YOUR PLACE by SUDDENLY Queensland

Rediscover Queensland

YOURPLACE COASTAL FRINGE A beach drive for the bucket list

BEAUTIFUL CREATURES Up close with our wildest inhabitants

MAKING MEMORIES Family adventures on the Reef

AUSTRALIA

Visit Brisbane to enjoy Australia’s biggest free festive event! With fireworks, animations, festive feasts and Queensland’s best Christmas shopping experience, you’ll be guaranteed a very merry time! LIGHTING OF THE CHRISTMAS TREE 25 NOVEMBER

THE LORD MAYOR’S CHRISTMAS CAROLS 9 DECEMBER

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GOLD LOTTO CITY HALL LIGHTS 8 - 24 DECEMBER

CHRISTMAS PARADE PRESENTED BY DAVID JONES 15 - 24 DECEMBER

YOUR PLACE OCTOBER 2017

Inside Welcome

State of wonder

Making memories on the Great Barrier Reef

8 Line in the sand Four-wheel drive fun on the Great Beach Drive

s proud Queenslanders, we love our spectacular state – its stunning beaches, magnificent national parks and great characters. And there’s always so much more to see. In this issue of Your Place, you’re invited to uncover your next holiday destination. Maybe it’s time to get acquainted with the locals at a classic country pub, or head off-road on one of the world’s great coastal drives. Grab the family and head for the Great Barrier Reef, where passionate protectors of this natural wonder will guide you through life-changing encounters with our precious marine life. Discover Brisbane’s incredible indigenous artworks or find the perfect campsite for you. All of us, from every corner of Queensland, have so many choices, and you can read about many of them here – we hope you feel inspired to go forth and explore.

11 Tales of the city Exploring Brisbane’s inspired indigenous art

12 Wild at heart Close encounters with incredible creatures

15 Peak performers National parks you need to see

16 Heart and soul Meet the locals at our favourite country pubs

17 Fun factor What’s new at the Gold Coast’s theme parks

19 Canvas castaways

Camping along the Queensland coast

20 In the zone

Visit the venues for the Gold Coast 2018 Commonwealth Games

22 It’s Live! In Queensland Diary dates from across the state

On the cover Off-roading at Indian Head on Fraser Island (see page 8).

The Team Editor: Jane Scott Designer: Lameze Hendricks, Barbara la Grange Produced by News Corp Studios for Tourism and Events Queensland

www.newscorpstudiosqld.com.au

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Cape Hillsborough, Mackay Region YOUR (see page PLACE 12)3

State of wonder It is one of the world’s great natural treasures and Tiana Templeman knows just how to create family memories on Queensland’s Great Barrier Reef

ueensland’s Great Barrier Reef is a globally recognised natural wonder that is visible from space and it is right here in our own backyard. For families, there are myriad ways to experience the reef, whatever your budget or your approach to travel. From luxury resorts to floating campsites, day trips and easily accessible islands, the reef can be experienced by everyone, and the impact can be life-changing. That was the case for marine biologist Fiona Merida, the tourism and stewardship manager at the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority, who first visited the reef with her family in 1985. “My new favourite place had been found and my curiosity was ignited,” Fiona says. “We only took four photos that day because we were too busy making memories.” More than 30 years later, the Great Barrier Reef continues to inspire a sense of wonder that brings families together, in the knowledge that every visit contributes to this icon’s survival. “Parents and children connect in a way that they don’t get a chance to in the regular world as they are sharing experiences on the same level,” explains Fiona. “Everybody who goes to the reef reverts to childlike wonder.” With so many different ways to experience the Great Barrier Reef, your biggest challenge will be deciding which trip to do first. Choose an adventure, grab your family and dive in.

REEFSLEEP Take two true blue Australian travel experiences – camping and the Great Barrier Reef – and combine them for an unforgettable family adventure

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at Reefsleep, an overnight camping experience on the Reefworld pontoon in The Whitsundays. “Visiting the Great Barrier Reef is not just about what is under the water. It is also about the sky, the birds, the moon on the water and simply being out in the middle of the ocean,” says Fiona, and she’s right. As soon as the day trippers depart for shore at 3pm, Reefsleepers pull on stinger suits and slip into the ocean alongside Hardy Reef, where schools of tiny squid zip past snorkellers’ masks as they explore coral gardens sparkling with jewel bright fish. The race is on to be the first to spot Chip, the pontoon’s resident turtle, who also prefers swimming without the crowds. As the sun spreads its deep orange glow across the ocean, guests sit down to enjoy a three-course barbecue dinner and watch giant trevally leap out of the water in hot pursuit of bait fish. After dinner, the night is spent in two-person swags (ensuring kids can share with a parent, a sibling or bunker down solo). Reefsleep is open to children aged 12 years and older (and adults of course) and can be reached from Airlie Beach and Hamilton Island.

LIZARD ISLAND Previously the destination of choice solely for wealthy couples and honeymooners, Lizard Island’s only resort now welcomes guests as young as six in the July and September school holidays. Limited to just 82 guests, this secluded outpost is an hour’s flight north of Cairns by charter plane. Kids (and their parents) can explore secluded bays in a tinny, go fishing on the outer reef or snorkel over clams large enough to hide a mermaid in

“Everyone who goes to the reef reverts to childlike wonder” Fiona Merida marine biologist the sheltered waters of Watsons Bay. With the promise of cerulean skies and stunning scenery above the waterline, and brightly coloured coral and tropical fish below, the resort’s junior ranger school holiday program offers plenty to keep children aged six to 12 entertained, from sand castle building competitions to pirate treasure hunts and becoming a marine biologist for the day. While the kids are having fun, parents can slip away for a romantic picnic and an afternoon spent exploring the island’s hidden coves. If you’re looking to splurge, Lizard Island delivers, but numbers are tightly limited so book well in advance.

