Ramp up summer beauty with safe and responsible sun protection

Sunscreens are a hot topic at the moment, with brands having to formulate new products for the summer season. Yet formulators are left perplexed by the uncertainty around the negative impacts of UV filters on humans and the environment. Jacques Strydom, technical manager at AECI Specialty Chemicals, highlights the benefits of sunscreens, reviews some of the concerns and offers a solution to formulators and brands.

It has been known for many years that overexposure to the sun’s ultraviolet radiation not only causes premature skin ageing, but also plays a vital role in the development of certain types of skin cancers. UV radiation is a proven cause of basal cell carcinoma (BCC)and squamous cell carcinoma (SCC), which often appear on sun-exposed areas of skin. Furthermore, the level of UV exposure that typically leads to sunburn has been proven to play a strong role in developing melanoma, the most dangerous of the three most common types of skin cancer.

It is for this reason that authorities and cancer foundations have been advising the public to use high SPF sunscreens when going to the beach or on hikes where long exposure to the sun is to be expected. However, there is another side to the sunscreen coin. This is the uncertainty regarding the potential effects of long-term sunscreen usage on the human biology.

Sunscreens can be either organic or inorganic and the ones that are under scrutiny are the organic, lipophilic sunscreens, like octocrylene, which protect the skin by absorbing UVA and UVB energy. Researchers are concerned about the considerable bioavailability of organic UV filters due to their absorption into the skin as well as the uncertain role they might play in endocrine disruption. Furthermore, researchers and environmentalists are concerned about the effects that consumer chemicals may have on marine life in particular, which has also warranted studies on the role organic sunscreens may play in this regard. Much of this evidence is based on small-scale laboratory observations or small groups of human participants, but certainly raises uncertainty in the industry and for consumers.

BOOSTING PROTECTION PERFORMANCE

According to Richard Weller, honorary consultant dermatologist at the University of Edinburgh: “any conversation on sunscreen must start with acknowledging that there is robust evidence that it prevents skin cancer”.

Perhaps we can start by optimising the use of sunscreens so that less sun filters are used in a formulation to achieve high sun protection efficacy. One way of accomplishing this is to use SPF boosters, which typically enhance the ability of a sun filter to absorb UV radiation through mechanisms of homogenous dispersion of UV filters or a light scattering mechanism, which increases the probability of the UV ray being absorbed by the sun filter.

SUNSPHERES BIO SPF BOOSTER

Dow offers a solution that addresses the abovementioned concerns, calledSunSpheres Bio SPF booster. This material is a high performing, naturally derived and readily biodegradable SPF booster, which demonstrates SPF-boosting performance at use levels as low as 1% and up to 3%. With an attractive INCI name of MicrocrystallineCellulose, this material brings something novel to the sun care market as it’s not only sustainable, but also highly efficacious. This has been validated in in vitro and in vivo SPF studies.

Meant to be used with organic or inorganic UV filters, SunSpheres Bio SPF booster is a versatile, multifunctional ingredient that delivers stabilising, thickening and shear thinning properties in your formulations. This means the material provides SPF boosting with the added benefit of viscosity enhancement. Ultimately, it’s use could result in a reduction of rheology modifiers in your existing formulation coupled with a reduction in UV filters to achieve the same SPF as before.

IMPRESSIVE TEST RESULTS

The results of the in vivo test on SunSpheresBio SPF booster in an o/w sunscreen formulation that contained organic UV filters showed 1.5% of the material roughly increased the formulation’s SPF score by 50%, which is extremely impressive.

When paired with a film former like Epitex 99from Dow, an amazing sunscreen formulation can be attained with non-tacky and non-greasy aesthetics. The job of the film former is to turn the o/w formulation into one that repels water and sweat. It also makes the formulation last much longer on the skin, for extended protection and less reapplication of the sunscreen. •

SUNSPHERES BIO SPF BOOSTER FOR EFFICIENT SUN CARE FORMULATIONS:

• bio-derived SPF booster from FSCcertified wood pulp

• 97% natural content (ISO 16128)

• readily biodegradable

• safe for the oceans

• for use with organic and inorganic UV filters

• recommended use level of 1% to 3%

• validated performance — SPF in vitro and in vivo tested

• exhibits stabilising, thickening and shear thinning properties

• listed in catalogue of cosmetic ingredients in China

• INCI: Microcrystalline Cellulose.

AECI Specialty Chemicals – jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com

Dow – www.dow.com