Model: @b__joux
Model: @b__joux
ART
A N D Y
W O RH L
ARCITECTURE
FA
B J A R K E I N G E L S
V I R G
SHION
G I L
A B L O H
MUSIC
P H A R R E L L
FILM
N A B I L
ART This exhibition at the Houston Gallery of contemporary arts is the first major survey and accounts for over 20 years of Sculptural and canvas based work. The Contemporary gallery displays the work of Annabeth Rosen’s recent and early sculptural artistry, ranging from the miniature to much larger scales. In her development as a youth artistic expression was an encouraged pathway for Rosen to explore. Creativity to be part of a daily routine, her father was an idiosyncratic inventor who developed mechanisms throughout the home. Her mother was a designer of attire for children before joining the acclaimed Fashion Institute of Technology. This commentary on Annabeth Rosen’s work is an insight into the concepts within her work and dissecting the consistencies behind her sculptural art. Ms Rosen’s work is a combination of form, exploration and thought. Ms Rosen is a Brooklyn born artist and received her Bachelors of Fine Arts (BFA) from NYS State College of Ceramics at Alfred University. Over time her practice has evolved into conceptually driven sculptural forms, causing the conversation of ceramic contemporary art to permeate through the exhibition at the Houston Contemporary gallery.
Annabeth Rosen Fired Broken, gathered, Heaped
Initially engaging with traditional ceramic forms incorporating landscape and nature, she sought to develop open her abilities and add a conceptual element to her ceramic pieces. Rosen experiments with the conventional methods of using clay. Adding wet, raw forms to already -fired pottery shards. Breaking the mould and adding an extra dimension to ‘completed’ ceramic pieces. In her development as a youth Artistic expression was an encouraged pathway for Rosen to explore, causing creativity to be part of a daily routine. Through her lineage of seamstresses Rosen was greatly inspired by her mother and grandmother, design and textile were her first love. This aspect of her life is evidently an influence in her relationship with clay as she works as though her ceramics are fabrics that can be added to and maneuverer to fit her vision. In continuous investigation of the temporal nature of ceramics, constantly depicting a conversation between material, process, and an element of movement, straining the boundaries of her material of choice explaining, “I think of the fired pieces as being as malleable as wet clay” Her additive techniques reduce the constraint of rigidity that Fired ceramic can be associated with. She pushes the medium beyond spectacle and into conversation about endurance based performances, feminist thought, contemporary painting, and conceptual art.
Rosen is in her natural environment when offering the viewer the insecurity of not being completely sure her beautiful work is bounded together by a wire will not come undone at their feet. It develops an intrigue between viewer and art causing an inquisitive thought process on how the art came to its completion. There is also a debate within the mind of the viewer as to if the piece is bounded together in delicate perfection or deliberate disorder. Rosen embraces process and chance as essential elements in the formation of her art. Mistakes and unexpected outcomes are welcomed with open arms. Rosen has disclosed of her work “I break almost as much ceramic as I make.� Further describing such as a learning process due to her zeal to execute her vision little details are overlooked such as shapes and ideas. Much of her completed work has been broken ceramics that have been reassembled, re-glazed and re-fired. Revered as an artist that sparks inspiration to others in her field, she is a pioneer of contemporary ceramics, bringing fluidity and transformability to the genre and paving the way for greater projects in contemporary art.
A Better Yesterday A Better Yesterday is an exhibition curated in the Contemporary Arts Museum Houston which display Three very different histories and backgrounds. The exhibition has the vision of displaying colourful and ambiguously fictional situations that put the picture frame against the viewer and cause them to reminisce of days when their imagination was limitless and colours were more vibrant. A Better Yesterday, curated by CAMH Director Bill Arning, promotes work by JooYoung Choi, Lily van der Stokker and Jack Early. All these artists bring forth their unique perspectives on childhood visualisation. In the mix of the vibrancy and vivid imagery also expresses the traumas into a conversation with their present lives.
JooYoung Choi Lily van der Stokker Jack Early
Through all forms of creativity such as Video, music, painting, and sculpture, artist JooYoung Choi documents the interrelationship between all media aiding the narratives of a highly systematic and expansive fictional land called the Cosmic Womb. Guided by the Cosmic Womb mythology, Choi creates Work that fuses stunning visual form with reference to her autobiography. In relation to the CAMH exhibition JooYoung Choi challenges the audience to debate why imaginary playmates are detached from adults. Is it because they are too absorbed in the day to day realities of life? Or as we grow older are we continuously dismissing an imagination as being primitive and immature? The Houston Based artist Choi has lived between two worlds and builds a new landscape within her art. She was born in Korea and raised by adoptive parents in the U.S. Throughout her Career Choi has explored the creation of richly psychedelic imagery focused on characters. She then turned her attention to alternate realities. Yielding the creation of an epic mythology for a land she titles “Cosmic Womb”. Her multiple disciplinary approach to creation inform her vibrant characters by the name of Queen Kiok, The Tuplets, Spacia, Noiro and C.S. Watson. The beautiful value of Choi’s work is its ability to unlock the viewers mind into a magical state and time where the wold is as graceful and alluring as possible. She has stated numerously, creating fictional characters is a marvellous ability and should not be something constricted to childhood visualisation. These characters extend beyond the canvas and explores their livelihood through video, installation and three-dimensional artistry.
JooYoung Choi Lily van der Stokker Jack Early
Lily van der Stokker is a Dutch Artist based in Amsterdam and New York. Her art similar to Choi has childlike connotations and take the viewer back to memories of infancy. Her work often takes form of elaborate and decorative wall drawings and are a commentary on adolescent naivety. Her large-scale wall paintings and environs are central to her formula of creation. Creating imagery of almost pulling the viewer into the art through its multi-surface display. Her wall paintings are noted for their outlines with flat areas of colour and often resemble illustrations of a child, overflowing with simplistic flowers, patterns and loops which are commonly represented in spontaneous drawings by minors. Van der Stokker’s works can be very challenging at times also. She has been recognised as an increasingly important artist in the growing discourse of postfeminist practice, playing on stereotypical femininity. This developed her style she coins ‘non-shouting feminism’, which may be a way of separating her work from the connotations of feminism through the subtlety of her art. The visuals she creates have psychological effects that may be complicated or contradictory due to her life experiences which are a key element of the whole exhibition. Van der Stokker showcased a suite of drawings based on her longest relationship at the CAMH. Sadly, the relationship ended in her partners death. The contradiction or contrast comes in the form of creating vibrant nostalgic reverie, remembering the past fondly and creating a blissful picture that hints at loss and anguish. If a wall painting can be comprehensive and a monument to inescapable reality of the passage of finite human life, her work is an exquisite realistic expression.
JooYoung Choi
Lily van der Stokker Jack Early
Jack Early is a North Carolina born artist that specialises in fine art but done in a unique manner. The concepts, approach and ideas behind his art cause his work to be described as contemporary. His childhood in the south are very paramount to the exploration of identity, sexuality, and masculinity in his work. Colours are a key component of his work much like Choi and Van der Stokker. His pop art influences illuminate the narrative of his journey from boyhood to manhood. His biograpghy of his progress through life is documented in his art and details the imagery of a southern homosexual boy transitioning to a star artist in New York City. Evidence of this is in his installation entitled ‘Jack Early's Life Story in Just Under 20 Minutes’. Audio is a tool used in this artistic representation as the Early speaks to the audience through a bright yellow custom pressed vinyl record player, narrating the main events of his life over an early composition in a ragtime vaudevillian atmosphere, a style of music popularised in the early 1930s by African Americans. Also, a hallmark of the display is the life sized, soft sculptural versions of the artists family. Reminiscent of beanbag chairs, they evoke the familial space in the late 1960s and invite us all to imagine our families tames and made into delicate stuffed creations. This may subliminally be a way of making the viewer comfortable in his environment and inviting them into the presence of the closest people to him and his intimate reality. The backdrop of his early paintings typically mirrors the soldier wallpaper Early added an aspect of masculinity to his room while simultaneously covering his room with gay male couples.
JooYoung Choi Lily van der Stokker
Jack Early
Mark Rothko The city of Houston offers the possibility of experiencing the grand and abstract expressionist work of Mark Rothko. A very well renowned artist around the globe but also had the mind of a troubled soul which was evident in his artistry. A man of Russian decent, born Markus Yakovlevich Rothkowitz he came from a family of intellectuals. For their Mental capacities to blossom and not be lost to the Imperial Russian Army, his father emigrated from Russia to the United States and he later followed in the year of 1913 to reside in Eliss island which at that time was the gateway for 12 million immigrants. As a youth Rothko was a very Politically invested individual. Rothko was passionate about social issues such as workers’ rights and women’s rights to contraception. Following in the blueprint given to him by his family has very intelligent and could speak 4 languages by the age of seventeen. Therefore, it was no surprise that he achieved a scholarship to one of the top institutions in the country. Yale University. This admission did come with setbacks however as his scholarship was not renewed at the end of his freshman year and resorted dropping out at the end of the second year. His surroundings seemed to stifle him as he viewed Yale as a racist and pompous community. The Rothko Chapel in Houston is dedicated to the artistry of Mark Rothko. The ambiance of the building is enhanced by fourteen large scale, dark, expressionist paintings by Mark Rothko. Witnessing the paintings personally, there was a feeling in the air of calmness and a higher powers presence that the huge paintings exude. Three of the walls in the building display the navy blue/ deep purple paintings, 15 by 11 feet in size, in a triptych and the other 5 walls display a single painting. These paintings of emptiness yet powerful presence subliminally are canvases for the viewer to explore themselves spiritually and emotionally.
The dark colours used for these expressionist paintings emanate a feeling of depression and hopelessness. His may be ironic since the gallery doubles as a place for religious gatherings which usually have connotations to hope and cheerfulness. The paintings on the other hand could be a way of setting the tone of peace and quiet which correlates to the ambiance of the Rothko Chapel. They are very Simplistic and reticent. So simplistic that some of the Visitors to the Chapel Do not recognise Them as paintings and proceed to ask where the paintings are. Rothko however did produce luminous paintings that had more activity and a bolder line of communication between the painting and the audience. These were the paintings that granted him his notoriety such as ‘White Center (Yellow, Pink and Lavender on Rose)’ and ‘Orange, Red, Yellow’. These Vibrant paintings in a similar style have a very different language to the Paintings in the chapel. They have been described as a sort of “window to beyond” causing you to look past what is in front of you and delve deeper past eyecatching colours which do not permeate past the canvas.
