Explore: Real. Wild, Wonderful West Virginia by New South Media

Explore OUTDOOR ADVENTURES | WINTER ESCAPES | DESTINATION DINING | MUSIC IN THE MOUNTAINS

The Mountain State

TAKING THE SCENIC ROUTE West Virginia country roads take you from one beautiful vista to another

ROOM WITH A VIEW

WILD, WONDERFUL

WEST VIRGINIA

Barn lofts and fire towers, unique places to spend the night

FIND YOUR PARK Celebrate a century of National Parks at West Virginia’s national lands

TH E B EST VA CAT I O N Y O U ’ L L E V E R HAVE .

New River Gorge, WV

STAYONTHEGORGE.COM 888.406.0922

ADVENTURE IS A WAY OF LIFE. Your comfort zone has no boundaries. So you take risks and seek challenges. You discover who you really are. And along the way, you discover what it means to be a Mountaineer.

West Virginia has over 4,000 cave systems. The WVU Grotto Club allows students to go into places no other human has stepped foot. Photo by WVU student Ryan Mower

wvu.edu

Real. LETTER FROM THE COMMISSIONER

My Real Wild, Wonderful West Virginia We’re the northernmost southern state and the southernmost northern state. We were born out of the Civil War and have seen our share of struggles—but we always come back stronger and with more resolve. We lay claim to the NBA logo.

We are the birthplace of the first American woman to win the All Around Gold Medal in women’s gymnastics in the Olympic games. We were the first to fly faster than the speed of sound. We have an astronaut—and the original Rocket Boy.

Gilligan lived here and Barney Fife was born here. John Denver wrote a song about us and country superstar Brad Paisley learned to play guitar here. We have more trees than we do people and we are called the Mountain State for a reason. We are down-to-earth and prefer things that are real. We grew up eating farm-totable and we make exquisite things with our hands. We choose to get married in family churches, barns, and homes—where our families do the decorating and make the wedding cakes. We spend one day every year jumping 876 feet off the New River Gorge Bridge—the second highest steel arch bridge in the United States—just for fun. We are proud. Appalachia is our home and we know how to pronounce it. We choose these magnificent hills and plunging valleys because within these mountains is something you can’t duplicate or imitate. My West Virginia is real— Wild and Wonderful.

AMY SHULER GOODWIN

Commissioner

2 explore • 2016

WILD, WONDERFUL WEST VIRGINIA

Sincerely,

DISCOVERY Download our free app and explore the best of Wild, Wonderful West Virginia.

» Discover the best

family fun, adventure, relaxation, and more near you.

» Uncover insider local

YOU’LL FIND IT HERE. Download at GoToWV.com/app

tips as you travel.

» Earn collectible WV badges as you try new things.

WELCOME TO WEST VIRGINIA! From highways to

backways, our country roads will take you to some of the most scenic places in the Appalachian Mountains. West Virginia is called “Almost Heaven” for good reason. Located within 500 miles of more than half of the U.S. population, it is surprisingly easy to travel to the Mountain State, yet once you cross our borders, you’ll feel worlds away. West Virginia is a place where dichotomies meet. It is the northernmost southern state—and the southernmost northern state. It’s a place where life slows down, where laid-back escapes are at every bend in the road. It is also an adrenaline junkie’s dream destination where heart-pumping outdoor recreation abounds. We invite you to climb our mountains, kayak our rivers, bike our scenic trails, travel back in time aboard a steam engine, and camp under the stars. Get your adrenaline pumping as you race over whitewater or zip through towering trees. Enjoy fresh local food and our unrivaled artisan craftsmanship. Bring our heritage to your home with products that impart a sense of place. With four distinct seasons, the landscape is an ever-changing masterpiece. In the winter, our ski resorts bustle with activities, and in the spring, the rivers and falls gush with newly melted snow. By the time summer rolls around, everyone is cooling off at the state’s lakes and mountains. And in the fall, the state dresses in its finest finery as leaf peepers take to scenic back roads. Once you’ve visited West Virginia in any season, you’ll understand why it is a place where people return.

Real. Wild, Wonderful. PUBLISHED BY

New South Media, Inc.

709 Beechurst Avenue, Suite 14A Morgantown, WV 26505 304.413.0104 • wvliving.com

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EXPLORE is published by New South Media, Inc. Copyright: New South Media, Inc. Reproduction in part or whole is strictly prohibited without the express written permission of the publisher. © NEW SOUTH MEDIA, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

4 explore • 2016

Explore Table of Contents

20 Pedal Power

Whether you’re looking for adrenaline pumping adventure or a leisurely ride, bicyclists always find something to get their wheels turning in West Virginia.

38 Destination Dining Some of the state’s best restaurants are tucked away in tiny places, but the food is always worth the trip.

70 Palace of Gold

Hidden in West Virginia’s hills is one of the state’s most magnificent treasures—America’s answer to the Taj Mahal.

92 Travel to Helvetia

Visit the charming community of Helvetia for a taste of Switzerland and a look at some old Swiss traditions that are alive and well.

102 Taking the Scenic Route

We’ve collected four road trips to put you on the road to discovering the state’s scenic beauty.

139 Location, Location, Location

JESSE THORNTON

If tying the knot is in your future, look no further for a one-of-akind venue to make your special day even more special.

A sunset over the rail bridge in Thurmond, West Virginia, viewed from the rocky banks of the New River.

154 Heavy with History Born from the embers of the American Civil War, West Virginia is filled with important historic sites that connect visitors with the past.

Explore Table of Contents

87 Real. Winter Escape With elevations reaching more than 4,000 feet, majestic sloping terrain, and an abundance of snow, winter is king in West Virginia.

101 Real. Discovery

Travel the state’s twisting, turning byways and find out what “Take Me Home, Country Roads” is all about.

117 Real. Mountain Beauty

Pristine forests and cool, clear streams—your eyes won’t believe the rugged beauty of West Virginia’s parks.

137 Real. Bliss

When it’s time to reconnect with the one you love most, there’s no better getaway than the mountains.

2 4

Letter from the Commissioner Editor’s Letter

Getting Here

State Parks at a Glance

Mountain State Musts

11 Real. Fun

Whether you fish, hunt, bike, hike, climb, or paddle, the Mountain State is an outdoors enthusiast’s paradise.

33 Real. Mountain Flavor

West Virginia chefs, brew masters, distillers, and winemakers draw inspiration from a huge mixing bowl of cultural influence.

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47 Real. Luck

Go ahead and try your luck— no matter how the cards are dealt, gaming in West Virginia won’t leave you empty-handed.

147 Real. Wonder

West Virginia is bursting with attractions to please everyone, young and old.

55 Real. Artistry

Surrounded with such natural beauty and deep folk traditions, West Virginia provides artists of all kinds with inspiration.

69 Real. Togetherness

Some of the best memories are often made in groups. We’ve collected the best places for your tour group.

79 Real. Adventure

Adrenaline junkies are never satisfied, but West Virginia has enough white-knuckle excitement to keep them busy for a while.

Explore OU DOOR ADVENTU ES | W NTER ESCA ES | D ST NAT ON

IN NG | MU IC N T E MO NTA NS

The Mountain State

TAK NG THE SCEN C ROUTE

We t V rg n a coun ry oads ake ou f om o e beau fu vi ta o no her

On the Cover

Blueberry leaves at WEST VIRGINIA The Nature Conservancy’s Bear Rocks Preserve in Dolly Sods reach peak color in the fall. Photo by ©Kent Mason, wvphotographs.com ROOM W TH A VIEW

WILD, WONDERFUL

B rn of s and fi e owe s ni ue pl ces o spe d he n ght

FIND YOUR PARK

Ce eb ate a ce tu y of Na io al Pa ks a We t V rg n a s na i nal an s

Back Cover: Blackwater Falls State Park

Getting Here

INTERSTATES

West Virginia is easily accessible by six major interstates: I-64, I-79, I-77, I-70, I-68, and I-81. The state’s only toll road is a southern portion of I-77. Welcome Centers are located along these points of entry.

You can reach West Virginia’s many wonders easily by interstate, air, or train. Wheeling WC 70 250

PA WC

Morgantown

Parkersburg

Charleston

119

64 WC

White Sulphur Springs

Lewisburg

77 52 460 Bluefield

RAIL SERVICE

340 Harpers Ferry

WC Staffed Welcome Center

Turnpike Service Plaza

Beckley

Williamson

Martinsburg

33 219

79 64

220

Huntington

Clarksburg Bridgeport

Prefer traveling by train? Amtrak’s MARC Rail commuter system runs from Washington, D.C., to Harpers Ferry and Martinsburg. Three days a week, the Amtrak Cardinal, which runs between Chicago and Washington, D.C., stops in Huntington, Charleston, Montgomery, Thurmond, Beckley, Hinton, and White Sulphur Springs. For more information, visit amtrak.com.

Lexington, VA

Rest Stop Area

AIRPORTS

Of the state’s 35 public airports, these eight offer commercial airline service.

»»Yeager Airport Charleston »»North Central West

Virginia Airport Clarksburg

»»Tri-State Airport Huntington »»Mercer County Airport Bluefield »»Morgantown Municipal Airport Morgantown

»»Raleigh County Memorial Airport Beckley

»»Greenbrier Valley

Airport Lewisburg

»»Mid-Ohio Valley Regional Airport Parkersburg

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TRAILS WMA

STATE FORESTS

STATE PARKS

LODGE/RESORT PARKS

Blackwater Falls Cacapon Resort Canaan Valley Resort* Chief Logan Lodge & Conference Center Hawks Nest North Bend Pipestem Resort Stonewall Resort Twin Falls Resort Tygart Lake Audra Babcock Beartown Beech Fork Berkeley Springs Blennerhassett Island Historical Bluestone Camp Creek Carnifex Ferry Battlefield Cass Scenic Railroad Cathedral Cedar Creek Chief Logan Droop Mountain Battlefield Fairfax Stone Holly River Little Beaver Lost River Moncove Lake Pinnacle Rock Prickett’s Fort Tomlinson Run Tu-Endie-Wei Valley Falls Watoga Watters Smith Memorial Cabwaylingo Calvin Price Camp Creek Coopers Rock Greenbrier Kanawha Kumbrabow Seneca Panther Greenbrier River Trail North Bend Rail Trail

855–6100

Logan

685

658–5212 Ansted 370 643–2931 Cairo 2,492 466–1800 Pipestem 4,050 269–7400 Roanoke 1,736 294–4000 Mullens 3,776 265–6144 Grafton 2,134 457–1162 Buckhannon 355 438–3004 Clifftop 4,127 653–4254 Hillsboro 110 528–5794 Barboursville 3,860 258–2711 Berkeley Springs 7 420–4800

Parkersburg

466–2805 425–9481 872–0825 456–4300 735–3771 462–8517 792–7125 653–4254 259–5216 493–6353 763–2494 897–5372 772–3450 248–8565 363–3030 564–3651 675–0869 367–2719 799–4087 745–3081 385–4255 799–4087 425–9481 594–1561 536–1944 558–3500 335–2219 799–6213

Hinton Camp Creek Summersville Cass Aurora Glenville Logan Hillsboro

938–2252

4 4 Nb G

31 29 143 191 47 20

4 4 4 4 4 4

77 82 46 50 40 67 52

275

511

2,154 500 165 940 132 2,588 3,303 287 4 Hacker Valley 8,294 Beaver 562 Mathias 3,712 Gap Mills 896 Bramwell 374 Fairmont 188 New Manchester 1,396 Point Pleasant 4 Fairmont 1,145 Marlinton 10,100 Lost Creek 532 Dunlow 8,125 Marlinton 9,034 Camp Creek 5,365 Bruceton Mills 12,713 Caldwell 5,130 Charleston 9,052 Huttonsville 9,431 Dunmore 11,684 Panther

9 26 10 14 11

10,975

N. Caldwell to 77 miles Slab Town Happy Valley to 72 miles 643–2931 Wolf Summit 799–7416

4 4 4 4 4 4

Nb Nb 4 4 4 Nb Nb Nb

14 6

123 53

10 26

250 4 4 305 4 4 4 16 4 4 4 4 2,650 4 4 4 Nb 4 1,750 4 4 4 4 4 P 18 4 4 4 4 4 Nb P 720 4 4 4 Nb P

100

6 8

Nb P 2,040 4 4 4 Nb Nb Nb Nb Nb 4

88 Se 46

4 4

Nb P Nb WS

25 20 46 13 10 6

G P G,P G G,P 4

65 26

I6 4 Nb 4 Nb Nb 4 Nb SC M4 Nb 4 Nb SC J6

4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4

P P P

Nb Nb WS

8 7

18 144 15 30

Nb P Nb P

Nb Nb Nb P Nb P

Map Grid Location

Boat Rentals Fishing Hiking Trails Horseback Riding Riding Stables On-site Museums/Exhibits Historical Interest Gift Shops Hunting Miscellaneous

Acreage 259–5216 Davis 2,358 39 54 65 4 4 Nb G 258–1022 Berkeley Springs 6,115 31 48 4 4 4 L 866–4121 Davis 6,120 23 160 34 4 4 4 G,P

Lakes (acres)

Swimming

Restaurants Conference Facilities Golf Courses

Campsites

Lodge/Hotel Rooms

Cabins/Cottages

West Virginia State Parks at a Glance

4 Nb SR C10

Nb 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4

4 4 4 Nb Nb 4 4 Nb 4 4 4

E9 E5 E11 G6 D11 H5 H6 F10 G10 B9 M4

4 4 4

Nb Nb Nb SR Nb Nb

E11 E11 E9 H8 I5 F7 C10 G9 I6 G7 4 4 I,D E11 4 4 4 K7 4 I,D 4 4 4 4 Nb Nb G11 4 4 4 E12 4 4 I,D 4 H5 4 4 4 4 4 Nb 4 4 4 I,D 4 4 Nb YT F1 Nb B7 4 4 4 Nb H5 4 4 4 H9 4 4 4 4 4 4 Nb Nb 4 G6 4 4 4 Nb B10 4 4 4 4 4 H9 4 4 4 E11 4 4 I,O 4 4 Nb 4 4 I4 4 4 4 Nb Nb 4 I,D Nb 4 4 4 G11 4 4 I,D 4 4 SR D9 H7 4 4 I,D 4 4 4 H9 4 4 4 I,D 4 4 4 4 4 I,O 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 I,D 4

4 Nb 4 Nb 4 4 4 4 4 4 Nb C Nb 4 4 4 Nb 4 4 Nb 4 4 4 4 4 4 Nb

4 4 I,D

C12

4 4 I,O

4 I,D

CHART LEGEND: 4=yes; Nb=nearby; Se=seasonal

Swimming: P=pool; I=indoor pool; G=guest amenity; L=lake; WS=waterslide Horseback Riding: I=identified trails; D=day only; O=overnight camping *Ski resort/downhill, X-C, Tubing, etc. Miscellaneous: SR=shooting range; SC=sporting clays; C=caboose rentals; CC=camper cabins; YT=yurts

West Virginia State Parks 01/12/2016

Road Rules 8 explore • 2016

Acreage Numbers from PLR_02/22/2008

BUCKLE UP! It’s a state law. Children under 3 must be in an approved child safety seat.

NO TEXTING OR CALLING while

driving, unless you’re using a handsfree device.

We’re Closer Than You Think Five major U.S. cities are within 500 miles of popular West Virginia destinations. CHARLOTTE, NC

Beckley, 207 miles Charleston, 264 miles Martinsburg, 386 miles Morgantown, 376 miles Wheeling, 442 miles COLUMBUS, OH

Beckley, 220 miles Charleston, 162 miles Martinsburg, 345 miles Morgantown, 205 miles Wheeling, 128 miles NEW YORK, NY

Beckley, 527 miles Charleston, 532 miles Martinsburg, 262 miles Morgantown, 384 miles Wheeling, 410 miles PITTSBURGH, PA

Beckley, 240 miles Charleston, 228 miles Martinsburg, 189 miles Morgantown, 75 miles Wheeling, 59 miles WASHINGTON, D.C.

Beckley, 306 miles Charleston, 362 miles Martinsburg, 77 miles Morgantown, 210 miles Wheeling, 276 miles

For More Info »»Wild, Wonderful West Virginia

800.225.5982; GoToWV.com

»»West Virginia State Parks wvstateparks.com

»»National Park Service

nps.gov/state/wv; Recreation.gov; 877.444.6777

»»West Virginia 511

For traffic information, call 511 or visit wv511.org.

THE SPEED LIMITS are 70 mph

HELMETS ON!

on most interstate highways, 25 mph in most business or residential areas, and 15 mph in most school zones.

State law requires motorcyclists to wear helmets at all times.

Mountain State Musts

HARPERS FERRY NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK is one of the most

visited destinations in West Virginia.

ENJOY A SUNSET at Snowshoe Mountain Ski Resort.

Not sure where to start? We suggest your visit include these West Virginia wonders.

RIDE THE TRAIN . . .

or trains. Take a trip to Bald Knob aboard the Cass Scenic Railroad, let the Durbin & Greenbrier Railroad transport you to some of the most scenic spots in Appalachia, or look for bald eagles from the Potomac Eagle Scenic Railroad.

EAT A PEPPERONI ROLL, the iconic

state food, They originated in North Central West Virginia as a favorite of coal miners. You can find them at gas stations, grocery stores, and restaurants.

VIEW THE NEW RIVER GORGE

from underneath the towering New River Gorge Bridge. At 876 feet above the canyon, the guided Bridge Walk tour will be something you talk about for years.

THE GREENBRIER is

called “America’s Resort” for good reason.

CONNECT WITH NATURE in one

of West Virginia’s 47 state parks, forests, and wildlife management areas.

SHOOT THE SCENERY at Blackwater Falls State Park, one of the most photographed sites in West Virginia.

SHOP AT TAMARACK TOUR THE HISTORIC STATE CAPITOL in Charleston. No trip to

West Virginia is complete without a look at the 23-karat gold leaf dome.

and bring West Virginia heritage to your home with the state’s largest collection of artisanmade products.

gotowv.com 9

Family memories that last

Forever Memories happen here.

West Virginia State Parks are the perfect setting for your family getaway. Pick your park, and pack your bags today! 10 explore â&#x20AC;˘ 2016

# wvstateparks.com

Fun

CARLA WITT FORD

Whether you fish, hunt, bike, hike, climb, or paddle, the Mountain State is an outdoors enthusiastâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s paradise.

An angler wets his line at Messinger Lake at Coopers Rock State Park.

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TRAVEL TIMES

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 4 hrs, 40 mins Charlotte 5 hrs, 40 mins Columbus 5 hrs, 30 mins

Experience the Mountain State’s famous rivers in a whole new way.

IN THIS STATE, WHITEWATER IS KING. West Virginia is known

for some of the most challenging whitewater on the East Coast. But strapping on a helmet and grabbing a paddle aren’t the only ways to experience our sparkling mountain waters and natural landscapes, says Claire Ayres, assistant general manager at River Riders Family Adventure Resort in Harpers Ferry. The resort offers kayaking, paddleboarding, fishing, canoeing, rafting, and a spread of other activities, but “tubing is our most popular activity in the summer,” she says. “You also get to experience multiple rivers, adventurous or calm, depending on what kind of trip you’re looking for.” 12 explore • 2016

RIVER RIDERS

Take Me to the River

Pittsburgh 3 hrs, 20 mins

This isn’t your typical tubing experience. At Washington, DC River Riders exploration is the main ingredient, 1 hr, 20 mins whether you choose a flatwater or whitewater Toronto, Canada trip. As most tubing excursions at River Riders 7 hrs, 30 mins are unguided, groups are able to stop and go as they please. See a perfect picnic spot along one bend in the Shenandoah? Want to pull over and snap a photo—with your waterproof camera—of mom as she heads into Class III rapids? These sorts of self-guided, self-paced adventures are rare in the whitewater industry. “Tubing on your own gives you the freedom to go wherever your tube takes you,” Ayres says. Safety is still the top priority, however. “You have to watch a safety briefing video before you go, and every guest receives a personal flotation device.” Ayres also strongly recommends tubers be strong swimmers and wear appropriate shoes, as rocks and other obstacles are often part of the experience. Ayres says there’s a trip for everyone, from doggy-paddlers to whitewater enthusiasts. “We do a flatwater course, similar to a lazy river-style float, and a whitewater course, which is our most adventurous activity.” For families with young children or older adults, flatwater is a great way to spend an afternoon—chatting, eating a picnic lunch, and seeing the sights. Flatwater courses take

NEARBY VISIT

Living History

ELIZABETH ROTH

West Virginia’s Eastern Panhandle is rich with history, but it’s hardly stuck in the past.

place on the Shenandoah, where the water is glassy and calm with no rapids and light current. Groups are generally free to explore on their own, though clusters of 10 or more people riding together can request a guide. Children must be at least four years old and 30 pounds to attend. River Riders provides tubes, flotation devices, free shuttle transportation, and parking for all trips. Whitewater tubing on the Potomac is another story. These adventure trips include Class I to III rapids and are only open to families with children age 10 and up who are strong swimmers and at least five feet tall. This trip is best for the adrenaline-seeking vacationer, and Ayres says they’ve found no shortage of groups eager to try it. “This trip is our most popular. The whitewater tour passes by the historic town of Harpers Ferry, where Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia come together.” Guests pass through the famous Harpers Ferry gap and get an up-close view of the area’s well-known rock formations. A single course lasts about two hours but can take up to three depending on water levels. Like the flatwater tour, this trip is self-guided, but River Riders also offers a guided whitewater option. Those looking for a longer, more immersive adventure can find that at River Riders, too. Choose half- or full-day tubing on flatwater or whitewater courses or full-day tubing with lunch provided. A combination of flatwater and whitewater excursions is also available, as well as season passes. No matter what sort of river experience you’re looking for, you’re bound to discover something new to love about West Virginia aboard a tube, Ayres says. “The landscapes, wildlife, and friendly locals make every trip a beautiful one.” Rates range from about $28 per person to $199 for a family-of-four season pass. 408 Alstadts Hill Road, Harpers Ferry; 304.535.2663; riverriders.com

Harpers Ferry Site of abolitionist John Brown’s infamous raid at the U.S. Armory and Arsenal, Harpers Ferry saw the first sparks of the American Civil War. It’s now a mecca for outdoors enthusiasts, with lots of opportunities for hiking, biking, and rafting. Harpers Ferry is home of the Appalachian Trail Conservancy and serves as the midpoint of the 2,200-mile Appalachian Trail. Charles Town Named for the town’s founder Charles Washington, younger brother of President George Washington, Charles Town is a great place to learn about U.S. history with numerous museums, historic battlefields, and period architecture. Martinsburg Only a few years younger than the state itself, Martinsburg maintains a large historic district. Check out the Martinsburg Roundhouse, an impressive circular brick and iron structure once used to service locomotives on the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad line.

Berkeley Springs This Eastern Panhandle community holds an interesting history—although everyone including the U.S. Postal service recognizes the town as Berkeley Springs, its official name is actually “Bath.” It became known for its medicinal waters, which can still be enjoyed at the spa at Berkeley Springs State Park. Shepherdstown Arguably West Virginia’s oldest town, Shepherdstown was founded in 1762. It’s now a hip college town with boutiques, locally owned restaurants, and entertainment options, making it a favorite getaway for urbanites from nearby Washington, D.C.

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These man-made lakes, born from engineering marvels, have become popular recreation destinations.

14 explore • 2016

in Braxton County both were created by dams that control water to their respective rivers: Summersville for the Gauley, Sutton for the Elk. The resulting reservoirs have become popular destinations, with plenty of outdoor activities surrounding them. Summersville Lake’s 2,700 acres and 60 miles of shoreline make it the largest lake in West Virginia. It’s sometimes called “The Little Bahamas of the East” because its clear, deep (327 feet at its deepest point) water is popular with scuba divers. Divers sometimes even see remnants of the town of Gad, which was emptied to make way for the lake. Clear water typically allows divers to see 20 feet to 45 feet around. Nearby Sarge’s Dive Shop will fill air tanks and provide boat shuttle service to the lake’s most interesting points. Of course, Summersville Lake also welcomes motorboaters, kayakers, paddleboarders, and more. Families are drawn to a 300yard stretch of man-made beach at the Battle Run Campground

NIKKI BOWMAN

Go Jump in a Lake

SUMMERSVILLE LAKE IN NICHOLAS COUNTY and Sutton Lake

WILD, WONDERFUL WEST VIRGINIA

that includes a roped-off swimming area. And get this: The lake even has its own lighthouse, a fun addition in 2012 that was created from a castaway section of a wind turbine. The lighthouse offers great views of the lake; it’s open daily April through October and by appointment November to March. Summersville Lake’s most notable physical feature is its tall rock cliffs and series of coves, all ripe for exploring. The coves are perfect for kayakers, paddleboarders, and fishermen who can explore secluded areas for hours. Rock climbers also are drawn to the cliffs where, because of the lake’s changing water levels, the adventure is a bit different each time. Designated “dead zones,” where motorboats must abide by low speed limits, appeal to folks on smaller, unmotorized devices. Groups often start by renting pontoon boats at the marina and using the craft as a home base, pulling up to a rock cliff so that some can explore while others launch off on kayaks or paddleboards, to be picked up later. Rentals can be made for half-day and all-day trips. Areas of calm water make the lake a perfect spot to learn how to navigate a stand-up paddleboard, which mostly requires a bit of balance. And even if you fall, you get a pleasant dip in the lake. Fishermen report the lake is home to walleye, brim, crappie, catfish, and the elusive northern pike. In the fall, it is stocked with trout every other week. Smaller, at 1,520 acres and a maximum depth of 125 feet, Sutton Lake in Braxton County is no less a draw, with 40 miles of shoreline. Created in 1961 by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers project at Sutton Dam, the lake draws swimmers, fishermen, and campers alike. A well-developed series of trails surrounding the nearby Elk River are open for biking, horseback riding, hiking, and even cross-country skiing, depending on weather conditions. The marina located at the lake rents pontoon boats, fishing boats, and houseboats as well as Jet Skis, kayaks, and paddleboards. Fishermen find the lake provides crappie, bluegill, walleye, spotted bass, and largemouth and smallmouth bass. Located just two miles off Interstate 79 at Exit 67, Sutton Lake is an easy drive from many places in West Virginia and beyond. And after a day on the lake, many visitors head to downtown Sutton’s historic district, which offers quaint local shops and some of the area’s finest dining, with popular spots such as Café Cimino Country Inn and P.J. Berry’s. Also close by are the Flatwoods Factory Stores right off Interstate 79 just north of Sutton.

SUP, Dude? Stand-up paddleboarding rides a wave of enthusiasm in the Mountain State.

IT’S NOT CLEAR how

stand-up paddleboarding, or SUP, made its way from tropical Hawaii to our own snaking rivers and mountainous backdrops. But “hoe he’e nalu,” as the sport is known in its home state, is now on the menu at most adventure-driven resorts. Melanie Seiler, executive director of Active Southern West Virginia and SUP program director at Adventures on the Gorge, has been behind the movement from the start here. “It’s really been growing for the last seven or eight years,” Seiler says. “This is just a great place to do it. West Virginia has so many rivers and lakes. It’s easy in having that access to try it out for the first time.” Paddleboarding is a great way for all kinds of athletes, from mountain bikers to skiers, to cross-train and keep up their balance and strength. “In the past, I spent most of my time in the whitewater,” Seiler says. “When I switched to paddleboarding, it made the rapids much more challenging.” When newcomers are starting out, Seiler says they are often surprised to find the sport much easier than anticipated. All you have to do is relax and remember the basics: a stable paddleboard, a paddle, and most importantly, confidence. Those who still need extra time or confidence can also start on their knees. In her role at Adventures on the Gorge, Seiler has seen customers of every age and background tackle the sport. She even organizes races at the New River Gorge and other spots for the more competitive enthusiasts of the sport. Like any sport, it has its extreme athletes and those who just want scenic trips in the valley. It is also a great activity for seniors, she says. “We see more and more come out. It helps to build core muscles and provide cardio without being too physically challenging for them.” 219 Chestnutburg Road, Lansing; 855.379.8738

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Dive Deep

West Virginia’s ultimate underwater adventure sport is fun for all ages.

Melody’s Top West Virginia Scuba Spots Summersville Lake This giant blue gem is the largest lake in the state—a 2,700-acre aquatic playground with 60 miles of shoreline, sheer sandstone cliffs, tons of camping and outdoor recreation, boat and equipment rental options, and close to 1 million visitors a year. “Summersville is our number one spot,” Melody says. In fact, Summersville is the site for most scuba diving certification tests in the region, including Melody’s. The lake, located in the heart of Nicholas County, is known for its warm, clear waters and for the sheer amount of things to explore under its waves, from a sunken boat and diving platform to massive underwater rocks and man-made fish habitats. Don’t forget to stop in at Sarge’s Dive Shop on Airport Road for all the gear you’ll need, as well as certified diving instruction and rentals. summersvillewv.org Tygart Lake This 1,750-acre water impoundment, part of Tygart Lake State Park in Taylor County, is known for its 31 miles of shoreline, deep drop-offs, and clear water—a perfect combination for scuba divers. Melody says diving on this lake is best experienced from a boat, one of the most popular Tygart lake activities. But kayaking, fishing, and swimming at the newly renovated sandy beach are also big draws. If you don’t have your own water vessel, Tygart Lake Marina provides pontoon and fishing boat rentals. If you’d prefer a topside tour of the lake before you dive in, the marina offers houseboat cruises. www.tygartlake.com Mount Storm Lake At 1,200 acres, Mount Storm

Lake in Grant County is no tiny fishing pond. Built in 1965, the reservoir that was once part of Stony River now supports healthy populations of largemouth, black, and smallmouth bass, channel catfish, hybrid striped bass, and walleye. It’s also a scuba diver’s dream, with warm, clear waters—reaching 80 and 90 degrees in summer and 50 in winter. Melody says it’s been outfitted with several diving platforms at various depths. These are frequently used to test equipment and train but they’re also fun places to stop and survey schools of fish darting by. Diving is only allowed from launched boats at Mount Storm, but once you get on the water, the reservoir offers an underwater world worthy of exploring.

open your eyes. That’s your first hurdle to overcome if you want to learn to scuba dive. You also have to be curious. Depending on where you’re diving, especially in West Virginia’s lakes and rivers, you could be entering a warm water paradise shot through with bands of sunlight and dotted with schools of shimmering bass. Or you could be 60 feet down in a chilly green wonderland, navigating underwater cliffs and sunken boats. West Virginia offers a diverse yet safe environment for both first-time divers and pros to explore, says Melody Metz, Professional Association of Diving Instructors-certified diving instructor and owner of full-service scuba and swim outfitter My Dive Shop near Morgantown. “When you go diving other places you have to watch for the aquatic life, but around here you don’t have to worry about that. There’s nothing in (West Virginia’s) waters that will bother you,” she says. Metz knows her stuff. She’s dived everywhere from Key Largo, Florida, to Blue Hole in Preston County and loves it all—saltwater and fresh, tropical and continental. She’s seen sharks and jellyfish, explored massive sunken ships, and collected quite the treasure chest of stories. She can train and certify you in more than 25 diving specialties through her little shop—everything from fish identification to deep diving, where you can descend to a maximum of 130 feet. You might think diving isn’t for everyone but Metz says she’s worked with students young and old, strong swimmers and doggy-paddlers. She’s certified children as young as 11 and she says the maximum age is—well, there isn’t one. In Metz’s classes, she’ll not only teach you how to stay safe, but she’ll also help you assimilate into the local diving community—one that’s growing by leaps and bounds in West Virginia. Metz says she certified about 25 people in 2014 and 80 in 2015. “People are always looking for others to dive with. Diving is a very social club.” She says you’ll find a lot of local divers frequenting West Virginia’s best known lakes and rivers—places like Summersville, Mount Storm, and Tygart. Metz also arranges diving trips around the world. Overcoming fears, getting in shape, exploring, treasure hunting—there are plenty of reasons to take the plunge and learn to scuba dive, Metz says. “The earth is more than 70 percent water. People who stay on the surface miss out on all that. It’s a whole different world under there.” 827 Fairmont Road, Morgantown; 304.241.4142; mydiveshopwv.com

MELODY METZ

DIP YOUR HEAD BELOW the surface and

Take a Hike WITHOUT A DOUBT, the best way to enjoy the

beauty of West Virginia is on foot. And whether you’re a casual day hiker or a backcountry minimalist, you’re sure to find something amazing along the hundreds of miles of trails all around the state. Here are some of our favorite trails: Overlook Rock Trail, Kanawha State Forest Charleston, West Virginia’s biggest city, has mountain trails and views just a short drive from downtown. The short-but-sweet Overlook Rock trail has everything you’d want along the three-mile, round-trip route: mossy rocks, thick trees, and bubbling streams. Once you emerge from the forest to the overlook rock, you are greeted with wide-open views of the hills and hollows that surround Charleston. And to think, you could be back downtown enjoying dinner and drinks in less than an hour. Raven Rock Trail, Coopers Rock State Forest Coopers Rock is the favorite outdoor recreation hub for students at nearby West Virginia University with mountain biking, camping, and rock climbing on the rim of the Cheat River Canyon. Although there are heavily developed guardrail viewpoints just a short walk from the forest’s main visitor area, the best way to take in the views of one of West Virginia’s northernmost gorges is the Raven Rock Trail. From the trailhead, a nice 1.5-mile stroll through the forest—best in the fall—takes you to a craggy rock hundreds of feet above the Cheat River as it meets the flatwater of Cheat Lake.

NIKKI BOWMAN

Dolly Sods, Monongahela National Forest A hike through the meadows and stunted trees of the 17,000-acre Dolly Sods Wilderness Area leads to some of the most remote and stunning views in the Mountain State. With nearly 50 miles of trails, hikers often take two or three days to see everything. The 12-mile Dolly Sods North hike takes you through high mountain meadows and streams and up to the open views of the Rocky Ridge Trail. Or, for a multi-day adventure, the 21-mile hike to the craggy protrusion of Lion’s Head gives you a panoramic view of rolling hills and wilderness in all directions. Long Point Trail, New River Gorge This trail doesn’t look like much at first. During the first few hundred feet, the only scenery you’ll find is the backyards of some houses. But hang in there. At the end of this 1.6-mile jaunt you’ll find yourself on a rocky peninsula between the New River and its tributary Wolf Creek. Hundred-foot sandstone cliffs drop beneath your feet in three directions for one of the best views around of the New River Gorge Bridge. On your return hike, venture off on dozens more trails that take you to abandoned mining towns, the Fayetteville Town Park, and intimate little streams and waterfalls.

If you’re in the mood for another hike while in the Fayetteville area, try the Endless Wall Trail. Long popular with rock climbers, this three-mile trail’s stunning views of the New River Gorge’s rock formations has also become a favorite for local hikers. Listen closely and you might even hear the hoots and hollers from river rafters 1,000 feet below.

gotowv.com 17

Pedal Power NORTH BEND RAIL TRAIL

GREENBRIER RIVER TRAIL

NORTH FORK MOUNTAIN TRAIL

FOR THE LONG RIDERS The North Bend

GREAT FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY With

AN “EPIC” SINGLE-TRACK This scenic

Rail Trail was built from an abandoned section of the CSX railroad. Running from I-77 near Parkersburg to Wolf Summit 72 miles away, the trail passes through 13 tunnels and across 36 bridges. Trail users are encouraged to wear blaze orange or other brightly colored clothing during hunting seasons in West Virginia, since some sections pass through areas where hunting may occur. WHEN YOU GO: If your trip takes you through Pennsboro, check out the Old Stone House, one of the oldest structures in the area. It’s now a museum, filled with artifacts from local history, and home to a regional genealogy and history library.

smooth crushed gravel and just a one percent grade, this scenic countryside rail-trail is an easy ride for everyone in the family. The longest rail trail in the state, it winds alongside the Greenbrier River most of the way, crossing a few times over quaint bridges. You’ll pass ruins of the rails, like the old tunnels and whistleposts, and several parks. WHEN YOU GO: Stop in Marlinton for brunch at the Dirtbean and grab an energy cookie to fuel up for your ride. At the other end of the trail, in Lewisburg, explore the boutique shops and artisan galleries or one of several restaurants offering farm-to-table specialties.

ridgeline ride is truly a mountaintop marvel. Cyclists call it unforgettable— the single most standout experience in a state stocked with stunning trails. It rolls along for 24 miles in the remote backcountry, opening onto sweeping vistas of the valleys below, which are accented by the jagged peaks of Seneca Rocks. It’s one of only a handful of trails in the world to earn “epic” distinction from the International Mountain Bicycling Association. You have to be fully prepared to ride this trail. Once you begin, there are very few exit points until the end, and the ride gets technical. And because it’s so remote, there aren’t any

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CHRIS JACKSON PHOTOGRAPHY

Seriously—where better to mountain bike than the Mountain State? Here are some destinations for families, serious riders, and everyone in between.

Two-Wheelin’ Across the State Wheeling

250

Morgantown Parkersburg

Martinsburg Harpers Ferry

50 Clarksburg Bridgeport

340

220

Huntington

219

79 64

Charleston 19

Existing Rail-Trail

Richwood

119

Fayetteville

Williamson

60 64

Beckley

Lewisburg

White Sulphur Springs

Single-Track Rail-Trail

77 52 460

Bluefield

water stops. WHEN YOU GO: If you still crave more adventure after completing this epic trail, the Via Ferrata at NROCKS is a unique chance to hike/ climb the mountain terrain. There are plenty more natural wonders nearby, too. Tread up to the top of Spruce Knob for panoramic views of the rolling hills, or explore the underground at Smoke Hole Caverns, where you can also find cozy cabin accommodations to relax for the night.

SNOWSHOE MOUNTAIN A DOWNHILL RIDER’S PARADISE One of

the largest biking trail systems this side of the country, Snowshoe Mountain’s bike park gives you the option of 40

downhill trails, sweeping down 1,500 feet. Machine-manicured trails give beginner riders well-maintained paths to ride confidently, with instructors on hand to help out. More challenging trails are lined with man-made obstacles that give serious riders room to play. It’s all fun without the work of uphill riding—speed down a trail that suits your skill level, then take the lifts back up either side of the mountain. WHEN YOU GO: Explore more of the mountain with adventures like horseback riding, hiking, and ziplining, or relax after your ride with a round of golf, spa day, or scenic train ride. After a long day, Snowshoe Resort’s village serves up entertainment and dining. If the open, starry sky catches your interest, stop into the National Radio Astronomy Observatory’s science center and marvel at the massive Green Bank Telescope.

MOUNTWOOD PARK MOUNTAIN BIKE MECCA With a

diverse terrain and well-kept trails, Mountwood in Waverly is one of the East Coast’s most popular biking destinations. Operated and maintained by the River Valley Mountain Bike Association, this park offers a 30-mile network of single track, all constructed to International Mountain Bicycling Association specifications. It is also home to the Challenge at Mountwood, a popular race that draws hundreds of riders from several states. WHEN YOU GO: Mountwood features several lodging options. The park has 87 campsites—70 of which offer electrical and water hookups for recreational vehicles—primitive cabins, and the newly renovated Mountwood Lodging Lake House which offers all the comforts of home. gotowv.com 21

Room with a View Venture to a room a little less square.

Virginia can include some pretty wild accommodations, too. You can find yourself spending the night in a teepee, a renovated school bus, or even high above the ground in a fire tower. When planning your trip, consider these lodging options: The Barn Loft in Fayetteville, located on property near the New River Gorge National River, is the top floor of a 100-year-old red barn featuring charming, if rustic, accomodations. Think twinkly lights and an open view of the stars beyond, if you’re willing to climb a ladder and forgo heat, water, and plumbing. Many visitors The Thorny are—and don’t leave disappointed. Mountain Fire The loft is furnished with a queen-sized Tower in Seneca bed draped with mosquito netting, a dining State Forest takes lodging table, and a reading nook with a lounge chair. to new heights. Owner Holly Clark also serves as a great resource for local attractions and activities. facebook.com/nrgbarnloft Climb the 69 stairs of the Thorny Mountain Fire Tower in Pocahontas County’s Seneca State Forest and your efforts are rewarded with 360-degree views of Cheat Mountain and the Greenbrier River Valley. First constructed as a fire lookout tower in 1935, the building now is rented out to campers. The 14 foot-by-14 foot space is cozy, with two cots and a table and chairs, just enough for a rustic camping experience. senecastateforest.com/FireTower.html Your stay in the Durbin & Greenbrier Valley Railroad caboose starts with a train ride deep into the wilderness in the heart of the Monongahela National Forest. And then you are cut loose—literally. No worries, though. The Durbin & Greenbrier crew will return after your stay in the Castaway Caboose to bring you back to civilization. And while you are there, you’ll be staying in RV-like comfort, as the rail cars have been refurbished to include refrigerators, sinks, stoves, showers, and baths. Your one concession is that the remote area has no cell phone service. Most visitors say they don’t mind a bit. mountainrailwv.com 22 explore • 2016

Owners of Pegasus Farms near Elkins have been welcoming campers for years. But if you don’t want to bring your own tent or RV, they’ll offer up one of two renovated buses for you to stay in. The buses are dubbed Zen 1—a renovated school bus—and Zen 3—a renovated coach. pegasusfarmcampground.com The Spruce Knob Mountain Center, a nature preserve and education center in the Potomac Highlands, offers several types of accommodations, including a stay in an authentic yurt, patterned after traditional Mongolian yurts. The Potomac Highlands boast some of the darkest night skies in the Eastern United States along with the highest peak in West Virginia, Spruce Knob. And what better place to view the starry nights than from the aerie bubble of a yurt—a skylight that offers breathtaking views. mountain.org/skmc Yokum’s Vacationland, located near Seneca Rocks, offers traditional camping, cabins, bunk houses, and an Indian Village with actual teepees. At 12 feet across, they offer more space than you might expect, along with a couple of amenities, including an overhead fan and electrical outlet. yokum.com

NIKKI BOWMAN

A VISIT TO WILD, WONDERFUL West

CARLA WITT FORD

Spend the night in seclusion in Durbin & Greenbrier's Castaway Caboose.

