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VOL. I, ISSUE IV, MAY 2010 Rs 60
Putting the zing back to exploring the world
Football or Luxury Cruises? Options galore...
Journey to
TAWANG
Up hill, down dale Bored, braised and roasted in the heat of the plains? It's time to head to the hills!
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CONTENTS
COVER
STORY
SUMMER IS BACK
The internet has been surfed and guidebooks have been thumbed through, but if you are still frazzled about where to go with your family this summer, explore some wonderful, lesser known and even less crowded locales that we are suggesting to you…
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COMPASS
THE JOURNEY
NEWS, LAUNCHES & DEALS
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We bring you the latest from the travel world: special packages, restaurant and hotel openings along with some attractive deals from across the globe.
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The quaint little villages along the hills and the monasteries make Tawang a celestial paradise with lots in store for the discerning traveller…
MAY 2010 TRAVELX
SHORT TAKES
TWIN CITIES
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DOUBLE DELIGHT! Known for her critically acclaimed performances in many films, Nandita Das has always been the Delhi girl, until recently, when her heart took her to Mumbai.
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READY RECKONER GRAB YOUR DEAL
What's on offer by the airlines and agents for the FIFA 2010? Or with some enticing cruise packages, are you ready to hit the waters with your spouse? Take a look…
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56 FOCUS EYE TALK Some amazing shots from the camera of Dr Akhter Husain - an orthodontist and a photographer by passion
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MILES N MORE WALK YOUR WAY THROUGH‌
Are you planning another ohso-familiar summer holiday in the hills? Drop the idea. Stock up your energy and try some cool summer treks chalked out for the adventurous in you.
Cover Photo: Nandu Manjeshwar
Cover Design: Jitendra Rawat
LUXURY ABOUNDS AT WESTIN HYDERABAD
Editorial and Marketing Office: Newsline Publications Pvt Ltd., D-11(Basement) Nizamuddin (East), New Delhi 110 013. Phones: +91-11-41033381-82 Mumbai: Platina, 9th floor, C-Block, G-59, Next to Citibank, Bandra Kurla Complex, Bandra (East), Mumbai 400051, Tel.: +91 22 3953 0528 All information in TravelX is derived from sources we consider reliable. It is passed on to our readers without any responsibility on our part. Opinions/views expressed by third parties in abstract or in interviews are not necessarily shared by us. Material appearing in the magazine cannot be reproduced in whole or in part(s) without prior permission. The publisher assumes no responsibility for material lost or damaged in transit. The publisher reserves the right to refuse, withdraw or otherwise deal with all advertisements without explanation. All advertisements must comply with the Indian Advertisements Code. The publisher will not be liable for any loss caused by any delay in publication, error or failure of advertisement to appear. Owned and published by K Srinivasan 4C Pocket-IV, Mayur Vihar Phase-I, Delhi-91 and printed by him at Nutech Photolithographers, B-240, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase-I, New Delhi-110020.
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Volume I No 4
Editor: K SRINIVASAN Managing Editor: TIRTHANKAR GHOSH Co-ordinating Editor: PRIYANKA SAXENA Reporters: Punit Mishra, Jasleen Kaur, Sreya Shandilya Special Correspondent - Mumbai: Roohi Ahmad (Mob. 09820295648) Design: Pradeep Jha, Ruchi Sinha, Jitendra Rawat, Shivnath Director: Ravi Sharma Director (Admin & Corporate Affairs) : Rajiv Singh Senior Manager (Marketing): Varun Malhotra (Mob. 9650433099) Manager (Business Development): Pranav Khullar (Mob. 9650433088) Regional Sales Manager (South): Karthik K. V. (Mob. 9880209405) Asst. Manager (Corporate Affairs): Amit Sinha Subscription: Jaya Singh (Mob. 9650433044) Executive Director: Renu Mittal email: travelxletters@gmail.com, travelx@newsline.in
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FESTIVAL AND EVENTS
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YODDHAON KA SANGRAM — INDIAN VERSION OF WWE
Venue: Tau Devi Lal Stadium, Rajiv Chowk, Gurgaon Date: May 8, 2010 The World Wrestling Entertainment (WWE) heavy weight champion will now be fighting in the Indian ring. Yoddhaon Ka Sangram will see professional wrestlers from India, South Africa, Turkey and Cuba battle it out for the championship title. WWE superstar The Great Khali aka Dalip Singh Rana will be the guest of honour. For ticket bookings, contact 9650559649, 96504166196 and 9671033553.
ART EXHIBITION BY KAREEM KHAN
VENUE: Stupa 18 Art Gallery, K-64, Sector-18 market, Noida DATE: Till May 16, 2010 ‘Beyond The Obvious’ — a solo exhibition of recent works by Kareem Khan is on for all to see. The exhibition is on from 11am to 8pm and is closed on Tuesdays. There is no entry fee. For details, contact: 09811028157
What's happening around the country this month? Choose from the hottest events and shows taking place in different parts of India in the world of music, art, Entertainment and food.
EAST INDIA JEWELLERY SHOW 2010 VENUE: Netaji Indoor Stadium, Kolkata DATE: May 8 - 10, 2010 East India Jewellery Show 2010 (EIJS 2010) is all set to kick off its second edition. The three-day show is the best platform for showcasing a wide range of fashion jewellery, gems and allied products. EIJS 2010 will provide a wide opportunity to meet all professionals from gems and jewellery industry under one roof to share and exchange their experiences and learn about new technologies in gem and jewellery production. For details, contact: 022485773, 022481540
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LIFESTYLE EXHIBITION ON LONDON SHOPPING FESTIVAL
GROUP ART SHOW: HAVE I OPPOSED YOU?
VENUE: Galerie Mirchandani Steinruecke, 16/18, Sunny House, Mereweather Road, Colaba, Mumbai DATE: Ongoing till May 22, 2010 Take a look at 'Have I Opposed You?' a new art exhibition featuring the works of artists from India and Pakistan. The list includes Waseem Ahmed, Ambreen Butt, Abir Karmakar, Nalini Malani, Kanishka Raja, C.K. Rajan, Rashid Rana and Aji V N. The exhibition is on from 11am to 6pm.
Pogo M.A.D Live Summer Camp 2010
VENUE: Row House No. 3, Heramb Society, Pashan Sus Road, Pune DATE: Ongoing till May 27, 2010 Pogo is organising a M.A.D Summer Camp at various designated centres in the city. The aim of arranging Summer Camp is to equip children with utmost innovative and creative exposure. The M.A.D Summer Camp incorporates various activities comprising legends and fantasy, wiz craft and creative paper craft. In this camp, children will be taught creative and innovative art and craft as seen on Pogo. It is also conducting a workshop on Smart Potato. The purpose behind M.A.D. Summer Camp and Smart Potato is just fun for children. For registration, call: 02240792402
ON VACATION — PLAY
DATE: May 26-28, 2010 In the picturesque town of Mount Abu, the Summer Festival is a welcome change. Whether it is folk dances, boat races or qawwalis, everything about this festival is very cultural. Needless to say that it is a great way to soak in the hospitality of the people. Three days pass in a jiffy with events like skaters' race, horse race and tug of war. A display of fireworks will adorn the sky every evening.
MAY 2010 TRAVELX
VENUE: Ranga Shankara, JP Nagar, Bengaluru DATE: May 7 - 8, 2010 Directed by Vinay Verma, "On Vacation" is an English translation of the Marathi play, 'Chotyashya Suttit', by Sachin Kundalkar. Set in the city of Mumbai in modern times, this play basically deals with relationships: manwoman, man-man or between human beings. This 120 minutes duration play will be showed at 7.30pm on both days. Buy tickets online or get them delivered to your home (Call at 9880036611) or use mobile (through NGPay) to get tickets for the show.
MOUNT ABU, SUMMER FESTIVAL
FESTIVAL AND EVENTS
VENUE: St George School Grounds, Poonamalle High Road, Chennai DATE: May 1 - 16, 2010 An international lifestyle exhibition on London Shopping Festival will display on sale products of electronics, automobiles, and interiors including top national and international brands. It is going to provide discounts on all purchases made. For more details, contact 9894284932.
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LETTERS
TALL TALES
E
MAY 2010 TRAVELX
delweiss - remember that immortal song from The Sound of Music - played by a petite lass on the piano brought back some wonderful memories of trips to the mountains. The mountains always seemed so far away and mysterious. The mystery came, I believe, from the stories one heard from elders that they had gleaned from books by Lobsang Rampa with evocative titles like Doctor from Lhasa and Living with the Lama, among many others. The mystery also came from the home-grown stories about saints and sadhus who spent years roaming in the mountains to attain a state of salvation. Indeed, peace and salvation are what we aim for our readers. Bored stiff, braised and roasted in the heat and humidity of the plains, Travel X literally went up the hill to deliver this package of goodies. We bring you treks that you could take up the hills of the north, south, east and west. At the end there is the 'Holy Grail': fresh air - a costly commodity in these days of pollution peace and tranquility and nature in its sometimes-flamboyant-sometimessober beauty. That is not all. Now that the IPL matches are over, a bigger fiesta awaits sports lovers. There's the football World Cup and the icing on the cake is that it is taking place in South Africa. What more could one ask? But wait, there is more‌ Let's go a-cruising! Which liner would it be? Tirthankar Ghosh tghosh@newsline.in
The article "Shoot! Face to face with Mr 1411" in the April issue was an interesting read. Kanha National Park is a wonderful place to explore and tour. Apart from being an enjoyable read, the piece was also very expressively done. The way the writer explained her journey - the forest and wide diversity of wildlife - I actually felt as if I was there. She has evocatively captured the wonders of Kanha, and photographs were truly complementary. I also liked the factfile boxes (useful tips, getting there, when to go, where to stay and please remember), which I think is vital for any first-time traveller. I loved the story. Kudos to you! Shilpa Saluja, New Delhi
First of all, the cover is truly refreshing. The cute tiger on cover is really eyecandy. I have always wanted to explore Europe by Eurail, and after reading the article "A slice of Europe" in your last issue, i.e. April 2010, I am determined
to turn my desire into a reality pretty soon! I must say Pushpesh Pant's "For the love of Shaami Kebab" was an enjoyable read. The way it was written actually had my mouth watering. I remember going to Shekhawat's when I was very young, but now, I shall visit Lucknow with my wife and will surely savour these yummy kebabs. As an avid book lover, I thank you for adding book review section in the magazine. It was something I felt the magazine was missing, but not anymore. Saurabh Gulati, Bengaluru
Thanks to my business, I have to travel a lot and have stayed in many hotels. But what I have read about Alila Diwa, Goa, in you hotel review section, is completely unique. Surprisingly, no other publication has covered it yet, as per my knowledge as I haven't read about the hotel. I was quite intrigued to read about the Spice Studio, where tourist can create his own meal for himself and his family. Really, a great idea! In fact, I am planning a trip to Goa with family, and now that I know about this new property, I might plan my stay there! Abhishek Mehta, Mumbai
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SHORT TAKES
SPA BREAKS
Spa havens for mums
Revolutionising low cost travel
THE LUXURY of flying in flatbed seats has been the monopoly of the big international aircrafts, until AirAsia decided to change the norm, becoming the first low-cost carrier in the world to introduce flatbed seats in its aircraft. The flatbed seats are standard Business Class specifications of 20" width, 60" pitch and stretches out to 77” in full recline position. The seats feature universal power sockets, adjustable headrests and built-in personal utilities such as tray table, drink holder, reading light and privacy screen. Premium seat guests will get to enjoy the premium complimentary product and services such as pick a seat, priority check-in, priority boarding, priority baggage, baggage allowance, combo meal and comfort kit. Premium seats are available online at www.airasia.com
WONDERING WHAT to gift your mum this Mother’s day? Here’s your gift — a nice relaxing massage, or a similar other treatment, to pamper her and to rejuvenate her senses that will surely make her feel special! Four Seasons Mumbai, in the honour of mothers, has introduced month-long ‘spa specials’. Let your mother enjoy the warmth of a 90 minute ‘hot stone massage’ and feel the tension and stress melt away. What’s more, for mothers-to-be, there is ‘pregnancy scrub and massage’ package that combines the vibrational energy of ILA’s ‘beyond organic’ products (spa products of hotel) with a nurturing full body massage focusing on mum’s tummy to bring peace and joy to both baby and mum! So, visit and rejuvenate your senses anytime in the month of May for just Rs 4,900 per treatment. All rates are subject to seven per cent service charge and applicable government taxes. Offer is valid only for ladies and advance bookings are recommended at www.fourseasons.com/mumbai.
Enjoy your summer with R The Spa
MAY 2010 TRAVELX
DID YOU KNOW?
IF YOU choose to fly in the Diamond First or Pearl Business Class from India to any of the Etihad destinations via Abu Dhabi, you can bag a two night’s complimentary stay at the Jumeirah Emirates Towers, one of Dubai’s finest hotels. Also included in the special promotion is a free limousine transfer to and from Dubai, just 45 minutes from Abu Dhabi International Airport. The exclusive offer is available for passengers travelling from Mumbai, New Delhi, Chennai and Hyderabad, travelling between March 10 and June 30.
WHILE DREARY hot summer threatens to bog you down, R The Spa at Radisson Delhi promises to keep you cool, refreshed and rejuvenated with its refreshing summer spa treatments. It is offering three different summer spa packages. The first package includes green coffee wrap, relaxing and refreshing aroma massage and herbal tea; the second spa treatment comprises antioxidant facial mask, manicure and pedicure and refreshing floral bath; and third spa treatment includes watermelon facial, papaya body wrap and aromatherapy massage. All this is accompanied by a welcome drink on arrival, use of jacuzzi, steam (optional) and swimming pool (optional). All this and more for just Rs 6,500.
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DON’T MISS Goa or Jaipur?
WHILE THE mercury may be soaring at both the places, but when has heat ever deterred people from enjoying a vacation? Royal Orchid Hotels is offering some unbeatable offer this summers starting at just Rs 16,500 for a three nights/four day package in a deluxe room in its property in South Goa. The package also includes a Goan welcome drink on arrival, complimentary breakfast, lunch and dinner at Cosmos — the sea view restaurant, half day sightseeing by AC coach followed by one hour Sunset Cruise on River Mandovi. Visit Jaipur anytime from May 1 to July 31 to enjoy the luxurious two nights and three days stay at Royal Orchid Central for just Rs 5,999. The package also includes a non alcoholic welcome drink on arrival, accommodation in deluxe room for two, buffet breakfast and 20 per cent discount on food and beverage and laundry during the stay.
MAY 2010 TRAVELX
Time to pay homage
EVERY YEAR, a vast number of tourists flock to Shirdi to seek the blessings of Sri Sai Baba. This year, Sun n Sand is offering an attractive summer package to pay homage at Sai Baba’s shrine in its property in Shirdi. One can choose accommodation in a temple facing room for Rs 4,350 per night, while pool facing and studio rooms cost Rs 4,850 and Rs 5,350 respectively. All prices are excluding 10 per cent tax and are net non-commissionable. The package includes all three purely vegetarian meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner; extra meal will be charged), complimentary temple shuttle and free use of health club and swimming pool. For more details, contact at + 91 9657777999 or mail at resshirdi@sunnsandhotel.com
SPEED READER TRIPADVISOR AND YATRA.COM have formed an alliance, which will see content collaboration in the Indian online travel space. The alliance will allow Yatra.com clients access to the unbiased hotel reviews posted by travellers on TripAdvisor, including those posted on its India website. This will enable them to make the best possible choice of hotels based on their needs. MUMBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT LTD (MIAL) has recently unveiled the new domestic passenger terminal 1C at the Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport (CSIA) in Mumbai. The terminal has six new passenger boarding bridges and offers seamless connectivity between terminals 1A and 1B. Spread over 2,97,194 sq ft across three levels, terminal 1C will increase the passenger handling capacity of the domestic terminals while enhancing the overall passenger comfort and convenience. DRAGONAIR, a member of the Cathay Pacific group, after cutting its flights to four-a-week in January 2009, reinstated daily flights between Hong Kong and Bengaluru from last month. This is the only route in India where Dragon Air has operations. KINGFISHER AIRLINES, India’s only five star airline rated by Skytrax, has launched flights from Mumbai and New Delhi to Bangkok. The launch of these new routes mark the fourth international route out of Mumbai and third international route out of New Delhi. The flights on these routes will be operated using Kingfisher Airlines’ modern fleet of Airbus A320 aircraft featuring a dual-class cabin with five star luxury on Kingfisher First and Kingfisher Class, the premium economy service. JET AIRWAYS has recently launched daily non-stop operations to the South African capital, Johannesburg from Mumbai. Passengers travelling on Jet Airways’ flights will now be able to book onward connections to other South African destinations like Cape Town, Durban, Port
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SPEED READER Elizabeth, the famed Kruger National Park and East London. Additionally, in conjunction with its daily non-stop service to Johannesburg, the airline has also introduced exclusive South African JetEscapes packages, which will enable tourists to explore the Rainbow Nation with its perfect blend of wildlife, luxury, adventure and stunning landscapes. THE TAJ HOTELS RESORTS AND PALACES have been voted as India’s Best Hotel Group at the recently concluded Conde Nast Traveler Readers’ Travel Awards India 2010 held in Mumbai. This award bear testimony to its dedication in continuously innovating and providing guests with worldclass hospitality. The awards are based on the ratings received from a sophisticated group of well-traveled readers of Conde Nast Traveler from across the globe, who have ranked hotels on various criteria.
MAY 2010 TRAVELX
AIRASIA, the largest low-cost carrier in Asia, recently became the first and only airline from Malaysia to operate flights on the Penang and Chennai route. AirAsia’s extremely affordable fares starting from RM199 (INR 2,999) one way for this new direct flight from Chennai to Penang will definitely contribute in increasing the number of tourists arriving into Penang this year. AirAsia conquered India skies by storm in January this year by launching six new routes to India which include key metro cities of Bengaluru, Hyderabad, Mumbai and New Delhi from their Kuala Lumpur hub, while Chennai is connected from both Kuala Lumpur and Penang. The Kuala Lumpur — Chennai route will begin operations on May 17, 2010. NASAIR, the Saudi-based low-cost carrier, has recently launched India operations with four weekly flights to Mumbai. The airline will gradually expand operations to Kochi, Kozhikode and Delhi. In an introductory offer, Nasair is offering special fare to celebrate the Mumbai launch with prices starting from $66.6 (US$ 1 is equal to INR 44.28). It will fly Riyadh to Mumbai on Saturday, Monday, Wednesday and Thursday, while on return, it will operate on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday.
DON’T MISS Weekend in Nagpur
IF YOUR weekend getaway is long overdue, well, hotel Sun n Sand has some good news in store for you. The property is offering an attractive weekend stay package in its property in Nagpur, for just Rs 4,999. The package includes superior room accommodation, Saturday early check-in 10am, Sunday late check-out 6pm, Saturday multi-cuisine dinner, Sunday brunch, bed tea and evening tea, free entry to ‘On The Rocks’ the disc on Saturday night, free games, free laundry (up to eight pieces), free kids stay (below 12 years, two kids), free unlimited internet usage and free car wash on Sunday. So, what are you waiting for? Pack your bags and get ready to give yourself a mini vacation this weekend. For bookings, mail at reservations@sunnsandnagpur.com or contact at 07103 663333.
Head to the hills
TAKE A refreshing break from the sultry city heat and dust and head towards the cool and scenic hills of Mussoorie. Park Plaza Sylverton Mussoorie is offering a special two nights / three days summer stay package starting Rs 15,499 on weekdays and Rs 16,499 on weekends. The package includes accommodation for two adults and two children below 10 years of age, buffet / fixed menu breakfast and lunch/dinner, complimentary fresh fruit basket, a platter of cookies, mineral water, goodnight chocolates placed in the room and15 per cent discount on all food and beverage orders. For more information and room reservations please call on 0135 2635525 - 30 or mail at ppm@sarovarhotels.com
Chhattisgarh Tourism Board, Head Office: Paryatan Bhawan, G E Road, Raipur- 492006 India Phone: +91-771-4066415, 2444190 Fax: +91-771-4066425 Email: contactus@chhattisgarhtourism.net
in Chhattisgarh is among the handful of places where you can find me. So, what are you waiting for?
