5 minute read
The challenge of balancing the microbiota
For more than 10 years, exploration of the microbiota has been growing in scientific communities with the creation of the human microbiome project. It’s now time for a waypoint in this discovery. Anne-Sophie Dutailly, wesource product manager, Seppic beauty care, explores the changing vision on the microbiota.
For the cosmetics industry, the microbiota is associated with a holistic approach to beauty, where studies on the body and its microbiota have become central to health and well-being.
The development of future products takes into account respect for the skin microbiota and a new approach to certain skin disorders such as dandruff and oily, dry or sensitive skin.
Skin microbiome science is currently in its infancy and almost no standard models exist. Yet it is known that an imbalance in skin microbiota is associated with three major disorders:
1. dry skin
2. skin itching/redness
3. oily skin.
However, it is still unclear if unbalanced microbiota could be the cause of these
The only thing we can be sure of is that any modification on one targeted bacteria or mould will have an impact on the entire fragile ecosystem.
Most scientific studies are interested in analysing the diversity of the microbiota. However, we could question the relevance of these studies knowing the fickleness of the microbiome.
In vitro models are very limited given the complexity of the microbiota, the difficulty of co-cultivating several bacteria and controlling their interaction with skin models.
MILD MICROBIOTA BALANCE
Aware of all the scientific limits and constant evolution, wesource, the Seppic brand of active ingredients, took up the challenge of attaining microbiota balance with alternative solutions.
In partnership with external providers, we set up an in vitro innovative model aimed at studying the influence of the Cutibacterium acnes secretome on the barrier function of reconstructed epidermis. The concept was to measure the influence of one of our actives, Subligana, an extract of the Harungana madagascariensis tree, on the secretome issued by the bacteria and its effect on the skin without altering the C. acnes. It appeared that the C. acnes secretome had a deleterious effect on skin barrier and skin cohesion which Subligana was able to counteract by providing up to 65% protection (see Figure 1).
Figure 1: Subligana regulation of the harmful effects of Cutibacterium acnes secretome skin disorders, and the many related visible side effects.
Subligana has shown good properties on volunteers as it combines a soothing, antioxidant effect and visibly reduces imperfections, whilst decreasing whiteheads by 34% and blackheads by 37%. It additionally offers pore minimising benefits for an improved skin texture, which was perceived by 85% of the volunteers as compared to the benchmark at 55%.
A second in vitro model made it possible to study the biofilm of Staphylococcus aureus in the presence of Staphylococcus epidermidis on a reconstructed epidermis. The pathologies associated with S. aureus range from minor infections to invasive and potentially dangerous diseases. S. aureus infections of the skin, associated with skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis, occur in part through the development of a biofilm. In this model, we were able to demonstrate the effect of Equibiome on biofilm formation while respecting the bacterial balance (see Figure 2).
Figure 2: Equibiome regulation on S. Aureus and S. Epidermidis on biofilm formation
When tested on volunteers with very dry and/or sensitive skin, Equibiome targeted two of the major imbalances linked to the microbiota disorder. It improved the skin’s tolerance threshold to environmental stresses by reducing skin redness (60%) and stinging/burning sensations (20%) after 14 days versus the placebo. For better and longlasting skin comfort, Equibiome promotes skin moisturisation, which is evident in a 56% increase after 21 days versus the placebo.
Fluidipure 8G is a biomimetic multipurifying active agent, which offers complete protection of the skin. As a glycine and sugar biovector, Fluidipure 8G helps to regulate the proliferation of microorganisms responsible for cutaneous disorders or malodours while preserving bacteria beneficial to the skin. At a higher concentration, it regulates microorganisms responsible for formula
Beyond the active ingredients, all the ingredients in a formulation can potentially have an impact on the microbiota and Seppic has launched a process to characterise these.
SENSORIAL INGREDIENTS TO THE RESCUE
When it comes to microbiota balance, it’s not only the active ingredients that have to be considered, but also all formulation ingredients.
One of Seppic’s most famous emollients, Emogreen L19 was proven to be microbiota friendly. The emollient was tested at 10% in an o/w emulsion, which was applied on skin for 28 days. When compared to the same formula containing a classical oil (Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride), Emogreen L19 was able to improve the balance of very dry skin
microbiota (see Figure 3). This non-polar oil showed a capacity to increase the population of the Corynebacterium, Cutibacterium and Staphylococcus within the skin microbiota. These three genera are known to participate in the production of the hydrolipidic film, involved in skin hydration. Therefore an increase in the three species is in favour of a reconstituted hydrolipidic film, which is the first step to better skin hydration.
Figure 3: The impact of Emogreen L19 on the bacteria population within very dry skin microbiota, after 28 days
For Seppic, the microbiota study has far reaching implications beyond that of offering cosmetic solutions, it is a part of a holistic, global research programme that spans several areas of application including nutricosmetics and dermocosmetics and in providing a comprehensive supportive approach to the human body and its microbiome ecosystem.
The wesource portfolio of active ingredients is available in South Africa from CJP Chemicals, the appointed agent of Seppic.
REFERENCES:
Baldwin HE, Bhatia ND, Friedman A, Eng RM, Seite S. The role of cutaneous microbiota harmony in maintaining a functional skin barrier. J Drugs Dermatol. 2017;16(1):1218. Byrd AL, Belkaid Y, Segre JA. The human skin microbiome. Nat Rev Microbiol. 2018;16(3):143-155. Cogen AL, Nizet V, Gallo RL. Skin microbiota: a source of disease or defence? Br J Dermatol. 2008;158(3):442-55. Dréno B, Pécastaings S, Corvec S, Veraldi S, Khammari A, Roques C. Cutibacterium acnes (P. acnes) and acne vulgaris: a brief look at the latest updates. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2018;32 Suppl 2:5-14. Human Microbiome Project Consortium. A framework for human microbiome research. Nature. 2012a;486(7402):215-21. Lafforgue Christine, Skin & Microbiota - SFC Training 2018
CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za
Seppic – www.seppic.com/en