SUNLOVER REEF CRUISES Spot turtles from the top of a two-

storey waterslide at Sunlover Reef Cruises’ new Moore Reef Pontoon, which offers a fun, educational day out on the Great Barrier Reef. While you’re having fun, it’s good to know that, like all tourism operators on the reef, Sunlover collects and submits an Environmental Management Charge for each guest, which is used for reef research and conservation. “The Great Barrier Reef is a wonder of the world and as a tourism operator, we want to look after it for future generations,” says Eugene Kotze, group general manager of Sunlover Reef Cruises. “Everyone who buys a ticket to see the Great Barrier Reef is also contributing to its upkeep.” While looking after the reef is a serious business, this tour is nothing but fun. After a zippy two-hour trip from Cairns via high-speed catamaran, visitors plunge into the ocean to discover clown fish peeking out of the reef drop-off and delicate

MARINE MARVEL Budding marine biologists will be fascinated by coral spawning, an annual event on the Great Barrier Reef. “When it comes to studying coral spawning, you’ve only got one shot at it,” says Dr Petra Lundgren, science program manager at the Great Barrier Reef Foundation. One night each year, corals release egg and sperm bundles into the ocean, creating a floating wonderland of tiny white, yellow, red, and orange dots. It’s a phenomenon scientists are still trying to understand. “We just have to sit and watch and wait for it to happen,” Dr Lundgren says. A green turtle on the Great Barrier Reef; ready to snorkel off the Moore Reef Pontoon, below left

fan coral shimmering in the sunshine. With four hours to explore the reef, there is no need to rush. Children giggle as they hold slippery sea cucumbers and marvel at how hard a starfish is during an educational marine touch tank experience. In the underwater observatory,

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hundreds of brightly coloured fish and a passing parade of divers keep guests entertained. After a tasty smorgasbord lunch of prawns, salads, stir-fries and tropical fruit, there is time for fish feeding, a semi-submersible ride and glass-bottom boat tour before the trip back to Cairns.

HERON ISLAND

directly off the beach at Shark Bay and the Gantry, with free lessons provided in the resort pool each day. The resort is accessible by boat or seaplane from Gladstone.

With no mobile phone reception and no TVs, Heron Island Resort is an opportunity to disconnect from the world and reconnect with each other. Clutching masks and fins, families clamber aboard a boat to discover why Jacques Cousteau listed Heron Bommie as one of his top 10 favourite dive sites in the world. Happily, they don’t need to venture far to find it. There are 21 world class dive sites, including Heron Bommie, less than 15 minutes from Heron Island by boat. Guests follow a marine biologist into the water and drift with the current, gliding over a variety of soft and hard corals teeming with tropical fish and spotting one turtle after another – Heron Island is a breeding area for these gentle creatures which nest on the island from November to February. There is a minimum age of eight years for Heron Island boat tours; less experienced snorkellers can practice

It takes just 45 minutes to reach Green Island from Cairns, making it the perfect option for families who are on the reef for a good time, not a long time. This rainforest-cloaked coral cay is the ideal spot for young children to learn to snorkel as it is possible to walk straight off the beach to discover friendly tropical fish and turtles hiding in the sea grass. Most people visit Green Island on a day trip but it is also possible to stay overnight at the island’s resort, where guests enjoy complimentary activities such as snorkelling, glass-bottom boat tours, guided walks, free sunset drinks and stargazing after dinner. cruisewhitsundays.com/great-barrierreef-experiences/reefsleep; lizardisland.com.au; sunlover.com.au; heronisland.com; greenislandresort.com.au n

GREEN ISLAND

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Off-roading on Fraser Island’s 75 Mile Beach

“I

reckon there’s a three-week holiday in even just an hour’s drive out here,” Noosa local surfing legend Tim Mitchell says as he shifts his eyes between the road ahead – a stretch of sand that goes all the way to the horizon – and a blue, empty ocean. Fraser Island ranger Ann Bauer says it’s the ease with which you can escape the outside world that makes this drive so much different: “There’s no emails, no reception, just fresh air, wide open spaces, whales and dolphins in the sea beside you and birds of prey above you,” she says. Queensland’s Great Beach Drive is one of the longest beach drives on Earth. But where it differs from other iconic ocean drives (such as Victoria’s Great Ocean Road) is that this one requires you to travel almost entirely on the beach – from the north shore of Noosa, right along Fraser Island and beyond it to Hervey Bay, finishing in the quirky sailing hamlet of Tin Can Bay. Identified as a route in its own right in 2015, the drive takes in two UNESCO Biosphere Reserves and the largest sand island in the world: Fraser Island. Where adventures like this one were once the domain of roughand-ready Aussie blokes with trusty LandCruisers, the Great Beach Drive, strictly limited to 4WDs, is increasingly popular with those who have time to explore at their leisure, outside busy school holiday periods. It helps that this is a route that can be as challenging as you choose it to be. You can go it alone – using your own 4WD, or hiring a specially equipped 4WD – or choose tour options which take in as much of the 380km-long trail as you have time to see. And there are many accommodation options along the way – from camping under the stars, to luxury resorts. The Great Beach Drive starts on the outskirts of Noosa. I take a slowmoving, decades-old car ferry across the river at Tewantin, on Noosa’s northern beaches. With the buzz of one of

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Line in the sand Craig Tansley discovers what makes Queensland’s Great Beach Drive one of the world’s great 4WD journeys

Queensland’s trendiest tourist towns behind us, peace reigns, but excitement levels are rising in anticipation of the adventure ahead. We drive through coastal forest until we reach a wide, white sandy beach that doubles as the highway in these parts (there are even speed limit signs on trees). Birds of prey including brahminy kites and white-bellied sea eagles circle above us while a handful of fishermen cast lines from the shore as we pass. The beach continues for 70km to Inskip Point. I’m expecting kilometre-

"There’s no emails, no reception, just whales and dolphins in the sea beside you and birds of prey above you" Ann Bauer, Fraser Island ranger after-kilometre of featureless, open beach but instead find sheltered bays where a handful of hardy surfers take to head-high waves

wrapping around rocky headlands at some of the longest wave breaks in the country. At Double Island Point – which looks across the sea to Fraser Island – there’s a 130-year-old lighthouse that guides ships along the east coast. Beside it, Rainbow Beach has barely changed from the old fishing village it’s always been. Generations of families come here each year to camp and try harder and harder each time to keep this place a secret. On the village’s outskirts I drive past tall sandy cliffs (called the Coloured Sands) where locals say you can