Rotho’s work at the chapel and in other Houston galleries are a sample of his signature style. These paintings were a revelation of his thoughts, feelings, and his brilliance in being able to make seemingly elementary paintings be captivating and garner enquiries by however is viewing the painting. These oil paintings in a vertical formatting and extensive scale were used to overwhelm the viewer and emerge them in the disturbance, agitation, or empathy that he felt. From afar the paintings look to have one solid tone across a canvas, but with a closer and more focused eye it is evident that the paintings are composed of many uneven washes of pigment that create aberrations in each that give them their individuality. These emotions later overwhelmed him with physical issues aside from the metal battle he faced. This affected his ability to paint in such a large scale and in February of 1970 he was found dead in his kitchen, lifeless on the floor in front of the sink draped in blood coming from his sliced arms, inflicted by a razor. An overdose on anti-depressants were also found to be a catalyst for his suicide.
Cy Twombly
Edwin Parker “Cy” Twombly Jr’s work is also a staple in the museum district of Houston. He was an artist that adopted many forms of creativity into the work he produced. Work such as sculptures, painting, and photography. Twombly was a Lexington, Virginia and started his training in artistry at the age of 12. As an avid reader and traveller at a young age, Twombly was inspired by ancient Mediterranean history, Greek and roman mythology, poetry, and classical literature, all of which find a form of representation on his canvases. He exuberates The flow and melodies of classical music with the strokes of his paint brush and writes poetry on his canvas to further articulate his emotion through his art. The concept of poetry and Abstract expressionism being expressed on the same podium, being the canvas. The grandeur to his paintings created a cosmos of metaphor and affectional language. He eventually grew into an artist that demanded attention from commissioners, and art lovers alike. His notoriety began in the early 1950s as he emerged from the New York art world. In a different mechanism to Rothko he also spear headed the Abstract expressionist movement and evoked emotion through the use of colours and him literally writing on his paintings.
The works on view in the Cy Twombly gallery, dating from 1953 to 2004 comprise a veritable retrospective of the artist’s career, including the larges canvas that greets visitors at the entrance which was completed by Twombly in the gallery, sculptural works, and other drawings. The artist curated these 33 paintings and 11 sculptures himself, therefore we are provided the story as told by the artist himself as you pass through the gallery. Cy Twombly’s artistic offerings can be interpreted as one vast engagement with cultural memory. His paintings, drawings and sculptures on mythological subjects come from a significant part of his education from that memory. Aside from his emotive influence through his art, his special medium is writing. Starting out from purely graphic marks, hatching and loops. These markings eventually meta-morphed into script itself.
Photography by @esco_boomin
Architecture Houston is a city that demands attention across the globe, regarding the Art that the city houses and most definitely in the architecture for those galleries the art is displayed. Legendary architects, old and new, have been fortunate enough to have buildings commissioned in H-Town. Architects such as Mies van der Rohe, Philip Johnson and Renzo Piano. Houston and art have a rich relationship, this is likewise with architecture in the famous city. The Three galleries located in the area code 77006 will be the exemplars of this link between Houston, art, and architecture.
Menil Collection 77006
The Menil Collection The Menil collection is a simplistic and flexible building designed by Italian Architect and engineer Renzo Piano. Renzo Piano boasts the buildings such as the Pompidou in Paris and The Shard in London on his architectural resume. Needless to say, he is a very intricate technician and is very focused on the functionality of his buildings. The Menil was opened to the public in 1987. Commissioned by John and Dominique de Menil. Accounting for over 17000 pieces of art from artist such as Henri Matisse, Basquiat, Robert Rauschenberg and Pablo Picasso. You would imagine that a building that houses the work of the greatest artists of the modern era would have an element of grandeur and exuberance to it but...no. Renzo piano allows the art to be the headline act and provides back ground vocals and adlibs in terms of lighting and ease of movement to allow visitors a peaceful and impactful journey though the building. The Briefing for the Menil was for the building to have three main themes. First and most importantly, the exhibits should be lit from above by natural daylight. Second, the museum should be in harmony with its environment and domestic setting. Third, only one sixth of the collection would be on display while the remainder would be stored in an environmentally controlled 'Treasure House'. Visitors are greeted by a large lawn on the north side allowing the visitor to examine the special impact the building has on the land below. The native Cypress wood panelling allows a relationship between the building and its location. The concrete louvres also known as ‘beam light trusses’ are arguably the aspect of the building that stands out most.
The highly engineered roof system is designed purposely to allow light to be added to select gallery spaces. Designed with three layers. The weatherproof glass outer layer, a series of white pained ductile iron trusses in the middle layer and air conditioning ducts on the inside. Multiple gallery spaces are solely illuminated by light passing through the white concrete louvres allowing for 80% of sunlight reflected to enter the building. On the exterior, the portico wrapping around the entire building creates a tectonic understanding of the structure, exposing the steel I-beam columns and intricate detail of the custom steel roof assembly. Piano is quoted saying “I try to comprehend the ideological reasons for the project, what lies behind it, what constitutes its social and formal innovation�, explaining his mental process when drafting iconic buildings such as the Menil. This is a building that houses many different experiences with art, due to its controlled use of light and space in addition to its flexibility. The menil gives curators licence to create communication between very different pieces of art.
The Rothko Chapel The Rothko Chapel is a beautiful fusion of architecture, art, and religion. The building has a captivating ambiance of peace and solidarity which ironically were feelings that Rothko rarely came across. The Rothko Chapel is a non-denominational chapel. Holding services for Christian, Muslim, and Jewish religious gatherings amongst others while at the same time being a home for the display of modern art history. The off white walls are decorated with dark, hued paintings by Rothko that add to the reflective atmosphere of the building. The design, much like the Cy Twombly gallery, was heavily influenced by the artist but also commissioned to Philip Johnson, whom did not last long due to his and Rothko’s idealistic clashes. An American architect that influenced modern art in the United states. The chapel has become a place of cultural, religious, and philosophical interaction. The chapel has an irregular form. The octagonal brick building has an interesting skylight, designed to match the one in Rothko’s New York Studio, to create an extra element of a higher power in the artistic and religious building. the open space allows for ease of mobility, therefore transitioning into many forms of religious gatherings. The combination of reflective art with spiritual import was key in this structure. Rothko said upon completing the chapel paintings, “I wanted to paint both the finite and infinite,” which is what he accomplished, in addition to the dimensions of the building which give a perception of greater space than it physically possesses.
The simple brick finish, flat roof and singular story are all in correlation with the vision Rothko had for the building, very different from the excessively modern nuances that Johnson preferred. Instead the pyramid that Johnson proposed to top the building was modified to a sculpture just outside of the building by a pool, symbolising tranquillity and a loose reference to Egyptian temples that housed the Mummies of kings and Queens in pyramids directly opposite. All these buildings have a relationship, whether it be the architect, the influence of the artist on the architecture or how important light is to all three galleries. These buildings are staples for any creative looking to visit Houston. The trinity of modern art celebration have architecture to match their different experiences.
Cy Twombly Gallery In collaboration with the Menil, the Dia foundation and Cy Twombly himself. The abstract expressionist Gallery, opened in 1995, is an example of the institutions zeal for artist recognition and their expectation of high quality presentation that is consistent with all the structures in the 77006 Area. In a similar accent to the Menil main building, the Cy Twombly Gallery is filtered through a louvred roof and ceilings of white canvas sailcloth. Natural light adds to the vibrancy of Cy Twombly’s emotive work in some cases. Also some pieces which expressed more depressing imagery were elegantly lit by artificial light fixtures, laminating the darkness depicted in the paintings. Cy Twombly aimed for opulence with his building which he was accustom to while living in Rome for multiple decades, but also modesty. How the commissioned architect Renzo Piano executed this modesty is through the orientation of the building. The building faces away from the main street towards a great live oak tree. The building has a pre-cast concrete finish with a sombre and modest washed out tone. The Roofing seems to float above the building, made from filtered glass and steel louvres. Piano describes the suave roofing system as “a butterfly alighting on a firm surface”. Light plays an important part above the building but also on the white oak floors with light playing softly on the galleries. Twombly, who was well versed in architecture himself, was intimately involved in the gallery’s creation offering opinions on the arrangement of the galleries, structural materials, and the proportions of the spaces and their openings. He also helped hone the selection of paintings and sculptures to be on view, eventually donating the majority of them to the Menil. These suggestions came with their fair share of disagreements between artist an architect.
@rescue_adv
Events Houston cannot be discussed in this calendar year without reference to the devastating Natural disaster that occurred in the city and all over the state of Texas. In a 4-day time span many areas was flooded in up to 100cm of rain. Eastern Texas received the brunt of the tragedy with a maximum flood level of 164 cm of water. The flood devastated tens of thousands of homes, displacing over 30,000 native Texans. The flood was most aggressive from Saturday the 26th till Monday the 29th of August. Rescue attempts were made to save people stranded in the sea of theirs and their neighbour’s belongings. Helicopters flew over the city of Houston to rescue thousands of people, young or old, Human, or domestic animal. Many people became resourceful in a time of life and death, converting house hold items into rafts to row to safety. Speed boats were never in so much demand. The rain poured relentlessly in the most intense times of the hurricane, many buildings were compromised and unfortunately 82+ people lost their lives at the violent hands of Hurricane Harvey. Entire communities were cut off for days, drinking water was a scarce commodity and hospitals had to be evacuated due to flooding also. People on life support had to be moved from one place to the next, patients had to wait for their medicine to be supplied. The hurricane affected millions of people across Texas and other southern states. Even for people not terribly effected by the flood, it was difficult to do anything but stay indoors. The supermarkets were closed or open for a few hours in the day. Roads were flooded and cars were abandoned in the street. Anyone that knows anything about Houston knows the main form of reliable transportation is by car. Up to a million cars were destroyed as a result of the hurricane. Many cars lots were flooded also. 250, 000 people were left without power and two reservoirs overflowed.
