted from much of the

“But in the end the animals are far more

former grazing land, since the land was

valuable than people.”

set aside exclusively for wild animals and safari tours—not for the residents. The big

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“A Masai is good for a tourist’s photograph, useful to carry your bags to

In a few cases the Masai have become true partners in the tourist trade, rather


but animals are more valuable than people.”

than another species in the safari. Campi ya Kanzi is a ranch turned hotel, built under the direction of foreign investors but owned and run by the Masai people. While it departs from the traditional Masai way of life, the Masai agreed to

$550

room night at Campi ya Kanzi

establish the hotel as a way to improve their lives. Profits from the hotel are channeled back into the Masai who operate it and live in the village or on the grounds. First, the money is used

$30

$215

annual income in Kenya

to compensate the Masai who have lost livestock to wildlife from the Game Reserve. The rest is spent on community projects focusing on: •

Education, through scholarships and grants to those who are too poor to afford schooling. The funds also pay for school supplies and help pay teachers’ salaries.

Health, by providing basic medical facilities and medicines.

Infrastructure, such as school rooms,

What’s it worth to you?

For each guest at Campi ya Kanzi, $30 per night is set aside for the Masai. (The nightly rate $550.) The cynical will note that $30 out of $550 isn’t a lot. Tourists spending thousands of dollars to vacation in Africa are only applying a band-aid with a $30 allowance to their hosts. This may be true. But is it relevant? Thirty dollars is still a lot to the Masai. In a single day, a tourist can provide 14% of an average Kenyan income.

toilets, and pharmacies.

Touching Down

27


Bali Tourism in Bali has largely been planned

Balinese people is that it made them

in Jakarta) and by foreigners. Few Balinese

self-consciously aware of their unique

have been involved in its planning and

“Balinese-ness.” Anthropologist Michel

management. Instead, they have become

Picard explains, “the focus on ‘cultural’

the tourist attraction.

tourism convinced the Balinese people that

The Balinese had very little role in

and perishable that they perceive as a

the tourist destination it is today. Some

capital to be exploited and as a heritage to

Balinese are now trying to make tourism a

be protected.”

The Village Ecotourism Network

The Beaten Path

In the grips of this dilemma, Balinese culture often becomes a self-conscious

was founded in 2002 in response to

performance and loses its meaning. The

international and government-sponsored

sacredness of many rituals are abused

resorts. It was designed and is owned by

for the consumption of tourists. Religious

the communities of four Balinese villages.

festivals are made more ostentatious

Inviting tourists to their villages is not

specifically to impress outsiders. Buildings

only a way to raise their standard of living,

created for tourists often ignore the

but also to increase their own community’s

Balinese philosophies that guide traditional

appreciation for their natural and cultural

architecture and planning.

heritage. The Village Ecotourism Network

28

they have a ‘culture,’ something precious

the transformation of their island into

positive force in their communities.

The performance of cultural practices as tourist s has been called “staged authenticity.”

The main effect of tourism on the

by the Indonesian government (far away

The paradox of Balinese tourism is that

also embodies a political statement that

as a means of modernization, it depends

the people of Bali want to decide for

on traditional culture. The Balinese

themselves the future of their culture and

must maintain their traditions in order to

their environment.

modernize via tourism.


Touching Down

29


West Bali National Park The entire peninsula of West Bali National Park has been set aside as a nature reserve to provide an ecotourist experience. Tourism has discouraged wildlife poaching and illegal logging, but has also seen the government build resorts and roads through virgin forest and coastal areas.

Despite the fact that most of Bali’s population lives far from the tourist center of Kuta and does not work in tourism, the industry is so lucrative it provides 80% of the island’s income. However, the Balinese remain mired in poverty, since most residents never see much of the tourist money. The profits end up going to the Indonesian government or to private companies and investors from other countries.