GREAT BEACH DRIVE

Hervey Bay Fraser Island Tin Can Bay Rainbow Beach Noosa Heads

STARTS: Noosa Heads ENDS: Tin Can Bay DURATION: Six days DISTANCE: 380km

count 72 shades of red, yellow, orange and ochre. If you’re travelling here between July and November you’re bound to see migrating humpback whales, though you’ll always see pods of dolphins and manta rays. We catch the car ferry across to Fraser Island - one of the worlds’ best 4WD destinations, bar none. “I’ve been working on Fraser Island since 2007 and I reckon I’ve driven it maybe 2500 times,” 4WD guide Craig Taylor says. “I’m not sick of it yet, there’s always a surprise around the next bend.” For starters, light aircraft use the beach as a landing strip. To break up my journey, and for an aerial perspective, I take a scenic flight from the beach. From the air, I see there are as many natural features in the island’s interior, easily accessible via rugged 4WD tracks off the beach. There’s 123km of coastline to explore, but we’re always detouring – bouncing through coastal rainforest to find lakes and waterholes. My favourite is Lake Mackenzie, it’s the blue of a tropical lagoon and the water’s so pristine you’re asked to avoid wearing sunscreen when you swim in it. Then I trek 20 minutes through

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the scrub to Wabby Creek, surrounded by towering sand dunes up to 50m high. Further north - past Indian Head where I straddle the point and can see almost across the entire island – I leave my 4WD to bathe in pools created at low tide when water from the sea is trapped in a series of large volcanic rock pools, at a place called Champagne Pools. Not far from here you can see the wreck of the SS Maheno that washed up 80 years ago. There’s also the Sandy Cape lighthouse where Europeans first settled the island in 1870. “I lived on Fraser Island for more than 10 years and spent all my days off out exploring,” former local guide Gen Berry says. “We’d finish our shift and take off in a 4WD until we had to come back to work a couple of days later. We never ran out of options.” The beauty of the Great Beach Drive is that you can break the journey up, staying in low-impact resorts such as Kingfisher Bay on Fraser Island. I join in on their Bush Tucker Talk & Taste evening,

where rangers offer up local bush tucker to get you in tune with your surroundings. But the drive doesn’t end on Fraser Island. We take a car ferry back to the mainland and drive to the town of Hervey Bay, before heading south on deserted roads between Hervey Bay and Tin Can Bay. We drive beside the Great Sandy Strait – inside the UNESCO-listed Great Sandy Biosphere. I’m intrigued by this section of the road because it’s still so unknown, yet this waterway rivals any in Australia for the sheltered bays and white sandy beaches it offers visitors. This region is also one of Australia’s most diverse ecosystems, with more than 7000 species of flora and fauna and half of Australia’s bird species. As we drive we look out on turtles and dolphins on the waterway – keep your eyes peeled too, you might see the endangered dugong, a long-time resident here. thediscoverygroup.com.au; fraserexplorertours.com.au; npsr.qld.gov.au, airfraserisland.com.au; kingfisherbay.com n

SAFETY FIRST Fraser Island 4WD guide Ash Berry has advice for those tackling the Great Beach Drive. 1. Choose a 4WD with adequate clearance. You’ll need it up here. 2. Make sure you are in 4WD mode. Obvious? Yet people forget all the time. Turn your hubs and select 4WD. 3. Let air out of your tyres once on the sand. Always have a pressure gauge. 4. Be in the right gear before you hit a tricky situation, keep your revs up and momentum going - and don’t stop. 5. Don’t drive along any beach without a knowledge of the tides – high tide will leave you a lot less beach to drive on. 6. Observe Australian road rules including speed limits. 7. Always watch for others, especially children.

Off-road on the sandy tracks of Fraser Island

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COME TO LIFE ON QUEENSLANDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

SUNSHINE COAST

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Brisbane Greeter Rob Cochrane at the Pillars Project; Fiona Foley’s Black Opium, below

“We have looped and meandered around South Bank and the city centre for a couple of hours, with every corner revealing its own small story. The city will never seem the same again”

Tales of the city A customised tour of Brisbane gives local Lee Mylne a new perspective on the city’s indigenous heritage

ook up. Look down. That’s the mantra I follow now when I walk the streets of Brisbane. The city’s stories reveal themselves in unexpected ways and places – when you remember to look. Landmarks that warrant a cursory glance as you pass by can reveal amazing and sometimes shocking stories. The arcades and alleys, nooks and crannies, pillars and posts of Brisbane hold plenty of secrets, as I discover on a guided walk with Brisbane Greeters. I meet my guide, Donella, outside the Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA) at South Bank near Tow Row, a large bronze sculpture by Judy Watson that represents a traditional woven fishing net used by the indigenous people of Brisbane. Donella is one of more than 100 volunteer Greeters who offer free small-group walking tours covering themes such as heritage, cultural attractions, sport, education and science, early settlement and penal history, and wartime history. Greeters can even create a bespoke itinerary for you – brief them and they’ll come up with a plan. Keen to discover more about the

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city’s indigenous history, I’ve chosen a tour that explores the city with a focus on its Aboriginal public art. “Think of the 60 minutes on a clock as the 60,000 years that Aboriginal people have been on this land; then realise that Europeans have only been here for 11 seconds,” says Donella, as we set out. That puts it into perspective nicely. Next is the State Library of Queensland, with Fiona Foley’s fascinating overhead installation, Black Opium. Set through seven small rooms along the corridor leading to the John Oxley Library, it speaks of

a time – until 1897 – when Aboriginal people were often paid in opium, with disastrous consequences. “Make sure you look up in the rooms,” says Donella. I do, with rewards: 300 gold Bodhi leaves, 777 pewter opium poppies, and more. Lilla Watson’s Kurilpa Country makes a statement at the entrance to Kuril Dhagun, the library’s Indigenous Knowledge Centre. This part of Brisbane is known as the habitat of the kuril, a marsupial rat sometimes still seen around the riverbank. At the neighbouring Queensland Art Gallery, the Australian Collection

