T A B L E O F
C O N T E N T S TECH PACK FOR SUGARHILL TECH PACK FOR VANQUISH QUALITY ANALYSIS TREND ANALYSIS CARBON FOOTPRINT 4 20 35 37 42 REFERENCE 46
Specification Pack (1) Design Specification
Season: 2024 A/W
Style: Denim Jacket
Description: Men's Type 2 Raw Denim Jacket
Date: 9/1/2023
S u g a h 4
MAKE DETAILS
Cut one way for the whole shirt
Using contrast color stitch for the whole thread
COLLAR
-The collar is attached to the bodice by using 301 stitches
-The top and the bottom collars are sewn together by using 301 stitches
BODICE
-The front and the back patterns are attached by using the 401 stitches
-Left 10cm seam allowance for the front triple pleats, the pleats start from the highest shoulder point to the top of the hem strap, 301 stitches are used to hold the pleats
-The front and back yoke is patched to the bodice by using 301 stitches
-Cut and stitch 5 buttonholes by using 304 stitches
-The pocket is patched to the front bodice using 301
-2 bar tacking edges on the of the pocket are sewn by 304 stitches
-The Hanger loop, information tags, brand label and size tag are sewn to the bodice by 301 stitches.
SLEEVES
-Sleeves are attached to the bodice using 401 and overlocked with 516 stitches
-The upper and under arm are connected by 301 and overlocked with 516 stitches
-Repeat the same process for the other sleeves
-Brand label ( Brand name )
-Information label ( Wash care instructions, Size, Country, Composition, etc)
-17mm Laurel Leaf Donut Buttons
TRIM DETAILS
-9.5mm copper jeans rivets
-Patch pockets ( With pocket flaps )
-Sewing threads ( Orange )
-Topstitching with twin needles
-Cinch back with the metal buckle
-Pleats ( At the front, back and cuff )
DETAILS
SIZE
XS, S, M, L, XL 5
Specification Pack (2) Size Specification
Season: 2024 A/W
Style: Denim Jacket
Description: Men's Type 2 Raw Denim Jacket
Date: 9/1/2023
S h A1 L2 M2 L1 L3 M1 M3 C1 U1 U2 C2 M4 H P2 K2 K1 P1 J1 A2 I Q2 T2 T4 N6 S1 T1 D2 J2 S4 S5 D1 E T3 N2 B N5 N3 N1 N4 F1 Q1 F2 F3 G O R2 R1 S3 S2 T6 T5 U4 U3 6
Size Measurements – All measurements are in cm (Sugarhill)
No Name Tolerances +/- XS S M L XL A1 Center Front Length 2 47 4 48 4 49 4 50 4 51 4 A2 Neck Drop 0 7 5 7 5 7 5 7 5 7 5 B Neck Opening 0 25 16 16 5 16 5 16 5 17 C1 Stand Collar Width 0 25 10 5 11 11 11 11 5 C2 Collar Width 0.25 7.2 7.7 7.7 7.7 8 2 D1 Shoulder Seam 1.5 15.7 16.7 17.7 18.7 19.7 D2 Shoulder point to point 1 41.9 42.9 43.9 44.9 45.9 E Armhole 2 44 46 48 50 52 F1 Sleeve Length 2 57 9 59 2 60 5 61 8 63 1 F2 Cuff Circumference 0.5 26.3 27.3 28.3 29.3 30 3 F3 Cuff Width 0.5 3.5 3 4 4 4.5 G Side Seam 1 28.2 29.2 30.2 31.2 32.2 H Chest 2 81 86 91 96 101 I Hem 2 76 6 81 6 86 6 91 6 96 6 J1 Placket Width 0.5 3.2 3.7 3.7 3.7 4.2 J2 Distance between two buttons 0 11 11.5 11.5 11.5 12 K1 Distance from Placket to Top of Pocket 0.25 5.5 6 6 6 6.5
7
Size Measurements – All measurements are in cm (Sugarhill)
No Name Tolerances +/- XS S M L XL K2 Distance from Placket to Bottom of Pocket 0.25 11.5 12 12 12 12.5 L1 Top Pocket Width 0.25 12 12.5 12.5 12.5 13 L2 Bottom Pocket Curve Width 0.25 14.3 14.8 14.8 14.8 15.3 L3 Pocket Length 0 25 12 9 13 4 13 4 13 4 13 9 M1 Top Pocket Flap Length 0 25 5 5 6 6 6 6 5 M2 Bottom Pocket Flap Curve Length 0 25 13 7 14 2 14 2 14 2 14 7 M3 Pocket Flap Width 0 12.8 12.8 12.8 12.8 12.8 M4 Distance between Flap and Pocket 0 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 N1 Center Front Yoke Width 0 25 15 15 5 16 16 5 16 N2 Front Yoke Width 0.25 14.5 15 15.5 16 16.5 N3 Center Back Yoke Width 0.25 16.5 17 17.5 18 18.5 N4 Yoke Sleeve 0.25 7.7 8.2 8.7 9.2 9.7 N5 Center Front Yoke Curve Length 0 25 41 7 42 2 42 7 43 2 43 7 N6 Center Back Yoke Curve Length 0 5 36 36 5 37 37 5 38 O Hem Strap Width 0 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 P1 Center Back length (from Neck Drop to Hem ) 2 55.4 56.4 57.4 58.4 59.4 P2 High Point Shoulder to Hem 1 56.2 57.2 58.2 59.2 60.2
8
Size Measurements – All measurements are in cm (Sugarhill)