40%

tourism

$7.1

80%

all of Indonesia

tourism

50%

$2.5 Bali

agriculture

Employment

Water consumed by a village of 1,000

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$0.5 stays in Bali

15% agriculture

Income Source

Water consumed by a single golf course

Income from Tourism ($ billions)


Pelaga This member of the Village Ecotourism Network is owned and managed by Balinese villagers. Pelaga is an agricultural community on a coffee plantation. Without becoming a tourist village, the farmers supplement their everyday income by promoting tourism.

Two tourist bars were bombed in Kuta by Islamic extremists in 2002. They deliberately targeted the bars as symbols and outposts of Western culture. The tourists were innocent victims, but to the bombers, it was a political act. Tourism is inherently political in that it expresses the balance of power between cultures. Sexual exploitation and trafficking of children are growing problems in Bali. Young sex workers are common in the streets, bars and hotels of Kuta and other tourist areas. International child traffickers prey on poor, uneducated children without job opportunities, to meet the demand of pedophiles and sex tourists. Kuta

Nusa Dua

Pristine coral reefs were dredged up to harvest limestone for hotel construction in Candidasa. With the barrier reefs gone, the sandy beach began to wash away. The resorts responded by building a series of concrete breakwaters criss-crossing the beach. Candidasa

Nusa Cenigan The residents of Nusa Cenigan organized to prevent major resort developments being built on their island. However, tourism offered a way to boost their meager seaweed-farming economy, using their only other natural asset, the island itself. They now welcome tourists under their own development terms.

A golf resort like Nusa Dua uses as much water per year as 60,000 rural villagers. In times of drought, rural wells often dry up, as most of Bali’s water is diverted to irrigate golf courses.

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32

The Beaten Path


The Burmese Question

Burmese pro-democracy leader Aung San Suu Kyi has been under house arrest for 14 of the last 20 years. In 2003, over 100 of her supporters were killed in a government crackdown on dissent. She sees tourism as a political and economic force for change. Suu Kyi has called for tourists to boycott travel to Burma, saying that tourism to Burma condones and supports the oppressive regime far more than it helps the local people. Others believe that traveling to Burma has a positive impact, not only in putting money in the hands of the impoverished population, but also by exposing them to the outside world and reducing the isolation imposed on them by the state. The Burmese government actively uses tourism as a source of income. The total

Aung San Suu Kyi is convinced of the power of tourism to change her country’s government.

income from tourism is relatively small. Burma, also known as Myanmar, is not a major tourist destination, although this helps to give it the exotic sheen of an “undiscovered� destination for adventurous travelers. The dilemma of whether one ought to travel there exposes a major question of how tourism impacts a country: is tourism a diplomatic effort to bring people of the world together, or is it a centralized industry that enriches those with power to decide the fate of others? The Shan Women Action Network (swan), a Thai organization devoted to the rights of Burmese women, released a guidebook in November 2009 called Forbidden Glimpses

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33


of Shan State. It gives potential tourists

to wage resistance against the regime”

ethnic minority Burma.

and that “troops are licensed to arrest,

By exposing the deliberate neglect, destruction and reinvention of cultural and historical sites in Shan State, swan reveals the real meanings concealed behind the tourist experience. Tourism in Burma is tightly controlled

from British domination. The Burmese promptly imprisoned the entire Shan royal family. Since that time, the Burmese government has undertaken a project of

only through special arrangements

destroying Shan’s physical heritage, under

through official tour agencies. In Shan

the auspices of tourism and development.

three areas. Shan State is in the midst of an

The Myanmar Ministry of Hotels and Tourism demolished the historic royal

ongoing civil rebellion by the local people,

palace in 1991 and built a Modernist hotel

making it both unsafe for tourists and

on the site. The rubble of the former palace

highly undesirable for the government to

was strewn over the city streets, to be

allow outsiders to witnesses the violence

trampled underfoot.

and its causes. number of things that the junta does not

The Beaten Path

Shan State had its own native rulers until 1962, when it joined Burma to escape

by the government. Many locations are

The “forbidden” guidebook lists a

34

torture, rape and kill villagers suspected of supporting the resistance.”