Shelters were overflowing with Hurricane Harvey victims, hotels took in people affected by the flood and local companies housed people that had lost their homes also. And even some shelters themselves began to flood, for example the Port Arthur Civic Centre was flowing with dirty water and unsanitary conditions victims saw all kinds of things such as spiders and tadpoles in the water. An estimate of $180 billion dollars worth of damages were incurred by the state of Texas. Of this total, land value accounts for 26% and 18% was damage done to residential properties. The economic impact of the of the hurricane will be a large one due the huge about of residents in the city of Houston. It has most affect Septembers employment report as people will be out of work trying to get back on their feet.
A local restaurant owner Ed Ziegler estimated his losses of up to 2 million dollars, but his appreciation for keeping his life comes above all else. This shows the spirit and mentality of the people of Houston. Although the hurricane caused so much damage, only second to Katrina in 2005, the people of Houston continue to have the hope and resolve that everything will be fine. Multiple people banded together to provide aid to those in need. There were various relief efforts to ease the pain of the hurricane. The American red cross was a very important organisation in aiding the Houston relief project. At this point they have fed over 2.5 million people and sheltered close to 500,000. Items and supplies for people in need such as cleaning supplies, comfort kits and medicine. They worked alongside government agencies, other non-profit groups and faith based organisations of different denominations. The Hand in Hand telethon was also influential of generating money from people all over the united states for relief efforts. Celebrities such as Jaimie Foxx, Leonardo DiCaprio, and Travis Scott were part of this event, raising over $55million for hurricane relief with $14 million made during the live telethon. NFL star and Defensive End for the Houston Texans JJ Watt also was influential in the relief process for the city he represents, aiming for $10 million in donations, he helped to generate a total of around $37 million.
There have been a traumatic string of hurricanes and natural disasters following hurricane Harvey. Irma, Jose, and Maria, to name a few, are hurricanes that have devastated the city of Florida and the Caribbean islands. This combined with earthquakes in Mexico scaling a 7.1 on the Richter scale have caused humanity to show solidarity in whatever way they can. Social media hashtags continue to change by the city each day due to new terrible occurrences. However, humanity remains resilient and hope is still alive for those affected and observing. May the souls of the dead rest in peace and the relief efforts continue to flourish and put happiness back in the hearts of those that have lost everything.
@rescue_adv
Photography by @mattk4441
Photographer: @c_oguns Model: b__joux
Fashion It’s important to note that denim at that time was not about fashion; but rather for work purposes. It was not until the 1950s that denim became more fashionable than functional. To keep up with demand most denim manufacturers replaced their old shuttle looms for projectile looms, which shot out more denim at lower quality and fake fades. The top countries that currently create premium denim are USA and Japan and for standard denim it is China, Turkey, Pakistan, India, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Mexico.
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The history of denim is unclear, but it’s believed that denim traces its history back to France and “Serge de Nimes,” a ‘serge’ fabric from the town of Nimes. Back in the 1800s, denim garments were constructed using a technique called self-edge a term which has become the modern-day “Selvedge” which was famous for creating clean inseam lines. This technique prevents the fabric from unwinding and allows looms to make tighter and heavier fabrics.
So now for the exciting part, is what is trend for this Autumn/ Winter 17? This Autumn/Winter denim is undergoing a transformation and is travelling back to the 70’s and 90’s. The denim is influenced by the worlds of sport, workwear, DIY culture and beyond. This Fall, you can expect to see a ton of baby blues that feature embroidery, contemporary cuts, fringe details and frayed and uneven hems heading to stores.
DENIM
Cropped boxy jackets have been everywhere from Off-White and A.P.C to Stella McCartney and MSGM. Whilst embroidery adorned the denim at Adam Selman, Libertine and Fyodor Golan. From a previous fashion show Raf Simons presented his debut collection for Calvin Klein paying homage to the USA’s lonely cowboy. Simons presented matching denim buttoned-up shirt jackets and bootleg jeans, complete with steel-toed tan boots. Raf experimented with colour where tomato red was paired with dark sky blue and burgundy. This collection featured amazing double denim that was accented by screen prints of artwork made by Andy Warhol; the range was a collaboration of sorts with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts.
-Teresa Mwangi
Upsized trucker fits continue to gain importance on the street, with new off-theshoulder styling moving the look forward. The look is influenced by Off-White and Vetements who play with spliced seams, drop shoulders and extreme sleeve volume to create new proportions.
Shearling lined denim jack are hugely popular once a The key to wearing them n keeping them boxy and ov rather than fitted.
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Styles diversify from classic straight-leg fit to cropped and flare silhouettes, all of are defined by the use of c seam splicing and asymme shredded hems
In the recent street style photographs on social media you would have noted that the stylish way to wear a jacket now is half buttoned and falling off the shoulders. Rihanna took this styling of her denim on denim Matthew Adams Dolan denim jacket one step further by pairing it with an oversized skirt.
Onesies take on a contemp form with fitted versions o and brace overalls and pin styles.
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The exaggerated proportions of classic flares are modernised through novelty design details at the hem.
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Japanese influences show no sign of slowing for the men’s market, with consumers still investing in contemporary reworks of kimono styles. This item is fast becoming a seasonal must-have.
-Teresa Mwangi
Good American is a denim focused fashion brand designed for a curvier, sexier and stronger shape. The brand originated from a conversation between Khloe Kardashian and Emma Grede about what it means to be a woman today. They both believe everybody deserves to be shown off. Fashion should be made to fit women, not the other way around. The aim of Good American is create flattering and trendy denim that is made to fit and hug the body
The Lala Anthony denim collection is for “all women, all shapes and sizes,” ranging in sizes 0 to 24, at an affordable price, and features fashion-forward silhouettes details like zippers, asymmetrical hems, rolled cuffs, and distressed fabrics. Lala’s focus was to create great quailty that is durable to last a longer. She is known for her signature off-duty uniform which includes classic blue high-rise jeans, a figure-hugging bodysuit and heels.
Alexis Colby self-taught designer started her own lable Bit Of denim with her grandmother’s help. The majority of Colby’s custom reconstructed pieces use various vintage jeans she has found over the years with her grandmother at Goodwill, The Salvation Army, and Value World in her hometown of Detroit.
Anthony Hendrickson new label M65 is a return of his youth. Hendrickson wants his brand to take people back to his childhood and where his love for denim began.
Model/Stylist: @Vanessa_smiless
Winter Essencials As the winter season is approaching it getting colder so this means layering with different clothing. To put you at ease and make your shopping easier this winter we have put together a list of essentials things that will see you through this winter. Think warm pieces, classic silhouettes in staple autumnal colours; black, grey and brown maroon.
To make your shopping easier this winter we have put together a list of essentials things that will see you through this winter. Think warm pieces, classic silhouettes in staple autumnal colours; black, grey and brown maroon.
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Timeless Autumn / Winter Trends Coats / Jackets: When looking at British weather in winter, it’s always wise to invest in a couple of decent warm, rainproof jackets.
Hats / Scarves: Another, albeit obvious, winter staple among men is the humble hat and scarf. It’s no secret that these warming accessories aren’t going out of fashion anytime soon so we needn’t justify their staying power to you.
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Dark Jeans: The perfect winter wearers for your bottom half, jeans are an enduring staple among the man’s winter wardrobe that show no chance of retiring from men’s fashion any time in the near future.
-Teresa Mwangi
Photograpy by @mat_g
OTC photoshoot, London UK Photograpy by @dkulakovphoto
Only The Certified Only The Certified is an independent brand founded by Nirbhay Bist. This brand aims to satisfy the innate need for exclusivity through the name itself. This simplistic design is something that speaks to the mentality of Nirbhay’s vision for the brand. His view into the fashion market and his understanding for what consumers want is what influenced the creation and design of his brand. Nirbhay has big dreams for his brand and is a clever individual with a focused mentality and great understanding on how to galvanise his popularity into a product that individuals from where he is from can relate to. The youthful visionary is creating a quality brand that he hopes to develop from fashion into a lifestyle brand. We caught up with him to better understand the Young man behind the OTC operation.
Nirbhay Bist Photograpy by @dkulakovphoto
Interview NWM: Hi Nirbhay, how are you? Nirbhay: I’m good thanks, happy to be here. NWM: Great, likewise. First, we’re going to start with personal questions. Get to know you better Alright? let’s go NWM: where are you from? Origin wise, I’m from India but I’ve lived in East London almost my whole life NWM: Who would you say is the most inspirational person to you in your personal life? In my personal life I think it has to be my dad because of what he has achieved and where he came from. He’s done a lot for me. NWM: Do you feel like your origin influences your style? It could a little, but not much. I left India at a very young age. As far as who I am as a person, it definitely has. NWM: What most influences your personal style? It’s hard to explain but like, I try to mix it up. I take concepts from a silhouette and add it to something else. NWM: Great, so being a little different is a big influence? Yes, exactly NWM: How do you react when you see people are interested In what you’re doing? I like to encourage it. If you wanna do something I’m doing then you can jump on it, its fine. I’m happy with it. When they support me I’m happy to support them too. NWM: Do you feel like anything distracts you from the goals your trying to achieve with this? Nothing really distracts me. The only thing That can distract me is the money [laughs]
NWM: What do you do on a day to day basis? Aw, I play sports, I’m still in education. That’s about it. On the brand side I sell the clothing personally and run it on social media NWM: How difficult is it to balance your activities with running a business? Really the mandem have really supported me on this, they’ve taken it in and they support me day in and day out. I have family helping me out also. The business has been so hard, if I didn’t have these people around me I’d be struggling. From promoting it to coming with me to in hand sales. I’d like to say a BIG thank you to them.
NWM: How old are you? 15.