No Name Tolerances +/- XS S M L XL Q1 Under Sleeve Length 2 41 43 45 47 49 Q2 Center Back Collar Width 0.25 8.5 9 9 9 9.5 R1 Sleeve Placket Width 0 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 R2 Sleeve Placket Length 0.5 12.3 12.8 12.8 12.8 13.2 S1 Cinch Back (Width) 0 1 9 1 9 1 9 1 9 1 9 S2 Left Cinch Back (Length) 0 16.7 16.7 16.7 16.7 16 7 S3 Right Cinch Back (Length) 0 23.9 23.9 23.9 23.9 23.9 S4 Taper width of cinch back 1 0 3.4 3.4 3.4 3.4 3.4 S5 Taper width of cinch back 2 0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 T1 Chest Pleat (Pleat Length) 0 5 37 9 38 9 39 9 40 9 42 9 T2 Chest Pleat (Pleat Width) 0 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 T3 Back Pleat (Pleat Length) 0.5 32 1 32.6 32.6 32.6 33.1 T4 Back Pleat (Distance Between Two Pleats) 0 5 28 5 29 29 29 29 5 T5 Front Sleeve Pleat (Pleat Length) 0 10 10 10 10 10 T6 Front Sleeve Pleat (Pleat Width) 0 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7
9
Size Measurements – All measurements are in cm (Sugarhill)
No Name Tolerances +/- XS S M L XL U1 Elbow Patch Length 0.25 35 35.5 36 36 5 37 U2 Elbow Patch Curve Length 0.25 74 74.5 75 75.5 76 U3 Elbow Patch Bottom Width 0 4.6 4.6 4.6 4.6 4.6 U4 Elbow Patch Center Width 0 25 12 12 5 13 2 13 7 14 2
10
Specification Pack (3) Size
Specification (Lay Plan)
Season: 2024 A/W
Style: Denim Jacket
Description: Men's Type 2 Raw Denim Jacket Date: 9/1/2023
Pattern symbol Pattern name Quantity required A1 FRONT 2 A2 FRONT YOKE 2 B1 BACK 1 B2 BACK YOKE 1 B3 EXTENDED ARMHOLE 2 C1 UPPER ARM 2 C2 UNDER ARM 2 C3 CUFF 2 C4 LEFT ELBOW PATCH 2 C5 RIGHT ELBOW PATCH 2 D HEM STRAP 1 E COLLAR 2 F1 PATCH POCKET 2 F2 POCKET FLAP 2 A1 A2 B1 B2 B3 C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 D E F1 F2
11
Specification Pack (4) Construction
Season: 2024 A/W
Style: Denim Jacket
Description: Men's Type 2 Raw Denim Jacket
Date: 9/1/2023
g h
301 Lockstitch
301 Lockstitch
301 Lockstitch
301 Lockstitch
301 Lockstitch
304 Zigzag Lockstitch
401 Two-thread Chainstitch
401 Two-thread Chainstitch
A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 D1 B1 C1 C2 12
301 lockstitch & Hem finished by 516 overlocked
STITCHING DETAILS (SUGARHILL)
Stitch type Placement Stitch length 301 Lockstitch (Red) A1, A2, A3, A4, A5 1.5mm, 6 stitches per cm 304 Zigzag Lockstitch (Blue) B1 N/A 401 Two-thread Chainstitch (Purple) C1, C2 2mm, 5 stitches per cm 516 (3-thread) (Green) D1 1 5mm, 6 stitches per cm Trim Type Placement Colour Quantity Buttons Center front and Cuff (Left and Right) PANTONE 14-5002 TPG 9 Care labels At the inside side seam PANTONE 11-4201 TPG 2 Brand labels Inside and at the center under the bottom collar, on the left pocket PANTONE 13-4305 TPG 2 Badge At the back of the garment, located on the waistband and on the left PANTONE 19-0915 TPG 1 Denim rivets Next to pocket flap (Left and Right), Back sleeves (Left and Right), Attached to Cinch back PANTONE 19-0915 TPG 8 Cinch back At the back, above waistband PANTONE 19-4020 TPG 1 Metal buckle Attached to Cinch back PANTONE 15-4305 TPG 1 Hanger loop Inside and in the middle of brand label and bottom collar PANTONE 19-4007 TPG 1 Sewing Threads At every edges of the garment PANTONE 17-1046 TPG 700M
TRIM DETAIL (SUGARHILL) 13
SEAM
Collar edges
SUPERIMPOSED SEAMS
LAPPED SEAMS
EDGE SEAMS
Pocket Flap edges
Sleeve to Bodice
Collar to Bodice
Front yoke to Bodice
Back yoke to Bodice
Elbow patches
Patch Pocket to Bodice
Pocket flap to bodice
Side Seam
Upper arm to Under arm
Front Hem
Chest Planket
Waist Band
TYPE SEAM CODE DRAWING PLACEMENT SEAM WIDTH
SSa
LSe
LSd (5.31.01) LSb (2.02.01) LSc (2.04.06) EFa (6.02.01) BSc
EFp
BOUND SEAMS SSe (1.06.03)
(1.01.01)
(1.22.01)
(3.05.01)
(8.06.01)
Cuff 1.2cm 0.8cm 1.5cm 1cm 1.2cm 1.2cm 1.2cm 1.3cm 0.9cm 1.2cm 1.3cm 1.1cm 4.5cm 1.5cm 1.3cm 14
Specification
Pack (5)
Season: 2024 A/W
Style: Denim Jacket
Description: Men's Type 2 Raw Denim Jacket
Date: 9/1/2023
Total cost (per item) 49.43 USD Bill of Materials 15
Season: 2024 A/W
Style: Denim Jacket
Description: Men's Type 2 Raw Denim Jacket
Front image
Date: 9/1/2023
Back images
