SPENCER HORNBY, THE PHANTOM & THE RIGHT
HIT-AND-RUN Words & Photos by Spencer Hor nby
This was the first time I had the good fortune of photographing Chris Ross. I had just come off a little hit-and-run trip up north in West Australia when a totally different swell [pictured] had showed its true colours on the map in the same state. Bags were packed, skis were attached and phone calls were made in accordance. One call of which being to Chris ‘Crossy’ Ross – a local lad from the town of Denmark who had given us the heads up that it was going to be on at this certain wave. So the drive was a go-ahead. My travel partner and fellow lensman Russell Ord had given me the spiel on Crossy and also the wave we were going to visit. “Wait till you see what this kid does out there – he’s got a screw loose – nutcase. Especially at this wave, it’s mental,” he said. I sat quietly listening to Russ, who himself is somewhat a nutcase for his own photographic acts out in the water at this spot. Hit fast-forward to 6.30am the next day. We’re on the ski ride out and it’s big. The water is a dark, sharky chrome colour, the wind is icy and we are lunging through 15 feet of swell every few seconds. Still haven’t met Crossy or any of the other surfers either. I can see different bombies through the misty sea spray up ahead in our path of travel. All peaks feathering in the distance – I’m wondering which wave will be the one, and it soon becomes apparent. Just as the first set rears its beautiful, yet ugly head, another jetski appears out of the mist. It’s ridden by two people. The guy on the back is looking away from me and the person driving is wearing a full balaclava. “Oh here’s Crossy,” says Russ. I’m picturing a phantom, like some sort of mythical surfer who you only hear stories about and who surfs in a bank robbery costume so nobody will ever know his true identity… But nope. Off with the outfit and it’s a forever smiling, pleased-to-meet-you Chris Ross who’s accompanied by his good friends, Chris Shannahan and Ben Rufus. The three madmen who no doubt, completely run the place and each surfer patiently makes sure they stand tall in some very large barrels. I’m not sure if Crossy just had a great day’s surfing or if he was up to the old tricks that I had just never witnessed. It’s the sort of wave that can give you a glimpse into heaven or hell. Pick the wrong one and you will be fanging down the line and all of a sudden you will be heading straight into a left-hander with a tiny exit hole that nobody ever sneaks through. Pick the right one on the other hand and you could retire from surfing a happy man once you’ve kicked out in the channel. On this particular day Crossy took no prisoners.
TAJ BURROW GOING ABOVE AND BEYOND IN A FREE SURF AT JEFFREYS.