The rise of phytocannabinoids – from hype to powerful actives

The CBD beauty trend is booming. Recent scientific evidence suggests that CBD and other hemp phytocannabinoids exert valuable biological activities on skin cells and could be promising skin care ingredients. Greentech Group and Phytograde are working together to unlock the potential of CBD and other phytocannabinoids for dermocosmetics.

The main reason consumers are so willing to use CBD-based beauty products is that this ‘hot’ ingredient is perceived as safe, healthy and effective in delivering real benefits. This is according to a 2019 consumer study by the Benchmarking Company involving 7 000 people. Despite some persistent misunderstandings about CBD and hemp varieties, 61% of the study respondents said they do believe in the therapeutic properties of CBD and its ability to address cosmetic concerns (58%). Among those who currently do not use CBD products, 68% are willing to try them.

Overall, CBD is perceived as a ‘good-for-you’ ingredient. This resonates particularly well with the self-care trend that has emanated from the COVID-19 pandemic and propelled natural cosmetics into the spotlight to take care of one’s self, both physically and mentally.

HIGHLY-PURE CBD ISOLATE

Through their partnership, Greentech Group – represented locally by Natchem – and Phytograde – the European Cannabinoid Institute – are providing potent and safe hempderived and phytocannabinoid-based active ingredients, starting with CBD isolate of at least 98% purity. CBD doesn’t exert psychotropic activity unlike delta-9-tetrahydrocannabidiol (THC). Different types of CBD-containing hemp extracts are available for beauty and personal care applications, such as full spectrum and broad-spectrum extracts as well as an isolate. All three of these ingredients differ in terms of purity and CBD content.

The full-spectrum extract is rich in CBD and contains THC, terpenes and flavonoids. The broad-spectrum option does not contain THC.

CBD isolate is the most qualitative extract as it features at least 98% pure CBD and less than 0.2% THC. This extract ensures reliable safety and efficacy as well as convenient organoleptic properties making it easier to use. It is supplied as an odourless and tasteless white crystalline oil-soluble powder. CBD isolate is obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction followed by advanced purification and crystallisation to reach the required purity.

CBD BIOACTIVITIES IN SKIN

As a small lipidic molecule (314.46 Da), CBD is able to penetrate the skin under specific conditions and to interact with the endocannabinoid cutaneous system (ECS).1 The ECS is an evolutionary conserved network of molecular signalling involved in body homeostasis. It is made up of signalling molecules called endocannabinoids. The main ones are Anandamide (N-arachidonoyl ethanolamide) and 2-arachidonoyl glycerol, specific receptors (CB1, CB2) and enzymes that synthetise and break down endocannabinoids.1

There is extensive data from research on the functions of the ECS in the modulation of the central nervous system and immune system. Recent research has raised evidence of ECS’s critical role in skin homeostasis and barrier function. Its dysregulation has been linked to various skin concerns like acne, itching, atopic dermatitis and pigmentary disorders.1

As a phytocannabinoid, similar to endocannabinoids, CBD can interact with the endocannabinoid cutaneous system when applied topically. In vitro, CBD was found to be a CB1 antagonist and a CB2 inverse agonist.2 It has also been described as an inhibitor of fatty acid amide hydrolase – an enzyme involved in the degradation of anandamide.3

Several biological activities of CBD have been demonstrated, with the anti-inflammatory activity being described the most. In vitro studies on skin cells showed that CBD decreased UVinduced inflammation, probably by activating PPAR-γ and reducing NF-kB pathways. It also reduced TNF-alpha-induced inflammation and decreased prostaglandin synthase activity and thus prostaglandin formation.4 Based on this data, it has been suggested that CBD could be a promising ingredient to treat inflammatory skin conditions such as psoriasis or atopic dermatitis.5

Acne and seborrheic dermatitis could be also promising areas for topical CBD products as the ECS plays a significant role in lipogenesis. In vitro studies on sebocytes and ex vivo studies on fullthickness human skin organ cultures showed CBD exerted a lipostatic effect and proliferationsuppressing effect on sebocytes, along with anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects.6, 7, 8

CBD also appears to be interesting in the prevention of skin ageing, which is a leading cosmetic application. It is proven in vitro that CBD stimulates the Nrf2-mediated antioxidant system, counteracting UV-induced oxidative stress. In fibroblasts, CBD was shown to increase proteins involved in the dermalepidermal junction, as well as fibroblastmatrix interactions and signal transduction.4 It also decreased the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-9, MMP- 13), preventing matrix and dermal-epidermal junction degradation.

Overall, in vitro and ex vivo studies have demonstrated that CBD could exert multiple beneficial properties, bringing scientific evidence to support the positive perception of consumers. However, more studies are needed to gain a better understanding of CBD’s complex mechanisms of action and clinical efficacy. Greentech Group and Phytograde are committed to bringing the industry such evidence in the near future.

More studies are needed to gain a better understanding of CBD’s complex mechanisms of action and clinical efficacy

JOINT RESEARCH PROJECT

There are more than 100 phytocannabinoids identified in hemp which could deliver specific therapeutic properties, depending on their ability to interact with the ECS. Of those 100 molecules, interest is growing in cannabigerol (CBG), cannabinol (CBN), cannabigevarine (CBGV) etc.

Through their combined research, the R&D teams of Greentech Group and Phytograde hope to increase knowledge on these and other phytocannabinoid molecules and to unlock their full potential as valuable natural active ingredients for cosmetics, dermocosmetics and nutraceuticals.

QUALITY AND TRACEABILITY

Non-GMO industrial hemp Cannabis sativa L. crops are used to produce CBD isolate and only cultivars authorised by the French regulation are processed. These carefully selected cultivars naturally feature ≥ 20% of CBD and < 0.2% THC. The CBD isolate is subjected to rigorous in-house and third-party laboratory analysis, to guarantee the high quality, traceability and safety of the product in compliance with regulatory standards.

The crops are located in Latin America, in the Antioquia region of Colombia. The area has a natural 12-hour year-long photoperiod which makes it possible to have four culture cycles per year without the need for artificial light and minimises environmental impact.

The crops are located at an altitude of more than 2 000m in order to benefit from the most fertile, richest and unpolluted soils. This is critical as hemp can bioaccumulate heavy metals.

Sustainable cultivation is ensured by rigorously selecting hemp producers who combine a high level of biodiversity with environmentally-friendly practices that preserve natural resources. Measures such as educational support have also been implemented in the region to benefit the communities and improve their quality of life. •