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kind going around. In fact, I am among the endangered species of wildlife in India. And Udanti Wildlife Sanctuary
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My name is Bibalus Bubalis. But you can call me and my likes - Wild Buffalo. Not that there are too many of my
ANYDAY WILDER THAN YOUR WEEKEND GATHERING
o cal l f the
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NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK Baddi gets Legend Sarovar Portico JUST 37KM from Chandigarh, on the Baddi — Nalagarh Highway, Sarovar Hotels & Resorts have recently opened their new property — Legend Sarovar Portico. In close proximity to both the airport as well as the railway station, the hotel ensures comfort for both business and leisure travellers. Legend Sarovar Portico has a total of 49 rooms and suites with LCD television and wi-fi access. Dining options include Seasons, the 24x7 coffee shop and Blue-O, the lounge bar. The hotel also offers conference and banqueting facilities. The property is offering an introductory room tariff starting at Rs 2,450 plus taxes, for double occupancy.
Enjoy a blissful stay in Gurgaon
OFFERING MORE ‘choice’ to the travellers to Gurgaon, Choice Hospitality has recently launched its Quality Inn Bliss in Gurgaon. A contemporary business hotel, the property has 39 well appointed guestrooms with modern facilities such as LCD television, DVD player, mini bar, electronic safe and wi-fi internet access. Its multicuisine restaurant ‘Fusion’ and lounge bar ‘Celsius’ offers plenty for a gourmand. ‘Viceroy’ state-of-the-art board room is ideal for small meetings for up to 18 guests, while its fully equipped banquet and conference halls ‘Ritz I’ and ‘Ritz II’ can accommodate up to 120 guests.
MAY 2010 TRAVELX
T R A I L E R
Brand Holiday Inn gets a facelift
IHG (InterContinental Hotels Group) HAS launched the first new-built Holiday Inn hotel in Mumbai. The 225-room property represents the new Holiday Inn brand, which is in the midst of the biggest re-launch in hospitality history, creating a more contemporary brand image including a new logo. Situated at Saki Naka junction in Andheri, Holiday Inn Mumbai International Airport offers a wide selection of food and beverage outlets such as Saptami — an all day dining restaurant with seven unique interactive live stations, 72 — the lobby bar, Saptami Express — Mumbai’s newest Deli. A world class spa and infinity pool are some other added features at the property.
Koh Samui, Thailand gets its first hydrotherapy spa KOH SAMUI, the perfectly located charming tropical island of Thailand will soon witness opening of the Banyan Tree Samui hotel. The property will take the number of Banyan Tree Hotels and Resorts in Thailand to three. Combining the best elements of a tropical getaway,
Banyan Tree Samui will offer large infinity pools in its villas, along with a hydrotherapy spa, which will also be the first hydrotherapy spa in Koh Samui. The hallmarks of Banyan Tree Samui will be Banyan Tree Spa and its exclusive hydrotherapy facility, The Rainforest, which has been designed like a hydrothermal circuit, comprising alternating hot and cold thermal cabins, for couples to embark on a trail of wellness treats. The Rainforest Trail offers 10 different hydrothermal therapy
experiences such as Rain Walk, Aroma Steam, Nature’s Glow and Scrub, Rasul, Finnish Sauna, Bucket Drench Shower, Ice Fountain, Swiss Shower and Vitality Pool. Spa-goers can also look forward to signature treatments delivered by professional spa therapists, trained at the exclusive Banyan Tree Spa Academy in Phuket, Thailand. Holistic Asianinspired spa experiences are delivered in 10 spacious indoor spa pavilions with beach views. For further information please visit at www.banyantree.com
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Resorting to Nature
Luxury wildlife resorts Infinity Corbett Wilderness
a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World
Infinity Bandhavgarh Wilderness
situated right next to the park bg Ketkiya
Infinity Rann of Kutch
off the beaten track near an extinct volcano, yet close to Bhuj
For Bookings: Mumbai : 9930807567, Delhi : 9650193664, 9911813300, 9811313300 sales@infintyresorts.com infinty_del@airtelmail.in
http://infinityresorts.com
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NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK QUICKIE
MAY 2010 TRAVELX
The Park opens in city of Nizams
LOCATED ADJACENT to the Hussain Sagar Lake, The Park Hotels, pioneers of the boutique hotel concept in India, have launched their first hotel in Hyderabad. The hotel incorporates 270 guest rooms, deluxe and presidential suites, three restaurants, banquet halls, four bars, lounges and entertainment venues. A unique 3-D horizon pool with a 125 ft infinity edge is located on the third floor of the hotel, offering guests a spectacular view over the lake and city. Bold jewel colour accents — Roby, Coral, Emerald, Peridot and Sapphire, have been used in each of the five floors. All rooms are like jewellery boxes and are replete with a 10" custom-made mattress, a media hub that includes a 42" LCD television, DVD player, I-pod and laptop (on request), high speed wi-fi internet connectivity, specially commissioned artwork, four fixture bathrooms with a unique deep- soak bathtub and a bath menu. The banquet halls, spread over 10,000 sq ft, provide a business and banqueting space that is spectacular for conferences, dinners and weddings. The hotel also includes an exclusive
retail space, Tresorie, breathtakingly designed to create a rich sensory retailing experience and providing an exquisitely crafted setting for the world’s most precious brands. The Park, Hyderabad is a LEED GOLD certified green hotel by the US Green Building Council. The Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building Rating System is internationally recognised and measures how efficiently a building or community performs across all relevant metrics like energy savings, water efficiency, CO2 emissions reduction, improved indoor environmental quality as well as stewardship of resources and sensitivity to their impacts. The Park, Hyderabad maintains low outdoor heat absorption, high acoustic levels, minimal emission levels, energyefficient lighting, and utilises natural lighting to maximum potential. In addition to sewage treatment plants and rainwater harvesting to enhance water efficiency, the materials used in construction and interiors also constitute a significant amount of recycled matter such as glass, paper, metal, etc.
Salvatore Ianniello, Representative India, ENIT- Italian State Tourist Board reveals some secrets of Italy. Italy in your words? My Italy as your India is a representative of mixed culture and traditions. Many people think of Italy as a high end destination. What about an Economy Class traveller? This is a misconception. Italy is a country for all the seasons and for all kinds of budget. It is for all ages, for young, for children, for married. Our services are for all. A must do activity in Italy? Italy is a lifestyle, all you have to do here is to live Italy and get the feel of it. Must see in Italy? Italy, as India, has been the victim of many invasion and intrusions. These forays made Italy a unique nation with a variety of cultures. Right from North to South, Italy reflects colourful traditions. There are many historic cities in this part of Italy such as Turin, port of Genoa, leaning tower of Pisa, Palermo, Horace and many more. One dish not to miss? Italy is famous for hosts of dishes like its breads, pizza, pasta, cheese and pastry. South Italy is famous for Pasta with olive oil and North is famous for rice with butter. What plans does ENIT have for Indian travellers? ENIT undertakes a host of activities in order to promote Italy as a tourism destination in India. Media campaigns, press trips, trade fairs and fam trips, co-marketing with our tour operators in India, seminars on Italy for Indian students. Lastly but certainly not the least, we are also focusing on Bollywood. With the success of “Bachna Ae Haseeno” and “Kambakht Ishq”, we are working with important Indian production houses to promote Italy as a Bollywood destination. In fact, another Nadiadwala Grandson production, “Housefull”, starring Deepika Padukone and Akshay Kumar, was shot in Puglia, Italy in September 2009.
Head Office; New Delhi YMCA Jai Singh Road, New Delhi-110001 Tel.: 011-43644044 Mob.: 9313697411 Fax: 23746032 Website: www.newdelhiymca.org
YMCA
YMCA Campsite cum Programme Centre (A Division of New Delhi YMCA) Kohinur, Mehragaon (P.O), Sattal-Nainital (Dt.), Uttarakhand YMCA Campsite Pokhartal Ph.: 0091-5942-247288 Almora (Dt.), Uttarakhand e-mail: ymcasattal@gmail.com
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Entertainment galore aboard
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luxury trains
FIR
(FIRST INFORMATION REPORT)
WANTING TO go on a luxury train tour but worried about missing the crucial episode of your soap opera? Not anymore! Palace on Wheels, the first luxury train of India, has added another ‘first’ to its kitty. The train, along with its new kin, Royal Rajasthan on Wheels, has tied up with Dish TV, one of the many direct-tohome (DTH) service providers in the country, and will now show a wide spectrum of channels in the train. All set to change the perception of train travel in India, the news has come as a pleasant surprise for travellers who were keen on planning a trip aboard these luxury trains. From IPL to EPL, now you will miss nothing on your sojourn. Wondering how this will work? The technology, i.e. installing a mobile dish antennae at the roof of the train that will auto track the satellite at all times, has been approved from the RDSO (Research Design and Standards Organisation). This technology has been developed keeping the Indian train environment of high jerks, high temperatures and moisture levels in mind.
Dish TV was running its trial run, which was limited only to the bar lounge of both trains, for last few months. After ensuring its successful functioning, the company, beginning August, when the next season commences for Palace on Wheels, plans to install its sets in each bogey. So if you thought your bogey is just like your bedroom minus your television set where you love to enjoy a late night movie the last time that you were aboard it, try it now and enjoy the uninterrupted clear view of all your favourite soap operas, as you chug through the desert beauty of Rajasthan. The tourists travelling on Palace on Wheels and Royal Rajasthan on Wheels, beginning August, will now be able to enjoy almost 110 satellite channels showing business news, current affairs, sports, Hollywood Bollywood blockbusters, music and travel and lifestyle, among others. Looks like luxury train travel in India just added another feather to its cap.
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SPECIAL FOCUS ortune Park Hotels Ltd, a wholly owned subsidiary of ITC Ltd, has recently announced the opening of its 33rd property, Fortune Park LakeCity in Thane, a satellite town of Mumbai city and increasingly becoming a hub of economic activity. Fortune Park LakeCity is the first branded business hotel of the Thane district. Fortune Park LakeCity, Thane, is owned by Dr Ajay Thakker, Chairman and CEO of Jupiter LifeLine Hospitals Ltd. The hotel has 58 rooms with 24 Standard Rooms, 16 Fortune Club Rooms and 15 Suites. Fortune Park LakeCity offers state-ofthe-art banquet and conference halls which can accommodate between 8 to 300 guests. This contemporary first class business hotel carefully blends present-day style, comfort and state-of-art facilities to provide premium accommodation to visitors. Strategically located on the Eastern Express Highway, just 30 km from Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport and 26 km from the Domestic Airport, the hotel is well connected to the business hubs in Mumbai. Its close proximity to business and industrial centres like Waghle/Kolshet, Bhiwandi, Airoli, Kalwa,
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Fortune hotels’ two new properties Vikhroli, MIDC and SEEPZ, Navi Mumbai and Mumbai itself, makes it the most desirable and sought after location for numerous multinationals and large corporate houses. Meanwhile, in another development, Fortune Park Hotels Ltd has also announced the flagging of its 34th property, Fortune Inn Haveli in the capital city of Gujarat - Gandhinagar. The hotel is just a 20 minute drive from Airport and Ahmedabad City and 3 km from Railway Station. The property offers a selection of 84 rooms including 56 Standard Rooms, 14 Fortune
19 Club Rooms and 14 Suites. All rooms combine contemporary elements with elegant design and are equipped with a complete range of modern amenities. Other offerings at Fortune Inn Haveli, Gandhinagar include 'Earthen Oven'-the north Indian speciality restaurant, a business centre, gymnasium and sauna. The hotel also offers conference and banquet facilities to accommodate 800 people. A swimming pool and Fortune Deli will be added shortly. Fortune Inn Haveli is owned by Major Vinod Joshi, Chairman and Managing Director of Gandhinagar Hotels Limited. This splendid property now dons the Fortune banner, in its 'Inn' category. Fortune Inn Haveli is an upscale hotel situated right opposite the Secretariat in the commercial and shopping hub at Sector 11 the heart of the city. Due to the perfect town planning and natural beautification, Gandhinagar is also known as the Greenest Capital City of Asia. With the launch of this hotel, the total number of Fortune Inn category hotels in the country now stands at six with Jammu, Pune, Visakhapatnam, Noida and Manipal hotels already operational.
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(ABOVE): STEVEN KALCZYNSKI, GENERAL MANAGER, THE OBEROI, MUMBAI, IS EXCITED AND CONFIDENT THAT THE REOPENED PROPERTY, WITH ITS NEW LOOK AND EXCELLENT DEDICATED SERVICE WILL HAVE MANY PATRONS. (LEFT): THE REFURBISHED LOBBY OF THE OBEROI, MUMBAI
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THE EMPLOYEES K During the final phases, the employees have worked so hard to put this hotel together. I know from where they come and where they are living. It takes an hour and a half for them to reach here in the morning and they leave very late. The two months that I have been here, the efforts that I have seen from all the employees have been tremendous. They are very hard workers and very passionate, very caring and I think that they are just as excited as the guests that the hotel is reopening. I would say that that was the biggest thing. THE REGULARS K Around three weeks back, I sent out an email blast to all our customers around the world, to let them know that the hotel will reopen on April 24, and there was an outpour of emails back from the guests saying that they are so happy and their hearts have been with us through this entire period and we have their support in coming back to stay with us in Mumbai. It just shows that these hideous acts would not prevent people from coming back. That is probably the biggest thing apart from the fact that we are bridging into the future. And we cannot let those things stop us. AN UNFORGETTABLE MOMENT
Moving
on...
THE LEAD UP TO THE OPENING K I think just reading in the newspapers has been exciting. To watch some of the main stories leading up to the reopening has been great. I think that Mumbai is excited as well because our reopening is a testament to the spirit of the city. And this is the reaction that I got from the people on the street as well. MEMORIES OF THE STAFF YOU LOST K One of the main reasons why we did not have a grand opening was exactly that. We wanted to respect the past while also launch into the future. I think the staff suffered a lot emotionally during the last year but as human beings are resilient, they always come around and the fact that we are reopening now means most to the staff than anything else. Those who have suffered have been very supportive in a lot ways and that still exists. But I think overall, they are just very happy that we are opening up again. (PHOTOS BY PRADEEP CHANDRA)
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Burying the past and moving ahead is what life is all about‌ While we will never forget the gory details of 26/11 in Mumbai, the reopening of the Oberoi Hotel is the testament to the spirit of the people of Mumbai...
K Well because we have not been open, a lot of what I have done in the last couple of weeks have been giving little private tours of the rooms and the properties to the guests and also to a lot of tour operators who had come from the UK and the US. It has been very nice to hear the reaction from those who have been here in the past and have seen the new architectural layout and the design. Their responses have been tremendous. I took one tour in the evening and there was such a calming effect. It was such a bright, contemporary and colourful lobby versus the past. So, it was nice to get that kind of immediate feedback.
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"Coming Soon in Summer 2010"
Country Inn & Suites By Carlson Mussoorie Convent Road, Library Mussoorie 248179 Tel : 91 135 2631001 Email : reservations@cdmsindia.com Website : www.countryinns.com/india India Toll Free : 1800 1800 456
Avenues 50 rooms & suites (all mall facing) Mosaic : all day dining coffee shop cum bar Revive Spa & Fitness Centre In house guest library Kids play zone Ballroom with capacity of approx 300 people
Country Inn & Suites By Carlson
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"Coming Soon in Summer 2010"
Country Inn & Suites By Carlson Convent Road, Library Mussoorie 248179 Tel : 91 11 43221904 Email : reservations@cdmsindia.com Website : www.countryinns.com/india India Toll Free : 1800 1800 456
! 50 Rooms & Suites ! Mosaic : 24 Hours Coffee Shop ! Revive : Spa & Fitness Centre ! In House Guest Library ! Kids Play Zone ! Banquet & Conferencing
Country Inn & Suites By Carlson
Mussoorie
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It’s chutti time
Ironic as it may sound, many a times; a vacation, especially in summer, gets so strenuous that you feel like going to another one as soon as you are back from the first! Reason — the overcrowded destination. So, this summer, enjoy the chutti at a lesser known locale...
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Nelliyampathy—
The road less travelled
(LEFT) COFFEE PLANTATION AND (RIGHT) TEA PLANTATION AT NELLIYAMPATHY
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but marvel at the tea bushes — they are all over and form the dominant green belt in Nelliyampathy. Nelliyampathy is not as celebrated as Munnar. But it has an untouched charm about it unlike Munnar which seems to be over run with tourists. The best way to discover this locale is to take a casual stroll or drive out to the myriad vantage points. One can also take a look at examples of bio farming in the many private plantations around this place. Nelliyampathy’s many hillocks and mounds are perfect for trekking. If you are adventurous, set out on these lesser trodden routes to savour some pristine wilderness not normally seen on the tourist itinerary. If one is lucky, one is sure to spot endangered animals like the Nilgiri Tahrs and the lion tailed macaques en route. I embarked on a birdwatching spree and spotted an extensive variety of birds in the abandoned estates and the scenic environs of Nelliyampathy. The twitters, orchestrated by myriads of birds are a treat to the ears. But what makes it so special is the mellifluous song of the Malabar Whistling Thrush or the whistling schooling boy pervading the air. On reaching our destination, we were ushered into our cottage ensconced in a lush green coffee estate. The mountain air whetted my appetite. After a hearty breakfast of aappams and stew, washed down with a cup of frothy, filter coffee, we set out on a long walk to savour a slice of plantation life. The landscape was a
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rom the sweltering heat of Palakkad town it was a pleasant climb to the lesser frequented hill station of Nelliyampathy in the Sahya Range. The enchantment of the excursion to this virgin hill station starts at the picturesque Pothundi Dam, about an hour's drive from Palakkad via Nemmara. En route we tarried awhile at the Pothundi reservoir. I could gaze in the distance the Pothundi Reservoir gleaming like a sapphire set amidst the green canopy of the forests. As our jeep cleaved through hair-pin bends, past estates and cascading waterfalls that line the hillsides, we were greeted by the magnificent vistas and the fresh air of this virtually untouched locale. Driving through dense evergreen forests, I stopped at every bend to capture pictures of the varying shades of greenery and the sparkling waterfalls hurtling down the hillsides. We had splendid view of the Palakkad Gap, a geographical phenomenon in the Western Ghats formation in this region, bringing into view, parts of the adjoining State of Tamil Nadu. As we moved higher, hills swathed with plantations of tea, coffee, aromatic cardamom groves and pockets of gooseberry trees loomed into view. Pepper interspersed with rows of ubiquitous silver oaks and luscious oranges hanging from orchards added varying hues to the
landscape. Situated south of the Palakkad Gap, and adjoining the popular wildlife sanctuaries of Parambikulam, Anamalai and the Peechi Vazhani, Nelliyampathy is luxuriant with flora and fauna and a corridor for wild animal movement. There are some pockets of nelli (gooseberry) that is said to have given Nelliyampathy its name. Another version attributes the name to the Kadar tribes who had a hamlet or 'pothi' near Nellikolam. Hence Nelliampothi in due course of time became Nelliyampathy. In days of yore, Nelliyampathy's claim to fame was its luscious oranges. Now the fame of this enchanting hill station rests on the aroma of coffee, cardamom and the tardy plant that has bequeathed to the Keralite his much-loved cup of ‘chaiya’ (tea). Right from the early 40s, Nelliyampathy was known for its luscious oranges grown at the Agricultural Research Station. These fruits were carted to feed the British troops during the World War II. They were so popular that box loads of these fruits were also sent in those days to the queen of England . Funnily, Nelliyampathy does not have the clichéd 'hill station' stamp. Nestled at a height of 4600 ft above sea level in the Sahya Range, it is distinctly different from others of its ilk. Walking the roads of this quaint hill resort, I found the tranquility of this place overwhelming. I watched women pluck away at the two leaves and a bud, working quietly in the serenity of those verdant slopes. Walking on, I couldn't help
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POTHUNDY RESERVOIR GLISTENING IN THE DISTANCE
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plethora of varying green-lush plantations flaunting acres of coffee leaves entwined with pepper vines, cardamom plants‌ The manager explained the intricacies of GETTING THERE: BY AIR: Nearest airport is in Coimbatore (140km away from the Nelliyampathy). Nearly 40 regular flights are available from Delhi, Kolkata, Bengaluru and Mumbai to Coimbatore and from south cities, including Chennai, Bengaluru and Hyderabad. Tourist taxi from airport to Nelliyampathy costs about Rs 3,000. BY RAIL: Palakkad, at a distance of about 75km from Nelliyampathy, is the nearest railway station. One can take a taxi to reach Nelliyampathy, costing about Rs 1500. BY ROAD: Tourist buses as well as state owned buses provide services on regular intervals from cities like Trichur, Kottayam, Kozhikode, Guruvayoor, Cochin and Trivandrum. WHERE TO STAY: Tropical Hill Resorts Tel: 04923-246236 ITL Holidays & Resorts Tel: 04923-246 464/65 Ciscilia Heritage Tel: 04923-206283, 094470 33560
planting, sifting, sorting, curing and the nuances of the different varieties of coffee such as Robusta and Arabica. We also saw the old cardamom curing centre where the cardamom used to be dried, separated, graded and packed. At dusk, the twittering of birds and chirping of crickets punctuated our conversation while we enjoyed freshly brewed tea. Later, our jeep moved smoothly out of the resort, clearing into the little woods in the estate, armed only with a powerful search light to spot wild animals. We saw wild boars and spotted deer scurrying away at our approach and a herd of gaurs vanishing into the dense foliage, annoyed at our invasion into their terrain. But our encounter with the bold and the beautiful were cut short by fierce lightening coupled with deafening thunder and torrential rain. The next morning we went boating in the only lake in Nelliyampathy. Set against the background of tea plantations on hill slopes, it presents a picture postcard view with lotus flowers in bloom. The hills around Nelliyampathy are alive and bustling with picnic possibilities. Exploring another option, we ventured to Sitarkundu at Karuna plantations. Sita and Lakshman are believed to have stayed here during the Vanavasa. It is said that
Sita Devi took bath at the waterfalls here. A tall gnarled tree here is one of the major attractions. The drives out of Nelliyampathy are interesting especially the one leading to Sitarkundu offering a fantastic view of the plains as far as even Palakkad town and the surrounding countryside. We ended our trip with a visit to Mampara, a knoll from where we had a stupendous view of the entire Palakkad Range. After a two-hour journey in a semiopen four wheel drive, through a treacherous terrain, we reached Mampara. The rickety jeep drive beyond an estate was unnerving and twisted up my insides. We discovered the clouds literally floating around like bits of cotton wool. Braving the chill and the ferocity of the wind, I waited patiently for two hours for the mist to clear and click. As it cleared, we had incredible views of enchanting dales, verdant slopes, thick forest and a patchwork of lush paddy fields. Major parts of Palakkad, the dams of Malampuzha, Chulliyar, Meenkara, Mulathara and Walayar and parts of Parambikulam, Pollachi, Coimbatore and Mettupalayam in Tamil Nadu were also visible. Descending the quaint hill station, we realised that Nelliyampathy was God’s gift to the Palakkad, the granary of Kerala. (PHOTOS BY SUSHEELA NAIR)
Carpets & Rugs
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Lansdowne
A cocoon of natural beauty
GREEN VALLEYS OF LANSDOWNE FORM A PICTURESQUE VIEW
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TANUSHREE PODDER t was a wonderful spring morning when, a hearty breakfast later, I began the journey from Haridwar to Lansdowne by road, a small hill station that I had short listed (the criteria of peace and quiet positioned at the pinnacle of my requirement) to beat the heat last summers.
