4 minute read
Add to your clean beauty basket with coco-caprylate/caprate
Clean beauty is evolving with brand transparency now a key requirement of this movement. In support of the needs of clean beauty brands and their consumers, Vantage Specialty Chemicals offers Liponate CCC MB as a 100% naturally-derived alternative to silicone oils. By Kim MacCallum
The demand for clean is dovetailed with the rise of the broader wellness movement, specifically clean-eating lifestyles, which embrace unrefined and minimally processed foods. It has also been fuelled by growing awareness of the tougher regulations that govern cosmetics in other parts of the world. The European Union, for instance, has banned approximately 1 300 chemicals in cosmetics, a category that covers makeup, lotions, hair dyes, deodorant, nail polish, shaving cream and other beauty products. Consumers are increasingly attracted to clean beauty, staying away from at-risk ingredients and so-called ‘no-no’ lists. Silicones are included in these lists. Not only is clean beauty a growing demand but so is sustainable beauty. Vantage Specialty Chemicals has been a certified member of the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) since 2014 and is committed to achieving certification for a large selection of its products.
RSPO has set up two certification systems:
1. producer/grower certification to ensure palm oil is produced sustainably
2. principles and criteria certification to ensure the integrity of the trade in sustainable palm oil, i.e. that palm oil sold as sustainable palm oil has indeed been produced by certified plantations.
Did you know?
A quick Google search of coco-caprylate/caprate is quite reassuring, as you’ll find it is listed as a good choice on clean beauty websites, such as EWG.org and Paulaschoice.com.
GOOD ALTERNATIVE TO SILICONES
Silicone-free claims have surged over the past five years. As a result, brands are looking at naturally-derived alternatives to replace a broad array of silicone oils, such as dimethicone, and cyclopentasiloxane.
Within the new regulatory landscape, on 10 January 2018, silicones such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) were added to REACH annex XVII restricted substances list (entry 70) by Commission Regulation (EU) 2018/35.
This means D4 and D5 shall not be placed on the market in wash-off cosmetic products in a concentration equal to or greater than 0.1% by weight of either substance. (application date: 31 January 2020)
The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) is working on additional proposals to restrict D4 and D5 in leave-on personal care products and other consumer/ professional products.
As a leading supplier of specialty emollients, Vantage created Liponate CCC MB (coco-caprylate/caprate – mass balance RSPO certified) as an alternative to silicone oils. Liponate CCC MB is a fast-spreading emollient ester that provides a dry, velvety and smooth skin feel similar to the sensory feel of silicones, particularly low viscosity dimethicone. This dry-feel emollient ester fits perfectly in the clean beauty basket as it is COSMOS natural certified and of 100% natural origin.
SUPERIOR TO THE STANDARD OFFERING
Liponate CCC MB is not your standard coco-caprylate/caprate. Analysis of the high molecule chain length distribution compared to existing coco-caprylate/ caprate emollients, show Liponate CCC MB exhibits the lowest amount of long chains (C22 and larger).
This composition differentiates Vantage’s product by giving it fast-spreading, light touch and powdery characteristics, making Liponate CCC MB a great candidate for makeup and sun care formulations. The results of the comparison are featured in Figure 1.
Double blind sensory evaluations were conducted on Liponate CCC MB and other popular silicones and esters and the results were highly comparable, often resulting in better absorption.
A moisturisation study was conducted using two formulations – one with 11% Liponate CCC MB and the other with 11% dimethicone versus untreated skin. Liponate CCC MB offered a 240% increase in moisturisation versus dimethicone when measured over a six-hour period.
It has been rumoured that as cococaprylate/caprate presents a high level of biocompatibility with skin, giving it the ability to penetrate skin, helping it to repair itself.
EXCELLENT FOR HAIR CARE
As silicones are also popular in hair care applications, we did not stop at skin care and chose to also conduct a hair care analysis.
In a hair tress study, five tresses were prewashed with a 10% SLES solution and combability measured pre- and post-treatment. Compared to the placebo – Liponate CC MB provided a 39% reduction in comb work and a 22% reduction versus D5 silicone.
On dry hair, Liponate CCC MB provided combing improvement as well as shine similar to that of D5 silicone. It also offered a 58% increase in protection when using a straight iron at 230°C.
These results demonstrate that Liponate CCC MB is a perfect, all round clean beauty ingredient for skin and hair care applications. It has good compatibility with pigments and mineral and organic sun filters. It is ISO16128 compliant, 100% naturally derived, COSMOS natural approved and RSPO MB certified. The ingredient can be used with oil-free and silicone-free claims and offers excellent heat stability. •
