A healthy, even glow for ethnic skin

Ethnic skin has its own concerns that often vary greatly from those of other skin types. Lipotec Active Ingredients, a Lubrizol Life Science company, developed Ebonitone biotech ingredient to meet the needs of ethnic skin. This biotechnology extract has been tested in vivo on South African volunteers. In this article, Alicia Gimenez, Elena Cañadas, Eulalia Gonzalez and Raquel Delgado share the impressive results.

Most experts agree that hyperpigmentation is a common problem among consumers with ethnic skin. Their melanin-rich skin is more susceptible to discoloration or the appearance of dark spots, resulting in an uneven colour or tone. Many of the products these consumers see advertised or find on the shelves might not work for them, because their dark spots are much more pigmented and harder to improve.

Hyperpigmentation is the result of different overlapping causes, particularly sun exposure. Skin darkening is also a common consequence of inflammation, such as that which occurs with acne, known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Finally, everyday life factors can alter skin pigmentation, including aggressors such as shaving and chafing, and even irritation from wearing a mask, now more commonly known as ‘maskne’.

Figure 1: Melanin levels. HDQ: hydroquinone; HR: 4-Hexylresorcinol; ARB: arbutin; BR: 4-Butylresorcinol; MAP: magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; KA: kojic acid; GA: glycyrrhizic acid ammonium salt. Statistical significance vs control: ****p<0.0001

Figure 2: The active ingredient neutralised Wnt-1 induced hyperpigmentation

Figure 3: Results for the L* and the ITAº parameters. Statistical significance vs initial time: ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. Statistical significance vs placebo for L*: **p<0.01 (28 and 56 days); for ITAº: **p<0.01 (28 days); ***p<0.001 (56 days)

Extract targeting hyperpigmentation

Ebonitone biotech ingredient is an extract obtained by biotechnology from a marine microorganism to target uneven skin tone due to hyperpigmentation. Thanks to its comprehensive mechanism of action, based on the regulation of multiple stages of the pigmentation process, Ebonitone biotech ingredient can even the skin tone with high efficacy, even in dark skin phototypes.

Gene expression related to all pigmentation steps

The modulation of gene expression in human epidermal melanocytes was determined using microarray analysis after treatment with a concentrate of the Ebonitone biotech ingredient. The ingredient modulated gene coding for components of melanogenic signalling pathways (ENDRB and FZD), melanosomal proteins (Pmel17 and melan-A), melanin-synthesising enzymes (TYR, TRP-1 and TRP-2) and proteins involved in melanosome transfer (DKK1). The gene expression results suggest that, in all the key steps of the pigmentation process, the active would favour a reduction of the production and distribution of melanin in the skin.

Melanin production

Melanocytes, the cells responsible for producing melanin in the skin, were incubated with benchmark brighteners or with Ebonitone biotech ingredient concentrate. All the compounds at a concentration of 1µg/mℓ. Melanin was extracted from the cells and quantified.

The results (displayed in Figure 1) show that with Ebonitone biotech ingredient, the cells contained 49.6% less melanin, which is an inhibition of melanogenesis comparable to that of standard agents, some of which are cytotoxic.

Melanogenesis related to dark-spot formation

The ability of the active ingredient to prevent melanogenesis and hyperpigmentation was assessed in an epidermal model treated with Wnt-1, an activator of melanocytes involved in the development of age spots.

A reconstructed human pigmented epidermis was incubated with Wnt-1 to induce hyperpigmentation and with Ebonitone biotech ingredient concentrate. Thereafter, melanin was detected and quantified using a Fontana-Masson stain and an optical microscope (see Figure 2). The active ingredient decreased pigmentation related to age spots by 52.1%.

Increased luminosity for a healthy glow

A clinical test was performed on a group of 24 African female volunteers with skin phototypes V-VI and aged between 35 and 50 years old, who presented with a dull and uneven complexion. The volunteers applied a cream containing 2% Ebonitone biotech ingredient to half of their face and a placebo cream to the other half, twice a day for 56 days.

Colorimetric measurements of the skin were taken on the cheek using a spectrophotometer. The luminance (L*) and individual typology angle (ITAº) parameters were determined. After 28 and 56 days of treatment, there were significant increases in skin luminance and in the ITAº, which indicates a lower degree of pigmentation (as seen in Figure 3). Digital photographs of the volunteers show improvement in the skin complexion after treatment with the active cream (see Figure 4).

A self-assessment questionnaire completed by the volunteers at the end of the study confirmed their perception of a more luminous and healthy skin glow. These percentages were confirmed by volunteers for the following statements: • 92% agreed it helps to lighten up the skin tone • 80% said it improves skin luminosity • 88% confirmed their skin tone appears more even.

Conclusion

Melanin is synthesised by melanocytes and distributed through the epidermis in a multi-step process. By targeting each of the steps in this process, Ebonitone biotech ingredient can effectively reduce the accumulation of melanin. Daily application of the ingredient in a cream can help provide a glowing complexion and homogenise the skin tone to achieve a natural ebony beauty.

Ebonitone biotech ingredient is available throughout Southern Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals. •

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