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Believing that there is no better way to know the place than by travelling by a local transport while interacting with the locals, I boarded the state transport bus that had seen better days. It started with a groan and a protest thereafter struggling valiantly to negotiate the steep bends of the road. Despite its shabby appearance, it eventually picked up speed and sped past lush green forests,
small hamlets and fields. It took us about two hours to reach Kotdwar, a small bustling town, the last railhead on this route — the hills spring up from here. It was here that one changed over to a smaller vehicle to go up the hills. The rates are fixed and the umpteen Tata Sumos won't budge until they have 10 passengers. As the driver waited for the last two passengers, I reached the end of
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BHULLA LAKE ENTRANCE
my patience. It was only after I offered to pay the balance that the driver pressed the accelerator and we shot off for the hills. A full hour and a quarter of dizzy drive later, my legs wobbling, I climbed out from the vehicle bang in front of the bazaar. All my exhaustion vanished instantly as I eyed the verdant expanse looming beyond the shabby and nondescript bazaar with its usual array of shops that sold everything from blankets to buckets and bread. It took me a great deal of determination to climb up to the Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam Rest House, standing at an altitude of 1,950m. The rambling structure, dating back to 1888, had once housed the Gorkha Mess before it became an ill-maintained guest house. My room proved to be damp and not-soclean. Luckily, I had no intention of staying indoors save for sleeping on the rather uncomfortable, cold bed inside a huge room. Dumping my lone travelling bag in the room, I ambled across to the Tiffin Top, which is just across the Heritage House. Till date, I do not know the actual name of the peak — at places it was mentioned as Tip N Top. Well! What's in a name? I mused, since the place offered a magnificent view of the Himalayas. It is another matter that a thick blanket of mist obscured the snowclad peaks from my view. THE BHULLA TAL
GARHWAL OFFICERS’ MESS
Not willing to rest my tired limbs, I continued downhill towards Bhulla Tal, a rainwater harvested lake with boating facilities. It turned out to a delightful place with swans and teals paddling lazily around. A sprinkling of gazebos and benches completed the picture. A sense of lethargy took over as the warmth of sun created a languorous environment. Reluctantly, my calves protesting, I began walking uphill. This time, I noticed the quaint, colonial bungalows perched on breathtaking view points. The British definitely knew how to make the best of all situations. Beaten paths with direction boards like bungalow number 2, 3 and names like Burton's, Kenny's, and Warren led to the bungalows surrounded by spacious gardens ablaze with flowers. They were typically colonial structures with sloping red corrugated roof, green painted wooden pillars and roomy verandas running all around along with high ceilings, chimneys, and grates. Nothing has changed in the last six odd decades except perhaps the people living in these houses. Lansdowne is dominated by the cantonment which is perhaps the reason of its being. My curiosity led me to the beautifully maintained Garhwal Rifles' campus. Time seemed to stop as I stepped into the ancient structure that housed the officers' mess. Its
overwhelming view of the snow-capped Himalayan ranges and the goldmine of a library that housed leather-bound, gold lettered rare books preserved from the 1800s, took me to another world, another era. Biographies and travel books, their pages yellowed with age, donated by British officers felt like heirloom in my hands. Albums with black and white photos, priceless documents of the bygone days, transported me to the Lansdowne of yore. Inside the mess was an invaluable collection of food chafers, silver wine decanters, fireplace in black solid wood with ornamental sculpting along with brass pokers, wood panelled walls, tiled floor, medals, guns captured from Germans, Turkish at Mesopotamia during 1915. That the British hunted without qualm was evident in the trophies displayed on the walls. Dozens of lifeless eyes of tigers, bisons, ibex, chital and leopards stared at me from all corners along with pictures of the hunters posing proudly with their guns. There were a couple of hollowed elephant feet, with claws intact, modified into wastepaper baskets. The ubiquitous Sadar Bazaar with its tiny shops was a hub of activity as people thronged the main road and the two tiny streets. The entire area could not have been more than a quarter of a kilometre yet it seemed as if everyone was
ST JOHN’S CHURCH
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A SLICE OF PARADISE
GETTING THERE: BY AIR: Nearest airport is Jolly Grant in Dehradun (100km away from Lansdowne). About 22 flights fly from Delhi, Kolkata, Bengaluru and Mumbai. Taxi services are available from airport to Lansdowne, costing about Rs 2,000. BY RAIL: Nearest railway station is Kotdwar (nearly 40km away from Lansdowne). Taxi services are available from Kotdwar to Lansdowne, costing about Rs 750. BY ROAD: Private and public buses offer services from Lansdowne to Kotdwar in regular intervals. Kotdwar is connected to Delhi by tourist deluxe buses. Lansdowne is also connected to Haridwar, Dehradun and Mussoorie by road. WHERE TO STAY: Fairy Dale Heritage Resort Tel: 01386-262599/ 09412081837 Blue Pine Resort Tel: 9968408984 GMVN Rest House Tel: 01386-262509
converging there. The funny sounding Tipsy Restaurant with its modest menu was teeming with people and I joined the crowd for a cup of steaming tea and a plate of hot pakoras. Despite the name, there were neither tipsy customers nor hard drinks visible at the restaurant. A visit to the museum maintained by the Garhwal Rifles was next on my itinerary. Just next door was a view point from where I caught the extraordinary sight of a setting sun. The fact that I was the only human being at the sunset point made the experience more significant. Sated with the experience, I began trudging back to my lodgings. Once there, I feasted on the simple fare of rice and chicken curry concocted by the lone caretaker who shared the fare with me. Reluctant to hit the sack at 8 in the evening, I sat out under the clear sky dazzling with innumerable stars and absorbed the beauty and stillness all around me. Lulled by the setting, I slipped into deep slumber of the kind I had never experienced even before my head hit the pillow. It had been a long but rewarding day. The next morning, I made my way to the old St Mary’s Church which was constructed in 1887 through private collections started by one Mrs Rundall,
the wife of Captain FM Rundall. A tiny reading room maintained by the Garhwal Rifles now lies where the British soldiers once prayed. The functional St John’s Church stands a few turns down the road. At night as I stepped out of my room, the heady scent of jasmines flooded my nostrils, filling me with joy. There is not much of sightseeing to do at the tiny hill station but it is a place that haunts you much after you have returned to the vagaries of city life. It is a place that allows you to relax, enjoy nature’s bounties and recoup. The melodious chirping of the birds woke me up to a glorious sunlit morning. Feeling totally rejuvenated, I packed my belongings and made my way to the Sadar Bazaar from where I clambered into another Sumo to get back to the drudgery of rat race. But before I began my journey, I threw one last look around me. Thankfully there were no internet parlours, video games, coffee shops, shopping experience and pushy guides around. All I carried back with me was images of the oak woods and blue pine forests, magnificent views of snow covered peaks, and lungs full of ozone rich air. (PHOTOS BY TANUSHREE PODDER)
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Diskit
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The golden sands of Kashmir
THE WIDE EXPANSE OF GOLDEN SANDS OF KASHMIR
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A RIDE ON BACTRIAN DOUBLE HUMP CAMEL IS A MUST DO IN DISKIT. THE TRANQUIL ENVIRONS OF THIS QUAINT DESERT OFFER A PERFECT SOLACE FOR ITS VISITORS
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certainly do. Always smiling, the Lamas are a delight to meet and speak to. Their immense knowledge and passion towards Buddha is infectious. Diskit Village is known for its apricot plantations. Dotted with guest houses and budget hotels, this quaint little village is a major halt for tourists. We stayed at a guest house called Sand Dune which also offered tents where you can expect a couple of more insects besides yourself to accompany you in your sleep. But the guest house is certainly a great bet with small but clean rooms, a tiny verandah for bonfire in the night and decent service. However, if you really want to get a real flavour of the place, stay with one of the several families who rent out rooms to tourists. These are by far the best places to stay and you can treat yourself with delicious home cooked food too.
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hat comes to mind when we say desert? Rajasthan? Heat? That's what even we thought, until we decided to beat the heat for a refreshing change and thus landed at a travel destination, which is a cool desert set amidst mountains. Surprised? We were too. And would you believe if we tell you this place is in India? How we landed in this small little desert tucked between the villages of Diskit and Hunder in Nubra Valley of Ladakh, Kashmir, 110km from Leh and at an altitude of about 10,000 ft is a mystery. But definitely not a mistake! For those looking for some adventure and an off beat destination, this place is a must-see. It offers a breathtaking view
of sand dunes set beautifully against the setting sun of the Himalayan range! The greyish brown sand glitters as you step barefoot and are left completely spellbound by its beauty. Away from the hustle and bustle of the city, disconnected from the outer world — Diskit is pure natural beauty. The adventure began with the road trip. We travelled from Manali to Leh by road, so the 6-7 hour drive to Diskit was not at all a hassle. The landscape en route from Diskit to the desert is fantastic. The scenery changes every five minutes, and while the snow-clad mountains accompany you throughout, large fields, the happily flowing Shyok River, grazing horses, and smiling Lamas holds your attention on the way. If you have already been to monasteries at Leh, the Diskit monastery will not impress you much, but the local people there will
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FOR THOSE LOOKING FOR SOME ADVENTURE IN AN OFF BEAT DESTINATION, THIS PLACE IS A MUST ‘SEE’
GETTING THERE: BY AIR: Leh is the closest airport to reach Diskit and Hundur in the Nubra valley. Direct flights link Leh to Delhi, Chandigarh, Srinagar and Jammu. From Leh, one has to proceed to Diskit (150km away) by road. BY ROAD: Leh can be reached by road between June to October through the Srinagar-Leh route and Manali-Leh route. Buses from Leh run to Diskit on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday & Sunday and take around six hours to reach. You are also advised to book your return ticket for next day the moment you reach Diskit otherwise, it is little doubtful that you will get a seat next day. WHERE TO STAY: Accommodation in Diskit is simple, but ample. Near the Mani Wall, people can get guest house accommodation or can get rooms at Olthang Guest House, Diskit, Nubra Valley Sand Dunes Guest House, Diskit
Diskit being located close to the snow clad Khardong village near the Khardon la pass — the highest motorable road in India — has lots of locals from the valley, who shift their base to this place during winters. Besides, being the headquarters of the Nubra Valley it has many government offices with basic facilities. One is not really spoilt for choices in the village, yet there are some things that a tourist should definitely not miss. Toping the list are the Bactrian camels! A ride on Bactrian double hump camels is totally recommended and though you will have to shell out Rs 200500 for a small joy ride, it's an experience you will cherish for a long time. Next on the agenda is the Diskit monastery. The 350-year old Diskit monastery is situated on the hill, just above the flood plains of the Shayok River. Built at the edge of the approach road, the approach to the monastery is through a flight of steps made of stones that lead to the prayer hall of the monastery. A statue of Maitreya Buddha is enshrined in the hall and there is a huge drum located within the hall. In
the chamber on the second floor, there are many images of fierce guardian deities. The monastery houses about 100 monks and runs a school in its precincts. Desmochhey or Dosmoche, also known as "Festival of the Scapegoat” is the popular prayer festival that is celebrated at Diskit Monastery. The festival is celebrated in February during the winter season, when the Khardungla is not accessible, and a lot of people take refuge in the village. The highlight of the festival is the mask dance, performed by the Lamas of the Monastery to dramatically express the superiority of good over the evil forces. On this occasion, images made of dough are thrown out to deter any disaster occurring and to usher peace and prosperity to the people. The clothes covering the heads of deity statues are removed in this period. Diskit might not be a happening place with lots of buzz around, but it sure offers solace to people who want to escape the cacophony of life and are tired of the greens and waterfalls that usually attract huge crowds during summers. (PHOTOS BY S ARORA)
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Pelling
Let serenity take over A
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C
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(A) A LOCAL WOMAN WORKING ON YAK WOOL (B) A RED PANDA BASKS IN THE FOREST AROUND KHACHOEDPALRI LAKE (C) YOUNG MONKS AT A MONASTERY IN PELLING (D) THE SUSPENDED SINGSHORE BRIDGE
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GAURAV SCHIMAR aving toured northern and eastern Sikkim extensively in the past, I decided to visit Pelling in western Sikkim on the insistence of my friend Radhika, who is also a travel aficionado. So, one fine morning, there we were, at New Jalpaiguri Station, ready for the next leg of the journey on a sparkling new Pulsar that
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belonged to a local friend. The ride was smooth and seven hours and numerous pit stops later, a well appointed sign surrounded by fluttering prayer flags announced our arrival at Pelling. We drove straight into the beautiful driveway of the Elgin — Mount Pandim heritage hotel and were treated to some cherry brandy in its luxurious lobby. The rooms we were ushered into were at once both elegant and expansive. They possessed an air of
serenity about them that is reflective of the peaceful environs and rich Sikkimese culture. “Pelling has one of the richest traditions in Sikkim,” were the words of the manager of Pandim as she took us on a guided tour of the heritage property. After making a mental note of the places to see in and around Pelling and gulping down a cup of tea, we walked out to the legendary Pemayangtse monastery, believed to be the
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37 oldest monastery in Sikkim. Built in 1705 by Lhatsun Chempo (one of the Lamas who performed the consecration ceremony of the first Chogyal) under the watchful eye of Mt Kanchenjunga, the monastery has been the centre of all religious activities for the monarchs. This monastery is the main centre of the Nyingamapa sect, essentially a tantrik sect established in the early eighth century. We spotted many frescoes around the monastery depicting tantrik Buddhist themes. But it was a gigantic representation of Buddhist heaven — or sangthopalri in wood which occupied an entire chamber on the second that took our breaths away. The sculpture is believed to be the handiwork of a single monk who
spent half his life on the marvel. Just as we were leaving Pemayangtse, the monastery started resonating with Buddhist chants and we couldn't but help sit on a nearby bench to soak in some divinity. It started getting dark and we saw some young monks setting up butter lamps in the complex. The soft glow of the butter lamps made the place look even more mystic and we returned to Mount Pandim with a strange sense of peace. Since I had promised Radhika that we would drive to the Cheese factory at Dantem, I knew there would be no way out of it. I woke up with a sigh and was dumbstruck at the sight that welcomed me when I drew open the curtains. Right in
THE LUSH GARDENS OF ELGIN MOUNT PANDIM HOTEL
TREKKERS MAKE THEIR WAY IN THE SNOW OF SINGALILA
front of me was the mighty Kanchenjunga with all its five treasures shining brightly! The view was awe inspiring and unexpected as it had been too cloudy to see anything since we had come. I pulled out the camera and rushed to the terraced garden to set up the tripod. After that, I confess, I lost track of time. After Radhika reminded me of our trip to Dantem, we tucked in a quick breakfast before heading out to Dantem 20km away. Dantem is famous for two things. The first is its alpine cheese factory where Radhika filled up her bag with 10 pounds of cheese. That pound of cheese vanished even before we reached the nearby Singshore Bridge, which is the second thing Dantem is famous for. Our next foray in Pelling was to the famous Rabdentse ruins where we arrived after a three km trek through thick bamboo and pine forest. The trek was steep in parts but was made easier by stone paved pathways and encouraging sign boards like, “Fatigued? Ancient Ruins just 500m ahead!” It was interesting to learn that, Rabdentse became the capital of Sikkim
by the fireplace in the lobby and enjoying Sikkimese cuisine. The following morning saw us at Khachoedpalri Lake. Khachoedpalri, which means 'mountain of blissful heaven', was exactly that. Native Buddhists believe that the lake which is encircled by a thick forest, is in the shape of a footprint of goddess Tara. The fact that we were at a revered spot was made apparent by the fact that many devotees were doing pooja on the banks of the lake. As we went for a short trek around the lake we were delighted to spot a red panda basking on the top of a tree munching merrily away on the lush bamboo leaves completely oblivious of anything around him. I managed to get some striking poses of the red cuddly bear on film before heading back to Pelling. The last hour at Pelling was spent in the garden of Pandim over lunch with tufts of clouds billowing over the Kanchenjunga in the distance. Everything was quiet and serene. Just perfect or 'Pelling Perfect!' to put it the way I felt. (PHOTOS BY GAURAV SCHIMAR)
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GETTING THERE: BY AIR: Nearest airport is Bagdogra (154km away from Pelling). Close to 22 flights are available from Delhi, Kolkata, Bengaluru and Mumbai to Bagdogra. From Bagdogra, one can hire private taxi or jeep for Pelling. BY RAIL: Nearest railway station to Pelling is in Jalpaiguri at a distance of approximately 187km. From there, private taxis, buses and jeeps are available for Pelling. BY ROAD: Regular tourist buses, private jeeps and taxis connect Pelling with (145km) Gangtok, Siliguri (133km), Darjeeling (74km) and Kalimpong (90km). WHERE TO STAY: Elgin Mount Pandim Tel: 03595-250756/273/353 Hotel Samtenling Tel: 03595-258297
when Tenshung Namgyal, the second Chogyal of Sikkim shifted his capital here from Yoksum in the 17th century. As we arrived at the spur on which the palace and monastic complex of Rabdentse was situated, we were pleasantly surprised to see that the ruins were well preserved. For once, I was all praises for the efforts of the Archaeological Survey of India. We clambered to the top of the ruins which might have been the monarch's chamber where we were treated to picturesque views of the surrounding valley and the Kanchenjunga. Most of the evening was spent shopping for souvenirs in the market and the rest at Pandim playing ludo and chess
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COVER STORY
Yelagiri —
