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Moon Acadia National Park 6th Edition Hilary Nangle
An imprint of Globe Pequot Trade division of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. 4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200, Lanham, MD 20706 www.rowman.com
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INTRODUCTION
Carved by glaciers, chiseled by the relentlessly pounding surf, Acadia National Park is at once tranquil and wild, changing yet enduring, a place of beautiful contradictions.
One of the smallest parks in the National Park System and the only one in the Northeast, Acadia lies within a day’s drive of one quarter of the North American population, attracting more than two million people a year, most of them in summer. Yet solitude is easily found on the 120 miles of hiking paths, 45 miles of carriage roads, and even on the well-traveled Park Loop Road if one ventures out onto the pink granite shoreline and settles on a sun-warmed ledge to watch the crashing waves.
Acadia National Park’s roots can be traced to two men who loved the Maine coast and their wish to preserve it for future generations: George Bucknam Dorr and John D. Rockefeller Jr. Dorr, a Mount Desert Island summer resident in the early 1900s, spent much of his adult life bringing the park into being. Over a period of forty years, he acquired parcels with his own money and persuaded many others to do the same, and he tirelessly lobbied politicians and government officials to give the land federal protection. Among his lasting legacies are the beautiful hand-built stone stairway trails that distinguish hiking in Acadia National Park. Rockefeller, too, gave generously
— indeed, he is the single largest donator of land to Acadia, his gifts amounting to roughly one-quarter of the park’s 47,000 acres. Like Dorr, he left an indelible mark on the landscape: his carriage roads and stone bridges are among Acadia’s defining characteristics.
For all the spectacles, natural and manmade, that Acadia bestows upon its visitors, there are places of subtler beauty: the Park Loop Road delivers sun-dappled birch forests and expansive meadows; Sieur de Monts Spring gives unexpected insight into the natural world through the Wild Gardens of Acadia and fascinating lessons about Native American culture and history in the Abbe Museum; the carriage roads slip past freshwater marshes, blueberry patches, and peaceful ponds upon which rest beaver lodges and a snapping turtle or two.
You’ll find these settings and experiences in Ultimate Acadia: 50 Reasons to Visit Maine’s National Park. Part thrilling, raw coast, part gently groomed wilderness, all intertwined with quiet lobstering villages and festive resort towns, Acadia is a distinctly Maine treasure.
PARK LOOP ROAD
IS
MAINE’S MOST SCENIC DRIVE
What Old Faithful is to Yellowstone, the Park Loop Road is to Acadia: If you have only three hours to spend at Acadia, you spend them here. If you have a week to explore, you begin your exploration here. And if you’re hiking, biking, rock climbing, riding horses, or sunbathing, chances are, you get to your adventure via this avenue. Park Loop Road is Acadia’s premier attraction.
Nineteen years in the building, Park Loop Road is, in part, philanthropist John D. Rockefeller Jr.’s creative response to the arrival of automobiles on Mount Desert Island, a development he had long opposed (cars were banned on the island from 1908 to 1915). By helping to finance the road, he took control of the inevitable: The cars were coming, but his motor road would keep them out of the park’s interior and off his beautiful carriage roads. He
did not stint on the design. He hired landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted Jr. of Olmsted Brothers, renowned for his city park systems, to recommend a route that would take in some of Acadia’s most remarkable natural landmarks and create breathtaking overlooks. Rockefeller poured so much money into the project, that locals dubbed it “Rockefeller’s Four Million Dollar Road.”
It is the ultimate Sunday drive. For the first half of its twenty-seven miles, Park Loop Road unfolds one gasp-eliciting view after another. From the Hulls Cove entrance on the northern end of Mount Desert Island, the roadway traverses the Bluffs with their panoramic views of vast, blue Frenchman Bay, then curves inland to a serene landscape of sun-dappled white birch woodlands, golden meadows, and small ponds.