strictly off-limits and others are accessible

State, tourists are allowed to visit only Shan, in northern Burma, is home to the same “hill tribes” of Thailand examined on page 24. It is also a neighbor of Yunnan province in China, discussed on page 35.

that “various ethnic groups continue

an enlightening perspective on life as an

“We have not only been robbed of our rights, lands and resources but the regime is also robbing us of our culture and

want tourists to see, including “over 150

history,” says swan spokesperson Moan

Burmese infantry battalions … confiscation

Kaein. “We want visitors to open their eyes

of farms, extortion and taxing villagers,

to the repression going on around them,

and requisitioning free labour.” They reveal

even in the cultural sites they are visiting.”


Tourism in Burma is tightly controlled by the government. The Burmese government continues

Despite the efforts of groups like swan

to use tourism as a means of establishing

to expose the political reality of Burma,

their historical revision. Projects of

some 750,000 curious tourists continue to

beautification, restoration, and the

visit the country per year, lured by tropical

outright construction of new landmark

beaches, golden temples, and the very

sights in national Burmese style, establish

isolation the government has imposed.

Burmese authority over Shan State and

The general oppression of the Burmese

reinforce the image of a unified Burmese

people is well known and most Western

culture to the world.

tourists consider the ethical side of their

Many old Shan palaces lie just off the

trip. They reason that their presence will

main tourist road but are unmarked and

expand the Burmese people’s knowledge

unpromoted. The few palaces that have

of the outside world and make them

been restored and maintained for tourism

hungrier for political change. By carefully

are now “cultural museums” celebrating

using only locally-owned services, tourists

Burmese achievements, with no mention

contribute to the opening of Burma’s

of their former use as Shan residences.

economy, which also prompts reform.

Ironically, the Burmese government points to these restored buildings as

Even Suu Kyi has softened her stance against tourism, seeing that years of

evidence of their respect for their national

boycott have done nothing to weaken

heritage, when they were abandoned in

the junta. She now supports responsible

the first place because the government

tourism that brings the benefits of

evicted their occupants. Some villages

exposure, awareness, and commerce, but

have been wholly evacuated and their

still diligently boycotts state and military-

temples left derelict, eventually to be

run companies.

replaced by pro-Burmese monuments added to the authorized tourist route.

Many of Burma’s new tourist structures are built using forced labor by members of minority tribes.

Whether that balance is possible to achieve remains unclear.

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35


Women’s Status

Tourism gives women the chance to earn wages, bringing money for their family and village, and increasing their status in the social hierarchy. However, the income women earn is often

says Juana Camargo, unifem Coordinator

found in jobs that are extensions of their

in Panama.

traditional roles: making clothing, cooking in restaurants, cleaning homes or hotel rooms. In this way tourism perpetuates

attain positions of leadership in their

women’s typical status as home-makers

communities, it often provides them with

and care-takers.

greater economic independence.

The un Development Fund for Women

The Beaten Path

How much money women actually

says that “women who work in tourism

keep from their work is another question

in Central America have gained a greater

altogether. Women in certain societies

level of autonomy in terms of their right

may enjoy benefits from tourism, while

to make family and economic decisions.

others do not. Cultural factors affecting a

However, the quality of the jobs available

woman’s general status will still determine

to women in this industry remains low.”

how empowered she may become.

The question of the quality of jobs is

36

While the introduction of tourism rarely changes social roles or helps women

According to minority women in

asked from a position of luxury: “In one

China’s Yunnan province, bordering the

tourist resort… the women workers are

adventure destinations of Burma and Laos,

peasants who have never had a paid job

the impacts of tourism on their community

or a bank account. Through this work they

have been mixed. Some appreciate the

are able to provide for their families, and

contact with the outside world, but others

as a result, their self esteem improves,”

worry about their children’s future.


Women in Yunnan province, China, describe the changes tourism has brought to their villages.