Unexplored haven of tranquility SUSHEELA NAIR s our vehicle plodded up the Ghat Road from Ponneri to Yelagiri, negotiating sharp, meandering U-turns and 14 hairpin bends, new vistas of the jungles and valleys unfolded before us. It was a pleasant drive through the semi evergreen forests interspersed with towering eucalyptus trees. Strangely, all the hairpin bends are named after reputed Tamil poets and personalities. En route we tarried awhile to soak in the pristine beauty of the luxuriant foliage, taking deep breaths of the crisp, clean, morning air. The hill slopes were carpeted with the vibrant flowering lantanas. The Gulmohars — redder and brighter than the ones in the city — were ablaze, setting the azure sky on fire. We also sighted several inverted D-shaped bee hives, overhanging precariously from the branches of the trees. Driving through verdant foliage, we felt rejuvenated breathing in the invigorating air. As we stopped at the seventh bend to catch a glimpse of the scenic wonders, the morning mist unveiled an array of bucolic delights in the valley — a cluster of hamlets and fields of yellow-green paddy. Coconut plantations and vegetable farms added to the scenery. As we passed a semi evergreen stretch, there was a discernible drop in temperature and we could sense the quietude of the hill station. When we reached the BSNL tower, we realised that we were in close proximity to the small township. Sprawling over an area of 72 sq km, at an altitude of 3,500 feet in the Eastern Ghats, Yelagiri is sandwiched between Vaniyambadi and Tirupattur towns in North Arcot district. The erstwhile property of the Yelagiri Zamindar family was taken over by the Government of India during the early 1950s. One can
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BOATING IN PUNGANUR LAKE CAN BE AN ENCHANTING EXPERIENCE
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see still the ancestral house of the Yelagiri Zamindars in Reddiyur in the plains. Yelagiri exudes a more desi charm than the usual colonial-style hill stations. It is minus colonial mansions and vantage points named after erstwhile British rulers and soldiers. It was a watering hole of the wealthy leather merchants from Vaniyampadi. Currently, Chennaites and Bangaloreans head to this popular weekend getaway to escape from the sweltering summer heat. The best way to enjoy one's stay at Yelagiri is to allow its tranquil environs set the pace for you. We chose to potter around, starting with the Punganur Lake. We clambered up the machan (platform) atop a massive tree to have a bird's eye of the view of the lake and its environs. There's the garden around the lake, and an artificial fountain at the centre of the lake spouting water upto a height of 15ft. The fountain is illuminated at nights with colourful lighting arrangements. We took a stroll around the circular walkway around the artificial lake. Not inclined for a boat ride, we simply relaxed by the water's edge watching the ripples in the lake. The hill retreat of Yelagiri has a cluster of 14 hamlets. Surrounded by miles and miles of ripened paddy and mustard fields heightened by the brilliant hues of their yellow flowers, Yelagiri is a back-to-nature destination par excellence. We strolled around the villages like Athanavur, Nilavoor and Kothayoor and savoured a slice of the heart of rustic Tamil Nadu. We had a peek into their pastoral lifestyle. The mud walled, thatched roof dwellings and granaries of farmers contrasted dramatically with the vernal surroundings. We saw villagers escorting cattle langurously on green pastures, and heard the bleating of goats afar, all in the backdrop of the hills. While ambling around the countryside, en route we came across some Malai-Allees, (presumed to be the descendants of a fleeing warrior clan during the regime of Tippu Sultan) returning home with loads of firewood and their cattle. We headed to Nilavur village known for its lake and an Amman Temple which comes alive on Fridays when villagers congregate here for a special pooja. A brightly coloured idol just by the side of the lake grabbed my attention. These guardian deities, found only in Tamil Nadu, are worshipped as protectors of villagers and are often known as Aiyanars. While basking under the shade
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(A) YELLOW FLOWERS HERALD A WELCOME (B) MIST CLOAKED HILLS (C)NILAVUR LAKE (D) A THATCHED GRANARY
GETTING THERE: BY AIR: Bengaluru is the nearest airport (145km away from Yelagiri) and is wellconnected to major cities of India. Taxis are available and fare is about Rs 3,000 from Bengaluru to Yelagiri. BY RAIL: Jolarpettai is the nearest railhead (about 21km away from Yelagiri). Jolarpettai is a main railway junction. Taxi fare is about Rs 450 from Jolarpettai railway station to Yelagiri. BY ROAD: Regular bus services are available from Tiruoathur (27km), Bengaluru (140km), Chennai (250km), Krishnagiri (40 km )and Vanayambadi (20km). WHERE TO STAY: Hotel Hills Tel: 04179-245301/2/3 Hotel Landmark Tel: 04179-295411/10
of a sprawling banyan tree, the only sound that interrupted the tranquility was the tinkle of cowbells and the chirping of birds. The hilltop Velavan Temple dedicated to Lord Murugan, flanked by a gigantic statue of Gadothgajan in front is another interesting place of worship in Yelagiri. Incidentally, the temple is also a perfect viewing point. The Government Silk Farm here is worth a visit. If you have a penchant for adventure, you can scale many peaks, explore jungle paths and birding trails, attempt some easy treks and scramble over boulders and rocks. Our guide informed us of the various treks. There are two main trekking routes — one from Athanavur to Swamimalai Hills (4338ft) which is just two km, the other from Athanavur to Jalagamparai waterfalls makes for more adventurous trek. Adventure enthusiasts embark these lesser trodden routes to savour some pristine wilderness not normally seen on the tourist itinerary. The Attaru River flows through Yelagiri Hills and hurtles down as Jalagamparai waterfalls. The falls are at their best post monsoon. Close to the falls is
a Murugan temple located within a building constructed in the shape of a Lingam. The trek to Swami Malai, the highest peak, soaring to 1128ft from Mangalam hamlet passing through dense vegetation is ardous. However, it is worth the effort for the stunning views. Trekkers normally embark at the crack of dawn for the trek and return before 9 am, for it can get very sunny and rather uncomfortable. All along the way, one can listen to birdsong echoing across the woods. En route, there are huge boulders on which one can rest and take deep breaths of fresh air, when one has exhausted all stamina and energy. The place is also ideal for trekking, rappelling or rock climbing. Once you reach the summit, you’ll find a small cave temple below a massive rock. You can ascend the rock with the help of a metal ladder. A traditional torch is lit atop the rock during Karthika Deepam and the surrounding hills are aglow with the light. Standing on the rock, you can watch the green blanket of the flora coming into focus when the clouds part momentarily. (PHOTOS BY SUSHEELA NAIR)
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MILES N MORE
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Let loose the adventurous you City populous can generally be classified into couch potatoes and tech potatoes… killing away their time either in front of a television or computer screens… But this summer, leave the harmful rays of the coloured screen and soak your eyes in the natural beauty that abounds in various parts of India. It’s time to get adventurous and go for that long unexplored trek that you have been planning for a long time… a rucksack, a companion and loads of determination, is all you need…
CAMPING AMIDST UNADUTERATED WILDERNESS OF UTTARAKHAND
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Trek: Garhwal
Triyuginarayan to Panwali: Blaze a trail
TAKING A BREAK AMIDST SURREAL ENVIRONS OF GARHWAL HIMALAYAS
GAURAV SCHIMAR
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trek to Panwali?” and added in the same breath, “I can take you there!” Now that even the SDM had made us believe that it was not advisable to attempt going to Panwali as it gets risky in heavy snow, we were a bit sceptical. But Rawat, the guide, put our apprehensions to rest and after taking us through the brass tacks, went off to fetch his pony and supplies for the trek, as we waited anxiously for his return.
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here is no way I can give you permission to go to Kedarnath this time of the year!” were the words of the SDM at Ukhimath. It was winters and that is exactly why I and Manish were there, to experience the splendour of Garhwal
Himalayas in winters. But life is all about plan A and plan B, especially when in the mountains. Thus, we found ourselves at Triyuginarayan, the temple town where Lord Shiva is believed to have solemnised his wedding to Parvati. While we were having a cuppa at a dhaba, a short and burly man walked up to us and shot without warning, “Namaskaar saab jee! Are you here for the
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BUGYALS OR MEADOWS CONVERT INTO SKI SLOPES IN WINTERS IN GARHWAL
GETTING THERE: C There are two options to reach Panwalikantha. Besides Triyuginarayan on the Kedarnath-Rudraprayag road, the other way to start the trek is from Uttarkashi. C The trek route in Uttarkashi starts from Lata and takes you to Panwalikantha from Budhakedar and Guttu. C If you have time on your hands you should do the entire stretch. C The nearest airport to Triyuginarayan is Jolly Grant in Dehradun (283km). C The nearest railhead is at Rishikesh (215km). C Regular buses are available from Rishikesh, Haridwar and Dehradun. WHERE TO STAY: C Though you can stay and dine with the gujjars in their huts on the way, it is better to carry camping equipment, stock of rations, and a kerosene stove, as wood gets damp in rains. C X-treme X-on (M: +91 9456709898; email: xtremexon@gmail.com) organises regular treks in the region round the year. BEST TIME TO GO: The best time to go on the trek is in the monsoon when the wild flowers are at full bloom and the brooks gurgling. Winters provide stunning imagery and the summers a relief from the heat. August is the best time to view meteor showers from Panwali.
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ESSENTIALS: The gradient at times gets pretty demanding so be sure that you get into shape before embarking on the trek. Carrying rainproof gear is essential in monsoon, goes without saying. If you are attempting the trek in winters then heavy woollens and a windproof jacket is must.
Triyuginarayan is a small temple where Lord Shiva is believed to have married Parvati. A little later, he returned with a brawny pony on which we put about half our belongings so as not to overburden the beast, rest of it, we stuffed in our rucksacks. Rawat made us follow the ponies as he took us down a trip to the memory lane. “In the past, there were no roads and cars and pilgrims used to trek all the way from Gangotri to Kedarnath. The demanding journey that started from Uttarkashi, took one through Lata, Budhakedar, Guttu and Triyuginarayan before culminating at Kedarnath. Panwali was on the way and was a favoured spot for many to break journey.” He continued with a sigh, “Since roads have been made, everyone just takes a car to go to Kedarnath.” I cheered him by telling him the fact that since not many pilgrims use this route any more, the ecology of the region has remained intact and this blissful haven continues to be a trekkers’ paradise. The animated discussion made us forget about time, till our leader ahead stopped his trot. Rawat eased off his burden to let him munch on the lush grass. We had reached Maggu Chatti at 9,900ft, where we set up camp on a flat stretch by a brook and retired for the day. As we started the gentle ascent southwards the next day, our lenses had much to shoot as the tree line gave way to the Himalayan panorama. The Gangotri range, along with Kedar and Meru was right in front of us. As we were catching our breath at the pleasant Kinkhola Khal (Khal means a pass in Garhwali) at 11,200
ft, Rawat forced us to continue walking, as we had much to cover. Our merry gang was now passing through a slippery rocky path and the march was now a little more strenuous, but the sight all around us kept our hearts smiling all along. We crossed a few, partially-snow clad bugyals (meadows), that still had enough grass to feed the scores of sheep, which the gujjars and their bear like gaddi dogs were watching over. The Himalayan peaks drifted in and out of view, as did birds of various hues, even as Manish, an avian fanatic could not recognise many of them, Rawat enlightened us with their local names. It was time to call it a day, and we could not help but camp in one such bugyal for the night. Up ahead, we enjoyed walking through even more snow, albeit a little slippery, in even more surreal environs. After a few hours, we passed a small number of abandoned gujjar hutments, soon after which we came to a huge meadow, half covered in snow and still boasting of many wild flowers and mushrooms. Panwalikantha at 13,000ft was just the way we had imagined it. I set up the tents as Manish and Rawat went about cooking food. As the pony disappeared to find his favoured chow, I also slipped to explore Panwali. Sense of direction and time eluded me as a tiny cliff top allured me to conquer it. The night sky was twinkling with stars and the half winter moon gave all that I needed for my camera. Just when I was climbing down, a bright shower in the sky made me jump! Meteorites! As I almost tumbled and fell, Rawat came about searching for me and grinned, “Do not worry Saab, come here in August and you can spend many nights watching the shooting stars from Panwali.”
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Trek: Zanskar
Phey to Ralakung: Flight through yore
n the jet age, where everything pops out on Google, it’s heartening to know that there are still some locales that do not figure on any map. “When my uncle was a young man, he ran away from the house and disappeared in the Zanskar Valley for a month and came back with tales of a virgin land he had found,” as I heard these words I almost fell off the bed I was trying to doze off on. I was with Tashi at his village in Phey, dreaming of opening new trekking routes this winter and instantly, my heart knew that this was what I was looking for. Now Tashi is a huge mine of information on Ladakh and
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especially on Zanskar, since he comes from there. Later in the evening, apprehending my excitement over the ‘Promised Land’, he handed out the backdrop on the place his uncle had escaped to — Ralakung. The story, as it has been handed down over the ages, was just the right fodder for my wandering spirit. Once a lama by the name Kaptoe came from Tibet to Zanskar and met the king of Zangla. The king was impressed by his intelligence and vast knowledge of Buddhism that he kept him as his personal aide in the palace. But as fate would have it, the king got infuriated with Kaptoe over some mix-up one day
and threw him off the palace roof. But fall, Kaptoe did not. He instead flew to a precipitous, yet beautiful valley. There, at night, a bright and colourful calf came up to him, nudged his robe and spoke, “You shall settle here and bring peace and harmony to the region by a good produce of barley and livestock.” Thus, Ralakung Phema came into being. Now, I could not fly to Ralakung, but the next morning saw me and Tashi embarking on the first leg of the trek from Phey to Laphyang. We ascended steeply to Thet la, from where we could see whitewashed peaks of Zanskar range. A few hours of walk saw us through snow-
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ZANSKAR RIVER CUTS A DEEP AND NARROW GORGE THROUGH THE ZANSKAR RANGE
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TREADING OVER A MAKESHIFT WOODEN BRIDGE EN ROUTE RALAKUNG
GETTING THERE: C After reaching Phey in the Zanskar region, you have to follow the unlaid trail to Thet La. C From there, move on to Laphyang and from Laphyang, to Ralakung Phema and Ralakung Nagma. C Leh is the nearest airport to Phey. C The road to Phey is well connected to Leh. WHERE TO STAY: C Phey has Homestays as the locals at Ralakung are kind enough to give you shelter. But do carry your own equipment at all times in the region. C Ladakh Eco Trips (Tel: 9419815906; email: ladakhecotrips@gmail.com) is your best bet for getting a trek organised for Ralakung.
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BEST TIME TO GO: The best time to go is from August to September as the valley is lush. But for the die-hard adventure enthusiast, any time is a good time to go. ESSENTIALS: Ralakung is one of those places which do not figure on any map, thus taking along an experienced guide on the trek is highly recommended.
The legendary house of Kaptoe is indeed existing and well preserved, along with his prayer instruments and copper cooking pots. covered Karatatshey, which converts into green pastures in summers. We crossed the Chomda River, to reach Laphyang by late noon, where we decided to camp along the burrows of long tailed marmots. Tashi informed me that the area was home to the brown bear. The river was half frozen but did not deter some of the most colourful birds to look for feed. The next day saw us gradually ascending to Shakldap and I had to stop every now and then to catch my breath, till we reached Phema La (15,000ft). Tashi took out a bunch of prayer flags which he tied at the pass before descending through a coiling trail to Takna Phunsum. We stopped there for a while and plucked some juicy rubraum flowers, which we sucked on to pep up ourselves for the last leg of the journey ahead. We walked for the next half an hour through a thick grove of medicinal plants after which we could finally spot the Ralakung Phema hamlet. When we reached the hamlet, an old wrinkled
woman gave us shelter in her house, who we later learned, knew Tashi’s uncle! After digging into tea and bread butter, offered to us kindly by the old woman, we set about exploring the ‘Promised Land’. We trekked atop the Nagma La where Tashi went about his business with the telescope and me with my camera. The views were stunning from the pass. Tashi pointed out to the nest Lammergeyer in the distance and informed me that there was a good chance of seeing the young ones of the bird in it. There was much to learn in the few days that we were going to spend in the twin hamlets of Ralakung around the Nangma and Phema rivers. We met some really interesting locals who opened their hearts and homes to us, which made us really feel that we were in the ‘Promised Land’ indeed. Some of the other members of the eight odd families at Nagma village, ensured to come along with us to guide us to the hidden wonders of the land. We, of course, saw the legendary house of Kaptoe, existing indeed and well preserved, intact with his prayer instruments and copper cooking pots. All these keepsakes transported us back to a page in the history book. What made it all the more interesting was the fact that none of it has ever been documented. But then, Ralakung is the kind of unknown legends that Ladakh is made up of.
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Trek: Singalila
Rimbik to Sandakphu: On higher grounds
YOUNG GIRLS ENJOY A GAME OF CRICKET AT SUKHIM TREKKERS LODGE AT RIMBIK
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possibilities of finding the exotic through a trek, originating from Rimbik, going through the Singalila Range and National Park to Sandakphu-Phalut. Now I am not the types to loiter about much when better things are in store higher up and decided, even before dinner, to start my mountain rambles the next day. “An easy trek,” had said Shiva Rao.
But a word of caution about hill people — when they say an ‘easy trek’ — it means you will be encountering a steep gradient for sure, as I discovered the first hour of the trek the next morning. And what’s more, I came across a bunch of hill women busy picking up dead forest wood who smiled at me while I sat puffing for breath. Smirking at my incompetence, I
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he search for the elusive and exotic takes people to far off places. In my own quest once, I found myself driving out to Rimbik from Darjeeling at the suggestion of a fellow pahari friend. I checked into the trekker’s lodge at Rimbik where Shiva Rao, the most humble caretaker, enlightened me on the
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48 GETTING THERE: C There are two routes through which you can do the Sandakphu-Phalut trek. One is to start from Rimbik and go to Ramman, Phalut, Sandakphu, Jaubari and end at Maneybhanjyang. C The other one starts from Maneybhanjyang and ends at Rimbik. C The nearest railhead is New Jalpaiguri, from where you may have to book a cab, as regular buses do not ply on this route. C Bagdogra is the nearest airport. WHERE TO STAY: C There are a few trekker huts on the route where you can halt for the night. C At Rimbik, Shiva Rao of Sukhim Trekkers Lodge (M: +919733235921/9474101440) arranges for organised trekking and camping in the region. BEST TIME TO GO: The ideal time to go for the trek is from October to December and April to June. Monsoons can be avoided.
