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Innovative technology delivers pure pearlescent pigments with unrivalled effects
Developed to impart a pearlescent or “shimmer” look to products, effect pigments are a staple formulation technology in cosmetics and personal care products. But what are they made from and how exactly do they achieve their visual impact? By Abby Vorster
According to CQV, a global leader in effect pigments for cosmetics applications, pearlescent pigments consist of laminar crystals with an aspect ratio unlike general pigments. The interference colours come from the refraction ratio difference between the laminar crystal and intervention material, providing effects such as iridescence and metallic gloss.
CQV is the largest pearlescent pigment manufacturer in Korea, mainly producing pearlescent pigments based on natural and synthetic mica, borosilicate and alumina. Its sales network covers the globe, including South Africa where it is represented by CJP Chemicals. CQV’s products are widely used in cosmetics, skin care products and detergents for their high quality and special effects.
MIRINAE PEARLESCENT PIGMENTS
Widely used in cosmetics applications, pearlescent pigments are coated with metal oxides using substrates such as natural mica, synthetic mica, borosilicate, or other platy materials. Mirinae utilises man-made platy alumina. This material imparts an extremely soft feel when used as an effect pearlescent pigment. It also provides unique appearance properties.
To date, the use of man-made platy alumina in the cosmetics industry has been limited due to its high cost and relative lack of availability. Specific technology and highly technical skills are needed to manufacture plate-type alumina for use in pearlescent pigments. As a result of years of creative R&D, CQV holds a patented formula for producing plate-type alumina. The company has spent a lot of time developing plate-type alumina because its structural difference is of considerable benefit to the intended effect of pearlescent pigments. Plate-type alumina is a single structure with a uniform thickness, whereas the bases commonly used in existing effect pigments are multi-layered structures with irregular thickness. As a uniform base refracts and reflects light in the same direction, it is more likely to maximise gloss and colour – giving pearlescent pigments their unique characteristics.
To increase the availability of Mirinae pearlescent pigments, CQV has succeeded in transferring its patented technology for industrial mass production of plate-type alumina.
Did you know?
CQV’s cosmetic effect pigments provide performance properties that are superior to those of conventional coated micas when it comes to lustre, chroma, clarity and colour purity.
These pearlescent pigments are suitable for use in all cosmetics products, such as eye makeup, lipsticks and lip balms, nail polish and body products. They offer a great sparkling effect and high colour purity with low heavy metal content.
MIRINAE LUX SERIES
The newest offering from CQV in its Mirinae range of pearlescent pigments is the Lux series. These are clean, pure and pollutantfree single-layered pearlescent pigments with a uniform thickness and smooth surface. These attributes are essential characteristics for effect pigments.
Gold and red pearlescent pigments are available in the Mirinae Lux Series. This series is unique in the market as there is no competitor product available with the same particularly strong sparkling effect, despite the small particle size of these pearlescent pigments. Chroma and brilliance are maximised, distinguishing Mirinae Lux from other alumina effect materials on the market.
ESORORA GLARE
CQV has reintroduced its Esorora Glare series of gold, red and blue with newly-added hues of violet. These multi-colour effect pigments are based on borosilicate and produced in two grades: P-grade (30µm to 180µm) and the newer H-grade (60µm to 500µm), which has a larger particle size compared to the P-grade.
The newer Esorora Glare H-grade also meets the need for an eco-friendly, plastic-free source of glitter effect pigments. Traditionally, glitter flakes used in cosmetics were based on polyester. Due to rising concerns about microplastics and environmental pollution, manufacturers and brand owners have been looking for more sustainable options as an alternative to polyester-based glitter.
With CQV’s Esorora Glare H-grade, the industry now has access to plastic-free glittering effect pigments for colour cosmetics and personal care products. They are especially effective in nail polish where they offer maximum sparkling effect thanks to their significantly larger particle size.
FEATHELEVE PT SERIES
Substrates play an important role in effect pigments, allowing for physical and chemical stability of the pigment particle. Furthermore, the degree of transparency a substrate offers is key to light transmission, which in part determines the degree of lustre or pearlescence. Iridescent colours develop according to the thickness of the metal oxide coating.
Effect pigments in the Featheleve PT Series are substrate-free, so the metal oxide coating envelopes an air core. This construction of the pigments distinguishes Featheleve from other effect pigments and gives them an index of refraction of 1.0. The refractive index of substrates used in typical effect pigments is about 1.3 for borosilicate and about 1.6 for synthetic mica and natural mica. The refractive index of a metal oxide coating such as TiO2 is 2.8. Accordingly, pairing TiO2 with an air core, i.e. Featheleve, yields an unsurpassed effect when compared to typical effect pigments. The Featheleve Series is classified by three main features:
1. effect pigments without gloss which deliver a silky feel when applied on skin, making them suitable for skin care products as well as makeup
2. feather-like light-weight effect pigments that deliver a smooth feel and even finish on skin
3. effect pigments that offer comparable UV protection to TiO2 without the skin whitening effect associated with TiO2.
The third feature of Featheleve effect pigments has been tested in vivo. The results of this test showed Featheleve in sunscreen formulation was able to obtain a UV blocking index close to that of nano TiO2, making these effect pigments highly suited to sun care products. The series is also ideal for use in BB creams, foundations, skin care products, powders, and bath and cleansing products.
FEATHELEVE PTM
To add to the versatility of the Featheleve series, CQV also offers metallic colours using Featheleve as a substrate which is coated with a secondary layer of Fe2O3 to produce a metallic effect.
Depending on the thickness of the metal oxide coating, this series consists of six colours developed in line with customer preference. These are fine gold, orange, coral, red, violet and lime gold.
Featheleve PTM pigments do not require a separate milling process because they are free of agglomerations. This series can be used in a wide range of applications, from basic cosmetics and beauty products, to UV protection products, foundations and nail polishes. •
CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za
CQV – www.cqv.co.kr