Specification Pack (6) Image overview
16
Cinchback images
Brand Label image
Brand Label image
Information Label images
Information Label images
Leather Label images
17
Button image
304 Stitch (Front view)
304 Stitch (Bottom view)
301 Stitch (Front view)
301 Stitch (Bottom view)
516 Stitch (Front view)
516 Stitch (Bottom view)
401 Stitch (Front view)
18
401 Stitch (Bottom view)
19
Specification Pack (1) Design Specification
Season: 2024 A/W
Style: Denim Jacket
Description: Men's Type 2 Washed Denim Jacket
Date: 9/1/2023
S u g a h 20
MAKE DETAILS
Cut one way for the whole shirt
Using contrast color stitch for the whole thread
COLLAR
-The collar is attached to the bodice by using 301 stitches
-The top and the bottom collars are sewn together by using 301 stitches
BODICE
-The front and the back patterns are attached by using the 401 stitches
-Along the hemline sew 5 cm seam allowance for the hem strap
-Left 5cm seam allowance for the front double pleats, the double pleats start from the bottom of the front yoke to the top of the waistband, 301 stitches are used to hold the pleats
-The front yoke is attached to the front pattern by using 301 stitches, the raw hem is overlocked by using 516 stitches
-The back yoke is attached to the back by using 401 stitches
-Cut and stitch 6 buttonholes by using 304 stitches
-The pocket is patched to the front bodice using the 301 stitches
-2 bar tacking edges on the of the pocket are sewn by 304 stitches
-The Hanger loop, information tags, brand label and size tag are sewn to the bodice by 301 stitches
SLEEVES
-Sleeves are attached to the bodice using 301, overlocking 516 stitches
-The upper and under arm are connected by 401
-Repeat the same process for the other sleeves
TRIM DETAILS
-Brand label ( Brand name, Country, Size )
-Information label ( Wash care instructions, Composition, etc)
-Hanger loop
-20mm Half Shank Buttons
-Patch pockets ( With pocket flaps )
-Waistband strap
-Topstitching with twin needles
-Sewing threads ( Orange and Yellow )
-Pleats ( At the front)
SIZE DETAILS XS, S, M, L, XL 21
Specification Pack (2) Size Specification
Season: 2024 A/W
Style: Denim Jacket
Description: Men's Type 2 Washed Denim Jacket Date: 9/1/2023
B N 5 N 1 N 2 N 6 N 3 C 1 N 4 O I H C 2 P 2 K 2 K 1 P 1 J 1 Q 2 T 2 T 1 D 2 J 2 D 1 E L 2 L 1 L 3 M 1 M 3 M 2 M 4 R2 R1 S 2 S 1 A 2 A 1 F1 Q 1 F3 F2 G 22
Size Measurements – All measurements are in cm (Vanquish)
No Name Tolerances +/- XS S M L XL A1 Center Front Length 2 52 5 53 5 54 5 55 5 56 5 A2 Neck Drop 0 6 5 6 5 6 5 6 5 6 5 B Neck Opening 0.25 16 16.5 16.5 16.5 17 C1 Stand Collar Width 0.25 7.9 8.4 8.4 8.4 8.9 C2 Collar Width 0.25 8.5 8.75 9 9.25 9.5 D1 Shoulder Seam 1 5 11 7 12 2 13 7 15 2 16 7 D2 Shoulder point to point 1 39 41 43 45 47 E Armhole 2 43.8 45.8 47.8 49.8 51.8 F1 Sleeve Length 2 61 63 65 67 69 F2 Cuff Circumference 0.5 11.6 12.6 13.6 14.6 15.6 F3 Cuff Width 0.5 4 4.5 5 5.5 6 G Side Seam 1 32 9 33 9 34 9 35 9 36 9 H Chest 2 86 91 96 101 106 I Hem 2 70 75 80 85 90 J1 Placket Width 0.5 4 4.5 4.5 4.5 5 J2 Distance between two buttons 0 10.3 10.8 10.8 10.8 11.3 K1 Distance from Placket to Top of Pocket 0.5 2.9 3.4 3.4 3.4 3.9
23
No Name Tolerances +/- XS S M L XL K2 Distance from Placket to Bottom of Pocket 0.25 8.9 9.4 9.4 9.4 9.9 L1 Top Pocket Width 0.25 12 12.5 12.5 12.5 13 L2 Bottom Pocket Curve Width 0 25 12 3 12 8 12 8 12 8 13 3 L3 Pocket Length 0 25 12 2 12 7 12 7 12 7 13 2 M1 Top Pocket Flap Length 0.25 12.4 12.9 12.9 12.9 13.4 M2 Bottom Pocket Flap Curve Length 0.25 13.3 13.8 13.8 13.8 14.3 M3 Pocket Flap Width 0 12.9 12.9 12.9 12.9 12.9 M4 Distance between Flap and Pocket 0 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 N1 Center Front Yoke Width 0 25 11 8 12 3 12 8 13 2 13 7 N2 Center Back Yoke Width 0 25 9 9 10 4 10 9 11 4 11 9 N3 Center Front Yoke Width at Armhole 0.25 12.5 13 13.5 14 14.5 N4 Center Back Yoke Width at Armhole 0.25 7 8 8.3 8.8 9.3 9.8 N5 Center Front Yoke Length 0.25 30.6 31.1 31.6 32.1 32.6 N6 Center Back Yoke Length 0.25 38.4 38.9 39.4 39.9 40.4 O Hem Strap Width 0 5 5 5 5 5 P1 Center Back length (from Neck Drop to Hem) 2 58 59 60 61 62 Size