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A LONE LADY TREKKER MAKES HER WAY TO PHALUT
presumed. Anyways, I moved on only to find myself in thick foliage and a signage outside a huge bungalow announcing, ‘Welcome to Singalila National Park’. It was just late morning but I was already hoping to make camp in the forest rest house. But as the hills would have their way, there was no caretaker to be found around and I had to move on. As the day progressed, so did the heat of the summer month and that ensured both my water bottles were empty with no signs of a refill anywhere. I did cross a muddy lake, but I let go the thought of doing a ‘Man Vs Wild’ do and moved on. Dehydration struck soon enough and just when I thought I was about to collapse, I heard a sound ahead. A leopard! I had no choice now but to face the beast, since I was in no position to run for safety. But the voice remained fixed and that is when I finally started moving and came upon the source of the sound — a little stream flowing down! Phew! I rested for a bit and
after refilling the bottles, crossed over the bridge and arrived at Ramman, where a trekkers hut was a welcome sight indeed, all the more since there stood an attendant smiling through his bidi. As guided by the caretaker, I had to cover 14km the next day, over six hours. But another word of caution about the hill people — an hour in their jargon is equivalent to probably 16 in ours (Ok! I am exaggerating! At least 12!). But that did not matter to me then, as I was walking, listening to birdsongs in the thick forests that surrounded me. I picnicked happily by the furious Ramman River. However, soon enough, the smile was wiped off and replaced by a pant as the trail now was the steepest I had encountered so far. But the oxygen makers in the guise of chestnut, fir and birch, helped me climb (rather trudge) on. Another three hours of ascent finally brought me to the tri-junction of Sikkim, West-Bengal and Nepal — Phalut, a little
Phalut is a corruption of the Lepcha word Fak-Lut, which means the peeled summit, which is understandable as the spur is devoid of any trees.
ESSENTIALS: Potable water becomes a problem at times so ensure you carry ample supply of water. The gradient is mostly steep, thus keep popping those candies every now and then to keep up the tempo. above 10,000ft. Phalut is a corruption of the Lepcha word Fak-Lut, which means the peeled summit, which is understandable as the spur is devoid of any trees, but at the same timemakes for a bewitching sight, due to the high contrast provided by the forest clad ranges below. But I was not aware of all that then, as the setting sun was casting the most beautiful drama ever on the enigmatic Kanchenjunga, right in front of me. I swear, for a minute I did think I could reach out and touch the mighty peaks. Next day I jaunted through one of the most beautiful stretches of mountain paths. The silver-fir forest made for some really incredible imagery. I felt like the mightiest general ever, flanked in the left by the Kanchenjunga peaks and the Everest group on my right! Though the Kanchenjuga appeared a little distant at Sandakphu than at Phalut, I was merry at the sights it offered of the four of the five highest peaks in the world, including the Everest. (PHOTOS BY GAURAV SCHIMAR)
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COMPASS
Tawang MAY 2010 TRAVELX
The journey to
LITTLE KIDS STARE INTO THE DISTANT ARUNACHAL HIMALAYAS FROM BOMDILA
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WOMEN DRYING WHEAT BEFORE JASWANT GARH
SONI SANGWAN
W
They say that when you travel, you must have a destination… But the best part of travel is not the destination, but the journey itself… Travel to Tawang, and you would realise the true essence behind this statement…
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hen the Tibetans were fleeing Lhasa in 1959, Tawang had taken on the mythical role of Shangri La for them. Shangri La — the mythical paradise on earth, nestled among the snow capped mountains, with its Fountain of Youth, promised a safe sanctuary from the marauding Chinese. When the present Dalai Lama managed to make good his escape and reach Tawang, it must certainly have seemed like he has reached Shangri La. Today, after you complete the arduous 555km long journey to Tawang from Guwahati, you, too, will feel that you have found your Shangri La. Like said earlier, the best part of travel is not the destination, but the journey itself. This cannot be truer when you decide to visit Tawang. The journey itself can be quite nerve racking if you wait only to get to Tawang. But if you stop to smell the flowers on the wayside, the journey to Tawang can become equally, if not more enjoyable. And believe me, there is enough to enjoy on the way. But first of all, how do you get to Tawang? The best plan would be to fly to
Guwahati or Tezpur in Assam, and then onwards by road. Plan to halt at Bomdila or Dirang for the night. It takes about 12 to 16 hours to Tawang from Tezpur or Guwahati if you want to do it all in one day. But as I said, there is a more fun way of doing it. Once you have packed your bags, don't leave without making arrangements for your Inner Line Permit (ILP). This official document is your passport to one of nature's most beautiful places. You can obtain the ILP from the Resident Commissioner of Arunachal Pradesh in New Delhi or from the corresponding offices in Kolkata, Guwahati and Tezpur. Foreigners need a Restricted Area Permit for which the procedure is the same. You will need to carry two passport size photographs and residence proof. The procedure is very simple and routine, but essential. It is best to take an early flight to Guwahati and then leave immediately for Tezpur and onwards to Bomdila. Your gateway to Arunachal Pradesh is Bhalukpong, about 60km from Tezpur. The road from here will start to curve and gain in height, beckoning you towards one of the most beautiful places on planet earth. As the road curves, you will suddenly find the plains of Assam
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SIGNATURE ROAD WITH CONSTRUCTION, UNEVEN BUMPS AND STOPS AT BHALUKPONG
changing to what seems like a tropical rain forest — dense vegetation where even the sun's rays cannot penetrate, the eerie sound of jungle crickets, and as you round the bend in the road — the sudden roar of the gushing river will set your pulse racing. Bhalukpong is a rafting node and you should plan to stop here on the way back from Tawang. If you are ready to stretch your legs, visit the Orchid Research Centre at Tippi. There are over 600 varieties of orchids here — several indigenous to the state. In fact, you are not allowed to take certain varieties out of Arunachal Pradesh. The facility is spread over a vast area with several orchid nurseries. There is also a museum where you can see many preserved varieties of orchids. You may not see too many flowering orchids because that happens only during the season, so the museum is a must visit. Also, this is an important pit stop because you may not find any conveniences for a long time. As you gain in height, the terrain will change. And so will the temperature. It is a good idea to carry a light jacket with you. The beginning of the journey may have been in the warm plains of Assam,
but as you rise, there will be quick changes in temperature, especially if it starts to rain. As the demands of a growling stomach take over, it is time to take your pick. There are two options — roadside food stalls run by locals or army run 'munch points'. At Sessa, you will find your first ‘army munch point’. There is a nice lookout point here accompanying some really crisp dosas. We decided to sample the local stall and did not regret it. The pretty woman at the food stall was ready only with tea but she had made chicken curry for the family. A small bowl of this family chicken curry with boiled rice really hit the spot for us. After another long drive — don’t look at your watch too often or try to time the trip; the distances are deceptive as everything depends on the road condition — you will reach your first major halt — Bomdila. You are now at a height of 8,500 ft, in the middle of an alpine forest. The wind is clean and crisp and there is lots to do, but first, find yourself a place to stay. There are many staying options in the main town itself. We found the office of Himalayan Holidays bang in the middle of the main market and the proprietor
Tsering Wange was a mine of information. While he manages the business, his lovely wife, Anshu Jamsenpa, takes trekkers for hikes and has recently concluded a mountaineering training course in Rishikesh. The couple offered us a lot of friendly advice as also logistical support. But what I will always remember them for was the hot, steaming bowl of thukpa that we enjoyed with them. Thukpa is a noodle soup with lots of vegetables, chicken and egg. The soup is very flavoursome but not spicy. To add fire, you get a really hot, red sauce that you add according to the strength of your palate. Bomdila is a great place for trekking. The town sits on top of the Kameng Valley and is surrounded by some beautiful apple orchards. Several circuits are available depending on your level of fitness and your area of interest. For the truly adventurous, there is also a circuit which takes you right up to Sela Pass and involves overnight camping. There is also a small but very beautiful gompa here and most of locals begin their day or any auspicious task by first seeking blessings at this point. In 1962, the Chinese had overrun Bomdila. But by the time they had
Bomdila is a great place for trekking. The town sits on top of the Kameng Valley and is surrounded by some beautiful apple orchards. Several circuits are available depending on your level of fitness and your area of interest.
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Dirang is about an hour’s drive from Bomdila and the locals here can guide you to some great fishing spots. There is also an orchid conservatory here. If you like, you can plan to stay the night at Dirang instead of Bomdila. reached here, most of the locals had fled, leaving behind a ghost town. However, if you speak to locals like Pem Dorjee, who had been a boy in 1962, this time round, there is a firm resolve to stand up to any invasion. Up ahead, Dirang is about an hour’s drive from Bomdila and the locals here can guide you to some great fishing spots. There is also an orchid conservatory here. If you like, you can plan to stay the night at Dirang instead of Bomdila. Several new hotels are coming up here. As you continue your journey towards Tawang, you will need to go up to a height of 13,700 feet. This is Sela Pass, the world’s second highest motorable pass. Frozen most of the year, Sela Top, is also home to a beautiful lake. The really outdoorsy ones have been known to play ice hockey here. We were there in October but the lake was not frozen and we did see two small tents and knew that some adventure junkies had spent the night out here in freezing temperatures. We stopped here for a bite and found ourselves in the kitchen of a small wooden house. On the menu was Maggi. But the altitude meant that we could not get it in two minutes. It took longer to cook. And as we thawed ourselves in front of a bukhari here, we learnt the story of Sela. She was a beautiful local girl who had fought side by side with Jaswant Singh of the Indian Army in 1962. Both had battled for over 72 hours and had managed to hold the Chinese off for that long. But soon, Sela realised that the Chinese would get her, she preferred to jump off the top of the mountain rather than be caught by them. Stories of valour are incomplete
without romantic legend and though there is no historical proof to this one, locals proudly point you to the spot from where Sela jumped. Further along the descent begins. We crossed some beautiful water falls like Rupa, after which, came the compulsory halt. You cannot go beyond Jaswant Garh without taking permission from the brave Garhwal Rifles soldier who were awarded the Mahavir Chakra posthumously in 1962. This beautifully maintained memorial is more of a temple today. What caught my eye and touched my heart was a bunch of letters, postcards and invitations for Jaswant Singh that were on display. Perhaps these were from old comrades or their children. One invitation was for the wedding of a young girl, perhaps the daughter of a comrade who went home because Jaswant ensured that the Chinese could not reach him. Your first view of Tawang will be from across the mountains — a small town, crowning a spur, with the distinctive monastery clearly visible. After you cross another quaint little town, Jhang, you enter Tawang. We stayed at a brand new hotel here, the Gaki Khang Zang. In fact, the hotel had not officially opened its doors and we were quite literally the very first occupants. The hotel is a little away from the main bazaar but you cannot miss it because of its bright colours — it is painted a bright green and blue. Before venturing out we decided to take the day to get acclimatised. Having seen some really plump ducks on the way, we decided to check if the delicious bird was on the menu. Our demand was met with some consternation and while we
wondered whether we had offended any sensibilities, the communication gap became clear. The cook came out of the kitchen to tell us, "Saab, yahan kutta to nahin milega.” “Kutta?” we repeated, dazed. Who had asked for dog? It turned out, “duck” in our plains’ accent had got translated into “dog” by the time the order reached the kitchen, giving ‘lost in translation’ an entirely different meaning. To cut the long story short, that evening we had the best duck I have ever tasted. A word of caution at this stage — only BSNL post paid connections work in Tawang, or rather in most of Arunachal for that matter. And the net is so slow that I was not even able to open the sign-in page. So, enjoy your holiday without any techno disturbances here. The rest is actually necessary because now you are at a height of about 9,000 feet. Take everything slow and do not over exert yourself. A good plan is to apply to the local administration for permission to go to the Sino-Indian border post at Bum La as soon as you arrive and spend the time waiting in visiting the town. Two must dos here are the famous monastery and the War Memorial. Every evening, there is an inspiring light and sound show at the War Memorial. Rare footage of the 1962 War is played out to the sound of real guns. You realise how illprepared India had been when you seen Indian Army soldiers walking in rubber soled PT shoes to take on the Chinese. Special focus is given to Joginder Singh from the Punjab Regiment. When the Chinese invasion began in 1962, he had defended his post in Bum La till his death, while covering the retreat of his comrades.
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MOUNTAIN AND LAKES LEADING TO JASWANT GARH
HIGH AND WINDING SELA PASS AT 14,000 FEET
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54 GETTING THERE To get to Tawang, one has to reach Guwahati first. Regarded as the gateway to Tawang, Guwahati is easily accessible by air and rail. C Flights from Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai and Bengaluru are being served by GoAir (excluding Bengaluru), SpiceJet, Kingfisher, Indigo and Jetlite; while Air India connects only Kolkata to Guwahati. One can also reach Tezpur (160km away) by flight via Kolkata. C When not in a hurry, the ideal way to reach Guwahati is through Rajdhani Express, which shuttles between Delhi and Guwahati. In addition, the Paltan Bazaar Railway Station in Guwahati is a major railway junction on the North-East Frontier Railway from where various express trains ply between Guwahati and cities like Delhi, Kolkata, Chennai, Bengaluru, Bhubaneshwar, Mumbai and Kochi. For more details, please see www.indianrail.gov.in. C From Guwahati, one has to proceed to Tawang by road. Taxis are available on per day basis inclusive of cost of fuel and driver's per diem, not per km. C Helicopter service to Tawang (from Guwahati and Tezpur both) is available, courtesy state government, depending upon the weather conditions. C Tour operators are also available who organise tour from Guwahati to Tawang.
WHERE TO STAY Hotels are expensive, but some amount of bargaining and discounts will get you a good rate. Prices vary according to the season, but you may get good deal in off-season as a walk-in. HOTEL SHANGRILA Near Taxi Stand Ph. 03794- 222275 HOTEL MCLEOD GANJ Ph. 03794- 222310 Besides that there is a modest Government Tourist Lodge and a Circuit House where you can stay, provided you have permits. For more details, log on to http://arunachalipr.gov.in/Accommodation.htm
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PERMITS
C Tourists visiting Tawang require an Inner Line Permit (ILP), which takes approximately three weeks to be issued. C One can obtain ILP from the Resident Commissioner of Arunachal Pradesh in New Delhi or from the corresponding offices in Kolkata, Guwahati and Tezpur. C Foreigners need a Restricted Area Permit for which the procedure is the same. You will need to carry two passport size photographs and residence proof. C Validity of ILP for Indian tourist is seven days, while for foreign tourist, validity is for a maximum stay of 30 days.
ZIGZAGGING ITS WAY, THE RIVER OFTEN FOLLOWS THE TRAVELLER
On display is his uniform, his torn boots and the remains of the gun he had fought with. There is a small souvenir shop here, run by the army, where you can get a certificate to prove that you had visited this memorial giving the altitude of Tawang. The stories of war-time valour go hand in hand with the legends about the Buddhist apostles of peace who had come to Tawang some 400 years ago. In 1681, the fifth Dalai Lama had sent forth a trusted monk to set up a new monastery where the next Dalai Lama could be born. Coming south from Lhasa, the group kept searching, till one day the leader’s horse guided them to the spot where the monastery stands today. Tawang literally means horse chosen. And so was built the Tawang Monastery, which centuries later provided a safe haven for the current Dalai Lama when he fled Lhasa in 1959, explaining the special place that this monastery has in his life and perhaps also explaining why the Chinese attach so much importance to it. The monastery itself is a work of art — housing over 700 monks of all ages. The pride of place is accorded to a 30 feet high gilded wood statue of Buddha. Priceless tankhas crowd the walls telling the story of Buddha. In November last year, the present Dalai Lama had come and stayed here, much to the annoyance of the Chinese and the joy of the locals. The next day, you should go to Bum La. The drive up is breathtaking. You will see the terrain changing suddenly — from alpine to snow bound. We were
lucky to see some vegetation — in fact, the entire landscape seemed aflame with a beautiful pinkish red grass. Yaks peer at you balefully as you drive past. There are some disused bunkers — reminders of 1962. And then the temple to Joginder Baba, as he is fondly called. A small detour will take you to some of the most beautiful lakes you will ever see. And then, the final frontier — the Sino-Indian border. Here you will see a pile of stones — not any stones, these are friendship stones. The belief is that as this heap of stones becomes bigger, the friendship between India and China will become stronger. Every visitor is encouraged to do his bit by adding a stone to the heap. Here you will see evidence of how an imaginary line across a map can play havoc with human lives. The MacMohan Line drawn across a map in 1914 is the reason why the Chinese still lay claim to Arunachal Pradesh. Here, the army soldiers will show you the features across which this line passes. What will take your breath away is the Chinese road. You have just driven across hundreds of kilometres of gravel, loose stones and some under construction tarred road to reach a spot from where you can see a Chinese plateau, connected by a purple cemented road. Gives you something to think about. As you head back, the thoughts that remain with you are those of pride — at being part of a nation where valour is a tradition, hope — that things are improving, and fear — that history may repeat itself. (PHOTOS BY ARIJIT SEN)
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EYE TALK
An orthodontist by profession, Dr Akhter Husain dons many caps — painter, photographer, music buff, computer freak and a romanticist all rolled into one. He has won a number of international awards and distinctions, including the honour of being chosen as the Associate of The Royal Society of Photography, UK. What prompted you to take up photography as a serious hobby? My first encounter with photo media began with a simple box camera of 70’s and my interest grew with landscapes, shapes and forms in nature. Together with my love affair with brush and pigments on canvas, I pursued my artistic ventures blending photograph and canvas. With the advent of digital format, I graduated to blending pigments with pixels, thanks to PC based electronic graphics.
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Your favourite photographers? For location photography Kerrick James; for wildlife M N Jayakumar; for Indian cultures Urs Schwitze; and for photojournalism Steve McCurry. I am more into visual art and creative photography; hence I appreciate Ryszard Horowitz a lot. Any favourite travel destination for taking pictures? I have travelled extensively over the years to several countries like USA, UK, Europe, Malaysia, Singapore, UAE, Saudi Arabia, Nepal, Sri Lanka, etc. Every place is different with interesting cultures. I can never be tired of Ladakh. India, as such, is a photographer’s paradise! Your camera and preferred lenses? I prefer Nikon — D700 and D3x with prime lens 85mm, 1.4 for portraits, 80200 f 2.8 for travel, 105 mm 2.8 vr for macro, 300mm f4 for wildlife.
TAJ AT DAWN: AN EARLY WINTER MORNING SHOT OF THE TAJ MAHAL. I WAS PARTICULAR ABOUT THE DIAGONAL COMPOSITION, WARM ON COLD COLOUR SITUATION. THE PEOPLE WARMING UP BEFORE THE SUNRISE ADD A LOT OF INTEREST TO THE IMAGE.
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SUMMER RHYTHMS: DURING THE SUMMER FESTIVAL AT LADAKH, AN AMAZING ARRAY OF SHOWS WITH DAZZLING COSTUMES AND DANCES TAKES PLACE. SUCH IS THE VIBRANCY THAT EVEN THE CROWD GETS CHARGED AND JOINS IN TO PARTICIPATE... IT'S A VERY SPECIAL MOMENT.
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PUSHKAR: A GROUP OF LADIES IN THEIR TRADITIONAL COSTUMES ARE GOING TO WORK… SET AGAINST THE AMAZING BACKDROP OF THIS HUGE TREE, THE SCENE ALMOST LOOKS PAINTING LIKE.
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(LEFT) EXODUS: IN BHUBANESHWAR, THERE WAS THE MAD RUSH TO GO FOR A MELA WHERE DOZENS OF PEOPLE WERE ALLOWED TO OCCUPY ANY PART OF THE VEHICLE THAT THEY COULD GET THEIR HANDS ON. THE VISIBILITY WAS POOR FOR THE DRIVER, BUT THAT DID NOT DETER THE DRIVING SPEED OF THE CAR. (BELOW) MOTHER AND CHILD: THIS PARTICULAR SHOT WAS TAKEN FROM A MOVING VEHICLE. THE MOTHER WAS UNAWARE BUT THE CHILD WAS CURIOUS AND TURNED BACK.
MAY 2010 TRAVELX
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READY RECKONER
Sail away...
Cruises, which were at one time considered the prerogative of the rich, the only option for the aged and the natural choice for honeymooners, is today fast reaching the wider leisure market. Representing one of the fastest growing sectors worldwide, cruising has now caught the fancy of any regular traveller who is planning a vacation. Today, with the most competitive prices the cruise industry has ever known, these sensational vacations of a lifetime are now within our grasp. So what are you waiting for? It's time to hit the waters!
