The mindful microbiome

The human microbiome consists of a delicate balance of microflora that reside on our skin and in our bodies. If disrupted, skin disorders and inflammation can ensue until the balance is restored between good and harmful bacteria. As our mind and skin are connected, one affects the other. Just as our bodies need supplementation of nutrients, the microbiome requires a little extra care too.

Microbiome balance can be promoted by utilising the benefits naturally provided by probiotics. Probiotics are good microorganisms, or microorganism components, which provide health benefits to the host by encouraging the growth of good bacteria.

Probiotics is another name for “good bacteria”. Currently, because it is not regulated, the term probiotics means different things to different people. In food, probiotics typically mean a live bacteria. However, in cosmetics, because of the need for preservatives for an extended shelf life, there are rarely live bacteria in topical products. Instead, you will typically see “lysates” or “ferments” listed on the ingredients. The ones used in beauty are often either killed by heat or more often ground, which does not mean that they are not effective, but that they function differently from how probiotics act in food.

Prebiotics and postbiotics in skin care

It can be challenging to develop skin care products containing live probiotics because of the storage challenges they present. Alongside the lysates and ferments mentioned previously, other options for promoting a healthy skin microbiome include using prebiotics or postbiotics.

Prebiotics are nutrients that can only be used by good bacteria. They are usually special types of sugars or fibres. They are amazing ingredients because they will feed only the good bacteria already on the skin. This means that, not only can they help to lower inflammation and rebuild the skin barrier, but they also grow the good “bugs” and starve the bad ones. They are especially helpful if there is an overgrowth of bad bacteria, such as acne (where C. acnes is the culprit) or eczema (where S. aureus is linked to eczema). It is an innovative way to address these skin diseases.

Regarding postbiotics, they are a product of good bacteria which create a positive loop on the bacteria themselves. Lactic acid is a practical example. It is a natural product derived from Lactobacillus (a “friendly” bacteria) and it helps destroy the bad bacteria and create the perfect environment for good bacteria to flourish. It also smoothing and gently exfoliating.

Probiotics for a balanced microbiome

Probiotics were first recognised for balancing and protecting the gut’s microflora and supporting the immune system. Today, topical probiotics provide similar protective balance to the skin.

Probiotics promote healthy skin function by keeping the microbiome balanced and skin strong, healthy and age resistant. Calm skin can enhance self-esteem, decrease stress and influence our emotions. A calm mind can decrease inflammation, problem skin and keep the skin microbiome balanced.

Listed below are a series of ingredients recommended for a mindful microbiome. All these ingredients are available locally from Essential Specialised Products.

ACB Yogurt Dermal Respiratory Factor PF

ACB Yogurt Dermal Respiratory Factor PF is produced by prompting live Lactobacillus bulgaricus cells to secrete stress response elements by striking the Lactobacillus cells with specific wavelengths of UV radiation. Using bio-fermentation and various filtration techniques, the secretion is then isolated and extracted from the live bacteria cell to deliver various anti-ageing benefits and anti-irritant properties.

• INCI: Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Filtrate

• Benefits: soothing and enhances collagen production

• Use level: 2.0% to 0.5%

• Solubility: water soluble

ACB Yogurt Extract

Yogurt contains lactic acid bacteria. One of the main products produced by LAB is lactic acid. Lactic acid is a member of the alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which are known to have transformed the modern cosmetics industry. Instead of relying on statistics, consumers could literally feel and see an immediate difference in their skin when using products formulated with lactic acid. The results include a smooth, brighter complexion with a diminished appearance of unwanted wrinkles.

ACB Yogurt Extract is standardised to contain 15% to 20% lactic acid.

• INCI: Water and Yogurt Extract

• Benefits: moisturising and exfoliating

• Use levels: 1.0% to 5.0%

• Solubility: water soluble

Probacillus Revive

Designed to intensely renew and repair damaged skin, this probiotic ingredient is created by fermenting Lactobacillus bulgaricus cells in a unique media with soy-derived prebiotic components in order to optimise the growth conditions. This unique material has shown the ability to enhance cellular renewal, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and deeply moisturise the skin to reveal an even texture and calm skin.

• INCI: Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

• Benefits: increased cellular renewal, moisturisation and antioxidant activity

• Use level: 0.5% to 5.0%

• Solubility: water soluble

Leucidal SF Max

Leucidal® SF Max is derived from Lactobacillus acidophilus, a probiotic bacterium traditionally used to ferment milk into yogurt. Created by the fermentation of Lactobacillus in a defined growth medium, this specific manufacturing process yields a unique peptide with a moisturising benefit, antimicrobial activity and the ability to promote the balance of beneficial commensal microorganisms.

• INCI: Lactobacillus Ferment

• Benefits: promotes microbiome balance, moisturisation, anti-inflammation and antimicrobial

• Use levels: 2.0% to 4.0%

• Solubility: water soluble •