TRAVEL TIMES

ACE Adventure Resort in the New River Gorge offers fun for adventure seekers of all kinds. THIRTY-FIVE YEARS AGO, Ernie Kincaid founded one of the first

West Virginia whitewater rafting companies licensed to guide whitewater trips on the New River. An avid outdoorsman and native of the area, Kincaid perhaps could been content to have American-Canadian Expeditions—or ACE Adventure Resort, as it’s now known—focus on rafting alone, with a little primitive camping thrown in for visitors who wanted to spend the night. But Kincaid and his partner, Jerry Cook, who joined the venture eight years later, have taken the “adventure” part of their company’s name and broadened it greatly. Come to ACE’s facility in the New River Gorge and book a thrilling whitewater trip on either the New or Gauley river. But if you want more—or if whitewater rafting isn’t your cup of tea—there are many more outdoor activities to hold your interest, and they extend far beyond summer attractions. ACE offers 35 attractions along with dining at two restaurants and a bar. There’s zip-lining—day and night tours are offered on the company’s nine zip lines and two sky bridges that take guests on thrilling rides through the forest canopies. Or plan a guided rock climbing or rappelling trip. There are mountain biking, horseback riding, hiking, and kayaking. ACE hasn’t missed out on the new trend for stand-up paddleboarding, either. The family-friendly Adventure Lake has become one of ACE’s most popular attractions, a hub of summer activity with swimming and inflatables for all ages. While the lake has been offered free to ACE customers for years, says ACE marketing director Heidi Prior, it wasn’t really marketed as its own destination attraction until 2015. “We’re purchasing some new toys—bigger and better slides—and we are going to make it more aesthetically pleasing with landscaping,” she says. The lake inspired a new fall attraction for 2015 that proved quite popular. Prior says the lake gets drained a bit after the summer season and employees have long joked that it looks a bit eerie, comparing it to the fictional Crystal Lake of the Friday the 13th horror movie series. So they set up a haunted trail that coincided with a trail run ACE was sponsoring. “We did really well with it—we were really surprised,” Prior says. Don’t be surprised if the event becomes an annual tradition. “We are always trying to find ways to expand our season,” says Prior, an avid outdoorswoman who still guides rafting tours when she can. “I love the river and I am a raft guide at heart, but not everyone is interested in rafting. Our job is letting people know that you don’t have to go whitewater rafting.” You also don’t have to commit to primitive camping. While you certainly can bring a tent or sleep under the stars, ACE long ago 24 explore • 2016

Charlotte 3 hrs, 30 mins Columbus 3 hrs, 30 mins Pittsburgh 3 hrs, 30 mins Washington, DC 5 hours Toronto, Canada 8 hrs, 10 mins

recognized some folks want a roof over their heads and a bed, along with meals that are a bit broader than hot dogs cooked over an open fire. “One of ACE’s biggest successes is its ability to constantly change and adapt,” Prior says. “Guests wanted hard lodging, diverse activities, and restaurants.” ACE even sponsors several music festivals during the season and in 2014 officially opened a new, 12,500-person capacity festival area. Prior credits ACE’s owners, calling them “creative dreamers.” “They are not afraid to try new things and thrive on new challenges,” she says. ACE is invested in the greater community as well, Prior says. “I firmly believe that we are only as strong as the community we live in. I have no problem suggesting a local restaurant or other attraction to our guests. I think it makes them leave feeling like they haven’t seen all West Virginia has to offer and drives them to return,” she says. West Virginians remain ACE’s most loyal customers, with more than 25 percent of guests hailing from right here at home. But visitors also drive from Washington, D.C., Ohio, Virginia, and Michigan. More than 65 percent of guests are repeat visitors. Rafting trips are offered from March through November, depending on conditions. The New River offers milder rides, with upper New River tours allowing children as young as six. Upper New River tours run from May to October, while lower New River tours run from March to November. Thrill seekers looking for Class V+ rapids can book Gauley River tours in about a five-week window from September into October known as “Gauley Season.” Beginning the first weekend after Labor Day, this is when the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers begins its annual draw-down of Summersville Lake. The release goes on for six weeks, sending an additional 2,800 cubic feet of water per second down the river canyon, giving rafters an especially breathtaking adventure. The Upper Gauley tours allow children 15 and older, while lower Gauley tours permit children 12 and older. Zip-lining is offered year-round, weather permitting. ACE Adventures is located off U.S. 19 in Minden. Package deals are available when booking multiple activities. 1 Concho Road, Minden; 800.787.3982; aceraft.com

ACE ADVENTURE RESORT

Adventures at Hand

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 1 hr, 10 mins

ACE Adventure Resort offers whitewater rafting trips but also so much moreâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;from zip-lining and swimming to horseback riding and hiking.

gotowv.com 25

Hang in There Aerial obstacle courses teach problem-solving from above.

FOR THOSE LOOKING for a fun, unique challenge for the

whole family or a group of pals, head onward and upward to three aerial challenge courses scattered throughout the state. Aerial challenge courses give participants a chance to work collaboratively through obstacles perched upon treetops, rope bridges, and other airborne structures. While strength and agility can boost you through the challenges, it’s not really a game of physical skill. Most of the obstacles are just “puzzles” that need to be figured out. And don’t worry about needing Superman-like flying capabilities to navigate the sites— you’ll always be strapped in for safety.

TimberTrek Adventure Park TimberTrek’s five courses set puzzles high—some really high, up to 50 feet— above the forest floor at Adventures on the Gorge. Children as young as seven can take on obstacles, bridges, and zip lines from platform to platform. Participants can test their agility and strength as they climb four wooded acres and over 60 platforms. Each course is self-guided, allowing visitors to move at their own pace. And if daring by daylight isn’t enough, try MoonTrek and traverse the same courses at night. TimberTrek trips are available by reservation, or walk up when the course is in operation. A trail system extends underneath, perfect for spectators. 219 Chestnutburg Road, Lansing; adventuresonthegorge.com Adventure WV Challenge Course What better way to test your Mountaineer mettle than at the West Virginia University’s Adventure WV Challenge Course? The course is a multi-faceted programming facility specifically designed to promote teamwork and 26 explore • 2016

collaboration, with elements on the ground and in the air. From rope walls to the giant swing, these obstacles are metaphors for challenges you might face as a team. Each can be completed in a variety of ways—but it’s up to the team, working as one cohesive unit, to unravel the best solution. The Challenge Course is located in the University Research Forest. Course activities focus on teambuilding and problem solving in a comfortable and controlled learning environment. Some of the activities take place on one of three unique high elements measuring up to 50 feet off the ground. Trained facilitators are on hand to maintain a safe learning environment. 397 Chestnut Ridge Road, Bruceton Mills; adventurechallenge.wvu.edu/challenge-course

JAY YOUNG

Aerial Forest Adventure Park At the Aerial Forest Adventure Park near Harpers Ferry participants must conquer zip lines, a Tarzan swing, rope bridges, log bridges, and other aerial adventures. The revolutionary smart belay system provides the adventure park operator with an interactive pulley system, providing more safety and security for visitors. The 60-element, five-trail challenge course that makes up the adventure park covers four beautiful wooded acres above River Riders’ main base. Courses are rated on a scale similar to a ski resort—with yellow being the easiest and black the most difficult. Each trail has approximately 12 challenge elements and zip lines. 408 Alstadts Hill Road, Harpers Ferry; harpersferryadventurepark.com

TRAVEL TIMES

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 4 hrs, 30 mins Charlotte 5 hrs, 40 mins Columbus 5 hrs, 20 mins Pittsburgh 3 hours Washington, DC 1 hr, 30 mins

PICCADILLY POSH PHOTOGRAPHY

A Wing and a Prayer

Toronto, Canada 7 hrs, 20 mins

HUNTERS ARE REQUIRED to have current West Virginia hunting or small game shooting preserve licenses. West Virginia residents may purchase licenses for $19; non-residents for $119. You must also purchase a $13 conservation/law enforcement stamp. For more information, visit wvdnr.gov. To apply for and purchase a hunting license online, visit wvhunt.com.

learn how to shoot a bird in flight and experienced hunters can practice This orchard offers visitors a shot at a sport dating a bit before heading into the field. back to the country’s founders. While most hunters bring their own shotguns, the farm also provides gun and ammunition: 12-gauge, BIRD HUNTING HAS ITS ROOTS in Great Britain. Colonists 20-gauge, and 28-gauge shotguns are typically used. Bow hunters are brought the sport to the New World, where it was less a pleasurable welcome, too, but are a rare sight. pursuit and more of a practical matter—it was a good way of putting There is no age limit for hunting, and the Minnicks rely on parents food on the table. to let them know their children’s skill levels. Kids often find bird huntAvid hunters interested in experiencing the challenge of wing ing much more active and exciting. Hunters with physical limitations shooting have typically had to book trips out West, but thanks to the also are welcome and the farm has four-wheelers to transport people efforts of a farmer in West Virginia’s Eastern Panhandle, East Coast with disabilities. Customers interested in staying overnight are invited hunters now have an option much closer to home. to bring tents or campers. There also is lodging available in nearby In 2009, Gordon Hockman began offering hunting on a 300-acre Shepherdstown, including the locally-owned Bavarian Inn. farm near Charles Town that has been in his family for three generaThe four guides now working at Twin Ridge schedule hunts with tions. Visitors to the Twin Ridge Upland Bird Farm soon made it so a maximum of three groups of three hunters at one time. Each group popular that Hockman could not maintain the hunting venture along includes the guide and dogs—hunters can take their own hounds or with his working orchard, so he leased the bird-hunting concession to use the dogs at Twin Ridge. Hunters will go after birds including experienced hunting guides and brothers Mark and Brant Minnick. pheasants, quail, and Eurasian game birds called chukars that are The farm is located an easy driving distance from cities released 20 minutes before hunters and dogs head out. When a bird is such as Baltimore and Washington, D.C., as well as areas of shot, one of the hunting dogs will retrieve it. western Maryland, northern Virginia, and West Virginia’s Eastern Twin Ridge offers several hunts—17 pheasants, 24 chukars, 36 Panhandle, making it a budget-friendly alternative to trips out West. quail, or a “mixed bag” of 24 birds from all three species—for $335. Twin Ridge buys pen-raised birds and releases them for its guided Guided hunts cost an additional $50 fee, which includes a hunting hunts. Some might think hunting birds that have been “planted” dog and lunch. Guests using their own dogs pay a field fee of $25. is too easy, but visitors quickly discover that isn’t true. After all, a Hunters can also customize their own hunts, selecting their party size hunter still has to be proficient in the skill of swinging and mounting and the kind of game. Twin Ridge also skins and butchers birds. his or her shotgun, and then aiming at a small moving target. Hunting season begins about mid-October, after all of the apples And though the Minnicks have tried encouraging birds to stay and at the still-working orchard are picked, and runs through the end nest on the farm, they haven’t been successful. Neighboring farmers of March. Twin Ridge Upland Farm is located at 1281 Luther sometimes report seeing pheasant and quail, and the Minnicks know Jones Road in Shenandoah Junction, about 10 minutes from both they have ventured from Twin Ridge, because there are no native Shepherdstown and Charles Town. Reservations are required pheasant or quail remaining in the area. and can be made every day except for the weeks of Thanksgiving The farm is set up to help hunters through the entire bird-hunting and Christmas. 1281 Luther Jones Road, Shenandoah Junction; experience. There are nine clay shooting stations where beginners can 301.834.7632; hunttwinridge.com gotowv.com 27

Reading the Water

t isn’t hard to imagine why the Elkins area has been called a fisherman’s paradise—just take a look at an aerial view of the region. From the crazy loops and switchbacks of the Tygart Valley River running through town to the calligraphic curves of nearby Shavers Fork, which borders the expansive 920,000acre Monongahela National Forest, Elkins is at the heart of a merry tangle of rivers, streams, creeks, and brooks. And many say it is the veritable epicenter of recreational fishing in the state. In fact the area is legendary among fly fishermen looking for that elusive trophy trout. “If I had to provide advice to someone who wanted to see the most spectacular trout streams in the East, I would recommend staying in Elkins,” says Curtis Fleming, Bridgeport native and award-winning host of the popular Outdoor Channel show Fly Rod Chronicles with Curtis Fleming. “It’s centrally located within a few miles of native brook trout streams and several miles of

28 explore • 2016

stocked rainbow trout, brown trout, brook trout, and golden trout streams. All of the streams and rivers can be fished by spin fisherman, bait fishermen, or fly fishermen.” Ample bass and muskellunge also call the rivers and streams of the region home, so a line and a lure can buy a fisherman many hours of leisure, not to mention a bit of excitement, and, possibly, a tasty dinner—if you can decide which of the many streams to fish. “I can wake up on a nice Saturday or head out after a workday and take my pick of locations,” says Buckhannon native and Elkins resident Jonathan Paine. Paine grew up casting a line but only caught the fly-fishing bug about 10 years ago. Today he’s considered a local authority on fly-fishing and acts as an administrator on the popular wvangler.com. “It’s an incredible experience to catch a fish on one of your own creations. It really is an art,” he says of creating his own flies. “Fly-fishing is a science, an art, and a sport.”

ELK SPRINGS RESORT

From fly-fishing for native trout to outsmarting the elusive muskellunge, fishing in Elkins isn’t just a sport. It’s an art, a science, and a way of life.

Get Outfitted

SHOP

Whether you prefer gearing up with big-box outfitters or family-run stores, West Virginia has plenty of options to be sure you have everything you need:

Cabela’s

200 Cross Terrace Boulevard, Charleston, 304.400.6000; 1 Cabela Drive, Triadelphia, 304.238.0120; cabelas.com

Dick’s Sporting Goods

60 Mall Road, Barboursville; 304.733.9720 5475 Robert C Byrd Drive #6, Mount Hope; 304.252.3425

Elk Springs Fly Shop

14A Dry Branch Road, Monterville; 304.339.2359

Evergreen Fly Fishing Co. 1809 West Pike Street, Clarksburg; 304.566.7361

Mountaineer Gun Sales, LLC 659 Point Marion Road, Morgantown; 304.284.9811

Wheeler’s Sporting Goods Route 33 East, Elkins; 304.636.3430

Paine spent a lot of time in the Elkins area before settling there. As a former network engineer for an agency in Clarksburg, he used his weekends in the country to unwind. “For me, being surrounded by computers and technology all day, I needed to get outside and relax.” In the end, the cornucopia of fishing opportunities is partially what convinced Paine to pack up and move to Elkins—that and a great job opportunity as director of technology for Randolph County Schools. Paine’s only qualm with the area since putting down roots is actually having too many fishing options to fit them all in on any given weekend. But he’s pretty sure that’s a good problem to have. “I can go north to Tucker County and the Canaan area. I can go west to Seneca Creek and east to the Monongahela National Forest. I can also go south to the Elk River and the southern part of Randolph County. Sometimes I just get in my vehicle and start driving and wherever I end up is where I fish.” Paine says any one species of fish—the trout for example—offers many options of difficulty level, scenery, distance from home, and

LARGEMOUTH BASS: Known for voracious appetites and determined battles, these fish lurk around weed beds in many of the state’s waterways. Popular spots include: Cheat, Stonewall Jackson, and Sutton lakes and the Ohio River. Anglers may keep six fish daily. SMALLMOUTH BASS: Prone to acrobatic leaps

when hooked, catching even a small one is a thrill. They can be found on rocky shelves or shoals in Summersville and Tygart lakes or in the Cacapon and Potomac rivers. Daily limit is six fish. WALLEYE: This largest member of the Perch family is a tremendous fighter. If you’re lucky enough to land one, its white, flaky meat makes for spectacular table fare. Head out at dusk or dawn on the Jennings Randolph or Stonecoal lakes or the Monongahela or Kanawha rivers. Anglers may keep eight fish per day on lakes and 10 per day on rivers. MUSKELLUNGE: Also known as “The Fish of

10,000 Casts,” this famously elusive fish can grow to monstrous proportions—often exceeding 40 pounds. Big fish like big meals, so tie on the largest spinner or crankbait you have and try your luck in Burnsville or Stonecoal lakes or in the Elk River near Sutton. Limit is two per day. CATFISH: These husky denizens of warm, murky waters aren’t pretty, but they sure are delicious. Bait your hook with sardines or chicken livers and head out to Beech Fork Lake, Bluestone Lake, or the Kanawha or Ohio rivers. Anglers can keep two blue catfish per day and four channel catfish per day. TROUT: Whether it is a brook trout, brown trout,

or rainbow trout, these beautifully colored fish are even more breathtaking than the clear, pristine mountain streams they live in. If you’re lucky, you might catch a rare golden trout, unique to West Virginia. Bring your fly gear or just try good old-fashioned worms. Limit is six per day. Other species found around West Virginia include sunfish, yellow perch, northern pike, sauger, sturgeon, and striped bass. Check special regulations for each waterway you fish. Find detailed information at wvdnr.gov/fishing/ Regs12/regs_SpecialAreas.pdf.

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Fishing in Style

NEARBY STAY

At Elk Springs Resort, fly-fishing is the name of the game, but you can have a great stay without wetting a line. elegant and quiet place to relax just steps away from some of the best fly-fishing in the state. Within the nicely appointed wood-paneled lodge are six spacious guest rooms with Wi-Fi, Jacuzzi tubs, refrigerators, and televisions. It sleeps up to 22 people and is located 13 miles from Snowshoe Mountain. But the raison d’etre of the resort is trout: cagey rainbows, browns, and brooks ready to give any fisherman a run. The Orvis-endorsed Fly Shop, one of the largest in the East, provides you with all the gear imaginable. Never fished for trout? Head guide Dave “Elkfisher” Breitmeier, a legend in these parts, is happy to share his secrets. “Elk Springs is unique, because this stretch of the Elk River is a perfect environment for trout,” owner Lisa Dean explains. “The river goes underground in Pocahontas County and travels six miles through limestone to our property, where it bubbles up to join two springs. It surfaces at 50 degrees in winter, when everything else is frozen and too cold for trout. In the summer, the water is 64 degrees, still good for trout when other waters are too warm. The limestone also provides natural filtration, so the water is at just the right pH level for trout to flourish.” As if that weren’t enough for a fisherman’s nirvana, the Elk Springs trout have a ready food supply, because insects that lay their eggs in water also love the river conditions. “There’s always a fly hatching here, year-round,” says Dean. In fishing jargon, “matching the hatch” is the game fly fishermen play, and Elk Springs is one of the few places in the east where it’s “Game On” 12 months of the year. But here’s the catch: If you outsmart and land the fish of your dreams in the Elk, you ease the hook from his lip and let him swim away. This part of the river is designated catch-and-release by the West Virginia Department of Natural Resources. However, the resort has ponds for its guests occupied by some real whoppers, too. For a small fee you can keep your trophy catch. Dean says, “This place is one of fly-fishing’s greatest secrets. Why go anywhere else when you can have it all here in West Virginia?” #14A Dry Branch Road, Monterville; 877.ELK.SPRINGS 30 explore • 2016

other factors. “Say you want to catch our state fish—the native brook trout. You can just drive to the Monongahela National Forest—minutes away—and explore the entire forest. You can look at a map, put your finger on a creek, and odds are you’ll find native brook trout in there.” The Elkins area is also a prime location for a new, extreme version of fly-fishing—with the notoriously smart, feisty muskellunge, also known as muskies, as the target. “Muskies are a predatory fish. You have to use larger gear and larger flies to mimic the larger baitfish,” Paine says. “You can go out and catch a dozen trout in a day. You can’t do that with muskies. They’re very hard to catch—a moody fish. But there’s definitely an adrenaline rush when you see one approaching your fly. It’s a whole different ball game.” The popularity of streams near Elkins can also make for a challenge, Fleming says. “Some of our stocked trout that get pressured by anglers can be the smartest fish in the world.” Fleming calls them educated and warns fishermen visiting the area not to underestimate their wiles. “Native brook trout especially are incredible survivors and are born and breed in these pure, clear, tiny streams,” he says. These fish even become nocturnal feeders just to avoid the hook, so learning to “read the water” and anticipate the fish’s moves is key. “The best approach is to be stealthy and fish for them during low light conditions early in the morning or late in the evening. And always approach the fish from downstream, so you don’t alarm those wise ones.” Despite its seeming aura of difficulty, Fleming says fly-fishing is actually easy to learn and well worth the effort, even if it does take some finesse to perfect it. “You don’t have to be athletic or strong to be a fly fishermen. It has a lot more to do with timing, practice, and patience. You also don’t have to be an expert fly fisherman to

KRISTEN BOEHM

ELK SPRINGS RESORT is a fisherman’s paradise—an

Drop a Line

Curtis Fleming and Jonathan Paine weigh in on a few of their favorite West Virginia spots.

West Virginia has thousands of acres of easily accessible public land for hunting and fishing at no cost. These areas are located all around the state. Check out wvdnr.gov and wvstateparks.com for more information.

Shavers Fork Winding along 89 miles, this branch of the Cheat River lies east of Elkins and is a favorite among outdoor enthusiasts like Curtis Fleming. He claims the cold, clear waters separating Elkins from the sweeping wilderness of the Monongahela National Forest are perfect for the fisherman who likes to get off the beaten path. “You can fish the stream all the way from Snowshoe Resort downstream to below Elkins,” Fleming says. Looking for a trophy trout? Shavers Fork has excellent catch-and-release fishing areas. Looking for dinner? The same river also has “put and take” systems that let you keep your catch. Lower Shavers Fork and Cheat River Elkins native Jonathan Paine says these areas are great for bass fishing and the occasional trout. They’re also great for relaxing on the water in a canoe or kayak. “There are a lot of streams around here that have excellent largemouth and smallmouth bass,” he says.

it’s also a challenge. “Often the water is very clear, and the trout are very, very wary up there. Their instinct—when they sense a fisherman is around—is to hide,” Paine says. Seneca Creek This small stream portion of the North Fork of the South Branch of the Potomac is located in the Monongahela National Forest east of Elkins. It is managed as a wild trout stream and maintains both brook trout and wild rainbow trout. Tygart Valley River At 135 miles long, this tributary of the Monongahela River winds through the town of Elkins and offers good smallmouth bass and muskie fishing. Upstream you may find the occasional trout. Elk River Some angling enthusiasts

catch fish. Even a bad cast can may not realize the Elk River is just reward you with a fish. It is about over the mountain from Elkins, offering presenting the fly in a free-flowing all species of trout fishing and catchpresentation to the fish, hoping to and-release sections as well as a unique, imitate that bug and fool the fish Slaty Fork These first few miles of the nearly year-round fly hatch season. into taking your artificial fly.” Elk River headwaters are a catch-and“The Elk River is a true fly-fishing So what’s the secret to the release regulated wild trout fishery. It’s experience,” Paine says. “It gives you Elkins area’s incredible fishing a great place for naturally reproducing an opportunity to match the hatch on opportunities? What makes this brown, rainbow, and brook trout, but educated trout.” region a haven for all types of angling enthusiasts? Just hike out to the Elk River certain times of the year and you’ll see. “In late May or early June, you can drive along the Elk River and you’ll see fly fishermen everywhere—especially in the evening. That’s when they’re anticipating the Sulphur mayfly spinner fall,” Paine says. This healthy insect population is one reason the area is such a draw BIG GAME WV RESIDENT for fly fishermen. “The mountain streams are free flowing and rich Hunting License $19 HUNTING SEASON with aquatic bug life. They’re an entomologist’s dream,” Fleming says. Fishing License $19 September thru December Mayflies, stoneflies, and caddis flies are abundant around the Combo $35 Whitetail Deer, Black Bears, Wild Boar area’s many cold water streams, and at certain times of the year the NON-RESIDENT air is so thick with them even seasoned fishermen just have to take a WILD TURKEY SEASON Hunting License $119 moment and watch this million-year-old dance of life and death in Fishing License $37 Mid-April thru Mid-May Mid-October thru Midawe. “A mayfly usually lives for one day, basically just long enough to November Hunter’s safety course reproduce,” Paine says. “In the evenings on the river, after the insects certification required. are done mating, the females lay their eggs and the males spin down Special stamps/permits SMALL GAME required for black bear, HUNTING SEASON to the surface of the water and die. The fish, of course, are looking wild turkey, and trout. Varies by County to the surface, waiting for an easy meal. That’s when the fly-fishing www.wvhunt.com Waterfowl, Upland Birds, is at its best. The fish are feeding at the surface and rising. It’s really www.wvfish.com Rabbits, Squirrels, Raccoons, Fox, Coyotes, and Bobcats something to sit back and watch.” gotowv.com 31

2 unique histories collide in the WV mountains! Old-world winemaking, generations-old family restaurants, Catholic tradition, authentic European holiday celebrations & more. Not to mention WV’s country cookin’ treat with an Italian touch! Taste the original pepperoni roll here. Explore Italy in Appalachia in Marion County at ItalyInAppalachia.com

304-368-1123 •

ItalyInAppalachia.com

MOUNTAIN FLAVOR

CARLA WITT FORD

West Virginia chefs, brew masters, distillers, and winemakers draw inspiration from a huge mixing bowl of cultural influenceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;making this a perfect place to eat, drink, and be merry.

Shrimp cachapa at El Gran Sabor, a Venezuelan restaurant in Elkins.

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Real. MOUNTAIN FLAVOR

A Taste of Italy Find Old Country influences all over the state.

boxes, and you’ll probably find something surprising: traditional recipes for Italian-American staples like spaghetti, lasagna, and rigatoni. Even if grandma didn’t come from Italy, she likely got the recipe from somebody who did. The state has a long history of Italian immigrants, and they have left an indelible mark on our culture. This influence can be glimpsed in the Italian restaurants found all around the state. Drop by on any given day, and Muriale’s Italian Restaurant in Fairmont bustles. Friday lunch, Tuesday dinner, it doesn’t matter— there’s always a line and no one minds the wait. That’s because customers know, eventually, they will dig into fragrant plates of pasta, share carafes of wine, and linger over dessert and coffee out on the deck in warm weather or inside cozy rooms decorated with sports and Italian memorabilia. It’s an experience worth waiting for. A meal at Muriale’s is a relaxed affair. Baskets of Italian bread arrive promptly, and salads are almost mini dishes of antipasto, with pepperoncini and roasted reds, pepperoni, marinated onions, and olives. The Italian dressing merits its “house” status, and your salad is topped, if you like, with liberal spoonings of grated cheese. Entrees arrive on big platters. Most popular are the restaurant’s lasagna and its meatballs, both of which nestle under ladles of signature sauce. Muriale’s prides itself on its bold red sauce—the thing that most distinguishes southern cuisine from foods of other regions in Italy. But don’t get too stuffed—there’s lots on the dessert tray for the chocolate devotee, along with classic sweets like cannoli and tiramisu and several varieties of cheesecake. 1742 Fairmont Avenue, Fairmont; 304.363.3190; murialesrestaurant.com Puglioni’s Pasta and Pizza has changed hands three times since it opened in 1989, but most longtime customers never realized it. The restaurant has managed to maintain its legacy of homemade pasta dressed with rich flavorful sauces, freshly baked bread drenched in decadent garlic butter, and salads served with the restaurant’s renowned pine nut vinaigrette. That’s not to say the restaurant’s menu is static, however. Puglioni’s co-owner Nancy Driscoll keeps a notebook full of recipes and encourages her cooks to read cookbooks and be creative in the kitchen. So while you can always find your favorites at Puglioni’s, there is also something new to try. 1137 Van Voorhis Road #13, Morgantown; 304.599.7521; pugspasta.com In 1978 Jim and Marilyn Pettit bought an old Sunoco gas station in Williamstown and set about turning it into a pizza shop. They opened 34 explore • 2016

for business in 1980, serving a simple menu of pizza and subs in one small dining room with 13 tables. Things at Da Vinci’s have expanded since then. The sprawling establishment can now seat 550 people during the cold months, and as many as 600 people when the patio is open. But although seating is divided between several rooms, the restaurant still carries a very intimate vibe and some really good grub. Try the German Pizza, a Da Vinci’s pizza crust topped with horseradish sauce in lieu of tomato sauce, plus corned beef, sauerkraut, and cheese. Or order Pasta Mona Lisa, a dish so popular the Pettits had it trademarked—its thin spaghetti is baked with meat sauce, mozzarella cheese, green peppers, and pepperoni. In addition to Da Vinci’s regular menu, the restaurant has an extensive list of specials that change every day. The staff even maintains a master list of regular customers, their phone numbers, and their favorite specials. Whenever that dish is on the menu, that customer gets a call letting them know. The call list for dessert items is especially long. 215 Highland Avenue, Williamstown; 304.375.3633; villadavinci.com Located in Wheeling, DiCarlo’s is truly an original. When a piping hot pizza comes from the oven, it is topped with cold provolone cheese—that’s right, cold cheese—and sliced into neat squares. Strange as it might seem, faithful customers swear by this unusual technique. The pizza is so popular, DiCarlo’s has been able to keep its menu simple. The pizza options can fit on a business card.

REBECCA KIGER FOTOGRAFIA

THUMB THROUGH MANY West Virginia grandmothers’ recipe

CARLA WITT FORD; REBECCA DEVONO PHOTOGRAPHY

Choose between a “3 Cut,” “6 Cut,” or “16 Cut” pizza, then pick your toppings: pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms, peppers, olives, red onions, extra cheese. That’s it. The restaurant also sells calzones, pepperoni rolls, salads, and breadsticks—and they’re all good—but you’re missing out if you stop in DiCarlo’s without trying the pizza. Just be sure to eat it before the cheese warms up. Of course, that probably won’t be a problem. 1311 Main Street, Wheeling; 304.233.0730; dicarlospizza.com Jim’s Steak and Spaghetti House—known only as “Jim’s” to locals—didn’t start out serving Italian food. The restaurant opened in 1938 as The Kennedy Dairy Store, but then an Italian immigrant named Roberto Elmoro dropped in wanting to help establish a local spaghetti house and offered his help with the menu. After learning Roberto’s original spaghetti sauce recipe—a family secret still used today—and expanding the restaurant to include a neighboring space, Jim reopened as The Spaghetti House in 1944. They added “Steak” to the name in 1962, after another expansion. Not much has changed since then. The restaurant is still decked out in shades of green and white. Lighting fixtures from the 1960s still grace the ceilings and walls, and old photographs line the walls—including one of John F. Kennedy visiting the restaurant during his 1960 presidential campaign. The wait staff still wears crisp white uniforms. And for goodness sakes, don’t try to pay with a credit card. Jim’s only accepts cash or check. 920 5th Avenue, Huntington; 304.696.9788; jimsspaghetti.com Leonoro’s Spaghetti House was serving up pasta in red sauce long before Charleston’s East End became a hotbed of hip eateries. The restaurant celebrated its 100th birthday in 2015 and is still run by the same family. The menu is simple, the plates adorned only with strands of freshly boiled pasta and the deep red of a finely seasoned marinara and finished with a meatball—or two—on top. The staff, as loyal as the restaurant’s customers, will tie a plastic bib around the necks of diners to save their crisp business attire from the inevitable drippings of twirling pasta. That’s the kind of service that keeps customers coming back not just year after year, but generation after generation. 1507 Washington Street East, Charleston; 304.343.1851; leonorosspaghettihouse.com

A Rockin’ Roll

The humble pepperoni roll, explained. STOP INTO ALMOST any West Virginia conve-

nience store and there, by the cash registers, you’ll notice little loaves of bread wrapped in plastic. These are pepperoni rolls—soft rolls with pieces of cured meat stuffed inside. As unassuming as they might appear, these are actually one of the Mountain State’s most treasured snacks. As best anyone can tell, the treat was invented by an Italian immigrant named Giuseppe Argiro who came to West Virginia in 1920 to work in the coal mines. He left the mines a few years later, moved to Fairmont, and opened Country Club Bakery. Argiro never forgot his time as a coal miner, however, and drew inspiration from that experience to create his iconic dish. The pepperoni roll is a working man’s snack, meant to be eaten with one hand. Country Club Bakery is still in operation in Fairmont, and it’s still churning out delicious pepperoni rolls. Other bakeries have gotten in on the act, too. Colasessano’s Carry Out in Fairmont has earned its share of devotees, as have Tomaro’s Bakery in Clarksburg and Chico’s Bakery in Morgantown. For those who don’t eat meat, Starling’s Café and Bakery in Charleston offers a version made with vegetarian pepperoni. While the pepperoni roll is almost universally adored, debates still rage over proper protocol. Argiro apparently made his rolls with sticks of pepperoni, although many now contend sliced pepperoni is the only way to go. Cheese is sometimes incorporated, too, although purists consider this an unnecessary addition.

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Real. MOUNTAIN FLAVOR

Happy Days Here Again

Frostop Drive-In, Huntington Even today Frostop’s customers can’t stop raving about the frosted mugs of root beer at this 1950s classic drive-in. The franchise once stretched across the United States, with establishments marked by a spinning root beer mug on top of the buildings. Now only a few remain but the frosted mug adorning Huntington’s Frostop franchise—first opened in 1959—twirls on. Frostop is open seven days a week from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. on weekdays and 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. on weekends. 1449 Hal Greer Boulevard, Huntington; 304.523.6851

THE 1950S ARE ALIVE AND WELL across the Mountain State, with old-school drive-ins offering everything from traditional West Virginia hot dogs with chili and slaw to pizza and milkshakes. While the drive-in’s heyday is definitely over across much of America, these beloved local eateries continue to thrive because of their original recipes and loyal customers. If you’re looking for a hearty meal with local flair, you’ll drive away from any of these establishments with a full belly, happy taste buds, and some nostalgia for old Americana. 36 explore • 2016

King Tut Drive-In, Beckley The service at King Tut Drive-In is fit for a pharaoh. Customers rave about the extensive menu, particularly the milkshakes and cream pies. The Beckley staple opened in the 1940s and has been owned by the McKay family since 1955, says co-owner David McKay. “We don’t cut any corners. We have a pretty wide-ranging menu that includes full dinners and a lot of homemade items,” he says. “A lot of the recipes came from my grandmother.” Bestsellers include the twice-baked potato, English hot dogs, and homemade pies that sell out daily. King Tut is open from 10:30 a.m. to 11 p.m., Thursday through Tuesday; closed on Wednesdays. 301 North Eisenhower Drive, Beckley; 304.252.6353

NIKKI BOWMAN

Jim’s Drive-In, Lewisburg Fried green tomato sandwiches are served alongside fresh blueberry milkshakes and the burgers of childhood dreams at Jim’s Drive-In. This Lewisburg favorite has been a meeting place for families, kids, and college students over the decades. Jim’s is best known for its original recipe for English hot dogs with homemade chili and slaw, pulled pork barbecue sandwiches, homemade French fries, more than a dozen varieties of milkshakes, and a ranch burger developed in the early 1970s. Jim’s is open Monday, Tuesday, and Saturday from 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., on Wednesday from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and on Thursday and Friday 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Route 60 West, half-mile outside Lewisburg; 304.645.2590

West Virginia has other drive-in restaurants for you to check out, too. More options include:

Lynn’s Drive-In, Bluewell Lynn’s Drive-In on Route 52 in Bluewell began serving up homemade hot dogs and chili in 1950. Current owner Buck Lucado says he remembers visiting the restaurant with his mother and father when he was young. Thirty-five years ago Buck and his wife Bernice purchased the drive-in and they’ve been providing curb-side service ever since. The menu has expanded over the years and locals keep coming back to try each addition. Lynn’s is open from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Sunday. 3705 Coal Heritage Road, Bluewell; 304.589.6279

Pinnacle Drive-Inn Pinnacle Avenue and Route 16, Pineville; 304.732.7785 Sterling Drive-In 788 Stewart Street, Welch; 304.436.3271 Biggie’s 505 North Pike Street, Grafton; 304.265.2295

Morrison’s Drive-Inn, Logan Order a couple of hot dogs and some onion rings when you visit Morrison’s Drive-Inn in Logan. Morrison’s has been serving up homemade comfort food for 60 years. Customers recommend the hot dogs with “everything”—chili, slaw, onion, and mustard—and the fried chicken. Morrison’s was opened in 1947 by John Morrison. Current owner Jay Mayhorn’s grandfather began working at Morrison’s in 1948 and later became the sole owner. “We pride ourselves on keeping things exactly how they have been for years, and hopefully will continue to be for years to come,” Mayhorn says. Morrison’s is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. 126 Stollings Avenue, Logan; 304.752.9872

Midway West 445 6th Avenue West, Huntington; 304.697.3644 Tunnel Drive-In 1899 West 3rd Avenue, Williamson; 304.235.1787 Stewarts Original Hot Dogs 2445 Fifth Avenue, Huntington; 304.529.3647 1025 Oak Street, Kenova; 304.453.3647; stewartshotdogs.com

The West Virginia Hot Dog ORDER A HOT DOG “with everything” in the southern half of the state and chances are you’ll receive the same thing: a wiener in a soft steamed bun topped with chili, coleslaw, onions, and mustard. The chili contains no beans and carries a little bit of heat. The coleslaw is creamy and the onions are diced small. The mustard is standard American yellow, and forget about ketchup. Order a hot dog with everything in other parts of the state and it might look

NIKKI BOWMAN

MORRISON’S DRIVE-INN Logan

HANK’S DELI Fairmont

a little different. There will still be mustard and onions, but the chili is called “sauce” and can be much spicier than what is found in the southern counties. And farther north, slaw also becomes optional. Devotees love a spirited debate on the “correct” way to prepare a true West Virginia hot dog. The folks at the West Virginia Hot Dog Blog (wvhotdogblog. blogspot.com) are devoted to finding the best dogs in the state. Here is founder Stanton Means’ top five list:

TOM’S CARRY OUT Oak Hill

SKEENIES Sissonville

HAUGHT DIGGITY DOGZ Morgantown

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Destination Dining

Chef Urbanic of CafĂŠ Cimino creates delicious dishes from locally sourced food.

CARLA WITT FORD

Some of the stateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best restaurants are a little out of the way, but the food is always worth the trip.

rom fusion to slow food, seasonal to white tablecloth, West Virginia has something to offer foodies of all stripes—although you might have to drive a little bit. We’ve rounded up just a handful of restaurants, cafés, and pubs in quaint villages and bustling towns across the state to whet your appetite. If you don’t stop for a bite, or more, during your travels, you’re missing out.

linguine with artichoke hearts, hot Italian sausage, and roasted red peppers. Sunday brunch is a local favorite at The Press Room from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., but don’t stop for a bite on Tuesdays—they’ll be closed. 129 West German Street, Shepherdstown; 304.876.8777

Northern Panhandle Wheeling is a city with history. As the site of the Wheeling Convention that sparked the state’s separation from Confederate Virginia, as well as state’s first capital, it’s the Eastern Panhandle The Eastern Panhandle is a contrasting birthplace of West Virginia. landscape of long, narrow mountain ridges that tumble into If you’re looking for a true West Virginia institution, look no flat-bottom valleys dotted with historic towns. further than Wheeling’s Ye Olde Alpha, a local favorite for more Stuck fast to the north side of Cacapon Mountain in Berkeley than 70 years on Carmel Road. Don’t be deterred by the heads on Springs, Panorama at the Peak is a restaurant boasting a 180-degree the wall—deer, moose, bear, boar—there’s a reason this sports bar/ view of pastoral valleys and hills across three states. It’s a sight restaurant has kept a lively local clientele happy for decades. And it National Geographic called “one of the five best in the east.” isn’t because of the funky décor. Constructed in 1929 of locally harvested timber and stone, the The menu is a unique mixture of Mexican and Greek flavors, with building’s interior has fanciful décor and an “Itty Bitty Gift Shop” of a few others tossed in, paired with good old American favorites like local arts and crafts. sweet potato fries and house-made cheesecake. Panorama’s seasonal dishes are shaped by the harvests of farms and Most of what comes out of the kitchen is made from scratch, from local producers from across the region. From French onion soup made the homemade salsa—served with chips on every table—to the wing with caramelized organic onions in a rich beef and red wine stock and sauce. If you’re hungry for the best pub fare around, with a twist, try topped with melted Provolone cheese to Turkey croquettes made with the Greek wings or a duck burger, served with bourbon BBQ , Swiss heritage-breed turkey served over local, apple-cranberry compote, this cheese, and candied bacon on a grilled brioche bun. 50 Carmel Road, menu offers a taste of Appalachia like no other. Wheeling; 304.242.1090; yeoldealpha.com If you’re looking to visit this diner-on-top-of-the-world, don’t trust your GPS. Visit the website for directions. 3299 Cacapon Road, Potomac Highlands This is a landscape of awe-inspiring Berkeley Springs; 304.258.0050; panoramaatthepeak.com monoliths, twisting whitewater rivers, miles of protected forests, On Warren Street, also in Berkeley Springs, Lot 12 Public House outdoor recreation of every kind, and quaint mountain towns bursting offers an innovative menu with a white-tablecloth experience. Each with charm and—you guessed it—delicious food. dish, served in a gracefully decorated, century-old home perfect for a If a secluded getaway with home-cooked meals is what you’re after, romantic meal, is a study in passion. Northfork Mountain Inn should be your destination. This bed and Try a classic like toasted gnocchi with sautéed mushrooms or breakfast/restaurant is beautiful inside and out. From the spectacular something a little different, like gluten-free risotto cakes with roasted views—best experienced from the wide second-story porch—to the butternut squash, mascarpone, a spiced cider reduction, and apple cozy rooms, suites, and getaway cabin. relish. If you’re looking for a popular dish, the crisp roasted duck Dinners are by reservation only, but the experience is worth the with rosemary potato cake, pear chutney, and bourbon pan juices extra planning. Depending on the season and what’s freshest and is the way to go. But don’t leave without sampling dessert. A Nutty most local, you might find soups made with tender spring ramps, the Irishman Creme Brulee will hit the spot. Pair it with a specialty chef ’s special Southwestern pork green chili, wild-caught salmon coffee like the Montego Bay, made with dark rum and Kahlúa with Thai-chili sauce, pork roast with shiitake mushroom and topped with whipped cream. 117 Warren Street, Berkeley Springs; Marsala sauce, or something completely new. 304.258.6264; lot12.com The chef is also a trained sommelier, so meals are often paired An hour from Berkeley Springs, Shepherdstown in Jefferson with a selection of wines from small, family-held producers. But one County is one of West Virginia’s oldest and most vibrant communiof the most popular items on menus past is also one of the most West ties, chartered in 1762. Home of Shepherd University, this eclectic Virginian: an award-winning dish featuring one of state’s favorite college town also has some of the state’s best dining, including The fish, the golden trout, flavored with ramps and local wines. 235 Press Room on West German Street. Canyon View Lane, Cabins; 304.257.1108; northforkmtninn.com In this historic red brick building, you’ll find a lighter style of In Elkins lush trees line quiet streets, white fog drapes valleys cooking with a Mediterranean flare. For starters, order the mushand riverbanks, downtown businesses dress their window boxes and rooms, an appetizer stuffed with hot Italian sausage, or the grilled displays for every season, and historic passenger trains chug through calamari served with sweet red pepper, butter, lemon, and garlic. the restored depot every day. It’s small-town America at its finest. If you’re in the mood for something hearty, try the London broil, But step into one unassuming little restaurant on Kerens Avenue, which is a flank steak cooked to order with sautéed mushrooms, or the El Gran Sabor, and get ready to be transported into the heart of gotowv.com 39

Real. MOUNTAIN FLAVOR

Mountain Lakes It doesn’t get more fresh and local than Fish Hawk Acres in Upshur County, a region of thick forests and shimmering lakes. Co-owned by Chef Dale Hawkins, this 28-acre farm about 14 miles from Buckhannon is steeped in both the farm-to-table movement and the agrotourism market. Considered a collection of farms, Fish Hawk is actually a group of local producers who have aggregated their goods under one brand. Fish Hawk products appear at farmers markets and stores around the state and in their newly opened Fish Hawk Market in Buckhannon. 5 West Main Street, Buckhannon; 304.473.7741 Hawkins’ specialty is creating seamless meals that marry global foods, local ingredients, and a regional interpretation. He calls it “New Appalachian Fare.” This translates into fun combinations like white bean bruschetta paired with apple cider mojitos or rustica semolina and stuffed wax peppers with Italian sausage. From meats to cheeses to herbs, these local ingredients also end up as part of one of the most popular culinary series in the state: Fish Hawk Acres Farm Dinners, held the second Thursday of every month from June to September. Interested parties must email the farm directly to reserve a seat, but a trip to Fish Hawk is a mini-vacation in itself, so it’s worth planning ahead. Guests at the farm eat a gourmet meal of fresh, local ingredients prepared by Dale himself, get a private tour of the grounds, and enjoy live entertainment. 1 Fish Hawk Drive, Rock Cave; 304.704.2535; fishhawkacres@gmail.com Lot 12 Public House Overlooking the meandering Elk River in Berkeley Springs offers an innovative in Sutton, Café Cimino Country Inn is menu with a the 100-year-old P.J. Berry Estate turned white-tablecloth full-service country inn and restaurant. If you experience. 40 explore • 2016

come to stay the night, or longer, you’ll have four guest rooms in the historic main house, four guest rooms in the carriage house, and two suites in the brick cottage behind the main house to choose from. The restaurant is on the first floor of this renovated Colonial Revival mansion. There, guests enjoy award-winning Chef Tim Urbanic’s southern Italian and Mediterranean cuisine made with many farm-raised and locally grown ingredients, from creamy mushroom soup to shrimp Gorgonzola. Pair your meal with the right libation chosen from the restaurant’s extensive wine list. Or, stop by Cimino’s Little Dishes, a 35-seat quaint bistro bar tucked behind the main house, and enjoy a drink, the occasional piano player or ballad singer, and tapas riverside. The restaurant is open to the public 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. But if you decide to stay the night at the inn, you’re in for a treat— a gourmet breakfast prepared by Chef Urbanic featuring pastries, fresh-made frittatas, gourmet coffee, and more. 616 Main Street, Sutton; 304.765.2913; cafeciminocountryinn.com Greenbrier Valley For such a small town, Lewisburg has an unrivaled selection of excellent restaurants. There’s always a crowd at Food & Friends, where the steaks and seafood were voted “Best Of ” by the Food Network. Check out the Stardust Café, which offers

NIKKI BOWMAN; CARLA WITT FORD

tropical Venezuela. Even the smell will stop you in your tracks— spices, fresh herbs, and sweet corn. If you’re unfamiliar with Venezuelan fare, educate yourself with light flatbread arepas stuffed with savory meats and cheeses or crispy empanadas bursting with choice fillings. Or go for the most popular item on the menu, the cachapas, fluffy sweet pancakes made with ground corn folded over a generous helping of melted cheese and meat and served with Latin rice, black beans, and soup or salad. Feeling adventurous? Try the crispy fried plantains, called tostonés, or opt for creamy sweet flan, a dessert made of milk, eggs, and sugar often topped with a caramel sauce. This family-owned restaurant serves up not only creative cuisine but also coffee and free live music on Wednesdays and Fridays and local beer on tap. 413 Kerens Avenue, Elkins; 304.614.8841; elgransabor.com

an amazing menu that uses lots of locally grown ingredients. Stella’s is a favorite among locals, as is The Livery Tavern. The French Goat is the new kid in town, serving casual French-style bistro cuisine in an elegantly decorated house right in downtown. And if all that isn’t enough, Lewisburg is home to three bakeries. The Greenbrier Valley Baking Company makes delicious pastries and breads, along with soups and sandwiches for the lunch crowd. A bakery simply called The Bakery specializes in pastries, wedding cakes, pizza, and bagels that will rival any New York deli. And for those with a serious sweet tooth, check out Cakes & Cones, an ice cream shop and bakery. A little farther south, in Hinton, The Market on Courthouse Square serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Its menu includes gourmet sandwiches and salads, as well as pizzas—be sure to try the Appalachian Pizza, topped with spinach, country salt-cured ham, blue cheese, West Virginia maple-glazed walnuts, and fresh granny smith apples. The dinner menu includes dishes like Thai curried mussels and Tobasco-brined catfish. If you need something to take back to the folks at home, the restaurant also offers a wide selection of gifts, many of them made in West Virginia. 200 Ballengee Street, Hinton; 304.466.6626; themarketwv.com

Live

THE CHARMED LIFE

From The Greenbrier resort to Lewisburg, one of America’s Coolest Small Towns, experience unique shops, farmto-table fare and seasonal festivities in West Virginia’s Greenbrier Valley! No matter what kind of getaway you’re wanting, the Greenbrier Valley has an escape that’s just right. greenbrierwv.com • 800-607-9506 Lewisburg • White Sulphur Springs • Ronceverte • Alderson • Rainelle Chef Tim Urbanic’s culinary creations have made Café Cimino Country Inn one of the most popular dining destinations in the state.