brings Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander, historic and contemporary Australian collections together. Hitting the streets, we head deeper into South Brisbane for the vibrant and colourful Pillars Project – 10 concrete pillars under the rail bridge on Merivale St have been painted by some of Brisbane’s top street artists. Depicting life in South Brisbane, some have strong indigenous themes. There are plans for one new painting each year. South Brisbane is also home to one of Brisbane’s newest galleries. The Henderson Gallery is owned by artist Robert Henderson, whose works are inspired by his Wiradyuri culture and history, and also showcases the works of young artists. There’s a coffee shop, perfect for a pause in your exploration. In the city, our first stop is the Brisbane Magistrates Court foyer, dominated by another Judy Watson work. Behind the building, there’s more Foley. Witnessing to Silence tells the story of the 94 massacres of indigenous people that took place during some of the darkest days of Queensland’s history. Leaving the court precinct behind, Donella leads me the length of Queen St to No. 480 where we ride the escalators up past a giant, 350sq m glass tile rainforest mural, by Danie Mellor, featuring birds, koalas, possums and other creatures. At the top is another surprise as I find myself in Hobbs Park, the city’s first elevated public park within an office building, an open space with fantastic views of the Story Bridge. We have looped and meandered around South Bank and the city centre for a couple of hours, with every corner revealing its own small story. The city will never seem the same again. brisbanegreeters.com.au n

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Wild at heart Nothing beats an encounter with animals in their natural habitat. Craig Tansley gets up close with beautiful creatures across Queensland

ou can stay at romantic highend hotels, or eat at fancy restaurants overlooking the sea; but nothing will ever beat an encounter with a wild creature while on holiday. That’s because nature rarely runs to a timetable, so encountering some of the most unique creatures on Earth is a rare privilege that’s on every traveller’s bucket list. We look at four Queensland destinations where you are most likely to encounter magnificent Australian fauna.

CAPE HILLSBOROUGH Each morning at sunrise, they’re here, and they’re back in time for sunset: snacking on seaweed and mangrove sea pods. Cape Hillsborough is the one place in Australia you can always count on seeing wallabies (and a few kangaroos) on the beach; making for the most quintessentially Aussie of all holiday experiences (wallabies, beaches … what more could you need?). And if you visit every dawn and dusk you’ll soon get to know the ‘locals’.

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“Every wallaby and kangaroo has their own personality, and there are new additions every season so it’s almost like watching your own family grow,” Cape Hillsborough Nature Tourist Park owner Renae Atherton says. “You’ve got the poser, the family clown, you’ve got sibling rivalry and the joey’s first day on the beach where mum won’t allow it to return to the pouch.” Encircling a volcanic headland 45 minutes’ drive north of Mackay, Cape Hillsborough is where the rainforest meets the Coral Sea. There are walking trails all across the cape, around a headland of eucalypts and hoop pine where you’ll see more butterflies than you can believe. “The rapid temperature change from cool, crisp mornings to balmy days and back again brings them out in their thousands,” Renae says. “There are so many that you’re terrified you’re going to step on one.” And as you watch wallabies feeding on the beach between the months of June and October, you’ll almost

Snorkelling off Heron Island

every day see migrating humpback whales just a few hundred metres from the shore.

HERON ISLAND RESORT I’ve only just got on the boat and the snorkelling guide is yelling at me to get off again. “Jump,” he screams. Fair enough too: there are four enormous manta rays swimming beside us,

between them they’re the size of our vessel. I leap into the ocean and spend the next 20 minutes shadowing the creatures, who don’t seem to mind me being there at all. Heron Island, just off the coast of Gladstone, is one of the best places in Australia to see this sort of marine life because it’s located in a group of islands on the southern end of the

“You’re within a metre of a wild dolphin. People cheer and some have tears in their eyes. These dolphins have never been in captivity, they’re wild” Tessa Horgan, eco ranger

Meeting the dolphins at Tangalooma Island Resort

Agile wallabies on the beach at Cape Hillsborough, near Mackay

Great Barrier Reef. Which means you don’t have to get on to a boat to see marine creatures, you simply step out of your resort. There’s everything from green, loggerhead and hawksbill turtles, all types of harmless reef sharks … even humpback whales during August and September; but the manta rays who visit year round and in larger numbers during winter, are the stars. “My favourite experience here was cruising with a huge manta for over half an hour till I was like a prune,” naturalist guide Rachael Jones says. “Though snorkelling with eight two-metre-long lemon sharks in knee-deep water at sunrise wasn’t bad either.” For the three days I stay, I’m stunned by the number of marine species who visit; you don’t even have to be in the water to see them. Walking round the tiny island with former naturalist guide Sara Keltie is like an exercise in animal whispering. “Ooh, you’re so cute,” she shouts as two baby shovel-nosed sharks shuffle by. “Look,” she calls out as

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a baby black-tip reef shark swims past. And at night, huge turtles swim beneath the lights at the resort’s jetty, providing a heck of an alternative to TV. There’s also a research station next to the resort you can visit. “No day’s the same out here,” research station education officer Lauren Bailey says. “I’m constantly surprised by the creatures I see.”

MON REPOS TURTLE CENTRE It’s just after sunset and a group of visitors are walking along a beach with just stars lighting their way. As quietly as she can, the ranger signals for us to stop. Just a few metres away, a loggerhead turtle is digging itself a comfortable nest. In a few moments, she lays her eggs as we look on. “Watching the turtle dig for about 15 minutes creating an egg chamber purely by feel, that’s a genuine ancient mariner moment to experience,” ranger Cathy Gatley says. “Only one in a thousand hatchlings survive to maturity so the experience of watching one of the fortunate surviving turtles is really remarkable.” Mon Repos Turtle Centre, 15km east of Bundaberg, supports the greatest concentration of nesting marine turtles on the east coast of Australia and has the biggest population of endangered

loggerhead turtles anywhere in the South Pacific. But what separates this experience is that here you’re in the wild – this is no zoo – and you can take part in conservation efforts to help the turtles survive. Visitors join in conservation projects, observing turtles laying their eggs in the dark. When it’s necessary, visitors can even help carry eggs to a safer nest if the nest will be flooded by the tide or damaged by erosion. “It’s not every day that tourists can get involved in working conservation projects,” Cathy says. “Here you can have one of the few turtle encounters of its kind on the whole planet. And the role you’re playing here is critical to the survival of endangered loggerhead turtles”. You can join tours with rangers to watch loggerhead turtles nesting between November and January each year or watch the turtles hatch between January and March.