Model : Austin Julian Photograpy by @dkulakovphoto
NWM: Your support system seems to be strong, with your friends pushing you to where you want to be. Would you say they have a similar mentality to you in terms of being a business man and being creative? I hear that, but I wouldn’t say they have the same mentality as me because obviously not everybody wants to be a business man. I want to be a business tycoon, I want to own a lot of big businesses and I felt creating my own brand was a great start. I like looking good. I like fashion so I thought I’d start there. I wouldn’t say the people that support me have the same mentality as me, I’d just say they have great hearts and want to see me win. NWM: What is fashion to you? Fashion to me is looking presentable but not necessarily for other people. When you look at yourself and you know you look nice. I like that. If someone doesn’t like what I’m wearing then that’s fine because it’s on my body. NWM: Do you feel like you’re always trying to remind people of your vision and what your trying to achieve? Sometimes I do have to say to my friends like, Guys let’s do this. Let’s get it going again and again but sometimes my friends hit me up like “Yo Nirbhay”, let’s do something new, let’s do these types of things that people like. They give me advice on how to promote the brand and I’m willing to take advice from them. NWM: Do you take advice from the consumers too? Yes, because they are the people that are gonna buy into the brand in the end. NWM: I’m sure you would be happy with a few celebrity customers, right? For sure because when someone is wearing it, it’s a lot more likely that other people will want it, especially if they are famous. Social media has helped me out a lot with that. NWM: Do you have a purpose for designing aside from the business aspect of it? The purpose for me designing is because I see brands, big brands like Versace etc. See how simple and popping they are? And I feel like I can do something simple with the design and it’ll have a chance of being popular. I wanted to create something that looks dope. NWM: So, keeping it simplistic and to the point to benefit the brand? Yeahh.
“I feel like I can do something simple with the design... I wanted to create something that looks dope.” NWM: What other creative things are you into aside from fashion? I like film production. That’s a big part [of me], I like acting myself and making films that mean something is dope. When a movie teaches you a lesson while you watch it. That’s dope. I like that. [the] creativity is crazy. NWM: What’s the best movie this year to you? Errr I haven’t watched too many movies this year honestly [laughs] NWM: Or TV shows whichever one. Power has been quite good. I like the way [that] in power, it shows that even to be a big drug dealer you have to be clever. It shows the good and bad sides. I like the way it tells that story and no matter how much you want people to see you as good, you’re still a bad guy. NWM: Is there any one person you look to in the fashion industry that influences you? I would say Giovanni Versace. His work was crazy, it’s become a huge company and people love to wear it but the logo itself is so simple. I like the simplicity. He also worked within films and he would dress the people on set. I liked how he would understand and dress the characters.
NWM: What film character would you like to dress? Someone that tells a story. Someone like Jack Sparrow, someone that tells a story with what they wear. NWM: The name of the brand is Only The Certified, what does that mean to you? Its exclusive, only certain people are getting it. It’s for open minded people. Important people. You have to be special NWM: I love the way your brand name is inclusive but exclusive at the same time. The clothes are at an affordable price range but when you put it on you feel like you are part of an exclusive group Yeah. Your part of the team. When people wear it, I tell them to send me a picture and I put it on my snapchat. Their part of something. NWM: Can you please talk to us about the photoshoot you did with New Wave photographer Daniel Kulakov? Well obviously, you [Derrick Odafi] and him [Daniel Kulakov] reached out and it all happened really fast. I wasn’t getting good offers like this before new wave hit me up I hit up a couple friends and a model for the shoot... NWM: Shout them out Big shout out to Austin. Everyone that came on the day, Babs, Jed, Conner, Michaiah, big shout out to Dorothy as well what all you guys did was crazy. The pictures came out so mad! What Daniel Did was dope. He put life into the photographs and the brand. I had people from Manchester hitting me up about the pictures.it was BIG. NWM: Did Daniel give you an idea of what he wanted? At the location he would tell me, stand like this, stand like that. Also, because I’m a model myself I would tell the others what I wanted too. He would do special things like the lighting and the background. Crazy work. NWM: Is there anything our brand can do to help you in the future? We definitely will work in the future and if you guys need anything I’m down. With new products, if you guys have design ideas then we can collaborate on that.
NWM: Awesome, we will be more than willing to help. So, how do you feel that fashion photography helps to make people want your clothes? When you see an average image, you see it and that’s it. Bust when you see pictures like Daniels work you know its dope and it makes people wanna look deeper into the picture. They say “you know what? I wanna wear that” NWM: That’s dope, we have an article on denim on our magazine. How often do you wear denim? I’m looking to purchase more denim. Jackets and stuff like that. I find it so good
“Big shout out to Austin. Everyone that came on the day, Babs, Jed, Conner, Michaiah, big shout out to Dorotea as well what all you guys did was crazy.”
NWM: Do you like a particular style of denim? I like the light wash blue denim. I like wearing them with my Timbs. NWM: Winters coming up, give me your denim style for the winter. Alright, so i’ll have the Timbs out. I’ll have the light wash jeans… NWM: Baggy? Slim? Nah i’ll have err…Not slim, just a little bigger than that. I’ll go for the New York Look. NWM: Our company is an all-encompassing brand with all forms of design and creativity. What form of creativity do you think is most like fashion? I would say Graphic design. Fashion houses like Gucci and Louis Vuitton have great graphics on their products. When you do something and someone else is willing to collaborate, It’s crazy how much work can be done. NWM: Do you want to combine Fashion with art to make your brand last as long as possible? Yeah, I want it to be special. I want my clothes to be for special occasions. That’s why with my new stock I’m tryna do something exclusive. Something that people will only wear to the best of the best parties and places NWM: In the future do you want to get involved with cutting and designing material? Yes, I do, even with the new stock I’ve changed some of the material to be a little different. Maybe in the future I can design the shirts with zippers on the side etc. I don’t want it to be just normal. NWM: How did the name ‘Only The Certified’ come about? It started when I was coming back from a rugby match with my friends. We were on the bus and my friend said something [Only the Certified] and something sparked in my mind. I put it on our group chat. My friend was writing bars and he said it in the song. The song was banging. We made a cover for the song and he put only the certified on it and it was lit from there. NWM: What other products are coming? I’m looking to do tracksuits. I’m tryna mess with some velvet materials. I’m trying to do hats right now. I told my supplier I want hats. NWM: So, the readers should look forward to OTC hats, soon right? Yes, for sure
Model : Dorothy Godwin Photographs by @dkulakovphoto
Model : Jed Vielaa
NWM: Thank You for the Great interview Nirbhay, any last words? I would just like to say, thanks for this interview and big up the new wave movement you guys are doing a really positive movement. I would like to say thanks for everything in the past few week and hopefully everything keeps going up and I’m down for anything planned in the future, more success to come.
“I want it to be special. I want my clothes to be for special occasions. That’s why with my new stock I’m tryna do something exclusive.” -Charles Ogunmilade & Derrick Odafi
Model :Michaiah Prigg
Photography by @nxt.cheong
Poetry
A Clockwork Personality Knowing yourself can be a profound mystery Like trying to pinpoint your destiny But do not worry for time will solve your query Just swing to the clock with a rhythm cheery Chorus Ceaselessly ticks the hand of the clock The key to opening identities lock What secrets lie beneath the rock? What do the vaults of time have in stock?
At 12 o'clock time stands dominant Over-looking 6 o'clock like a master to a servant A pioneer by the minute, hour and day The world dances to its sway
Ceaselessly ticks the hand of the clock... At 1 o'clock dominance lingers Introducing the great thinkers Non-social by nature The world grows in wisdom's nurture
Ceaselessly ticks the hand of the clock...
At 2 o'clock is a test Delivering candidates to educations mountain crest The compulsion to arrange cases in a folder Helps to keep the world in order
Ceaselessly ticks the hand of the clock... At 3 o'clock sets in a maze of complexity Demanding runners of a technical capacity Primarily responsible for maintaining a perfect frequency The world rotates on the axis of advancement ceaselessly Ceaselessly ticks the hand of the clock... At 4 o'clock is a public demonstration Aiming for worldly liberation The gifted surfers of the waves of idealism Plunge into a world of romanticism
Ceaselessly ticks the hand of the clock...
At 5 o'clock an alarm rings Pulsing into ears tuned to the rhythm it brings The skilled full-time jugglers at multitasking Ensure worldly patterns run without slacking
Ceaselessly ticks the hand of the clock...
At 6 o'clock halves are united Representing a time to be delighted The heroes of a patient disposition Place the world in a confident position Ceaselessly ticks the hand of the clock... At 7 o'clock is a speech at the office Inspiring all with visions of a golden promise The facilitators of the evolutionary process Promote pieces in the globe of economic chess Ceaselessly ticks the hand of the clock The key to opening identities lock What secrets lie beneath the rock? What do the vaults of time have in stock? At 8 o'clock is a show on cable Bringing joy and laughter to hearts unstable The spreaders of humour's light Help to keep the world bright Ceaselessly ticks the hand of the clock... At 9 o'clock the circus is in town Turning frowns upside-down The promoters of products from another dimension Magically grab the world's short-spanned attention
Ceaselessly ticks the hand of the clock...
At 10 o'clock when blood escapes Racing against time are the heroes without capes These persistent preservers of life Cushion the world from death's raining scythe Ceaselessly ticks the hand of the clock... At 11 o'clock there is a riot downtown Capable of leading to a systemic meltdown But the adversaries of disorder and evil Arrest the world from lapsing into the primaeval At the end of each day more is revealed As time transports us deeper into our true selves Dreams reveal to us reality's treasures concealed If we listen to the whispers coming from the burning shelves While hints linger and the clocks tick ceaselessly Humanities controlling hand turns as souls journey endlessly Searching for the greener pastures passed down agelessly So their ponderous hearts too can one day tick weightlessly
Photography by @c_oguns
Photography by @c_oguns
Music Smooky MarGielaa
In the Rap Game there always seems to be a rising star. Smooky MarGielaa is definitely a young artist with a great amount of potential. MarGielaa conceived his rap name through the social platform Facebook in combination with a popular song he recorded. The story goes, his friends would use aliases on Facebook and one of them was called ‘Smoke’. When the time came for him to get on the popular social media site he played off the name of his friend, calling himself ‘Smook’ which later evolved into ‘Smooky’. The name MarGielaa, derived from the French luxury fashion house Maison Martin Margiela, came after he released a song titled after the fashion house and was therefore recognised as ‘Smooky MarGielaa’ The 15-year-old is a Bronx, NY native. Similar to Iconic artists such as Krs-One and Big Pun to newer acts such as A Boogie and Don Q. His buzz in the industry is growing by the day after connecting with his mentor Asap Rocky and having 5 vocal placements on the Highly Anticipated Cozy Tapes II album by the ASAP MOB collective.