Economic Increased income

Higher prices

Improved standard of living

Increased cost of living

Jobs for unskilled women

Most profits go to outsiders

Cultural Learn about the outside world

Falling in love with outsiders hurts family

Culture is protected

Culture is distorted

People are more open-minded

Increase in crime and prostitution

Less heavy farm work

Less time to raise children properly

Environmental Improved houses and infrastructure

Noise pollution

Better quality vegetables available

Water pollution

More trash

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Natural Benefits

Land and animals that were considered useless can become essential to tourism. Natural bounty itself can benefit a country. Because of their attractiveness, pristine natural sites are identified as valuable and the need to keep the attraction alive can lead to creation of national parks and wildlife preserves.

38

The Beaten Path

Costa Rica Beginning in 1962, Costa Rica has set aside a full quarter of its land in national parks. The country has been able to develop a solid ecotourism industry and capitalize on its natural resources. Through tourist revenue and its reputation for responsible development, Costa Rica has become the most stable, peaceful, and wealthy country in Central America.


East Africa

Indonesia

In the Great Lakes region of Africa, endangered mountain gorillas

Indonesia’s forests are threatened by

play a critical ecological, economic and political role. Their

logging and the fast, easy money available

habitat lies on the borders of Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of

from animal poaching. The Orangutan

Congo and Uganda. The UN established the Great Apes Survival

Viewing Center in Bohorok, Sumatra was

Partnership to protect the apes by improving the well-being of the

established to protect orangutans and

countries in which they live. Despite ten years of political crisis

preserve their tropical rainforest habitat.

and civil war in the region, the need for revenue from ape-related

While tourists learn about the jungle

tourism has led all sides in the conflict to cooperate in protecting

ecosystem, tourism also provides a major

the apes and their habitat.

source of income for the local population and land owners, making it a genuine alternative to the timber industry and the exploitation of wildlife.

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39


Checking


In

What Tourism Can Be


The understanding and promotion of the ethical values common to humanity, with an attitude of tolerance and respect for the diversity of religious, philosophical and moral beliefs, are both the foundation and the consequence of responsible tourism.� —UN World Tourism Organization Global Code of Ethics for Tourism


Green is the color of our era. We have been introduced to green cars, green buildings, green energy, green products of every variety. In keeping with the spirit of the times, there is also a spectrum of tourist options that all claim the badge of “green.” Green tourism is an important concept, given the pace at which tourism is growing. Whatever environmental impact it has will be multiplied as tourism increases. However, the complex moral calculus of carbon footprints misses a major part of the equation, since it only deals with the natural world. Truly green tourism must expand its horizons to include its human impact as well. How does tourism affect the places it touches—not the physical or ecological place, but the cultural place? How does it affect people and the way they live? In order for tourism to be green, it must preserve and renew what it consumes: namely, culture.

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43


Off the Beaten Path

Many of the things that make tourism more green are small. Many American hotels only launder sheets and towels by request, in an effort to conserve water. Some airlines now offer “carbon offset” payments on long flights, using the extra fee to support environmental groups. This is the simplest form of green tourism.

preserved at all costs? Are some things

The traveler’s motto, “take only photos,

better if they change? How you answer

leave only footprints” sums up the do-no-

the questions reveals your priorities and

harm attitude of basic green tourism.

provides a guide to how you can make your

This is the same “green” concept of recycling and carpooling, applied to Selling a destructive nature-based product as a real ecological alternative is known as “greenwashing.”

The Beaten Path

For some people, the survival of

tourism. It deals with green issues in the

humanity depends on the health of the

way we’re used to thinking of them: how do

Earth, so clearly ecological issues should

my actions affect the natural environment?

be primary. For others, to address an

How can I continue to do the same things,

actual person’s immediate problems is the

but do them more greenishly, in a way that

highest responsibility. Should we be more

doesn’t hurt the environment as much?

concerned with the health of a forest, a

When you expand this way of

society, or an individual? There are things

thinking to the cultural world of human

tourists can do to engage with any of these

societies—as we have seen in the

issues, depending on their priorities.

preceding pages—the questions multiply

44

own traveling habits more sustainable.