A few more miles south, the road is shadowed by the dark granite cliffs of 1,058foot Champlain Mountain. Here people train their binoculars on the Precipice, where hikers negotiate a vertical labyrinth of narrow ledges and rungs embedded in the rock. More tantalizing ridge-top views of the ocean follow before the road drops down to meet that cold blue sea. Waves crash against pink granite cliffs and cobble beaches, whose
smooth stones clink together and sing as the water rushes in and out.
Next the road loops inland to a different landscape entirely. This lush, mature spruce and pine forest was spared by the devastating fire of 1947, which burned more than 17,000 acres on Mount Desert Island in fourteen days. The forest has not, however, been spared winter’s powerful winds — it is a forbidding tangle of lichendraped blow-downs and mossy hummocks.
Now Park Loop Road skirts Jordan Pond and Eagle Lake, offering glimpses of Rockefeller’s carriage roads, stone bridges, and carriage houses, then rises once again through newer deciduous woodlands and passes the turnoff to the summit of Cadillac Mountain.
Park Loop Road is a journey through a gentleman’s wilderness — a natural landscape tamed to allow people inside, yet preserved to inspire awe and wonder.
Mile by Mile: Park Loop Road
0 Hulls Cove Visitor Center
5.8 Sieur de Monts Spring and the Wild Gardens of Acadia
6.4 Beaver Dam Pond
7.7 The Precipice
8.5 Entrance Station
ANYONE CAN WALK THE OCEAN PATH
As far as Acadia hiking goes, the Ocean Path, a wide, graded, mostly level, two-mile walkway, is one of the easier hikes and is ideal for older folks or young children. But for filling one’s senses with Acadia’s raw, wild beauty, this amble is unsurpassed. Glinting ocean, thundering waves, the intermingling salt and spice of sea and fir — the Ocean Path has it all. Paralleling Park Loop Road, the path takes in several of Acadia’s most famous natural landmarks, among them Sand Beach, Thunder Hole, Monument Cove, and Otter Cliff.
SAND BEACH IS 290 YARDS OF PARADISE...
People often laugh at the seemingly unimaginative name of this little strand, but it does just what a good label should: It distinguishes this beach from most others in Acadia National Park. Sand Beach is one of only two natural sand beaches on Mount Desert Island—the other is in the village of Seal Harbor; and the sandy beach at Echo Lake, south of Somesville in MDI’s southwestern interior, is manmade. Natural sand beaches are a rarity in Maine, whose jagged three-thousand-mile coastline is largely defined by granite boulders, ledges, and cliffs.
A 290-yard, soft, pinkish-white crescent tucked between rocky headlands, Sand
Beach is a carbonate beach, meaning its sand is comprised largely of the finely ground shells of mussels, periwinkles, urchins, and other shellfish, a biogenic composition more typical of the tropics. Washed in by the currents, the sand accumulates in the shelter of Great Head, the rugged promontory at the beach’s eastern end, and Old Soaker, an island just offshore.
In winter, however, Sand Beach sometimes defies its name, as stormwhipped waves and winds siphon the sand away, exposing the big rocks underneath. “The sand disappears,” Acadia National Park ranger Carmedy West tells people during guided walks on the Ocean Path, “but it always comes back in the spring.”
…but it’s cold!
The water temperature at Sand Beach rarely exceeds fifty-five degrees, according to the National Park Service.
BAR HARBOR IS A FESTIVAL ALL SUMMER LONG
Maine’s best-known tourist town, Bar Harbor bustles with activity spring to fall. Most of Mount Desert Island’s stores, restaurants, and hotels are here, and downtown takes on a carnival atmosphere in summer. People crowd the sidewalks, making their way among the boutiques and art galleries, eating lobster and sipping beer at outdoor cafes, and listening to band concerts on the town green. Incorporated in 1796 as Eden (after English statesman Sir Richard Eden, not the mythical garden), the town renamed itself in 1918 for the sand bar that runs from the shore to Bar Island. By then, the town’s golden era as a summer playground for America’s wealthiest and most powerful people (J.P. Morgan, George Vanderbilt, and Joseph Pulitzer among them) was beginning to fade.