TANGALOOMA ISLAND RESORT Just about everyone’s favourite marine animal is a dolphin, right? But how many people have ever hand-fed a wild dolphin? Or had one so close you can count its teeth between its big, cheesy grin? Every evening at sunset, Tanglooma Island Resort, a 75-minute catamaran ride from Brisbane, offers a wild dolphin feeding program.

The dolphins come of their own accord (they’re never called) – and are only fed between 10 and 20 per cent of their daily feed requirement so they never become reliant on humans. Dolphins from two tight-knit families in the area come to feed, though which ones you’ll get to see depends entirely on their moods. You might see Shadow, Tinkerbell or Zephyr. Or maybe you’ll get to feed Tangles, or Silhouette. “For first-time wild dolphin feeders, all the dolphins look exactly the same,” eco ranger Tessa Horgan says. “But each dolphin has its own traits you can pick out over time. Tinkerbell, for example, she’s the alpha female and she always asserts her dominance over the younger dolphins by trying to steal their fish at the feed.” And Tangalooma Island Resort’s easy to get to: day trips are available from Brisbane, or you can stay overnight at the resort, where the dolphin feed is included in your stay. “The excitement levels go through the roof,” Tessa says. “You’re within a metre of a wild dolphin so for most guests this is a first-time experience, and people cheer, and some have tears in their eyes. These dolphins have never been in captivity, they’re wild.” capehillsboroughresort.com.au; heronisland.com; npsr.qld.gov.au/ parks/mon-repos; tangalooma.com n

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BUNDABERG TURTLE SEASON Where Great Begins

Find your turtle adventure at bundabergregion.org/yourplace 14 YOUR PLACE

Glasshouse Mountains National Park, Sunshine Coast

Peak performers The beauty and diversity of Queensland’s national parks is legendary. Tiana Templeman explores the main contenders and some lesser-known gems

GLASSHOUSE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK The dramatic volcanic peaks of this Sunshine Coast park are so significant they are listed on the Queensland and National Heritage Register as a landscape of national significance. Experienced hikers come here to tackle the rocky Mount Tibrogargan summit, but less adventurous walkers can stroll the circuit around the base of the rocky outcrop. Look out for koalas, kangaroos and wallabies peering through paperbark trees and watch black-shouldered kites hunting for prey high above the forest canopy.

MAIN RANGE NATIONAL PARK Explore the pristine mountains, forests and volcanic plateaus of Main Range National Park, in Southern Queensland Country, where bird calls ring out as hikers ramble along the Scenic Rim’s rocky escarpments. It’s wild up here, with the mountains stretching into the distance and only the wind breaking the silence. Take in magnificent views of Mount Lyndesay and Mount

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Barney from Sylvesters Lookout or breathe in the scent of eucalypt as you watch Queen Mary Falls plunge 40m into the lush valley below. After a walk, drop in to Spring Creek Mountain Café and Cottages to feast on juicy eye fillet from nearby Killarney followed by a coconut semifreddo served with sweet Queensland pineapple before the drive home. This beautiful spot is less than two hours from Brisbane or 50km east of Warwick if you are travelling from the opposite direction.

LAMINGTON NATIONAL PARK Peter O’Reilly OAM, son of the founders of O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat, grew up in the heart of the Gold Coast's World Heritage-listed Lamington National Park. “I used to love the bigger walks but I don’t do those now I’m older,” says O’Reilly, who is in his eighties. “Out to Python Rock is a lovely walk, especially the lookout at the end where you can see Moran Falls.” He suggests keeping an eye out for the distinctive Albert’s lyrebird which imitates sounds from its surroundings.

“You can’t guarantee that you’ll see one but they are getting more used to people,” says O’Reilly, who was the founder of Bird Week, Australia’s longest running annual gathering of birdwatchers.

BURLEIGH HEAD NATIONAL PARK Retreat into the cool rainforest at Burleigh Head National Park with an indigenous guide from Jellurgal Aboriginal Cultural Centre. Be touched by one of the Gold Coast’s oldest Dreamtime stories and learn more about the traditional sites used by the Yugambeh people. It is easy to spend a morning here, wandering the coastal headland path where sparkling ocean views can be glimpsed through pandanus groves, or climbing to Tumgun lookout to spot migrating humpbacks during winter and spring. Nearby you will find David Fleay Wildlife Park, Queensland’s only government-operated wildlife park, where research, conservation and education remain at the heart of every visitor experience. Sign up for a signature Wild Experience and get hands-on with wildlife.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Your photos from these lesser-known national parks will make friends say, “Wow, where is that?” Spot peregrine falcons at Diamantina National Park (Outback Queensland), where wetlands attract hundreds of birds, or camp at one of Australia's most rugged continental islands at Hinchinbrook Island National Park (Townsville North Queensland), 8km off the coast at Cardwell. Base yourself in Birdsville to explore Munga-Thirri National Park (Outback Queensland), in the heart of the Simpson Desert, or frolic under waterfalls at Wooroonooran National Park (above, Tropical North Queensland). If you’re ready for adventure, these parks will satisfy your wanderlust.