There is much debate on what the

and the answers become complex,

different forms of alternative tourism really

even contradictory. Should a culture be

mean and how they actually differ. They


share many goals, to be sure, and their

education and interpretation of the

methods at achieving them often overlap.

natural environment and is managed to

All of them have the potential to reverse

be ecologically sustainable.”

the negative impacts of traditional mass

Ecotourism is explicitly concerned

tourism. The main distinctions lie in their

with the natural environment and its

motivations, and the particular issues they

preservation. It attends to the natural

make primary.

world first and human needs second, or by extension. Indeed, many ecotourism

Ecotourism

destinations are remote and sparsely

Ecotourism was one of the first alternatives

populated, so the impact on local culture,

to mass tourism to emerge in the 1980s. It

positive and negative, will be minimal.

was pioneered by people who wanted to

There are many paradoxes within

get away from the overdeveloped resorts

ecotourism. For example, international

sold by the package tour agencies.

flights are not very fuel-efficient. Tropical

As a reaction to the large-scale

island nations like the Maldives find

building projects of places like Cancun

themselves threatened by rising sea levels

and Mediterranean Spain, ecotourism

while simultaneously dependent on the

has a strong “back to nature” tendency.

polluting airplanes that bring tourists. Not

The International Ecotourism Society

traveling at all could be the best decision

defines ecotourism as “responsible

for an environmentally conscious person.

travel to natural areas that conserves the

Since ecotourism emphasizes visiting

environment and improves the welfare of

unspoiled natural destinations, it also

local people.”

contains the paradox of encouraging

The Australian Commission on

For examples of how ecotourism can be a force for positive change, see “Natural Benefits” on page 36.

increased tourism in those pristine

National Ecotourism Strategy calls it

locations. Many natural wonders have

“nature-based tourism that involves

fallen victim to their own popularity.

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45


Pro-poor tourism is tourism that provides net benefits for poor people. These negative impacts are ideally offset by the contribution of money to the local residents and environmental awareness to the community and tourists both. Poaching and illegal logging are major problems born of poverty in remote forests, and tourism provides a viable alternative income that does less harm to the land. While it’s not a perfect solution, in this way ecotourism can be a positive force for change for both the natural environment and human society in a developing country. Pro-Poor Tourism Where ecotourism’s motivation is primarily to avoid harm, whereas pro-poor tourism is more focused on actively doing good, in the form of alleviating the poverty of individuals in the community the tourist is visiting. As such, it’s natural that pro-poor tourism is focused primarily on the developing world, although one could realistically engage in pro-poor tourism in poor areas of a developed country, too. Any number of existing tourist activities and products could be adapted to have a pro-poor impact.

Traveling to New Orleans to help bolster the local economy after hurricane Katrina could be seen as a form of pro-poor tourism, depending on where you spent your money. Even visiting a casino on an Indian reservation could be pro-poor tourism. Despite what the casino’s existence may say about modern Native American culture, pro-poor tourism is about reducing poverty, not on maintaining traditional ways of life. In essence, pro-poor tourism is an overall approach to tourism development and management that aims to give poor people chances to benefit from tourism. Any form of tourism can contribute to poverty reduction. Pro-poor tourism is not a new kind of tourism or a special tourist product. It is an approach that seeks to utilize tourism as strategic tool to alleviate poverty among marginalized communities. For this to happen, specific ways need to be identified in which tourism businesses as well as tourists can generate benefits for the poor, both directly and indirectly. This is what

