Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review February 2019

Page 48

PRESERVATIVES

Verdict:Not Guilty! Despite the paraben free trend, Botanichem’s Robyn Brown says parabens are still the ‘go to’. She shares her option and proof that confirms parabens are still the safest and best preservatives to use.

A

they appear do this weakly and as a result,

panel discussed concerns about the

a significant risk.

bioaccumulation potential of parabens

Concerns surrounding parabens first

noting, as lipid-soluble chemicals,

surfaced in 2004 when a report was

parabens may theoretically distribute

published referring to the concentration of

to tissues despite metabolism. Recent

parabens in human breast tumours. The

studies have demonstrated the presence

report suggested parabens in underarm

of parabens in human tissue, but there

deodorants and antiperspirants could

is no data showing parabens are

be absorbed into the skin and migrate to

metabolised to 4-hydroxybenzoic acid,

breast tissue.

which is considered safe under typical

The study was widely criticised by the scientific community due to the

use conditions. The key take out of this latest research is

fter years of being wrongfully

methodology used and how the conclusions

evidence shows parabens are safe for use

accused of being unsafe,

were reached. The problem with the study

at prescribed and current usage levels.

parabens have been cleared for

was no comparative analysis was carried

The reality is, damage has been done and

use by the Cosmetic Ingredient

Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The panel is made up of world-renowned dermatologists, toxicologists, chemists, consumer protection advocates and public health experts. In its latest review in September 2018, relating to the issue of whether parabens are safe for human use issued, the panel concluded there were 20 parabens,

Evidence shows parabens are safe for use at prescribed and current usage levels

including those most commonly used in cosmetics – methylparaben, propylparaben,

out on healthy tissue. If there had been

butylparaben and ethylparaben – which are

traces of paraben in healthy tissue, which

safe for use under present practices of use

has subsequently been proven, it would

and recommended concentrations.

have ruled out the link to breast cancer.

This conclusion is welcome news and will

In addition, parabens were detected

hopefully put an end to the speculation and

in the blank control samples used for the

debate regarding paraben safety.

study. This was explained as being due to

Parabens are among the most effective

contamination from the glassware. But, if

and safe preservatives for use in cosmetic

this was the case, why wasn’t the same

and skin care formulations. They have

conclusion reached for the detection of

more than 100 years’ history of safe usage

parabens in the breast tissue?¹

and have the lowest incident rate of skin problems in dermatological patients.

Proven safe to use Regardless of the questions raised about

A questionable study

the study’s integrity, it has dominated the

Alternatives to parabens are expensive and

debate on preservative choice and industry

can cause skin reactions. Skin care brands

usage for over a decade.

have been pressured into using alternatives

The latest review will hopefully restore

in order to allay the fears of their customers.

some confidence in the use of parabens,

Parabens have a chemical structure

though there remains some concern about

that is similar to estrogen and can mimic

the build-up of parabens in tissue over time

the effects of the hormone in the body. But

and the associated safety.

48

In its findings, the CIR expert

researchers never considered them

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

it will take some time to change industry and consumers’ perceptions. •

REFERENCES 1. www.cosmeticscef.com

Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za


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