4 minute read
The great sunscreen cover-up
Sunscreen ingredients and formulations continue to be one of the most hotly debated issues in the cosmetics industry. This is mostly because there are so many conflicting opinions and regulations regarding what is safe for both customers and the environment, depending on where you are in the world and what standards you follow. Add to this the move towards natural, organic and sustainable ingredients and you have fertile ground for confusion and misinformation.
According to Robyn Brown, owner of Botanichem and a formulator with more than 30 years’ experience, one of the biggest challenges facing companies wanting to formulate sunscreens is addressing the perception that organic and natural ingredients are good for the environment and, in particular, our oceans and coral reefs.
“All the hype and focus on the harmful effects of sunscreens on coral reefs and other aquatic environments and the subsequent banning of certain ingredients in places like Hawaii, Australia, Florida Keys and a host of other island territories, have forced skin care manufacturers to look at alternative formulations and ingredients,” she explains.
However, whilst UV filters and other ingredients including oxybenzone, octinoxate, octocrylene, homosalate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, PABA, parabens and triclosan are all thought to have a negative effect on marine environments, what many do not realise is that natural alternatives like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are also harmful to reefs.
“Just because a UV filter is naturally sourced does not mean it does not cause damage, is bio-degradable or better for the environment,” says Brown. “Both titanium dioxide and zinc oxide produce hydrogen peroxide when exposed to solar radiation. Hydrogen peroxide is a strong oxidising agent, which diminishes the quality of the water. This is one of the main issues affecting the health of coral and other marine life.”
A holistic approach with EcoSun Pass
Formulating sunscreens that meet reef-friendly criteria and are natural and/or organic is essentially impossible at this stage, as the UV filters proven to not damage coral reefs and marine life are chemical in composition, and as mentioned, those that are natural, are actually not reef/ocean safe.
It is therefore imperative that the formulator’s choice of raw materials and ingredients used in sunscreens is based on a range of parameters, which determine the impact on the environment rather than speak to broad claims.
In 2019, BASF Care Creations introduced EcoSun Pass which addresses the environmental effect of UV filters in a holistic way. The methodology involves a transparent assessment of UV filters based on internationally-recognised criteria and looks at eight different parameters:
1. biodegradation
2. acute aquatic toxicity
3. chronic aquatic toxicity
4. logPow
5. bioaccumulation
6. terrestrial toxicity
7. sediment toxicity
8. endocrine suspicion.
By considering all these parameters, it is hoped that more eco-compliant sunscreen formulations can be developed. The EcoSun Pass is calculated on the following:
• SPF and UVA-PF value
• type of UV filter used in the formulation
• quantity of UV filter used.
“This kind of holistic approach is what should guide formulators and formulations going forward,” says Brown. “I also believe that it is worth considering where and what the sunscreen will be used for. A sunscreen product that wants to make the claim of being natural or organic and will mainly be used for inland activities could safely consider using titanium dioxide and zinc oxide as UV filter, whereas a product that will be used for ocean-based activities may have to compromise on the natural claim and choose a UV filter that is environmentally safe.”
The nano debate
In addition to solving the problem of UV filters that are safe for people and our oceans, are concerns around the dangers of the use of the nano form of titanium dioxide. Nano titanium dioxide has been shown to be carcinogenic if inhaled. This, however, has only been shown to be of concern in airborne particles measuring 10µm or less.
These microscopic particles are generally only present in some aerosol sunscreens, hair colour sprays and cosmetic powders.
Sunjin Beauty Science supplies both nano and non-nano titanium dioxide, which comply with European and American regulations and are COSMOS- and ECOCERT-approved.
Zinc oxide has faced similar criticism regarding the inhalation dangers; however, it too has been approved for use by both the EU and US authorities with the exception of being used in aerosol sunscreens.
“The bottom line is that sunscreen formulations are not a one-size-fits-all approach. Brand owners and manufacturers need to identify their needs and work carefully with formulators to create products that are fit for purpose, clearly and accurately labelled, and thoroughly tested.” •