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CARLA WITT FORD

Get a taste of the state’s growing craft beer, wine, and spirits scene. OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS, the Mountain State has seen an explosion of small breweries, distilleries, and wineries with an unparalleled commitment to quality and top-notch drinks to match. These businesses can be found in almost every area of the state. Here are a few of our favorites:

Fruit of the Vine Just miles from Interstate 79 in Fairmont, Heston Farm Winery sits on a few hundred acres of rolling farmland. The winery offers both sweet and semi-sweet farm wines, as well as premium dry Chardonnay and Merlot, aged in French oak barrels. The property is also home to the Foxfire Restaurant and the Pinchgut Hollow Distillery, which specializes in making buckwheat whiskey. Jerry Deal started the Forks of Cheat Winery after a neighbor scolded him for picking her grapes. He planted vines of his own after that, and by 1989 he was making more wine than his family and friends could drink. Deal’s wife suggested he get licensed, and the next year the Morgantown winery pressed 684 gallons of wine. The facility now produces tens of thousands of gallons of red, white, and fruit wines each year, sold all across West Virginia. Jim and Debbie Lambert didn’t intend to start making wine when they planted the grapevines at their Weston home—they just liked the way the vines looked. It wasn’t long before Jim began pressing the grapes, however, and by 1992 the family had established Lambert’s Vintage Wine. The Lamberts now have nine acres of vines. They also purchase grapes from other growers, too, but still do all their own crushing. College roommates Josh Bennet and Will Lewis started Hawk Knob Hard Cider and Mead in 2014 with one goal in mind: to produce traditional American cider using only West Virginia-grown heritage and heirloom apples. They released their first bottles in

December 2015. On the apple off-season Bennet and Lewis plan to make mead, a honey wine that’s one of the oldest alcoholic beverages known to man. And true to their principles, they’re only using West Virginia-sourced honey. Phillip and Teresa Holcomb already had successful careers in woodworking and jewelry making, respectively, but decided to try their hands at another specialized craft and opened Chestnut Ridge Winery. Located inside the Chestnut Ridge Artist Colony, the winery is perched atop a hill overlooking the city of Spencer. The Holcombs now produce a series of awarding-winning white and red wines. Guests can enjoy them in the cabin-style tasting room, which features a big wraparound porch and a large deck for those wanting to enjoy the views. Brews for You If you’re passing through Wardensville, make a pit stop at Lost River Brewing Company. The brewery opened in 2011 and serves handcrafted beers—including the popular West Virginia Common, an easy-drinking, light-bodied beer with floral notes—alongside fresh seafood and other delectable dinners. You can also find its beers on tap everywhere from Morgantown to Huntington. Ann Saville was already the purveyor of one popular downtown Charleston business—the renowned Taylor Books—when she opened Charleston Brewing Company in 2013. But Saville, who was raised in England, longed to taste the beers she remembers from her motherland. Folks on this side of the pond have taken a liking to her offerings, leading the microbrewery to double in capacity since it opened. If you’re in town, try Charleston Brewing Company’s most popular beer, a West Coast-style India Pale Ale called “The Raj.” Although Thomas, hometown of Mountain State Brewing Company, is a little out of the way, this brewery isn’t difficult to find. gotowv.com 43

Real. MOUNTAIN FLAVOR

Cheers!

Many of the breweries, wineries, and distilleries in the Mountain State have facilities for touring, tasting, and events. Several also WineTree Vineyards have restaurants. North End Tavern Stone Road Vineyards

Wheeling Brewing Company Morgantown Brewing Company Forks of Cheat Winery

Screech Owl Brewing

Mountain Mazery Cascarelli's Old Country Wine

Heston Farm Winery &Distillery

Lamberts Vintage Wine

Potomac Highland Winery

Bloomery Sweetshine

West-Whitehill Winery

Batton Hollow Winery

Lost River Brewing Company

Healthberry Farm

DeFeo Winery Appalachian Distillery

Chestnut Brew Works

Chestnut Ridge Winery

Stumptown Ales

Kenco Farms Honey Wine

Fisher Ridge Winery

Blackwater Brewing Company Mountain State Brewing Company

Char eston Brewing Co at Black Sheep Burritos & Brews

Kirkwood LTS & Isaiah Morgan Distillery

Bridge Brew Works Smooth Ambler The Greenbrier Valley Brewing Company

Mountain Mama Moonshine Hatfield McCoy Moonshine

Daniel Vinyards

Hawk Knob Cider & Mead

Guests need only look for a massive grain silo to find this brewhouse, founded in 2005 by friends Brian Arnett and Willie Lehman. Inside the large wooden pub is a cozy getaway overflowing with food, brews, and friendly faces. Mountain State serves its beer in jars, and in the cold months, a custom stone fireplace keeps patrons warm. Mountain State has also opened pub locations in Morgantown and Deep Creek Lake, Maryland, although all the beer is still brewed in Thomas. Nathan Herrold was working at the West Virginia Brewing Company in Morgantown when he met Ken Linch, a regular customer and avid home brewer. A Fayetteville native, Herrold envisioned moving back to southern West Virginia to open a brewery. Linch, a Clarksburg native, was sold on the idea. They opened Bridge Brew Works in 2010 and now produce a wide variety of beers, including seasonal varieties like Kolsch-style and Barleywine brews. The hands-down favorite, however, is the Long Point Lager. Art Gallagher is a Pittsburgh native, but he’s been a tried-and-true Mountaineer since the early 1990s. He earned even more hometown cred when he opened Morgantown Brewing Company in late 2009, in the facility once occupied by the West Virginia Brewing Company. Since then Gallagher has remained committed to growing West Virginia’s craft brewing scene—Morgantown Brewing Company even provides classes for those interested in home brewing. 44 explore • 2016

Greenbrier Valley Brewing Company was born from the shared dream of retired Navy pilot Wil Laska and craft beer enthusiast David Kucera. They connected with Brian Reymiller, a brewmaster with 18 years experience, and in September 2014 the trio launched their flagship beers, Wild Trail Pale Ale and Mothman Black IPA. One of the newest microbreweries on the scene is Big Timber Brewing in Elkins. It’s the brainchild of Matt Kwasniewski, who opened the brewery and taproom in 2014 with his wife Ashley. Visitors can sample all the brewery has to offer with one of its sampler flights, which also includes the house-made root beer. You can also take Big Timber’s beer home in a six-pack or refillable growler. Davis is home to two innovative craft breweries. Blackwater Brewing Company started out its life as Brewhaus, which re-launched with a new name, atmosphere, and beer list in 2012. Owners Lincoln and Amanda Wilkins produce German, Belgian, and English-style “session beers”—brews with relatively low alcohol content, which allows imbibers to drink more. Nearby, Stumptown Ales specializes in India pale ales with strong “hop-centric” flavors that have enthusiastic fans among craft brew devotees.

ELIZABETH ROTH; CARLA WITT FORD; NIKKI BOWMAN

In Good Spirits Tennessee and Kentucky turn out some good whiskey, but West Virginians also know a thing or two about spirits. Dwayne Freeman, founder of Appalachian Distillery in Ripley, comes from a long line of moonshiners. He carries that tradition forward—albeit legally—with a state-of-the-art operation just miles off Interstate 77. Appalachian Distillery offers many different kinds of ’shine, from the 90-proof “Straight Moon” to a 70-proof cinnamon drink called “Spit Fire” and 40-proof flavors like apple pie, “orange stuff,” pawpaw, and peach. For vodka, gin, rum, bourbon, and rye whiskey, there’s award-winning Smooth Ambler Spirits outside Lewisburg in Maxwelton. This grain-to-glass distillery makes its spirits in a state-of-the-art pot and column still using the finest organic corn and wheat. Discerning drinkers will appreciate Smooth Ambler’s “single barrel” products. As the name suggests, the whiskey is aged in single barrels picked from

the distillery’s stock, offering a unique experience in each bottle. When Linda Losey took a trip to Italy and tasted the country’s fine limoncellos, she had only one question—why couldn’t somebody make the stuff in the United States? She drafted her husband, Tom Kiefer, her ex-husband and dear friend, Rob Losey, and Rob’s girlfriend, Rita, and the quartet began Bloomery Sweetshine on a 12-acre farm outside Charles Town. Now home to 40 Italian Santa Teresa lemon trees, the distillery is the first commercial grower of lemons in the Mid-Atlantic. Limoncello is still Bloomery’s flagship product, but the distillery also makes liqueurs flavored with ginger, peach, cranberry, and even chocolate. Bottles are available in West Virginia as well as in Washington, D.C., Virginia, and Tennessee. gotowv.com 45

SPICE CO. is

Best Blends

Ten coffee shops that represent the best brews in the state

probably the state’s oldest coffee shop. Founded in the mid-1880s, this Wheeling shop keeps customers coming back for its signature gourmet blends. Wheeling Coffee also offers gift boxes filled with its fresh-roasted beans. 13 Fourteenth Street, Wheeling; 800.500.0141; wheelingcoffeeco.com

MOXXEE If you head toward Charleston’s East End, a drive along Morris Street brings you to the shiny gem labeled “Moxxee,” with its signature double-goat logo, a reference to the mythical origin of coffee at the hands of a goat-herder. Inside, stainless-steel furniture gives the shop an ultra-modern feel. Moxxee offers coffees from regions across the world, detailed on the menus above the bar. If the specialty lattes aren’t enough, desserts in glass cases tempt each customer. There’s much to admire in this tiny location. 301 Morris Street, Charleston; 304.807.9338; facebook.com/ moxxeecoffee

THE BLUE

2 MOOSE CAFÉ,

located in downtown Morgantown at the corner of Spruce and Walnut streets, has been both a townie and student favorite for years. The spot hosts local and traveling musicians every Wednesday at Open Mic Nite, when beer is favored over the shop’s popular coffee drinks. Breakfast and lunch items are also favorites for downtown visitors. 248 Walnut Street, Morgantown; 304.292.8999; thebluemoosecafe.com

BARISTA’S

takes on multiple identities each day. Its primary—and original—identity is a coffee shop, but it has quickly grown into a pub and restaurant, too. The shop’s upstairs provides that coffee shop vibe throughout the day, with all of the roast-scented goodness you’d want. When the sun goes down, the buzz from the downstairs pub begins to swell. This is one of New Martinsville’s primary spots for alternative, folk, and bluegrass acts. 326 N. Main Street, New Martinsville; 304.455.5410; baristascafe-pub.com

TAYLOR

6 BOOKS If

THE WILD

5 BEAN is a

Lewisburg shop that embodies the vibe of “Coolest Small Town.” The café opened in spring 2006 and has since established itself as a primary spot to get caffeinated or grab a bite to eat. An extensive breakfast and lunch menu caters to the cravings of customers during morning and afternoon rushes. 119 E. Washington Street, Lewisburg; 304.645.3738; thewildbrew.com

you’re in Charleston, don’t forget about Taylor Books, nestled in a historic building on Capitol Street. Purchased in 1995, this spot was transformed into the popular establishment you see today, with racks of hip publications, an extensive bookstore with both new and broken-in tomes, an espresso bar, and gallery space that hosts cuting-edge artists from the region. 226 Capitol Street, Charleston; 304.342.1461; taylorbooks.com

HOT CUP

4 COFFEE

offers a vast range of espresso-based drinks, and they’re not all so common in the coffee world. Tonguein-cheek monikers like “Truffle Shuffle,” “Butterbeer,” and the subtly named “Bacon-ccinno” populate the menu. The spot also serves as a music venue and art gallery. It’s become a hotspot for the arts in Logan, giving young creatives a place of community and a place to show their work. 201 Stratton Street, Logan; 304.752.6500; facebook.com/ hotcupcoffee

THE LOST DOG

TIPTOP, located

on East Avenue in Thomas, is also a creature of both the day and night. Formerly known as HypnoCoffee in Davis, TipTop isn’t pegged down to just a few types of menu items. Espresso drinks, wine, cocktails, smoothies, and more are found here. And another taste of Thomas and the surrounding area can be found in the spot’s artwork, available for viewing or purchase. East Avenue, Thomas; 304.463.4455; facebook.com/ TipTopThomas

JOE N’ THROW

For friends split between cravings for coffee, beer, or a variety of foods, there’s Fairmont’s Joe N’ Throw Co-op. But the co-op’s diverse output doesn’t stop there. It’s also a music venue, pottery studio, and social gathering spot. Owners Bob Layne and Mike Ray unveiled Joe N’ Throw in June 2014, a merging of their respective Stone Tower Joe and West Fork Pottery businesses. Now it stands as a catch-all treasure in the Friendly City. 2 Adams Street, Fairmont; 304.816.4390; facebook.com/ joe.n.throw

10 CAFÉ, in

Shepherdstown, is as lovably funky as the town it calls “home.” Here you’ll find odd touches, like espresso shot glasses shaped like skulls. And you don’t get pushed toward just one type of coffee, according to its website: “We believe that the essence of the coffee drinking experience is grounded in the idea that no one coffee is the ‘best’ for each individual.” Certainly, this isn’t a spot devoid of personality. For travelers, this is a primary destination for coffee in the Eastern Panhandle. 134 East German Street, Shepherdstown; 304.876.0871; lostdogcoffee.com

ELIZABETH ROTH

WHEELING

1 COFFEE &

LUCK

MOUNTAINEER CASINO, RACETRACK & RESORT

Go ahead and try your luck—no matter how the cards are dealt, gaming in West Virginia won’t leave you empty-handed.

Hooves pound down the front stretch at Mountaineer Casino, Racetrack & Resort.

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Real. LUCK

And They’re Off ... HOME TO WEST VIRGINIA’S OLDEST horse racing venue, the Hollywood Casino at Charles Town Races is a renowned Mountain State destination that offers a Vegas-themed gaming atmosphere with 1930s art deco flair. Located outside the city limits of Charles Town and near the colonial town of Harpers Ferry, this 150-room Jefferson County resort also provides a year-round getaway not far from many other famous West Virginia attractions in the upper Shenandoah Valley. In addition to racing and games, Hollywood Casino has several restaurants, including a buffet, sports bar, the Wine Spectator Award-winning Final Cut Steakhouse, and 9 Dragons, which offers Hong Kong cuisine and sushi. It also has a 1,200-seat music and comedy venue that has been headlined by artists like Trace Adkins, Sinbad, and Chicago’s Peter Cetera. Hollywood Casino also has a hotel with luxury rooms overlooking the racetrack. When guests step in through its grand front doors, they’re sure to be treated to a world-class experience. “It’s a spectacular entrance,” says Christine Parker, advertising and public relations manager for Hollywood Casino. “Many people say they don’t expect something like this to be in the panhandle of West Virginia.” Returning guests tell Hollywood Casino staff their facilities are some of the most beautiful they’ve visited. “And nothing rivals it,” Parker says. While the scenery of the neighboring Blue Ridge Mountains and Hollywood Casino’s activities are sure to wow visitors, Parker says top-notch customer service is what brings people back. “Everybody mentions our authentic and friendly staff in reviews,” she says. “They feel welcomed because we remember their names, which makes us special and makes it memorable for our guests.” Hollywood Casino has a long history as a luxury resort. With roots in horse racing, Hollywood Casino was a thoroughbred track long before it was an upscale destination. Built in 1933 by Albert and Joseph Boyle, the track was first known as Charles Town Races. Opening shortly after the state Legislature legalized racing and betting, it was West Virginia’s first horse racing venue and, at the 48 explore • 2016

time, was the only track in the country to operate all year. Upon opening the track had 22 buildings, 12 stables, a clubhouse, 44 betting windows, a 3,000-seat grandstand, and a restaurant. After struggling to bring in enough money during the first two years of business, the Boyles decided to promote winter races to attract bettors from nearby cities, many of whom rode daily trains from as far as Baltimore and Washington, D.C. By extending the racing season, the Boyles ensured the track would be successful, which it was for the next 20 years. Competing race tracks opening up across town and in neighboring states made the next several decades difficult for the racetrack, but prompted growth that helped the track become what it is today. The casino, resort, and track added video lottery machines in 1996, and now have nearly 3,000 machines, as well as 100 table games. And while video lottery and table games like blackjack, roulette, and poker are very popular with guests, Hollywood is still a

HOLLYWOOD CASINO

See thundering thoroughbreds at Hollywood Casino at Charles Town Races.

NEARBY TRY THIS

NIKKI BOWMAN

9 Dragons very active race track. Every year it hosts the $1.5 million Charles Town Classic and the West Virginia Breeder’s Classic, which was created by NFL Hall of Famer and West Virginia native Sam Huff. Both races are called by Larry Collmus, the voice of the Breeder’s Cup World Championship. The Hollywood Casino at Charles Town remains one of the busiest thoroughbred courses in the country with more than 200 races typically scheduled each year. And the races aren’t just for bettors. Many of Hollywood Casino’s attractions are 21 and older, but the track is open to families. “You don’t have to bet on the horses,” Parker says. “You can bring your family for an outing, get dinner, and watch the races.” 750 Hollywood Drive, Charles Town; 800.795.7001; hollywoodcasinocharlestown.com

TRAVEL TIMES

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 4 hrs, 40 mins Charlotte 5 hrs, 50 mins Columbus 5 hrs, 30 mins Pittsburgh 3 hrs, 10 mins Washington, DC 1 hr, 20 mins Toronto, Canada 7 hrs, 30 mins

The Hollywood Casino at Charles Town Races is home to more than slots and horses. For some of the best Asian cuisine this side of the Pacific, 9 Dragons has made a name for itself with its fresh sushi and creative Hong Kong-style cuisine. You can’t go wrong with the restaurant’s namesake roll—eel, tuna, salmon, yellowtail, cucumber, and avocado are cleverly rolled into a dragon—or the popular Hawaiian Roll, tempura shrimp and crab wrapped in soy and topped with a special house sauce. If sushi isn’t your thing try perennial favorite Peking Duck or choose from one of the several chef specialty noodle dishes, like Singapore Rice Noodles, a combination of shrimp, pork, curry, peppers, and onions in a spicy hot chili sauce. The ambiance is as exotic as the food—not what you’d expect to find in a casino—and the wait staff is exceptional. 9 Dragons definitely isn’t a gamble. 750 Hollywood Drive, Charles Town; 800.795.7001; hollywoodcasinocharlestown.com

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Real. LUCK

Slot machines, table games, and racing draw visitors to Northern Panhandle casinos.

IT MAY BE THOUSANDS of miles from the tropics, but Wheeling Island Hotel-CasinoRacetrack is West Virginia’s premiere island getaway. Located on an island between the Ohio River towns of Wheeling and Bridgeport, this 151-room resort with its own waterfall is a Northern Panhandle hotspot for racing enthusiasts and bettors alike. With more than 2 million visitors each year, Wheeling Island is one of the Mountain State’s largest tourist attractions. The tropical-themed resort is similar to other island-inspired casinos, like the Treasure Island resort in Las Vegas. With 24 different table games, TRAVEL TIMES including blackjack and roulette, a nine-table poker room, and nearly 2,000 slot machines, Wheeling Island has something for every Yeager Airport Charleston, WV bettor. In July 2015, the casino received seven 2 hrs, 40 mins first-place “Best of Gaming” awards from a Charlotte reader’s poll in Casino Player Magazine. 6 hrs, 30 mins The Ohio County resort, however, wasn’t Columbus always a gaming paradise. The century-old 1 hr, 50 mins Wheeling Island originally was created in the Pittsburgh 1 hour late 1800s to be a thoroughbred horse and harness racing track. In 1976, the track made the Washington, DC 4 hrs, 30 mins switch to another kind of animal racing that Toronto, Canada was growing in popularity: greyhound racing. 5 hrs, 40 mins There are now around 100 greyhound races each week. Horse racing is still available in the form of simulcast viewing and betting, which can be viewed daily at noon in the resort’s simulcast center, a venue equipped with walls of big-screen televisions. If racing isn’t your thing, Wheeling Island also offers a variety of slot machines and table games. As the casino has grown, so have its offerings to visitors: Wheeling Island now has a full-service hotel that houses a banquet center, fine-dining and buffet-style restaurants, gift shops, and other amenities. 50 explore • 2016

MOUNTAINEER CASINO, RACETRACK & RESORT

Game On

If the award-winning games and atmosphere at Wheeling Island aren’t enough to keep people coming back, the friendly staff certainly is. “We’re very much like the state of West Virginia,” says Kim Florence, senior director of marketing for Wheeling Island. “We focus on our people.” Wheeling Island’s down-to-Earth staff makes the casino and resort stand above the competition. “The people here—they’re what makes us unique,” she says. 1 S. Stone Street, Wheeling; 304.232.5050; wheelingisland.com A little north of Wheeling is Mountaineer Casino, Racetrack & Resort. This award-winning facility sits quietly on 77 acres of wooded hillside in the scenic Northern Panhandle town of New Cumberland. With a 360-room hotel, casino, restaurants, an 18-hole golf course, fitness center,

racetracks, and a 5,100-seat theater and convention center, the upscale resort is one of the premier tourist destinations in West Virginia. Mountaineer offers table games like blackjack, poker, and roulette and 3,200 video lottery machines, along with thoroughbred racing. The decades-old racetrack benefits from a national spotlight brought by its signature event, the $750,000-purse West Virginia Derby. The Mountaineer has hosted the Grade II race since 1963. It has significantly grown in the past decade, both in recognition and purse totals. The August race attracts some of the country’s top

horses, like Madefromlucky, a 3-year-old colt who won the 2015 West Virginia Derby for Cheyenne Stables. The Mountaineer’s rich history goes back to when it first opened as a thoroughbred race track in 1951. The track was built by Charles Town Races co-founder Albert Boyle, who chose to locate the grandstand, paddock, and clubhouse on a scenic spot on the Ohio River. Many of the resort’s facilities, including the still-standing grandstand, track, and paddock, were added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2002. The original grandstand, paddock, and one-mile oval dirt track still sit From table games at the center of the Mountaineer’s thriving, upscale resort. and slot machines The Mountaineer Casino, Racetrack, and Resort has to live racing and fine dining, there’s races five nights a week, from March to December. Races lots to keep visitors start at 7 p.m. 1420 Mountaineer Circle, New Cumberland; entertained at the 304.387.8000; moreatmountaineer.com Northern Panhandle’s casinos.

Centre of it All

WHEELING ISLAND HOTEL-CASINO-RACETRACK

LOCATED RIGHT IN THE CENTER of downtown

Wheeling, the Centre Market has served as the heart of this community for more than 150 years. Originally built as an open-air market, this cast iron structure has in recent years become a hotbed for locally owned businesses, with shops and restaurants popping up both inside and around the market. If you stop by to visit, set aside plenty of time to wander around. The market is home to several antique stores, and Wood-N-Stiches carries locally made gifts like benches, birdhouses, shelves, and seasonal items. Artworks Around Town is a great place to see paintings, jewelry, and pottery created by regional artists. You can take some of it home, too, if you’d like. SMART Centre Market carries all kinds of educational toys, books, and games sure to delight teachers, parents, and children alike. Paradox Books is the oldest used bookstore

NEARBY SHOP

in the state—opened 40 years ago by aspiring playwright Tom Stobart—and the store is as eclectic as its purveyor, with no set hours and loosely organized sections. After all that shopping, it won’t be long before your stomach starts rumbling. There’s no need to leave, though, as the Centre Market has loads of dining options to please everyone in your party. Later Alligator was recently named one of the state’s “101 Unique Places to Dine in West Virginia,” for its eclectic menu of salads and sandwiches, as well as its extensive crepe menu with both savory and sweet options. Michael’s Beef House has been creating Reubens, ham and cheese, and hot pastrami sandwiches since 1968. Coleman’s Fish Market is a great place to buy fresh fish, but is also renowned for its “famous” fish sandwich, which features big pieces of fried fish served on thick slices of white bread.

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Raising the Stakes WHEN BUSINESSMAN JIM JUSTICE bought The Greenbrier in 2009, he promised to restore the historic hotel’s luster by building a world-class casino at America’s Resort. On July 2, 2010, he made good on that promise by unveiling the Casino Club, an $80 billion, 100,000-square-foot entertainment complex underneath The Greenbrier’s front lawn. Justice has described the space as Monte Carlo meets Gone with the Wind with a little James Bond thrown in. As guests step into the casino and descend the elegant staircase, they enter a glamorous and sophisticated rendition of a Hollywood movie set. It isn’t Vegas. It isn’t Atlantic City. It’s The Greenbrier. The casino is only open to overnight resort guests as well as members of The Greenbrier Sporting Club and The Greenbrier Golf and Tennis Club. Men are required to wear jackets. Soft jazz plays in the background. Posh lounge areas invite conversation. There are tables for blackjack, roulette, craps, three-card poker, Texas Hold ’Em, and baccarat—Bond’s game of choice—as well as a private room dubbed The Greenbrier Royale for high rollers. At 10 p.m. each night, the lights flicker, drawing attention to the marble staircase and the oversized seashell fountain as performers, 52 explore • 2016

trained by two New York-based choreographers, dance to “The Greenbrier Waltz,” a specially commissioned composition by Greenbrier County native Tony Nalker. Costumed cocktail waitresses promenade down the staircase and provide flutes of champagne to guests. The toast is the same every night: “To good health, good friends, and good fortune.” For all the glitz and glamor, it is easy to forget the Casino Club hasn’t always been part of The Greenbrier. But that would ignore the Herculean effort involved in building this marvel. Not wanting to disturb the resort’s historic campus, Justice decided to build the casino underground. It was a decision in keeping with The Greenbrier’s history. In the 1950s, President Eisenhower built a sophisticated network of secret bunkers beneath The Greenbrier to protect the U.S. Congress in the event of a nuclear attack. That project took three years to complete. The casino was finished in just nine months. Within a year, a 35-foot-deep hole in The Greenbrier’s front lawn became a 102,000-square-foot underground entertainment complex. Crews also built a mezzanine to connect lobby and casino. Dubbed

THE GREENBRIER

A Monte Carlo-style casino brings new energy and glamour to the historic elegance of The Greenbrier.

A Home for the Arts TRAVEL TIMES

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 1 hr, 50 mins Charlotte 3 hrs, 50 mins Columbus 4 hrs, 20 mins Pittsburgh 4 hrs, 10 mins Washington, DC 3 hrs, 50 mins

NIKKI BOWMAN

Toronto, Canada 8 hrs, 50 mins

Greenbrier Avenue, the area features trendy boutiques and restaurants. Justice hired interior designer Carleton Varney to decorate the casino. Varney is the protege of Dorothy Draper, the world-renowned interior designer who restored The Greenbrier after it served as a military hospital in World War II. Varney was charged with making the transition from the hotel to the casino seamless—designing the space as Draper would have. He filled the space with references to her favorite patterns and motifs, like the oversized seashell-shaped fountain between the twin curving staircases. The Greenbrier’s Casino Club opened with a red carpet premiere—unprecedented in West Virginia—featuring celebrities, politicians, and sports icons, including Jennifer Garner, Ben Affleck, Jessica Simpson, Brooke Shields, Lionel Richie, Charles Barkley, Shaquille O’Neal, Jane Seymour, Debbie Reynolds, Raquel Welch, Tom Watson, and Jack Nicklaus, to name a few. The club continues to draw big names today, but also gives regular folks the chance to spend a night as a silver screen starlet or a suave secret agent. 300 West Main Street, White Sulphur Springs; 855.453.4858; greenbrier.com

IT ISN’T HARD TO BELIEVE this cozy little string of white brick cottages overlooking the rolling grounds at The Greenbrier have inspired an artist or two. Take a walk across one of their wide wooden porches and chances are you’ll bump into a painter trying to capture the early light or a jeweler comparing a stone to the perfect blue sky. “We want to keep a human face on what we’re doing. That’s the experience we can offer that’s different,” says Susan Chapman Thomas, goldsmith and co-owner of Virtu, an independent business offering handmade jewelry and unique works of glass at The Art Colony Shops at The Greenbrier. Thomas, a jeweler, and her husband, glassblower Alex Brand, were inspired to open a shop here not only for its picturesque location near The Greenbrier’s famous Springhouse, but for the experience of working alongside some of the area’s most imaginative minds. Although the hardworking couple has only been at the colony for a few years, they have quickly become a fixture. Thomas and Brand’s story is not unusual among the colony. Maybe it’s the healing waters or the dramatic setting, but artists have

NEARBY MUST SEE

been finding fertile soil for their imaginations here for more than 80 years. More commonly known as Alabama Row, the cottages once played host to some of the 19th century’s most elite families. Hailed as one of the most desirable summer resorts in the south, The Greenbrier’s Alabama Row was among the finest 19th century accommodations, even with its communal porches and small cottages. The cottages underwent many transformations—falling into disrepair and being restored in the early 20th century, becoming an art colony for the first time briefly in the 1930s, and being taken over as staff housing when the resort became an army hospital during WWII. After the resort changed hands again, British sculptor Gladys Tuke finally reopened the art colony, and this time the idea bore fruit. Today, the colony offers visitors an array of fine arts and crafts, live demonstrations, and classes. Seven shops now call the colony home, each offering unique items often made on-site. 300 West Main Street, White Sulphur Springs; 855.453.4858; greenbrier.com

Real. LUCK

Let the Good Times Roll THE MARDI GRAS CASINO defies its surroundings. opt for a tournament in the poker room—it’s outfitted TRAVEL TIMES The resort is tucked away among West Virginia’s idyllic with plush, comfortable seating and boasts food and drink landscapes, just a short drive from downtown Charleston, service at the table, so there’s no reason to leave before your Yeager Airport but as soon as you step inside you’re in another world. The luck runs out. Charleston, WV casino is a sprawling 90,000 square feet, decked out in true Or, try your luck at the racetrack. Just place your bet, 20 mins Mardi Gras style. Showgirls are covered in beads, sequins, order some food and drinks, then sit back and watch live as Charlotte 4 hrs, 30 mins and feathers. The smell of fresh beignets hangs thick in the the greyhounds tear around the track. Greyhound racing Columbus air. A thousand slot machines glint and ding. Patrons crowd can be intimidating to novices—bettors can be overheard 2 hrs, 30 mins around roulette tables, crossing their fingers as they watch using jargon like “quiniela,” “superfecta,” “boxing,” and Pittsburgh the ball bounce and spin along the wheel, teasing them as “wheeling” as they place their wagers—but the Mardi 3 hrs, 30 mins the fates decide on a number. Players lean over the blackjack Gras tries to be inclusive. Staff are happy to help you get Washington, DC table, sipping drinks and deciding on their next plays. In the basics down, so you can feel confident placing your bet 5 hrs, 30 mins the next room, bettors gather to watch the greyhound races, alongside the oldest pro. Toronto, Canada whooping and rooting for their chosen dogs. The newest addition to Mardi Gras is Louie’s, a lounge 8 hours Mardi Gras is a feast day, a time for partying, dancing, just off the main floor complete with a full bar and a costumes, rich foods, and general mischief before the lenten season packed entertainment schedule. There’s everything from karaoke to descends and pious austerity ensues. At the Mardi Gras Casino & stand-up comedy to music in every style, plus a dance floor just in Resort, that sober, self-denying season never comes—the party here front of the stage. The bar is also a smorgasbord of options—there’s lasts all year long. And the party is always on. Really—always. This everything from craft beer to fine wine to cocktails. place is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. When it’s time to wind down, you only need to walk a few feet The casino includes more than 1,200 slot machines of more than from the casino to the resort, where you can unwind with a glass of 70 varieties, starting with penny slots and working up to five-dollar wine at the in-house Jackson Square Bar, take a dip in the hot tub machines. There are also more than 30 table games, including or a swim in the pool, and get a good night’s rest. In the morning blackjack, craps, roulette, and several types of poker, including that you will wake up so refreshed you’ll be ready to do it all over again. old classic, Texas Hold ’Em. You can stop by for a quick game, or 1 Greyhound Drive, Cross Lanes; 304.776.1000; mardigrascasinowv.com 54 explore • 2016

MARDI GRAS CASINO & RESORT

The Mardi Gras Casino & Resort is a nonstop party.

ARTISTRY

AMPD PHOTOGRAPHY

Surrounded with such natural beauty and deep folk traditions, West Virginia provides artists of all kinds with inspiration to spare.

Each June, Charleston hosts a citywide arts and culture celebration known as FestivALL.

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Wonderful Wheeling

LOTS OF PEOPLE KNOW the Grand Ole Opry of Nashville, Tennessee as the oldest continuously operating country music radio program, but not many people realize Wheeling, West Virginia is home to the second-oldest country show in the country. The Wheeling Jamboree (944 Main Street, Wheeling; 304.907.0306; wheelingjamboree.org)—formerly known as the Original WWVA Jamboree and, later, Jamboree USA—was one of the many “barn dance” shows that dominated the airwaves during the “hillbilly music” craze of the early 20th century. But unlike most of those shows, it has stood the test of time thanks to some dedicated supporters. The show premiered in 1933 and hosted many of country music’s first generation of stars. More recently, best-selling country artist Brad Paisley, who grew up in nearby Glen Dale, got his start on the Jamboree stage, playing in the house band when he was just a teenager. 56 explore • 2016

The Jamboree still holds regular live Saturday night broadcasts at Jamboree Hall in Wheeling. You can hear the Jamboree through live Internet streaming at wheelingjamboree.org and wwovfm.com. Wheeling’s historic Capitol Theatre (1015 Main Street, Wheeling; 304.214.7007; capitoltheatrewheeling.org) opened in 1928 at a cost of $1 million. A copper marquee adorned the outside of the building. Inside, there were two box offices and a grand 3,000-seat auditorium with two balconies. The venue’s luster faded over the decades, but in 2009, the Wheeling Convention and Visitors Bureau purchased the Capitol with the aim of restoring it to its former glory. The bureau is doing that work piece by piece as money is available and has already completed major projects on the exterior and interior of the Capitol. In the meantime, the space continues to host big-time acts, touring productions of popular Broadway shows, and the

REBECCA KIGER FOTOGRAFIA

Get to know West Virginia’s original capital city.

Oglebay

NEARBY STAY

A name you’ll hear often in Wheeling, Oglebay is attached to museums, lodging, dining, and recreation inside and outside the city. SITUATED JUST OUTSIDE

Wheeling’s bustling downtown, Oglebay Park is the lush, picturesque home of many of the area’s prime attractions. In 1926, Colonel Earl W. Oglebay willed his 1,700-acre summer estate to the city of Wheeling and the area became known as Oglebay Park, home to museums, gardens, a theater, a resort and conference center, and more. Check out The Mansion Museum, which

was once Colonel Oglebay’s summer estate. The museum showcases an impressive collection of antiques as well as the comprehensive history of the Oglebay family and the city of Wheeling. Don’t forget to visit the 1900s-style Bissonnette Gardens, the greenhouse at the Wheeling Civic Garden Center, and The Glass Museum, which houses the largest piece of cut glass in the world. Families will also

TRAVEL TIMES

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 2 hrs, 50 mins Charlotte 6 hrs, 30 mins Columbus 2 hours Pittsburgh 1 hour Washington, DC 4 hrs, 20 mins

Wheeling Symphony Orchestra. The Wheeling Symphony Orchestra (304.232.6191; wheelingsymphony.com) holds seven concerts each season at the Capitol Theatre, including three Pops performances. The group also hosts two free concerts: a popular July Fourth celebration at Wheeling’s Heritage Port Amphitheater and a Labor Day weekend concert in Oglebay Park. Alumni from this symphony have gone on to perform with major orchestras in Chicago, Houston, and Washington, D.C. The Wheeling Symphony has also attracted its own share of world-class talent, with guest appearances by musicians like Yo-Yo Ma and Richard Stolzman. In the heart of downtown Wheeling, at the corner of Main and 14th Streets, is one of the state’s most unique repurposed industrial buildings, a place filled with history that also houses perhaps the Northern Panhandle’s most interesting place to shop: the Wheeling Artisan Center (1400 Main Street, Wheeling; 304.232.1810;

NIKKI BOWMAN

Toronto, Canada 5 hrs, 30 mins

want to tour the 30-acre Good Zoo, train exhibit, and planetarium while they’re here. The park’s Schrader Environmental Education Center, which helped land Wheeling on Backpacker Magazine’s “Best Cities to Raise an Outdoor Kid” list, offers a trail system, wildflower and butterfly gardens, hands-on exhibits, and seasonal events like maple sugaring and ongoing programs for nature lovers of all ages. All these attractions just might be too much for a day trip, and Oglebay Resort and Conference Center (265 Lodge Drive; 800.624.6988; oglebay-resort.com) has you covered. The 271-room Wilson Lodge features a 5,000-square-foot spa, fine dining, indoor and outdoor pools, Jacuzzi, and sauna. Larger groups can rent one of the resort’s 54 cottages, which include four estate houses and three eight-bedroom premium cottages.

artisancenter.com). When you first enter, be prepared to stop and stare. A stunning, 80-foot-tall atrium gives you a glimpse of the city through a large skylight, as well as an intriguing view of the many levels of the building that contains a 250-seat, acclaimed restaurant; a gift shop full of local and regional handmade goods; history exhibits; and an art gallery and event venue. While visiting the Wheeling Artisan Center, check out The Emporium, which sells arts and crafts from regional artisans, as well as West Virginia-made food products. The Loft is a 7,500-squarefoot exhibition space popular for festivals, conferences, and wedding receptions. Don’t miss the interactive “Made in Wheeling” exhibits, which tell the story of the area’s industrial heritage. For a different side of Wheeling’s culture, be sure to visit Independence Hall (1528 Market Street, Wheeling; 304.238.1300), where delegates decided West Virginia would break away from Virginia during the Civil War. The building has been painstakingly restored with a small museum detailing the origins of the Mountain State. It’s a history lesson you won’t soon forget. gotowv.com 57

Real. ARTISTRY

Gold in Those Hills ELKINS ISN’T THE KIND OF PLACE you accidentally find—you have to be looking for this Randolph County community to get there. But once you arrive, you’ll find there’s a lot of charm to this tiny college town. The Augusta Festival, presented each year by Davis & Elkins College’s Augusta Heritage Center, brings together the best fiddlers and yodelers from West Virginia as well as visitors from around the world for a month of heritage arts centered around community and friendship. The month-long celebration includes music, crafts, and dance from a slew of traditions—from Appalachian to Irish to Cajun to hip-hop. The festival is broken into five weeks, each with a theme, during which students and instructors live on the campus of Davis & Elkins College for intensive class time and workshops. Class instructors are often legends in their fields, like Joe Newberry, a musician often heard on “A Prairie Home Companion,” and four-fifths of the Nashville bluegrass band The SteelDrivers. Intimate class sizes and community spirit make the Augusta Festival one-of-a-kind, attendees say. Walking along the grassy lawns, visitors might see pockets of musicians and artists spread among the trees practicing or participating in an impromptu jam session. At night, after classes and meals are over, you can hear it. “It’s like a car radio signal picking up different stations,” Joe Newberry says. “Even though different groups are playing different tunes, there’s a flow to it. There’s an intensity. Some jam sessions are big and play like a freight train with a lot of folks. In other sessions people are playing knee-to-knee right at each other.” The five weeks are capped with a weekend festival, held in early August, with concerts, food, demonstrations, and handmade crafts. 100 Campus Drive, Elkins; 304.637.1209; augustaheritagecenter.org Another big draw in Elkins is the Gandy Dancer Theatre, which offers both dinner and entertainment. The variety show features music, dance, and comedy performed by a cast of regular performers, with a band, vocalists, and a dance troupe called The Gandy Dancers. Aside from a few performers who drive in from neighboring towns, the show is filled with local professionals, including several dancers who are still in high school. At the center of the show is Penny Merle—a nod to 58 explore • 2016

the Grand Ole Opry’s iconic Minnie Pearl—and TRAVEL TIMES each performance ends with an appearance by an impressionist performing as a legendary Yeager Airport musical artist like Elvis, Garth Brooks, or Johnny Charleston, WV Cash. 59 Beverly Pike, Elkins; 304.636.4935; 2 hrs, 10 mins gandydancertheatre.com Charlotte Elkins is also home to a large community of 5 hrs, 30 mins visual artists. The Artists at Work Gallery is Columbus 4 hours a cooperative gallery of artists and craftsmen that live in the Elkins area. From baskets, Pittsburgh 2 hrs, 40 mins prints, and textiles to jewelry, pottery, and soap, Washington, DC tourists will want to pick up a one-of-a-kind 3 hrs, 30 mins locally made product. Artist Kadra Casseday Toronto, Canada of The Blue Door Studio is one of the artists 7 hrs, 10 mins showcased at the gallery. “I’ve found that people around here truly have an appreciation for talent in art, music, and writing.” 329 Davis Avenue, Elkins; 304.637.6309; artistsatwork.us The Randolph County Community Arts Center hosts an annual concert series and hosts exhibits by local artists. There are also art classes for children, teenagers, and adults on pottery, drawing, painting, and needlecrafts. “We’re always looking for newer and more cutting-edge programs,” Executive Director Kurt Barkley says. “We fold perennial favorites back into our schedule, but we give our teachers a great deal of latitude. We’re always trying new things.” The center also regularly hosts traveling exhibits from the Smithsonian Institution, one of the world’s largest museum and research institutions with 19 museums scattered around Washington, D.C. and New York City. 1 Park Street, Elkins; 304.637.2355; randolpharts.org

CARLA WITT FORD

Elkins is a small town with a thriving arts community.