New Wave Presents
Next Up Quite an achievement for such a young artist but understandable when you hear the confidence of his melodic tones over his instrumentals and playful flow that illuminates his creativity. Looking back to his upbringing you do not have to go far to realise where his influences hail from. Out of 169th and Morris Ave, his father was a West African singer by the name of Abdoulaye Diabate. MarGielaa also played the balaphone growing up, a West African instrument similar to the xylophone. With this musical background, the transition from playing an instrument to rapping came two years ago when he recorded himself on his phone using the app garage band. His musical influences include Micheal Jackson, Chief Keef and The Migos. Aside from using the app Margielaa was reluctant to get into a studio because he was worried as to what his parents would say. His Friend and Co-rapper ‘Dru Drippy’ convinced him to tell his parents his studio sessions were an afterschool program. Dru Drippy first heard his friend songs on Garage band and saw the potential, quoted saying he started making stuff on the phone, [I was like] my son is dead nice! I knew what it could turn into, that’s when I introduced him to my manager.” From then on, his buzz began to grow organically and he was scheduled to perform at a show with ASAP MOB member A$AP Twelvyy. A show where he was recognised by Rocky and therefore taken under his wing as a protégé. “I see A$AP Rocky, Playboi Carti, so I’m like Yo!” recollecting the moment he saw an opportunity at his first official show. He recollects telling rocky to watch him perform after Twelvyy and Rocky honoured the request. “I started performing, started bugging, milly rocking, killing it.” And Rocky’s response to what he saw was “you’re gonna go far bro, we gotta talk”
The Inspiration for his music is things that he has experienced. Although he is very young he understands struggle and the surroundings he grew up in. “I came from the gutter, I came from people robbing other people. We grind for it”. These are themes touched on in songs such as ‘Stay 100’, ‘Smooky Story’ and ‘Out My Face’. His Goal in the is to go as far as he can because he believes the sky is the limit, being so young he has plenty of time to grow and develop his sound. His short-term goals include going tour by the end of the year, which he most likely will with the Cozy boys tour schedule. Oh, and he wants to have a lambo too, touting himself as the next rap superstar. His solo mixtape Margielaa Mad Man [MMM], executively produced by Cash Money AP who has produced for artists such as Desiigner, Lil Bibby and Rich The Kid, is going to broaden his fan base and help continue his growth.
DVSN
The Obscure R&B duo Dvsn, signed to Drakes’ record label OVO Sound (October’s very own) by way of Warner bros, they add to extensive list of formidable music coming from Canada. The view from the 6 is very impressive at this point! The duos name Dvsn is pronounced ‘di-vision’ and the members include; Daniel Daley and Nineteen85, both Scarborough, Ontario, Canada natives. Whilst many artists undergo nerve-racking interviews, Dvsn tend to pursue a low-key approach which their fan base is drawn towards, the duo have a profound ability to let the music speak for itself. Fans can’t deny the quality of music produced by this duo. However, for a while, many questions surrounded the group, questions such as who are Dvsn? Fans and reviewers searched for answers to find information such as; Daley’s Myspace page, social media posts from Nineteen85 and Daley referencing the division sign, representing the duo’s name. Daley is the vocalist behind the music and Nineteen85 the sonic architect. Nineteen85 (birth name is Anthony Paul Jefferies) is known for his work with Drake producing successful singles like; “One Dance”, “Hotline Bling” and “Hold On, We’re Going Home”. Similarly, Daniel Daley has been hovering in the music industry for a while, previously curating R&B & pop music around 2010 in Ontario, Canada. Daley and Nineteen85 initially worked together when recording music in 2010, alongside building a friendship throughout the years. Dvsn eventually gained recognition after releasing singles “Too Deep”, “Hallucinations”, “With Me” and “The Line” in 2015 leading up to the release of their first debut studio album “Sept. 5th” early 2016. The album offers listeners that smooth, soulful and passionate feel that R&B songs have lost along with a mix of something new. Dvsn was later featured on Drake’s album “Views” on the song “Faithful” also featuring the late great Pimp C. The duo supported Drake and Future on the “Summer Sixteen Tour” in 2016 and then supported Drake during 2017 on the “Boy Meets World Tour”. The continuous work with artists through music features and touring has given this duo exposure, which is the perfect build-up for their upcoming sophomore album.
Dvsn also featured on Majid Jordan’s latest single “My Imagination” from their upcoming album “The Space Between”. The collaboration of both OVO duos gave us smooth vocals on a hypnotic beat, many listeners describe this collaboration as “raw” and Underrated Dvsn released their 13-track sophomore album titled “Morning After” with leading songs “Think about me”, “Mood”, “Don’t Choose” and “P.O.V.”, the latter sampling Maxwell song “Fortunate” (written and produced by R Kelly). The new release is full of harmonies, whispery tones, and falsettos, framing every song as a soulful masterpiece. Dvsn gives us traditional sensual R&B, as Daley sings about women, love, heartbreak, and phases within relationships. The production drowns in the essence of old school R&B, yet at the same time keeping relevancy with the strategic and manipulative way instrumentation has been used to accommodate and enhance the vocals. The production includes catchy drum loops, hypnotic percussions, harmonious pianos, and electric guitars. Dvsn have the blessing of R&B musical icons such as Maxwell, when speaking of the new Dvsn album “Morning After”, exclaiming “Aren’t we all fortunate to have R&B like this”. Go and check out “Morning After”
Daniella Francis
Jorja Smith Jorja Smith is the 20-year old British singer/songwriter from Walsall, West Midlands, whose smooth, soulful and jazzy vocals have caught the attention of the music scene. In 2015, Smith released her debut single “Blue Lights” sampling Dizzie Rascal’s “Sirens”. Listeners were captivated by her mesmerising vocals and her lyrical ability – giving off an Amy Winehouselike vibe. However, it was the raw and organic nature of her 2016 single “Where Did I Go?” that really captured our attention. The originality of her lyrics coupled with the nature of her homemade music video presents a young woman whose creativity is well beyond her years. Earlier this year, Smith released “Beautiful Little Fools” - the Great Gatsby inspired track written when she was just 16. Here, Smith translates the difficulties faced by women regarding beauty standards in the media, into a relatable and hypnotic record. Smith attracted even more attention due to her two features on Drake’s “More Life” – “Jorja Interlude” and “Get It Together”. The Canadian rapper came out to support her at her first ever show in Toronto, describing her as “One of the most incredible voices, incredible talents and incredible people that I’ve ever met.” This August Smith also teamed up with Preditah – Skepta’s DJ – to produce the UK garage inspired track, “On My Mind”. The song’s old school vibe and upbeat tempo, paired with Smith’s smooth vocals makes you want to bob your head and sing along to its catchy melody. The song, displaying Smith’s versatility, is sure to rise through the charts. 2017 has definitely been a busy year for Smith, especially since she was awarded 4th place in the BBC’s Sound of 2017. Her music has also made its way onto HBO’s hit show Insecure, with Smith’s “Fine Line” being on Season 2’s official soundtrack.
Overall Jorja Smith’s style represents an authentic form of neo-soul music. The raw, original and mesmerising nature of Smith’s music undeniably demonstrates how truly talented she is. Currently, Smith is on tour in the USA, both on her own and as an opening act for Bruno Mars and it will be great to see what her heavily anticipated debut album will bring. -Brigitta Ben Eghan
Album Reviews Particularly in the song ‘Kill Jay Z’. He literally exclaims ’Fuck Jay Z’, to inform the listener that he is stripping away the braggadocio and is Presenting himself as a common man, Shawn Corey Carter. He goes on to recollect mistakes he has made in his life. Reminding himself that he is not above reproach and has to answer to his wrong doings. Criticizing himself for his knowledge but lack of action and sites his daughter as a reason to do better. Shawn Carter reviling his inner demons over stripped down No I.D production. Simple drum pattern and low frequency strings allow the ‘Don't Let It Show’ sample by The Alan Parsons Project carry the melody of the song. A brilliant way to delve into subsequent deep topics immediately. 4:44 is the 13th-solo album by the iconic Hip hop artist Shawn ‘Jay Z’ Carter. This album has been in high demand since his last offering in 2013, ‘Magna Carter Holy Grail’. MCHG was a lavish and highly polished album that boasted production from legends such as Pharrell, Swizz Beatz and Timberland. In the same breath Magna Carter had the muddy 808 touches of producers Wondergurl and the short, distorted, and abrasive production of Mike Will Made it.
Kill Jay Z leads into a similarly Grand and down reaching topic. Racial inequality and the pathways in society to overcome it. Record begins with a Four Women sample, produced by No I.D., setting the tone of the sombre topic. The Title of the song is a striking way of using O.J Simpson, A denounced figure in terms of race relations in America.
In Four years many things have changed in the world and in the Life of Jay Z. Public pitfalls and victories involving his family. New business ventures. An elaborate and artistic detailing of his Marital transgressions by his superstar wife Beyoncé Knowles. In anticipation of this album Jay Z’s audience was unsure he would address personal and social issues due to his larger than life persona and his previous audio collection, MCHG.
Story of OJ refers to the message that no matter what you look like or your social status is, provided you are black you will be labelled as such and nothing else. How this relates to OJ Simpson is though his failure to realise this sad truth. Initially quoting him by saying “I’m not black, I’m O.J.” then Jay Z follows that by an awkward and condescending “…Okay” to point out his disdain for such a blind statement.
The audience may have been pleasantly surprised as Jay Z offers his most personal album and arguably his most educative and seamless. Jay Z addresses issues such as racial inequality, racial stigma, and inability to progress. He delves into his persona of Jay Z as a façade and a separation from his everyday life, pain, and suffering.