The fire of 1947, which destroyed sixty-seven mansions and cottages, and several luxury hotels, dealt the final blow.
Bar Harbor’s appeal as a vacation place, however, has not only endured, but grown. In addition to the millions of tourists who arrive by car, thirty to fifty big cruise ships lay anchor in the harbor each summer.
don’t miss
h Crossing the sandbar at the end of Bridge Street to explore trails that loop around forested Bar Island. Wear a watch: You have about an hour and a half before and after low tide to visit; otherwise, you may get stranded.
h Seeing a movie at the Criterion Theatre and Arts Center, a well-preserved art deco-style movie house at 35 Cottage Street.
h Strolling on the 130-year-old Shore Path, a manicured one-mile loop along the shoreline from the town pier to the Bar Harbor Inn to Wayman Lane.
h Viewing thousands of lobster hatchlings, touching sea creatures, and exploring a salt marsh at the Mount Desert Oceanarium, 1351 State Route 3.
h Tasting lobster ice cream at Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium, 66 Main Street. Come on, when else will you have a chance to try it?
THE BUBBLES ARE BEAUTY EMBODIED
The Bubbles at the pond’s north end are named for their distinctive rounded shape and are said to resemble a woman’s breasts (one story claims that they were originally named the Boobies or the Bubbies). A trail in the gap between North Bubble and South Bubble is the quickest (and relatively easy) route to both summits. Bubble Rock, which appears to sit precariously on the summit of South Bubble, can been seen from an overlook on Park Loop Road.
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a particularly happy season—save in its purely spiritual aspect. He was full of anxiety about Beatrix. It was hard to live so near her, and yet not dare to approach her. He had seen her in church every Sunday morning, and had seen her looking ill and worn. He knew that she was unhappy, and without a friend except Bella Scratchell. What a dismal season Christmas must seem for her, poor child! How cruel a mockery the joy-bells, and holly boughs, and outward semblance of festivity!
His business to-day took him the direction of the bridge. He could see the Water House on the other side of the river, its gray walls and ivy-covered entrance tower looming darkly through a mist of rain. Who was this approaching him along the muddy road, struggling manfully against wind and rain? Cyril could see nothing but a pair of pepper and salt legs under a gingham umbrella. The pepper and salt legs brought the umbrella nearer him. It was an umbrella with a slippery brass handle, and altogether an affliction to its possessor. A sudden gust blew it on one side, and revealed the countenance of Mr. Namby, pale and agitated.
‘How d’ye do, Namby?’ said Cyril, with no intention of saying more, for the village surgeon was a talkative little man, and the busy curate had no time to waste upon gossip. But Mr. Namby made a dead stop.
‘Oh, Mr. Culverhouse, I have just come from the Water House.’ This was enough to bring Cyril to a standstill also. ‘There is awful trouble there.’
‘Good heavens! What trouble? Is Miss Harefield ill?’
‘Poor child! She is in a dreadful state. Her father is dead.’
Cyril felt as if his heart had stopped beating. The rainy landscape rocked before his eyes, the muddy road reeled beneath his feet.
‘Dead!’ he gasped.
‘Dead, suddenly. And I’m afraid by poison.’
‘What!’ cried Cyril. ‘You must be mad to say such a thing.’
‘It will be for the coroner to decide; there will be an inquest, of course. But I have no doubt as to the cause of death. There are all the symptoms of poisoning by opium.’
‘Good God! Was he in the habit of taking opium?’
‘Not to my knowledge.’
‘But he surely must have been. How else should he come by his death? It must have been an over dose of opium.’
‘I never heard him complain of acute pain. He had an iron constitution. He had no reason for taking opium that I can see.’
‘No reason! Look at the men who take it without reason, for the pleasure of taking it. Look at Coleridge—De Quincey. Mr. Harefield was just the kind of man to be an opium-eater. That would account for his hermit-like life existence—his seclusion from all the world. He had a world of his own—he had the opium-eater’s paradise.’