Inflation Inspiration An Elkins ceramicist brings the toy store to the art gallery.

NIKKI BOWMAN

CERAMIC ARTIST BRETT KERN’S work

The Augusta Festival is held at Davis & Elkins College. Brett Kern creates toy-like sculptures.

probably looks familiar—the smooth surface, the puckered edges, the little air valves around the back. His ceramic sculptures look just like the cheap inflatable toys that probably populated your toy box once upon a time. But be assured, Kern’s work is no child’s play. “A lot of my work I suppose you could say deals with adult-onset nostalgia,” Kern says of his art. A Pennsylvania native, he came to West Virginia University to study pottery, but got diverted to sculptural ceramics. “My direction changed and I’m happy it did,” he says. After earning his master’s degree and spending a year as an artist-in-residence at a Montana studio, Kern was invited in

2009 to build up the ceramics program at Davis & Elkins College. It was there he came up with his nostalgic, eye-fooling designs. Kern makes plaster molds then casts his sculptures from the watery clay called slip. “After a while, I pour out the liquid clay from the center, and that leaves just the dry shell,” he says. His first piece back in January 2012 was a brontosaurus. “I do know that the brontosaurus isn’t a real dinosaur,” he says, adding that he likes it as a pop culture relic. But his real excitement came with his second model, a stegosaurus. “That was the first one where I thought, ‘Man, this is pretty cool.’ I couldn’t stop hugging it.” brettkernart.com

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Real. ARTISTRY

Charming Charleston There’s always something to do in West Virginia’s capital city.

CHARLESTON IS THE CENTER of West Virginia’s government, but

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TRAVEL TIMES

Charlotte 4 hours Columbus 2 hrs, 40 mins Pittsburgh 3 hrs, 30 mins Washington, DC 5 hrs, 20 mins Toronto, Canada 7 hrs, 50 mins

NIKKI BOWMAN

it is also the heart of culture for the state. This is a city committed to creativity—and it shows up almost anywhere you look. The epicenter of culture in Charleston is the Clay Center for Arts and Sciences (1 Clay Square, Charleston; 304.561.3575; theclaycenter. org), a multimillion-dollar facility opened in 2002. The center’s main venue, the Maier Performance Hall, has played host to big-name artists like Aretha Franklin and James Taylor and is also home to the West Virginia Symphony Orchestra. The Clay Center also has the black box-style Walker Theater for more intimate performances, and its 9,000-square-foot Juliet Museum of Art boasts an impressive collection of modern art. For the kids there’s the Avampato Discovery Museum, open daily, featuring two floors and more than 12,000 square feet of hands-on science exhibits. There is also the Governor Gaston Caperton Digital Dome, which offers awe-inspiring planetarium shows and IMAX films on its giant domed screen. The Clay Center also plays host to the Charleston Light Opera Guild, which has been bringing a bit of Broadway to the Mountain State since 1949. This volunteer theater company counts country artist Kathy Mattea and Hollywood actress Jennifer Garner among its alumni. The company produces several musicals each year, so make sure to attend a show and keep an eye peeled for West Virginia’s next superstar. The Charleston Ballet (304.342.6541; thecharlestonballet.com) was formed in 1956 by director Andre Van Damme, a Belgium native who previously worked as star dancer with the Royal Opera House of Brussels. The troupe was named “Official West Virginia State Ballet” by the state Legislature in 1972 and was the first ballet to perform at the state Culture Center after it opened in 1976. The ballet—which has been under the artistic direction of Kim Pauley since Van Damme’s death in 1989—hosts several shows each year, including a very popular production of “The Nutcracker” with the West Virginia Symphony Orchestra each Christmas. For a look at West Virginia’s rich cultural traditions, check out the Vandalia Gathering (wvculture.org/vandalia), held each Memorial Day weekend on the state Capitol complex. You’ll find square dancing, traditional crafters, storytelling, and lots of food. There are baking competitions for cupcakes and pound cakes and a “Liar’s Contest,” where storytellers compete to spin the best yarn. But the main draw of Vandalia is the music. Hoards of musicians descend on the festival each year—you can find an impromptu jam session under almost any tree at the Capitol complex. Pickers also go

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NEARBY SHOP

Find something special at

TUCKED AWAY in Charleston’s South Hills neighborhood, Bridge Road Shops is full of great restaurants and high-end boutiques. Allot at least half a day to get the full experience. Yarid’s began in the early 1900s as a department store but has been transformed into a luxury boutique chain offering accessories by the biggest names in fashion. The Bridge Road location carries a stunning collection of top designer accessories including shoes by Sam Edelman, Kate Spade, and Tory Burch. There are handbags by Longchamp, Orla Kiely, Rebecca Minkoff, and Sondra Roberts, along with men’s shoes by the likes of Frye, Cole Haan, Merrell, and Sperry Topsider. Petit Jewelry Designs is a family-owned jeweler offering fine custom pieces designed specifically for your tastes. The shop also specializes in repair work, using cutting-edge techniques like laser welding to repair items that previously could not be fixed. Geraniums also carries an impressive array of designer apparel and accessories, including items by the much-beloved Lilly Pulitzer, casual wear from Tommy Bahama, and silks from Marisa Baratelli. If you’re looking for a personalized gift, the store also offers Pandora bracelets and monogrammed Heartstrings pendants. Eggplant is the ultimate gift shop, with unique accessories and houseware items. It carries a large assortment of West Virginia University items, home décor, and bath and body products and a wide variety of printable stationery and invitations perfect for engagements, weddings, baby showers, and other noteworthy occasions.

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Eggplant at Charleston’s Bridge Road Shops offers a wide variety of gifts and personalized stationery.

head-to-head in contests to determine the best guitar, banjo, fiddle, dulcimer, and mandolin player in the land. Music can be found year-round at the Capitol Complex, too, thanks to one of the state’s most treasured institutions: West Virginia Public Broadcasting’s “Mountain Stage” (mountainstage.org). If there’s a hot new band on the Americana music scene, chances are you’ll catch it on “Mountain Stage.” The show—which has hosted legendary acts including R.E.M., Phish, Dr. John, and Townes Van Zandt—is syndicated all over the country and around the world but there’s nothing like attending a live taping at the state Culture Center. The show’s amiable host, Larry Groce, helps support a comfortable atmosphere for the musicians who travel far and wide to appear on the show and keeps them coming back. “Some people don’t really know much about West Virginia, but they’ve heard about ‘Mountain Stage.’ That’s all they’ve ever heard about West Virginia. It’s a positive thing,” Groce says. After “Mountain Stage,” head over to The Empty Glass (410 Elizabeth Street, Charleston; 304.345.3914; emptyglass.com), where guests of the radio show have been known to congregate for impromptu jams. “The Glass” is famous in its own right. The club features live music every night, including Charleston’s longest-running open mic night on Mondays. It’s always a party on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights at The Empty Glass with the cream of the crop in local talent and up-and-coming touring acts. The Drive-By Truckers, the Avett Brothers, and Joss Stone have all passed through on their rise to stardom. To catch some local bands, head across town to the Boulevard Tavern (806 Kanawha Boulevard E., Charleston; 304.205.7951; theboulevardtavernwv.com). This watering hole maintains a regular schedule of bands from Charleston and surrounding cities—stop in to see hometown favorites like Qiet and The Company Stores.

NIKKI BOWMAN

Bridge Road Shops

AMPD PHOTOGRAPHY

Charleston hosts FestivALL, a celebration of arts and culture, each June.

If you’re in town on a Friday night during the summer, head to Haddad Riverfront Park along Kanawha Boulevard. The amphitheater hosts Live on the Levee, a popular weekly concert series that features local and national acts. But it’s more than just music—there are food vendors galore, a playground, and often fireworks after the music. One of the newest additions to Charleston’s music scene is WTSQ , a low-power nonprofit station located at 88.1 FM on your radio dial. This indie station broadcasts an extremely eclectic blend of programming, including world music, gospel, blues, doo-wop, vintage country, talk shows, and more, all hosted by local volunteer DJs. You can also listen to WTSQ by streaming it online at wtsq.org.

Charleston gets even more artsy for two weeks each June, when the city marks its annual FestivALL celebration (festivallcharleston. com). The 10-day festival is an ever-changing collection of concerts, theater performances, and mini-festivals like Wine & All That Jazz and Blues, Brews, & BBQ. There’s Taste-of-All, where local chefs come together to see who’s the best in town. During the annual Capitol Street Art Fair, downtown sidewalks are filled with topnotch artists selling their wares. FestivALL has become so popular that organizers have expanded the event to include a mini-festival in October dubbed FestivALL Fall, which brings another round of special events to the city. gotowv.com 63

Real. ARTISTRY The Huntington Museum of Art, left, and the Keith-Albee Theatre are landmarks of Huntington’s art scene.

TRAVEL TIMES

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 1 hour Charlotte 5 hrs, 10 mins Columbus 2 hrs, 40 mins Pittsburgh 4 hrs, 20 mins Washington, DC 6 hrs, 30 mins Toronto, Canada 8 hrs, 30 mins

64 explore • 2016

WILD, WONDERFUL WEST VIRGINIA

River City Culture

venue’s theatrical roots. Also in 2006, the theater hosted the world premiere of the film We Are Marshall, a Hollywood biopic that detailed the 1970 plane crash that killed 37 Marshall football players, 25 boosters, A survey of the Huntington arts scene. coaching staff, and others. IN HUNTINGTON, three venues represent the city’s arts scene. They The result of all of may look quite different, but they’re all equally important in defining these threads is a staple the culture in this college town and its region. of theatre, music, and touring comedic acts that remains active and evolving. The Keith-Albee of today may not be Vaudeville, but it’s THE THEATER: Keith-Albee Theatre Constructed in 1928, versatile. Just in the last few years, the theater has hosted rock legend the Keith-Albee Theatre on Fourth Avenue was built by A.B. and Boz Skaggs, the musical Mamma Mia!, and several film screenings, S.J. Hyman, and was one of the Keith-Albee-Orpheum Corporation’s all while serving as a popular wedding venue. premier venues in its east coast film and Vaudeville circuit. Famed In maintaining vibrancy on Fourth Avenue, the Keith-Albee will architect Thomas W. Lamb was brought in for the vision, with the continue to play a starring role. It may no longer be a family operaending price tag of $2 million. tion, and it may now cost a bit more than 15 cents for a fun afternoon The theater went on to a few other lives and renovations. It at the theater, but the venue continues to serve the community it has was an active movie theater up until 2006. This was around called home for nearly nine decades. 1021 4th Avenue, Huntington the time the Hyman family company, the Greater Huntington Theater Corporation, gave the building to the Marshall University THE MUSEUM: Huntington Museum of Art The HunFoundation for the Keith-Albee Performing Arts Center. The tington Museum of Art is not the type of venue that’s commonly performances from the Marshall Artists Series are a return to the found in West Virginia. When you’re a fine art museum that’s the

An Artful Restoration DOWNTOWN HUNTINGTON is in the middle

ELIZABETH ROTH

of a big makeover, as more and more new businesses move in and set up shop. One shining example is the Marshall University Visual Arts Center, which opened in 2014 in a huge space that had sat vacant for more than a decade. The 60,000-square-foot building was completed in 1902 and formerly housed the Anderson-Newcomb Co. and Stone & Thomas department stores before it was closed in 1996. The structure sat vacant for 15 years until Marshall University purchased it. Over the next few years, the university poured $13 million into the space. Working with the West Virginia State Historic Preservation Office, Marshall tried to save as many remnants of the building’s history as it could, including the original hardwood floors. The university decided to replace the original windows for the sake of energy efficiency, but worked with a window company to find window frames that closely resemble the originals.

“largest between Cincinnati, Pittsburgh, and Richmond,” as it boasts, you have to deliver. The displays range from local to international works and from historic photographs and paintings to pottery and modern art. The on-site C. Fred Edwards Conservatory is also the state’s only plant conservatory. The property is surrounded by a vast, 40-acre nature trail system, with three miles of hiking trails and handicap access on its hillside terrain. Encompassing 15,000 objects, the collections owned by the museum are also impressive. There’s a Middle Eastern gallery, a firearms gallery, galleries for decorative works, American folk art, Asian pieces, and much more. Workshops and exhibitions also give students a chance to show their work and learn in a professional-level space, creating a new generation of West Virginia artists. You can also read further than the descriptions found on museum walls by heading to the James D. Francis Art Library, stacked with books on fine and decorative arts. Other programming includes The Music at the Museum series, which hosts concerts in the Grace Rardin Doherty Auditorium. 2033 McCoy Road, Huntington; 304.529.2701; hmoa.com

NEARBY MUST SEE

“Architecture is an art just like printmaking, oil paintings, sculpture,” says Deputy State Historic Preservation Officer Susan Pierce, who worked on the project. “It’s an expression of who we are, not just today but who we were during the 19th and 20th century. It’s of value to reuse those elements when we can.” The space now houses all of Marshall’s visual arts programs—graphic design, painting, photography, printmaking, and fiber arts as well as art education and art history. “This is a really vibrant and dynamic group of people,” says Donald Van Horn, dean of Marshall’s College of Arts and Media. “You’ve got some of the most creative minds, the people who are best at thinking outside the box—they’re going to be an integral part of the downtown, and the contributions they can make to the broader community are limitless.” There is also retail and gallery space on the ground floor, which hosts exhibits from students and outside artists.

THE ROCK VENUE: V Club If the Keith-Albee and the Huntington Museum of Art represent the finer arts and the more regal side of the community, the V Club is the place where the ties come off and the lights are dimmed. The club on the corner of 6th Avenue and 8th Street has quickly become a well-established music venue in the Tri-State. It opened in 2006, and thousands of performers have now taken the stage, groups from a kaleidoscope of genres that range from rap and metal to country-swing and folk-pop. This is a place where nervous college students take their tunes to the stage for the first time, and it’s also where veteran touring performers come to see their fans in West Virginia mouth the words to their favorite songs. When a big indie name comes to town, you can bet they’ll be playing at the V Club. Nationally touring acts such as The Avett Brothers, Jason Isbell, Unknown Hinson, Electric Six, Hank 3, Clutch, and many more have all performed at the small venue. The club is also known as a great place for local bands, and if you want to explore the ground level of Huntington’s music scene, this is the place to do so. The V Club has something different going on several nights each week. Wednesdays are open mic, where anyone can take the stage, and Thursday brings the weekly #TBT dance party. But this schedule is always subject to change if a big act is passing through. 741 6th Avenue, Huntington; 304.781.0680; vclublive.com gotowv.com 65

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Music in the Mountains

Carnegie Hall in Lewisburg is one of four such theaters built by steel baron Andrew Carnegie.

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NIKKI BOWMAN

West Virginia is home to many special music venues that make for unforgettable experiences.

ELIZABETH ROTH

t’s easy enough to find entertainment when you’re in a big city. But there’s plenty to do out in West Virginia’s hills, hollows, and hamlets, too. You just have to know where to look. Here is a short roundup of some of the state’s most unique venues. The crowds in these tiny joints are mostly made up of locals, but they’re a welcoming bunch, sure to make you feel right at home. Jerry Run Summer Theater is located about halfway between Morgantown and Charleston in a rural community between Cleveland and Hacker Valley in northern Webster County. Built on a whim by purveyor Dusty Anderson, the theater usually plays host to bluegrass artists. But in late 2014 indie singer-songwriter Sam Beam—better known as Iron & Wine—made a short concert film at Jerry Run called Dreamers and Makers Are My Favorite People, earning the little theater a whole new kind of notoriety. It’s a little difficult to find, so leave a little early so you have time for a hot dog and cold pop when you arrive. 304.493.6574; reneea@mountain.net; members.citynet.net/jerryrun John Bright never set out to open a small music venue. The Purple Fiddle was like the calm after the storm when, after many big life changes, he decided to buy an old general store in the tiny town of Thomas. “The space was beautiful,” he says. The Purple Fiddle opened its doors on February 1, 2002. Since then it has become a community centerpiece. The venue maintains its general store appearance with a welcoming threshold out front and large patio off to the side. By day the Fiddle serves up sandwiches, wraps, and homemade ice cream, but by nightfall, a laid-back bar atmosphere takes over. The stage, just a bit over the floor, offers patrons an up-close experience, and you can bet money you’ll see folks take to the floor to dance to some bluegrass. 96 State Highway 32, Thomas; 304.463.4040; purplefiddle.com

Steel baron and philanthropist Andrew Carnegie lent his name to lots of things, most famously Carnegie Hall in New York City. But there are three other Carnegie Halls in the world—and one of them is located in downtown Lewisburg. It started as a classroom building for the Lewisburg Female Institute, which later became the Greenbrier College for Women. In the 1980s it was condemned and scheduled to be demolished but a group of citizens saved the historic building. It now serves as a performing arts and cultural center. In addition to its Mainstage Series that has brought the likes of Gillian Welch and Isaac Stern, live outdoor evening concerts are held on its lawn. Carnegie Hall also provides award-winning arts-in-education programs, classes and workshops, fine art exhibits, and an independent film series. 105 Church Street, Lewisburg; 304.645.7917; carnegiehallwv.com At the end of a narrow paved road, past a goat farm and old farm buildings, sits a large lot of land on top of a hill overlooking Pipestem State Park in southern West Virginia. Here, every year, hundreds of people gather to express themselves through music and art. The Culturefest World Music and Arts is a two-day festival featuring live music on multiple stages throughout the day and night. Colorful fabrics hang from the trees and blow in the breeze. Attendees can sign up for workshops in drumming and dance and check out a special area for the healing arts, too. People of all ages arrive to the family-friendly event in their best tie-dye and colorful apparel. On top of the mountain, a circle of girls in tribal shirts play African drums. In the distance, one vendor offers massage, while nearby, a line forms at the Organic To-Go food truck run by the folks of Mission Savvy, an ethical fashion boutique out of Charleston. Hand-painted signs with inspirational messages and quotes decorate the grounds—“Let your soul stand cool and composed before a million universes.” culturefestwv.com When most people pull off Interstate 64 in Milton, they’re looking for a gas station or fast food restaurant. But fans of bluegrass music know there’s a hidden gem not far from the off ramp. The Mountaineer Opry House is a pretty unassuming place. Orange velour curtains frame the stage. Some seats are patched with duct tape. In the back, there’s a small concession stand serving hot dogs, popcorn, and 16-ounce soft drinks for $1 apiece. But look around. Chances are there’s a big shiny tour bus sitting outside. Inconspicuous as it might be, this little venue has played host to some of the biggest names in bluegrass music: Ralph Stanley, Jim and Jesse McReynolds, the Osborne Brothers, the Country Gentlemen, and more. Opened by retired truck driver Paul King in summer of 1972, the Opry was originally intended to mimic the Grand Ole Opry of Nashville, Tennessee, with multiple acts performing each week. The format didn’t work out so King shifted to hosting concerts. Larry and Mary Stephens took over the Mountaineer Opry House in 1991 and have kept up King’s commitment to good music. If you plan to attend a concert at the Opry, arrive early. Regular patrons show up well before show time, often reserving prime seats with blankets and jackets. Interstate 64 Exit 28, Milton; 304.743.5749; mountaineeropry.com

The Purple Fiddle in Thomas features live music each night.

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The Art Museum of West Virginia University Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 2 hrs, 20 mins Charlotte 5 hrs, 50 mins Columbus 3 hours Pittsburgh 1 hr, 30 mins Washington, DC 3 hrs, 30 mins Toronto, Canada 6 hours

FRENCH WRITER AND SOCIAL ACTIVIST Thomas

Merton once said, “Art enables us to find ourselves and lose ourselves at the same time.” Standing in the lobby of the new Art Museum of West Virginia University, craning your head to take in a vibrant red, white, and black multi-story mural by graffiti artists How and Nosm, you can’t help but wonder if Merton had a place like this in mind—a space where art, academia, and the human imagination are free to converse. “Each time I come in here I see something I hadn’t noticed before,” says Joyce Ice, art museum director. The museum opened in August 2015, with streams of people passing through the space—brightly lit from floor-to-ceiling windows. Passing the mural they stop to stare at its sharp colors and eerily disembodied forms, turning to a neighbor and starting a conversation. Ice says interactions like these were the impetus for installing such a showstopper right in the entrance of the museum. “We think this piece is something students and people of all ages will respond to. It also illustrates our focus.” Museums are imagined as places of quiet, lonely contemplation, but Ice contends the best ones are intrinsically social. In an age of digital art and virtual libraries, the simple act of seeing and pondering something alongside another human being has become precious. “I think museums are exciting places to be because we come to them not only to learn, but also to share the experience with other people,” she says. “And there’s just no substitute for standing next to a work of art and seeing that depth and detail.” The museum houses nearly 3,000 works of art from across the world in two exhibition galleries totaling 5,400 square feet. One notable collection is the work WVU alumna Blanche Lazzell, a pioneering painter and printmaker who played a significant role in shaping abstract art in America. Other featured artists include Pablo Picasso, Roy Lichtenstein, Andy Warhol, Polly Apfelbaum, George Bellows, Thomas Cole, Mauricio Lasansky, and Grace Martin Taylor. The museum is open to the public, and admission is free. Two Fine Arts Drive, Morgantown; 304.293.2141; artmuseum.wvu.edu

CARLA WITT FORD

TRAVEL TIMES

Groups bond over aerial adventures at locations around the state.

TOGETHERNESS

ELIZABETH ROTH

Some of the best memories are made in groups.

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Palace of Gold

Hidden in West Virginia’s hills is one of the state’s most magnificent treasures—a monument that rivals the majestic palaces of India. Panhandle at the end of a crumbling, unlined paved road, you would have a hard time stumbling across this hidden treasure. You have to be going there on purpose. Otherwise, you would never notice the 22-karat gold-leaf roof of Prabhupada’s Palace of Gold perched atop a hill, peeking through the trees. With teasing views of the building as you round the road’s final bend, suddenly, there it is: an elaborately designed and decorated palace you’d expect to find in the Far East, but not in the Mountain State. Coined “America’s Taj Mahal,” this sight to behold has kept its majestic post amid the Appalachian Mountains since devotees of A. C. Bhaktivedanta Swami Prabhupada (pronounced: Prob-oo-pod-uh), founder of the International Society for Krishna Consciousness (ISKCON), began building the palace for their teacher in the late 1960s. Prabhupada, who was born in Calcutta, India, came to America in 1965 when he was nearly 70 years old and began his missionary work in New York City, spreading the message of the Krishna consciousness. One of his disciples acquired a piece of land near Moundsville and Prabhupada began traveling to West Virginia, but all that sat on the 133 acres of land was an old, run-down farmhouse. So his followers decided to build him a home in the Appalachian countryside, and Prabhupada established New Vrindaban, the first ISKCON community. The original plan was simple, consisting of a cinder block foundation, but as members continued building, they kept coming up with ideas to expand and make the building more elaborate. When Prabhupada died in 1977, the palace still had not been completed, and he never had the fortune of living in the extravagant home. In honor of their teacher, the members decided to make the Palace of Gold a monument to him. Devotees celebrated the first grand opening two years later. Today, half-hour tours of Prabhupada’s Palace of Gold are given to tens of thousands of visitors each year, from curious tourists to those who pilgrimage from all around the world to honor the author 70 explore • 2016

and teacher who spread Krishna consciousness across the globe. The grounds consist of the palace, a pond featuring a magnificent fountain and lotus flowers that are at peak bloom in early July, a lake with an ornate boathouse housing a large swan boat and 30-foot-tall statues of deities, and a temple with intricately carved teakwood throughout, where New Vrindaban community members can worship. In the summer, usually around the second week of June, the award-winning rose gardens burst with nature’s glory, as more than a thousand bushes featuring nearly 100 kinds of roses flourish and bloom. “The devotees living there are always working to make the land beautiful,” says photographer and Wheeling resident Rebecca Kiger. “The community members there really want to make the palace a little piece of paradise. It really is a magical place.” The palace was built by members of the ISKCON community—at the time, a bunch of kids in their 20s who had very little architectural experience and taught themselves by reading books. “Some were

REBECCA KIGER FOTOGRAFIA

TUCKED AMONG THE HILLS of the rural Northern

importantly, a temple where he could practice his religious traditions and perform chants and meditations. Yeager Airport Charleston, WV In the study, one of the 2 hrs, 50 mins palace’s most elaborately designed Charlotte rooms, sits a life-sized replica of 6 hrs, 40 mins Prabhupada translating Sanskrit Columbus 2 hrs, 20 mins writings into English. Around him, the walls are inlaid with Pittsburgh 1 hr, 20 mins several types of marble and Washington, DC adorned with gold baseboards 4 hrs, 50 mins and cornices and silk peacock Toronto, Canada brocades sewn with real gold 6 hours thread from India. Antique carved teakwood furniture fills the room, and two antique vases from China are purportedly donated gifts from Henry Ford’s great-grandson, a member of the greater ISKCON culture. In Prabhupada’s bedroom, the walls consist of a few thousand pieces of rare Persian onyx and Italian marble, and the gold-leaf ceiling featuring nearly a thousand hand-painted flowers was designed and completed by a community woman who spent six months on her back, painting the ceiling. The bathroom mirror is an 18th century piece imported from Spain, and the 300-pound sink of grey-orange marble features rose quartz faucet handles embellished with 22-karat gold. Finally, at the center of the palace lies Prabhupada’s temple, intended as the main room of the building, where he would have gathered with his devotees every morning and evening to perform kirtan, a devotional tradition of call-and-response chanting. A rare antique chandelier from France hangs from the ceiling adorned with murals, and the floors, walls, and ceilings are inlaid with tens of thousands of feet of marble and onyx imported from France, Italy, Canada, and the Middle East and cut into 2,000 hand-polished pieces. After Prabhupada’s death, members incorporated an ornate gold-leaf throne for him, the focal point of the temple, with a dome ceiling boasting more than 4,000 pieces of crystal. As you leave the palace, the soft whisper of the wind in the trees accompanies recordings of Prabhupada performing the Krishna mantra, “Hare Krishna Hare Krishna, Krishna Krishna Hare Hare, Hare Rama Hare Rama, Rama Rama Hare Hare,” reminding visitors that this place, born of Hindu philosophies, is a place of love and devotion. For information on tours and festivals at the palace, visit palaceofgold.com. The palace is open April through August, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., and September through March, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tours are $8 for adults, $6 for children 6 to 18. 3759 McCreary’s Ridge Road, Moundsville; 304.843.1812; palaceofgold.com TRAVEL TIMES

Americans, some were Canadians, there were a few West Virginians, and they learned to do all the cutting and polishing of the marble,” says palace manager Tom Lorence. The palace consists of dozens of kinds of marble from 17 countries, including the United States. The chandeliers were designed and created by a community woman who matched the colors of the Austrian and Czechoslovakian crystals to the colors of the stained glass windows, also made by New Vrindaban community members. Every square inch of space in the western gallery and throughout is ornate and colorful, with the reds, greens, blues, purples, and oranges of the stained glass windows reflected in the ceiling of mirrors and in the dark green marble. Royal peacock windows grace the palace walls with more than 1,500 pieces of hand-shaped stained glass. Originally intended as a home for their leader, Prabhupada, the palace was designed to include a bedroom and bath, a study where Prabhupada could do his writings and translations, and most

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TRAVEL TIMES

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 10 minutes Charlotte 3 hrs, 50 mins Columbus 2 hrs, 40 mins Pittsburgh 3 hrs, 20 mins Washington, DC 5 hrs, 20 mins Toronto, Canada 7 hrs, 50 mins

Salt of the Earth SIX HUNDRED MILLION YEARS AGO the earth that would become the Appalachian Mountains lay buried. Over that soil a vast briny ocean stretched blue-gray for thousands of miles. Continental shift would one day force the mountains to rise and swallow the sea. But millions of years later the salty traces left over would shape the economy of an entire region, not to mention the fortune of one West Virginia family. “A lot of things had to go right, because a lot of things could have gone wrong,” says Lewis Payne, chief operating officer of J.Q. Dickinson Salt-Works. He isn’t talking about the death of an ocean, however. He’s talking about the rebirth of a family business now in operation on the same land after decades of stillness. “It seems like it was fate,” he says. Payne’s ancestor William Dickinson, a 19th century economic pioneer from Virginia, got hooked on the newly discovered West Virginia salt and in 1813 invested in property along the Kanawha River. The salt began attracting a following among connoisseurs. Kanawha Valley pure white salt was named best salt in the world at the 1851 London World’s Fair. Although it was able to weather the Civil War, J.Q. Dickinson Salt-Works eventually closed in the 1940s. But in 2003 Payne and 72 explore • 2016

his sister Nancy Bruns, CEO of the salt works, saw an opportunity to revive the family business. Bruns and her husband had previously owned a restaurant in North Carolina and, being in the food business, she knew of the recent resurgence in gourmet salt and the growing interest in local and sustainable food production. She called up Payne and the brother/sister team approached their cousins, who now own the land and farm where the salt works once stood, and asked to lease some earth. After drilling a new well the family was back in business, using greenhouses that were already on the property to dry the salt. With decades of regional history in the earth under their feet, Nancy and Lewis pride themselves on working with local businesses for marketing and other services whenever possible. That’s just part of their story, they say, and it’s one reason why consumers are lining up at the many stores now selling their products. “We want to support local consumers and restaurants. That’s the reason we’re filling this niche. People want to know where their food is coming from. People are attracted to an authentic brand that has a good story,” Nancy says. “A lot of brands make up a look that appears authentic. Ours is true. It’s seven generations of history.” 371 Kanawha Boulevard E., Charleston; 304.925.7918; jqdsalt.com

ELIZABETH ROTH

A family digs deep to find a culinary treasure right under its feet.

Heart of Glass

Peer into the past with a visit to West Virginia’s hand-blown glass factories.

ELIZABETH ROTH

WEST VIRGINIA HAS A FEW great industrial legacies. But throughout the 20th century, the glass industry helped to earn the state a worldwide reputation. Here is a look at that legacy, which continues today.

Blenko Glass Milton, West Virginia is home to Blenko Glass, one of the oldest continuous hand-blown glass factories in America. The company came to Milton in 1921 when William John Blenko, a London native, brought the art of European blowing to America, and in particular West Virginia, where natural gas to fuel his factory was cheap and abundant. Eureka Art Glass Company, as it was called until 1930, became Blenko Glass when the Great Depression forced William Blenko to think outside the pane and expand the stained glass business to include the colorful pieces that we recognize today as distinctly Blenko. Each item is carefully crafted using the same methods and tools that master craftsmen in Europe employed hundreds of years ago. For the last 80-plus years, the iconic water bottle has been the company’s top seller, Blenko Glass Vice President of Sales and Marketing Dean Six says. Blenko’s facility is open year-round to visitors, and depending on the season, it welcomes a handful

A worker inspects a blown-glass bulb at Davis-Lynch Glass Company in Morgantown.

For a comprehensive retrospective of the glass industry in West Virginia and around the country, stop in Weston and spend time at the Museum of American Glass in West Virginia. The museum was established in 1993 as a nonprofit organization dedicated to discovering, preserving, and publicizing the U.S. glass industry. It now contains pieces from some of the country’s bestknown factories as well as long-closed factories that time has forgotten. The museum is open 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. on Sunday. Admission is free. 230 Main Avenue, Weston; 304.269.5006; magwv.com

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Ron Hinkle From a very young age, Ron Hinkle’s family encouraged his creativity and artistic talents. During his junior year of high school, Hinkle went to work at Louie Glass Company in Weston. Louie Glass, no longer in business, created fine crystal wine glasses, vases, and centerpieces. He continued to work at Louie Glass and hone his glassblowing skills after he graduated high school. In 1993, Hinkle decided to establish his own glass studio, which creates products for both wholesale and retail sales. Today, Hinkle’s work is showcased in galleries across the nation. “I originally thought that my rural location might deter folks from coming, but that hasn’t been the case,” Hinkle says. Thirteen years later, a vast rainbow of colors, shapes, and designs, available at every price point, are displayed in the gallery that overlooks his childhood home. Adjacent to the gallery is a functional, tidy workshop where his hand-blown glass is created. Fueled by propane gas, three fire-bricked ovens are used to turn the raw materials into molten glass, to re-heat the glass while it is being shaped, and to slowly cool the final piece to prevent breakage. Visitors are welcome by appointment at Hinkle’s studio. “There are still a lot of people interested in colorful glass,” he says. He connects the color and shape of glass with emotion. “With each piece, I can hold a retrospect of my life in my hand,” he says. Off Sago Road, Buckhannon; 304.472.7963; ronhinkle.com Amber Carman Not all West Virginia glass galleries have traditional roots. Amber’s Glass, located just outside Huttonsville, came to fruition out of necessity and a bit of serendipity. Amber Carman desperately needed to make a move. She was stuck in a career rut, working an unfulfilling job. On an impromptu trip to Dollywood, she struck up a conversation with a glassblower doing demonstrations at the theme park.

KATIE HANLON; CARLA WITT FORD

to a few hundred visitors a day. “They can watch the process from liquid sand to finished art,” Six says. “It’s pretty cool.” The factory floor is filled with different “shops” that all play an intricate part in creating the colorful pieces Blenko is known for. Panels across the factory floor explain what each worker is doing, which allows visitors to enjoy a self-guided tour at their own pace. Depending on the complexity of the piece, it could take as few as three workers or as many as eight to complete. Blenko has left its mark on some of our nation’s greatest landmarks, like the spotlights adorning the New York City subway stations and the Washington, D.C., Metro stops. Blenko’s vibrant colors are also vital parts of buildings like The National Cathedral, the Air Force Academy’s chapel, and the library at West Point Academy. A few years back, the folks at Blenko Glass were considering closing the doors. But thanks to devoted employees, innovative design, a little faith in an American treasure, and lots of support from its adoring fans, Blenko is experiencing renewed success. In that spirit, Blenko continues to strive for new ideas, colors, and forms, Six says. 9 Bill Blenko Drive, Milton; 304.743.9081; blenko.com Blenko also takes pride in collaborating with artists as often as it can. Nationally renowned glassblower Ron Hinkle is an artist well known to Blenko. In the past, Hinkle sold his work at Blenko’s gallery and demonstrated his work during the annual Blenko Collectors Days. Now he serves as plant manager for Blenko and work on his art at Blenko’s factory two days a week. While Hinkle is excited about bolstering his working relationship with Blenko, he isn’t leaving his own studio behind. Just a few miles from Buckhannon at the end of a gravel road is a gallery brimming with an exquisite collection of vibrant glass. It might not be where one would expect to find a gallery like this, but this serene country setting is home to Hinkle’s studio. And it is definitely worth the trip.

Carman pressed the glassblower for information on how to begin learning such a skill. His response surprised her. The park had been trying for two years to find an apprentice who would stick with it and help give demonstrations to visitors who just wanted to see somebody working with delicate glass. That was on a Friday. The following Monday, Carman was officially an employee of Dollywood, facing the fire of 2,000-degree ovens, dropping glass all over the floor, and listening to her mistakes crunch under her shoes. It was the beginning of a long journey to make a living off her art. Last year, her work was accepted into Tamarack. Her first fine art piece, titled “It’s All Blue,” was juried into the state Division of Culture and History’s annual exhibition. She now has her own studio in the old automotive bay and an on-site gallery. 231 Parkersburg Turnpike, Huttonsville; 304.704.8392; ambersglass.com

CARLA WITT FORD

Davis-Lynch Glass Company If you turn into Star City’s industrial district abutting the Monongahela River, you’ll find another gem in West Virginia’s storied glass tradition: a large, bright blue warehouse complex, right off the rail-trail, where Davis-Lynch manufactures hand-blown lamp parts to ship across the United States. Davis-Lynch is one of the last full-scale hand-blown glass producers in the U.S. It is certainly the last one in Morgantown, a city that was once home to a half-dozen major manufactures. While many of America’s glass factories closed doors with the opening of international trade, Davis-Lynch stayed open. The Davis family got out of the company years ago. Today it’s solely a Lynch family enterprise, and production lines, though lean, are manned. You’ve likely come across some of the company’s work. The nearby L G Company buys Davis-Lynch parts to create and sell lamps. The Morgantown History Museum has a few pieces. Star City’s street lamps are made from Davis-Lynch glass, and so are some of Disney World’s, according to co-owner Robert Lynch. Boyers Avenue, Star City; 304.599.2244; davis-lynchglass.com

Tamarack

NEARBY VISIT

TAMARACK’S STRIKING, peaked red roof and attractively landscaped grounds draw half a million visitors annually into a welcome respite of visual beauty, Appalachian sounds, and distinctive aromas. Conveniently located in Beckley right off Interstates 77 and 64, Tamarack is one of West Virginia’s crown jewels. A repository of the finest West Virginiamade products, crafts, and art, it is a destination in its own right. Since 1994, Tamarack has worked with more than 3,000 West Virginian artists and craftspeople. You’ll find everything from furniture to pottery to hand-blown glass to books to apparel. The retail space TRAVEL TIMES overlooks studios, where large windows allow guests to watch Yeager Airport artists hard at work. The fine arts Charleston, WV gallery highlights some of the 1 hour state’s most imaginative artists, Charlotte 3 hrs, 30 mins and every Sunday there’s a free, live performance in the theater. Columbus 2 hrs, 20 mins A visit is not complete without Pittsburgh grabbing something to eat at the 3 hrs, 50 mins onsite restaurant, which offers Washington, DC a deli, a grill, and a bakery. Try 4 hrs, 40 mins the fried green tomato sandToronto, Canada wich. 1 Tamarack Park, Beckley; 8 hrs, 10 mins 304.256.6843; tamarackwv.com

Appalachian Glass Appalachian Glass in Weston is also keeping the state’s glassmaking traditions alive, with three generations of artisans working together in this tourist-friendly shop. Owner Chip Turner learned to work glass while still in high school, then worked at local factories after graduation. When he decided to open his own shop, he recruited his father, Matt, who had worked in the industry for four decades as a machinist, making glass molds and tools. Chip’s son Todd also got in on the act, handling much of Appalachian Glass’s sand carving and decoration work, as well as some glass blowing. The shop is open to tours, with daily demonstrations, and features an on-site gift shop so you can take a little piece of this heritage home. 499 U.S. Highway 33, Weston; 304.269.1030; shopwva.com gotowv.com 75

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into room design as powder rooms or half-baths within executive suites. “Many of the architectural elements kept in our guest rooms were not just historic character, they are the challenges of renovations of an old building,” Childress says. “It gives us a feel similar to a luxury bed-and-breakfast.” While each room has a distinct character, the most unique in the hotel is the Marie Antoinette room. Painted a dusty blue and decorated in soft pinks and yellows, Heritage, luxury, and community combine the signature suite stands out as a simple at Parkersburg’s Blennerhassett Hotel. but feminine showpiece in a sea of more masculine style. A ballroom, library, patio IT’S A WARM AFTERNOON at The Blennerhassett Hotel, but a row tent, business rooms, and an exercise room of busy ceiling fans keeps the air moving on the patio. The heady scent round out the available amenities. of flowers from the nearby garden and the sounds of jazz provide a Stepping away from the luxury of soothing baseline for the chatter of ladies out to lunch. Cotton clouds guest rooms to sit in the library, cozy and float through the sky, dotted here and there by the stone spires of the wood-paneled with tall windows flooding Parkersburg skyline. In the restaurant, as throughout the hotel, earth the room in natural light, you might be tones, wood, and leather mix with delicate patterns and detailing. taken aback by the beauty of the space, not More masculine than feminine, but certainly not hunting lodge, it’s to mention the friendliness of its patrons. an atmosphere where a table of businessmen, a honeymooning couple, In the afternoon, two Parkersburg men or a lonesome writer can feel refined while dunking breakfast potatoes at the in-house Starbucks take a break into a side of ketchup. European-style elegance, they call it, but the after a business meeting to introduce experience is even better. “Owning a historic hotel is like owning a themselves to a guest sitting alone. It’s all part of the spark that sets minor league baseball team. You need to really love the game,” says The Blennerhassett Hotel apart. “The Blenny,” as it’s called by locals, Cecil Childress, general manager of the hotel. “The owner here has a isn’t just an impeccably modernized historic hotel in the middle of commitment to getting it right—oak trim and flat screen TVs.” Parkersburg. It’s not just a place to rest your head in feather pillows Named for its famous island neighbor Blennerhassett Island, after a day of touring the nearby Blennerhassett Island and mansion. The Blennerhassett Hotel was born in 1889 as a grand guesthouse It’s as much a part of local life as it is an upscale boutique hotel. in downtown Parkersburg for the oil and gas elite. A remodel of Central to the local taste for the hotel is the in-house Spats the property in the 1980s added another 49 rooms to the original restaurant led by Chef Rick Argoso. Head chef for just over a year, building, doubling its room capacity, but it wasn’t until the local Rick arrived in Parkersburg from InterContinental where he worked Ross family purchased the hotel and remodeled again in the early for 13 years. His menu, like the hotel itself, takes a modern look at 2000s that the Blennerhassett began to typify modern elegance and old favorites. “I like to do classics and revamp older dishes,” he says. period luxury. “It’s an iconic, architectural building here in downtown “I’ve worked with a lot of chefs from many different backgrounds Parkersburg, which sets us apart from anything else,” says Marketing and I’ve learned a bit of everything. I try to implement that into these Manager Nicole Slattery. “In the remodel they took it to a whole new classics.” His weekly specials and culinary events, combined with live level in terms of interior design, look, and feel. It’s casual but upscale.” entertainment and an easy atmosphere, draw a number of people to Today it’s still a businessman’s hotel, but the Blennerhassett’s bouthe restaurant—hotel guests and locals alike. Slattery estimates more tique styling and welcoming atmosphere draw visitors for weddings, than half of weekly business at the restaurant comes from a supportive weekend getaways, and tourism, as well as corporate meetings. local community. Guests can choose from seven types of rooms decorated in the rich In turn the hotel staff and owners are active in local culture, particreds and browns reminiscent of the hotel’s founding. “People love ipating in events like the annual Taste of Parkersburg, a culinary tour our signature rooms, like the Chancellor and the William Morris,” of the town. “At the hotel we don’t have a spa, a golf course, or a pool,” Slattery says. “But it’s not just our signature suites that are completely Slattery says. “But we do have the historic Blennerhassett Island, different. Of all our 89 rooms, no two are the same.” Executive museums, a local market, the Julia-Ann Square Historic District, and suites adjoin personal boardrooms. Double rooms are just right for the Smoot Theatre. We’re working with local groups like Downtown road-tripping friends. The suites are ideal for romantic getaways. PKB to come up with ways to make this a destination.” In winter the While rooms follow a similar theme, each is different with granite hotel hosts the Festival of Trees, a gingerbread competition, and a counters, whirlpool tubs, spa-grade showers, four-poster king beds, popular New Year’s Eve party. Through spring and summer, it offers walk-in closets, and Keurig coffeemakers. Designs follow floor plans, an island tour package. During Halloween season it offers a haunted which, in a historic building, can be a bit erratic. As the hotel changed Parkersburg package. “It’s great to work at a place that’s such a part of hands, walls were knocked down to create bigger rooms or built back the culture,” Childress says. “We’re very much a cultural component up to move staircases. Little nooks and crannies formed in unusual in the community.” 320 Market Street, Parkersburg; 304.422.3131; shapes and sizes. The Blennerhassett has incorporated these spaces theblennerhassett.com 76 explore • 2016

CARLA WITT FORD

A Suite Getaway

TRAVEL TIMES

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 1 hr, 20 mins Charlotte 5 hours Columbus 1 hr, 50 mins Pittsburgh 2 hrs, 30 mins Washington, DC 4 hrs, 50 mins Toronto, Canada 6 hrs, 50 mins

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Real. TOGETHERNESS

Five places your group won’t want to miss. 1

PRICKETT’S FORT

GREEN BANK The Robert C. Byrd Green Bank Telescope at the National Radio Astronomy Observatory is the largest, most capable, fully steerable single dish radio telescope in the world—and it’s nestled in the quiet, verdant hills of Pocahontas County in Green Bank. The dish’s radio collecting area is more than two acres in size and can pick up the faintest radio waves from across the universe. Things like pulsars, dense neutron stars, and other extreme states of matter are just a few of the center’s favorite research subjects. Scientists at the center are adding to our knowledge about the structure and formation of the universe every day, and more than 60,000 visitors flock to this technological wonder every year. Slavin Hollow Rod, Green Bank; science.nrao.edu/facilities/gbt

This historic site was reconstructed in 1976 and now serves as a living history museum where reenactors demonstrate daily life in colonial times. Watch blacksmiths tend forges, spinners and weavers create traditional crafts, and gunsmiths recreate 18th century firearms. Outside the historical area, the park is also a great place for picnics, hiking, fishing, and concerts. 88 Park Entrance Road; 304.363.3030; prickettsfortstatepark.com

TRANS-ALLEGHENY LUNATIC ASYLUM Built

before the Civil War, the former Weston State Hospital—now the Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum—is the largest handcut stone building in North America, arguably second only in the world to the Kremlin. The imposing Gothic structure, which covers more than a square block of downtown Weston, is open for tours. Brave the spirits in October during its popular Asylum After Dark ghost hunts. 71 Asylum Drive; 304.269.5070; trans-alleghenylunaticasylum.com

CHIEF LOGAN STATE PARK

Although there are plenty of outdoor activities at Chief Logan, one of the main draws to this popular state park is the Liz Spurlock Amphitheater. Each summer, the outdoor theater hosts regular theater productions, including the popular “Aracoma Story.” The play is based on a local legend and tells the story of an American Indian princess, Princess Aracoma, who falls in love with a British soldier. Check out the website for ticket prices and a complete schedule. 376 Little Buffalo Creek Road, Logan; 304.792.7125; chiefloganstatepark.com

NIKKI BOWMAN; CARLA WITT FORD

Come Together

BRAMWELL Situated along the horseshoe bend of the Bluestone River—teetering on West Virginia’s southern border with Virginia—sits Bramwell, a tiny town founded on coal riches that boasts the nickname “A Town of Millionaires.” The rich and famous are gone, but their grand houses remain and are open for public tours each June and December. Just one visit will leave you rushing to tell everyone that, at the turn of the 20th century, this enclave once touted more millionaires per capita than any other town in the United States.

