A chef who’s perfected more than pastry

By Susan N. Denaro, Esquire

Some food reviews are harder to write than others. It’s not that finding the right words proves difficult, it is more that some restaurant finds are so special I struggle with whether I truly want to share them with others. But when it comes to Bistro Barberet and Bakery, 26 E. King Street, Lancaster, PA, owned and operated by Cedric and Estelle Barberet, the secret may already be out.

A highly accomplished restauranteur and pastry chef, Cedric Barberet’s culinary skills have garnered him national and international attention. This past winter, the prestigious Academie Culinaire de France named Cedric Barberet an Honored Academicien. A few years prior, he was named a Chevalier de l’Order du Merite by the agriculture minister of the French government. In 2016, he was named one of the top 10 pastry chefs in the US by Dessert Professional Magazine. Prior to opening his own establishment, Barberet was an executive pastry chef for Philadelphia’s infamous Le Bec-Fin, and in 2005, he was the pastry chef at Mar-a-Lago where he eventually made the wedding cake for Donald and Melania Trump in 2005. Finally, in April 2020, he won the Food Network’s “Chopped Sweets” competition.

Despite all his award-winning pastry skills, what impressed me more was the fare served in his bistro. I only learned about this place from some likeminded foodie friends, and we tripped across the county line for lunch one sunny Friday to gauge his culinary skills for ourselves. I was smitten from my first bite of his Quenelle de Brochet appetizer. For the uninitiated, quenelles are pillowy fish cakes. Barberet’s version featured Gruyere cheese and fresh herbs in a shrimp Creole sauce. I was served my first quenelle in a four-star Michelin restaurant in the Loire Valley in 2001, my most memorable meal from that trip, but Barberet’s version surpasses it by every metric. While the addition of the cheese and the larger size and shape of his quenelles surprised me, compared to the traditional versions I’ve enjoyed elsewhere, the real stunner of the plate was the savory red sauce that perfectly showcased the delicate flavor of the fish; it is a must-have for anyone who enjoys fish.

If you like foie gras, another appetizer that should not be missed is the Terrine de Foie Gras, which is served with toasted brioche points and a smear of homemade berry jam. These three elements combined for the most decadent starter I’ve enjoyed in years; the good news is that there are slices of the terrine, jars of the jam, as well as loaves of the brioche available for carry-out in the pastry shop.

During that first visit, I devoured a chilled zucchini soup that was dotted with fresh herbs and pickled shallots; it was good to the last drop. When I returned for dinner about a week later, I inquired about another cup of it and was told that because it was a soup du jour there was no guarantee when it will appear on the menu again. Quelle dommage! That just means I will have to return again and again in search of it.

For dinner during my second visit, I was delighted by an entrée that boasted a smooth Jerusalem artichoke puree topped with a properly cooked salmon fillet and roasted Brussel sprouts. Julienned apples slices garnished the creation, and again, I was transcended by the delicate flavors back to another salmon dinner I enjoyed in a small bistro in Lemans during that same trip to France in 2001. Thanks to the perfect sear on this skinless piece of salmon in contrast to the cool crispness of the apple garnish, this dish was a stunner.

Because you can’t dine at such a renowned pastry chef’s restaurant without having dessert, we enjoyed his award-winning floating island. Barberet’s version of this olde time classic that was said to be a favorite dessert of French chef Julia Child, had a rich crème anglaise sauce that made one consider licking the plate clean. It was topped with crushed freeze-dried raspberries and a gorgeous spun sugar swirl that elevated it beyond expectation. It too was better than any version I remember eating before and is worth every calorie.

Aside from the food and atmosphere evoking memories of that long-ago sojourn to France, the true fun of dining in this bistro was being there with culinarily intrepid friends who all intentionally ordered something different, and by trading bites, we were able to sample more of menu items beyond our individual orders. From the beef tartare to the smoked salmon and the mussels with pommes frites to the risotto, each bite held an innovative twist on a French classic, reminding us that Cedric Barberet is more than just a genius with pastry.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that not only does Bistro Barberet have some reasonable prix fixe options that allow you to take your dessert home, it has a very inventive cocktail menu. If you like the flavor combination of anise and pear, the Ricard’s Star 13 will have you feeling like you’ve been transported to a sidewalk café on Paris’ left bank. If licorice is not your preferred flavor, there is a pineapple and raspberry-based French martini that is also lovely.

The other great thing about this Bistro is that you enter and exit through the pastry shop where proper croissants, perfect canelés, and other jewel-like desserts are all on sale for carry out. I have been known to complain that croissants with the right level of flakiness are not to be found in the States, but Barberet’s have made me thankfully eating my words. Do not leave without grabbing a few for breakfast the next day. I have to admit that after just those two visits, Bistro Barberet has replaced a few of my favorite regular haunts on my go-to list, but let’s try to keep this special place a secret just between us.