– All measurements are in cm (Vanquish) 24
Measurements
Size Measurements – All measurements are in cm (Vanquish)
No Name Tolerances +/- XS S M L XL P2 Center Back length (from High Point Shoulder) 1 58.6 59.6 60.6 61.6 62.6 Q1 Under Sleeve Length 2 46.1 47.1 48.1 49.1 50.1 Q2 Center Back Collar Width 0 25 7 9 8 4 8 4 8 4 8 9 R1 Sleeve Placket Width 0 1 8 1 8 1 8 1 8 1 8 R2 Sleeve Placket Length 0 5 15.5 16 16 16 16.5 S1 Waist Band Strap Width 0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 S2 Waist Band Strap Length 0 6.7 6.7 6.7 6.7 6.7 T1 Chest Pleat (Pleat Length) 0 5 35 9 36 4 36 9 37 4 37 9 T2 Chest Pleat (Pleat Width) 0 1 3 1 3 1 3 1 3 1 3
25
26
Specification Pack (3) Size Specification (Lay Plan)
Season: 2024 A/W
Style: Denim Jacket
Description: Men's Type 2 Washed Denim Jacket
Date: 9/1/2023
A1 A2 B1 B2 B3 C1 C2 C3 D E F1 F2 Pattern symbol Pattern name Quantity required A1 FRONT 2 A2 FRONT YOKE 2 B1 BACK 1 B2 SIDE YOKE 2 B3 BACK YOKE 1 C1 UPPER ARM 2 C2 UNDER ARM 2 C3 CUFF 2 D HEM STRAP 1 E COLLAR 1 F1 PATCH POCKET 1 F2 POCKET FLAP 1
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Specification
Season: 2024 A/W
Style: Denim Jacket
(4)
Description: Men's Type 2 Washed Denim Jacket
301 Lockstitch
301 Lockstitch & Hem finished by 516 overlocked
301 Lockstitch
301 Lockstitch
301 Lockstitch
304 Zigzag Lockstitch
A1 D1 A3 A4 A5 B1
C1
401 Two-thread Chainstitch
C2
401 Two-thread Chainstitch
304 Zigzag Lockstitch
Pack
Date: 9/1/2023 Construction B2 28
STITCHING DETAILS (VANQUISH)
Stitch type Placement Stitch length 301 Lockstitch (Red) A1, A2, A3, A4, A5 1 6mm, 6 stitches per cm 304 Zigzag Lockstitch (Blue) B1, B2 N/A 401 Two-thread Chainstitch (Purple) C1, C2 2 mm, 5 stitches per cm 516 (3-thread) (Green) D1 1 6mm, 6 stitches per cm Trim Type Placement Colour Quantity Brand label Inside and at the center under the bottom collar PANTONE 11-0601 TPG 1 Information label At the inside side seam PANTONE 11-0103 TPG 1 20 mm buttons Center front and Cuff (Left and Right), Left pocket, Waistband strap (Left and Right) PANTONE 19-0814 TPG 13 Sewing threads 700M Size tag Below and attached to brand label PANTONE 19-4007 TPG 1 Hanger loop Inside and in the middle of brand label and bottom collar PANTONE 19-0915 TPG 1 Waistband strap At the bottom back (Left and Right) PANTONE 18-4026 TPG 2
TRIM DETAIL (VANQUISH) PANTONE 15-1054 TPG PANTONE 14-0957 TPG At every other edges of the garment At every edges of Yokes and Placket 29
SEAM
SUPERIMPOSED SEAMS LAPPED SEAMS BOUND SEAMS
SSe (1.06.03)
LSe (1.22.01)
LSd (5.31.01)
LSc (2.04.06)
(3.01.01)
TYPE SEAM CODE DRAWING PLACEMENT SEAM WIDTH
Cuff
to
Sleeve to Bodice Shoulder Side Seam Front Placket Collar to Bodice Back yoke to Bodice 1.6cm 1.5cm 1.5cm 1.6cm 1.6cm 1.6cm 1.2cm 1.6cm 1.4cm 5cm Upper arm to Under arm 1.5cm 1.3cm 30
BSa
Collar edges Hem strap
Front yoke
Bodice Pocket Flap
Specification Pack (5) Bill of Materials
Season: 2024 A/W
Style: Denim Jacket
Description: Men's Type 2 Washed Denim Jacket
Total cost (per item) 12.3048 USD
Date: 9/1/2023
31
Specification Pack (6)
Season: 2024 A/W
Style: Denim Jacket
Description: Men's Type 2 Washed Denim Jacket
Date: 9/1/2023
Back images
Image
overview
Front image
32
Brand Label image
Button image
Information Label images
Information Label images
301 Stitch (Front view)
33
301 Stitch (Bottom view)
304 Stitch (Front view)
304 Stitch (Bottom view)
401 Stitch (Front view)
401 Stitch (Bottom view)
516 Stitch (Front view)
34
516 Stitch (Bottom view)
Quality Analysis
SUGARHILL VANQUISH
Color:
Color: Threads are made by 100% polyester
THREAD Golden Oak (the whole jacket)
Cadmium Yellow (yoke and placket)
Spectra Yellow (the whole jacket)
Threads are made by 100% polyester
FABRIC
SUGARHILL ORIGINAL DENIM 14oz (100% denim cotton)
100% cotton denim
DESIGN