Jay Z in this song goes on to explain to the audience about methods of acquiring wealth when you have capital. Guiding people through the mistakes he has made and how we should learn from it. Utilising a flow which is more conversational than perfectly timed, allowing his lyrics to permeate even more. He later calls out the rappers of the current age and their infatuation with Flexing on the internet stating “You on the ‘gram holding money to your ear/ there’s a disconnect we don’t call that money over here”.
An interesting play on word using the idea of the money as a phone to show his misunderstanding of the trend and in turn flexing himself by insinuating the money rappers are so quick to show off are nothing to be excited about in his world. There are various captivating moments on 4:44. Jay Z on the song encourages the audience and urges them to be cheerful in the face of adversity. A continuation of his narrative in story of OJ promotes entrepreneurship and he uses clever word play to refer to current events, flowing effortlessly over the sample with a more up-tempo Drum pattern. He scoffs at his opposition.
'Caught their eye' has a simplistic hook and outro from Frank ocean while Jay Z contributes to the melodic value of the song by adding a drowsy bridge. This song reinforces the topic of ownership and not being bound by people that do not contribute to the culture but want to profit from it. He gives incite on the topic of the late great Prince and his battles with acquiring Prince’s masters even though he was offered such by the man himself. 4:44 is a beautifully emotive song with the sample providing the back bone to the song and Jay Z paints vividly with the brush of his lyricism. Getting introspective about his marital issues and being inches from losing everything. Including respect from his children, which he values to the point of not knowing what he would do if he gave that away.
This song came to Jay Z in a cold sweat and set the tone for the other songs on this project. That is why it is a standout aside from being promoted by the media as a 'lemonade response' Family feud is a triumphant record exclaiming how far he has come and where he is yet to be claiming 'we gon' reach a billi first'...Diddy might have a problem with that. From the previous Record exposing his vulnerability. This song is an embodiment of reconciliation and reflection. Dropping game on the listener and challenging his competition stating ' y'all think small I think biggie' clever word play in reference to the late great biggie smalls. The choir sample rested adds to the ambiance of the song and is a sonic visualisation of Jay Z amending his H.O.V persona to put shown Carter back behind the curtains. This leads into BAM. A celebratory record supported by the vocals of Damian Jr gong Marley putting his presence upon a reggae classic, ‘Tenement yard’ by Jacob Miller. Jay Z is back in full effect and ready to 'Bobby shmurda anybody you heard-a'. Jay Z immediately emerges to the forefront by introducing his alter ego screaming ‘Fuck all that Shawn carter Shit nigga, Hov!’ letting the audience know what we know and love him for was not going to be absent. He continues to Lyrically stunt on past friends and current doubters of his accomplishments. Jay Z takes aim at the current state of rap with multiple rappers overstating their involvement in narcotics while on the other hand standing on the shoulders of his business partners and long-time friends saying ‘Emory passed you niggas and he did a bid’. Emory did 12 years in a New York state penitentiary but is now an ambassador for puma and is the Roc Nation creative director. ‘Ty Ty Jumped over niggas and he like 5’6’’. Ty Ty is Jay Z’s right hand man and a co-founder of Roc Nation. Jay Z also delivers arguably the most seamless and impressive double entendre of the year with his line ‘Make niggas weave, niggas is out here fake/Laced front to the back, don’t front/ yall gon’ make me wig, I’ma give y’all what you want’. Moonlight is an instrumental flip of the Fugee classic, ‘Fugee La’. The brilliant concept of this song is that it is a commentary on society as jay Z states ‘Y’all stuck in la la land, even when we win we gon’ lose’. In reference to the Oscar award situation where the Movie La la Land was verbally awarded the trophy when a mainly African American movie Moonlight was the designated winner.
This is a greater issue in America but Jay Z efficiently explains the issue in a vacuum. Jay Z proceeds to scold rappers for continuing to sign record deals after all the shady things that have happened to artists at the hands of record labels. He dismisses artists of the new age due to their similarities and posing. Showing he is far from that mentality by stating. ‘I don’t post no threat on the internet, I just pose a threat, blame Lenny S for that’. Lenny S is the Senior Vice President at Roc Nation. Marcy me is an ode to his beginnings as a young man and his ability to dream with the happenings of everyday life around him. He intro’s the record with an interpolation of his fellow Brooklynite, The Notorious B.I.G saying, ‘Live from BedfordStuyvesant, the livest one/ Representing B.K to the fullest’. In this record while jay z paints the picture of his humble beginnings he urges the listener to dream big and quoting Shakespeare in the process, Act 3, scene 4 of Hamlet. Jay Z owes everything to where he comes from proclaiming ‘Streets is my artery, The vein of my existence’. This metaphor illustrates how vital Marcy Projects is to his life. He also takes time to expel what Brooklyn is today due to gentrification. He clarifies he is referring to ‘Old Brooklyn, not This new shit’. He also shouts our two people from Brooklyn that inspired him. Big daddy Kane and Biggie smalls. Lil Uzi vert even gets a shout out on this record somehow.
Legacy is a blueprint for what Jay Z wants to leave behind for his children but also reflecting on things that he has seen and how that can make him better. He states the universe has ways to take his hurt and help him find more of himself. He details his struggle with religion because of the traumatic things that have happened in his family and how that may have tainted the legacy of his lineage. He looks at that terrible trauma as setting his family name back and he was only able to get the score back to zero. The production laced with a sample of ‘Someday We’ll All Be Free’ by Donnie Hathaway allows the credits to roll gracefully for the end of the project. 4:44 is an album that does not waste time getting to the meat of the issues that need to be addressed, it is Jay Z’s most personable album and his most concise. Sone negatives to this album may be that although his lyrical ability is upheld to an immaculate standard he may not have experimented with flows and cadences that we know he is capable of. Maybe that was not his fault and that critique falls on the lap of No I.D. the executive producer. And even though the album was socially conscious, a bolder statement against political and social issues could have been made, but on the other hand focusing on the oppressor is the obvious thing to do but is it always the most beneficial? That is up to personal digression. Overall this Album receives a 4.7 out of 5. Some tracks could have been slightly more captivating than they were but overall a masterful piece of art, sonically and lyrically.
-Derrick Odafi
The track ‘Please Shut Up’ ft. Gucci Mane and Key! is a Record that I really enjoyed especially the verses from the two featured artists. The beat on this track definitely has an ‘old school’ vibe to it and Asap Rocky verse was also terrific Overall, Cozy Tapes Vol 2 is an album that Asap Mob seems like they had fun on, especially where Playboy Carti appears on a few tracks. Cozy Tapes Vol 2 is an album that you may have to listen to more than once to be able to get a good feel of it. It was also very nice to have features, although brief, from Pro Era and Flatbush Zombies in the track ‘What Happens’, giving that Beast Coast sound as well as Chief Keef in ‘Blowin’ Minds’.
I am a fan of the A$AP Mob and their previous projects. Lords Never worry and the First Cozy Tapes Compilation. However, I expected more from them with regards to this album. Cozy Taoes II was only satisfactory for me and wouldn’t be something I recommend as album of the year in my honest opinion.
I would give this album 3.3/5. Reason being, my expectations of the A$AP Mob due to their previous projects. Songs like ‘Choppas on Deck’ and ‘Banging on wax’ where not matched on this album but there were impressive moments such as ‘RAF’ and ‘Feel So Good’ which were singles for the project. The anticipation prior to the album dropping had higher hopes than the standard that was delivered in my honest opinion. New Wave Review: 3.3/5
This does not mean that there aren’t particular tracks on the album that I thoroughly enjoyed such as ‘Perry -Seun Lasile Aye’ ft Playboy Carti. This album has that typical 90’s vibe to it that is brought to you from the A$AP Mob that has been shown in their previous projects. In my honest opinion Cozy Tapes Vol 1 edges this album because of the range of features compared this particular album. Another track I Enjoyed was the playfully blasphemous ‘Walk on Water. Each A$AP Mob member’s flow contributed to making this track really ‘bang’ especially A$AP Twelvy and A$AP Nast who we do not hear from often. ‘Walk on Water’ gives the vibe that the A$AP Mob themselves are untouchable and they can do it what they like when they like, “I just robbed a lil n*gga and took that n*gga b*tch”, is the Playboy Carti hook on this record tells the listener that Asap Mob are invincible. ‘Be your Friend’ ft. Smooky Margielaa was a record that I found interestingly catchy. This Song had a different vibe to it than other tracks on the album. On a less glorious note, ‘Black Card’ was my least favourite track on the album due to the repetitiveness of the lyrics as well as the nature of the beat.
This could be closely related to his wife and winning her over as he refers to her as “first lady”. Eric Bellinger carries out the presidential theme through the lyrics as he refers to his house as the white house and his woman as first lady. “Make you Mine” a more up-tempo sound brings elements of pop with an infused a dancehall feel. How Eric combines both sounds into one yet to be described. Eric still comes through with the harmonies and riffs on ‘Make you mine’ as he continues to sing about winning over “someone” (probably his wife).
Eric Bellinger is going for another term, Eric B For President: Term 2 was released March 10th, blessing listeners yet again with our favourite songs (no pun intended). The well-known singer-songwriter’s projects come as often as the four seasons. Term 2 was short from a surprise! Eric even had the audacity to release another EP ‘Cannabliss’ and an acoustic version of Term 2. What you see is what you get, a singer-songwriter and producer giving you that authentic Rnb soulful sound. What more could we ask for? Eric B for President: Term 1 included Fan Favourites like; “G.O.A.T” and “In My Prime”, this mixtape was far from mediocre. The running presidential theme in both the mixtape and the album Term 2 gives off the sense of accomplishment, happiness and positivity. The catchy hooks, harmonies and melodies form an album worthy of everyone’s time. Eric Bellinger throws in some features including songs with Wale, Tayla Parx and Victoria Monet. Even though Eric Bellinger has written and worked with the likes of; Chris Brown and Justin Bieber he features many coming and underrated artists on his projects. Term 2 gives listeners a fresh, eccentric, and exotic sound. This album is real R&B! The first track on the album “Naked in the White House” Eric welcomes us with harmonies which he keeps this soulful feel throughout the song. The song is based on winning over his lady he mentions ‘I had elevate my stats so that the day I got my chance, you’d f*ck with me’.
