Your stability testing questions answered

The beauty, skin and personal care industry is one of the most fertile grounds for entrepreneurs, particularly here in Africa. This is largely driven by the desire to create products which are better suited to African skins and African conditions. We asked Robyn Brown of Botanichem and Stability Testing Services the most common questions pertaining to stability testing.

A RECENT REPORT by Technavio forecasts that the beauty and personal care markets in Africa are poised to grow by $1.26bn between 2021 and 2025, with compound annual growth expected to be almost 2% during the forecast period.

According to Brown, this is exciting news for ingredient suppliers, formulators and consumers. However, in order to capitalise on the opportunities presented by the market, new and even established players need to pay attention to proper planning, especially when it comes to testing of products.

“We still see many companies rushing products to market in order to take advantage of market demands, often cutting corners when it comes to establishing product stability and safety. This leads to costly recalls and, ultimately, lost opportunities,” Brown explains.

The Stability Testing Services team is constantly asked whether it is really necessary to do stability testing when launching a new skin care product.

“The answer is yes,” says Brown. “Whilst it is an added expense, stability testing should be built into every product plan.”

HOW DOES STABILITY TESTING PROTECT A FORMULATION’S SAFETY?

Formulation safety is the most important reason to do stability testing. Your skin care products need to be safe for use and must remain safe at least until their expiry date.

“A couple of months of thorough testing can make the difference between a retailer wanting to sell your product long term or not,” comments Brown.

DOES TESTING PROTECT A BRAND’S REPUTATION?

A product’s formulation is part of the brand’s identity. Over the years, the industry has seen so many brands recalled due to improper testing.

“In the highly competitive world of skin care, one bad experience can deter a consumer from ever trying your brand again. Even a simple problem like an emulsion separating can do irreparable damage, especially in this era of social media,” she explains. “Rather spend the extra time and expense at the beginning of the process than trying to repair damage once your product has launched.”

Botanichem’s Robyn Brown says stability testing is crucial in order to deliver a safe and professional product

All new products should undergo stability testing before being introduced to market

WHEN SHOULD ONE DO STABILITY TESTING?

All new products should undergo stability testing before being introduced to market, be it on-shelf or in the e-commerce space. If you change an ingredient or tweak your formulation, you should also consider repeating stability tests as these changes can affect how long a product lasts in a retail environment.

Packaging and changing packaging can also have a massive effect on the stability of a product. Product can leak or come into contact with air, which could have a negative effect on the efficacy of the formulation.

DOES TESTING HELP WITH REGULATORY COMPLIANCE?

“Regulations differ worldwide and although stability testing is good practice, it isn’t mandatory everywhere. Cosmetic stability testing is a requirement of the Cosmetic Product Safety Report, which is needed to sell your cosmetic product in the EU, and there are similar requirements in other parts of the world,” says Brown.

Her recommendation is to ensure that your product is compliant with global standards so that you can sell your products anywhere. Stability testing isn’t just something you do to comply with the law; it is what you do in order to deliver a safe and professional product. •

Did you know?

Stability Testing Services is a division of Botanichem. It provides various services to the Southern African beauty, skin and personal care industry, including stability testing, formulation design, quality assurance and dossier preparation for both the European and Asian markets.

Botanichem – botanichem.co.za