This jacket from Sugarhill is a denim jacket reconstructed with 507XX. Triple pleats and elliptical stitching; The pockets are made of iconic wine glasses outside and inside. An impressive silhouette with a tailored sleeve in addition to the elbow patch extending from the cuffs The fabric is SUGARHILL ORIGINAL DENIM
14oz A wrap yarn is dyed indigo rope using a hard uneven shape of ice cotton as the main rice cotton as the main raw material, and a part where the production is originally used for the weft yarn is dyed in khaki. Because it doesn’t dye all the way to the core, the fabric bleeds quickly, but it is designed to create a deep vintage-like fade due to the weft dyed in khaki.
301: 1.6mm, 6 stitches per cm
304: N/A
401: 2mm, 5 stitches per cm
516: 1.6mm, 6 stitches per cm
This jacket from VANQUISH is a denim jacket, A second Denim jacket featuring two chest pockets and a slightly shorter Length There are also some trims on the jacket: button line, button on two cuffs, care label, brand information label, patch pocket in the front, sewing threads. There is a hole & one button found on two cuffs. There are pleats in the front Compared to the Sugarhill jacket, there are less trims on the jacket, and the stitches are less detail and sophisticated.
PRICE 55,000 ¥ (420.6 USD) 19,250 ¥ (147.25 USD)
Niche Mass Market
MARKET SEGMENT
STITCH TYPE 301, 304, 401, 516 301, 304, 401, 516 STITCH LENGTH 301: 1.5mm, 6 stitches per cm 304: N/A 401: 2mm, 5 stitches per cm 516: 1.5mm, 6 stitches per cm
35
FINISHING/OVERALL QUALITY
Overall, this jacket is unique because it is made by 100% of their own high-quality raw indigo denim cotton. There will be shrinkage (higher than normal denim) & colour fade if laundry this garment. Besides, this jacket has no stretchability and is expensive than other 100% cotton denim jackets because of their self-produced special textile. Therefore, this jacket is might not be suitable for customers who are finding cheap price or flexible textile of jacket. In addition, the stitches are strong and straight, which will maintain the jacket in good condition for a longer period of time and prevent it from wearing out Additionally, embellishments like buttons, pockets, cinch backs, and other details are firmly sewn onto the garment to prevent easy removal.
The fact that this jacket is constructed entirely of cotton makes it sturdy and appropriate for hot climates like Vietnam However, the jacket will readily wrinkle and shrink because cotton makes up a large portion of the fabric composition. The jacket won't wear out as quickly and will stay in good condition for a longer period of time thanks to the sturdy and straight topstitching.
EVALUATION
Sophisticatedly made with highquality fabric & details, the mentioned SUGARHILL ORIGINAL DENIM is durable, versatile and east to mix and match with other fashion items. Besides, this jacket has highquality, unique fabric and expensive price than normal denim jackets, which is 420.6 USD.
Because of its fabric composition, the aforementioned second type jacket has a generally good build quality and is pleasant to wear. by using processing to add deterioration, creates a vintage feel. It is simple to wear thanks to its design. Besides, this jacket has high-quality fabrics, charming pleats and more affordable price than Sugarhill denim jacket (147 25 USD) Additionally, this jacket is a basic piece that can be worn for a variety of events and is simple to pair with other pieces of clothing.
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Trend Analysis ( Denim jacket and Type 2 Denim jacket )
History of a denim jacket (Trotman n.d)
There have been several instances of workwear trends throughout the past century that, with the help of a practical, utilitarian design, have grown beyond their industrial foundations to become staples of modern fashion. Levi's denim jacket may be one of the most recognizable items, but it has also grown in popularity.
The denim jacket has evolved into a symbol of American sartorial history, one that stands for change, independence, and freedom. It is worn by ordinary people as well as greasers, cowboys, hippies, rock stars, and rappers.