MT BARNEY NATIONAL PARK With its jagged peaks and steep valleys, Mt Barney National Park, Greater Brisbane Region, is ideal for keen bushwalkers. However, you don’t need to be super-fit to appreciate the beauty of this special place. Watch for tell-tale bubbles from platypus in Mount Barney Creek and spot frogs in rock pools along the gorge. Hikers on the Upper Portal track are rewarded with cool waterholes, so pack your swimmers. n

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Heart and soul There’s nothing like a great country pub to introduce you to the characters and communities of rural Queensland, as Lee Mylne discovered

A glorious Winton sunset; publican Lester Cain, below

alking into the Middleton Hotel is a little like walking into someone’s lounge room – and that’s because it is. More remote than most Queensland country pubs, it offers the chance to enjoy a cool drink and a chat with the people who call it home. At the Middleton Hotel, about halfway between Winton and Boulia on the Outback Way, Lester and Val Cain live on the premises. The bar in their tiny outback pub holds about 10 people shoulder-toshoulder, and is perfect for propping up while Lester regales you with tales of his previous life as a rouseabout and camel herder. The Cains are used to travellers who stop off for a quick drink and then move on; there’s not too much else to keep you in Middleton (population two), but it’s the place that Lester calls “the heart of the nation”. In Winton, make sure you’re in town for the daily 4.30pm chicken

16 YOUR PLACE

races at the North Gregory Hotel. Famed as the place where Waltzing Matilda was first performed, this historic pub draws a crowd between May and November for this quirky event and a bit of bush poetry. Publican Ben Casey acts as “auctioneer” for a field of chickens that chase a remote controlled car, and the winner’s “owner” takes half of the prize

pool. The races have raised around $1000 a week for charity since they started last year. Ben’s other passion is aquaponics, with the flourishing kitchen garden behind the hotel. Another watering hole that claims links with Banjo Paterson is the Blue Heeler at Kynuna, built in 1889 as a staging post for Cobb & Co. Brolgas dance in front of the pub;

locals don’t bat an eyelid as these elegant birds strut their stuff, but for the tourists it’s a charming novelty. Just down the road at the tiny hamlet of McKinlay, you half expect Mick “Crocodile” Dundee to swing through the doors of the Walkabout Creek Hotel. The pub’s Crocodile Dundee memorabilia makes it a favourite stop-off for fans of the movie. The Nindigully pub, on the banks of the Moonie River, about 45km from St George in Southern Queensland Country, was established in 1864. A highlight of the local calendar is the annual Nindigully Pig Races, which raises funds for the Royal Flying Doctor Service. Join the locals for the day and learn the meaning of the pub’s motto: “Come as a stranger, leave as a friend”. Closer to Brisbane, the Darling Downs village of Nobby is the birthplace of Dad and Dave of On Our Selection. Author Arthur Hoey Davis (aka Steele Rudd) created his iconic characters at the local hotel. The pub’s exterior is painted with scenes from the books, and inside is a vast collection of Rudd memorabilia. North of Noosa, but a million miles away in ambience from the buzzing resort town, is the Apollonian Hotel at Boreen Point. Its wide, bougainvillea draped verandah is a popular spot for a laidback long lunch. Publican/chef Keryn Payne presides over Sunday lunch which attracts large crowds for the woodfired spit-roast (pork or beef). The joint jumps with live music on Sundays, as well as every second Friday night, when local musicians turn out to jam. “Every Friday from 5.30pm we have a social club gathering,” says Keryn. “Locals love it and there’s always a great crowd.” So wherever you are in country Queensland, drop in to the local pub for a cold one and a yarn, and learn more about what makes the place tick. northgregoryhotel.com; facebook.com/walkaboutcreekhotel; nindigully.com; ruddspub.com.au; apollonianhotel.com.au n

Fun factor Movieworld's new DC Rivals Hypercoaster

Queensland's theme parks are always evolving. Robyn Ironside shares what's new and what’s coming soon

he Gold Coast’s theme parks are always adding new attractions and right now there's a slew of winners for visitors. Warner Bros. Movieworld recently unveiled the DC Rivals Hypercoaster

– the longest, fastest and highest rollercoaster in the Southern Hemisphere, with the world's first noninverted loop. Themed around the epic rivalries between DC characters such as Batman and the Joker, the

hypercoaster reaches up to 115km/h as riders climb up to 61m above the ground. The 1.4km track is double the length of any other Gold Coast ride. Dreamworld has emerged from some tough times with a $7.5 million revamp of Tiger Island, allowing guests to observe the big cats from just millimetres away through specially designed windows. The park also recently introduced its third litter of Tasmanian devil joeys to guests. At neighbouring White Water World, double-storey Treehouse Cabanas are now available for rent with a TV, fridge, phone-charging station and a deck with sun lounges. As well, an eco-friendly energy system has been installed, raising the rides and water to a comfortable 26C . Seaworld’s Polar Bear Shores is always a reason to return to the Gold Coast’s oldest theme park, especially with its newest addition, Mishka, born at the park in May, and now making public appearances at Cub Kindy.

Closer to the Commonwealth Games, Seaworld will unveil a new attraction, Sea Jellies Illuminated. The exhibit features an array of the ethereal creatures, whose otherworldly beauty contrasts with their often deadly sting. The display will incorporate a research laboratory staffed by Griffith University students. In a step away from its traditional style of fun, Wet’n’Wild Gold Coast has added Queensland’s first driving adventure park. Called Wet’n’Wild Buggy, the park is a purpose built 1.5km adventure track. Guests tackle the adventure in a specially designed buggy, with plenty of jumps, hills, tunnels and water hazards. Although driving is restricted to licensed adults, children aged five and over can share the experience in dual-controlled buggies with a Wet’n’Wild instructor. The adventure is in addition to admission and can be booked in the park or online (wetnwildbuggy.com.au). n

The place to wine, dine and unwind Take off on a gourmet long weekend and discover a whole new world of freshness and flavour in Southern Queensland Country. Explore boutique wineries, restaurants where the local produce stars, stunning national parks and quiet country villages.

For a FREE Southern Queensland Country Visitors Guide call 1800 688 949

Plan your perfect country getaway somewherecountry.com

YOUR PLACE 17

18 YOUR PLACE

Get your acai bowls from the cafes across the road, or unpack parcels of fish and chips as you watch a spectacular sunset.

ADVENTURER

Beachside bliss at Cotton Tree Holiday Park

Canvas castaways Whatever your style, Queensland’s incredible coastline has a campsite to suit you. Celeste Mitchell reports

e are a land girt by sea and we’re a nation obsessed with it. We climb heights to see it, spend hours walking along it, pay extra to dine overlooking it, and yearn to sleep to the soothing sounds of it. Whether you like your beach to come with barista-made coffee or prefer to go off the grid, nothing gives travellers a five-star experience for mere pocket change like camping along Queensland’s vast and spectacular coast.