46

The Beaten Path


International tourism can be an engine of employment creation, poverty eradication, ensuring gender equality, and protection of the natural and cultural heritage.� —Third United Nations Conference on the Least Developed Countries


pro-poor tourism is all about. Pro-poor tourism can be defined as tourism which provides net benefits for poor people. Pro-poor tourism is not a specific tourism product or sector, although sometimes new kinds of tourism may be developed with pro-poor goals in mind. Poverty tourism, or “poorism,” is not the same thing as pro-poor tourism but can be an example of it. Pverty tours started in Rio de Janeiro, where people who grew up in the slums started guiding tourists through the streets and alleys of their neighborhood as a new kind of “authentic” experience. Regardless of whether this is a kind of “human safari” exploitation akin to the hill tribes of Thailand, the tour guides channel their profits back into improving the slums. That is pro-poor tourism. There is overlap between pro-poor tourism, ecotourism, and sustainable tourism. Social benefits are just one aspect of sustainability, whereas for pro-poor tourism, reducing poverty is the core focus. Indeed, poverty is a direct cause of many social and The idea of propoor tourism was developed by a group of British ngos, funded by the uk Department for International Development.

environmental problems: the international drug trade, sex tourism, and clear-cutting forests are all born of people’s need for money and willingness to grow drug crops, sell their land, or send their children to brothels in desperation. Reducing poverty would reduce these problems too. Tourism already affects millions of the poor. Even a slight shift to pro-poor policies could generate substantial benefits. Also, tourism has advantages over other industries in relation to poverty reduction. A diverse industry, tourism offers many ways for people to benefit from it—for instance in the informal sector, or as supplementary income. Tourism is labor-intensive, and employs a higher proportion of women and unskilled workers. This is where its promise lies. Tourism can be built on natural and cultural resources which are often some of the only assets that the poor and uneducated have. Pro-poor tourism seeks to find those opportunities.

48

The Beaten Path


Sustainable Tourism

Of all the alternatives to typical mass tourism, sustainable tourism is the broadest and least reductive. It refers to tourism that does not deplete the resources it depends on, whether physical, cultural, or personal. Like ecotourism, sustainable tourism avoids damage to the environment, economy and cultures of the tourist destinations. The goal of sustainable tourism is to ensure

But how can sustainable tourism be

that development is a positive experience

achieved? Sustainable tourism isn’t an

for local people, tourism companies, and

all-or-nothing proposal. In fact, tourism

tourists themselves. In this way the tourist

itself may never be truly sustainable in a

system sustains itself: companies continue

cut-and-dried, demonstrable way. There is

to make profits, tourists continue to have

no easy solution to the dilemma. Tourism

enjoyable experiences, and the local

involves a balance between give and take.

people enjoy benefits and do not find their culture threatened. If any of these groups are unhappy,

Most tourist activities can be made more sustainable in small ways, along the lines of recycling and reducing water use.

the system is strained from within. In the

Many aspects of sustainable tourism do

traditional tourism model, tourists and

not have to be advertised as such in order

companies are kept happy but the local

to succeed. A successful resort could

people are ignored. Sustainable tourism

be run by local residents without ever

attempts to correct that imbalance.

advertising its local ownership.

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49


Physical heritage, once lost, is very difficult to reclaim. To be viable—and therefore self-

own their own heritage; they can do with

sustaining—it requires cooperation

it what they wish. Tourism is a real social

between companies, governments, and

exchange. Culture is flexible and always

the managers of destinations.

moving; over generations, whether from tourism or time, it will change.

Peru’s Success

Despite the financial gains, the people who live near Machu Picchu say they’re unsure whether they’re truly better off than they were before the tourists came.

Peru has had particular success through

Mali’s Potential

government involvement. In the early

The Dogon people of Mali, West Africa,

1990s the Peruvian government decided to

live in a landscape of dramatic canyons,

address the problem of drug trafficking and

with adobe houses creeping up the

violence not only through law enforcement,

cliffsides. Their traditional culture is

but by simultaneously promoting tourism

elaborate and vibrant, with a rich musical

as the country became more secure. By the

heritage, ritual dances and photogenic

end of the decade tourism had doubled.

costumes. Tourists have started to notice.