F i g u r e 2 : W a l t e r L a t t a f i s h i n g a n d h u n t i n g g u i d e B o z e m a n , M o n t a n a A r t h u r R o t h s t e i n , J u n eJ u l y 1 9 3 9
Figure 1: Workers in full denim
Figure 3: People during the March on Washington for Jobs and Freedom, Washington DC, August 23, 1963
Figure 5: 1961 ,Marilyn Monroe in Denim Jacket
Figure 4: 1970 ,Veruschka in Denim Jacket
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Figure 6: 1971 , John Lennon in Denim Jacket
The evolution of the denim jacket
Over the course of forty years, six different types of the Type I were created. As the 1940s began, the design would be modified once more, removing extraneous details in an effort to conserve materials during World War II. However, it was also at this time that notable individuals and celebrities like Big Crosby and Robert Mitchum started to wear the jacket, giving it its first cool credentials of the rebel era. An all-denim "Canadian" tuxedo that Crosby ordered would solidify his love for Levi's. ( Trotman n.d )
The Type II jacket, which dominated from 1906 to 1952, was just a little improvement over the Type I, with the knife pleats and boxy fit remaining unchanged. The most significant additions were a second pocket and side tabs. ( Shuck 2016 )
Unquestionably one of the longest-lasting trends in contemporary fashion is the Trucker ( Or Type 3) jacket
The fact that virtually every other company that uses denim has adopted its pattern speaks volumes about how cleverly simple and adaptable it is
A lot of truth can be found in the old adage that good, timeless design truly never goes out of style because Levi's has consistently managed to reinvent one of its core products and keep it current. This includes switching out fabrics for collaborations, dismantling silhouettes for fashion-forward subsidiaries, or dipping into the seemingly endless archives for premium repro lines.( Trotman n.d)
Figure 7: Type 1 Denim Jacket
Figure 10: Type 2 Denim Jacket
Figure 11: Type 3 Denim Jacket
Figure 9:Robert Mitchum in Type 1
Figure 10 : Big Crosby in Type 1
Figure 12: Liam Gallagher in Type 3
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Figure 13: Kanye West in Type 3
The TYpe 2 denim jacket
In The Past
Only ranchers, miners, and labourers wore Type 2 Denim jackets in the 1940s. due to the extra pocket and the useful pleats, which are useful for those who operate in a certain profession. Additionally, the denim's stiffness and adaptability help them prevent workplace accidents.
Growing youthful subcultures and the expansion of the Rock & Roll music movement were mostly to blame for the shift in the cultural zeitgeist, and because to the promotion of the Type II by stars like Elvis Presley, its appeal expanded outside of the United States. The rebellious spirit of the era was best reflected by Martin Sheen's character in the legendary 1973 film Badlands, who spent the whole movie donning a damaged 507xx and a pair of matching 501s (Trotman n.d)
At that time, besides the 507xx form Levi’s there are also many legendry models such as the 1948 11MJ from Wrangler and 1930s-1940s Lee Cowboy.
Recently
On auction websites, originals can sell for several thousand dollars. Nigo, a streetwear pioneer, even worked with the company earlier this year on a reproduction of his own Type II, in all its shredded splendor. Streetwear pioneers James Jebbia and Nigo are widely known for their love of early Levi's products, notably the jackets. The prevalence of antique collectors, who frequently acquire Levi Strauss artifacts that even the brand itself is missing from their vaults, serves as another evidence of Japanese discernment towards Levi's.
Figure 14: Farmer on the Mescalero Apache Reservation, New Mexico Arthur Rothstein, Apr 1936
Figure 15: Mine foreman, Mogollon, New Mexico Russell Lee, June 1940
Figure 16: Elvis Presley in Type 2
Figure 17: Martin Sheen
Figure 18: Lee Cowboy
Figure 19: Wrangler 11MJ
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Figure 20: Nigo and His True Vintage Denim Jackets
Levi's also recreated its 1940s jacket; the reproduction line is known as Levi's Vintage Clothing. However, several fashion labels, particularly in the Japanese market, provide superior quality denim with minor fit adjustments to accommodate current trends. One of the largest businesses in Japan, Toyo Enterprise, is the parent company of several subsidiaries, including Sugar Cane, Dry Bones, Tenderloin, and others that specialize in the reproduction of antique apparel. It is important to mention the Osaka Five Denim (Full Count, Warehouse, Studio D'artisan, Denime, and Evisu), which offer the highest-quality Japanese denim available worldwide and may endure for decades.
In The Future
The blending of contemporary cutting and designs with vintage silhouettes. In 2024, the Type 2 model and other denim jackets will be essential pieces in every season's wardrobe. One such example is Sugar Hill, which features the classic type 2 507xx reconstruction, triple pleats, and elliptical stitching. The pockets are formed of the trademark wine glasses both inside and out. A striking cut with a tailored sleeve and elbow patch that protrudes from the cuffs.