ADVENTURE

NROCKS

Adrenaline junkies are never satisfied—but West Virginia has enough white-knuckle excitement to keep them busy for a while.

Test your mettle—and fear of heights—by crossing this swinging bridge at NROCKS Outdoor Adventures.

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Real. ADVENTURE The raucous Gauley River gets even more radical each fall, with the release of water from the Summersville Dam.

The Grand, Gushing, Gorgeous Gauley THE SOUNDS OF SURGING WATER fill your ears while a cool spray splashes your face. Your guide orders a hard left paddle as your raft skims off the side of a rock. As you float out of rapids and into calmer waters a feeling of exhilaration and accomplishment fills you and—judging by the grins on their faces—your fellow adventurers. You don’t have much time to linger in the glow of your first successful whitewater rapid before you again hear rushing water around the bend. As your guide warns of the coming trek, you and your cohorts double-check the security of your life jackets and helmets. Your hands tense around the paddle, but this time the feeling is more of excited determination than of anxiety. The first rapid wasn’t so bad, and you’re ready for the next. TRAVEL TIMES The New River Gorge is central to what is widely considered the best whitewater rafting Yeager Airport in North America. There are two rivers in the Charleston, WV 1 hour area, both with some of the most striking scenery of any river in the eastern U.S. The New River Charlotte 3 hrs, 40 mins is the more laid-back of the two, with a blend Columbus of mild and medium rapids. The Gauley River 3 hrs, 30 mins is the New’s more extreme sister—it can be Pittsburgh described as nothing short of thrilling. 3 hrs, 30 mins The 27-mile stretch of river making up Washington, DC the Upper Gauley and Lower Gauley rafting 4 hrs, 50 mins locations drops more than 600 feet in elevation, Toronto, Canada 7 hrs, 50 mins creating hundreds of rapids and waves that try even the most experienced rafters—sections of the river with names like Insignificant, Pillow Rock, Iron Ring, Lost Paddle, and Sweet’s Falls—hint at the river’s long history with adventurers. There’s one particular place on the Lower Gauley, an advanced section of the river, that’s a favorite among many rafters. It’s called Canyon Doors. “It’s one of the most beautiful spots I’ve seen in my life,” says Ike Mootz, river operations managers for Adventures 80 explore • 2016

on the Gorge, one of the local rafting companies. “Iron stained cliff walls rise up in a rust, red-orange color.” He says he prefers early-morning runs to catch the rising sun and fresh air. Rapids are sorted into six categories, from Class I to Class VI, indicating easy through intermediate and advanced levels. Class VI is an extreme and exploratory classification that should only be attempted by real experts and professionals. Beyond that, the intensity of rivers varies with seasons and water levels, and high water usually means a wilder ride. The Upper Gauley is a powerful river, with many class V and upper-level class IV rapids, and is only recommended for

JOHN PETRETICH

This rafting adventure offers the thrill of a lifetime.

New and Gauley River

NEARBY SHOP

Whitewater Outfitters ACE Adventure Resort 1 Concho Road, Minden 800.787.3982; aceraft.com Adventures on the Gorge 219 Chestnutburg Road, Lansing 855.379.8738; adventuresonthegorge.com Cantrell Ultimate Rafting 49 Cantrell Drive, Fayetteville 304.877.8235; cantrellultimaterafting.com New & Gauley River Adventures 11 Oscar White Road, Lansing 800.759.7238; gauley.com River Expeditions 900 Broadway Avenue, Oak Hill 800.463.9873; raftinginfo.com West Virginia Adventures 231 Wood Mt. Road, Glen Jean 800.292.0880; trywva.com

advanced adventurers. Rafters need endurance and skill to navigate the river’s steep drops, tight rapids, and wild whitewater—but if they can hack it, they’ll get a thrilling ride. The Lower Gauley is considered a more moderate ride. It’s usually where enthusiastic rafters head after they’ve gotten their first taste of whitewater on the milder New River. Autumn, especially, is world-renowned on the Gauley River. Thousands of seasoned rafters from around the globe travel here to experience Gauley Season. The reason is the famed release dates in September and October when the Summersville Dam releases 2,800

cubic feet of water per second to cascade through the river canyon. At least 22 release days are required by law, and the pre-scheduled nature of these dates means adventurers have plenty of time to plan. To experience the Gauley in all of its glory, make the trip at least twice—once during the less intense summer season, and again during the autumn. Many runs on the Gauley, particularly on fall release days, are not for the faint of heart. “For many of our guests this feels almost like the frontier,” Mootz says. “They see trees, wildlife, it’s a roller coaster on steroids, and you’re released from the confines of society.” gotowv.com 81

Real. ADVENTURE

The Biggest Day of the Year

WILD, WONDERFUL WEST VIRGINIA

A unique annual celebration in Fayetteville draws thousands of visitors each year.

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he New River Gorge Bridge just outside Fayetteville is one of the most recognizable landmarks in all of West Virginia—it’s even featured on our state quarter. The steel arch bridge stretches more than 3,000 feet over the New River. Its arch alone is 1,700 feet long. A feat of engineering, the bridge carries thousands of cars, trucks, and tractor-trailers across the New River Gorge each day, turning what was once a 45-minute journey into a 45-second afterthought. But once a year all traffic stops. The bridge is closed, its traffic rerouted. Visitors from near and far swarm its rust-colored trusses, some taking walks along its length, others zip-lining from apex to foot. Still others jump. One after another, men and women dive headlong into the air. Split seconds after their feet clear the bridge, the free-fallers are yanked back up by the pull of unfettered parachutes, cheered on by spectators along the bridge and within the gorge. It’s the annual Bridge Day celebration, and it’s the biggest event in town. “When you go on to the bridge for the first time and look over, it’s stunning,” says Sally Kiner, executive director of the Fayetteville Convention & Visitors Bureau. Three-hundred-and-sixty-degree views from 876 feet in the air show off the New River Gorge in its unspoiled glory. “On a bright sunny day in late October—that’s when the leaves are just perfect.” Bridge Day takes place every third Saturday of October to commemorate the 1977 completion of the bridge construction. “It was formed by state statute. It’s not a normal festival,” says Sharon Cruikshank, an organizer with the Fayette County Chamber of Commerce. Since Bridge Day is on a federal highway, the main

connector for two interstates, legislators felt the festival needed to be codified in state law so it could be continued for years to come. One of the world’s largest extreme sporting events, Bridge Day is the only day of the year one of the world’s longest single-arch bridges is closed for people to walk, let alone BASE jump. Bridge Day shuts down all four lanes of U.S. Route 19. “When Bridge Day first started there were no BASE jumpers. There were no rappellers. People came to walk on the bridge and enjoy the fall weather,” Kiner says. Now what started with a couple thousand people enjoying leisurely walks along the bridge has turned into an event for more than 100,000. “In the late 1980s the crowds started increasing,” says Benjy Simpson, longtime coordinator for the Bridge Day rappel. In the mid1990s, he says, the event saw its largest attendance, with the National Park Service estimating crowds of more than 200,000. “They’d close off the road at a stoplight a mile and a half from the bridge and people would have to walk from there. Cars would be lined up another three to four miles on Route 19 in both directions.” And Bridge Day continues to draw huge crowds year after year. Vendors and activities for spectators also continue to multiply. Those who aren’t rappelling or BASE jumping can take an interactive walking tour of the structure or ride the Highline, a 700-foot zip line anchored at the bridge catwalk and stretching into the gorge below for one day only. Others choose to raft the river below or hike a trail to watch the activities from another angle. Fayetteville has jumped onto the excitement with the annual Bridge Day Chili Cook-off, which takes place after the bridge activities, while the popular restaurant Smokey’s on the Gorge in Lansing hosts Taste of Bridge Day, an annual sampling of area restaurants.

Refuel

After a day of adventure, fill up at Fayetteville’s locally owned restaurants.

ELIZABETH ROTH

PIES & PINTS is likely Fayetteville’s

best-known restaurant. Co-founders Kim Shingledecker and David Bailey opened the restaurant in June 2003, serving up gourmet hand-tossed pizzas alongside craft beer. As the restaurant grew in popularity, Pies & Pints opened additional locations throughout West Virginia, Ohio, and Kentucky. Following the success of Pies, Bailey started Secret Sandwich Society in 2010. It has since become Fayetteville’s worst-kept secret. The sandwiches are named for former U.S. Presidents. History nerds should look for subtle

NEARBY EAT jokes on the menu. The “Kennedy” contains roasted pork loin, ham, pickles, Swiss cheese, roasted garlic mayo, and mustard. At any other restaurant, the dish would be called a “Cuban.” Just up the street you’ll find The Cathedral Café. As you might guess from the name, the building was once a church. It’s now a relaxed meeting place frequented by outdoorsy folk, businesspeople, locals, and tourists alike who come to enjoy a large selection of coffee drinks, soups, sandwiches, salads, desserts, and daily specials. If you’re not in the mood for casual American food, Fayetteville and the surrounding area also have a good selection of specialty cuisines. Gumbo’s is a local Cajun favorite, along with Country Thai in nearby Lansing.

The Cathedral Café is a local favorite for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

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Real. ADVENTURE

Zip It For a new kind of adventure, look up.

SO YOU’VE SEEN A LOT of West Virginia. You’ve climbed its mountains. Taken to a raft to get a taste of the whitewater. Hopped on a mountain bike to get up close and personal with the terrain. “Now what?” you ask. “What else is left?” “Come to us, and you can see it from a bird’s perspective,” says Tiny Elliot, director of aerial operations for Adventures on the Gorge. Tiny is one of many people around the state who would love to harness you to a zip line, lead you into the trees, and set you soaring through the forest. “Sometimes you can reach out and touch the branches,” he says. But first, let’s cover the basics: Zip-lining happens with what’s called a zip line. That’s a simple device made of a pulley and a cable and mounted on an incline. Put a human on the line, attached with a harness, and the laws of physics will take over from there. You will glide—zip, really—from the top of the incline to the bottom of it, with nothing but gravity propelling you along. Zip-lining originated in tropical regions and was used as a way to access remote villages and travel across rough terrain. The unique system was mostly unheard of in the United States until a decade ago, when tourism experts realized zip-lining could also be entertaining. West Virginia, with its diverse terrain, was a natural fit for the adrenaline rush, and zip lines have quickly multiplied across the state. Each zip line offers a special view of the state’s natural beauty. “You could build a zip line that hovers over a cornfield in Kansas, but it wouldn’t be a real adventure like it is here, where you’re a part of the trees,” Miller says. Here, you really get that Tarzan experience.”

Adventures on the Gorge has one of the longest zip lines on the East Coast, and offers canopy tours for first-timers and adrenaline junkies alike. The TreeTops tour offers views of deep valleys, hemlock groves, and rhododendron-filled wilderness. For even more action, the Gravity zip line zigzags through open air, up to 200 feet above the ground and up to 60 miles per hour. 219 Chestnutburg Road, Lansing; 855.379.8738; adventuresonthegorge.com West Virginia University is one of the few colleges in the country with an active zip line. The tour is open to the public and lets riders soar through the university’s research forest, catching a one-of-a-kind glimpse of picturesque Chestnut Ridge Park. “Aside from tropical rainforests, this is one of the most diverse forests in the world, which of course comes with a wide variety of wildlife,” 84 explore • 2016

says Heather Arbogast, a WVU graduate assistant and zip line tour guide. It’s a great way to learn about the Mountain State’s indigenous species and, of course, a bit more about velocity, speed, and force. 1397 Chestnut Ridge Road, Bruceton Mills; 304.293.5221; adventurechallenge.wvu.edu Snowshoe Mountain Resort The zip line at Snowshoe is new, but it doesn’t need much advertisement. People zip right through the heart of the resort village, providing entertainment for riders and the spectators below. 10 Snowshoe Drive, Snowshoe; 877.441.4386; snowshoemtn.com TimberZips and North Fork Valley Canopy Tour Timberline Four Seasons Resort has the first zip line in the state to accommodate four people at once, so visitors can take in the experience together. Sitting a little ways south, NROCKS also runs North Fork Valley Canopy Tour, a three-and-a-half-hour canopy tour with spectacular views. 141 Nelson Gap Road Circleville; 877.435.4842; nrocks.com River Riders This was one of the first in West Virginia and continues to evolve. The tour recently introduced “Superman-style” rides, where zip-liners lie flat with arms open wide and plunge

NEARBY SHOP

Outfitted FOR Adventure Mom-and-pop outfitters offer customized service and helpful advice to get you geared up for your next excursion. Here are a few of our favorites from around the state:

WATER STONE OUTDOORS Owned by husband-and-wife team Gene and Maura Kistler and their business partner Kenny Parker, this outfitter is the go-to choice for adventurers in West Virginia’s premier adventure town. Water Stone has everything you need for exploring the New River Gorge, from rock climbing gear to life vests and camping gear. Outdoor Magazine named Water Stone one of its Top 100 Retailers in 2014. 101 W Wiseman Avenue, Fayetteville; 304.574.2425; waterstoneoutdoors.com

PATHFINDER headfirst into the air for an exhilarating journey. 408 Alstadts Hill Road, Harpers Ferry; 800.326.7238; harpersferryzipline.com Burning Rock The folks at Burning Rock make one thing clear: This is no mere “tour.” The Burning Rock Express Racing Zipline is a high-speed twin zip line. Riders pick up more and more speed as they go, causing the ground below to become just a green blur. Unless, of course, you choose the nighttime zip line. For this guests are equipped with LED lighted vests and wristbands before plunging into the darkness. It’s a thrill not for the faint of heart. 171 Burning Rock Drive, Tams; 877.683.9240; burningrockwv.com

JAY YOUNG

Grand Vue Park The three-hour Grand Vue Park Canopy Tour offers awe-inspiring views of downtown Moundsville. The course features eight dual zip lines, ranging from 340 to 1,500 feet, along with three suspension bridges. 250 Trail Drive, Moundsville; 304.845.9810; grandvuepark.com River Expeditions This zip line course, known as The Ridges, is a one-to-two-hour treetop adventure. Professional guides take adventurers through the forest canopy on four zip lines, a cargo net climb, and an adventure sky bridge. 900 Broadway Avenue, Oak Hill; 800.463.9873; raftinginfo.com

Adventures on the Gorge offers a large selection of aerial adventures with TreeTops Canopy Tour, Gravity Zip Lines and TimberTrek Aerial Park, which hosts 27,000 guests each year.

This outfitter, originally opened in 1973, is a full-service bike, ski, and snowboard shop. Need a custom rack for your car to carry that new bike? They can help. Need to be fitted for new ski boots? Got that too. It offers custom car rack system mounting and an assortment of outdoor apparel alongside camping and climbing gear. 235 High Street, Morgantown; 304.296.0076; pathfinderwv.com

SERENITY NOW Located in downtown Lewisburg, Serenity Now sells big-name brands like Patagonia, Keen, and Old Town from an old general store. The shop also conducts fly-fishing classes and guided fly-fishing trips. 207 W. Washington Street, Lewisburg; 304.647.9779; serenitynowoutfitters.com

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Iron Age

NROCKS offers an extreme mountainclimbing adventure, no experience necessary. IF YOU’VE GOT AN IRON WILL, there’s an iron way—tucked within

145 acres in Pendleton County. You can test that mettle at NROCKS Outdoor Adventures in Circleville, at its one-of-a-kind Via Ferrata. A via what? A Via Ferrata, Italian for “by way of iron,” is a permanently installed system of steel rungs and cables that allows adventure seekers to climb mountains without mountain-climbing experience. It was originally designed to transport troops in Italy during World War I, but Via Ferratas have emerged as recreational undertakings for today’s outdoor enthusiasts. At NROCKS, its Via Ferrata offers a mile of fixed-anchor, professionally guided rock climbing over a three-and-a-half-hour adventure. The Via Ferrata is open year-round, weather permitting. It’s not for the faint of heart, as climbers can experience an adrenaline-bursting vantage point from 200 feet above ground. NROCKS is the first Via Ferrata designed and built by Americans and is one of the longest in the country. It makes sense—rock climbing has a rich history in this region of the state. Interestingly enough, in 86 explore • 2016

the early 1940s the 10th Mountain Division TRAVEL TIMES of the United States Army used Nelson Rocks and nearby Seneca Rocks and Champe Rocks Yeager Airport to train mountain troops in assault climbing in Charleston, WV preparation for action in Italy. One guidebook 3 hours author estimates the Army left behind Charlotte 5 hrs, 20 mins approximately 75,000 soft iron pitons, some of which can still be found on the rocks. Columbus 4 hrs, 40 mins Modern Via Ferrata climbers each receive Pittsburgh safety briefings, instruction, and equipment 3 hours fitting beforehand. Climbers must be at least Washington, DC 13 years old and in good physical condition. 3 hrs, 10 mins There is much more to NROCKS than the Via Toronto, Canada Ferrata, however. Located just 50 minutes from 8 hours the Canaan Valley area and 15 miles south of Seneca Rocks, NROCKS also offers a breathtaking canopy tour ride on a 1,000-foot zip line, in which you can cruise through the air at 25 miles per hour. Professionally trained NROCKS staff will ensure your safety and help guide you through the Via Ferrata and canopy tour. There’s also a 24-foot climbing wall, a slackline progression area, and plenty of hiking trails for all ages. On-site lodging—including an inn and cabins—is available, too. NROCKS offers special rates and packages for groups. 141 Nelson Gap Road, Circleville; 877.435.4842; nelsonrocks.org

NROCKS

Real. ADVENTURE

WINTER ESCAPE

ADVENTURES ON THE GORGE

Winter is king in West Virginia. With elevations reaching more than 4,000 feet, majestic sloping terrain, and an abundance of snow, the Mountain State is the place to be when the flakes start to fall.

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Real. WINTER ESCAPE

Get the Drift

CARLA WITT FORD

Snowmobiling in West Virginia is a little-known source of high-octane winter excitement.

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t 4,500 feet the winter wind on the Highland Scenic Highway doesn’t just howl, it keens. Sweeping up the valleys and over the ridges, the cold and snow are legendary in the upper elevations of Pocahontas County. But the men and women you’ll find hugging the curves of this snaky little road through the heart of the Monongahela National Forest, barreling through drifts on Arctic Cats and Yamahas, don’t seem to care. Throw it all at them. They thrive on this weather. “Being a West Virginia native, I bought my first snowmobile probably in the mid-’80s,” says Andy Gibson, outdoor adventure lead supervisor at Snowshoe Mountain, one of the state’s premier four-season resort destinations. A man with 25 or so years of snowmobiling under his belt, Gibson talks about his level of experience like it’s nothing special. Still, his unofficial title is “outdoor adventure guru,” and he takes winter sports very seriously. “It was just another form of transportation in the winter. It was something we always did, but it’s also a lot of fun, so it became something of a passion of mine.” Although snowmobilers near and far travel to Timberline Four Seasons Resort in Tucker County every March for the resort’s annual slope-side race, Gibson says the parkway section of West Virginia Route 150—also known as the Highland Scenic Highway—is one of the few public places in West Virginia where snowmobiles have free rein. It’s one of the best-kept secrets in the region. “The scenic highway runs through some of the most beautiful terrain in the Monongahela National Forest. The parkway section of the route, which snowmobilers frequent, follows the ridgeline for about 22 miles. In the wintertime they don’t plow it. They just put up a sign that says ‘No Snow Removal Beyond This Point.’” Once the signs go up, Gibson says, the sledheads appear, and wheeled traffic virtually disappears as everything from Cranberry Glades to Seneca Rocks gets painted over in white and the wind whips it all into dramatic drifts and valleys. Riders are restricted to the roadway only, but Gibson says that’s never been a deterrent among snowmobiling enthusiasts. “You can get miles and miles of great riding in,” he says. “And the views are amazing.” True, most wouldn’t think of West Virginia as a destination for this motorized winter sport, but for many who live among the ridgetops it’s a way of life. West Virginia has vast swaths of protected lands where snowmobiles are not permitted, and warmer winter weather in the southern counties means snowfall isn’t always adequate. But, Gibson says, things are different in the highlands. “With the elevations and the extreme winter weather, if folks have access to the mountaintops and if they use an ATV, chances are they have a snowmobile, too,” he says. “They have to.” And novice snowmobilers are in luck in the state. In fact, Snowshoe Mountain’s three distinct snowmobiling adventure tours attract nearly 2,500 people of all experience levels every year. This sport is even touted as one of the resort’s most popular winter activities. “We’ve been doing snowmobile tours since the late 1990s,” says Ben Brannon, outdoor adventure manager at Snowshoe. “A lot of our guests have never ridden before. They’re often southern skiers

who rarely see snow in their home states, and rarely get to go out in it. Snowmobiling here is a very immersive experience for them.” Brannon, a native of Ohio, didn’t start snowmobiling until he came to work at Snowshoe and learned the hard way that winters here can be tough. “My first winter here it was like, ‘This is your only transportation.’ So on a daily basis I was getting myself and my supplies back and forth primarily using a snowmobile. It was a steep learning curve, but once I got it, it was a lot of fun.” Snowmobiling isn’t for everyone, Brannon says, but he’s confident that a tour at Snowshoe can get nearly anyone up and running. “It’s an active riding machine. You can’t just sit on it and steer. There’s motion involved—you have to lean into turns and move around in the seat. In challenging terrain we even teach people how to stand up and shift their weight. You can’t be timid on it. When the snow is deep, you have to keep that momentum.” Snowshoe is famous for its skiing, snowcat tours, tubing, and off-road Polaris RZR adventures, but snowmobiling offers high-octane excitement on the level of jet skiing or ATV riding, set in the awe-inspiring winter wonderland of Pocahontas County. “These people are looking for something a little faster, a little more challenging,” Gibson says. “If they go with us, we’re going to teach them everything they need to know to control the machine—proper leaning, how to accelerate on the turns, and how to brake. We’ll even supply the helmets. They just have to bring proper footwear, gloves, and layers—lots of layers.” For first-timers and families, Brannon recommends the resort’s most popular product—the evening tour along Snowshoe’s basin. “This is where we do a one-hour tour on the slopes where it’s snowmaking-supported. It’s a great introduction to the sport and it’s perfect for families because children can ride as well,” he says. Led by expert guide staff, the tour begins with a full safety briefing and ample time to practice before a group is allowed to move out onto the slopes. “We get everyone comfortable, starting with safety and a briefing on the machine. Then we do practice laps and we make sure everyone is confident,” Brannon says. “The tour guides spend a lot of energy making sure guests are comfortable and having a good time.” Available mid-December to end of March, the one-hour basin tour even permits families with children as young as 6 and as old as 15 to ride as passengers over fun but accessible terrain—gentle inclines, declines, and side slopes that allow riders to take in sweeping views of the resort and the snow-dusted mountains beyond. But if you’d rather ride with sun and blue winter skies overhead, the daytime backcountry family tour is another great option, and both children and adults can ride as passengers. Also great for novice snowmobilers, guides start with safety and the pace is slow, progressing as riders gain confidence moving through scenic vistas—photo-ops included—and sparkling wilderness trails. “When guests arrive and go through the check-in process, we actually have a demo machine and we’ll start off discussing correct riding style and best practices and be able to demonstrate on the machine all the techniques that are going to serve them best,” Brannon says. “It’s an opportunity for people to get themselves comfortable in their minds. gotowv.com 89

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Then we get people on the machines and go through the controls with each individual. Once people understand the basics, we run at least two practice laps through all the types of terrain, so everyone can feel all the motions they will experience on the tour. In these beginner tours, if we see someone who looks like they aren’t completely comfortable, this is our opportunity to help them gain confidence with the machine. The pace is really ANDY GIBSON, outdoor adventure lead geared toward the lowest level supervisor at Snowshoe Mountain of confidence in the group, but if we have varying ability levels, we can split it up and make sure everyone has a good time.” The nearly two-hour backcountry family tour is weather-dependent, however, so Brannon recommends signing up for a basin tour and asking about upgrading later if the weather looks promising. “Typically it takes a couple snowfalls. But we generally know when the weather is going to give us what we need. We try to make that determination at least a week out and get our inventory ready.” If you’d rather venture off the map entirely and you have the confidence to pull it off, Snowshoe has a snowmobiling product Brannon refers to as the backcountry adventure. This tour also depends on weather and can take up to two hours. Passengers are not allowed. “Because of the varied terrain, it’s more dangerous to have passengers. It increases the chances of a rollover,” he says. Although he recommends tour guests have some snowmobiling experience, if you’ve ridden ATVs, jet skis, or motorcycles, you’ll probably catch on fast. This tour covers 15 to 20 miles of somewhat unpredictable terrain—deep snowfields, narrow hill climbs, fire roads, towering old growth spruce forests, and even frozen creek crossings under the right conditions. “In terms of the backcountry, the terrain range is quite large, which is what makes Snowshoe such a great destination for snowmobiling once the snow really hits.” No one would disagree that West Virginia’s often extreme terrain carries with it unique challenges, but Gibson says that’s what makes it such a fun experience for anyone who ventures to try gas-powered winter fun. “A snowmobile is its own beast, its own machine. There are little quirks and nuances you need to know about. But by the end of an hour we can have almost anyone riding like a pro.” Brannon says it’s rare they find someone who walks away from a snowmobiling experience unhappy. “The reactions we see are smiles ear to ear. Even the most inexperienced will walk away saying, ‘Wow, that was awesome.’” timberlineresort.com, snowshoemtn.com 90 explore • 2016

SNOWSHOE MOUNTAIN RESORT

A snowmobile is its own beast, its own machine. There are little quirks and nuances you need to know about. But by the end of an hour we can have almost anyone riding like a pro.”

Snowshoe Mountain Resort

TRAVEL TIMES

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 3 hours Charlotte 5 hrs, 10 mins Columbus 4 hrs, 50 mins Pittsburgh 3 hrs, 40 mins Washington, DC 4 hrs, 20 mins Toronto, Canada 8 hrs, 20 mins

SNOWSHOE MOUNTAIN RESORT is the Mid-Atlantic and Southeast’s premier winter destination—a wintertime Disneyland. It sits like a Swiss village at the top of Snowshoe Mountain off U.S. Route 219, and on clear days the views are breathtaking. Upscale lodges, restaurants, and shops line the wide cobblestone and bricked walkways that make up the Village, giving it a quaint and pedestrian-friendly atmosphere. An average of 180 inches of snow falls in the Snowshoe area, covering 251 acres—60 acres of slopes and trails accessible from 15 different lifts. Seasoned ski and snowboard pros flock to the western territory of the resort, including the legendary Cupp Run and Shay’s Revenge. Beginners will be glad to find suitable terrain for unsteady legs in the northern tract, which includes learner trails like Yew Pine, Gangway, and Log Slide. Although ski aficionados come for the powder, non-skiers are equally entertained. Nature lovers prize West Virginia’s huge tracts of undeveloped land, scenic rivers, frozen lakes, and seemingly endless woods. For a behind-the-scenes look at the ski resort after dark, take a picturesque snowcat tour. A snowcat is a large tracked vehicle with an enclosed heated cab that grooms the snow. You sit up high, protected from winds, as your tour takes you down the slopes to Shavers Lake with a brief stop at the Compressor House, where a veteran snowmaker will share the magic of snowmaking. If you want to enjoy the wild, wonderful winter landscape without the speed, strap on snowshoes and enjoy an afternoon excursion through rugged backcountry on 26 miles of marked trails. Follow the trail that leads you to Shavers Lake or the Sunrise Backcountry Hut to reward yourself with a cup of hot chocolate. Maybe it’s cold outside, but that doesn’t mean you can’t take a dip. With indoor and outdoor swimming areas, Split Rock Pools is the place to unwind. You can swim outside as the snow falls and steam swirls around you. Children love the geyser and water-filled whiskey barrel and slides, and adults enjoy the large hot tubs and sauna. 10 Snowshoe Drive, Snowshoe; 877.441.4386; snowshoemtn.com

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Travel to Helvetia For a taste of Switzerland, visit the charming hamlet of Helvetia.

HIDDEN IN THE RANDOLPH COUNTY HILLS is a tiny unincorpo-

rated area called Helvetia—a place with fewer than 60 people according to the U.S. Census, but enough heart and creativity to fill any big city. Well off the beaten path, this rural community’s origin dates back to the late 1860s when Swiss immigrants settled the area, and it just might be one of the most charming and unique spots in the state. The Helvetia Village Historic District was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1978. The village’s traditions have been kept alive for many decades, even as the population dwindled from hundreds to a few dozen. Helvetia is known for its square dances, yodeling, and, perhaps most famously, its Fasnacht celebration, which takes place the Saturday before Ash Wednesday. The whole town—not to mention people from all over the U.S. and the world—gather in Helvetia for a lively party that ends around a bonfire where patrons burn “Old Man Winter.” “It’s a celebration our ancestors brought here with them,” says Kevin Betler, who manages a Fasnacht mask museum in the Kultur Haus (Culture House) in Helvetia. “It’s almost like Mardi Gras. It has grown into a huge deal and a lot of people come. They make beautiful, papier-mâché masks.” Fasnacht, or carnival, in Switzerland is a joyful time when participants seize the day in masks and costumes that some say help them take on new identities as they parade through town, often singing, dancing, and playing music. Like the tradition of mask-making in Helvetia, music and Play The Feast of Sankt Nich- upstairs deck. The old house is filled with antiques and books and dance can be traced back olaus takes place at the Helvetia was originally built by a beekeeper Community Hall on the first Saturto the village’s first days. from Switzerland. Breakfast is day in December. 304.924.6149 Area children grow up served at The Hutte. 304.924.6435 The Maple Syrup Festival in The Alpen Lodge is located in learning to perform, and nearby Pickens occurs every March. Kultur Haus Helvetia. One downMark your calendars for the next they have no fear of takstairs room and three upstairs Mountain Dance Trail’s dance in ing the stage. It’s second rooms are available, and visitors Helvetia. mountaindancetrail.org may stay for a donation. All guests nature to them. Every Visit the beautiful, historic share the kitchen, dining room, and square which includes the library, month, a square dance schoolhouse, museum, and gazebo. living room. The first floor sleeping takes place in Helvetia room has a private bathroom. Visitors are always welcome to The upstairs rooms have corner as part of the Mountain stroll around the village and take in locations and share one bathroom the old log buildings. Dance Trail Program. and the front porch. The upper Helvetia is located off floor was built as a boarding house. Stay The historic Beekeeper Guests have access to wireless Route 46 in Randolph Inn (circa 1870) has three bedInternet and research materials. rooms with private baths, a large County, about an hour 304.924.9100 living room, a kitchen, and an southwest of Elkins.

Travel Tips

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Eat Browse the hearty menu at The Hutte, including many homemade Swiss specialties, and take in the many Swiss and American antiques that surround you in this charming old house. Some say the Sunday brunch, a country buffet called “Bernerplatte,” is one of the state’s most unique dining experiences. Call for reservations. 304.924.6435

Before you go

Cell phone service is spotty, and if you go in winter, drive slowly.

NIKKI BOWMAN

Shop The Kultur Haus (Culture House) is where you’ll find the general store as well as the post office, mask museum, and Alpen Lodge.

MUST SEE

Mountain State’s Mardi Gras

On the Saturday before Ash Wednesday, the tiny village of Helvetia takes on otherworldly charms. IF YOU ASK SOMEONE if they’ve ever been to Fasnacht, they will probably reply, “FAHS-WHAT?” But if you are in the know and have participated in Helvetia’s version of Mardi Gras, you understand that it is one of the state’s most unique festivals—and you’ve probably already marked your calendar for this year’s celebration. “Fasnacht,” which means “Fast Night,” is a 150-year-old Swiss tradition that heralds spring in by burning Old Man Winter. This pre-Lenten celebration involves elaborate handmade costumes and masks. From witches to elephants to unicorns, devotees from all over the state begin fabricating whimsical, scary,

TRAVEL TIMES

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 2 hrs, 20 mins Charlotte 5 hrs, 30 mins Columbus 4 hrs, 20 mins Pittsburgh 3 hours Washington, DC 4 hrs, 30 mins Toronto, Canada 7 hrs, 40 mins

or otherworldly papier-mâché masks months in advance. The results are often elaborate works of art. Morgantown native Mike Roh has attended Fasnacht every year since 1992. “Helvetia is a magical place,” he says. “There is no question that by coming to Helvetia you are exposed to an interesting blend of Swiss and Appalachian culture that you can’t find anywhere else. It is a neat getaway for a lot of people, and Fasnacht is an amazing experience.” When you attend, start your evening early with a reservation at The Hutte, a charming Swiss-German restaurant. Reservations are recommended as this village anchor books up months in advance. A smorgasbord of comforting Swiss and German foods are served buffet-style in the charming cottage that also serves as a museum of sorts—the walls are covered with antiques, artifacts, and masks from the past. After you’ve feasted on bratwurst, roasted chicken, mashed potatoes, sauerkraut, fried apples, and a bevy of cheeses and breads, you’ll want to meander through the tiny village. Visit the historic

square, which includes the schoolhouse, library, gazebo, and museum, before heading to the Star Band Hall, where libations, live music, and masked goblins and animals gather. At 8:30 p.m., the night sky, often punctuated with snow flurries, is illuminated with lanterns and candles as the participants parade from the Star Band Hall to the Community Hall, where the costumes are judged while the participants march around the room. Each vies for one of the coveted awards; a small Swiss flag. “My favorite part is the parade. I love seeing all the masks come together,” says Roh, who created his large elaborate elephant mask from chicken wire and papier-mâché. “Every year the masks have gotten more elaborate. You will see the most incredible works of art, and then you’ll see a mask created by a 5-year-old that is just as charming.” As everyone gathers at the Community Hall, traditional Swiss pastries like Hozablatz, rosettes, and fried doughnuts are served. Banjo and fiddle music keeps the crowd lively, and a festive masquerade ball and square dance follows until midnight when Old Man Winter, fashioned from newspapers and straw stuffed into old clothes, is ceremoniously cut down from the center of the room and thrown into a large bonfire as the crowd cheers. “You’d think you’d get tired of it, year after year— but you don’t,” Roh says. “It never ceases to amaze me. One of the great things about Fasnacht is that a bunch of total strangers come together and find a common bond. It is always hard to leave Helvetia.”

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Glade Springs

NEARBY STAY

HEADING IN from out of town and want to spend the night? Accommodations and special packages are available at Winterplace’s sister property, The Resort at Glade Springs, which provides free shuttle service between the two resorts. Glade Springs offers hotel rooms and suites along with private villas and top-notch amenities. 866.562.8054; gladesprings.com

TRAVEL TIMES

There’s more than one way to enjoy the slopes at Winterplace Resort.

WHETHER YOU ARE AN AVID SKIER who’d like to extend the fun after a day on the slopes or you are a non-skier who still likes a little snow thrill, West Virginia’s Winterplace Resort is a great spot to experience an adrenaline rush—tube style. The resort in Ghent, just south of Beckley, with a top elevation of 3,600 feet and 27 ski slopes, also is home to West Virginia’s largest snowtubing park. And unlike your sledding days of childhood, you don’t have to huff and puff your way back to the top of the hill from the bottom. The resort features two conveyor lifts that tote you back to the top, tube and all. Winterplace’s tubing tracks are groomed to include curves and walls known as whoop-de-doos to add to the thrill of your ride. This is truly fun for all ages—well, as long you are at least 44 inches tall. The resort has a separate kiddie tubing park for the younger set, open depending on snow conditions. Admission to the kiddie park is just $5. Equipment is simple. You wear the warm clothes—you can 94 explore • 2016

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rent ski bibs at the lodge for $10—and Winterplace provides the sturdy handled rubber tubes. There’s no training necessary and the user-friendly tubes are accessible to most, no athletic ability necessary, and absorb many of the bumps along the way. The tube park is open seven days a week from mid-December to March, depending on weather conditions. It’s always a good idea to call ahead or check the website first. Rates are tiered to how long you wish to tube. The tube runs end near the Mountainhouse lodge, where you can head to warm up or get a bite to eat between runs. Tubing is especially fun after dark, when you’re worn out from the slopes or prefer not to ski, and runs are well-lit for nighttime adventurers. The resort offers a special rate of $14.50 for two hours of tubing to skiers who purchase a pass when they purchase their lift tickets. Winterplace Resort is located just 5 minutes from Interstate 77; take exit 28 at Flat Top/Ghent and follow the signs to the resort. 100 Old Flat Top Mountain Road, Ghent; 800.607.7669; winterplace.com

WINTERPLACE RESORT

Down the Tubes

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 1 hr, 20 mins

Winter Wonders There’s more to winter than staying cozy in front of the fire.

OGLEBAY PARK RESORT

THERE’S A REASON we don’t use the term “wonderland” for any season other than winter. When the temperature drops and the landscape is covered in snow, the whole world can feel different than it did just a few days before. It’s a time for all sorts of things you couldn’t—or wouldn’t—bother to do any other time of the year. Slow down and look, really look, at the Christmas lights. Drink hot chocolate. Throw yourself down the side of a hill on your stomach. Here are some suggestions for making the most of the season in the Mountain State.

Winter Festival of Lights at Oglebay The Winter Festival of Lights has been a family tradition for many West Virginians since it began in 1985. More than 80 awe-inspiring light displays—including cartoon characters and an enormous polyhedron star consisting of more than 2,000 lights—line the six-mile driving tour, covering more than 300 acres. For years, Rocky Burks brought his family from out of state to see the Festival of Lights, and each year he’d catch a glimpse of Wilson Lodge and wonder what it would be like to “live” in the light display.