‘It is possible,’ said Mr. Namby, doubtfully. ‘But it is strange that I should never have perceived the symptoms. There are unmistakable indications in the appearance of the habitual opium-eater.’
‘How often did you see Mr. Harefield?’
‘Not very often, I confess.’
‘Not often enough for your observations of him to be worth much. Dead! It is very awful. When did it happen?’
Mr Namby proceeded to relate all he had heard at the Water House; and for once in his life he found Cyril Culverhouse a patient listener.
‘And Miss Harefield? How does she bear the shock?’
‘She is very quiet. She seems stupefied. The whole thing was so sudden. She and Miss Scratchell dined with Mr. Harefield yesterday evening. There was nothing to show that he was ill or agitated, or in any way different from his usual self.’
‘Who is with Miss Harefield?’
‘Only Miss Scratchell and the servants. That excellent Miss Scales is away in Devonshire, with an ailing relation; but she is expected back daily.’
‘She ought to be summoned at once. I’ll call at the Vicarage and ask Mrs. Dulcimer to go to the Water House.’
He turned back with Mr. Namby, and they walked together towards the Vicarage, which was at the other end of the village street.
Mr. Namby turned into his own garden gate, and left Cyril to go on alone to the Vicarage. Mr. Culverhouse had no exalted opinion of Mrs. Dulcimer’s good sense, but he highly estimated her good nature, and he could think of no one better whose friendship he could appeal to on Beatrix Harefield’s behalf. Mrs. Dulcimer was warmly attached to Beatrix. She would be overflowing with kindliness and sympathy in this hour of trouble.
The Vicar was in his library, Mrs. Dulcimer in the dining-room with Rebecca, allotting little heaps of warm clothing as Christmas gifts for her poor parishioners. The dining-table was covered with neatly made flannels and linsey petticoats. Mrs. Dulcimer and Rebecca were folding and smoothing the little packages, and admiring their own work, for Rebecca’s needle was as busy as her mistress’s in this benevolent labour.
Rebecca withdrew respectfully, at the curate’s entrance, and Cyril told Mrs. Dulcimer what had happened at the Water House. She interrupted him continually with questions and exclamations; but he got through his story somehow
‘Poor dear child!’ cried Mrs. Dulcimer, when she had heard all; ‘coming into that fine estate; poor Mr. Harefield’s mother was a Pynsent, you know, and all the Pynsent property goes with the Harefield estate, and under such shocking circumstances. What a pity she hasn’t a husband to protect her interests! I shouldn’t wonder if the property were thrown into Chancery. If your cousin Kenrick had only been wise now——’
‘What do you mean, Mrs. Dulcimer?’
‘He might have been owner of the finest property in the West Riding. He might have been Beatrix’s husband by this time.’
‘I think the lady would have been entitled to a voice in the matter,’ said Cyril, ‘however wise my cousin Kenrick might have been.’
‘Oh, nonsense, Cyril! Such a young man as Kenrick might choose for himself. And in poor Beatrix’s position she would naturally have reciprocated his affection, if it had only been warmly offered.’
‘I cannot agree with you there. But if you will go and see the poor girl——’
‘I’ll put on my bonnet this instant. Will you come with me, Cyril?’
‘I think not, I should be of no use.’
‘Well, a man certainly is apt to be in the way under such circumstances. He never knows what to say, or what to leave unsaid.’
‘And a woman never errs in leaving anything unsaid,’ remarked the Vicar, entering through the curtained archway.
While Mrs. Dulcimer was putting on her bonnet, Cyril told the Vicar what Mr. Namby had said about the cause of Christian Harefield’s death, a detail which he had not communicated to Mrs. Dulcimer.
‘This makes it a painful business,’ said Cyril.
‘Very,’ answered the Vicar. ‘But I should not be surprised at Mr. Harefield having deliberately taken the dose that killed him.’
‘Why not?’