Figure 21: Studio D'artisan Type 2 Jacket Figure 22: Sugar Cane Type 2 Jacket
Figure 23: Full Count Type 2 Jacket
Lookbook
Figure 24: Sugar Hill FW 2021
Figure 25: Sugar Hill FW 2021
Lookbook
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Figure 26: Sugar Hill FW 2021 Lookbook
Target Segment:
General customer information is grouped as follows based on the design and cost of two jackets:
Demographic:
Gender: Unisex
Age: 20-35 (MZ generation)
Income:
Sugarhill: The products prices range is from $21 to $2,294, the average of products is approximately $461. That means, main consumers can afford to pay for Sugarhill.
Vanquish: The products prices range is from $1 to $414, the average of products is about $97. It can be afford to not only high incomer also normal people like students.
Occupation: Beauty salon manager, hairdresser, dancer, hat shop clerk, bachelor and etc.
Martial status: Single, married
Psychographic:
1. Style:
Vintage workwear
Modern military
2. Value perception:
Own their original textiles (ombre plaid textile in 2020 S/S)
Texture, feelings and color
Different color, pitch and raw materials season by season
Casual & versatile
High end material, durable also fashionable
Geographic:
Region: Globally (Mainly Japan)
3. Interests:
Music
Arts
Japanese American workwear
Skateboard
Dance
Bike
4. Purchasing behavior:
Sugarhill have shops in both physical retail stores and online channels in four countries.
Vanquish have shops in both too, but only in Japan.
Want to try their own unique textiles. Have interests in Japanese style of American workwear
Climate: They produce S/S and F/W both. In the S/S collection, there are inners long/short sleeve shirts, long sleeves sweatshirts, knits, etc. And light outers for silly weather during spring such as cardigans, vests, denim jackets, blazers, leather jackets and etc. In the F/W collection, there are more outers than inner wear. For example, stadium jackets, flannel shirts, shearlings, blazers, field jackets, coat, denim jackets and etc.
Size of city: Big Cities (Usually in Japan, California of America, Moscow of Russia, Seoul of Korea)
Type of area: Only big city for the overseas, Urban & rural area on the Japan
Usage & Benefit:
Product benefits: Can try their own original textiles with quality texture (season by season they have released new textiles). Use a very strong fabric to prevent clothes from tearing easily.
End-use of products: Wear daily, special occasions
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Carbon footprint
The entire quantity of greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions that a person, event, organization, service, area, or product is accountable for is called their "carbon footprint" (CO2e). Release of greenhouse gases, including those containing carbon, such as carbon dioxide and methane, can occur as a result of burning fossil fuels, clearing land, producing and consuming food, manufactured goods, materials, and wood, as well as building and operating infrastructure and providing other services.
CARBON FOOTPRINT CALCULATION BASED ON MATERIALS
Environmental issues are brought on by the continuously expanding worldwide demand for clothing and textiles. Fashion manufacturers in poor nations take full advantage of lax environmental rules and little environmental awareness in order to accomplish low-cost production.
The second-largest industrial carbon emitters, accounting for 10% of global pollution, is the apparel industry, surpassing air transport emissions! When you examine the whole lifespan of a garment, from manufacture to shipping to, finally, ending up in landfills, the fashion sector generates 1.2 billion tonnes of carbon emissions annually. More things are being abandoned as a result of the idea that wearing anything just a few times is acceptable, which has driven overconsumption and overproduction. If this idea is to be disproved, the carbon footprint of the industry must be decreased. The amount of clothing produced more than doubled over the first fifteen years of the twenty-first century, and since 2000, the majority of European labels have transitioned from publishing two collections each year, for the summer.
The evidence to support each fiber's sustainability claims has received a lot of attention. A thorough investigation by Muthu (2012) found that some fibers have been quantified for their ecological significance and their life-cycle influence on the environment. Ten fibers were chosen for investigation using the Environmental Impact Index (EI) and Ecological Sustainability Index ( ESI).
Main fabric weight (g) Average CO2 emission (Kg of CO2) Total fabric emission (Kg) Vanquish 770g of Cotton 0,03 kg 23,1kg Sugarhill 1029g Cotton 0,03 kg 30,87kg
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These two readings reflect the correct condition that the fashion industry is affecting directly to the ecosystem of the Earth's ecosystem via water, energy, greenouse gas. This will help us enhance the importance of recycling the fabric, recycling our clothes, managing the life of the fashion product to improve our enduring fashion fashion fashion fashion fashion fashion fashion fashion fashion.
The denim jacket can indeed be broken down into three sections: cutting, sewing, and finishing, which together make up the three links in the advanced manufacturing production of carbon footprint. This division is based on the concept of industrial carbon footprint and takes into account the denim jacket production process chain. With the computation and analysis of the denim jacket's industrial carbon footprint. The findings indicate that during the process from cutting to sewing and finishing, denim jackets have a carbon footprint greater than 1000 kilograms Carbon dioxide. The stitching process produces a carbon footprint that is almost twice as great as the cutting process. Each denim jacket produces 1.75 kg of CO2 in carbon emissions.As a result, reducing the overall carbon footprint of denim apparel may be accomplished more effectively by simplifying the sewing process, utilizing highly energy-efficient processing equipment, and switching to renewable energy. (Yu Cheng and Hui-e Liang, 2021)
Fiber EI ESI Organic cotton 11 71 Flax 12 68 Commercial cotton 16 57 Viscose 19 49 Poluester 29.5 21 Nylon 6 30 20 Nylon 6.6 31 19 Polypropylene 34 10 Acrylic 38 0
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Due to the unique characteristics of the clothes, denim manufacture requires a great deal of energy and water, and the wastewater and exhaust gas have a significant environmental negative impact. (Yu Cheng and Hui-e Liang, 2021)
The environmental impact of manufacturing cotton denim jackets industrially, ignoring fabric and accessory manufacture As a result, the carbon emissions produced by the raw materials are not included in the computation scope. (Yu Cheng and Hui-e Liang, 2021)
The following carbon emissions are part of the life cycle:
Every production procedure
Production-related shipping and storing
Emissions from manufacturing facilities
All items made throughout the production procedure (including products, waste, waste gas and wastewater, etc.)