Elhae joins Eric on “Know/Vibes” both bringing that soulful R&B sound, the song then transitions smoothly into the song ‘Vibes”. Eric Bellinger then throws some sauce on the album, with the tracks “Too cool/Boujee” and “Treat Yourself”. Eric didn’t overlook catering to the bad, the boujee and those who believe in the act of spending. The song “Too Cool’ transitions into the song ‘Boujee”, in this song Eric samples Aaliyah ‘Rock the boat’ which features the poetic rapper Wale.
Eric Bellinger switches the mood up with “Island”, a reggae vibe which Eric then decorates with metaphorical lyrics using the concept of making out on an “island” (which really is the kitchen table). “Coastin’” and “Malibu Nights” brings similar vibes and waves as the song “Island” uses metaphors to shadow the explicit references of ‘making love’. This album brings extreme positive harmonies, while we lend an ear to Eric’s project we feel the happiness that exudes from him, whether through the harmonies, melodies, lyrics etc. This presidential theme is not something randomly put together, but has a meaning behind it which is expressed throughout the eight tracks on this album. Eric feels accomplished and at the top of his game, Eric has a demeanour about him throughout this album which displays the love for his wife and positive vibes only. New Wave Rating: 4.2/5
-Daniella Francis
Luv Is Rage 2 Is the debut Studio Album from Generation Now Signee Lil Uzi Vert. He has given his fans many projects including Lil Uzi vs The World and Luv is Rage, infusing melodic sounds with Hip Hop. The sequel to Luv Is Rage is presented to the listener with a rock meets hip hop vibe that is reminiscent of some of the music Lil Wayne is known for, i.e. Wayne’s Rock Album Rebirth. Lil Uzi Vert’s alternative sound really makes this album one where you can bump to every song. After listening to the album multiple times, I began to get a good feel of it. Personally, the tracks on this album that stand out are’444+222’, ‘Sauce it Up’, ‘Dark Queen’ and the last track on the album which is already a favourite amongst Lil Uzi Vert fans, ‘XO TOUR LIFE’. This track is synonymous with Lil Uzi Vert especially because of the hook ‘I don’t really care if you cry/Push me to the edge, all my friends are dead’. While listening to this track you can hear the anguish and energy that Lil Uzi Vert puts into the track. My favourite track on the album is ‘Neon Guts ft Pharrell Williams’ which has a melody and beat that combine well to make this track stand out for me, especially when listening to it in efficient earphones/ speakers. The interchange between Pharrell and Lil Uzi Vert on the verses makes the track flow effortlessly.
The track ‘The Way Life Goes’, is another Record that has a nice melody, flow and beat that is very catchy. The hook on this track really draws in the listener I know it hurts sometimes, but you’ll get over it/ You’ll find another life to live.” This track brings the same vibe that ‘XO Tour life brings where Lil Uzi Vert indicates that he is exhausted of particular people in his life, and where you can hear the pain and anguish in his voice when vocalizing. Features on this album compliment Lil Uzi Vert’s melody e.g. ‘Unfazed’ ft. The Weekend and ‘Neon Guts’ ft. Pharrell Williams. I would have preferred that the album had more features, to really make this album have many different forms of energy and hit just that little bit harder. I would have been interested to hear another feature from Playboy Carti as I think those two have good chemistry and feed off each other’s energy very well. Overall, although this album contains a lot of Uptempo music, we must not forget Lil Uzi Vert’s lyrical ability, although it is not shown to a large extent in this project. If you are looking for an alternative hip hop sound then this album definitely brings that. A perfect combo of slow melodic tunes in addition to up tempo beats and with a flow that you can bump to. I would give this album 3.5/5. I am not a frequent listener of Lil Uzi Vert but he altered my opinion of him slightly on the positive side of the spectrum. New Wave Score: 3.5/5 -Seun Lasile
DAMN, the fourth studio album released by the rapper Kendrick Lamar was a highly anticipated project after the critically acclaimed album To Pimp a Butterfly. The album was released earlier this year on April 14th so listeners have had time to properly consume and form opinions about the album. Does the album hold up even after all this months? This short review answers that question and gives a palatable look at key points on the album and my thoughts on them.
The Message “Is it wickedness? Is it weakness?” The opening song asks these questions as Kendrick tells the story of his effort to help an old blind woman only to be shot in return. The song tells the listener to answer the question themselves leaving it open for many different interpretations. Whatever answer the listener feels is right the theme of wickedness or weakness is carried across numerous songs on the album. We can see Kendrick’s wickedness in songs such as ‘HUMBLE’ and ‘DNA’ where the braggadocio and aggressive lyrics and flow is backed by similarly aggressive production. Whereas in songs like ‘FEAR’ and ‘XXX’ his weakness is evident through the sincerity and emotion of his lyrics where the production is more sombre and allows for his lyrics to be a focal point.
Bangers I have to devote a section for this because of one track, DNA. I got, I got, I got, I got so much love for this track! The viscous beat back by Kendrick’s thumping bars puts this as one of his hottest bangers recorded. Behind the head throbbing beat is lyrics that hold some meaning as Kendrick talks about all the things that make up his dna, ‘loyalty’, ‘royalty’, ‘pain’ and ‘joy’. Kendrick is a complex individual and the all the things that make him so is clear by each track on the album. The production on DNA truly shines when the beat switches and becomes even more guttural as Kendrick flows absolutely wickedly until the very last second. Honourable mentions go to the single ‘HUMBLE’ which released before the album accompanied by a spectacular video. This track is just pure hype with lyrics you can sing along to and not look foolish. The use of production on this track is excellent and makes for a hard hitting song adding to the insanely catchy hook. Meh It’s not all roses and sunshine with this album. After repeated listens I find myself skipping through some tracks that I personally feel don’t have the same lasting power as others. Tracks such as ‘LOYALTY’, ‘PRIDE’ and ‘LUST’, for me, don’t have the same ‘Kendrick’ feel that I would have liked. To put it more clearly, the tracks are much slower and less engaging for me than I am willing to listen to. Of course that’s not to diminish the opinion people who enjoy the song, however I feel the album lulls with these tracks.
But why is Kendrick asking us to decide on his wickedness or weakness? The answer lies in the tracks ‘BLOOD’ and ‘DUCKWORTH’ where Kendrick is shot either by the blind woman or at the end of his story in ‘DUCKWORTH’. The life of Kendrick Lamar is the concept of this album, his emotions and feelings are laid out in each track carrying his identity for when his life reaches its end.
Long after the hype and desperation for fresh Kendrick I can truly say that this album, while not his best, is a good album that any Kendrick fan would enjoy. The album just about maintains a short length to be consumed easily whilst having standout songs to bump your head to or mellow out with, however it does have its lulls where some tracks feel more like filler than anything substantial. If you’re new to Kendrick this album is a nice starting point to get into his older work and holds up well next to them. New Wave Score - 4/5
-Chuck Ononkwo
Photography by @wowfilmes
Every era gives us a calibre of great songs, albums and artists. However, we endlessly question whether the new wave of music could ever compete with the old wave. What do you think? Every decade has a unique vibe where you’ll find similar melodies, production and overall a similar feel that the music gives off, however this may vary between different genres. Do you think music is progressing or does it not compare to the old vibes? Lets talk, hit us up on twitter using the hashtag #oldwaveVs#newwave
Photography by @nxt.cheong
Producers & Popularity Music is an art that influences people to have Joy, Sadness, aggression, or excitement. Music is a powerful tool that people use daily. This piece will be uncovering the diverse aspects of music that often heard but drowned out, inquired about but hardly studied by listeners/musicians. The art of production is a vital aspect of creating music. The producer is the foundation of which the inspiration comes in and therefore built upon. Production is the canvas that provides the framework to paint through vocal harmonies or vivid lyrics. Although production is so primary. The producer is a key player that is often overlooked. The point guard providing the assist that artist turn into a slam dunk. They pitch the hits that artists give to listeners. Through this written journey you will take many stops to elements of the business and creative process that affect the producer and their popularity.
Individual Listeners The popularity of a producer can be dependent on the individual listeners of the music they create. The listeners can range from the fans and the casual listeners. The casual listeners tend to be oblivious to those involved in the production of the songs and albums by an artist. These listeners may only encounter songs through routes such as the radio, events and television. Casual listeners are less likely to find out about the production or the process of making a single and/or album, whether that’s by own research or information filtered through social media. The casual listeners in this sense align more with ‘passive listeners’ instead of ‘active listeners’. However, every individual can show elements of being a casual listener depending on the genre, artist etc. Fans are more active listeners, they look beyond the face of an artist and are more appreciative of the creative minds behind an artist.
They are individuals that increase a producer’s popularity predominantly because, fans become knowledgeable of a movement not just the artist. This may include researching; the producer, writers, executive producer etc. Timbaland and Aaliyah are a well-known duo that through Aaliyah’s album and singles this led to Timbalands breakthrough as a producer. Timbaland was hugely involved in producing Aaliyah’s second album ‘One in a Million’ alongside Missy Elliott. Timbaland’s sound began to be appreciated amongst the fans and those within the music industry. This creates a platform for the producer to feed of from. Producers begin to form their own fan base online and worldwide, so their popularity is less dependent on the joint work with an artist.
Collaboration and appreciation from artists has led to record producer recognition is the famous pair; Drake and 40. Drake constantly praises 40 for his work. He often refers to 40 in his songs if you listen attentively. It is beneficial for these artists to want to promote these producers, the foundation of the music, because they initiate the inspiration and stimulate the artist to make great music. Fans mainly support music artists (i.e. rappers and singers) however, when a producer is well-known and recognised for creating a unique sound, fans begin to latch on eventually increasing a producer’s popularity. A producer DJ Mustard and rapper YG, another duo that created a rap dance sound named “ratchet music” received a great response. This led to DJ mustard’s work with the likes of Tyga creating a #1 hit “Rack City”.
Frequently producers get scrutinized by music critics who analyse genres, artistry, interview musicians and review bodies of work. Music critics (music listener) helps by forming a judgement on the value of a piece of work created by an individual, group or even genre of music. They give light to ALL musicians so we can look forward to blog posts and reviews on producers alongside interviews! This of course can help build a producer’s popularity. Overall, the listeners of music shouldn’t be underestimated in the power they hold. Especially fans and critics that help bring to light the creatives behind the artist.