‘Because to my mind he was a likely subject for suicide. Look at the life he led. A man must sooner or later get tired of leading such a life. Some day he must say to himself, “Wherefore, to what end do I live?” And then, if he is half an infidel, if religion exercises no restraining influence over his acts, he will make up his mind, suddenly, perhaps, to end his existence. He has no love of his fellow-men to anchor him to earth, no hope of anything bright or good waiting for him in the coming years. He has a very faint belief— possibly none at all—in a tribunal beyond this world where he will
have to answer for his deeds It is very clear to me that for the last ten years Christian Harefield’s life has been burdened by some incurable sorrow. He may have grown weary of bearing the sorrow, as people grow weary of bearing pain.’
‘You are probably right,’ said Cyril; ‘yet I should rather believe his death accidental.’
Mrs. Dulcimer went to the Water House, knowing no more than the fact of Mr. Harefield’s sudden death and his daughter’s desolation. She went up to Beatrix’s room, expecting that the stricken girl would throw herself into her arms and pour out all her woes upon that friendly bosom. Mrs. Dulcimer’s frills and puffings and broad bonnetstrings were in a flutter with the importance of her mission. She felt as if she were the young heiress’s legal guardian.
‘My dearest girl,’ she cried, ‘how my heart bleeds for you!’
But Beatrix was in a curious mood. She seemed not to want other people’s bleeding hearts. Indeed, her own heart was too deeply wounded to receive comfort from such sympathetic bleeding.
Mrs. Dulcimer made all the customary speeches which are made and provided for such occasions.
‘You must come to the Vicarage with me, my love,’ she said. ‘You must not stop in this dreary house.’
But here Beatrix was firm. She would not leave the house in which her dead father was lying.
‘We were not happy together while he was living,’ she said, ‘but I will not desert him now he is dead.’
And then she relapsed into a state of seeming apathy, from which Mrs. Dulcimer found it impossible to rouse her. Bella was there, looking pale and scared, but ready to be useful if she were required.
By and by, failing in all attempts at consolation, Mrs. Dulcimer went downstairs to talk this sad business over with the housekeeper and Mr Scratchell, who had appeared upon the scene as legal representative of the deceased, and had already busied himself in a
semi-official manner in locking up papers and setting seals on desks and cabinets in the library.
From the butler and housekeeper Mrs. Dulcimer heard details which she had not heard from Cyril Culverhouse. She was told all about the mysterious visitor of the previous night.
‘I believe he was one of Mrs. Harefield’s Italian friends,’ said the butler. ‘There was something familiar about his face. I could as good as swear I’ve seen him times and often before last night.’
‘As good as swearing won’t do,’ said Mr. Scratchell, with professional severity. ‘Unless you are prepared to make a direct statement upon oath you had better say nothing, about your impressions and recollections before the coroner by and by.’
‘The coroner!’ cried Mrs. Dulcimer, with a look of horror. ‘What has the coroner to do with it?’
‘Why, my dear madam, as Mr. Harefield’s death is both sudden and mysterious, there will naturally be an inquest. The notices have been sent round to the jury already, I believe, and the inquiry will be held here this afternoon. To-morrow being Christmas Day, you see, allows of no time being lost.’
‘Oh, this is too dreadful!’ exclaimed Mrs. Dulcimer; ‘that poor girl, without a single relation, in a house of death, under such fearful circumstances. I must get her away.’
‘I would strongly recommend you to do nothing of the kind. Miss Harefield had better stop here. She will be wanted as a witness, for it was she who discovered her father’s death. Her leaving the house might create a scandal. She need not be alone. Bella can stay with her.’
‘Poor girl,’ sighed Mrs. Dulcimer. ‘What a position!’
And then, the ruling passion still dominant in her mind, she thought of Sir Kenrick Culverhouse, and what an opportunity this time of trouble might afford for the ripening of friendship into love. It was a time in which a young woman would naturally lean upon a masculine
mind for support and guidance, in which words of comfort would sound stronger from masculine lips.
‘If Kenrick were only here to-day,’ thought Mrs. Dulcimer
And then she remembered that Sir Kenrick had given her a halfpromise that he would come back to Yorkshire in time to eat his Christmas dinner at the Vicarage.