CRUISE LINE: SUPER STAR VIRGO (EX-SINGAPORE) DESTINATION
SEASONALITY
FARE STARTING AT*
Port Klang Cruise
April to September
US$1,027
Phuket / Langkawi / Redang Cruise
April to September
US$1,130
Malacca / Port Klang Cruise
September and November
US$ 400
Ho Chi Minh City / Redang Cruise
June
US$1,130
MAY 2010 TRAVELX
Penang / Phuket / Malacca /
*All rates are based on per person (twin-sharing) basis. After booking is confirmed, cancellation charge will be imposed for the change of departure date or cancellation of cruise booking. Any other alteration is subject to HK$100 per person administration fee. Above cruise itineraries and rates will be subject to change without prior notice. For more details contact www.starcruises.com
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CRUISE LINE: MSC SPLENDIDA DESTINATION
SEASONALITY
FARE STARTING AT*
Ex Barcelona (Spain)
April to November
US$1,529
Ex Civitavecchia (Italy) May to November
US$1,529
CRUISE LINE: MSC ARMONIA DESTINATION
SEASONALITY
FARE STARTING AT*
Ex Venice (Italy)
April to November
US$1,379
CRUISE LINE: MSC ORCHESTRA DESTINATION
SEASONALITY
FARE STARTING AT*
Ex Keil (Germany)
May to November
US$1,649
*The mentioned fare in US$ is per person based on double occupancy for accommodation in Balcony Staterooms on select sail dates, subject to availability at the time of reservations and is capacity controlled. Port Charges, Govt Fees and Taxes are extra. MSC Cruises offers Mediterranean cruises all year round. So at any time in the year you wish to travel to Europe and take a cruise, MSC Cruises would have some options available. Great deals are generally on offer during March to June and then September and October. It is always advisable to book a cruise much in advance. For more details, contact: http://www.msccruises.com/gl_en/homepage.aspx
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CRUISE LINE: HOLLAND AMERICA DESTINATION
SEASONALITY
FARE STARTING AT*
Alaska
May to September
US$ 599
Asia Pacific
March to May
US$ 1,599
Australia, New Zealand and S Pacific September to February
US$ 1,299
Bermuda
April to October
US$ 799
Caribbean
October to April
US$ 499
Hawaii & Tahiti
September to April
US$ 1,399
Panama Canal
September to April
US$ 999
South America
October to May
US$ 1,099
* The mentioned fare in US$ is per person based on double occupancy. Prices do not include Government Fees and Taxes. Pricing and availability is subject to change without notice. Stateroom availability varies by ship and category. The company reserves the right to re-instate the fuel supplement for all guests at up to US$9 per person per day if the NYMEX oil price exceeds US$70 per barrel. For real time pricing and availability, please call at 0124-4114196 Ext -316 or email us at gayatri@sticgroup.com.
CRUISE LINE: WINDSTAR CRUISES DESTINATION
SEASONALITY
FARE STARTING AT*
Caribbean
November to April
US$ 1,799
Europe
April to November
US$ 1,549
Costa Rica
December to March
US$ 2,149
Panama Canal
December or April
US$ 4,499
Greek Isles
May to November
US$ 1,949
Transatlantic
November or April
US$ 1,499
Baltic
July or August
US$ 3,599
Holy Land
October
US$ 4,999
CRUISE LINE: PRINCESS CRUISES DESTINATION
FARE STARTING AT*
Alaska
May to September
US$ 350.00
Caribbean
May to July
US$ 675.00
Europe
September and October
US$ 925.00
Europe
May to August
US$ 1350.00
Panama Canal
September and April
US$ 949.00
South Pacific
October to December
US$ 1549.00
(US$ 1 is equal to INR 44.28)
*The mentioned fare in US$ is per person based on double occupancy for an Inside Category Cabin on select sail dates, subject to availability at the time of reservations and is capacity controlled. Port Charges, Govt Fees and Taxes are extra. The fare includes ship board accommodation, meals, 24 hours room service, entertainment and ocean transportation. Fare does not include any expense of personal nature. For more details, contact: http://www.princess.com/book/index.jsp
MAY 2010 TRAVELX
SEASONALITY
Non-discountable amount included in fares shown. Prices do not include Government Fees and Taxes. Fares are capacity controlled, based on double occupancy and subject to change without notice. Additional discounts may apply. For real time pricing and availability, please call at 0124-4114196 Ext -316 or email us at gayatri@sticgroup.com.
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READY RECKONER
After cricket, it's time for some
f tball
The IPL Mania might have gripped the nation in its clutches, but soon enough; the focus of sports aficionado will shift to the FIFA World Cup. South Africa's natural beauty, the lively energy of its people and the cosmopolitan nature of its various hosting cities, combined with the world's greatest sporting event... will make it the perfect destination to be, come June 2010. So go grab your deal and make the most of FIFA!
GETTING TO SOUTH AFRICA
MAY 2010 TRAVELX
C From India, one can take flight from major metropolitan cities such as Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Bengaluru, Hyderabad, Kolkata to Johannesburg (which is the major airport hub in South Africa and through which one can easily
take onward flights to other host cities). C South African, Qatar, Ethopian, Emirates, Air India and Jet Airways operate direct and indirect flights from Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Bengaluru, Hyderabad, Goa and Kolkata.
C Jet Airways, South African and Air India go direct from Mumbai to Johannesburg. C Emirates, Qatar Airways and Ethopian also connect various cities in India to Johannesburg, with one stop at their hub.
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HOSTING CITIES (SOUTH AFRICA)
Cape Town
Durban
Nelspruit
Johannesburg
Polokwane
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Mangaung/Bloemfontein
Rustenburg
Nelson Mandela Bay/ Port Elizabeth
Tshwane/Pretoria
Offers by airlines/agents for the world cup Emirates & SOTC
Thomas Cook
SOTC Sports & Emirates are offering various combinations of the FIFA packages
Thomas Cook is offering five packages for FIFA World Cup
C Team specific packages C Match specific packages in various combinations of quarter and semi finals C Packages for the final match
C Package 1 — from June 11-15, opening ceremony and opening match C Package 2 — from June 16-20, one match on June 16 C Package 3 — from June 21-27, two matches on June 21 and June 22 C Package 4 — from June 16-24, three matches on June 16, June 20 and June 22 C Package 5 — from July 5-13, three matches: two semi-finals and final
CONTACT SOTC Sports http://www.sotc.in/cms/promotion/FIFA/ fifa-Landing-Page.htm Tel: 09920089666 / 09920089555 or toll free — 1800 209 4777 (US$ 1 is equal to INR 44.28)
PACKAGE INCLUDES: C Flights from Mumbai to Johannesburg (Economy Class on Jet / South African Airways or similar). Services from Mumbai to Durban will also be on offer but only in package 2. C Accommodation on twin sharing basis ranging from 4 to 8 nights. C Return airport transfers and stadium transfers in a shuttle coach. C Visa charges C Overseas health insurance * Prices for the packages vary from US$4,040 to US$9,682 per person on twin share. CONTACT Thomas cook www.thomascook.co.in Tel: 022-67686970 or toll free — 1800-2099-100
Being appointed as participating tour operator for the 2010 FIFA World Cup, Cutting edge is offering authorised travel packages. One can avail packages for opening ceremony, matches to be held under category 1 and 2 on different days, semi finals and final. PACKAGE INCLUDES: C Flights from Mumbai to Johannesburg (Economy Class on Jet / South African Airways or similar). Services from Johannesburg to Cape Town and Durban are also on offer. C Accommodation on twin sharing basis ranging from 3 to 5 nights. C Return airport transfers and stadium transfers in a shuttle coach. C Visa charges C Overseas health insurance * Prices for the packages vary from US$3, 023 to US$9,706 per person on twin share. CONTACT Cutting Edge www.cuttingedgeevents.info Mob: 09820027663
WHY SA? Think of something interesting and simply write a 200-word note on 'Why I should visit South Africa this summer', answer two simple questions, and you could win couple Economy return tickets by Jet Airways on its Mumbai - Johannesburg route. In addition, South African Tourism and Sun City will organise three nights and four days complimentary accommodation at The Palace of the Lost City in Sun City. Participants can submit their note on www.facebook.com/jetairways. The contest will run till May 5.
MAY 2010 TRAVELX
PACKAGE INCLUDES: C Flights from any Emirates hub in India to South Africa (Options available for Economy/Business and First Class) C Transfer between airport and hotel and vice versa C Hotel accommodation in 3/4/5/ star hotel ranging from 5 to 9 nights, depending upon one’s pocket. C Transfer from hotel to the match venue (either via ground or air) C Local assistance by Emirates’ representatives C You need to choose any ‘one’ of the three base camps — Cape Town, Durban and Johannesburg. * Prices for the packages vary from US$ 4,320 (single person, three-star hotel, standard room, Economy Class) to US$ 13,892 (single person, five-star hotel, standard room, First Class). Options are many!
Cutting Edge
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COMFORT FOOD
Meet the
Cool dude Lassi, the popular dairy beverage, gets its unusual name from the Urdu language. The traditional way to make Lassi aka chaach or Matha is by churning large amounts of makhan (butter). But the drink today has come a long way from a simple frothy glass of churned curd‌ we tell you how.
MINT LASSI
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MANGO LASSI
THE TRADITIONAL SWEET LASSI WITH RICH TOPPING
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65 ENJOY A GOOD LASSI AT C Delhi — Kamla Nagar Market; Billi Di Hatti, Chandni Chowk; Kuncha Ghasi Ram, Shyama Sweets at Barshabulla, Kinari Bazaar and Gali Paranthe Wali, dariba, Bazaar Sita Ram, Hauz Khazi Chowk C Kaleva and Bikanervala across all metro cities too have good lassi but with a new version of their own C Jaipur — MI Road C Mathura — Gopal Mishthan
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C With time, the word lassi came to be commonly used in Punjab for the diluted residue of curd after churning out butter fat from it. Lassi with little butter is called makhaniya lassi.
ginger and green chillies. The butter fat is non-existent and it is believed to help in digestion. This beverage is usually served in kulhads (earthen clay glasses) and is a common sight in north eastern Pakistani Punjab regions and in Gujarat and Rajasthan. For all those who thought that only smoking pot could elevate you to ecstatic heights, try the bhang lassi. It is a special lassi that contains bhang, a liquid derivative of cannabis (marijuana). It is legal in many parts of India and is much in demand during the festival of Holi, when getting a bit tipsy is considered normal. Rajasthan is known to have licensed bhang shops, and in many places one can buy bhang products and drink bhang lassi. Mahashivratri is another festival when devotees guzzle this divine bhang lassi. Fruit-based lassi is a recent invention that has found admirers in adults and children alike. When mango pulp is blended with dahi, the result is a divine concoction that fulfils quick breakfast needs. Some mothers add ice-cream, pistachios, raisins and cashew nuts to make it a wholesome shake. In fact, Haldiram in Old Delhi serves mango lassi in a whole mango whose seeds and pulp is extracted. Sipping mango lassi out of a real mango is a very unique experience. Seasonal fruits like kiwi, strawberry, chikoo are other popular fruits that give a lovely texture and flavour to this drink.
C According to Ayurveda, salt is never added into curd or lassi. Some herbs like fresh coriander / mint and spices like black pepper, cumin are used. Adding of salt is a Mughal influence.
C The Ayurveda guideline also prohibits adding cream or milk in curd or lassi/ chaach / matha. Lassi with little turmeric powder mixed in it is also used as folk remedy for gastroenteritis.
C Vrindavan — outside Banke Bihari temple C Amirtsar — Ahuja Lassi and Surjeet Dhaba C Meerut — Sadar Bazaar
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ike all food items, or even beverages, to make any dish to perfection, it is essential to first check the quality of the raw materials used in it. So first things first — if you want to make a perfect lassi, make sure your curd is just right. To make fresh curd, heat the milk till it starts foaming. Remove from heat and allow it to cool down to body temperature or around 100 degree F. For a litre of milk, stir in two table spoons of curd, pour into a glass or earthen pot and cover the utensil. Place the same in a warm place and make sure it remains untouched. Do this exercise in the evening and the following morning, the fresh curd is ready. Remember, lassi makes the curd or yoghurt (dahi) more light and digestible and helps in intestinal comfort. So to enjoy a perfect lassi, it must be made with fresh curd. Lassi, the popular dairy beverage, gets its unusual name from the Urdu language. The traditional way to make lassi aka chaach or matha is by churning large amounts of makhan (butter). The lumps of butter form on top of frothy watery bed. The best way to utilise this leftover nutritious water was to make a beverage out of it. Well, Punjab, which boasts of high milk productions, did just that. Today, the lassi recipe has undergone several changes with yogurt being its main ingredient. Just whisk yogurt, chilled water, sugar or salt together in a blender and you will get super-quick hot-weather refreshment that's calcium rich and rejuvenates you instantly. A coolant, with no-added preservatives, lassi is an ideal cold beverage for parched throats. Since,
churning butter is no longer the practice of common households; this quick fix recipe works well. The originating trails of this popular and traditional drink can be found in northern parts of India and Pakistan. While some like it sweet and creamy others prefer the salty version flavoured with ground roasted cumin. Throw in chunks of mango, strawberry and chikoo in the blender and you can make a healthy smoothie out of this modest lassi. Dahi or yogurt is the base for lassi. Of course, every generation has customised it to its own convenience and now it can be savoured with many variations. The sweet lassi is a common beverage that finds place in the menu cards of roadside dhabas and swish hotels, across the country. A hint of rosewater or saffron lends it a beautiful colour and flavour. And finally, time to choose your dressing. While some like it simple and sweet, there are others who like it topped with dollops of butter and crushed nuts. This sleep-inducing makhaniyaa (butter) lassi has maximum patrons in Punjab and is usually served in huge steel glasses. Another way to make lassi is to add salt and mild spices instead of sugar. It is very common in villages of Porbandar, Gujarat. Interestingly, the salty lassi found in Pakistan is garnished with mint leaves. Some leaves are also blended with dahi that gives it a moss green shade. The quantity of dahi is more compared to water and the consistency is thick and frothy. It is a great drink for diabetics as well. Chaach is lassi’s closest sibling with a few noteworthy changes. This drink is more watery and light on stomach and is seasoned with fresh coriander, ground
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TWIN CITY
She is known for her critically acclaimed performances in films like Fire, Earth, Bawander, Before the Rains and more, but Nandita Das, despite her stern “no nonsense” look, followed her heart, all the way to Mumbai...
DAS IN DELHI TH FATHER JATIN NANDITA DAS WI
SANTANU GANGULY he has acted in over 30 feature films, in 10 different languages, with directors of international repute and achieved another milestone in her life with her directorial debut — Firaaq that claimed many national as well as international accolades. Seeing her work, one is left in no doubt of the fact that she is very passionate about it, and wonders what led to it. Nandita's passion and commitment comes from her background in Human Rights. She did her Masters in Social Work from the University of Delhi and worked with various NGOs. Even today, she continues to advocate issues of social justice. She has been a member of the main jury at the Cannes Film Festival in 2005, Karlovy Vary International Film Festival in 2007 and Marrakech International Film Festival 2009. In 2008, the French Government conferred her with the prestigious Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres. She has always been the Delhi girl, until recently, when she shifted her base to Mumbai. But even after being
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a part of the film industry for a long time, one wonders what kept her rooted to Delhi for so long? "From the time I did Fire in 1996, I would often be questioned as to why I have not shifted to Mumbai. Most saw it as a foolish decision and my explanation that it was by choice and not a temptation I was resisting, did not seem convincing,” she says. Her commitments grew. She became the Chairperson of the Children’s Film Society and even director Deepa Mehta, after seeing her work in film Earth with Aamir Khan, asked her to shift permanently to Mumbai, but the talented actress did not budge. “In short, Mumbai was never an option for me. Also, being a bit of a rebel, the assumption that everybody who had anything to do with films ought to be in Mumbai seemed worth protesting. Time and again, I would be goaded to shift to Mumbai and my resolve to never move became even stronger. But the proverbial ‘never say never’ came true! A few months ago, I fell in love with someone who lives in Mumbai. He could have well lived in Timbaktu and I would have moved there if that was the only way we could be together. So all my arguments and reasoning were thrown out of the window and here I am in the city of skyscrapers and
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slums, co-existing shamelessly,” she adds, smiling, and love, we can see, shining in those eyes. So now that she is living another phase of her life with husband Subodh Maskara in another city, how does it feel? How different is her life in Mumbai vis-àvis her life in Delhi? “Ever since I have shifted to Mumbai I find myself dragged into a fairly meaningless debate about Delhi vs Mumbai. I stayed on in Delhi not so much for the love of the city, but because I found no reason to shift to a different place. In fact, Delhi provided me a neutral space where I didn’t feel compelled to belong to any fraternity. Mumbai was no more the city I visited my maternal grandparents as a child. In the last 10 years, Mumbai, for me, primarily meant the film industry. I didn’t quite feel I belonged there and preferred to be on the fringes of it. The baggage of that life was
NANDITA DAS WITH HUSBAND SUBODH MASKARA IN MUMBAI
enormous as one couldn’t be in the game and not play by its rules,” she explains. So has the city grown on her? Does she like it in Mumbai now? “I still resist liking it, even though the people are more professional and less aggressive than those in Delhi, but I still haven’t found my little comfort corner here. Talking about anything beyond one’s narrow sphere of work and life seems to be the norm. This could well be because the struggle of daily life and commuting saps one’s energy and leaves little room for any other engagement. There! I see myself again being dragged into the unnecessary debate of which city is better,” she exclaims! So what would she like to be called, a Delhiite or a Mumbaikar? “I have always felt more like a citizen of the world and the sense of belonging
has been less and less important. If we are open to change and can embrace different ways of being, then no place seems alien. In all my travels, I have often felt the urge to make many different places my home. Love has brought me to Mumbai and so this is my home,” Nandita describes. However, there must be something that she misses about Delhi… “Wide open roads, lined with old big trees that in the season blossom with Gulmohar and Amaltas, old Mughal ruins littered around the city, adding a rather old world charm to Lutyen’s British architecture and the concrete jungle that is steadily expanding,” she reminisces with a sigh! Well, she might have said goodbye to Delhi, but we hope she keeps doing the good work and make Delhiites proud and well, Mumbaikars too!
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EXOTIC EXCESS
Luxury abounds at
Westin Hyderabad
A VIEW OF THE INTERCONNECTING ROOMS AT THE WESTIN HYDERABAD
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PRIYANKA SAXENA
When you hear Starwood, you expect nothing but the best, and standing true to its brand equity, The Westin Hyderabad Mindspace is a cocoon of luxury, geared to enthral the corporate clientele to the city.
hadn't ever stayed in any of the Westin properties earlier, and my first experience, of the city and property both, is something I will remember for a long time. My lesson on ‘Westin’ began as soon as I sat in the cab that was to take me to the hotel. Seldom do we come across hotel chauffeurs so well educated and informed about the fine nuances of the hotel. "We don’t have to go through the city traffic. We have a direct link from airport that will take us straight to Westin" — was just the tip of the information iceberg that I was to receive later on. The pride was clear. Impressed, I was indeed.