ANIMAL LOVER Just gazing at the serene beach and settling into the relaxed pace of beachside Bargara will have you musing on the miracle of life but a short drive away. There are hundreds of miracles playing out on the sand every night during turtle season (November to March) at Mon Repos Turtle Centre. Pull your van into the shady Bargara Beach Caravan Park, 15 minutes east of Bundaberg, book a cabin or pitch a tent – there’s nothing between you and the Coral Sea. Bargara’s cafes are a short walk away, but the communal outdoor kitchen is where more than barbecue dinners are made. Four-legged friends are also welcome.

Discover more at queensland.com

HISTORY BUFF

MOVER AND SHAKER

The beaches in Agnes Water and Town of 1770 have a magnetic draw – even Captain James Cook couldn't resist coming in for a look when his ship the Endeavour struck a reef just off the coast from, yes, you guessed it, 1770. Blissfully, not a lot has changed since then and campsites still claim pride of place, abutting golden sands. Rugged and untouched, Agnes Water’s patrolled main beach is sheltered by a headland to the south and stretches for 5.5km to the point at 1770. Wax up your longboard for a few fun waves at Australia’s most northerly surf break just a few steps from your bed in the Tree Tops Chalets at Agnes Water Beach Holidays.

If you’re more likely to be seen on the beach in your active wear than a bikini, head for Cotton Tree on the Sunshine Coast where the surf breaks meet the Maroochy River. Days here begin with sunrise yoga in Cotton Tree Park or laps in the public pool while others walk to Alex Bluff or put stand-up paddleboards through their paces, all before the first Bulletproof coffee of the day. For camping as it used to be, the picturesque Cotton Tree Holiday Park overlooks the mouth of the Maroochy River with Mt Coolum beckoning in the distance. You don’t even need to BYO van or tent with nine villas available for hire.

Inside a Tree Tops Chalet at Agnes Water Beach Holidays

It’s a little-known fact that the island beaches in The Whitsundays – the kind where warm waters lap at sand so white you can polish your jewellery with it, while stingrays dance in the shallows – can almost be your own private campground for less than a tenner per night. Hitch a ride on Whitsunday Island Camping Connection’s vessel SCAMPER to any of the nine designated Queensland Parks and Wildlife Services campsites on Hook, Whitsunday and Henning islands and set up home among rainforest, eucalyptus woodland or bottle tree scrublands. And they can provide camping kits so you don’t need to pack anything except your togs, your towel and your food – even that can be ordered from Whitsunday Provisioning.

WANNABE CASTAWAY There’s something rejuvenating about being by the water and recent studies from the US and the UK back it up, finding time spent at the beach promotes happiness and can even improve brain health. Double down on the benefits by having the beach entirely to yourself at remote and unspoiled North West Island in the Capricorn Bunker Group, 75km off the coast of Gladstone. Curtis Ferry Services can get you there, but you’ll need to be completely self-sufficient. Though if you’ve ever wanted to live out your Tom Hanks in Cast Away fantasies, this is the spot – with the luxury of a tent to retire to each night just a hop, skip and flop from the reef. Pack your khakis for bushwalking and cool off afterwards with reef walking, snorkelling and diving from the beach. bargarabeachcaravanpark.com. au; agneswaterbeach.com.au; sunshinecoastholidayparks.com.au/ holiday_parks/cotton_tree_holiday_ park; whitsundaycamping.com.au; curtisferryservices.com.au n

YOUR PLACE 19

Commonwealth Games gold medallist Brenton Rickard at The Gold Coast Aquatic Centre

In the zone Why wait until next year to visit the world-class venues for the Gold Coast 2018 Commonwealth Games? Robyn Ironside takes an advance tour

ot all of us can compete in the Gold Coast 2018 Commonwealth Games but we can enjoy the world-class venues without the pressure of winning. Come April 4-15, the GC will host 6600 athletes and officials and even more excited spectators at world-class venues, many of which locals can visit and use right now.

20 YOUR PLACE

Coolangatta, for example, will be transformed into a beach volleyball arena during GC2018. The Gold Coast has a plethora of wide sandy beaches to choose from, so why did Coolangatta get the nod for this quintessentially GC event? A visit to Coolie reveals the answer. The foreshore, also known as Queen Elizabeth Park, is wide and long,

providing ample room for the crowds, athletes and officials as well as the courts. And the backdrop – sweeping Coolangatta Beach curving around to Kirra with the skyscrapers of Surfers visible to the north – is magnificent. Pull the car into one of the free parking bays along the foreshore and grab one of the benches for a picnic or family barbecue. Every second Sunday of the month, the park is transformed into what must be the most picturesque market in the country – the Coolangatta Art and Craft Markets. Overlooking it all is the Coolangatta Surf Life Saving Club, with floor-to-ceiling windows taking in the entire stunning scene. Across the road are cafes and shops to explore, as well as a cinema

and 10-pin bowling alley. For morning brunch, try The Black Sheep or Café 28 Cooly with its $10 bacon and egg roll plus coffee special, or sample ultra-fresh vegan fare at Charlie’s Raw Squeeze. Visit during the whale migration season (June to November) and you might get lucky and spot humpbacks frolicking offshore. Further north is Currumbin with its gorgeous mix of unspoilt bushland and broad sandy beaches. The road cycling and 20km race walk routes will start and finish at the Currumbin beachfront, with spectators expected to line the picturesque routes to cheer competitors on. Grab a Vittoria coffee from The Beach Shack on Pacific Parade and tackle the 130-steps to Currumbin

Hill lookout – it’s well worth the effort. With views of the entire Gold Coast on a flawless day, there’s a sense that this Commonwealth Games may be the most spectacular ever. From there, it’s a 20-minute drive to Broadbeach Bulls Bowls Club, venue for the Games’ lawn bowls tournament. The club recently underwent a $3.3 million makeover and now proudly offers four greens in tip-top condition. Outdoor terraces provide front-row seats for the tournaments with the gentle click of the bowls just audible over the sound of the surf less than a block away. Inside, the airy dining room provides a cool oasis. A decent selection of meals from Matadors bistro is available for lunch and dinner, with most dishes under $20, and there’s also an all-day bar menu. Barefoot bowls is available most days, allowing beginners to chance their arm on the greens where the elite bowlers will reign in April. The venue likely to attract the most attention during GC2018 is at Southport – The Gold Coast Aquatic Centre, where the blue-ribbon swimming titles will be contested. An extraordinary complex in an even more extraordinary setting – the Broadwater Parklands – the venue has two Olympic-sized pools, a 33m diving pool and a dry dive training facility. There’s also an indoor learn-to-swim pool and a 25m program pool – all in mint condition. Upstairs, rows of seating provide a bird’s eye view of the competition pool and right across to the roller coaster at Seaworld on the Southport Spit.