As a result of this success, Peru’s

decade, and most tours are organized by

city of Machu Picchu, was becoming

residents of the country and operate on

degraded. The government once again

a village level. In Mali we find an example

stepped in and placed quotas on the

of why tourism in the developing world,

number of visitors allowed on the trails

being such a new phenomenon, holds such

each day, and regulated the number and

promise in not repeating the errors of the

type of tourist businesses that serve the

established tourist industry.

area. Physical heritage, once lost, is very difficult to reclaim. The loss of culture by commodification is harder to judge and regulate. People

50

The Beaten Path

Tourism in Mali has doubled in the last

major tourist site, the ancient mountain

While some of the older Dogon regret that their children are would rather be tour guides than train and work at a traditional trade, young people reply that


tourism gives them a reason to stay in their

tourism starts with tourists, tourists alone

hometowns rather than leaving to find

cannot change the way the tourist industry

work in other countries.

affects native people.

The Malian government is aware of

The industry is entrenched and will

tourism’s potential and is committed to

do what it must to maintain its profits.

developing it along sustainable lines that

Ultimately, the constitution of tourism is

involve the local people.

an organic process, shaped by people,

Companies on their own are unlikely to work towards sustainable tourism unless

companies, and governments together. The success of sustainable tourism

they see a clear demand for explicitly

ultimately requires tourists and companies

green or sustainable vacations. Since

to think more about how tourism impacts

tourism is an industry, sustainable tourism

other people’s homes, and for governments

must be profitable. If it can’t sustain itself

to support sustainable projects.

commercially, its positive benefits to the place will be lost. Counter-intuitively, it does not

By seeking more diversity and depth in their travels, tourists can help avoid the negative impacts of tourism on the places

necessarily require any particular interest

they visit, may contribute to the well-being

from tourists themselves. Few tourists

of the people who live there, and also enjoy

care about traveling “green.” If sustainable

a more satisfying experience.

tourism is only a special-interest niche, its positive effects will be negated by the vast impact of mass tourism. Therefore, to achieve sustainable tourism, companies and resort managers must have incentives to reduce the negative impacts of tourism. Although

The key is not to make every vacation a guilt trip, but to make the alternatives as desirable and compelling as the ordinary tourist options.

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51


For better or worse, tourism will change the culture of any place it touches. In response, we must change the culture of tourism.

52

The Beaten Path


Section

53



Section

55



Section

57



Notes and References ii

Independence quote. Comment on “Going Local” travel blog. http://goinglocaltravel.blogspot.com/2009/02/what-is -authentic-travel.html

iv

Regional flavor quote. Roy, Arundhati. The God of Small Things. New York: Harper Perennial, 1998.

2

Third world tourism quote. Huybers, Twan (Ed.). Tourism in Developing Countries. Cheltenham, UK: Edward Elgar, 2007.

7

Grand Tour quote. Gross, Matt. “Lessons from the Frugal Grand Tour.” New York Times, September 5, 2008.

15 Driven by poverty quote. “Sri Lanka: Tourism—the road to ruin or repair?” Tourism Concern, August 14, 2009. http://www.tourismconcern.org.uk/index.php?mact=News,cntnt01,detail,0&cntnt01articleid=135&cntnt01returnid=72 16 Growth chart. Page, Stephen & Joanne Connell. Tourism: A Modern Synthesis. London: Thomson Learning, 2006. Pro-Poor Tourism Info Sheet No. 4, “Developing Countries’ Share of the International Tourism Market.” http://www.iztzg.hr/UserFiles/Pdf/sustainable/Pro-poor-tourism-info-sheets.pdf 18 History of Cancun. “Cancún.” Wikipedia. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cancún/

