NEW COLUMNS!
Tiramisu
Lightens Up
Wake Up for
BRUNCH
One-Bowl Pasta Dinners
joyofJamie kosher Geller with
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Cookie Dough Cheesecake with Ganache
Dairy
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p. 66
DECADENCE! FESTIVE RECIPES
A QUICK & KOSHER HOLIDAY FEAST with Refreshing Seasonal Veggies
Jamie’s
Candied Orange Cheesecake p.49
GET A LOAD OF ICE CREAM Cheesecake Ice Cream with Streusel Coffee with Toffee Crunch All-Natural Pareve Pistachio… and more!
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USA $3.99 CANADA $5.99 / INT’L $6.99
CHEF SETH’S SECRETS REVEALED! GNOCCHI AND CHERRY SODA SPARE RIBS FOR ORIGINAL SHAVUOS RECIPES, MEAL IDEAS AND MORE, VISIT WWW.JOYOFKOSHER.COM
May/June 2011 | Shavuos 5771
KOSHER MEDIA NETWORK
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First Course F O O D N E W S , B I T S , A N D T I P S TO W H E T T H E PA L AT E
Kosher–Just in Time This summer, the newly kosher Oreo goes double-decker with three cookies and both vanilla and chocolate cream fillings. They’re not in stores yet, but Nabisco couldn’t contain the buzz.
? Can’t wait Make your own.
HOMEMADE OREOS: Combine 1 ¼ cups flour, ½ cup cocoa, 1 tsp baking soda, ½ tsp salt, and 1 cup sugar in electric mixer. While mixing, add ½ cup plus 2 Tbsp butter or margarine, and 1 large egg. Place rounded teaspoons on lined baking sheet and bake for 9 minutes at 3750F. To prepare the cream, combine ¼ cup butter or margarine, ½ cup shortening, 2 cups confectioners’ sugar, 1 large egg, and 2 tsp vanilla. Pipe into center of cookies.
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EATING CHOCOLATE AIDS IN WEIGHT LOSS? C’MON. MAYBE THEY’RE A LITTLE BIASED? Scientists at the Hershey Center for Health and Nutrition in Pennsylvania say that the compounds in cocoa can prevent the body’s absorption of fats and carbs—and aid in weight management. Not so fast—the scientists warn that cocoa and chocolate are not the same thing. Cocoa is the non-fat component of chocolate, which also contains butter and sugar.
ravings Peanut C ncy? in Pregna
It’s a Good Time to Indulge
MATERNAL INTAKE OF PEANUTS may prevent your children from developing peanut allergies. And you have license to keep munching postpartum as well, as scientist Iván LópezExpósito says that peanut-specific antibodies in breast milk might also “be, at least in part, responsible for this protection.”
What’s on the Grill This Season?
The next trend?
WHY ‘AN APPLE A DAY’ IS NO MYTH THE OLD ADAGE, ‘AN APPLE A DAY KEEPS THE DOCTOR AWAY,’ originated 150 years ago in Pembrokeshire in southwest Wales when the rhyme Eat an apple on going to bed/And you’ll keep the doctor from earning his bread, was published in a Welsh magazine. But—scientists say the adage holds true. That’s because the fruit contains pectin—which offers a host of benefits for the body including aiding in the metabolizing of fat, reducing “bad” cholesterol, improving metabolism, and contributing to SWEET AND SOUR increased satiety. flavor combinations, unique local ingredients, and hotter spices—like the earthy ancho, smoky chipotle, and the red hot pop of cayenne, are the grill trends for the upcoming season, according to The McCormick Grill Mates and Lawry’s Flavor Forecast 2011: Grilling Edition. How to work these flavor profiles onto the menu? Try fiery peppers with sweet corn or sweet paprika with citrusy orange.
Cupcakes, Macarons…what’s next for dessert trends? PUT AWAY YOUR PIPING BAG and take out your… pie weights. It’s the pie that may be the next apple of America’s eye. “Pies are now turning up on menus of top restaurants,” says Shira Bocar, author of Martha Stewart’s new Pies and Tarts cookbook, “There is a boom in pie-centric shops. They are the dessert stars at more and more dinner parties.” On the heels of the single-serving cupcake, the pies are being made into mini-sizes too.
Compete
UPCOMING COOKING CONTESTS CHEESECAKE CONNOISSEUR Think you created the ultimate this season? You’ll earn back some of your cream cheese investment with the $500 prize. Deadline: September 14th, 2011. MUSHROOM MANIA! Submit your original recipe that incorporates at least 8 ounces of mushrooms and win a trip to culinary school or a Weber grill. Deadline: August 1st, 2011. HAUTE HORS D’OEUVRES If your appetizer recipes wins raves, you’ll take home a $500 prize. Deadline: July 15,2011.