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As you enter Hyderabad’s high-tech city, you understand why Hyderabad is being regarded as the IT hub of India. Ranging from big multinational giants to big Indian companies, all have their offices in here, and nestled in the midst of it all is the newly opened Westin Hyderabad Mindspace. So, it’s a business hotel, I thought, only to be proved wrong later on. Hand folded greeting is now becoming a customised form of addressing guests in various five star properties in India, and the custom here too was no different. But what took me by surprise, pleasantly, was the ease with which the reception desk handed me my
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room key just as I stepped in and a lady dressed in a wonderfully bright turquoise uniform escorted me to the lift area. That felt special. My uplifted spirits however sank a bit as I juggled with the lift buttons. My room, I was told, was on the first floor, and the lift numbers started with 11, 12 13… and none of them budged when I pressed them. Taking note on my bewildered look, a fellow guest informed me that I needed to swap my room key in order to get the lift working and that ‘11’ in the lift actually meant ‘1’. Well, so much for dynamics! Vast expanse of the lobby area is perhaps the first thing that hits you about the hotel. The space does not look cluttered and yet has ample seating area for guests or visitors. Done up in subtle shades of brown and crème, the interiors have an ‘easy breathe in’ feel to it. A curvy wooden staircase accompanied by some gurgling water on its side leads you into the basement area of the hotel, which houses its Italian speciality restaurant ‘Prego’ and the ‘heavenly spa by Westin’ which is not yet operational now (will hopefully be working by June starting). It also houses some 14,000 square feet of meetings area, which given Westin’s unique blend of personal and instinctive service, custom-designed menus, and latest meetings technology is sure to make any event a success and a memorable one. When in the lobby, the urge to look up and see the corridors of the 15 floors above forming a perfect square is a delight to watch. Not many hotels today have that kind of a high ceiling architecture, so this one, looks unique and quite interesting. Westin Hyderabad Mindspace’s all day dining restaurant — ‘Seasonal Tastes’ allows for casual dining presenting a perfect confluence of Indian and international flavours. From spicy chicken tikka to onion vada, the cuisine here truly reflects the cosmopolitan mix of crowd that throngs ‘Seasonal Tastes’ to enjoy a meal. And please don’t miss the
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QUICK FACTS C The hotel is 30 minutes from international and domestic airport C It is seven minutes from Hyderabad International Convention Centre C It has 428 guestrooms and suites C Its restaurants include Seasonal Tastes, Prego, Kangan, Mix, Daily Treat and Splash C It has five banquet areas — Westin Ballroom, Evolve, Energize, Thrive and Renew — with a total space of 14,000 sq m
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C Westin Terrace Garden can accommodate 450 people hazelnut flavoured ice ream served in its ice-cream corner — it’s truly to die for! Siesta time led me to the plush interiors of my room, where a “heavenly” bed awaited me. Plonking the pillows into a comfortable heap, I nestled to browse through the channels on the 37" flat screen TV and have no clue when sleep took over. Evening time was best enjoyed taking a stroll by the poolside and later enjoying a Virgin Mary at ‘Mix’ — the lounge bar, which is the perfect place to unwind with friends after a long day’s work. The place has many takers as lots of professionals working in the high-tech city, come here to enjoy an evening drink. A hearty meal at the Indian speciality restaurant — ‘Kangan’ and the matching bangles that the bangle maker at the restaurant made for me, complimentary, was the perfect icing on my Westin visit cake. The day had come to an end and yet there was so much left unexplored. The WestinWorkout fitness centre, which I was told has the latest and best equipment and facilities for workout, a drink by the poolside, a splash in the water and a spa treatment in my room (till the spa does not get functional)… well, like they say, there’s always a next time.
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(PHOTOS BY WESTIN HYDERABAD MINDSPACE)
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(A) SEATING AREA AT THE LOBBY; (B) THE EXECUTIVE SUITE; (C) THE POOL AREA; (D) STAIRCASE GOING FROM THE LOBBY TO THE BASEMENT
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LIQUIDICTION
Coolest hang out
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THE WAITING LOUNGE FOR THE ICE BAR HAS A VIBRANCY TO IT THAT'S TOUGH TO ESCAPE
Ever worn a jacket-gloves combo while it's blazing 42 degrees? Visit FREEZE, the newly opened lounge bar in the capital, dance and enjoy a drink in -10 degrees temp, and summer nights will never be same again!
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THE DINING AREA OFFERS AN UNFORGETTABLE CULINARY EXPERIENCE
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The lounge bar dishes out cold platters and grilled snacks, offering a perfect hot and cold combination! projector screen. Both the floors have separate kitchens and bars. DJ console and floor are here to rock the people. The entire concept has taken its inspiration from the London’s Ice Box, whose owner Philip Hughes was also present at the launch of the ice lounge. The interiors have been designed by Lavprit Singh. In addition to its extraordinary concept is the commendable task performed by the FREEZE team of putting the entire lounge together in mere 31 days. Mohit Jain, Saurabh Katyal and Siddheshewar — the men behind the ice lounge have done a tremendous job. So this summer, you don’t have to go to the hills to beat the heat. Go to FREEZE and enjoy the mercury dip. The non vegetarians must try the signature dish — bannu kebab while the vegetarians can savour the melt-in-the-mouth corn seekh kebabs. Like said, one is spoilt for choice here. So go ahead and savour some unique delicacies like frozen paan, chuski and kulfi in an equally ‘freezing’ environment.
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two levels, maintaining a temperature of +10 on the third floor, and -10 on second ith the mushrooming of floor, which is popularly known as 'Grub malls and multiplexes Zone’. To brave the cold, people are issued concentrated in the heavy jackets, boots and gloves. This 40Rajouri Garden area of seater segment has a well-stocked bar and West Delhi, the the staff here is changed every 30 minutes! destination has become a favourite haunt of The waiting area, again maintaining a many a youngsters today. Tapping upon this temperature quite low, has a charged up youth vibrancy, FREEZE is the new and feel to it, thanks to the groovy pulsating unique name to the list of lounge bars, not music that is sure to set your party on fire, only in Delhi but also in India. Opened at oops, ice I mean! Westgate Mall, Rajouri Garden, the ice Its dining floor, i.e. the third floor can lounge has lots of reasons for you to bring accommodate a standing gathering of 100 out the 'cool you' this summer. people and around 45 for seating. It also has Popularly a western concept, this ice a VIP lounge. What is most interesting bar is the first of its kind in India and in just about FREEZE is its exhaustive array of two months of its opening, already has menu on display. The lounge bar dishes out many takers. The ice lounge is spread over cold platters and grilled snacks, offering a perfect hot and cold -10 DEGREES TEMP GIVES A GLACIAL EXPERIENCE combination! Specialty chefs are here to serve global cuisines. You name a dish and they have it on menu! Pizza? You got it! Indian? You got it! Chinese? Mexican? Thai? You got it all here! This lounge also plays host to many family outings. The dad enjoys the hookah, the mother orders the speciality on menu and the kids, in addition to tapping their feet to some rocky numbers, can watch live matches, songs and movies on its big
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WANDERING GOURMAND SAPNA S
Boisterously Bunt
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It doesn’t form part of many menus is the various hotels / restaurants across India, but Bunt Food, a Mangalorean fare, is slowly making inroads into many a connoisseurs’ kitchen, thanks to the celebrity status attached to it!
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ave you ever wished, as you see Aishwarya Rai’s green eyes or Shilpa Shetty’ slim waist, to know what is it that they grew up eating... Ever wondered that was it food that somewhat contributed to their glowing skin and captivating beauty? Well, could be, after all, both of them come from Bunt community, whose cuisine, is now slowly gripping people outside Karnataka. A doctor by profession with a passion for cooking, I didn’t take much time to learn the basics of Mangalorean cuisine from my mother-in-law. Of India’s four southern states, Karnataka’s gastronomic marvels are the least known. While Tamil Nadu is famous for its distinct Chettinad cuisine, Kerala for its rich Moplah fare and Andhra Pradesh for its royal Hyderabadi repast, the scrumptious dishes of Karnataka have been languishing on the sidelines for several years now. Apart from masala dosa and the customary lemon rice, not many people are even aware of the state’s two distinctive cuisines, Bunt and Coorgi, indigenous to these warrior communities. Mangaloreans have a penchant for using coconut milk or simply grated coconut in almost all their food items. Born and brought up in Kerala, I found a lot of influence of
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The traditional Bunt food, though spicy (as the Bunts like to use whole spices), is light on the stomach and not at all oily. law, I learned a unique traditional cooking during one of my visits to a neighbouring village, when I witnessed an interesting cock fight. The fight and betting was common knowledge but what surprised me was the tradition of cooking a cock over fire after the fight and having it with rice. I tried the same cooking method on country chicken, and the result, was quite rewarding. Bunt food is now made available in various outlets and eateries in places in and around Mumbai, but the taste is not the same. Kori roti (rice flakes), kori gazi (chicken curry), kori sukka (chicken cooked in scraped coconut), pundit (rice dumplings), neeru dosa (rice thin pancakes) are few of the Bunt specialities that you may find outside the Mangalore city. Mahesh Lunch Home (Mangalorean food chain) has branches in Mumbai, Thane and Pune and is the perfect place to explore the Mangalorean cuisine. In Bengaluru, ‘Kudla’ restaurant serves good sea food preparations, the kana (lady fish) rawa fry, or masala fry are the must try dishes on their menu. Additionally, Coconut Grove in Bengaluru as well as in Chennai and Goa serves few Mangalorean specialities, especially sea food. While the food is good, sadly, there is a lot of difference in the making of kori gazi (chicken curry) whether it’s inside or outside the Mangalore city. Many of the above mentioned places do serve a kori gazi (typical traditional chicken curry) though it lacks the touch of traditional way of cooking, or ingredients and the flavour. A good Mangalorean restaurant outside Mangalore city do serve good Bunt food, but I have never come across a place where they maintain the aroma, and the perfect mix of spices of a traditional Bunt food. Nothing can come close to the tasty fish masala fry or a ghee rost of prawns when you have it anywhere within Mangalore city. (PHOTOS BY THE PARK, NEW DELHI)
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south Indian cuisine on Bunt cuisine in general, though the Thulu community (the Bunt and the Pujaris) have their own unique menu which they follow, traditionally. The easy and bulk availability of fish from both sea and river (Mangalore is a port city of Karnataka) gave the dish a prominent place in the Bunt cuisine and made it a favourite on the Mangalorean menu. Fish preparations range from fish curry to fish masala fry / rawa fry and a special baked mackerel preparation that I learned during one of the visits to a neighbouring village. Mangalorean food that I have eaten in several restaurants that specialise in coastal food is heavy. True, desi ghee figures rather predominently in its cuisine, but it leaves more of a fragrance than an oily feel. The traditional Bunt food is light on the stomach and not at all oily. The food is spicy, no doubt. But the Bunts generally like to use whole spices, which gives aroma to a dish but doesn’t overwhelm it with the flavours. Mangaloreans prefer to use whole spices, as they feel that they enhance the aroma of the curry. Long and short dry red chillies are used in proportion of 3:1 to add colour to the curry, especially the sea fish, while river fish is cooked in a coconut gravy with spices where long chillies with round ones in ratio of 1:3 is used. In any dish being prepared, each ingredient is first fried in a drop of coconut oil and then grinded along with coconut to turn it into a fine paste. Pathrode made out of colaccasia leaves are indeed a favourite again in the traditional Bunt menu. On the dessert front, Mangalorean sweets are not at all heavy on stomach. Rasayana is an all time item on a traditional menu and is made out of fresh melon or plantain mixed in coconut milk, along with beaten rice and jaggery. Up next, kheera made of semolina and halwas along with boondi laddu find their place in the traditional menu. Though my knowledge of the Bunt food is fairly good, thanks to my mother-in-
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BOOKS By Depi Chaudhry Published By: Collins Pp: 216, Price: Rs 695
Trekking Guide to the Western Himalayas he book is an extremely user friendly guide for the adventurous lot both professional and amateur. Not only is it very well written covering a gamut of off-beaten treks but also carries detailed information in the form of clearly marked maps, additional vital stats and tips on things that one needs to know while going on a trek. An exhaustive collection of alluring pictures coupled with 3D images will surely propel an adventurist to pick up his rucksack and head to the hills. Can truly be called a bible for trek lovers.
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JRD: As Air Indians Remember he book ‘JRD: As Air Indians Remember’ is a remarkable attempt by Capt Kohli to bring out an excellent collection of not only rare photographs and confidential letters (from Morarji Desai to Smt Indira Gandhi) but also some funny anecdotes and inspiring tales, by former Air Indians, in fond remembrance of JRD Tata. Weaving his own and his colleagues' rich experiences, Capt Kohli tells a compelling story that gives an insight into the character that was JRD Tata and his dream that was Air India. This book is a must read for all those who are interested in knowing how legends build legendary organisations. The book gives a detailed and interesting insight into the man that JRD
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Conceived and Compiled by M S Kohli Published by: Himalyan Books Pp: 144; Rs 695
Tata was and his struggles and achievements in establishing Air India. JRD Tata will go down in history for achieving the rare distinction of flying Air India high. Father of India’s civil aviation and founder of Air India, JRD Tata had a dream. And he made it come true through his all consuming passion, consummate skill and outstanding leadership. “I beseech you that when I am no more, and those of you who will still be there, always remember this, the airline must never, never be allowed to be anything else but the best. In doing so, we will not only ensure our own development, growth and progress, but also prosperity of our own people,” — that he was passionate about flying, is undisputable.
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Gir... Home to the Asiatic Lion v a s t U n n Gear up for the Ra 19th to 21stDecember 2010 (Sun-Tue) 28th to 30thDecember 2012 (Fri-Sun)
Spread over an area of 1424sq.kms, Gir with its dry deciduous forest is a luxuriantly rich ecosystem-endowed with floral and faunal plentitude. Thirty species of mammals, twenty species of reptiles, several species of insects and birds are found here. The forest is the only place in the world, outside Africa, where the lion can be seen in its natural habitat. Gir, the last refuge of the king of the jungle, is one of the largest and most important wildlife sanctuaries in India. The number of lions in Gir had dwindled to a mere 15 by the turn of the century, due to extensive trophy hunting. In the early 1900s the Nawab of Junagadh was advised by Lord Curzon to protect the remaining lions. The lion was declared to protected animal, although concerted conservation efforts started much later. In India the lion population is spread across the states of Rajasthan, Gujarat,
Other Attractions: Jeep Safaris- The best way to observe the big cats is, of course, in their natural surroundings, at dawn and dusk, when they are on the prowl. Wildlife viewing in the Gir is best done, by driving via jeep around the forest. Best times to visit Gir Forest: Wildlife enthusiasts can visit Gir Park through out the year, but the best period to visit the Gir Sanctuary is between the months of November and June. The forest also harbours a number of smaller birds and animals. Other predators are the panther and the hyena. The largest Indian Deer, Sambhar, Chital( Spotted Deer),Nilgai ( Blue Bull), Chinkara and the unique Chowsingha( four horned antelope) are found here along with the bear and the long tailed langur.
Haryana, Punjab, Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh. But Gir is not just about Lions,the second most commonly found predator in the Gir is Leopard. In Fact, Gir national park is also home to
one of the largest Leopard populations in any park in India, and especially in the hotter season they can sometimes be seen at night close to be lodges. Other animal residents of the Gir National Park are Sambar Deer, Chital Spotted Deer, Nilgai Antelope, Chowsingha Four Horned Antelope, Chinkara Gazelle, Wild Boar, Langur Monkey, Jackel and Hyena and numerous birds like Paradise Flycatcher, Bonneli's Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle, Woodpeakers Flamingo etc.
How to reach Gir:
Rann or Kutch Utsav is a three to four days of cultural extravaganza organized at different locations within Kutch in Gujarat. The fair is like a mirror to the traditional art forms and culture of India. Rann Utsav is organized by the Gujarat tourism department to celebrate the diversity and uniqueness of the Kutch district.
09th to 11thDecember 2011 (Fri-Sun) 15th to 17thDecember 2013 (Sat-Tue)
Gujarat, India, gets displayed in all its potential, beauty and vigour, with a large number of connoisseurs to comment on the colourful and vibrant lifestyles of the people in Kutch, situated in India, through the Kutch Festival. The Kutch Festival is celebrated in Kutch, near the days when Shivratri is celebrated in Gujarat, India. During the celebration of Kutch Desert Festival, colourfully attired dancers, music concerts, Sindhi Bhajan performances, Langa Desert Music and shops selling embroideries and jewellery are too, the hallmarks of the Kutch Desert Festival, being celebrated in Gujarat, India. Celebrations:
The people of Kutch are known for their hospitality and warmth of conduct. The three day fair has the basic motive of highlighting the cultural splendour of Gujarat. During the full moon night of the winters amid the awe-inspiring and contrasting landscape each year a three day festive extravaganza brimming with hospitality, vigour and traditional flavour of the area is hosted and known as the Kutch or Rann Mahotsav. Kutch is the most ecologically and ethnically diverse areas in the state of Gujarat. The people and geography of Kutch can be described by the hospitality, warmth and diversity of culture and communities found here. The spirit of Kutch people comes alive in this Festive environment of Kutch Rann Utsav. There is a perfect blend of enthusiasm, hospitality and spirit of celebration that glorifies the magnanimous aura of Rann Utsav. The three days of Utsav are packed with cultural Dances, Music, Craftsmanship, Carnival processions, Pageantry and in all an encapsulation of the true spirit and zeal of the inhabitants out here
The Rann Kutch Utsav held during the full moon time in winters every year is an unparalleled showcase of the ethnic widely different yet hugely diffused spectrum of Indian traditional art forms. People from far and near gather during the festivities of Rann Utsav to celebrate and salute the spirit and warmth that people of Kutch have inherited and protected. There are numerous cultural activities organized during Rann Utsav that engage all visitors. Semi parched Grasslands of the Banni hosts the most magnificent display of vernacular architecture as the exhibition platform for the varied range of arts and crafts of the region. The most enchanting experience in the Festival is the presentation of different art forms, dances, Music during the shade of Full moon and in an aura of chilling winters. Many tourists from outside the state of Gujarat enjoy various tour packages that involve sightseeing of the Kutch and adjoining areas during the fair. Time of Celebration:
By Air Nearest Airport is Rajkot 165kms via Junagadh. Daily Flights operate from Mumbai and New Delhi to Rajkot. By Bus Distance of 400 kms from Ahmedabad via Rajkot, Junagadh and Mendarda.Distance of 43kms from Veraval.Distance of 65kms from Junagadh via Mendarda.
For every visitor to the Festival there is a warm hug of natural beauty and traditional Cultural flux. A visit to Kutch Desert Festival, offers access to the interior and beautiful recesses of the region of Kutch, situated in Gujarat, India. A visit to Kutch Desert Festival, offers an insight into the region which comprises of expansive wastelands and eerie landscapes to the excitement of a large number of tourists who come to visit Gujarat, situated in India. Kutch is a large inundated section of land bearing similarities with the American Wild
For further details log2010 on to www.gujarattourism.com orMarch www.girnationalpark.com World - March 2010 - Voyager’s World 15 18 Voyager’s
How to Reach: By Air For traveling to Kutch by air, you will have to take a flight to Bhuj, the administrative city of Kutch. There are a number of flights connecting Bhuj with the other major cities of India. There are also daily flights to important cities like Mumbai.
By Rail One can travel by rail to Junagadh from Ahmedabad or Rajkot and then take a 65km road trip on bus or taxi to Susan Gir. Best Season to visit One can visit the park from October to June and the best recommended time is from December to April.
The Rann Utsav is held every year in the month of December. The fair is generally organized on the full moon night of the month. In 2009 the fair will be observed from 2nd to 4th Dec’09.
By Train West. Kutch, situated in Gujarat, India, can also be equated with a Desert in some terrains.
You can board the Kutch Express from Mumbai, via Ahmedabad and up to Gandhinagar. From there, you can reach your destination by road.
Though Kutch, situated in Gujarat, India, is a land of few people but it is also known among some as a land of Palaces, Forts, colourful dressage, bird rich marshes along with beautiful handicrafts which are in a dire need of being marketed and propagated to the surrounding world to maintain the throng of tourists to the Rann of Kutch, situated in Gujarat, India. Kutch, situated in
By Road To explore Kutch at its best, it is the beat to travel by road. The wild and raw beauty of the region is simply amazing. There are a number of buses available from Ahmedabad to this place. It is connected to major cities
March 2010 - Voyager’s World 15
Gir... Home to the Asiatic Lion v a s t U n n Gear up for the Ra 19th to 21stDecember 2010 (Sun-Tue) 28th to 30thDecember 2012 (Fri-Sun)
Spread over an area of 1424sq.kms, Gir with its dry deciduous forest is a luxuriantly rich ecosystem-endowed with floral and faunal plentitude. Thirty species of mammals, twenty species of reptiles, several species of insects and birds are found here. The forest is the only place in the world, outside Africa, where the lion can be seen in its natural habitat. Gir, the last refuge of the king of the jungle, is one of the largest and most important wildlife sanctuaries in India. The number of lions in Gir had dwindled to a mere 15 by the turn of the century, due to extensive trophy hunting. In the early 1900s the Nawab of Junagadh was advised by Lord Curzon to protect the remaining lions. The lion was declared to protected animal, although concerted conservation efforts started much later. In India the lion population is spread across the states of Rajasthan, Gujarat,
Other Attractions: Jeep Safaris- The best way to observe the big cats is, of course, in their natural surroundings, at dawn and dusk, when they are on the prowl. Wildlife viewing in the Gir is best done, by driving via jeep around the forest. Best times to visit Gir Forest: Wildlife enthusiasts can visit Gir Park through out the year, but the best period to visit the Gir Sanctuary is between the months of November and June. The forest also harbours a number of smaller birds and animals. Other predators are the panther and the hyena. The largest Indian Deer, Sambhar, Chital( Spotted Deer),Nilgai ( Blue Bull), Chinkara and the unique Chowsingha( four horned antelope) are found here along with the bear and the long tailed langur.