“My children would always ask me what that big building was next to all of the lit-up gingerbread houses, and they had a hard time believing me when I said it was a place where people could stay the night,” he says. “One year I finally bit the bullet and reserved a few rooms overlooking part of the display. You would have thought I had given my children their very own tickets to the North Pole. It’s been a few years since we last stayed there, but they still call the light show ‘our lights’ whenever they see them on TV.” 465 Lodge Drive, Wheeling; 304.243.4000; oglebay-resort.com Ice Skating at The Greenbrier In winter, The Greenbrier looks like a Christmas card. With its elegant architecture, manicured grounds, and lavish decorations, there’s nowhere more classically picturesque to spend the season. And in such a setting, what activity could be more perfect than ice skating? The Greenbrier’s ice rink is open daily to the general public, but is complimentary for resort guests—although you’ll still have to pay to rent some skates. 300 West Main Street, White Sulphur Springs; 855.453.4858; greenbrier.com Cardboard and Duct Tape Sled Race at Blackwater Falls State Park This annual event pits riders of all ages against one another in a descent of the sledding hill at Blackwater Falls State Park. There’s only one catch: no pre-made sleds allowed. In fact, nothing is allowed but cardboard and duct tape. The mission is to design and build a person-powered sled that can withstand the ride. Prizes are given to the sled that is the first to make it to the finish line, the sled that is the most visually appealing, and the team that is having the most fun. 1584 Blackwater Lodge Road, Davis; 304.259.5216; blackwaterfalls.com gotowv.com 95

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TRAVELING ALONG U.S. 219 to West Virginia Route 32 brings

you through the Canaan Valley area, the highest valley east of the Mississippi, encompassing some of the most majestic scenery in the highlands, with pockets of art, music, and culture akin to something you might find in more bustling areas. Here, travel destinations outnumber traffic lights four to one, but with attractions like the tumbling headwaters of the Blackwater River and two ski resorts to explore, visitors will be hard-pressed to fit it all in. The story of settlement in this upland valley begins with a local legend. Sometime in the mid-1700s, a hunter, tracking one of the area’s large black bears, stumbled upon a break in the trees overlooking a vast tract of thick red spruce forest, shimmering wetlands, and grassy plains. So overcome with its wild beauty, the man involuntarily cried out, “Behold! The Land of Canaan!” And the name stuck. Talk to any visitor from a northern climate, and they’ll tell you parts of Tucker County feel more like a valley in Switzerland or a mountaintop in Canada than anywhere in West Virginia. At elevations reaching more than 4,200 feet, the wildlife of the region have become uniquely adapted to a cold, moist climate normally found much farther north. Species like the Cheat Mountain Salamander—found on only a few secluded ridge tops in West Virginia—and the West Virginia Northern Flying Squirrel—a prehistoric subspecies as old as the mastodon—make their home in this part of West Virginia. Canaan Valley was designated as a National Natural Landmark in 1974 and a portion was later preserved as a national wildlife refuge. The Canaan Valley Wildlife Refuge (6263 Appalachian Highway, Davis; 304.866.3858; fws.gov/canaanvalley) became the 500th refuge of its kind in 1994 with the purchase of 86 acres. Today, the refuge encompasses approximately 17,000 acres. One of two biologists at Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge, wildlife biologist Marquette Crockett, talks about rare animals and plants with reverence. “We have so many rare species you won’t find anywhere else in the state,” she says. “This combination of high elevation and heavy rain is truly unique.” 96 explore • 2016

STEVE SHALUTA PHOTOGRAPHY; AMBERLEE CHRISTEY PHOTOGRAPHY

Promised Land

Home to one of West Virginia’s most visited state parks, the Canaan Valley Resort and Conference Center was recently named among the “50 Great Places to Stay” in Washingtonian magazine. It boasts a newly revamped and expanded lodge and 23 cabins. And with more than 40 trails for every level of skier or snowboarder and a summit elevation of 4,280 feet, Canaan Valley Resort is a prime winter destination. If you have a knack for grace, try TRAVEL TIMES cross-country skiing or snowshoeing, or grab a pair of skates and take Yeager Airport part in a 4,000-year-old art form— Charleston, WV one of the most popular wintertime 2 hrs, 50 mins sports at Canaan Valley Resort. A Charlotte covered, outdoor ice-skating rink 6 hrs, 10 mins overlooking the valley is the picture Columbus 4 hrs, 30 mins perfect place to master salchows, Pittsburgh spins, and figure eights. Afterward, 3 hours catch your breath at the outdoor Washington, DC fireplace and enjoy a cup of hot 3 hrs, 10 mins chocolate. 230 Main Lodge Road, Toronto, Canada Davis; 800.622.4121; 304.866.4121; 7 hrs, 30 mins canaanresort.com

CrossCountry Couture CROSS-COUNTRY SPORTS may not have the glamour of their downhill cousins, but cross-country skiing and snowshoeing are two of the best ways to experience the beauty of West Virginia. If you’re looking for a truly unique cross-country experience, check out White Grass Ski Touring Center in the Cabin Mountain range of the High Alleghenies. Less than five miles from Canaan Valley Resort, this locally owned and operated cross-country ski touring center offers acres of trails, ski rentals, classes, a backcountry ski specialty shop, and a down-home café serving all-natural lunches and dinners by reservation throughout the winter. Take in the beauty of the Dolly Sods Wilderness as you trek across the backcountry. And don’t forget Fido. Dogs are welcome in many areas at White Grass. Cross-country novices never fear—White Grass’s ski school is fun and exciting. Learn everything from skating to telemark skiing, or sign up for a guided high country tour complete with instructions and local lore. 643 Weiss Knob Road, Davis; 304.866.4114; whitegrass.com

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Touring Timberline This laid-back resort is nestled into the West Virginia wilderness.

IN WEST VIRGINIA, mentioning Timberline conjures visions of

pine needles, wooded trails, hot cocoa, and beautiful terrain. “It’s just beautiful—it makes you feel good,” says Stephen Schimpff, who owns a vacation home at Timberline and has researched the history of the area. “It’s wonderful. Just think of all the stuff that’s available there.” When people talk about Timberline they’re often using it as a blanket term to describe two things: Timberline Four Seasons Resort and the Timberline residential and vacation community—often called “Old Timberline” by locals. Today the two Timberlines operate independently, but they’re nestled into the mountains together, side by side. And they have a shared history. “I’d say the two feed off one another,” says Marilyn Shoenfeld, president of the Timberline Association, the homeowners’ association at Old Timberline. Old Timberline David Downs, who developed the property that would later become Timberline, learned to ski in the Canaan Valley, at the ski slopes at Canaan Valley Resort State Park. This was sometime in the 1970s, when Downs was still in his 20s, and he fell in love with the valley immediately. “It’s just the most beautiful area,” he says. “It’s a high elevation, there’s lots of snow, there are the mountains—it’s like taking the best of New England but having it right here in West Virginia.” Then one of Downs’ colleagues stumbled onto a huge chunk of land in the Canaan Valley that was up for sale—a 1,700-acre tract that belonged to the heirs of a couple who had purchased the land in 1906 for a farmstead. Downs jumped at the chance to buy it. He named his new development Timberline after he saw a brand of aftershave with that name—he liked the ring of it. His mother, an artist, designed the logo, and it’s still being used by the resort today. Originally his idea for Timberline was simple. Downs would form a community in the valley and sell off five-acre lots. Today Timberline is divided into more than 450 lots, and all but 90 of those have homes on them—some are full-time residences, and many are vacation homes. He also set aside 500 acres in the center of the community to form a nature conservancy. “We wanted it to be a nature-oriented community,” he says. That conservancy is still intact today, complete with two lakes and walking trails that connect with Dolly Sods and the Canaan Valley Wildlife Refuge.

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New Timberline Not long after he TRAVEL TIMES started development on his real estate project at Old Timberline, Downs started eyeing the Yeager Airport north face of a mountain on his property, Cabin Charleston, WV Mountain. It didn’t get direct sunlight, so snow 2 hrs, 50 mins lingered there. This mountain had a 1,000Charlotte 6 hrs, 10 mins foot vertical drop—that’s a critical metric in the world of ski resorts, and 1,000 feet is a Columbus 4 hrs, 30 mins respectable drop for an Eastern resort. The ski Pittsburgh resort at Timberline opened in 1982 with a bar, 3 hours small lodge, ski trails, and simple ski lift. Two Washington, DC years later Downs sold the resort section of the 3 hrs, 10 mins mountain, and in the years since Timberline Toronto, Canada Four Seasons Resort has come into its own. 7 hrs, 30 mins There are now 39 ski slopes on the mountain, each equipped with snowmaking equipment—which means a steady supply of snow all winter long. And it’s become known for glade skiing—that’s skiing that happens not on wide trails cut into the mountain, but instead in the wooded areas in between them. “You can go into the mountains and ski and make your own trail,” says Bobby Snyder, the director of Timberline’s ski school. “People love that because they feel like they’re out in the wilderness a little bit instead of on the groomed trail.” Most mountains are too rocky or bushy to allow much glade skiing, but Timberline doesn’t have that problem. Snyder says 80 percent of the mountain is open for it. It’s not all about skiing, though. During warmer months Timberline is open to bicycles—mountain bikers can catch a ride to the top of the mountain on the ski lift and work their way back down the mountain, while cross-country cyclers have 10 miles of wooded trails at their disposal. There’s also horseback riding at Timberline Stables, and a new zip line called Timber Zips—the line is 1,000 feet long and more than 50 feet high. Plus, Timberline is really close to a lot of other great outdoor adventure spots. You can hike at Dolly Sods or whitewater raft on the Blackwater River. It’s also near the small towns of Davis and Thomas, which have become charming little artists’ communities. Both towns are dotted with locally owned restaurants, breweries, and retail shops. 254 Four Seasons Drive, Davis; 304.866.4801; timberlineresort.com

NIKKI BOWMAN

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Pushing the Limit

IN THE DEAD CENTER of a ring of ice, two hockey players in thick shoulder pads and helmets crouch forward, balancing on thin blades. The ref drops the puck, a snap echoes off the boards, and in a blur of motion, it’s gone—one player gaining control just fractions of a second faster than the other. Then the rink comes alive—a dozen players flying, passing, pushing, fighting for the upper hand. A scuffle breaks out, the gloves come off, and a ref rushes in to break it up. But the puck is still moving, still shooting across the ice. A minute more and someone’s made a goal—a flick of a stick and it’s in. The crowd surges to its feet, some roaring approval, others disapproval. Loyalties are fierce in this game. That’s what makes it so addictive. “I think it’s the toughest sport around,” says longtime hockey fan and Lansing, Ohio, resident Jim Hench. “Physically, it’s tough. You’re going all the time, constantly moving and getting hit. And you have the puck going 100 miles per hour at you.” Even with the fast pace, Hench says it’s still a great spectator sport. “It’s family-oriented. You can take young kids, older kids, parents. It’s just a blast,” he says. His favorite team: The Wheeling Nailers, a West Virginia organization since the early 1990s and the oldest ongoing minor league franchise under the American Hockey League (AHL). Hench hasn’t missed a Nailers home game in 10 years and lives just across the river from Wheeling’s WesBanco Arena, where they play. As president of the team’s booster club, you’ll find him at nearly every home game handing out raffle tickets and encouraging patrons to learn more about the sport. “When people first come to a game, 100 explore • 2016

they think you just throw the puck down and bring it back. There’s a lot more going on. If you learn a few basic rules and can follow along, it’s a lot more exciting.” The Nailers are a force to be reckoned with in the ECHL (formerly known as the East Coast Hockey League). The team attracts some of the highest-quality players—49 have gone on to the NHL—and the players put on a fun, high-adrenaline game for fans each night. “We’re truly a developmental team. We have a lot of guys who come here wanting to get to the next level and we provide that opportunity for them no matter how long they’re with us,” says Nailers Head Coach Clark Donatelli. “First and foremost, it’s really good entertainment for the dollar. We’re a hard-hitting team, we score, and we have NHL-contracted goalies.” But the team hasn’t thrived this long on the strength of its game alone. It’s also become a fixture in Wheeling, participating in charity events, fundraisers, and youth hockey programs. Players also regularly make special appearances at schools and hospitals. Not to mention the economic impact the team has on local businesses. That’s one reason its loyal fan base continues to grow. “We really want to make sure the fans feel like they’re involved and can make that one-on-one connection,” says DJ Abisalih, radio broadcaster and director of media and community relations with the Nailers. “You don’t just want people to come to the games and know players by their numbers. You want them to know that these players have become part of the community.” 304.234.4625; wheelingnailers.com

ZACK RAWSON

The Wheeling Nailers are a hard-hitting, fan-pleasing force to be reckoned with.

DISCOVERY

CARLA WITT FORD

Come find out what “Take Me Home, Country Roads” is all about.

Enjoy the fall foliage along West Virginia Route 32.

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Adventures can be found around every bend of West Virginia’s country roads.

Virginia, and there’s plenty to see if you’re in the mood to cruise. Here are a few suggested road trips when you’re ready to fill up the tank and put the top down.

NIKKI BOWMAN

THERE ARE NEARLY 40,000 MILES of public roads in West

Highland Scenic Highway overlooks

Highland Scenic Highway

700 acres of wetlands with four scenic overlooks, waterfalls, and bogs

THIS 43-MILE STRETCH OF HIGHWAY

runs from Richwood to U.S. Route 219, winding through the dense hardwood forest of the Monongahela National Forest and rising from an elevation of 2,300 feet to more than 4,500 feet. Beginning in Richwood, take West Richwood Virginia Route 150 for 21 miles to the Cranberry Mountain Nature Center. Stretch your legs during a tour of the center’s native plant garden or take a stroll on the Cranberry Mountain nature trail. If it’s a Sunday, check out one of Nature Center the live snake shows held most Sundays at 1 Nature trails and native p.m. from late May to early October. plant garden After leaving the Cranberry Mountain Nature Center, you will then turn onto Route 150’s Parkway section for 22 miles. Although the parkway provides picturesque views with every turn, this section of highway also features four scenic overlooks, so be sure to pull over for expansive views of the Allegheny Mountains. Once you’ve reached U.S. Route 219, travel south about seven miles to Marlinton, where you can grab something to eat at hip local eatery Dirtbean or spend a night at the Locust Inn Cabin and Pub, which also serves up high-class dinners for its guests.

219

Marlinton Home of the Autumn Harvest Festival

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Real. DISCOVERY

Milton Home of the Blenko Glass factory

The Midland Trail

Huntington The college town of the Marshall University Thundering Herd

THE 180-MILE MIDLAND TRAIL National Scenic Byway is a great way to see a significant slice of southern West Virginia. Cutting through six counties from the Ohio River all the way to the Virginia border, you could spend days exploring the many dining, shopping, and historical sites along the way. Start at mile marker 0 on U.S. Route 60 in Kenova—a town named for its location on the Kentucky/Ohio/West Virginia border. Heading east you’ll pass through Huntington, a college town with lots of Kenova history. Check out the antique shops on the Named for its city’s up-and-coming West End, visit the location at the Huntington Museum of Art, or dine at meeting point Black Sheep Burritos. Or if the Marshall of Kentucky, University Thundering Herd are in town, Ohio, and catch a football game. A little farther down West Virginia the road you’ll come to Milton, home of Blenko Glass. The factory is open to visitors, so take a look around before stopping by the gift shop for your own piece of brightly colored blown glass. At mile 56 you will enter West Virginia’s capital city, Charleston. Check out the brick sidewalks of Capitol Street, where you’ll find several local restaurants and boutiques. And don’t forget to stop by the gold-domed Capitol building for a tour of one of the most beautiful statehouses in the country. Heading east from Charleston you will pass through towns like Malden, boyhood home of Booker T. Washington, and Cedar Grove, the Midland Trail’s original terminus when the road was commissioned by George Washington. Stop for photos at Kanawha Falls—that’s at mile 93—and stop at the Mystery Hole at mile 100 for one of the renowned tourist trap’s famous bumper stickers. More picture-worthy views will come into focus at Hawks Nest State Park, mile 104, and Babcock State Park, mile 120, where you can find the much-photographed Glade Creek Grist Mill. You’ll know it when you see it. Your journey is drawing to an end once you reach Lewisburg at mile 162, where you can browse the antiques shops and arts and craft boutiques. Finish at mile 172 in White Sulphur Springs, home to The Greenbrier, the four-star resort that also once housed a top-secret Cold War bunker for the U.S. government.

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Malden Boyhood home of Booker T. Washington

Charleston The capital of West Virginia

Hawks Nest State Park Get a view of the New River from the cliff-top overlook.

Kanawha Falls These long, low falls run all year long.

Babcock State Park Spot of the world-famous Glade Creek Grist Mill

Lewisburg Voted America’s Coolest Small Town

White Sulphur Springs Visit The Greenbrier, a four-star resort.

Mystery Hole “A gravity-defying wonder”

Real. DISCOVERY

Thomas and Davis

Thomas 32

Stop for a pint from the Mountain State Brewing Co. tap room.

Harman

Route 32 through Canaan Valley ROUTE 32 IS A 20-MILE DRIVE from

Harman Take a drive around this little town to see charming sights like the Old Mill and the Harman Church of the Brethren.

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Harman to Thomas. You’ll be driving twisty roads with elevation gains right through the beautiful Canaan Valley State Park, Blackwater Falls State Park, and Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge. You’ll be surrounded by park and forest lands with abundant wildlife, waterfalls, and the hospitable and hip small towns of Thomas and Davis.

River Reflections Tour FOR A VIEW OF WEST VIRGINIA’S fall foliage, start your cruise in Wheeling. Visit Independence Hall, site of West Virginia’s intriguing separation from Virginia, or take a walk through Centre Market Square, a restored Victorian district with an assortment of unique shops. Oglebay Resort offers fine lodging and dining, three golf courses, indoor and outdoor pools, a 65-acre children’s zoo, a museum, and an environmental center. Heading south on West Virginia Route 2 you’ll find the Moundsville Penitentiary, the foreboding former maximum-security lockup that saw more than a few prisoner uprisings. Guests can now take guided tours of the prison—or, if you’re especially adventurous, you can spend the night and try your hand at ghost hunting. Just a little farther south is historic Sistersville, home to the elegant Wells Inn and the Sistersville Ferry, which has operated since 1817. Parkersburg offers late-19th century homes, as well as the carefully restored Blennerhassett Hotel. Park the car for a sternwheeler cruise to the historic Blennerhassett Island, where costumed reenactors weave the tale of Irish aristocrat Harman Blennerhassett and his alleged plot with Aaron Burr to create an empire in the Southwest.

Wheeling Check out Independence Hall.

Sistersville Plan a girls’ trip to Sisters Fest, held each March.

Moundsville Go ghost hunting at the Penitentiary.

Parkersburg Meet the reenactors at historic Blennerhassett Island.

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NIKKI BOWMAN

Real. DISCOVERY

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9 Covered Bridges You Must See in Person

There are few images that embody those rustic olden days of West Virginia like the covered bridge. Thankfully, these pieces of the past aren’t lost to time—and they’re found in nearly every part of the state.

Philippi Covered Bridge, Barbour County Lemuel Chenoweth’s Philippi bridge is notable in many respects. It’s the oldest covered bridge in West Virginia, dating to 1852, and the longest, at 286 feet. It’s one of few surviving “double-barreled,” or two-lane, covered bridges in the U.S. And it’s the only covered bridge in the nation that serves the federal highway system. U.S. Route 250 at Philippi.

Simpson Creek Covered Bridge, Harrison County Today’s Simpson Creek Covered Bridge is a replacement for the 1881 bridge that was destroyed during the 1888 flood. This 1888 bridge, a half-mile upstream of the original crossing, was restored in 2002. Spanning 75 feet, the bridge relies on multiple king post construction and is open to pedestrian and bicycle traffic only. One-quarter mile west of Interstate 79 at Exit 121.

Hern’s Mill Covered Bridge, Greenbrier County The original 1884 structure, built as access to the S.S. Hern Mill near Lewisburg, still stands with reinforcing updates. It uses a queen post design and is 54 feet long. This bridge is still in use today. From Lewisburg center, take U.S. Route 60 northwest 3 miles. Turn left on Bunger’s Mill Road (CR 60/11) and left again on Hern’s Mill Road (CR 40). It’s about a mile to the bridge from there. Staat’s Mill Covered Bridge, Jackson County This 1888 bridge originally crossed Tug Fork of Big Mill Creek and was named for Enoch Staat’s water-powered mill. It was relocated to the Cedar Lakes Conference Center in 1983. It’s 97 feet long and constructed on a Long truss system. It is open only to bicyclists and pedestrians. Cedar Lakes Conference Center, a few miles off Exit 132 or Exit 138 of Interstate 77.

Sharp’s Kissing Bridge, Pocahontas County Sitting across the Big Spring Fork of the Elk River, this 50-foot private bridge was built in 2005 by Ken Gibson for his great-uncle, Dave Sharp, who recounted memories of stealing a kiss on a covered bridge. Pedestrian visitors are welcome. Across U.S. Route 219 from Sharp’s Country Store, 47 miles south of Elkins or 17 miles north of Marlinton. Fletcher Covered Bridge, Harrison County This 1891 bridge is one of just two remaining in Harrison County. The 62-foot span sits atop abutments of stone that were quarried nearby. The builders used a multiple king post construction and the bridge, with modern updates, is in regular use today. From U.S. Route 19 at Clarksburg, take U.S. Route 50 west 7.5 miles. Take Marshville Road (CR 5) north 1.5 miles. The bridge is to the left on CR 529.

Lillydale Covered Bridge, Monroe County The shortest authentic covered bridge in West Virginia at 25 feet, Lillydale was built in 1911. It’s based on the queen post truss. Also known as the Laurel Creek bridge, it was renovated in 2000 and remains open to traffic. From West Virginia Route 3 in Union, drive south on U.S. Route 219 about 3 miles, west on Lillydale Road (CR 219/7) about 3 miles, north on Laurel Creek Road (CR 23/5) about one-half mile, west on Laurel Creek Road (CR 219/11) about one-half mile, and west a short distance on CR 23/4.

Barrackville Covered Bridge, Marion County The 145-foot Barrackville Covered Bridge was built in 1853 by noted West Virginia bridge builder Lemuel Chenoweth and his brother Eli as part of the FairmontWheeling Turnpike. Its Burr arch truss construction gives it a distinctive look. The bridge was restored in 1998 and ’99. It’s accessible for bike and foot traffic only. Two miles west of U.S. Route 19 on U.S. Route 250, then 1 mile north on CR 250/32.

Dent’s Run Covered Bridge, Monongalia County This 40-foot king post truss bridge was built in 1889 and restored in 2004. It is now open for bike and foot traffic only. Three miles west on U.S. Route 19 from Interstate 79 at Exit 152, then north on Sugar Grove Road (CR 43) about a half-mile and west on John Fox Road. gotowv.com 109

Falls in the Fall

THE WATERFALLS OF WEST VIRGINIA are some of the state’s most photographed treasures, and for good reason. From the dark water cascading six stories down into the Blackwater Canyon at Blackwater Falls State Park to the many falls hidden along the Midland Trail National Scenic Byway, the Mountain State offers countless opportunities for breathtaking snapshots. Waterfalls are around every corner near Hawks Nest State Park. Cathedral Falls—one of the state’s tallest waterfalls—is easy to reach, just one mile east of Gauley Bridge and off of U.S. 60. Sandstone Falls, just north of Hinton, spans the New River where it is 1,500 feet wide, and an accessible boardwalk crosses two bridges leading to islands and observation decks. Marsh Fork Falls at Twin Falls Resort State Park can be reached by a short walk from the parking area. Twin Falls Resort State Park is just over 20 miles from Beckley. 110 explore • 2016

The Mountain State’s iconic Blackwater Falls is one of the most photographed sites in all of West Virginia. Who doesn’t want to be photographed against a backdrop of roaring water and beautiful rocks and trees? Walking all the way down to the lowest observation deck at Blackwater Falls is not for the faint of heart—there are 214 steps to the bottom! Look for Elakala Falls while exploring the many trails and treasures at Blackwater Falls State Park. These falls are just a short walk along the Elakala Trail from the lodge. Valley Falls State Park is a beautiful getaway for weddings, reunions, or just an afternoon escapes at the park’s picnic tables and play areas. The foaming falls and vast rock formations are just a short drive from Fairmont and Grafton, where the 1,145-acre park also offers fishing, hiking, mountain biking, and kayaking. Valley Falls was once a lumber and gristmill community and remnants of that remain.

CARLA WITT FORD

This autumn, take in the splendor of West Virginia’s many wonderful waterfalls.

A Friendly Ride Into the Past

HATFIELD MCCOY AIRBOAT TOURS

Airboat tours revisit the infamous Hatfield-McCoy feud.

ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY years ago, the Tug Fork was the backdrop of the Hatfield-McCoy feud. The waterway served as the only barrier between two states—Kentucky and West Virginia—and two families whose infamous conflict lasted nearly 30 years. Today, the Tug Fork is a tranquil place. The soundtrack comes from native flora and fauna—as well as the incessant roar of the supercharged, 550-horsepower engine inside Keith Gibson’s airboat. Gibson, a former coal miner, got the idea for airboat tours after spending time in Florida. He decided one of these boats would be a perfect way to take tourists around the waters he knew well, the Tug Fork. Since 2012, his Hatfield & McCoy Airboat Tours—which run from April 15 to November 15 each year—have offered insight into those bleak earlier days on the river. Gibson already had a pretty good grounding in his subject matter. “Well, I was born and raised here,” he says. “A lot of it I already knew. Just being here, you hear these stories

your whole life. My wife’s grandmother was a TRAVEL TIMES McCoy. I’ve sat down and spoken with members of the Hatfield family and a local historian Yeager Airport named Bill Richardson, who helped with the Charleston, WV (2012 TV miniseries) Hatfields & McCoys.” 1 hr, 40 mins Not everybody who takes his factoid-laden Charlotte ride is looking for a history lesson. “Oh, some 4 hrs, 30 mins people could care less about the history of the Columbus 4 hours Tug Fork,” Gibson says. “I’ll feel them out in Pittsburgh the beginning, and if they don’t care about 4 hrs, 50 mins all of that, I’ll ask, ‘OK, what’s your favorite Washington, DC XM station?’ And then we’ll just listen to that 6 hrs, 20 mins instead. I get a variety of people from all over. Toronto, Canada The ride is so fun for little kids, but we get a 9 hrs, 40 mins surprising amount of older women taking the tour, with the oldest being 95. You have so many people from outside the country who are interested in the history. And some people that are into ATV riding just want to ride.” Gibson says many from outside the region are shocked at the animal life present in the wilderness around Matewan. Once, he had a shock himself: A bald eagle made a cameo appearance during one of his spring tours. But of all the surprises for his customers, there’s one that Gibson is most proud of. “People are always impressed with how friendly the people are here,” he says. “That’s just the way people are in Matewan.” The Tug Fork may have a grim history, but for Gibson, there’s a joy in sharing the tales of the Hatfields and McCoys each morning on the waters of this Big Sandy River tributary. It may still be a dividing line between states, but the river’s never been so inviting. 304.235.9090; hatfieldmccoyairboattours.com gotowv.com 111

Rolling History

The Charleston Boulevard Rod Run & Doo Wop offers a trip to the past. YOU CAN HEAR THEM COMING. Each October the streets of Charleston fill with the rumbling sound of big, powerful engines in big, powerful cars. They roar right off the interstate into downtown and turn onto Kanawha Boulevard. The early birds secure parking spots closest to downtown. Slowpokes might find themselves on the bridge heading into the West Side but, no matter where these hot rods end up parking, gearheads are always in good company. Started in 2006, the city’s annual Charleston Boulevard Rod Run & Doo Wop began as a passion shared by Charleston Mayor Danny Jones and some fellow classic car enthusiasts. The four-day car show 112 explore • 2016

features concerts, lots of food, automotive swap TRAVEL TIMES meets, and raffles—but the real draw is the cars. The event attracts cars of every kind from all Charlotte over the country. Walking the boulevard, you’re 4 hours likely to see an antique Ford Model T parked Columbus next to 1957 Chevy—with a 1970s Plymouth 2 hrs, 40 mins muscle car and a Shelby Cobra kit car not too Pittsburgh far away. The automobiles come in every color 3 hrs, 30 mins of the rainbow, as well as some shades not Washington, DC 5 hrs, 20 mins found in nature. There are faithful restorations Toronto, Canada of classic cars, brand-new luxury cars, and “rat 7 hrs, 50 mins rods” that are more about aesthetic cool than historical accuracy. The Rod Run is now one of the largest car shows east of the Mississippi River, drawing a thousand cars and tens of thousands of visitors each year. Even if you don’t have a show car of your own, the Rod Run & Doo Wop promises a good time for anyone interested in automotive history. Most car owners know their rides inside and out, and they’re more than happy to talk about all the work that goes into keeping these antiques on the road.

CHARLESTON CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU

Real. DISCOVERY

Off-Road at the Greenbrier

THE GREENBRIER MAY BE KNOWN for its genteel white façade

NIKKI BOWMAN

surrounded by immaculately landscaped grounds and a world-renowned golf course, but it has a few secrets—and we aren’t talking about the underground bunker that was built as an emergency shelter for Congress TRAVEL TIMES during the Cold War. Hidden on the resort’s private 10,000-acre mountain preserve is a 30-mile off-road driving course, where Yeager Airport Charleston, WV highly trained guides teach guests to navi1 hr, 50 mins gate the most challenging off-road condiCharlotte tions in specially equipped Jeep Wrangler 3 hrs, 50 mins Rubicons. Unpaved roads give way to rocks Columbus and ruts, creek crossings, mud pits, and 4 hrs, 20 mins steep and slick inclines. Pittsburgh “This isn’t a hit-the-gas-and-go-fast 4 hrs, 10 mins experience. Our guide spent time explainWashington, DC 3 hrs, 50 mins ing the importance of left-foot breaking, Toronto, Canada how to under-steer, and how to select the 8 hrs, 50 mins right gear and use your transmission,” says Michael Mills. “It is an exhilarating trip even for the most skilled off-road enthusiast.” 300 West Main Street, White Sulphur Springs; 855.453.4858; greenbrier.com

Real. DISCOVERY

Off-Road in the Coalfields

RANDY SNYDER

The Hatfield-McCoy Trails system has not only given ATV riders hundreds of miles of remarkable roads; it’s changed the face of southern West Virginia towns.

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the state legislature created the Hatfield-McCoy Regional Recreation Authority to run the trails. The system started with 300 miles in two counties and is now more than 500 miles in eight counties. And it’s just getting more popular. “We have had double-digit growth nearly every year since the trails’ inception,” Lusk says. The trail system is the largest of its kind in the east and the second-largest in the country. It gives riders from up and down the Eastern Seaboard a “Disney World” of ATV riding to visit, Lusk says. Bruce “Pork Chop” Melton of South Carolina started riding the trails in 2001, after friends suggested he check them out. Now he knows many paths by heart, and he likens the experience to an adult amusement park. “Except you never have to stand in line,” he says. “If you want to go and spend a day riding around in the woods—just being away from all of the hustle and bustle of city life—you can get up there and just look at the scenery. But if you want to go up there and you want to ride hard, it’s all there,” Melton says. “I get six weeks of vacation and I try to go up there at least five weeks a amed for the infamous feuding families year. And that’s not counting my weekend trips.” of southern West Virginia and Kentucky, Everyone who makes the trek to the trails says the communities Hatfield-McCoy Trails offers visitors the there are nothing short of inviting. The trails flow around ATVchance to walk on historically significant friendly towns that allow limited all-terrain vehicle traffic within ground. The Buffalo Mountain, Bearwallow, city limits, so riders don’t have to leave their ATVs to get food or and Rockhouse Trail systems are all located on travel to their hotels. or near historical sites such as Matewan and Each trail offers something different, too, from the Bearwallow the Hatfield Cemetery—where fighting and funerals associated with Trail, with its extreme trails, to the wide-ranging Rockhouse Trail the feud took place. to the scenic Pinnacle Creek that takes riders by a trout stream and The trails were created to bring visitors into the southern coalfields rhododendron groves. The popularity of the trails has only increased of the state, says Executive Director Jeffrey Lusk. People were with the rise of utility task vehicles, also called UTVs or “side-byskeptical at first. “It was an unproven concept when we did it. It’s sides.” “It looks a lot like an off-road golf cart,” Lusk says. These allow really paid off,” Lusk says. The trails now draw tens of thousands four people to ride together, more like a car, and are more comfortable. of visitors each year. Riders have come from all 50 states and 11 Melton says he often takes his daughter and father with him on countries, many traveling from Ohio and nearby regional states. It has the trails. He’s also made new friends on his journeys—people from been a huge boon to the local economy, with new lodging businesses, Canada to Florida. “We have a ball up there. I wish I could do it restaurants, and rental companies cropping up. more,” he says. The trails were started by the West Virginia Recreational Permits and protective gear are required on the trails. Permits Vehicle Association and the Motorcycle Industry Council—groups cost $50 for non-residents and $26.50 for West Virginia residents. that worked for seven years to get the system going—and in 1997, 800.592.2217; trailsheaven.com

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Real. DISCOVERY

MountainFest brings easy riders from around the world to Morgantown. FORGET TREKKING ALL THE WAY to the Black Hills of South

Dakota for the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. On the last weekend of every July, hog heaven descends on Morgantown. That’s when tens of thousands of motorcyclists roar into West Virginia for MountainFest, held each July at Mylan Park off exit 155 of Interstate 79. MountainFest mashes together national music acts, stunt performers, and, of course, a menagerie of motorcycles for four days of full-throttle entertainment. “The best part is seeing people in the audience clapping and screaming and having a good time,” says Cliff Sutherland, president of the MountainFest board. In 2005, its inaugural year, MountainFest welcomed around 8,000 people to the rally. Since then, the festival has seen upwards of 70,000 folks in a given year, injecting the local economy with a shot of thunder. MountainFest was the brainchild of Jim Cox and Paul Paulson, two Clarksburg technology park employees who had a hunch that Morgantown would be the perfect place—just the right size and set amid beautiful countryside with adventurous, two-lane roads all around—to host the event. Festival-goers have noted the kindness of West Virginians, which lures them back every year, says Sutherland, who’s also co-owner of 116 explore • 2016

TRAVEL TIMES

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 2 hrs, 20 mins Charlotte 5 hrs, 50 mins Columbus 3 hours Pittsburgh 1 hr, 30 mins Washington, DC 3 hrs, 30 mins Toronto, Canada 6 hrs, 10 mins

Triple S Harley-Davidson of Morgantown. No leather in the closet? No Harley in the garage? No problem. Families and non-bikers venture out in throngs to the festivities to enjoy what MountainFest has to offer, Sutherland says. MountainFest has hosted nationally known musicians such as the Marshall Tucker Band, America, Travis Tritt, Grand Funk Railroad, and Montgomery Gentry. Past years’ events have also included roller derby, a motorcycle parade on High Street, and activities held at Triple S Harley-Davidson. Previous MountainFests have seen visitors from across the country, but also around the globe. Sutherland says MountainFest usually sees a large contingency of Canadian visitors and has also embraced visitors from France, Australia, Spain, Germany, and the United Kingdom. MountainFest is a family-friendly event. Children 12 and under get in free, while the proceeds from the festival go toward the local community. Since its inception, MountainFest has helped contribute more than $800,000 to various community organizations. Tickets cover all four days of MountainFest and cost $40. One-day passes are also available. Camp MountainFest, located within Mylan Park, has spaces that can be reserved for the whole weekend, but you must be at least 21 years old to camp. wvmountainfest.com

GREATER MORGANTOWN CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU

Rolling Hills, Rolling Thunder

MOUNTAIN BEAUTY

NIKKI BOWMAN

Pristine forests and cool, clear streams—your eyes won’t believe the rugged beauty of West Virginia’s parks. Just pick a trail and follow it to something unforgettable.

Take a stroll along this boardwalk in Beartown State Park.

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Real. MOUNTAIN BEAUTY

Beguiling Blennerhassett

colonial gem on the Ohio River, Blennerhassett Island charmed visitors long before West Virginia was a state and the island a historical state park. Manicured lawns and neat gardens cover the land surrounding a sophisticated 18th century mansion, as a sternwheeler boat carries admiring visitors across the river from Parkersburg. The island takes its name from its most infamous residents, a landed-gentry couple fleeing political turbulence in Ireland to brave the wilderness of the United States’ frontier. In 1800 husband and wife Harman and Margaret Blennerhassett made the island their home, building a glittering showpiece of their wealth and style in the dark wilderness of the then-new territories. Today visitors from all over the world flock to the island state park, the top tourist attraction in the Mid-Ohio Valley and a highlight of life in Parkersburg. “Blennerhassett Island helps our community stay connected to its history. We’re viewed as one of the first oil and gas boomtowns, but Parkersburg goes back much further than that,” says Cecil Childress, chairman of Blennerhassett Island Historical Foundation. “The community as a whole really understands its natural draw, its beauty, its uniqueness, and its history. It’s an identifying mark. It’s part of the culture.”

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For several years after the Blennerhassetts built their island paradise, their home was the center of society in the region. Visitors from Pittsburgh would come to the balls and parties hosted by the family. The Blennerhassett mansion was once considered the most beautiful and elaborately furnished home in the west, according to park historian Ray Swick. The family brought with them furniture from London, Baltimore, and New England, as well as French porcelain, oriental carpets, marble statues, and alabaster lamps. The mansion’s doorknobs and hinges were silver. The couple also had livery servants. Most people west of the mountains at the time lived in log buildings with dirt floors. “Margaret was an Old World lady,” Swick says. “The contrast with this wealth and the surrounding poverty was medieval.” The Blennerhassetts’ grand world fell apart by 1807 when the family became involved in a treason scandal with family friend and former U.S. Vice President Aaron Burr. Burr was accused of attempting to steal U.S. territory to create an independent nation. Harman was jailed for supporting the expedition and providing a base for Burr on the island, while Margaret took some of their possessions and fled with their children downriver. Some of the original furnishings were lost over time, but the mansion and the island museum in Parkersburg have a number of original pieces.

CARLA WITT FORD

This top destination in the Mid-Ohio Valley has a history as dramatic as the island is scenic.

TRAVEL TIMES

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 1 hr, 20 mins Charlotte 5 hours Columbus 1 hr, 50 mins Pittsburgh 2 hrs, 30 mins Washington, DC 4 hrs, 50 mins Toronto, Canada 6 hrs, 50 mins

The family’s sad tale has fascinated Swick since sixth grade, and the historian has spent his life researching and documenting their story. “They had everything the world and wealth had to offer at the time. Their story is exotic—with the island, leaving Europe for the wilderness,” Swick says. “The exchange for their involvement with one of the most glamorous politicians in American history was losing all that and suffering like they did. It became nationally and internationally famous.” After the Blennerhassetts were forced to flee their island home, it later burned to the ground. The well-tended gardens and lawns returned to the wilderness. Civil War soldiers used the island as a staging area in the mid-1800s. Through the early 20th century, the island housed farmers, an amusement park, and even baseball programs. In 1984 West Virginia began rebuilding the mansion for the christening of the new island state park. “I remember touring the kitchen when the rest of the mansion wasn’t open yet,” says Parkersburg native Joyce Moler. “Even though it’s so close to Parkersburg, you feel like you’re somewhere different, like you’ve been to another world.” To reach the island, visitors take a ferry ride on the Island Belle sternwheeler, departing from Point Park on the waterfront in Parkersburg. “You get on a boat and it’s like stepping back in history,” Moler says. Now president of Friends of Blennerhassett, a nonprofit supporting

the island park, Moler has been volunteering on the island for the last five years. “I’ve loved it ever since. It’s a beautiful place to go with wagon rides, gravel path roads. It’s not like driving down the highway— you’ve been transported to somewhere else.” Volunteers dressed in period costumes lead guests on tours of the grounds and gardens, including the Blennerhassetts’ mansion and a 2009 addition to the island, the Putnam-Houser House. Built across the river in Belpre, Ohio, by friends of the Blennerhassetts, the Putnam-Houser House is an 18th century original construction that was transplanted to the island to save it from demolition. “We’re always trying to make new and different experiences here,” says Park Superintendent Matt Baker. The park hosts Civil War reenactments and parties for West Virginia Day, but its most popular event is Mansion by Candlelight, an after-hours event that takes guests on a candlelit tour of the mansion and grounds. “When you come to Candlelight it’s like you’re here at a party in the 18th century,” Baker says. “As you walk through, there are people eating, drinking, dancing, or playing music or cards.” The island volunteers dress in period costume and act out events, giving guests a look-see through the mansion and activities going on outside. “There’s candlelight everywhere, inside and outside the mansion—it’s just beautiful,” Moler says. The October event acts as a grand season farewell before the island closes for winter. Over the last several years, the park increased its number of special events and began promoting weddings and charters on its sternwheeler. There’s a hiking trail built by the Boy Scouts of America. “At a place like Blennerhassett, history is the main focal point, but there’s also a lot of pretty natural areas on the island that shouldn’t be ignored,” Baker says. One of his favorite spots is at a point up the river on the easternmost end of the island. “It has some immensely large sycamore trees,” he says. “In the summer it’s hot, but it’s shady and breezy out there. If you’re out there at night you’re looking straight at the Parkersburg riverfront and the lights.” Another favorite spot is the Walnut Grove area where trees planted by a farmer years ago create a shaded grassy area for visitors to picnic. It’s hard to visit Parkersburg without getting caught up in the glamorous tale of the Blennerhassetts. Among locals, it’s a first choice to entertain visitors from out of town, Childress says. “This history of Blennerhassett Island impacts the whole region. Blennerhassett isn’t just sitting in the middle of the Ohio River—it really tells the story of the whole frontier movement and the opening of the Northwest Territory.” Marietta, Ohio, the oldest city of the 18th century Northwest Territory, sits just north of Blennerhassett Island and had major connections to the family as well. “You haven’t experienced this area until you’ve experienced Blennerhassett Island,” he says. 137 Juliana Street, Parkersburg; 304.420.4800; blennerhassettislandstatepark.com gotowv.com 119

Real. MOUNTAIN BEAUTY

Blackwater Falls State Park

LESS THAN FIVE MILES from Davis, Blackwater Falls State Park is

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best known for its energetic waters that twist through an eight-mile gorge before plummeting 63 feet into the canyon below. The park also offers 20 miles of hiking trails, scenic overlooks, nature and recreation programs, and endless photo opportunities. After taking in the sights, travelers can relax and refuel any time of year at Blackwater Lodge, which features 54 rooms, many with gorge views. For a more rustic retreat, the park also offers 39 furnished cabins and ample camping TRAVEL TIMES sites. Hungry adventurers will find excellent dining at the lodge’s family restaurant and WiFi for those who can’t bear to unplug. Yeager Airport Charleston, WV Although the park’s waterfall is one of the 2 hrs, 50 mins most photographed sites in the state, there are Charlotte countless other natural wonders to explore. 6 hrs, 10 mins Elakala Falls, where the waters of Shay Run Columbus rush to the edge of Blackwater Canyon, 4 hrs, 30 mins tumbling down in a beautiful display, is just Pittsburgh 2 hrs, 50 mins a quick walk along Elakala Trail from the Washington, DC lodge. If you’re undaunted by heights, take 3 hours the short trail to Lindy Point and prepare Toronto, Canada yourself for one of the most famous views in 7 hrs, 20 mins the state—a breath-stealing drop-off into Blackwater Canyon, where 45 acres of wild country stretch out in all directions. But don’t miss Pendleton Point Overlook—showcasing the canyon’s deepest and widest point, where the dramatic curves of the landscape spread out before you. West Virginia is also known for its waterways that offer bountiful bass, trout, catfish, walleye, and muskellunge. In some areas you may also find pike, sturgeon, striped bass, and plenty of tasty panfish such as sunfish and yellow perch. From Blackwater Canyon, with its pristine waters and premier trout fishing, to the stocked upstream sections known as Dry Fork, Laurel Fork, Glady Fork, and others, anglers will find no shortage of opportunities to land the big one. 1584 Blackwater Lodge Road, Davis; 304.259.5216; blackwaterfalls.com; wvdnr.gov/fishing/fishing.shtm

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Beartown State Park

SEVEN MILES SOUTH OF HILLSBORO off of U.S. Route 219, Beartown State Park offers visitors more than 100 acres of nearly untouched, rocky terrain to explore. You can easily navigate through this day-use park by traveling on the boardwalk, a wooden walkway that carefully winds through the property while not disrupting the ecosystem. The flora and fauna in Beartown will make you feel like you are escaping into a magical, leafy labyrinth. With a forest full of hemlock, birch, beech, oak, and TRAVEL TIMES maple trees, the entire park appears green. Moss and ferns cling to trees and in between unusual and ancient rock Yeager Airport formations. The name Beartown was Charleston, WV 2 hrs, 10 mins chosen by locals who say the cave-like Charlotte openings in the rock formations make an 4 hrs, 10 mins ideal winter home for black bears in the Columbus area. HC 64, Hillsboro; 304.653.4254; 4 hrs, 40 mins beartownstatepark.com Pittsburgh 4 hrs, 15 mins

Washington, DC 4 hrs, 20 mins

NIKKI BOWMAN

Toronto, Canada 8 hrs, 50 mins

Wild Watoga Experience unspoiled wilderness at the state’s largest state park.