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For more contest rules and info on entering, visit JoyofKosher.com/magazine to suggest your favorite SHAVUOS 5771 | MAY/JUNE 2011 | JOYOFKOSHER.COM |
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QUICK & KOSHER
20
min prep
Potato Pancakes with Guacamole and Poached Eggs Smoked Salmon Omelet Ricotta Pancakes with Peach Syrup Southwestern Frittata Individual Baked Challah French Toast with Caramelized Bananas Mimosas
A La Minute
shavuos brunch
There’s something for everyone at this perfect Shavuos brunch. Use “à la minute” techniques to individualize delectable breakfast cuisine.
By Jamie Geller | Photos by Andrew Purcell | Styling by Carrie Purcell
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fter a night of Torah learning, a fresh breakfast hits the spot. This is the time for à la minute fare. In the culinary arts (which always sounded to me like painting with ketchup), à la minute refers to a style of cooking where an item, or particularly its accompanying sauce, is prepared to order, rather than prepped in advance. You can make elements of this breakfast à la minute, and prep some ahead of time, so you are not at the stove while everyone else is enjoying the yuntif feast. It has some savory dishes, sweet sides, southwestern influences, and a little smoked salmon for good measure.
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Cooking with
Adrenaline
Chef Seth Warshaw’s food is fueled with the intense desire to discover new flavors and deliver them on the plate. Now, this inspired chef shares his signature dishes with Joy of Kosher readers. Recipes by Seth Warshaw | Text by Victoria Dwek | Photos by Dan Engongoro
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t’s 1pm on Palisades Avenue in Teaneck. Chef Seth Warshaw is pulling up to the white stucco front of his restaurant, etc. steakhouse. He’s just come from Restaurant Depot, where he and his partner Yissachar Dov, or “Novy,” went through the cases, picking their own produce. There were no haricot verts there today, but there were beautiful sugar snap peas. There’ll have to be some adjustments to the side dishes—a different vinaigrette to complement the extra sweetness. Soon, the rest of the kitchen staff has also arrived and the prepping begins. The vegetables are chopped, the butcher is breaking the meat down into steaks, the gnocchi is being rolled. Tonight, there’s fresh pasta on the menu, so the dough is being kneaded and passed through the pasta machine. Dinner service begins at 5:30, but it’s not until a little later that the restaurant fills up and the kitchen goes into overdrive. Then, you won’t find Chef Seth at the front of the house (though he loves saying hello to his customers)—where many chefs like to make appearances. He’s not expediting, “I tried that and I was bored. I opened a restaurant to cook. So I want to cook.” Seth loves the challenge of using mostly seasonal, and sometimes exotic produce. The menu changes every other week, and every eight weeks, the menu turns over completely. It’s a challenge—but writing new recipes, the creating, putting new food on the plate—it’s Seth’s favorite part of the job. “And having someone tell you it was awesome,” he adds. “I always had a desire to cook—it wasn’t necessary. My mom always cooked and was there when I returned home from school. But, when my friends came over, I loved cooking for them. In high school, we’d make weird concoctions, using staples like barbecue sauce
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Gnocchi
Spare Ribs
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QUICK & KOSHER
Warm Outside,
Delicious
These spunky dairy dishes can challenge any fleishig fare for holiday feasting
By Jamie Geller | Photos by Andrew Purcell | Styling by Carrie Purcell
I love Shavuos. It’s such a happy yuntif—full of Torah and flowers, learning and family. And it’s our chance to indulge in yummy milchig meals that are as lavish and tantalizing as meat fests. This wonderful seasonal menu will make your dairy meals a gourmet’s delight, and will even placate the meat & potatoes fans in your family.
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Inside
Mini Spanakopita Spring Vegetable Risotto Roasted Beets with Honeyed Pistachios Creamy Smashed Potatoes with Chives Greek Style Mahi Mahi Candied Orange Cheesecake
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hardware
No Ice Cream Machine? No Worries. By Felisa Billet
The pleasure of high-quality, homemade ice cream doesn’t have to be lost to those who don’t own an ice cream machine. If you have a food processor or blender, you, too, can enjoy a refreshing treat.