The fundamental steps in making a denim jacket usually involve dying, spinning, weaving, inspecting the fabric, preshrinking, cutting, stitching, washing, ironing, and packing. Time and spatial boundaries can be used to separate the computation boundaries for product carbon footprints. Time and spatial boundaries are used to calculate the carbon footprint of denim jackets in accordance with guidelines like PAS2050. The process chain from cutting, sewing, and packaging is used as the time boundary for determining the factory carbon footprint of denim jacket development, and the production input of water, electricity, steam, packaging materials, added substances, as well as other materials used in the chosen processing sector section serves as the space boundary. (Yu Cheng and Hui-e Liang, 2021)
1. 2 3. 4
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Figure 27 : The life cycle of textile products
Data gathering makes it impossible to identify the subsets of materials and components, such as emission levels of various raw constituent materials and emission factors of various accessories, etc., for the carbon pollution factors of all the materials used in the manufacturing of denim jackets or for a specific material As a consequence, the material's emission factor is the mean value of the data findings obtained under the conditions of a known material. (Yu Cheng and Hui-e Liang, 2021) The table below shows the emission factor for certain materials (fi/kgCO2e).
Conclusion: (Yu Cheng and Hui-e Liang, 2021)
(1) The power generation of the equipment, material consumption, and labor consumption make up the bulk of the industrial link's carbon emission model.
(2) The cutting, stitching, and overall manufacture of denim jackets produces more than 1000 kilograms Carbon dioxide in emissions of greenhouse gases. The stitching process produces the highest amount of carbon emissions, which is around double what the cutting process produces. Attempting to control the industrial carbon emissions of clothing throughout the sewing process is consequently the solution to lowering energy consumption and emissions in industrial manufacturing
(3) The calculation's findings show that the answer to cutting carbon emissions during the apparel sewing phase is to regulate the material, equipment selection, staff layout, and highefficiency and energy-saving processing facilities. The calculations' outcomes, to some extent, can serve as a benchmark for conservation of energy and reducing emissions during the manufacture of denim garments and serve as a point of contrast for further study and analysis.
Figure 28: Basic cotton denim jacket accounting boundary and input
Figure 29: Part of energy-related carbon emissions factors of production
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Reference lists
Carbon Literacy Project (5 January 2023) 'Fast Fashion’s Carbon Footprint - The Carbon Literacy Project', Carbon Literacy Project , accessed 5 January 2023, <https://carbonliteracy.com/fast-fashions-carbonfootprint/#:~:text=When%20factoring%20in%20the%20entire,the%20fashion%20ind ustry%20every%20year.>.
Muthu,S.S., et al,.2012. Quantification of environment impact and ecological sustainability for textile fibers.Ecol. Indicat. 13 (1), 66-74, handbook.
SHUCK, DS 2016, Type II Denim Jackets - Five Plus One, Heddels, viewed 7 January 2023, <https://www.heddels.com/2016/10/type-ii-denim-jackets-five-plus-one/>.
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Cheng, Y & Liang, H 2021, ‘Calculation and evaluation of industrial carbon footprint of cotton denim jacket’, Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, vol. 16, p. 155892502110203.
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� ������� ������ � ���� ����� on Instagram: ‘Farmer on the Mescalero Apache Reservation, New Mexico. Arthur Rothstein, Apr 1936 #vintagedenim #vintageworkwear
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Yu Cheng and Hui-e Liang (2021) The life cycle of textile products [Diagram], journals.sagepub, viewed on 7 Jan, 2023, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1177/15589250211020387#:~:text=The%20industri al%20carbon%20footprint%20of%20denim%20jacket%20within%20the%20accounting, %2C%20accounting%20for%20about%2026.7%25.
Yu Cheng and Hui-e Liang (2021) Basic cotton denim jacket accounting boundary and input [Diagram], journals.sagepub, viewed on 7 Jan, 2023, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1177/15589250211020387#:~:text=The%20industri al%20carbon%20footprint%20of%20denim%20jacket%20within%20the%20accounting, %2C%20accounting%20for%20about%2026.7%25.
Yu Cheng and Hui-e Liang (2021) Part of energy-related carbon emissions factors of production [Table], journals.sagepub, viewed on 7 Jan, 2023, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1177/15589250211020387#:~:text=The%20industri al%20carbon%20footprint%20of%20denim%20jacket%20within%20the%20accounting, %2C%20accounting%20for%20about%2026.7%25.
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