Haryana, Punjab, Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh. But Gir is not just about Lions,the second most commonly found predator in the Gir is Leopard. In Fact, Gir national park is also home to
one of the largest Leopard populations in any park in India, and especially in the hotter season they can sometimes be seen at night close to be lodges. Other animal residents of the Gir National Park are Sambar Deer, Chital Spotted Deer, Nilgai Antelope, Chowsingha Four Horned Antelope, Chinkara Gazelle, Wild Boar, Langur Monkey, Jackel and Hyena and numerous birds like Paradise Flycatcher, Bonneli's Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle, Woodpeakers Flamingo etc.
How to reach Gir:
Rann or Kutch Utsav is a three to four days of cultural extravaganza organized at different locations within Kutch in Gujarat. The fair is like a mirror to the traditional art forms and culture of India. Rann Utsav is organized by the Gujarat tourism department to celebrate the diversity and uniqueness of the Kutch district.
09th to 11thDecember 2011 (Fri-Sun) 15th to 17thDecember 2013 (Sat-Tue)
Gujarat, India, gets displayed in all its potential, beauty and vigour, with a large number of connoisseurs to comment on the colourful and vibrant lifestyles of the people in Kutch, situated in India, through the Kutch Festival. The Kutch Festival is celebrated in Kutch, near the days when Shivratri is celebrated in Gujarat, India. During the celebration of Kutch Desert Festival, colourfully attired dancers, music concerts, Sindhi Bhajan performances, Langa Desert Music and shops selling embroideries and jewellery are too, the hallmarks of the Kutch Desert Festival, being celebrated in Gujarat, India. Celebrations:
The people of Kutch are known for their hospitality and warmth of conduct. The three day fair has the basic motive of highlighting the cultural splendour of Gujarat. During the full moon night of the winters amid the awe-inspiring and contrasting landscape each year a three day festive extravaganza brimming with hospitality, vigour and traditional flavour of the area is hosted and known as the Kutch or Rann Mahotsav. Kutch is the most ecologically and ethnically diverse areas in the state of Gujarat. The people and geography of Kutch can be described by the hospitality, warmth and diversity of culture and communities found here. The spirit of Kutch people comes alive in this Festive environment of Kutch Rann Utsav. There is a perfect blend of enthusiasm, hospitality and spirit of celebration that glorifies the magnanimous aura of Rann Utsav. The three days of Utsav are packed with cultural Dances, Music, Craftsmanship, Carnival processions, Pageantry and in all an encapsulation of the true spirit and zeal of the inhabitants out here
The Rann Kutch Utsav held during the full moon time in winters every year is an unparalleled showcase of the ethnic widely different yet hugely diffused spectrum of Indian traditional art forms. People from far and near gather during the festivities of Rann Utsav to celebrate and salute the spirit and warmth that people of Kutch have inherited and protected. There are numerous cultural activities organized during Rann Utsav that engage all visitors. Semi parched Grasslands of the Banni hosts the most magnificent display of vernacular architecture as the exhibition platform for the varied range of arts and crafts of the region. The most enchanting experience in the Festival is the presentation of different art forms, dances, Music during the shade of Full moon and in an aura of chilling winters. Many tourists from outside the state of Gujarat enjoy various tour packages that involve sightseeing of the Kutch and adjoining areas during the fair. Time of Celebration:
By Air Nearest Airport is Rajkot 165kms via Junagadh. Daily Flights operate from Mumbai and New Delhi to Rajkot. By Bus Distance of 400 kms from Ahmedabad via Rajkot, Junagadh and Mendarda.Distance of 43kms from Veraval.Distance of 65kms from Junagadh via Mendarda.
For every visitor to the Festival there is a warm hug of natural beauty and traditional Cultural flux. A visit to Kutch Desert Festival, offers access to the interior and beautiful recesses of the region of Kutch, situated in Gujarat, India. A visit to Kutch Desert Festival, offers an insight into the region which comprises of expansive wastelands and eerie landscapes to the excitement of a large number of tourists who come to visit Gujarat, situated in India. Kutch is a large inundated section of land bearing similarities with the American Wild
For further details log2010 on to www.gujarattourism.com orMarch www.girnationalpark.com World - March 2010 - Voyager’s World 15 18 Voyager’s
How to Reach: By Air For traveling to Kutch by air, you will have to take a flight to Bhuj, the administrative city of Kutch. There are a number of flights connecting Bhuj with the other major cities of India. There are also daily flights to important cities like Mumbai.
By Rail One can travel by rail to Junagadh from Ahmedabad or Rajkot and then take a 65km road trip on bus or taxi to Susan Gir. Best Season to visit One can visit the park from October to June and the best recommended time is from December to April.
The Rann Utsav is held every year in the month of December. The fair is generally organized on the full moon night of the month. In 2009 the fair will be observed from 2nd to 4th Dec’09.
By Train West. Kutch, situated in Gujarat, India, can also be equated with a Desert in some terrains.
You can board the Kutch Express from Mumbai, via Ahmedabad and up to Gandhinagar. From there, you can reach your destination by road.
Though Kutch, situated in Gujarat, India, is a land of few people but it is also known among some as a land of Palaces, Forts, colourful dressage, bird rich marshes along with beautiful handicrafts which are in a dire need of being marketed and propagated to the surrounding world to maintain the throng of tourists to the Rann of Kutch, situated in Gujarat, India. Kutch, situated in
By Road To explore Kutch at its best, it is the beat to travel by road. The wild and raw beauty of the region is simply amazing. There are a number of buses available from Ahmedabad to this place. It is connected to major cities
March 2010 - Voyager’s World 15
Vibrant Gujarat's Best Kept Beach secrets comes to life Pristine, unspoilt and secluded
archaeological ruins excavated here and religious manuscripts correspond with Beyt Dwarka as the original abode of Lord Krishna. In order to get there from Dwarka, one might need to first get to Okha port jetty (32 km), by either rail or road and then take a ferry or small boat (Rs.5/-), 5km away. Shri Krishna Temple: From here an enormous 500 year old temple is a 15 minute walk. Built by Shri Vallabhacharya, it enshrines an idol believed to be made by Rukmini. There is a story where Lord Krishna's friend Sudama presented him with rice and so the tradition is continued by the visitors who present the Brahmins here with donations of rice. There are other smaller temples in the same vicinity of Lord Shiva, Lord Hanuman, Devi and Lord Vishnu. Beyt Dwarka is also associated with the legend where Lord Vishnu slew the demon Shankhasura. Hanuman Temple: The magnificent Dandiwala Hanuman Temple is situated about 5 km east of the Beyt Dwarka's main temple. It also has facilities of accommodation for visitors who might want to perform special worships. One of the rare features of this temple is the idol of Hanuman's son Makardwaja. It is said that the celibate Lord Hanuman impregnated a fish with a drop of his perspiration, which conceived and gave birth to a son as strong as Lord Hanuman. Legend also says that during the famous war of Lanka, Ravana kidnapped and kept both Lord Ram and Laxman in Patal (the world underneath the earth). Hanuman chose this place to enter Patal and had to fight Makardhwaja, who was guarding it. This is where they met and recognized each other as father and son. Hanuman Jayanti evokes a large celebration here. Also, on Dashera, the idol of Shri Krishna is adorned like Shri Ram, who is carried here for a special visit on a palkhi (palaquin).
A visit to Gujarat is never complete without a visit to what dawns as India's biggest coastline. A pristine Coastline of over 1600 kilometres strewn in some of most fascinating heritage monuments and temples will leave any discerning traveller spellbound. Beaches in Gujarat are probably India's best kept secrets, but they too have their stature as beautiful and peaceful beaches acting as an escape route to the peace and quietude of nature. Beaches in Gujarat, located in Gujarat, India, are of the order of Daman Beach, Porbander Beach, Gopnath Beach and Umergaon Beach, which hold a pride of place in the pantheon of tourist destinations in Gujarat, located in India. Gujarat Beaches are very quiet as a tourist can hear being the sounds of the chirping of birds. One of the beaches, the Gopnath Beach, was the summer house of Maharaja Krishna Kumar Singhji and the beach is known for high limestone cliffs and colourful birdlife. Beaches in Gujarat Mandvi - The first thing most people think of when they visit Mandvi is visiting the seashore. Mandvi Beach is the closest to the town center, across the bridge to the east side of the river, then down the road past a place called Salaya, accessed from just near the Kashi-Vishvanath Temple (sometimes the beach is called Kashi-Vishvanath Beach.) Wind Farm Beach is 7 km west of town, named for the windmills that line it to generate electricity for the area. You can get fresh coconuts and other snacks, swim in very pleasant water, and enjoy a nice view of the coastline. The Maharao's private beach, behind Vijay Vilas Palace, is 8 km from t o w n , and requires a small fee (the other beaches are free and open to the public). More secluded than the others, the Vijay Vilas Beach has nice white sand, lovely places to swim and accommodation available in air-conditioned tents along the shore.
roaring silence of nature. It also offers some more active patches where you can enjoy a camel ride and light snacks. Beyt Dwarka, also known as Beyt Shankhodhar, is a small island and was the main port in the region before the development of Okha. It offers opportunities to spot dolphins, marine excursions, camping and picnicking. Most of the
Ahmedpur Mandvi - On a 6 km stretch of clear Arabian waters kissing the beach, Ahmedpur Mandvi is one of Gujarat's lesser-known gems and finest pieces of coastline. Adjacent to the island of Diu, which lies just across a creek, it continues as Ghogla Beach into the adjoining part of mainland Diu.
Kachoriyu: This is a temple of Shri Rama. It carries sculptures of Garuda (eagle), Shankha (conch shell), Chakra (sharp circular weapon), along with the idol of Lord Hanuman at the entrance. The pond situated near the temple is called Kachoriyu Talav. Haji Kirmani Pir: Towards the eastern seashore of Beyt Dwarka, one can visit the shrine of Haji Kirmani Pir, who is considered one of the important Sufi saints, hailing from Kirman, Iran. People from many religious backgrounds faithfully visit here. Gurudwara: Beyt is believed to be the birthplace of Panjpyare's Sikh saint Shri Hukamchandji. Hence many Sikhs visit this Gurudwara located in the Budhiya area.
From lazing on a hammock with a book to bathing in its pristine waters, this beach also offers many water sport adventures and opportunities for dolphin sightings. Situated where Gujarat and Diu come together, Ahmedpur Mandvi provides a rich blend of cultures from Saurashtra and the Portuguese influence from Diu, in several lively fishing hamlets. Chorwad Beach - Located 37 kms from Somnath, this beach was once home to the royal palace of the Nawab of Junagadh. Today it remains in a ruined state. The beach is unsafe for swimming, but it is relatively clean, ideal for relaxing and enjoying the ocean breeze. It does not offer any accommodation facilities but serves as an ideal excursion from Somnath. Beaches - The closest beach is Balachari, 26 km from the city. Now a locally popular resort with a golf course, the beach has a lesser known history of human compassion. Jam Digvijaysinhji's son writes that his father “was India's delegate to the Imperial War Conference. In 1942 a Polish ship escaped from the German invasion with 1200 children and 20 women on board. The Government of Bombay would not let them land but only gave them fuel, food and water. When they reached our coast, my father sailed out from Bedi port to take off the children, put them in tents and in six months he had built a Polish camp at Balachari, at a personal cost of 10 lakhs, and maintained the camp until the end of the war.” This act surely adds warmth to the Indo-Polish relations to this day. There also are other beaches further away, and this area has much unspoiled coastline which is worth exploring, with permission from Conservator of Forests Office, Tel: 0288 2679357, Nagnath Gate, Van Sankul, Ganjiwada, Jamnagar, and with an awareness that after a visit to unspoiled areas we should be able to say that we may visit the area again, still unspoiled.
Somnath - Not recommended for swimming, but a wonderful escape into the
March 2010 - Voyager’s World 15
March 2010 - Voyager’s World 15
Vibrant Gujarat's Best Kept Beach secrets comes to life Pristine, unspoilt and secluded
archaeological ruins excavated here and religious manuscripts correspond with Beyt Dwarka as the original abode of Lord Krishna. In order to get there from Dwarka, one might need to first get to Okha port jetty (32 km), by either rail or road and then take a ferry or small boat (Rs.5/-), 5km away. Shri Krishna Temple: From here an enormous 500 year old temple is a 15 minute walk. Built by Shri Vallabhacharya, it enshrines an idol believed to be made by Rukmini. There is a story where Lord Krishna's friend Sudama presented him with rice and so the tradition is continued by the visitors who present the Brahmins here with donations of rice. There are other smaller temples in the same vicinity of Lord Shiva, Lord Hanuman, Devi and Lord Vishnu. Beyt Dwarka is also associated with the legend where Lord Vishnu slew the demon Shankhasura. Hanuman Temple: The magnificent Dandiwala Hanuman Temple is situated about 5 km east of the Beyt Dwarka's main temple. It also has facilities of accommodation for visitors who might want to perform special worships. One of the rare features of this temple is the idol of Hanuman's son Makardwaja. It is said that the celibate Lord Hanuman impregnated a fish with a drop of his perspiration, which conceived and gave birth to a son as strong as Lord Hanuman. Legend also says that during the famous war of Lanka, Ravana kidnapped and kept both Lord Ram and Laxman in Patal (the world underneath the earth). Hanuman chose this place to enter Patal and had to fight Makardhwaja, who was guarding it. This is where they met and recognized each other as father and son. Hanuman Jayanti evokes a large celebration here. Also, on Dashera, the idol of Shri Krishna is adorned like Shri Ram, who is carried here for a special visit on a palkhi (palaquin).
A visit to Gujarat is never complete without a visit to what dawns as India's biggest coastline. A pristine Coastline of over 1600 kilometres strewn in some of most fascinating heritage monuments and temples will leave any discerning traveller spellbound. Beaches in Gujarat are probably India's best kept secrets, but they too have their stature as beautiful and peaceful beaches acting as an escape route to the peace and quietude of nature. Beaches in Gujarat, located in Gujarat, India, are of the order of Daman Beach, Porbander Beach, Gopnath Beach and Umergaon Beach, which hold a pride of place in the pantheon of tourist destinations in Gujarat, located in India. Gujarat Beaches are very quiet as a tourist can hear being the sounds of the chirping of birds. One of the beaches, the Gopnath Beach, was the summer house of Maharaja Krishna Kumar Singhji and the beach is known for high limestone cliffs and colourful birdlife. Beaches in Gujarat Mandvi - The first thing most people think of when they visit Mandvi is visiting the seashore. Mandvi Beach is the closest to the town center, across the bridge to the east side of the river, then down the road past a place called Salaya, accessed from just near the Kashi-Vishvanath Temple (sometimes the beach is called Kashi-Vishvanath Beach.) Wind Farm Beach is 7 km west of town, named for the windmills that line it to generate electricity for the area. You can get fresh coconuts and other snacks, swim in very pleasant water, and enjoy a nice view of the coastline. The Maharao's private beach, behind Vijay Vilas Palace, is 8 km from t o w n , and requires a small fee (the other beaches are free and open to the public). More secluded than the others, the Vijay Vilas Beach has nice white sand, lovely places to swim and accommodation available in air-conditioned tents along the shore.
roaring silence of nature. It also offers some more active patches where you can enjoy a camel ride and light snacks. Beyt Dwarka, also known as Beyt Shankhodhar, is a small island and was the main port in the region before the development of Okha. It offers opportunities to spot dolphins, marine excursions, camping and picnicking. Most of the
Ahmedpur Mandvi - On a 6 km stretch of clear Arabian waters kissing the beach, Ahmedpur Mandvi is one of Gujarat's lesser-known gems and finest pieces of coastline. Adjacent to the island of Diu, which lies just across a creek, it continues as Ghogla Beach into the adjoining part of mainland Diu.
Kachoriyu: This is a temple of Shri Rama. It carries sculptures of Garuda (eagle), Shankha (conch shell), Chakra (sharp circular weapon), along with the idol of Lord Hanuman at the entrance. The pond situated near the temple is called Kachoriyu Talav. Haji Kirmani Pir: Towards the eastern seashore of Beyt Dwarka, one can visit the shrine of Haji Kirmani Pir, who is considered one of the important Sufi saints, hailing from Kirman, Iran. People from many religious backgrounds faithfully visit here. Gurudwara: Beyt is believed to be the birthplace of Panjpyare's Sikh saint Shri Hukamchandji. Hence many Sikhs visit this Gurudwara located in the Budhiya area.
From lazing on a hammock with a book to bathing in its pristine waters, this beach also offers many water sport adventures and opportunities for dolphin sightings. Situated where Gujarat and Diu come together, Ahmedpur Mandvi provides a rich blend of cultures from Saurashtra and the Portuguese influence from Diu, in several lively fishing hamlets. Chorwad Beach - Located 37 kms from Somnath, this beach was once home to the royal palace of the Nawab of Junagadh. Today it remains in a ruined state. The beach is unsafe for swimming, but it is relatively clean, ideal for relaxing and enjoying the ocean breeze. It does not offer any accommodation facilities but serves as an ideal excursion from Somnath. Beaches - The closest beach is Balachari, 26 km from the city. Now a locally popular resort with a golf course, the beach has a lesser known history of human compassion. Jam Digvijaysinhji's son writes that his father “was India's delegate to the Imperial War Conference. In 1942 a Polish ship escaped from the German invasion with 1200 children and 20 women on board. The Government of Bombay would not let them land but only gave them fuel, food and water. When they reached our coast, my father sailed out from Bedi port to take off the children, put them in tents and in six months he had built a Polish camp at Balachari, at a personal cost of 10 lakhs, and maintained the camp until the end of the war.” This act surely adds warmth to the Indo-Polish relations to this day. There also are other beaches further away, and this area has much unspoiled coastline which is worth exploring, with permission from Conservator of Forests Office, Tel: 0288 2679357, Nagnath Gate, Van Sankul, Ganjiwada, Jamnagar, and with an awareness that after a visit to unspoiled areas we should be able to say that we may visit the area again, still unspoiled.
Somnath - Not recommended for swimming, but a wonderful escape into the
March 2010 - Voyager’s World 15
March 2010 - Voyager’s World 15
On the Move Layout:On the Move Layout.qxd
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ON THE MOVE
STEPHEN TAN
”
CHIEF EXECUTIVE Singapore Exhibition Services
A BUSINESS TOUR OR IP? TR RE SU PLEA lhi Business. We came to De tel Ho and od Fo te to promo a 0), 201 A (FH 0 201 a Asi food and hospitality trade was event. My visit to Delhi with an aim to get more d participants from the foo in ry ust ind y alit pit hos and India to be a part of this show.
WHY CHANGI…? The airport is completely hasslefree. From lounges to napping areas, shopping malls to hotel and pool amenities, the airport excels itself with innovative activities like all-inclusive dining and entertainment options.
YOUR TRAVELLING ESSENTIALS INCLUDE…? My laptop and mobile.
ONE AIRPORT EXPERIENCE THAT YOU WILL NEVER FORGET…? When first in Paris I did not know that there were two airports; and I took a cab to the wrong airport when trying to leave Paris. The two airports (Charles de Gaulle and Orly) are miles apart and a good 35 minutes apart by a cab-ride of 30 Euros. This then ignorance of mine made me miss my flight home to Singapore and I had to stay for another night at one of the airport hotels.
MAY 2010 TRAVELX
YOUR FAVOURITE AIRPORT IS…? . Changi Airport, Singapore
YOU PREFER FLYING BUSINESS OR ECONOMY? Usually Business. PHOTO BY H C TIWARI
YOUR RECENT TRIP WAS…? My recent trip was from Singapore to Delhi.
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