Instant Ice Cream Begin by making any base for ice cream or custard according to the recipe’s directions. Chill the base for a few hours in the fridge. Once it’s sufficiently cold, line two rimmed cookie sheets with plastic wrap and pour half the mixture onto each pan. Freeze until firm. If you have a lot of ice cube trays, you can pour the ice cream base into the ice cube molds and freeze. (Transfer the frozen cubes to a Ziploc bag for longer storage.) When you want ice cream, take one of the trays out of the freezer. Working quickly, peel the ice cream off the plastic and break into pieces. Place the chunks of ice cream, or the cubes, in a blender or in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Pulse for a minute or two to break down the frozen chunks. When using a blender, you may need to add the smallest amount of water to get the mixture moving. Continue on low, until the consistency reaches the texture of soft serve ice cream. Using a rubber spatula, transfer to a container and store in the freezer. Repeat with the remaining frozen ice cream base. If you are making a recipe with mix-ins, such as cookie dough, fold the items into the ice cream after removing it from the blender or food processor.
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Instant Fruit Sorbets To whip up a batch of all-natural fruit sorbet, frozen fruit from the supermarket can be used, or make your own. Peel and cut up fruit such as pears, nectarines, peaches, cantaloupe, mangos, bananas, and strawberries. Place them in a single layer on a cookie tray lined with plastic wrap and freeze. Once frozen, transfer to a Ziploc bag and keep frozen. To make the sorbet, chop a few cups of frozen fruit into small pieces. If you can, add half a frozen banana to the mixture, as it will add a creamy texture to the finished product. Place the chopped frozen fruit in a blender, or a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Add a tablespoon or two of water or juice (less is best), a little bit of sweetener such as sugar, honey, agave nectar, or simple syrup. Pulse for a minute or two, until the fruit breaks down, adding a little more liquid if necessary, to keep the machine running. Keep pulsing or mixing the fruit on a low setting until it has transformed into a silky smooth frozen consistency you can serve with an ice cream scooper. To make instant frozen yogurt, use the same method, substituting a few tablespoons of yogurt for the liquid.
Tips for Success
Don’t add too much liquid. You want just enough to get the mixture moving, adding a teaspoon or two at intervals in the beginning of the process. Overworking the frozen ingredients will create heat, resulting in a smoothie instead of ice cream. To ensure a thick consistency, err on the side of lumps. If the majority of the sorbet or ice cream is finished, it’s better to pick out a few lumps, than to overprocess the rest.
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Prefer soft serve?
“When it works, it’s really good,” says Faige of Cuisinart’s ICE-45 Soft Serve Ice Cream Maker, priced at $99.99. “But you have to work on it to get it right—once you get your recipe to the right consistency, you’ll enjoy this machine.”
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You’ll Love Your Ice Cream Machine
Think it’s hard or time-consuming to make your own ice cream? Ice cream machines like the ones below do the magic for you. Faige Sprecher from The Kitchen Clique fills us in on the best options for the at-home ice cream chef.
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For Do-ItYourselfers
For the Practical
For
For Entertainers
For Kids Who Want to Help
CUISIPRO MANUAL ICE CREAM MAKER $59.99 at kitchenclique.com I suppose some people need ice cream all the time, even during a power outage. Others like to go back to the basics. The Cuisipro uses no electricity— simply chill the cylinder overnight, prepare your recipe and pour it in, give the machine a few cranks, and presto. Twenty minutes later, you have ice cream.
CUISINART ICE-21 $49.99 CUISINART ICE-30BC $79.99 at kitchenclique.com The popular Cuisinart machine is super easy to use, with great results in about 20 minutes. “I also like the 2 quart model, the stainless steel Cuisinart Pure Indulgence ICE-30BC,” says Faige. More ice cream? Who could say no to that! “But—you can’t just say, ‘I’m making ice cream.’ The bowl must be put in the freezer in advance.”
Procrastinators
CUISINART SUPREME COMMERCIAL QUALITY ICE CREAM MAKER $299.99 at kitchenclique.com Need ice cream anytime, all the time, and on a whim? “This is the king of ice cream machines. It has its own compressor, so the bowl doesn’t need to be stored in the freezer in advance,” says Faige. But, convenience comes at a price.
BACK TO BASICS ICE CREAM MACHINE $79.99 at kitchenclique. com A large 4 quart capacity and an authentic old-fashioned look, this model offers enough ice cream for a crowd at a price well lower than the similar White Mountain machines.
! WWIN a 1 in E-2 rt IC m sina Cui e Crea Ic aker M
PLAY AND FREEZE ICE CREAM MAKER $29.99 at The Kitchen Clique “This looks like a toy… but it really works! Fill the ball up, toss it around, and it makes great ice cream,” Faige tells us. “The kids love getting involved.”
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