Borough Bites

Tasting Park Place

BY NJ ACKERMANN

The last destination on the left, a red lamp shines brightly onto the street. I pull open the door to find no podium or waitstaff. As a turntable spins out melodies near the door, I am approached by Josh Dambrowski, Front Of House Manager. He takes me to meet Philip Manganaro, chef and owner of Park Place Café & Restaurant.

“I only serve a tasting menu,” he says. “It’s been around for a very long time but lately is gaining a lot of attraction.” He speaks easily while he chops, whisks and flips something on the grill that looks a lot like tentacles.

A tasting menu utilizes rare and prized ingredients in smaller servings. A foodie’s

please see BITES, page 13

delight, it provides the opportunity to sample ingredients never experienced before. Moreover, it is a creation of a luxurious event, wherein the chef must display culinary proficiency, and the manager the ultimate level of hospitality. What sets Manganaro apart from the competition is that he doesn’t dictate what will be eaten. “People want their choices, and I want people to enjoy themselves,” he says.

A two-person operation, their six-course tasting menu consists of two meats, two fishes, a pasta or risotto and a dessert. “Josh does the front of the house, reservations and all the serving,” explains Manganaro. Sending the menu prior to the reservation, Dambrowski then discusses it with the customer and provides feedback. “If there’s something the guest doesn’t want, I’ll make other suggestions,” says Manganaro.

Influenced by nature, the food revolves around what Manganaro can find in the wild, locally or in his travels. Utilizing the art and craft of foraging, he even incorporates seaweed from Maine. Combining these natural flavors with his culinary innovation, he creates original dishes. “People really love that about the place. I’ve got a ton of unique ingredients here, because what I find you can’t buy at the shops, it’s just not commercially available.”

At the height of the flower season in spring, he’ll devise a six-course menu using a different wildflower for each serving. “There’s no way to create that unless you go and get it yourself,” he says. And he loves to use New Jersey Pine Barren needles and the pine mushrooms that grow under them, known as matsutake mushrooms. Burning the needles with other ingredients, he makes what he calls “forest fire ash.” Then, he’ll sear venison loin in the ash, and serve it with the mushrooms and perhaps some charred pine needle oil.

A BYOB with only four tables, Park Place has the feel of dining with extended family. Seating is carefully spaced so each table can receive personalized attention. Dambrowski brings a course for you to enjoy, then obtains your feedback. If ready for the next plate, he’ll notify Manganaro, who begins preparing the next course. It is carefully orchestrated teamwork. And, as Manganaro is not interested in a high turnover, the table is yours for the night.

“I opened this place originally just to be an extension of my home. I believe in good food and good times. We have all walks of life here at the same time, having a great time. Some people finish the meal in two hours, some people like to stay four or five hours, drink wine, talk, relax and just leave the world behind.” When I mention the record player, he chuckles. “We have a great collection. Three records are mine; the rest have been donated.”

For the holidays he offers cookies, cakes and eggnog, and gives out chocolate-covered torrone. On alternate years he offers New Year’s Eve fare and fireworks. Want to gift a dining experience? “We’ll make it happen,” he says.

While Park Place celebrates the holidays, it shares a deep relationship with the changing seasons and a tie to ecology. One year, June berries were scarce, forcing Manganaro to search for something else. Additionally, finding ways to preserve his harvest is one of Manganaro’s challenges. In April, he collects a hundred pounds of wild onions, called ramps. Having discovered a way to preserve them, he can now serve this spring flavor all year.

In fact, an idea of his is to do a “Summer in the Dead of Winter” menu, preserving summer harvests and presenting them six months later. This way, guests can experi-

BITES continued from page 12 dishes. “People really love that about the place. I’ve got a ton of unique ingredients here, because what I find you can’t buy at the shops, it’s just not ence flavors even after they are long gone. The Park Place dining program is a good At the height of the flower season in spring, he’ll devise a six-course menu using a different wildflower way to experience the full range of seasonal dishes, and gives you priority seating no matter how frequently you dine. Now in its sixth year, Park Place is booked three months in advance. According to reviews, it should be. The food is exceptional, the atmosphere is different and the experience is unforgettable. 

ence flavors even after they matter how frequently you dine.

PHOTOS BY KEARA R. GIANNOTTI‘ Park Place presents guests with a sixcourse tasting menu consisting of two meats, two fishes, a pasta or risotto and a dessert.

24/7 Emergency Roofing Repairs

Do You Have Any Old Rough

Drafty Wood Windows?

We Can Install New Smooth Energy

Star Vinyl Windows.

Please Call To Schedule Your Appointment

With One Of Our Technicians

59 W Maple Ave, Merchantville, NJ 08109 (856)786-9333 • (856)364-8400

gasperroofing@gmail.com