“Cancun.” CancunEasy! http://www.cancuneasy.com/Cancun/

18 Developing countries map. World Economic Outlook Report. International Monetary Fund, October 2009. 19 Leakage quote. Nirit Ben-Ari, “Poverty is Worsening in African ldcs” Global Policy Forum, 2002. 19 Leakage chart. Pleumarom, Anita. “Does Tourism Benefit the Third World?” Third World Network. http://www.twnside.org.sg /tour.htm - http://www.twnside.org.sg/title/takeover.htm 22 Cultural survival quote. Kamuaro, Ole. “Ecotourism: Suicide or Development.” Voices from Africa, No. 6: Sustainable Development, United Nations Non-Governmental Liason Service, August 1996. http://www.unsystem.org/ngls/documents /publications.en/voices.africa/number6/vfa6.12.htm 33 Women in Central America. “Tourism Offers Opportunities for Women Workers but New Problems Emerge.” United Nations Development Fund for Women, October 2, 2009. http://www.unifem.org/news_events/story_detail.php?StoryID=949 35 Women in Yunnan. Morais, Duarte B. “How is Tourism Affecting Ethnic Minority Women?” Asia Pacific Newsletter, The International Ecotourism Society, July 2005. http://www.scribd.com/doc/11395206/How-is-Tourism-Affecting-Ethnic -Minority-Women36 Hill tribes information. Tim Forsyth. “Sustainable Tourism.” The London School of Economics and Political Science. http://www.fathom.com/course/21701788/sessions.html


37 East Africa & Indonesia. “How Tourism Can Contribute to Environmental Conservation.” The Sustainable Tourism Gateway. http://www.gdrc.org/uem/eco-tour/envi/four.html 38 Masai quote. Renton, Alex. “Tourism is a Curse for Us.” The Observer, September 6, 2009. http://www.guardian.co.uk /world/2009/sep/06/masai-tribesman-tanzania-tourism 40 Staged authenticity. Dean MacCannell. The Tourist: A New Theory of the Leisure Class. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1999. 39 Kenya income statistic. “Kenya—Income.” Encyclopedia of the Nations. http://www.nationsencyclopedia.com/Africa /Kenya-INCOME.html 40 Responsible tourism quote. “Global Code of Ethics for Tourism.” United Nations World Tourism Organization. http://www.unwto.org/code_ethics/eng/global.htm 40 Balinese culture quote. Picard, Michel. “Balinese identity as tourist attraction.” Tourist Studies, Vol. 8, No. 2, 2008. 42 West Bali National Park. “Does Tourism Really Help Revitalise Management of National Parks as Commons? Lessons Learned from West Bali National Park, Indonesia.“ Digital Library of the Commons. http://dlcvm.dlib.indiana.edu/archive/00002031/ 42 Golf water usage. “Golf: Is it as ‘green’ as it looks?” Tourism Concern. http://www.tourismconcern.org.uk/index.php?page=golf-2

Vaessen, Step. “Tourism leaves Bali’s poor facing drought.” Al Jazeera, October 27,2008.

43 Sex tourism. “Child sex abuse growing problem in Bali.” December 6, 2006. http://news.baliwww.com/child-sex-abuse-growing -problem-in-bali/ 44 Pro-Poor Tourism definitions. Pro-Poor Tourism Partnership. http://www.propoortourism.org.uk/ 45 International tourism quote. “Brussels Programme of Action for the Least Developed Countries for the Decade 2001-2010.” Third United Nations Conference on the Least Developed Countries, May 20, 2001. http://www.un-documents.net/ac191-11.htm 45 Burma guidebook. “Forbidden Glimpses of Shan State.” Shan Women’s Action Network, November 2009. www.shanwomen .org/file/Forbidden-Glimpses-of-Shan-State-English.pdf 47 Mali tourism. “Travel And Tourism in Mali.” Euromonitor International, July 2009. http://www.euromonitor.com /Travel_And_Tourism_in_Mali

Schwarz, Naomi. “Behind the Masks.” CNN Traveller. http://www.cnntraveller.com/2007/05/01/behind-the-masks/


Index of Places

26 Kenya & Tanzania 37 Rwanda, Uganda, & Congo 15 Sri Lanka 47 Mali 4 England 28 Bali, Indonesia 48 Peru 34 Panama 36 Costa Rica 16 Cancun, Mexico

37 Sumatra, Indonesia 24 Thailand 31 Burma (Myanmar) 34 Yunnan Province, China





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