Beartown State Park’s boardwalk offers visitors an easy stroll through stunning rock formations.

NESTLED IN MOUNTAINOUS Pocahontas County, Watoga State Park provides a great escape for outdoor lovers. Visitors can take a dip in the cool waters of the Greenbrier River that flow along the Riverside Campground, hike some of the park’s 40 miles of trails, take a bike ride along the Greenbrier River Trail, or enjoy a host of other outdoor activities. Watoga has more than 10,000 acres and is West Virginia’s largest state park. “A lot of folks like to get back to nature,” Watoga State Park Superintendent Mark Wylie says. “Watoga is a very rustic park. The Civilian Conservation Corps came in the 1930s (and built much of the park), and it has really changed very little since then and we are pretty proud of that.” The park has made upgrades to cabin roofs and bathrooms, as well as adding modern dishwashing stations, but for the most part Watoga stays true its own rustic old-timey roots, Wylie says. People come here to get away from it all. The park is not far from the Green Bank Observatory and lies within the National Radio Quiet Zone, meaning park visitors do not have cell phone service. Visitors often tell Wylie how nice it is to disconnect—although he notes the park recently made some changes to cater more to the crowd that needs to be connected to the world. There is now a Wi-Fi hot spot at the park administration building. Wildlife is a big attraction for the park, Wylie says. Deer, turkeys, and bears are a common sight for park visitors and staff. Golden and bald eagles have been spotted recently, too. History lovers can travel a half hour down the road to Droop Mountain Battlefield State Park and visit the site of one of the last major conflicts in the American Civil War. And there is never a shortage of outdoor activities in the area. The park’s 11-acre lake is stocked with a variety of fish, including bluegill, largemouth bass, and channel catfish. Wylie encounters a lot of fishermen who go out to the lake specifically for the trout fishing. In 1998, work was done on the lake to increase its depth, making it a better environment for trout. In the winter months, Watoga’s lake offers ice fishing—rangers break the lake’s ice to stock the trout.

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The Greenbrier River is easily accessible from much of the park, which offers visitors more fishing opportunities. People also enjoy lazy floats down the river, and if the water is high enough the area is great for kayaking. Visitors can take it all in from one of the park’s 24 legacy cabins. The cabins equipped with wood stoves run around $100 per night and can accommodate two to six people. They are open from late April through October. The 10 classic log cabins, mostly constructed

in the 1950s, stay open year-round and have furnaces. “It is a great place to get away,” Wylie says. “And I guarantee your phone won’t ring while you are in the cabin.” There’s also lodging at the park’s three campgrounds, with fees ranging from $21 to $26 per night. Both Riverside and Beaver Creek campgrounds have sites with electrical hook-ups and bath houses. Laurel Run provides campers a more primitive camping experience. 4800 Watoga Park Road, Marlinton; 304.799.4087; watoga.com

TRAVEL TIMES

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 2 hrs, 30 mins Charlotte 4 hrs, 30 mins Columbus 5 hours Pittsburgh 4 hrs, 10 mins Washington, DC 4 hrs, 40 mins

Watoga State Park’s lake offers year-round fishing. In the winter, rangers even break the ice to stock trout.

NIKKI BOWMAN

Toronto, Canada 8 hrs, 50 mins

STAY

Staying in Style It’s out with the old and in with the new at Canaan Valley Resort & Conference Center.

Hickory Dining Room also has a new private dining area TRAVEL TIMES about lodging at state parks. Open spaces, natural light, and the same breathtaking panoramic valley view. Antler and spacious rooms are what you’ll find at the new and chandeliers and rustic-inspired chairs keep the spirit of the Yeager Airport improved Canaan Valley Resort & Conference Center. lodge alive, and the breakfast buffet offers all the fixings Charleston, WV From the moment you walk into the new lodge you’ll in a quiet atmosphere with attentive service. Nearby in 2 hrs, 50 mins be struck by the light and airy feeling, complete with high the lodge, The Laurel is another dining option with a Charlotte ceilings and a vast porch with beautiful scenic views and full-service bar, lighter fare, and a laid-back atmosphere 6 hrs, 10 mins gliding rocking chairs. New lodge rooms opened in fall complete with pool table and big screen TV. Columbus 4 hrs, 30 mins 2013 and are bright and bold with a refreshing, sometimes As always, guests can enjoy massages on-site and abstract take on nature art and funky prints everywhere kids are welcome to spend the day in the arcade in the Pittsburgh 3 hours from carpet to décor. lodge. Depending on the season, visitors can also choose Washington, DC You can choose from five types of rooms and 160 rooms between the outdoor or indoor pools, hot tub, and saunas. 3 hrs, 10 mins total now at Canaan Valley Resort State Park. Whether Outside, the 6,000-plus-acre state park offers not just Toronto, Canada you want the standard double room, a room with a balcony 40-plus ski slopes but also a snow tubing park with the 7 hrs, 30 mins and view of the golf course or Allegheny Mountains, or one Magic Carpet, which takes riders back to the top of the of the unbelievable new suites, you’ll have a hard time not hill. The tubing area features a warming hut, ticket kiosk, kicking back and relaxing after check-in. concessions, restrooms, outdoor fire ring, and parking area. Suites offer not just balconies with gliding rocking chairs, but also You’ll also find a covered outdoor ice-skating rink overlooking wraparound sofas, tables, and fireplaces that make you feel at home. A the valley behind the main lodge, and the rink even has an outdoor corner suite offers extra seating and an inviting bar area with barstools. fireplace. Depending on when you visit, you’ll have options like Extra-wide full-length mirrors grace every room, as do mini fridges, the Wobble Clay Shooting Range, geocaching, climbing wall, microwaves, and even quaint wooden ski racks. You can also enjoy all paintball, miniature golf, and tennis, too. the modern amenities you’d expect: free WiFi, 37-inch flat screen TVs, Canaan Valley Resort also offers cabins and cottages with and fully updated bathrooms with granite countertops. pet-friendly options. The park is just minutes from Blackwater Falls Outside the new beautiful rooms are large new meeting rooms— State Park—a site as mesmerizing in winter as it is in summer—as again with phenomenal views—plus reception areas for weddings and well asthe Dolly Sods Wilderness Area, cross-country skiing at banquets, a new, larger gift shop, and a new “grab and go” café with White Grass, and Seneca Rocks, to name a few options. And the prepared foods like subs and sandwiches for adventurers on the move. charming small towns of Davis and Thomas aren’t far away, offering Of course there’s still the Hickory Dining Room, the resort’s one-of-a-kind shopping and dining. 230 Main Lodge Room, Davis; main dining area, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner every day. The 800.622.4121; canaanresort.com

ELIZABETH ROTH

FORGET EVERYTHING YOU THINK YOU KNOW

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Hangin’ with Coopers Rock WITH MAJESTIC VIEWS of the Cheat River atop a lush canyon, Coopers Rock State Forest is a must-see for any adventurer yearning for a taste of the wild outdoors. Located 13 miles east of Morgantown and eight miles west of Bruceton Mills off Exit 15 on Interstate 68, the 12,000-plus-acre park gets its name from a legend surrounding a fugitive who eluded authorities for years. A “cooper,” a person who constructs casks, drums, and barrels as a profession, allegedly hid among the mountains as he maintained a living by making barrels and hawking them to local residents. No need to worry about any fugitive barrelmakers lurking around the bend—this was long before Coopers Rock came to be a state forest. In 1936, the West Virginia Conservation Commission purchased 12,863 acres of land from a lumber and supply company. Shortly thereafter, during the Great Depression, a federal work relief program led to the construction of several structures, including picnic shelters, in the forest. 126 explore • 2016

Today Coopers Rock is known for its labyrinth of boulders and overhangs, a recreation haven for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers. Hikers visit the site year-round to explore the vast network of trails that connect the overlooks with an almost limitless view of mountains. A designated hunting area offers licensed sportsmen a shot at deer, grouse, squirrel, and turkey. For anglers, a six-acre pond sits stocked with largemouth bass, bluegill, and trout. Throughout the forest, the observant hiker can hear and see other wildlife such as chipmunks, hawks, owls, songbirds, and foxes. Coopers Rock’s main overlook is accessible by a wooden foot bridge and offers a panoramic view of the gorge, punctuated by the winding Cheat River, a favorite for whitewater rafters. The overlook is also encircled by a visitors’ area and picnic shelters, which can be reserved for that weekend family outing. The main entrance to the park is closed between December 1 and March 31 each year. It reopens each spring, and hikers walking the trails will see rhododendron and mountain laurel along the path.

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Find this nature-lover’s haven just outside Morgantown.

Make a Splash, Have a Blast

MARION COUNTY CVB

FAIRMONTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PALATINE PARK, situated downtown along the east bank of the Monongahela River, has lots to offer for outdoor recreation. But thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one section of the park guaranteed to bring the kids in your life good, clean fun. The Palatine Park Splash Park has several flower-shaped fountains, sprinklers, and jets that send water shooting straight up from the ground. The fountains have become extremely popular with locals, and some have even started holding birthday parties there. The park is open from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day, May through September. Admission is free.

The Coopers Rock campground is open April through November and provides amenities such as electric hookups, cooking grills, and a bathhouse with hot showers. Half of the campsites are available for reservations, while the remainder are rented on a first-come, first-served basis. The forest is also home to the Henry Clay Iron Furnace, which stands more than 30 feet tall and is positioned along the Clay Furnace and Clay Run Trails. The furnace was built between 1834 and 1836 and produced pig iron. Capable of producing four tons of iron each day, the furnace was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1970. The side of the park north of Interstate 68, known as the West Virginia University Forest, is leased by the WVU Division of Forestry for forestry research, teaching, and demonstration. Coopers Rock Road, Bruceton Mills; 304.594.1561; coopersrockstateforest.com

TRAVEL TIMES

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 2 hrs, 20 mins Charlotte 5 hrs, 40 mins Columbus 3 hrs, 10 mins Pittsburgh 1 hr, 30 mins Washington, DC 3 hours Toronto, Canada 6 hrs, 10 mins

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Real. MOUNTAIN BEAUTY

After Dark WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME you were truly in the dark? Chances are, it wasn’t last night, or the night before that. Cities, small towns, and now even rural communities are constantly beset by light of some kind. Most Americans in the 21st century never see more than a few dozen of the brightest celestial bodies, even on the clearest of nights. There are still places where it’s possible to see the night sky in all its glory. Rural parts of West Virginia offer some of the darkest skies east of the Mississippi—making places like Calhoun County Park and Spruce Mountain in Pendleton County a stargazer’s paradise. Spruce Knob is the highest point in West Virginia, at 4,863 feet. The Summit Observation Tower is poised at the top of this peak, making it a great place to watch a sunset and, as the skies darken, get a clean view of the stars. On clear nights, you can see vivid details of The Milky Way with the naked eye. Stargazers from far and wide have taken notice. Each September, the Almost Heaven Star Party moves into the Mountain Institute’s Spruce Knob Mountain Center, a 400-acre nature preserve founded in the 1970s as a way to help people reconnect with nature. The gathering brings in top astronomy experts for lectures on the Hubble Space Telescope, old-fashioned astronomy techniques, alien worlds, and more. There are swap meets and raffles, and workshops covering astrophotography and the basics of telescopes. Amateur astronomers are welcome at the party. Stargazers are a friendly lot and happy to share their expertise. You don’t even need a telescope of your own—just politely ask for a peek through someone else’s. Binoculars are perfect for beginning sky-watchers. In fact, many objects in the night sky are best viewed this way. But if you plan on attending, be sure to register early. Tickets are limited and sell out fast. 18 Woodlands Way, Circleville; 304.567.2632; mountain.org/skmc; ahsp.org Calhoun County Park near Grantsville will soon be home to its own “dark sky park” with special platforms for telescopes and improved facilities for visitors. Amateur astronomers realized the park’s potential back in the late 1990s, and over the years the property’s popularity with stargazers has only increased. Then, in 2013, the county began polling amateur astronomers in nearby states to gauge interest in the potential park and the response was overwhelmingly positive. With some of the Officials are currently raising money for the $1 darkest skies in the East, West Virginia million project. In the meantime astronomers offers amateur are still welcome to make use of the park’s astronomers open fields and dark, dark skies. 380 Park Place, perfect conditions for stargazing. Grantsville; 304.354.6301

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JESSE THORNTON

The fun doesn’t have to stop when the sun goes down.

Real. MOUNTAIN BEAUTY

Stunning Stonewall little river town of Roanoke would be the site of one of the Mid-Atlantic’s finest lakeside resorts: Stonewall Resort State Park. Built in the style of a 1920s Adirondack hotel, the lodge has a timeless quality, with soaring ceilings, massive wooden beams, and stone fireplaces in the common areas. Big windows overlook a lake and marina. Inside the resort’s main lodge are 198 guest rooms with easy access to the restaurant, lounge, spa, and marina. Also fronting the lake are 10 modern post-and-beam cottages. All have vaulted ceilings with exposed wood beams, stone fireplaces, Mission-style furnishings, and spacious decks. The center of water activities is the 374-slip marina, where you can rent a pontoon boat to cruise the 2,600acre lake, a fishing boat to stalk the lake’s legendary bass, or a kayak or stand-up paddleboard—free to guests—to explore under your own power. If you prefer a guided tour, join the one-hour daily excursion aboard the 100-passenger Little Sorrel, named for Stonewall’s favorite horse. Stonewall Resort is also home to the Arnold Palmer Signature Course, a 7,149-yard creation ranked in the country’s top 100 public and resort layouts. Palmer used every nuance of the hilly, partially wooded site, screening sightlines between holes with terrain, trees, and vegetation. Cart paths wind in and out of hardwood and evergreen groves, revealing vistas of spiky hills, mountains, and the lake. The park also has miles of well-maintained hiking and biking trails. For a short jaunt, check out the new pedestrian boardwalk 130 explore • 2016

that connects the lodge with the campground and day-use areas. On the new Cairns Trail, watch for the man-made stacks of rock called cairns. In addition to the cairns, geocaching treasures can be found on the resort grounds—the only mystery is where. If your legs need a rest, ride a Segway or head over to the Roanoke Activity Plaza, featuring two playgrounds, a nine-hole disc golf course, basketball courts, horseshoe pits, and a four-mile fitness trail with 10 stations. New on the plaza is a small outdoor theater for musical and theatrical performances. On rainy days, there’s an indoor climbing wall, a nine-hole miniature golf course, and an indoor pool. Hungry after all that activity? Visit Stillwaters restaurant on the ground level of the resort lodge. Take your pick of inside or patio

STONEWALL RESORT

TWENTY-FIVE YEARS AGO, no one imagined the

Weston

TRAVEL TIMES

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 1 hr, 30 mins Charlotte 4 hrs, 50 mins Columbus 3 hrs, 20 mins Pittsburgh 2 hrs, 10 mins Washington, DC 4 hrs, 10 mins

NIKKI BOWMAN

Toronto, Canada 6 hrs, 40 mins

IF YOU’RE TAKING a few days of rest and relaxation at Stonewall Resort, be sure to give yourself some time to explore the nearby town of Weston, just a few miles up the road. Built before the Civil War, the former mental hosptial now known as the Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum (71 Asylum Drive; 304.269.5070; trans-alleghenylunaticasylum.com)—is the largest hand-cut stone building in North America, arguably second in the world only to the Kremlin. Construction of this National Historic Landmark began in 1858. Changes in mental health treatments and the facility’s deteriorating condition led to its closing in 1994, but it has now become a popular tourist site. Reported paranormal activity and Civil War tales make the Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum haunted tour a must for ghost hunters. During the same time workers were building the Weston State Hospital, the area was

NEARBY EXPLORE

also in the midst of an economic boom based around hand-blown glass. The fine silica found in this area made Weston and the rest of Lewis County the hand-blown glass capital of the world. Though the big glass factories are gone, you can still watch the art of glassblowing demonstrated at Appalachian Glass (499 U.S. Highway 33 East; 304.269.1030; appglass.com). Owner Chip Turner demonstrates the craft at the main studio in east Weston and at local festivals. The studio, free to visit, contains a shop with blown glass and stained glass. You can also learn the history of the industry in the town’s West Virginia Museum of American Glass (230 Main Avenue; 304.269.5006; magwv.com). The museum tells the story of the industry—the products, the tools, and the lives of the glassmakers—and the history of some of the world’s premier glass factories. Beautiful pieces produced during this era are on display. The TransAllegheny Lunatic Asylum is a required stop if you’re visiting Weston.

seating—both with lake views—and enjoy an eclectic menu of local game, fish, and produce. Across the hall is TJ Muskies Lounge, a comfortable place to cozy up to the fire with drinks and sample one of the signature burgers. The lounge offers live entertainment on Saturday nights. Après golf, the place to replay your triumphs and defeats is at Lightburn’s Restaurant, the casual eatery atop the clubhouse. Appetizers, soups, salads, and sandwiches are served inside or on the roomy terrace overlooking the course, lake, and lodge. 940 Resort Drive, Roanoke; 304.269.7400; stonewallresort.com gotowv.com 131

Find Your Park

BRENT MCGUIRT

Celebrate a century of National Parks at West Virginiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s national lands.

An autumn view of the Long Wall Trail at the New River Gorge National River.

Real. MOUNTAIN BEAUTY

n August 25, 1916, President Woodrow Wilson signed an order creating a government agency to manage the United States’ national lands and landmarks and “leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.” Thanks to that visionary idea, a century later millions of people each year are still enjoying pristine parks, rugged forests, and national landmarks protected by the National Park Service. West Virginia is home to four National Park Service properties for your unimpaired enjoyment: the New River Gorge National River, the Gauley River National Recreation Area, the Bluestone National Scenic River, and the Harper’s Ferry National Historical Park. New River Gorge National River This 70,000-acre property was named a national land in 1978. Despite its name, the history of the New River goes back millennia. Geologists believe it might be one of the oldest rivers in the world. Over time the flowing waters cut what is now known as the New River Gorge, the deepest and longest river gorge in the Appalachian Mountains. For all its fascinating natural history, this region carries its share of human drama, too. Mary Draper Ingles followed this waterway as she escaped captivity from the Shawnee in modern day Ohio—a 500mile, 40-day journey back to her home in what is now Blacksburg, Virginia. The New River Gorge also gave birth to the folk legend of John Henry, who is immortalized in story and song as the “steel driving man” who challenged—and beat—a steam drill while digging a tunnel for the C&O Railroad. The New River Gorge National River covers 53 miles of the New River, running from Bluestone Dam near Hinton to Hawks Nest Lake in Ansted. The gorge contains outdoor activities for adventurers of all sorts: miles of hiking trails, old railroad beds transformed into biking trails, world-class whitewater rafting, and huge rock faces perfect for climbing. You’ll be met with unequaled beauty whichever adventure you choose. The Appalachian Mountains offer one of the most diverse biospheres in the world, so nature lovers can observe a wide array of flora and fauna, including some endangered animal species. And around every bend of the trail, there’s a chance you’ll find a vista that even the best camera won’t be able to capture. The national river is marked with remnants of the area’s coal mining history. Climb down the 821 steps of the Kaymoor Miners Trail to see the remains of a coal processing plant and coke ovens. On the Headhouse Trail in nearby Nuttallburg, hikers can see the remains of the Nuttall coal mine entrance and a conveyor used to transport coal. 304.465.0508; nps.gov/neri Gauley River National Recreation Area The Gauley River National Recreation Area encompasses 25 miles of the Gauley River. Even more than its sister, the New River, the Gauley is known throughout the world as some of the wildest whitewater rafting in the United States—the river drops more than 668 feet over its course with a mixture of calm eddies, giant boulders, and more than 100 gnarly

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rapids all the way down. And while the rafting is challenging all year, the water gets really wild each September when the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers begins releasing water from the Summersville Dam for its annual draw-down of Summersville Lake. Unless you’re a very experienced rafter, it’s probably best to join up with one of the numerous outfitters in the region before heading out to the river. These companies offer a full adrenaline-soaked experience for daredevils of all skill levels. For a more low-key experience, the Gauley River National Scenic River is also a great place for fishing. Anglers can catch trout, smallmouth bass, walleye, and muskellunge at public river access points in Gauley Tailwaters, Masons Branch, and Woods Ferry. 304.465.0508; nps.gov/gari Bluestone National Scenic River This national land protects 10 ½ miles of the Bluestone River, which begins on East River Mountain in Virginia and flows 77 miles to Bluestone Lake in West Virginia. The waterway—which is also part of the National Park Service’s Wild and Scenic Rivers System—got its name for the limestone that lies on the bottom of the river. It is popular with fishermen for its smallmouth bass, rock bass, and bluegill. Hunters also make use of the area. About 70 percent of the land that makes up the Bluestone National Scenic River is open to the general public for hunting and trapping, although hunters and trappers are required to have licenses from the West Virginia Division of Natural Resources. There are hiking trails, too, but camping isn’t allowed at the Bluestone National Scenic River. Campgrounds are available at Pipestem Resort State Park and Bluestone State Park, located at either end of the scenic river. 304.465.0508; nps.gov/blue Harpers Ferry National Historical Park The bloodiest conflict in the nation’s history, the American Civil War, literally tore the nation in half. And the fuse that exploded this powder keg was lit in Harpers Ferry. In October 1859, radical abolitionist John Brown and his 21-member “Provisional Army of the United States” led a three-day siege of the United States Armory and Arsenal located at Harpers Ferry. Brown’s intent was to begin an uprising of slaves—he planned to use the 100,000 weapons stored at the armory to aid in the rebellion. The event now known as John Brown’s Raid drew militia troops from Maryland, Virginia, and the District of Columbia and was finally brought to an end after a dozen Marines broke the door down and took Brown and what was left of his “army of liberation” captive. Two months later, Brown was tried, convicted, and executed for “conspiring with slaves to commit treason and murder.” Before he was hanged, Brown offered a few oracular words. “All you people at the South,” he said, “prepare yourselves for a settlement of that question that must come up for settlement sooner than you are prepared for it … This negro question, I mean—the end of that is not yet.”

Harpers Ferry

MUST SEE

MUST STAY Jackson Rose B&B

Once owned by the Lee family, the 18th century Federal-style home was chosen by Confederate General Stonewall Jackson as his temporary headquarters during the Civil War. He wrote to his wife of a fragrant rose outside his second-story window, which became known as the Jackson Rose. The restored house has hearts-of-pine floors, high ceilings, gas fireplaces, a front porch, and gardens. Breakfasts are homemade using fresh local ingredients. 1167 West Washington Street; 304.535.1528; thejacksonrose.com

Laurel Lodge

This Craftsman-style bungalow has comfortable rooms overlooking the Blue Ridge countryside or the Potomac River. Two-course breakfasts include fruit, breads, pastries, and a hot entrée. 844 East Ridge Street; 304.535.2886; laurellodge.com

MUST EAT Country Cafe

A local favorite for its outstanding breakfasts, the café also does a brisk lunch business, serving homemade chili, soups, salads, and sandwiches— and old-fashioned fountain drinks such as vanilla, cherry, or chocolate Cokes. The handmade shakes and floats with real ice cream are popular summertime treats. Open daily 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. 1715 West Washington Street; 304.535.2327; country-cafe.com

ELIZABETH ROTH

Canal House Café

Visitors can learn Those words came true less than two years later when about the beginnings the American Civil War began. But Harpers Ferry’s role of the American Civil in the growing conflict was not yet over. Troops from both War—and connect with the great outdoors—at armies viewed the town located on the Baltimore & Ohio Harpers Ferry National Railroad as a strategic stronghold. Thus, the town would Historical Park. change hands eight times between 1861 and 1865. Five days after the war began, the people of Virginia voted to secede from the United States of America—putting Harpers Ferry in enemy territory. Union soldiers set fire to the Harpers Ferry armory on their way out of town to keep it out of Confederate hands. Later, when the Union reclaimed Harpers Ferry, Confederate troops burned most of town’s factories and demolished a railroad bridge. All of this rich history is on display at Harpers Ferry National Historical Park, where park rangers host regular guided tours, including horse and wagon tours. The park is also renowned for its walking trails and serves as the midpoint of the 2,178-mile-long Appalachian Trail. 304.535.6029; nps.gov/hafe

Built in the early 1800s using timbers from bateaux once used on the Shenandoah Canal, the house served as lodging for soldiers during the Civil War. The marks of their spurs can still be seen on the interior steps. Today the place is known for its homemade breads, simple but creative dishes, and affordable prices. 1226 West Washington Street; 304.535.2880; canalhousecafe.com

MUST SHOP Cool Confectionaries

History never tasted so sweet as at this quaint shop where you can find 1700s sweetmeats, 1800s old-time candy, 1900s chocolates and retro candies, as well as special truffles and a selection of botanical confections. 144 High Street; 304.461.4714; coolconfectionaries.com

The Vintage Lady

It’s fun to browse the diverse goods selected by owner Cindy Dunn—handcrafted jewelry, trendy clothing and accessories, and eyecatching souvenirs. 180 High Street; 304.535.1313; thevintagelady.net

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TRAVEL TIMES

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 1 hr, 30 mins Charlotte 3 hrs, 50 mins Columbus 3 hrs, 50 mins Pittsburgh 3 hrs, 30 mins Washington, DC 4 hrs, 40 mins Toronto, Canada 8 hours

Beautiful Babcock

YOU’VE PROBABLY SEEN Glade Creek Grist Mill, even if you’ve never heard of it. It’s an old-timey water powered mill set on an outcrop of rock above a stream of the same name, surrounded by lush greenery. When the water is running strong on Glade Creek, the big wooden wheel makes slow, creaky turns. It looks older than time itself, but the mill is actually a replica of the original mill that ground grain as far back as the 1890s. This new mill was completed in 1976 and was built using parts from three earlier mills: the Stoney Creek Grist Mill in Pocahontas County, the Spring Run Grist Mill in Grant County, and the Onego Grist Mill in Pendleton County. In the years since its completion this mill—set in Babcock State Park in Fayette County—has become one of the most photographed sites in West Virginia. Pictures of the mill can be found on postcards, calendars, placemats, and coffee mugs all over the world. In 2014, the U.S. Postal Service even featured the mill on a priority mail stamp. Shutterbugs are especially fond of photographing the mill when the trees start turning in early fall. To time your visit when the foliage is just right, check out the webcam on Babcock State Park’s website to see how the leaves have changed. The Glade Creek Grist Mill is more than just a pretty face—it still churns out freshly ground cornmeal, which can be purchased at the park’s gift shop. And there is far more to Babcock than its most famous attraction. The park’s 4,127 acres offer all kinds of fun, including more than 20 miles of hiking trails. There are horseshoe pits, volleyball and tennis 136 explore • 2016

courts, and a basketball court. The park has a swimming pool, and the 19-acre Boley Lake is perfect for fishing. The lake’s marina offers paddleboats, rowboats, and canoes for rent. During the summer, guests can also enjoy nature tours and educational presentations on plants and wildlife found in the park. Opened in 1937, the park was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), a jobs program started by President Franklin D. Roosevelt during the height of the Great Depression to put unemployed men back to work. The program provided a steady paycheck—workers started at $30 a month and could get up to $45 per month—as well as on-the-job training in drafting, carpentry, and stonemasonry. Workers with the CCC built the park’s administration buildings as well as 13 “board-and-batt” cabins and 13 log cabins, 10 of which were made from logs of dead chestnut trees found on the property. Today the park’s campground is located on the site of one of the two CCC camp sites where workers were housed. When the park opened, a cabin could be rented for just $14 a week. Those cabins are still available for rent, although the price has increased a bit. Weekly rentals begin at $400 during the peak season from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Camping is also available for both tents and trailers. Babcock’s campsites offer picnic tables and charcoal grills. There is also a bathhouse and laundromat on the property and you can rent picnic shelters for large events like family reunions or company outings. 486 Babcock Road, Clifftop; 304.438.3004; babcocksp.com

CARLA WITT FORD

A picturesque park with views worth framing.

BLISS

ADVENTURES ON THE GORGE

When itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to disconnect from the rest of the world and reconnect with the one you love most, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no better getaway than the mountains.

Rent a private cabin and cozy up to your significant other at Adventures on the Gorge in Lansing

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AMBERLEE CHRISTEY PHOTOGRAPHY

West Virginia’s pristine landscapes and sweeping vistas make the state a perfect place to exchange vows with the one you love.

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Location, Location, Location If tying the knot is in your future, look no further than the Mountain State for a one-of-a-kind venue.

est Virginia is a dream wedding destination, and not just as a photography backdrop. This place is wild, yet refined; rustic, yet cultured. A place where luxury resorts do business in the heart of untouched wilderness, where pastoral towns thrive in the shadows of nearby urban centers. But half of the experience comes from our people. Hospitality is in the blood here. And customer service is a way of life. From four-season resorts to idyllic farmsteads, these are just a sampling of first-class venues in the heart of the state. Start with an Adventure Balanced on the rim of the New River Gorge in Fayette County, an hour from the state’s capital in Charleston, Adventures on the Gorge (AOTG) invites you and your guests to escape the everyday and venture into the unknown. Lodging, restaurants, wedding coordinating, and activities, it’s all available here. Bring your dreams and your budget to the AOTG staff and they’ll take the guesswork out of the process with recommendations for trusted local vendors and arrangements for pre- and post-wedding group activities. Adventurous couples can hike, bike, relax poolside, and float down the river, or take the whole wedding party and guests for a day of zip-lining through the forest canopy or whitewater rafting down the New River. The resort also offers extensive packages with lodging, dining, and activities included. For your accommodations, rent a deluxe five-star cabin with up to four bedrooms, a hot tub, and a full kitchen or a rustic retreat within walking distance of the resort, or camp under an unobstructed night sky. Choose your dinner and drinks from five eateries for all ages and tastes. And don’t forget about the live music and taverns a short walk from the cabins and camping. Whether you’re celebrating indoors or out, inviting a hundred honored guests or just a handful of loved ones, you’ll have options for ceremony and reception locations. The open-air pavilion and pool deck are two of the most popular locations to tie the knot on the grounds and both offer incredible views. 219 Chestnutburg Road, Lansing; 855.379.8738; adventuresonthegorge.com

Sample the Southern Charm Few venues can truly say no outdoor wedding is too big or too small. But The Confluence Resort in Fayette County boasts just that. Tucked away from the buzz of urban life, Confluence offers 300 acres of rock cliffs, historical landmarks, a 70-foot waterfall, and quiet nature trails all bordering The Gauley River National Recreation Area. But this isn’t your typical resort. Confluence specializes in customization. For lodging, the resort offers four private vacation rental properties that are fully and artfully furnished, include linens and towels, 3G wireless coverage, and satellite TV. The homes sleep 10 to 13 people and have everything from full kitchens, gas grills, and hot tubs to central air conditioning and washers and dryers. The resort also offers a pond-side pavilion and two barns. For a truly picture-perfect first kiss, the resort has a specially designed wedding overlook above the Meadow and Gauley rivers for up to 150 seated guests. And from wedding planning to rentals to catering and vendor referrals, Confluence’s event specialists can smooth the way and create a package to meet your needs and budget. Email the resort for directions and details and to tour the grounds. Fayetteville; 304.573.4900; confluenceresort.com, info@confluenceresort.com Going to the Chapel The Greenbrier Resort has been synonymous with luxury for more than 200 years. It is a National Historic Landmark with 10,000 acres of perfectly manicured grounds, golfing, a mineral spa, world-class restaurants and bars, a casino, and a bevy of other activities. And in 2015 it opened its own 12,000-square-foot timber frame chapel on the north lawn to accommodate wedding ceremonies for any belief system. This venue is one-of-a-kind not only because of its history but also because of the chapel’s exquisite design. Sided in white clapboard, it’s the picture of serenity with traditional stained glass windows, copper roof and steeple, and pew seating for 500 guests. It features custom chandeliers, gleaming timber beams, and private rooms for wedding party preparations, and it’s fully ADA accessible—with its own elevator. Since 1778, The Greenbrier has hosted 26 U.S. presidents and countless royalty and celebrities, so lodging here is the epitome of luxury. For your wedding accommodations, choose an estate home with room for 200 guests, a 200-year old, perfectly preserved cottage, gotowv.com 139

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or one of many signature resort rooms and suites. 300 West Main Street, White Sulphur Springs; 844.837.2466; greenbrier.com

Write Your Own Storybook Romance Set amidst nearly 2,000 acres of mountains, fields, and peaceful lakeshores, Stonewall Resort offers a rustic setting with all the modern conveniences you could ask for just minutes from the interstate. Both indoor and outdoor ceremonies are a perfect fit at Stonewall, and the resort’s expert planning team will help make the entire event seamless. Choose from patios, lawns, ballrooms, and 15,000 square feet of IACC-approved, beautifully decorated conference space. On-site dining options run the gamut, from a white tablecloth experience at Stillwaters to a family atmosphere overlooking the grounds at Lightburn’s to the casual tavern feel of TJ Muskies Lounge. But brides and grooms can also choose a catered reception with a custom menu. Want a chef-attended culinary action station, full bar service, custom ice sculpture, or chocolate fountain? Stonewall can do that. 140 explore • 2016

LAUREN LOVE PHOTOGRAPHY; NIKKI BOWMAN

One for the History Books At the Historic General Lewis Inn and Restaurant, a unique blend of old and new welcomes wedding guests. While the original General Lewis was built in the early 1800s and is located on the site of an 1862 Civil War battle, this Greenbrier Valley property was renovated and expanded in 1928 to create the inn. Since then it has boasted cozy rooms featuring antique furnishings as well as modern conveniences like en suite bathrooms, TVs, free Wi-Fi, and air conditioning. Purchased by a local family in 2014, it has now been outfitted with even more updates—like iPads in the dining room and a Mac computer in the lobby. Still, the new owners remain true to inn’s original character, keeping much of the historic décor, such as the spool and canopy beds, chests of drawers, china, and glassware, while working toward new concepts like adding a bar and expanded dining area and revamping the menu and wine list. The property also boasts romantic, spacious flower gardens and grounds, a lily pond, and a lush canopy of trees—perfect for a vintage garden-party wedding. Guests are welcome to relax in rocking chairs on the veranda or take a short stroll to downtown Lewisburg, where shopping, entertainment, and dining options abound. 301 East Washington Street, Lewisburg; 304.645.2600; generallewisinn.com

No matter what kind of wedding you’re planning, the state’s diversity of venues will make your big day a dream come true.

THE OBERPORTS

Wedding guests can stay in the AAA, Four Diamond Adirondackstyle lodge or the cozy saltbox-style cottages across the lake. And don’t worry about entertainment. Guest can rent paddleboats, pontoons, and fishing boats, hike or bike 16 miles of trails, relax in the spa, pool, sauna, or Jacuzzi, and even take a cruise around the lake aboard the Little Sorrel each evening. Golfers will find their nirvana on the 7,149-yard Arnold Palmer Signature Golf Course. 940 Resort Drive, Roanoke; 304.269.7400; stonewallresort.com Enjoy a Slice of Paradise Attending a wedding at Swift Level in Lewisburg is like stepping back in time. This working agricultural business has more than 200 years of history and five generations of family memories in every inch of its 151 private, rolling acres in the Greenbrier Valley. Indoor and outdoor weddings are welcome at Swift Level. A rustic yet elegant ceremony is a perfect fit for the pristine white horse barn,

once the longtime home of famous Connemara stallion and Irish show jumper Grange Finn Sparrow. It’s a dream backdrop full of country charm with room for up to 120 guests. Nearby, the main house might be a charming base of operations for a wedding party. This 1820s homestead has five guest rooms featuring private baths and entrances, high ceilings, wide windows, and views for miles. The house also has several large living rooms, a dining room, a large interior porch, a tavern, and two bathrooms on the main floor. The nearby bunkhouse, once the home’s smokehouse, is another 1820s structure now fully renovated and available for rent. It has twin bedrooms, each with private baths. Parties big and small will feel right at home down on the farm. But don’t stress out on your big day, Swift Level has its own events coordinator to guide you through each step, from choosing a location on the farm to hiring local catering services. Herns Mill Road, Lewisburg; 304.661.6777; theswiftlevel.com gotowv.com 141

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Willkommen The Bavarian Inn welcomes guests from around the world.

ravelers crossing the Potomac to historic Shepherdstown may very well get the feeling they’re driving over the Rhine. With four distinctly German chalets containing 73 refurbished guest rooms suspended on the opposite bank, the Bavarian Inn peers over the landscape and welcomes guests to an enchanted schwarzwald getaway. For owners Erwin and Carol Asam, the enchantment began over 30 years ago. Erwin, a German native, was running an English pub called the Piccadilly Restaurant in Chevy Chase, Maryland, which Carol and her British Navy friends working at the embassy in Washington, D.C., frequented. After getting married and having two sons, the Asams came to Shepherdstown in 1977 with nothing but a “huge mortgage and a station wagon” to take over the small failing

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German restaurant that now boasts several additions and remodels as well as the coveted AAA four diamond rating. “People are pleasantly surprised when they come here and it’s not all Oktoberfest all the time,” says son and general manager Christian Asam. But it is Oktoberfest for at least one day of the year. While the fall is considered the inn’s busy season, the third Sunday in October draws anywhere from three to four thousand people to the grounds for the annual festival, which boasts the customary oompa entertainment, activities for children, and, of course, food and drink. The rest of the year is dotted with special events, wedding receptions, and exclusive pairing dinners organized to attract adventurous palates. “We try to do these at least once a month,” says Asam. “It allows us to showcase not just the restaurant, but also our huge wine selection, the wine club, and our bars.”

NEARBY MUST SEE

Shepherdstown

This historic small town has big personality. SHEPHERDSTOWN’S CHARM is unmistakable—and

irresistible. The historic structures and one-of-a-kind shops and restaurants draw vacationers throughout the year from the Baltimore-Washington, D.C., area and beyond. Marking its 250th anniversary in 2013, Shepherdstown is arguably the oldest town in West Virginia, established in the 1730s by landowner Thomas Shepherd as “Mecklenberg.” The Shepherdstown of today has a population 2,000 and is young in spirit, bolstered by students from Shepherd University. Shepherd is located in the center of town and boasts year-round concerts, plays, sporting events, and other entertainment open to the public. An influx of academics, artists, and retirees has contributed to the rich cultural mix. Residents are passionate about active pursuits like hiking, biking, and canoeing or kayaking on the Potomac. If you stop by, check out hip restaurants like Bistro 122, The Press Room, Blue Moon Cafe, and Maria’s Taqueria. shepherdstown.info

TRAVEL TIMES

Yeager Airport Charleston, WV 4 hrs, 30 mins Charlotte 5 hrs, 50 mins Columbus 5 hrs, 20 mins Pittsburgh 3 hours

ELIZABETH ROTH

Washington, DC 1 hr, 30 mins

One of the newest additions not to be missed Toronto, Canada is the Infinity 101 Pool Bar. Sitting exactly 101 7 hrs, 10 mins feet above the Potomac River, the pool looks as if it cascades over the edge. Here you can “sip and take a dip” with a creative menu of salads, sandwiches, and cocktails. The location offers endless daytime activity opportunities. The shops and restaurants of Historic Shepherdstown’s German Street are a short five-minute walk away, and the inn has partnered with area vendors such as Cress Creek Golf Club for world-class rounds of golf, Peddle & Paddle for bicycle and water sport rentals, and the Antietam Battlefield for guided Segway tours. At around $125 per night, guests can enjoy the affordable luxury even in peak season. 164 Shepherd Grade Road, Shepherdstown; 304.876.2551; bavarianinnwv.com, info@bavarianinnwv.com

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Home, Away

Treat someone you love to a night (or two) at these cozy lodgings. WEST VIRGINIA OPENS its doors to all visitors—and come

morning, it feeds them well. Whether you’re looking for a rustic, backwoods escape or a plush pampering in a historic setting, you’ll find enthusiastic West Virginia proprietors in every part of the state to host your getaway. Here’s just a sample of Mountain State hospitality.