-Daniella Francis
Genre Genres are a complex factor that influence the popularity of producers in the music industry. Of this current wave of sonic artists, it appears the most popular music producers emerge from the world of Hip hop, pop music and EDM. The producers that have a prominent influence on the sounds being created also expand their popularity through other forms of creativity. The audience are more familiar with these producers because they have a hand in most of the popular song at any time of the year. Some may argue that the artists (singer/vocalist) are the ones that get the most notoriety, which is correct, but in association to the genres that people love to listen to, their names are bound to arise in conversation.
On the other hand, the importance in the eyes of listeners may have diminished greatly due to evidence of the classical genre. Classical music boasted the creative genius of composers such as Beethoven, Mozart, and Chopin. These were the original ‘producers’ that created the melodic tones that can be recognised today. Classical Music focused on the person putting their fingers to an instrument before a voice or tone of voice was perceived an instrument. As the art of classical music diminished in popularity, the forms of musical expression emerged such as Jazz, Blues, Rock and roll and Hip hop. Transitioning from the producers being the centre of attention to vocalists and therefore acquiring the fame and acclaim in the majority sense. Producers such as Quincy Jones and Jimmy Iovine were respected for their work and legacy.
As time goes on they contributed to some of the greatest albums created. In the genre of Rock, instrumentalists may have been hugely popular, similarly to being the lead singer. They may have been part of the production process but the executive producer of the music created does not get as much acknowledgment. In hip hop there is plenty opportunity in this day and age for producers to be even more popular than most artists. The culture values Producers highly, some will argue not enough. Producers such as Dr Dre, Kanye West and Pharrell Paved the way for current producers such as Metro Boomin, DJ Mustard and Mike will to create a lasting brand. This all begins with the instrumental landscapes they create, also forming various outlets to grow their brand and notoriety. -Derrick Odafi
Producers Transitioning When a hit Record drops, the first person that gets credit is the artist. the voice of the song, the face of the music. Few people give props to the person who produced the music; it’s not that they don’t care, it’s that sometimes they aren’t given the recognition due. Some record producers Prefer to lay low and stay out of the limelight but others like Calvin Harris, DJ Khaled, Metro Boomin’ are prominent and are arguably on par with the top musicians in terms of popularity. Their publicity and recognition is a product of the way they have promoted themselves. Calvin Harris releases his albums and singles under his name, featuring the artist(s) instead of being just a producer. DJ Khaled and Metro Boomin’ use producer tags to create familiarity with the audience. ‘If Young Metro don't trust you I'm gon’ shoot you’ is possibly the most well-known out of the three main producer tags Metro Boomin’ uses.
Collaborating with Drake, Future, Young Thug and Kanye West, Metro Boomin’ has certainly climbed his way up to receive the recognition ordained for him. His work has garnered awards such as producer of the year at both the BMI R&B/Hip-Hop and BET Hip-Hop Awards. Record producers often branch out to prove to the music industry and the world that they aren’t always behind the scenes. An archetype of this is Dr Dre, a rapper and record producer but being the founder of Aftermath entertainment and beats electronics certainly increased his publicity towards an even wider audience. It’s clear that being more than a producer is a clever way for producers to be acknowledged. It gives them different platforms to publicise themselves so in turn they can gain more recognition.
Dj-ing is another avenue producers use to increase their esteem. Even by being a part of or creating a record label, producers - such as Mike Wills - are being accredited for their work. By signing the Hip-Hop duo Rae Sremmurda to Ear-Drummers entertainment label, Mike Wills has indirectly given himself recognition; now whenever they release music people instantly know who produced the song. Black Beatle, No flex zone, swang etc. Starting a record label is a clever way of building the producers brand and cultivating more hit songs which will future their popularity and legacy in the music industry. Even DJ Khaled is a record label executive and has a radio show on one of the biggest streaming companies, Apple Music. Producers also being DJs is a bonus; it gives them the chance to host events and put their names at the forefront in the industry.
-Faith Utulu
Film ASAP MOB - RAF The wave for music videos this year has seemed to take a creative step back, and when I say I am refereeing to artists and directors taking influence from vintage cinematography and reduced resolution as motivation for videos. Be it the sound, dress code and even the visuals we now see in our favourite artists music videos. The visuals of New York’s very own A$AP Rocky, who this year released the visuals for his song RAF featuring Quavo and Playboi Carti. The original song that also has Frank Ocean and Lil Uzi Vert who don’t appear the video. The record is an offering from the A$AP MOB project released as part of the collectives ‘Awgest’ campaign. At first glance of the video, as a cinematographer I feel this may have been one of the easiest days of shooting for the D.O.P. All 2mins 28 of the video is still and the primary focus is on the editing. This makes sense since the idea of the video is very runway based as A$AP Rocky shows of his Raf Simmons summer 2002 Collection gear in a way that is creative. The opening shot from the video refers to this collection. The vision behind this collection was described in the quote “Woe unto Those Who Spit unto the Fear Generation; The Wind Will Blow It Back.” Asap Rocky is seen lighting a red road flare just like the model did in Simons’ Spring/Summer 2002 runway show, With the “Kollaps” sleeveless hoodie from the collection.
Cinematograpghy Reviews
This collection came soon after the events of 9/11, when not only the United States, but also the world was amid a state panic. Uncertainty, anxiety, and bubbling undercurrents of discontent were all prevalent at that time and Simons captured them all in this historical collection. Through This video it could be a way of the Mob showing their understanding of current social issues through the lens of fashion. The Music video Raf was mainly inspired by Raf Simons visual look book Fall/ Winter 1995-1996 collection, Simons’ first showing. The idea of using the VHS style of shooting I agree with because of the theme of the dress code most of the clothes and fashion in the video are from the late 90s to early 2000s, therefore showing correlation between the Mise en scene and cinematography. The daring and sometimes colourful imagery is really work well on camera, as the aspect ratio of the video matches the idea of an old school visual with a current sound.
This video is simple yet effect, the editing really takes the video to another level since the camera doesn’t seem to have a lot of activity. In my opinion, this is the easiest bit of cash a D.O.P could make in a day and have loads of fun doing it.
- Prince .D. Molife
A$AP MOB - FEEL SO GOOD I think I have watched this music video more times than I can imagine, looking at it from both a fans perspective and Through a cinematographer’s eye. When I look at this video as Director of Photography (DOP) the visuals give me hell to say the least. The camera work, the movement and lighting of the room are all things that we’re told should matter as video content creators. seem to be the least of the director hidjifims’ worries. It is as though the wanted to intentionally make every cinematographers skin crawl, including mine. However, I had to look outside of rules of cinematography, I had to look at the year, the music and what’s going on currently in this creative world of music visuals. Although this video at first viewing sent a terrible shiver down my spine, its what I needed to see to remind me that, no great DOP is remembered for following all the rules. They had to make the rest of the world conform to a type of structure and come out of that regularity to create something that lasts longer and people can appreciate. I can appreciate this video because currently, Viewers get so many videos that a taken on an amateur style. Very shaky graining and working with whatever light is available at the time. I realise that this video was not about aesthetic value, it was about your favourite rappers showing you something that you can relate to on a day when one of your friends grabs their phone records you, singing to your favourite song with your squad. In my opinion, as irritating as it may be for the older camera creatives its genius for the season. It really shows off the comradery that the Mob have with each other. It is a great reflection of the music as they go back and forth sonically but also struggle for camera time in the video. It is an out of focus, spontaneous video that gives the imagery of them finishing a photoshoot and rocky says “Guys Lets do a video for feel so good like...right now”
- Prince .D. Molife
Nasty C Don’t Do It ft Telleman As we would expect, a lot of music videos have found this new creative energy that has just changed the game Profoundly. Most of this kind of creativity had come from the obvious places like the United States but I think one thing people have missed this year is what has been going on outside of this country. Right now, I’d like to focus on a specific artist who I feel has really set a bar with the visual work he puts across for people. Born in Durban, South Africa, Nasty C released an album in 2016 called Bad Hair and on that album, has a song by the name Don't Do it. This song came with visuals that had me amazed me at the artistry and how creative the direction of the song and visuals were put together. This video Was released to the public in March 2017, and he has continued to drop more stunning visuals, but this video in particular stood out for me because it reminded me how African rappers and artists really get slept on globally and deserve to be part of the conversation now when it comes to creativity. Nasty C doesn't only give you good visuals but amazing lyrical content, which I'm a sucker for already. He uses monarch art has a reference in the visuals to ‘Don’t Do it’ which I thought was very clever because of how the beat itself has that epic sound mixed with trap giving an interesting visual and sonic contrast. The lighting of the whole video is a cinematographer’s ideal setup in how they made the set look as natural as possible, although quite a few lights were used to light up the set. The edit works prefect with the camera movement as it goes from slow to fast working well with the audio itself. Nasty C really gives you the impression that he's an alpha male in the video maybe also aiming at he is one in the industry.
The graphic design of the video really gives the vibe of something you'd expect to see from Kanye during the My Beautiful dark twisted fantasy era and it has a Travis Scott abstract context to the video. This young 20-year-old has put focus into the art of his visuals and picked the right team to represent him to the nation and world. I'm definitely a fan of this video and hold it even more close to me because of where it's from South Africa. I hope the rest of the world can catch on to the new wave of African visual quality really soon because this definitely is the new generation of stunning presentation that we're on. This is also a sign to show that African artists now need to be taken seriously in music and videography and not just one side of Africa but all over the globe.
-Prince .D. Molife
Edited by @bashdavidson
Photography by @esco_boomin
Graphics by @visualsbyjs
Artists tend to forget the adage that recommends working collectively to achieve better conditions, due to the solitary nature of the craft but find themselves amazed at the added rewards that emerge when they employ the saying. -Kelechi Agomoh Thank You To Everyone Involved In The first issue of #newwavemagazine.
Editor/Curator: Derrick Odafi Head Photographer: Charles Ogunmilade Fashion Consultant: Teresa mwangi Thank you to the New Wave Team
Instagram: @nwavemagazine Twitter: @NWMagazine