The view from Coolangatta; stop for a bite at The Beach Shack, Currumbin, below

“Now that the Games are close, there is a real buzz” Brenton Rickard, GC2018 manager sports services Olympic breaststroker and Gold Coaster Brenton Rickard spent the final four years of his swimming career training at the centre, so he knows it “pretty well”. “As a community pool and training facility it is one of the best in the country,” Brenton says.

MANY PL ACES TO GO, ONE PL ACE TO STAY. HILTON BRISBANE

“I always loved swimming outdoors, so I am really excited to see it in action during the Games.” As a local, Brenton, who is GC2018’s manager of sports services, believes the city will be an exemplary Games host. “The athletes will have a fantastic experience here (and) it will provide a great legacy. The new venues and infrastructure will be an asset to the community for years to come. “Now that the Games are close there is a real buzz. Now that the public can see the ‘real’ pieces of the Games such as venues, infrastructure upgrades built and operational, I think it is really sinking in for locals.” With the excitement building among residents, a visit to some of the Gold Coast’s impressive sporting venues is just the thing to whet fans’ appetites ahead of the big event. Discover more at gc2018.com; coolangattasurfclub.com; broadbeachbowlsclub.com.au; facebook.com/gcaquaticcentres n

HAVING A BALL The Gold Coast is the host city of the XXI Commonwealth Games but events have been shared with three other Queensland cities. The preliminary rounds of the men’s and women’s basketball will be played in Cairns and Townsville, where there are still tickets available for the matches, from April 5 to 10. Adults can attend for $30 a ticket and children for $15. Australia’s Boomers will be hoping to add another gold medal to their trophy cabinet – point guard Patty Mills, above, is not able to play due to NBA commitments, but is spreading the word as a Games ambassador. New Zealand poses their biggest threat. In the women’s draw, Canada and Jamaica are set to make their Commonwealth Games debuts, coming up against Australia’s Opals, England, India, New Zealand, Mozambique and Malaysia. gc2018.com/tickets

Woodford Folk Festival

ON THE SIDELINES The world’s best footballers are coming to Queensland for the Rugby League World Cup 2017. Catch a game, then get out and explore the buzzing host cities.

TOWNSVILLE

From sport to the arts, festivals to food, Queensland’s calendar is packed with vibrant events taking place throughout the state OCTOBER

OCT 28:

NOV 9-12:

OCT 6-15:

Rugby League World Cup pool match – Fiji v USA, Townsville North Queensland

Wanderlust Festival, Sunshine Coast

CRUSH Festival Bundaberg, Bundaberg North Burnett

OCT 29:

Rugby League World Cup pool match double header – Ireland v Italy & Scotland v Tonga, Tropical North Queensland Wanderlust Festival

NOV 10-12:

Airlie Beach Festival of Music, The Whitsundays NOV 24:

Rugby League World Cup Semi Final 1, Brisbane NOV 25-26:

Bundaberg Cup, Bundaberg North Burnett NOV 30-DEC 3:

Australian PGA Championship, Gold Coast

Vodafone Gold Coast 600 OCT 20-22:

DECEMBER/JANUARY

Vodafone Gold Coast 600, Gold Coast

DEC 2:

Rugby League World Cup 2017 Final, Mackay Brisbane Festival DEC 27-JAN 1: of Arts Woodford Folk Festival, Brisbane

OCT 21:

The Grass is Greener, Mackay Region OCT 23-29:

Warwick Gold Cup Campdraft & Australian Championship Rodeo, Southern Queensland Country

NOVEMBER

OCT 27-29:

NOV 4:

Lake Moondarra Fishing Classic, Outback Queensland

Yarrabah Band Festival, Tropical North Queensland

22 YOUR PLACE

DEC 31-JAN 7:

Brisbane International, Brisbane

Discover more events at queensland.com/events

Take a stroll on The Strand, with views to beautiful Magnetic Island. Laugh and learn at the Horrible Histories – Pirates: The Exhibition at the Museum of Tropical Queensland (until February 2018), and immerse yourself in the Great Barrier Reef at the Reef HQ Aquarium. For the best perspective on the city, tackle 286m-high Castle Hill. Spectacular views will be your reward.

TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND Cairns, with its laid back vibe and vibrant food culture, is at the heart of a region blessed with spectacular natural beauty. Depart the buzzing waterfront for a day trip to the Great Barrier Reef, travel deep into the World Heritagelisted Wet Tropics rainforest via the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway, or drive a short distance north to the fine-dining hub of Palm Cove.

BRISBANE Queensland’s capital is everevolving. Catch Kinky Boots at QPAC (until October 22), or The Wizard of Oz (from November 4), or see Gladiators: Heroes of the Colosseum at the Queensland Museum until January 28, 2018. Graze hip food options at Eat Street Northshore and find local produce at Jan Powers Farmer’s Markets in the city and at New Farm. Shop up a storm on Queen St, or explore boutique precincts such as New Farm’s James Street and Oxford St at Bulimba.

MUSICALS COME

IN BRISBANE

KINKY BOOTS NOW PLAYING UNTIL 22 OCTOBER LYRIC THEATRE, QPAC

THE WIZARD OF OZ 4 WEEKS ONLY - FROM 4 NOVEMBER LYRIC THEATRE, QPAC

MAMMA MIA! THE MUSICAL 26 DECEMBER – 4 FEBRUARY LYRIC THEATRE, QPAC

DISNEY’S ALADDIN – THE MUSICAL FROM 28 FEBRUARY 2018 LYRIC THEATRE, QPAC

visitbrisbane.com.au YOUR PLACE 23

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