Jerico Bed & Breakfast Located on land purchased just after the Civil War by a descendant of Pocahontas County pioneer Moses Moore and still in the family today, Jerico Bed & Breakfast is operated by Thomas Moses Moore, Jr. Guests can choose from among six rooms in the charming, tin-roofed main house, built around 1900, or they can stay in one of nine pre-Civil War log cabins found in other places and reassembled on the property with modern amenities, including hot tubs. Jerico is centrally located to a vast range of activities—anything from kayaking and fishing on the Greenbrier River and hiking in the unique settings of Cranberry Glades and Seneca Rocks to historical tourism at the Pearl S. Buck Birthplace and Cass Scenic Railroad State Park and a science immersion at the National Radio Astronomy Observatory in Green Bank. Jerico Road 19, Marlinton; 888.499.6241; jericobb.com A Nature’s Song Secluded at the heart of a 140-acre retreat, A Nature’s Song has two spacious guest rooms upstairs with a shared sitting room. Or for a more private getaway still, the property’s Cabin on the Hill, with its own kitchenette, offers a still more private retreat. Relax with refreshments on the porch overlooking the property’s two ponds or take advantage of the hiking, bird watching, and stargazing the remote location offers in abundance. For a little 144 explore • 2016

local history, visit the West Augusta Historical Society Museum and Round Barn to see the original bed, chair, and dresser of Frances H. Pierpont, known as the Father of West Virginia. Proprietors Joanna and Arthur Reeves serve a full country breakfast every morning, and lunch and dinner are available by advance request. 274 Forest Lane, Mannington; 304.986.3401; anaturessong.com Capon Springs and Farms Capon Springs and Farms mountain resort feels much the same today as it did 50 years ago when Lou and Virginia Austin opened their freshwater springs getaway to friends and to friends of friends. Now eight decades in the same family, the inn has resisted trends. Meals are cooked by staff and served family-style, three times a day. The 10 guest cottages of varying sizes and two private lodging facilities don’t have telephones, televisions, or Internet access. Yet there’s plenty of wholesome fun: golf and tennis, a spring-fed swimming pool, and two half-acre fishing ponds stocked regularly with bluegill, bass, catfish, and trout; rowboats and bamboo fishing poles are supplied. Bingo, ping-pong, and other good-natured competitions spring up from time to time. And guests can still enjoy those springs, long sought for their healing powers, in the Hygeia Bath House and Spa. 1 Main Street, Capon Springs; 304.874.3695; caponsprings.net Inn at Lost River In the heart of Lost River Valley sits a well-kept, white clapboard farmhouse with a tin roof. Dating back to the 1870s, The Inn at Lost River is an old home that invites visitors

MELISSA KAY

Bluefield Inn Host in days gone by to presidents Woodrow Wilson and John F. Kennedy and to Nobel laureate mathematician John Nash, this one-time lavish estate fell on some hard decades but has been restored to its former elegance. Guests enter to a formal reception hall lit by an Austrian crystal chandelier. A billiards room evokes the feeling of a private club, with a carved imported granite mantel and brass and oak chandelier. The expansive veranda overlooks lush gardens with Corinthian-columned trellises. Proprietor Kitt McCarthy invites visitors to slumber in a four-poster or spend the night in a Lincoln-style Victorian bed, among six options—all featuring 600-count sheets and down-alternative mattress toppers and blankets. Breakfast is served in a sunny parlor with stained glass windows. 2109 Jefferson Street, Bluefield; 800.225.5982, 304.323.2200; bluefieldinn.com

You’ll find cozy accommodations almost anywhere you go in the Mountain State, like Inn at Lost River and Capon Springs.

CARLA WITT FORD

to come in and relax, even as innkeeper Ted Harvey meets you at the door. Inside, the house is airy and bright. Sunlight pours into rooms that hold a harmonious mix of antiques and contemporary art. Some of the best pieces on display are ceramic works by Ted’s wife, Toni. The Harveys began renovating the farmhouse in 1987 and opened the inn in 1990. In addition to three guest rooms in the house, they created two cheerful cottages from a former springhouse and smokehouse on the property. Between them, a large outdoor deck offers a setting for summer breakfasts, afternoon wine, or a private waltz under the stars. Behind the lodgings is also Summerhouse, a screened-in hideaway where guests can read, watch birds, or listen to the sounds of nearby Mill Creek. The Harveys also run an adjacent country store, selling craft beers and wines alongside American handcrafts. 715 State Road 259, Lost River; 304.897.7000; theinnatlostriver.com Cooper House Bed and Cocktail This quirky little establishment is located in the historic, similarly quirky town of Thomas. Cooper House Bed and Cocktail offers four distinctive guest rooms, each with a private bath and an entertaining name like “Canary, Crimson & Coal” or “Duchess in Reduced Circumstances.”

Cooper House makes for a great base camp if you’re visiting the area to hike, bike, boat, or ski. When your stomach starts rumbling, it’s within walking distance of great local restaurants like The Flying Pigs Cafe and TipTop café. You’re also next door to the renowned music venue The Purple Fiddle, which features bands each night until around 11 p.m. The folks at Cooper House admit they’re probably not a good choice if you’re the early-to-bed type, but it’s the perfect place for night owls and other revelers to enjoy some of the state’s best live music. 114 East Avenue, Thomas; 304.851.4553; cooperhousebandc.com gotowv.com 145

Real. BLISS

Lodging options for sweethearts looking to break outside the everyday.

getaways can quickly fall into set patterns—we find ourselves returning again and again to the same places. Luckily, it’s easier than ever to switch things up. The popular space-sharing website Airbnb has opened up opportunities for affordable, unique lodging all over the world. West Virginia has a few gems of its own. In Shepherdstown, look for Will Sutherland’s listing, “Cozy School Bus Conversion.” The space is exactly as it sounds: It’s a 1997 school bus that Sullivan has converted into a living space with hardwood floors, a sofa, breakfast nook, wood-burning stove, and full bed. The bus has electricity and ambient lighting, although there are also candles for a romantic feel. For privacy, the bus is parked in a secluded area of Sutherland’s yard. In warmer weather, guests can enjoy the hammock and tree swing that hang nearby. Just be warned, there’s no bathroom at the bus. Guests have to use the facilities in Sutherland’s home, but he’s a gracious host. Rebecca Browning’s Trillium Acres would be perfect for anyone making a weekend escape to Morgantown. Located just 10 miles from downtown and 12 miles away from the outdoor recreation at Coopers Rock State Forest, this rustic home has an open floor plan, exposed rafters, and a full kitchen and is stylishly decorated with minimalist furniture. Although it’s perfectly suited for a romantic getaway for two, it could easily accommodate a whole family or group of friends—the space sleeps up to six people in three beds. The property was built by Morgantown journalist Norm Julian. Browning keeps a few of his books on the shelves at Trillium Acres, including a collection of short stories written about the house. Holly Clark originally intended to fix up her old barn so friends would have somewhere to stay when they came to Fayetteville for rock climbing. Then she heard about Airbnb, and since 2011 she has hosted guests from around the world in her space, aptly called The Barn Loft. Staying there is like camping with The Barn Loft in the conveniences of home. There’s Fayetteville is a long way from comfortable furniture, a dresser, and a roughing it,” dining table. The bed is surrounded by with a big comfy mosquito nets, which both looks exotic bed and antique furnishings. and comes in handy once night falls.

ELIZABETH ROTH

Something a Little Different

ROMANCE IS ALL ABOUT ADVENTURE. Unfortunately, romantic

WONDER

REBECCA KIGER FOTOGRAFIA

Family bonds run deep in West Virginia, so the state is bursting with attractions to please everyone, young and old.

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All Aboard

You’ve got to pay to ride these trains—it’s only fare. Fall Saturday rates in parentheses. Fares subject to change.

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Cheat Mountain Salamander

Mountain Explorer Dinner Train

9-hour tickets Adult $81 ($86) Child $71 ($76) Senior $79 ($84)

Regular Schedule Regular Seating $79

2.5-hour tickets Adult $44 ($49) Child $36 ($41) Senior $42 ($47)

Murder Mystery Regular Seating $79

Parlor Car Upgrade $89

Wild Heart Adventure Package 7.5-hour round trip departs 8:50 a.m. Adult $149 ($154) Child $139 ($144) Senior $147 ($152)

New Tygart Flyer Adult $57 ($62) Child $47 ($52) Senior $55 ($60) Parlor upgrade $72 ($77)

CARLA WITT FORD

Train Pricing

ELKINS DEPARTURE

The Durbin & Greenbrier Valley Railroad offers mountain rail adventures for people of all ages.

hildren’s ears perk up the moment they hear the faint whistle of a train in the distance. They squeeze their parents’ hands and watch excitedly as the rumbling steam locomotive appears from behind the bend, emerging from the mountains. Black smoke pours from the smokestack as the train approaches the station. Time seems to slow down as the conductor smiles and waves to waiting passengers and the brakes screech to a full stop. When the coast is clear, the friendly conductor welcomes visitors onboard to be part of the adventure. In the early 20th century luxury passenger steam trains pulled into Elkins on a daily basis. Today, thanks to John Smith, trains once again frequent the town. “I just didn’t want to see them pull up the tracks,” says Smith, who retrieved washed-out tracks from the river after West Virginia’s 1985 flood. “But before we could bring a train into Elkins, we had to build a bridge. That wasn’t an easy undertaking, but we got the funding.” Smith is the president of the Durbin & Greenbrier Valley Railroad, a rail company comprised of several steam-driven and diesel powered Mountain Rail excursions that keeps West Virginia’s locomotive heritage alive. “In our first year, 1997, without any type of publicity, 5,000 people showed up to ride our train,” he recalls. “Even with the economy, we haven’t seen it slow down.” This railroad company keeps West Virginia’s railroad history alive by offering countless special train excursions to visitors year after year. “Trains are usually exciting for everyone. On a nice day we go along rivers and see the scenery. It’s a very interesting trip,” he says. “A lot of the special event trains, such as the Father’s Day train and The Great Train Race, sell out.” Trains like the New Tygart Flyer, Cass Scenic Railroad, Cheat Mountain Salamander, Durbin Rocket, Mountain Explorer Dinner Train, Castaway Caboose, and The Polar Express offer customers the finest service and one-of-a-kind experiences. “You’re going to ride a train, see the scenery, and get a meal at the same time,” Smith says. “It’s a time for everyone to relax, unwind, and enjoy riding a train.”

Whittaker Station Adult $37 ($42) Child $27 ($32) Senior $35 ($40)

Wild Heart Adventure Package 5.5-hour round trip departs 11:20 a.m. Adult $149 ($154) Child $139 ($144) Senior $147 ($152)

DURBIN DEPARTURE

CASS DEPARTURE

New Tygart Flyer This four-hour train ride transports guests across 46 miles of awe-inspiring mountain scenery into a 1,500-foot canyon covered with dense forest. The train crosses the bridge of the Shavers Fork of the Cheat River, where visitors marvel at the beauty of the 18-foot-high, 150-foot-wide waterfall. This roundtrip journey also includes lunch. The 1922-era Pullman Parlor Car is one of the

most popular seats on this train for those who want a perfect view of the West Virginia wilderness. Guests can also choose from a selection of wines when riding in the Parlor Car. Mountain Explorer Dinner Train The New Tygart Flyer was such a success Smith decided to add a new train to the mix in 2008. The beautifully appointed Mountain Explorer Dinner Train provides a more refined four-course dining experience for passengers as they enjoy watching evening descend on the peaks and canyons of the Monongahela National Forest and Cheat River. “Before airplanes, dining service on trains was top-shelf, and that’s what we are trying to re-create. All of our recipes are original menu items from the 1930s to ’60s,” he says. “On our trains, you can go 25 miles an hour and drink wine without spilling it.” Smith says the dinner train hosts murder mysteries every other week. Guests are invited to eat a fourcourse meal and watch as the play unfolds around them. Sit back, relax, and enjoy the full dinner service complete with smooth jazz. The Polar Express Talk about magical. Tickets to ride The Polar Express, offered around the holiday season, sell quickly. In fact, Smith says The Polar Express is the Durbin & Greenbrier Valley Railroad’s most popular train. This nighttime train ride, based on the book of the same name by Chris Van Allsburg, transports families on a memorable journey to the North Pole. Santa and his helpers greet children with warm smiles and give silver bells to passengers who believe. During the journey dancing chefs will serve hot chocolate to visitors in souvenir cocoa mugs and read the classic story. Durbin Rocket Built in 1910 for the Moore-Keppel Lumber Company in Randolph County, this 55-ton locomotive is one of the rarest trains in the world—it is one of three surviving Climax geared logging trains. This train uses two steam cylinders under the center of the boiler to transfer power to the front and rear of the train. A two-hour steam train ride on the Durbin Rocket covers more than 10 miles of dense forest terrain in the Monongahela National Forest. Smith recommends this ride to young families for its beautiful view and intimate experience with the crew. Visitors can ride in historic vintage coaches and cabooses and watch the black smoke rise to the sky as the steam engine chugs along. Along the way the train will drop guests opting to spend the night in the Castaway Caboose along the Greenbrier River before going on to chug along through the mountains.

Durbin Rocket Adult $30 ($35) Child $20 ($25) Senior $26 ($33)

Castaway Caboose First night $275 Second night $190 Third night $150 Prices include up to four people; Additional occupants $30 each

Castaway Caboose Smith says the Castaway Caboose is a West Virginia favorite of the Durbin & Greenbrier Valley Railroad. “You do have to reserve it a year in advance,” he says. “It’s very peaceful down there in the national forest. People love it.” Visitors can choose from one of two refurbished original Wabash railroad cabooses and spend the gotowv.com 149

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Side Tracks The 1.5-hour roundtrip ride from historic downtown Cass to Whittaker Station in covered, open-air cars behind a preserved Shay steam-driven locomotive is a great trip for children. At Whittaker Station, the location of the authentic logging camp recreated by the volunteers of the Mountain State Railroad & Logging Historical Association, passengers have the opportunity to get off the train to enjoy the views and tour the camp. Restrooms are available at this stop. Trains depart from downtown Cass at 11 a.m. and 2:15 p.m.

night under the stars in the quiet wilderness along the Greenbrier River. The Durbin Rocket, attached with the Castaway Cabooses, picks up at the train depot. The train runs backward, caboose first, to the secluded destination by the Greenbrier River and drops visitors off to sleep in the caboose deep in the forest. Each caboose holds up to six adults and includes amenities like refrigerators, linens and towels, and full restrooms with hot showers. The caboose even has electricity, courtesy of solar panels. Cheat Mountain Salamander Named after the legendary Cheat Mountain salamander, this locomotive offers three- and nine-hour rides through the beautiful Cheat Mountain. Visitors go through a long “S” curve tunnel underneath the mountain to the High Falls of Cheat, where they can stretch their legs and admire the mountain’s natural beauty. Lunch is included with ticket fare. Cass Scenic Railroad In 2014 Durbin & Greenbrier Valley Railroad assumed the operations of the historic Cass Scenic Railroad. According to DGVR group packaging specialist, Matt Scott, this new connection opens an array of opportunity for group sales and consumer 150 explore • 2016

BALD KNOB

At an elevation of 4,842 feet, Bald Knob is the third highest point in West Virginia. Located 11 miles up the mountain from Cass, the Bald Knob overlook on a clear day offers spectacular views into two states and across the valley below, home to the National Radio Astronomy Observatory. A “King of the Road” Hobo Lunch is served at the Old Spruce connection point to be enjoyed en route to Bald Knob. This 4.5-hour roundtrip excursion departs from downtown Cass at 11:20 a.m., Tuesday through Sunday until the fall season when trips are offered daily.

packaging that will ultimately increase overnight stays in the regional area. “With the ability to connect rail lines, we can now offer a brand new product to the group tour market,” Scott explains. “Tour operators are always looking for something new and different, and we have it. We’re calling it the Wild Heart of West Virginia Adventure Package.” The package concept offers a combined ride on two trains—the Cass Scenic Railroad and the Cheat Mountain Salamander—with overnight options in Elkins or Cass. Both groups and individual visitors have the opportunity to ride the steam-driven early 1900s Shays to Old Spruce, change over to the 1940s vintage diesel-powered Cheat Mountain Salamander, be served lunch onboard, ride into Elkins to enjoy a theater show, then return by the same route to Cass. On the other side of the coin, passengers can board in Elkins or Cheat Bridge, ride to Old Spruce, board the Cass Scenic Railroad, ride to Bald Knob and back down to Cass to stay in the historic company houses at the park, or, as a group, stay at Snowshoe Mountain Resort. “The options to this package are as diverse as the trains and attractions within these two counties,” Scott adds. “It can be a mix and match of choices, custom-tailored to the needs of the traveler.” 315 Railroad Avenue, Elkins; 877.686.7245; mountainrailwv.com

NIKKI BOWMAN

WHITTAKER STATION

Fun for Everyone Attractions kids ages nine to 99 are guaranteed to love. WHEN PLANNING A TRIP, it can be difficult to find something that

appeals to everyone in the family. And depending on your family, sometimes it’s nearly impossible. That’s why it’s always a good idea to a have a few aces tucked up your sleeve. So whether it’s old-timey carnival rides, a trip to a hands-on museum, cuddly animals, or adrenaline-pumping waterslides, here’s a list of attractions sure to please everyone young and old. Beckley Exhibition Coal Mine This one-of-a kind experience takes guests back to the early 20th century, with a recreated coal camp featuring a typical coal miner’s house, a superintendent’s home, a church, and a schoolhouse. But the real attraction is the mine itself. Visitors ride a “man trip” 1,500 feet into the mountain, accompanied by veteran coal miner tour guides who provide firsthand accounts of what it’s really like to work beneath a mountain. Tours run from April through November. 513 Ewart Avenue, Beckley; 304.252.3730; beckley.org/exhibition_coal_mine The Culture Center Located in the heart of the capital city, the Culture Center is home to the West Virginia State Museum. The museum takes visitors through the history of the state—from way before the written word up to the modern day—telling our story through paleontology, archaeology, geology, culture, and art. Give your group at least a few hours to explore the museum and its 26 “discovery rooms.” And on your way out, be sure to stop by the museum’s gift shop for West Virginia-made souvenirs. 1900 Kanawha Boulevard East, Charleston; 304.558.0220; wvculture.org

CARLA WITT FORD

Oglebay Resort’s Good Zoo Take a walk on the wild side at the Good Zoo at Oglebay Resort in Wheeling. The zoo is home to more than 60 species of animals, 20 of which are endangered. Visitors can take a deep dive into nature during one of the zoo’s hands-on Discover Labs—or lounge by the lake, hit the greens, and indulge in a spa treatment. The resort also hosts Oglebayfest, the Festival of Lights, and a summer entertainment series annually. 465 Lodge Drive, Wheeling; 304.243.4000; oglebay-resort.com Water Ways Sitting on a strip of land surrounded by the Little Coal River, Boone County’s Water Ways is not just a West

Virginia destination—it attracts visitors from as far as Kentucky, Virginia, and Ohio, according to Russell Thomas, director of Boone County Parks and Recreation. “It varies, but we could go through 40,000 to 50,000 wristbands a summer,” he says. Families have their pick of picnic shelters, a lazy river, two kiddie pools, 18 holes of miniature golf, a junior Olympic-size pool, body waterslides, tube waterslides, and ball fields, not to mention a walking trail from one end of the park to the other and an amphitheater still in the works. “There’s a lot to do,” Russell says. “We’re easy to get to, right on Corridor G, and it’s a nice place.” 628 Waterway Road, Julian; 304.369.1235; waterwayspark.net

IT’S EASY TO IMAGINE that unfamiliar drivers along Huntington’s Harvey Road might think they’d not only gotten lost, but traveled back in time to the 19th century. That’s because just miles from downtown, Heritage Farm Museum and Village, West Virginia’s first Smithsonian Institution Affiliate, offers visitors a unique, historical Appalachian experience complete with museums filled to the brim with displays and antiques not found elsewhere in the region. For more than 40 years, Mike and Henriella Perry worked to make a monument to Appalachian history come to life, and the results are impressive—it’s West Virginia’s Williamsburg. While Heritage Farm may look like a vast historical playground today, it came from humble beginnings. In 1973, the Perrys bought a 150-acre farm on the outskirts of Huntington. It was while renovating the property’s farmhouse that 152 explore • 2016

they got a glimpse into the past. The couple—along with their three young children—had recently made a life-changing decision: to move from their brick home on Huntington’s South Side to the farm, where the only dwelling was a structure that lacked heat, electricity, and indoor plumbing. People wondered, “What are they thinking?” but for Henriella, the answer was simple. “I knew our family would be happier out here,” she says. After removing layers of wallboard inside the house, a handhewn log emerged. That discovery prompted an earnest exploration of Appalachian history. As they began to collect furniture, farm tools, cooking ware, and other artifacts, Mike and Henriella became ambassadors of their heritage. “These remarkable men and women came over the mountains, and with just their own two hands, built their homes, raised all of their own food, and made their clothes.

NIKKI BOWMAN

Heritage Farm Museum and Village

TRAVEL TIMES

Charleston, WV 1 hour Charlotte 5 hrs, 20 mins Columbus 2 hrs, 40 mins Pittsburgh 4 hrs, 30 mins Washington, DC 6 hrs, 10 mins Toronto 8 hrs, 30 mins

They were some of the most remarkable people who have ever lived in this great country,” says Audy Perry, Mike and Henriella’s son, who now operates Heritage Farm. Over the years, the Perry family transformed their property into a tourism destination. The now more than 500 acres of history and entertainment first opened to visitors in the 1990s. “My parents’ vision for the farm was to ensure that all of our guests, whether they’re coming to the museum or to stay in one of the homes, leave with a better appreciation and understanding of why we’re so proud of our Appalachian heritage,” Perry says. Visitors experience the history in many forms. Seven stand-alone museums offer glimpses into early Appalachian pioneer life and hands-on activities for both young and old. The Progress Museum shows domestic life in 1850, 1900, and 1925 with displays covering everything from an early arcade to large model train layouts. The steam engines at Heritage Farm are of particular interest to many visitors. The Industry Museum invites guests to explore advancements in regional industry and commerce like timber and coal, and The Transportation and Mill Museum displays a collection of early automobiles, trucks, and even a stagecoach. Other exhibits emphasize the realities of pioneer life and labor. There are the Shingle and Saw Mills and Blacksmith Shop on the grounds, and for more fun, a

Farm Zoo and a children’s Activity Barn, where kids can play with a typewriter, learn to milk pretend cows, and watch bees building a hive. The newest museum, The Bowes Doll and Carriage Museum, features one of the best private collections of dolls in the country and will delight children and adults alike. Many attractions are open to visitors year-round, but Heritage Farm also holds special monthly events called Way Back Weekends. Guests seeking a lengthier farm experience can choose to stay in one of the beautiful and antique-filled homes, each with fully equipped kitchens. Heritage Farm’s five inns hark back to a simpler time, before the buzz of cell phones or televisions. Instead, stimulation comes from the views from front porch rocking chairs, a game of checkers, or a hike along the property’s five miles of trails. The 9,000-square-foot Barn Conference and Retreat Center is an 1800s dairy barn that can accommodate large gatherings like camps and church retreats and includes five meeting rooms, two large bunk rooms, a kitchen, and bathroom facilities. One of the newest lodging additions is a N&W Virginian caboose, where guests can experience our railway past. While the farm is located in a rural setting, it’s just a few miles from downtown Huntington and Marshall University. It’s also a short distance from Beech Fork Lake State Park and shopping at the Huntington Mall. No matter the reason for visiting Heritage Farm, the Perrys hope the property will inspire guests and, in particular, young people. “We hope they will dream, think of what they might be, and realize that they can be anything they aspire to be, just like the people who came before us,” Audy says. “Within our blood is all of that same spirit that created this great place we call West Virginia.” 3300 Harvey Road, Huntington; 304.522.1244; heritagefarmmuseum.com gotowv.com 153

Real. WONDER

Heavy with History Trace West Virginia’s origins at these Civil War sites.

AMERICA’S DEADLIEST WAR was the one fought

Carnifex Ferry Battlefield State Park At the battle of Carnifex Ferry on Sept. 10, 1861, Confederates failed to regain control of the Kanawha Valley. As a result, West Virginia’s statehood proceeded without serious threat. Now the state park sits on the rim of the Gauley River Canyon, minutes from Summersville Lake. At this official Civil War Discovery Trail site, visitors can also picnic, reserve one of four shelters, take a walk on the trails, enjoy three views overlooking the Gauley River, or entertain themselves at the softball field, volleyball court, horseshoe pits, and the Patterson House Museum. 1194 Carnifex Ferry Road, Summersville; carnifexferrybattlefieldstatepark.com Cheat Summit Fort Take a step back in time and see the earthworks that remain at this Civil War site. General George B. McClellan ordered this fort to be built in 1861 to secure the StauntonParkersburg Turnpike and protect the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. The Confederacy failed to take the fort in September 1861. In the October Battle of Greenbrier River, troops from Cheat Summit Fort attacked Camp Bartow. Neither side could claim victory, and the Union troops returned to Cheat Summit Fort while the Confederates withdrew to Camp Allegheny. In December, soldiers from Cheat Summit Fort attacked Camp Allegheny, but were driven back. The site is also significant for what is thought to be the earliest use of telegraph technology in the Civil War. 200 Sycamore Street, Elkins 154 explore • 2016

Independence Hall This is where it all began. Nearly six years before President Abraham Lincoln signed the proclamation making West Virginia the 35th state in the Union, construction had begun on the Wheeling Custom House, federal headquarters for the Western District of Virginia. Its completion, at the beginning of the Civil War, provided a facility for heated political discussions and constitutional conventions that led to eventual statehood for West Virginia. Here, issues dividing many Virginians—slavery being one—were debated, compromised, and shaped into the skeleton of statehood. On June 11, 1861, delegates from 26 western counties met here to discuss the matters at hand. A later session authorized a referendum to create a new state, Kanawha, later named West Virginia, though not everyone who fell within the new state was in agreement. At Independence Hall, a state constitution was drafted. The building has been restored with period rooms and exhibitions. 1528 Market Street, Wheeling John Brown Wax Museum The John Brown Wax Museum shows us Brown’s hatred of slavery, traces his violent exploits, and depicts scenes from his raid on Harpers Ferry. The museum, open from mid-March through mid-December, graphically tells the story of Brown and the raid on Harpers Ferry through 87 life-sized figures, voice, music, and animation. The seizure of the federal arsenal at Harpers Ferry took place in 1859 by Brown, the fiery abolitionist. His plan for arming the slaves of northern Virginia and inciting a general uprising, together with the secrecy with which his plan was carried out, threw the South into a panic. 168 High Street, Harpers Ferry; johnbrownwaxmuseum.com Jefferson County Courthouse and Museum This 1836 Greek Revival brick building was built on land donated by George Washington’s youngest brother, Charles. It was the site of the famous

REBECCA KIGER FOTOGRAFIA

on American soil and amongst one another—brothers, cousins, neighbors, friends. But the grim wages of the Civil War paved a silver lining to freedom and to the very formation of Wild, Wonderful West Virginia. The Mountain State was admitted into the Union on June 20, 1863, becoming the only state to form by separating from the Confederacy. Many West Virginia soldiers put their lives on the line during the bloody battle, fighting on both sides of the conflict. They took to the hills and valleys, engaging in warfare that has left a lasting legacy among the mountains. Several Civil War sites in West Virginia can be visited today, as the heritage and history remain ever-present.

Born from the embers of the American Civil War, West Virginia is brimming with lessons about the country’s bloodiest conflict.

trial of John Brown in 1859. During the Civil War, it served as barracks for Union troops. The museum includes information on John Brown’s Raid, plus china, textiles, toys, photos, and Civil War documents. 200 East Washington Street, Charles Town; jeffcomuseumwv.org Laurel Hill Civil War Battleground The site of the longest battle in the Tygart Valley Campaign is in Barbour County. Here, Union forces ousted the Confederate army and protected important turnpikes, securing safe passage to Wheeling for the founding fathers to plan for West Virginia statehood. On July 11, 1861, within earshot of Laurel Hill, Union General McClellan’s troops won a decisive battle at Rich Mountain. Confederate General Garnett found his army cut off at Laurel Hill. Visit the battlefield—open year-round—or take a stroll on the marked walking trails. Belington; battleoflaurelhill.org

CARLA WITT FORD

Philippi Covered Bridge & Historic District Built in 1852, this covered bridge in Philippi was heavily used by both armies during the Civil War. During one battle, Union troops took control of the bridge and used it as a barracks. The bridge narrowly escaped burning in April and May 1863 at the time of the Confederate raids on the B&O Railroad west of Cumberland, Maryland. Orders were issued by Union General William E. Jones for the burning of it and of the covered bridge at Rowlesburg, but the intercession of several locals of Southern sympathies saved both. Fire would severely damage the bridge in 1989, but it has been restored to its original appearance. It is the only covered bridge still serving the federal highway system. 200 North Main Street, Philippi Rich Mountain Battlefield & Beverly Historic District This early Union victory set the stage for West Virginia’s statehood. The July 1861 battle for control of the Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike

took place five miles west of Beverly. The Rich Mountain Battlefield site has more than 400 protected acres, including the battle site at the top of Rich Mountain, the Confederate Camp Garnett, and a section of the Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike. Group and guided tours are available by appointment, and the battlefield is open year-round. 4 Court Street, Beverly; historicbeverly.org Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum Reported paranormal activity and Civil War tales make this haunted tour a must for ghost hunters. This National Historic Landmark was built in 1858, before the Civil War, and is the largest hand-cut stone masonry building in North America. The asylum would play a role during the war as Confederate raiders would strip the facility of all food and clothing intended for its first group of patients. Designed to house 250 patients, the hospital peaked at 2,400 patients in the 1950s. The hospital closed in 1994 and is now open to the public for guided tours. 71 Asylum Drive, Weston; trans-alleghenylunaticasylum.com WVU Jackson’s Mill Historic Area & Lodge Many, many years ago, this was the site of the boyhood home of General Thomas J. “Stonewall” Jackson. He and his sister, Laura, came here as orphans in 1830. The brother and sister remained close throughout their lives until, like so many families, they found themselves on opposite sides of the Civil War. Laura opened her house in Beverly to Union troops as a hospital. Meanwhile, Thomas—well, you probably know his story. The Old Mill, the last of the original buildings, features a museum of artifacts relating to 19th century West Virginia homesteads. Other period structures include an operational 1794 water-powered gristmill, a weaving shop, a blacksmith shop, a 1793 cabin, and a gift shop and heritage center. Bus tours are welcome with advance arrangement. 160 WVU Jackson’s Mill, Weston; jacksonsmill.ext.wvu.edu gotowv.com 155

Real. WONDER

Kumbrabow State Forest, Huttonsville Camp above it all when you visit Kumbrabow, the state’s highest forest, 3,000 to 3,930 feet above sea level. Hike, fish, or visit one of the nearby scenic attractions such as Cass Scenic Railroad or Holly River State Park. The 9,474 acres of forest in Randolph County is located along the western edge of the Allegheny Highlands. Choose from fully equipped rustic pioneer cabins or bring your tent or RV. On-site amenities include a bathhouse with laundry, picnic areas, and a children’s playground. 304.355.2219; kumbrabow.com

Get Out Make memories that will last forever in the great outdoors.

WHEN THE WEATHER’S NICE, there’s no reason to stay cooped

up indoors. Camping is one of the best ways to enjoy the late spring, summer, and early fall in West Virginia—it’s fun and relatively inexpensive, too. But the prospect of sleeping in the great outdoors can be intimidating for novices. Luckily, there are many spots where families can “rough it” without things getting too rough. Here are some select campgrounds around the state. For more, check out gotowv.com/places-to-stay/camping. Chestnut Ridge Park & Campground, Bruceton Mills Quaint, picturesque, and surrounded by Coopers Rock State Forest and West Virginia University Forest, Chestnut Ridge Park and Campground is more than 16,000 acres of rustic campsites, wooded trails, and two scenic lakes just a short drive from Morgantown. Summer Saturday evenings at Chestnut Ridge Park and Campground provide the perfect setting to enjoy music with the entire family. The Mountain Music Concert Series runs from June through September, featuring bluegrass music on an outdoor stage ($5 admission, kids under 12 are free). In August, the park is home to the Mountain Music Bluegrass Festival. The area offers two playgrounds and plenty of picnic space as well as electric and water hookups and a dump station. 346 Chestnut Ridge Camp Road, Bruceton Mills; 304.594.1773; chestnutridgepark.com Beech Fork State Park, Barboursville This Cabell County state park offers several distinct areas for campers and visitors alike, including many lakefront campsites. Sites are equipped with water, sewer, and electric. The campgrounds include full-service bathrooms as well as a coin-operated laundry. Each campsite has a grill and picnic table. The park offers pedal boats, kayaks, and rowboats for rent. Visitors can also cool off in the park’s 50-meter swimming pool. “This park has everything: wildlife, swimming pool, cabins, and boat dock,” says Rhonda Lambert of the Huntington area. 5601 Long Branch Road, Barboursville; 304.528.5794, beechforksp.com Mountain Lake Campground & Cabins, Summersville Mountain Lake is known across the state for its campground, which offers everything from cabins and lakefront sites to rental RVs and rustic tent sites. The campground has miniature golf, a swimming pool, playgrounds, and basketball courts, and it is a short distance from horseback riding, rafting boat rentals, scuba diving, rock climbing, and more. Electricity is offered on-site and a dump station is available. Some of the cabins are pet friendly. 1898 Summersville Airport Road, Summersville; 304.872.6222; mountainlakecampground.com 156 explore • 2016

Seneca Shadows Campground, Seneca Rocks This campground is home to a premier view of Seneca Rocks and easy access to rock climbing, canoeing, kayaking, and swimming, and it’s near caves and other West Virginia treasures. Facilities include showers, a comfort station, and firewood. “Seneca Shadows Campground is awesome. It has a great view of the rocks, is well-maintained, and is a good jumping off point for the Spruce Knob-Seneca Rocks National Recreation Area,” says Traci Leibig of Morgantown. WV Route 28, Seneca Rocks; 304.567.3082 Lake Sherwood, White Sulphur Springs This remote area of Greenbrier County invites visitors to kick off their shoes and take in the beauty of West Virginia. The recreation area along the Monongahela National Forest offers plenty of hiking and fishing. The park’s campground is pet friendly. “The best part is that there is nothing else around. It’s peaceful and quiet. They have a great lake, walking trails, and beach,” says Amanda McClellan of Oak Hill. 304.536.2144; greenbrierwv.com/explore/attraction/lake_sherwood Holly River, Hacker Valley The dense forest of Holly River State Park creates an ideal retreat for families. Located near the center of the state in Webster County, this park offers hiking, swimming, and overnight lodging. The campground offers electric hookups, picnic tables, grills, a dumping station, bathhouses, and coin-operated laundry. The park also has cabins available for rent. Holly River is the second-largest park in West Virginia, at more than 8,000 acres. 680 State Park Road, Hacker Valley; 304.493.6353; hollyriver.com

Get Set

Don’t get lost in the woods. Here are a few tips to keep you and your family safe and sound.

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MAKE A LIST A few days before your camping trip, sit down and make a list of everything you’ll need. There are the basics: a tent, sleeping bags, the air mattress, backpacks, clothing, etc. But it’s easy to forget essentials. Don’t forget utensils, flashlights, extra batteries, a first aid kit. You’ll also want to pack something to collect your trash, and some kind of water container for when it’s time to clean up after meals.

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FIRST THINGS FIRST When you arrive at the campground, it’s tempting to take off on an adventure right away. But make use of the sunshine and set up all your gear first. Pitch the tents, arrange your camp kitchen. That way, when you come back to camp tired and hungry, you’ll be ready to make a meal and hit the hay.

REBECCA DEVONO PHOTOGRAPHY

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BE PREPARED

BE SAFE

This isn’t a hotel. Nature can be unpredictable. What if it rains during your trip? Wet weather doesn’t have to stop the fun. Pack some board games or card games to keep everyone entertained, or a musical instrument for singalongs if you’re talented in that way. Also, don’t be afraid to play in the rain, as long as you take proper precautions.

Lots of West Virginia’s most scenic areas do not have reliable cell phone coverage. Before you leave home, tell a trusted friend or family member about your plans. Tell them exactly where you’re going, what you’re doing, and when you’ll be back.

Real. WONDER

Take Me Out to the Ball Game FAR AWAY FROM THE BIG-MONEY contracts,

gargantuan crowds, and $5 hot dogs of the big leagues, Minor League Baseball games allow fans of all ages to sit back and just enjoy the game—without spending an arm and a leg. West Virginia is home to four Minor League ballparks, each guaranteed to provide an evening of all-American fun for the whole family. So go ahead and buy those peanuts and Cracker Jacks. You won’t care if you never get back.

Princeton Rays Just about 10 miles up the road from Bluefield you’ll find one of their Appalachian League rivals, the Princeton Rays. After serving as a farm team for the Pittsburgh Pirates and Cincinnati Reds, Princeton’s minor league team became a Tampa Bay Rays affiliate in 1997. This team has also produced its share of Big League players, including Johnny Gomes, who was part of the Kansas City Royals’ 2015 World Series championship team. The Princeton Rays play at H.P. Hunnicutt Field. The ballpark is a central part of the community, since it is also home of the Princeton Middle School and Princeton High School baseball teams. But it’s only during Rays game that fans are treated to the antics of a giant rooster named Roscoe, the team’s effervescent mascot. 205 Old Bluefield Road, Princeton; 304.487.2000; princetonrays.net 158 explore • 2016

West Virginia Power It’s always a party when Charleston’s minor league team, the West Virginia Power, is in town. Baseball has a long history in West Virginia’s capital city, but the completion of Appalachian Power Park in 2005 gave the sport a prominent place in the downtown landscape. The park has plenty of dining options and fans can watch the game from their seats or from a large picnic area in left field. Kids will enjoy the “Fun Zone” play area behind center field. Reserve a seat near home plate to see world-class heckler Rod Blackstone, better known as “Toast Man.” Toast Man celebrates each opposing player’s strikeout with a customary chant—“T-O-A-S-T. You. Are. Toast!”—before tossing charred pieces of bread to the crowd. 601 Morris Street, Charleston; 304.344.BATS; wvpower.com West Virginia Black Bears The newest addition to West Virginia’s minor league family is the West Virginia Black Bears. The team played its first season in 2015 at the newly completed Monongalia County Ballpark—a $21 million, 2,500-seat facility the team shares with West Virginia University. Like the Power, the Black Bears serve as a Pittsburgh Pirates farm team. It’s a convenient arrangement for die-hard fans, since Pittsburgh is only about an hour and 30 minutes away from Morgantown. 2040 Gyorko Drive, Morgantown; 304.293.7910; westvirginiablackbears.com

WV POWER

Bluefield Blue Jays Bluefield is a small town that’s big on baseball. Although “Nature’s Air Conditioned City” only has about 10,000 residents, its longtime ball club has won 14 Appalachian League championships—a league record—and was previously home to three Major League Baseball hall-of-famers. Frank Robinson, Cal Ripken Jr., and Boog Powell all made stops in Bluefield on their way to the big leagues. The Bluefield Blue Jays play at Bowen Field, the same park the team has called home since 1939. With an old-school grandstand and an outfield that looks out onto the green rolling hills of southern West Virginia, it may make you feel like an extra in Field of Dreams. 3000 College Drive, Bluefield, Virginia

For the Fur Kids A family adventure isn’t complete without the family pet. If you’re a dog lover, you’ll probably agree that taking Sparky (or Rover, or Fido) with you on a walk in the woods adds so much to the experience. A dog’s romping, ever-curious, and excited nature makes even familiar sights seem new again. Here are some of the best outdoor destinations to take dogs in West Virginia—though, needless to say, follow all leash laws and trail etiquette, and remember that not everybody likes being charged by an overexcited dog!

Ski Whitegrass With nearly 40

and flat, sunny rocks to lounge on after he’s worn himself out. Since the surfing is literally only feet from shore, you might even try your hand at getting Rover out on that board— though he may never forgive you! Rent boards and get directions at the ACE gear shop, which is also a good place to find pet-friendly lodging.

Surf the Gauley River at the Perfect Wave What? Surfing in

Splash in the Greenbrier River

miles of groomed cross-country ski trails, Whitegrass in Davis is one of the best winter sports destinations in West Virginia. And the private park allows dogs on some of its trails! After a long day of skiing, when Sparky is exhausted, make sure to check out the amazing organic café.

West Virginia? Yes, it exists. At most summer river levels, the Gauley River’s “Perfect Wave” is an excellent beginner spot to try stand-up paddleboard (SUP) surfing. And your dog will love it, too, with plenty of pools to jump in

Appalachian Power Park in downtown Charleston is a perfect place to spend an afternoon with the whole family.

It’s not all about hiking with some dogs. If Pooch loves water and is able to relax a bit, consider taking him on a river trip. They even make life jackets for dogs, believe it or not! The Greenbrier has more than 100 miles of flatwater and easy splashy rapids up to Class II through beautiful forests, perfect for putting a dog in that canoe or inflatable kayak.

Relax at Stonewall Resort If Fido

enjoys the finer things in life, consider Stonewall Resort in Roanoke. This pet-friendly resort makes for a perfect getaway with your four-legged friends. Just be aware, Stonewall limits pets to 25 pounds, and animals must be kept on leashes at all times.

GREG BARNETT PHOTOGRAPHY

Hike the Cranberry Glades Wilderness, one of the largest

roadless areas east of the Mississippi, with open fields, beautiful rivers, and thick forests. One of the more accessible trails of the area is an old railroad grade that follows the splashy, stately Williams River for a dozen miles, through thick stands of trees and ferns. There are plenty of spots for Fido to jump in and cool off in the summer. gotowv.com 159

Picking and Grinning

White Oak Farm in Renick allows visitors to pick their own blueberries.

IN THE WARM SUMMER DAYS OF JULY and August it’s time to schedule your visits around West Virginia’s berry farms. Throw on some clothes you don’t mind getting dirty and get picking. Blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, strawberries, and more are waiting for you. McConnell’s Farm is located about 10 miles south of Morgantown and offers blueberries and blackberries for picking. The picking season starts around the second week of July and runs for three to four weeks. 304.291.0015; mcconnellberryfarm.biz The White Oak Farm in Renick sits on 15 acres of land that is plentiful with fresh berries. Max and Anne Robinson purchased the land in 1993, and with the help of their four teenagers they maintain the land and farm operation to ensure visitors have plenty to pick during a trip to White Oak. 304.497.3577; whiteoakberryfarm.com The picking season generally runs from around the last week of June through the early days of August. The farm features 17 varieties of blueberries. “There are mild taste differences, but the biggest difference is when they ripen—some come in earlier, some come in later,” Max explains. “Some people come out and know the kind of berry they want, or they want to go to the same area they picked from last year.” Visitors are welcome at the farm during the mornings and evenings to beat the heat. White Oak is generally open

Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, 8 a.m. to noon and 4 to 8 p.m. At Morgan Orchard in beautiful Monroe County you can roam the countryside for apples with friends and family. Whether you are craving something sweet and juicy or tart and crispy, your perfect apple is waiting for you. The Morgan Orchard offers more than 23 varieties of apples. The picking season varies depending on what type of apple, but generally runs from August to October. Owners Eric and Kathy Johnson produce and sell their own apple cider for $1.50 a pint or $7 per gallon. If you are yearning for something other than an apple, Morgan Orchard also has blackberries, plums, raspberries, peaches, and nectarines to pick. Friendly farm workers can assist you on your quest for a specific find. Morgan Orchard is open every day but Wednesday during picking season. Visitors can take a break at one of the orchard’s picnic areas or peruse the gift store. Route 2 Box 114, Neff Orchard Road, Sinks Grove; 304.722.3638; morganorchardwv.com You’re sure to stay entertained at Gritt’s Farm in Putnam County. Get lost in the corn maze, shoot apples out of a slingshot and cannon, and slide down a mountain. But for fun you can take home with you, take the family into Gritt’s pumpkin patch and pick the perfect jack-o-lantern for your doorstep. 356 Gritt Road, Buffalo; 304.937.2565; grittsfarm.com

AMANDA REED PHOTOGRAPHY

From summer berry season to fall pumpkin patches, the Mountain State is full of pickyour-own farm adventures.

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