Chicago Greystone & Vintage Home Program Landscape Guidelines by Chicago Greystone & Vintage Home Program

L A N D S C A P E G U I D E L I N E Sa

IN ASSOCIATION WITH :

Neighborhood Housing Services of Chicago, Inc.

Â® THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES For maximizing the

CURB APPEAL of your CHICAGO GREYSTONE o r V I N TAG E H O M E and ADDING A LITTLE MORE

G R E E N , F R E S H , H E A LT H Y, W E L C O M I N G S P A C E T O O U R U R B A N E N V I R O N M E N T. This guide has been created to introduce important site considerations, design recommendations, and installation & maintenance advice to help you beautify your residential landscape.

Neighborhood Housing Services of Chicago, Inc. NEIGHBORHOOD HOUSING SERVICES OF CHICAGO IN ASSOCIATION WITH: CHRISTY WEBBER LANDSCAPES

Spring 2016

Neighborhood Housing Services of Chicago, Inc.

Taking a moment to think about the physical development of your Chicago neighborhood, or most any of our City’s neighborhoods, what do you generally find? A relatively neat grid of evenly spaced streets and avenues interrupted here and there by a diagonal street, the river, freight rail lines, or the ‘L’ tracks. Also there is likely a nearby commercial corridor and possibly a cluster of industrial buildings. Then, of course, there are wonderful vintage homes that, depending on when a neighborhood was developed, are predominately made up of one of Chicago’s four major housing types: workers’ cottages, greystones (our personal favorite), bungalows, and raised ranches. Finally, giving these blocks and neighborhoods an overall structure, is our City’s standard 25-foot wide by 125-foot deep residential lot – a typical footprint which affords our homes both highly visible street frontage and convenient rear alley access. In 2015, when the Chicago Greystone & Vintage Home Program ® partnered with Christy Webber Landscapes to develop our Landscape Guidelines, we set out to create a flexible homeowners’ resource adaptable to any vintage Chicago residential landscape. We begin with identifying commonalities found amongst most standard Chicago lots, generated precisely by their size and orientation relative to the City’s urban grid. From there we build upon concepts that encourage the thoughtful landscaping of our lots as an affordable way to express our personalities, to help keep our home interiors dry by keeping our building exteriors maintained, and simply to enhance our property’s curb appeal. Collectively, at a larger scale, our private landscapes in combination can also help us publically enhance our blocks and show a communal sense of place – a way of unifying through beautifying – to say this is “our shared community.” Much time and effort has gone into making these Landscape Guidelines as practical, accessible and user-friendly as possible. Christy Webber Landscapes has strived to make this guide an actionable resource for our homes and neighborhoods, not something to be tucked away on a shelf. From start to finish, we certainly hope that you will find this resource convenient, informative and easy to reference with your vintage home landscape projects. We hope that along the way you will share the progress and results of your gardening experiences with us. Chicago’s official motto is Urbs in Horto, a Latin phrase meaning “City in a Garden.” Let’s embrace this verdant ideal when planning our gardens and work together to strengthen our neighborhoods… one lot at a time. Happy gardening! Matt Cole Chicago Greystone & Vintage Home Program ® Neighborhood Housing Services of Chicago #NHSlandscapes

® THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

CONTENTS PRINCIPLES FOR LANDSCAPE DESIGN STRUCTURE HIERARCHY PROPORTION STYLE

6 8 10 12

SITE CONSIDERATIONS STEP 1 SUN & SHADE STEP 2 SOIL STEP 3 WATER

16 20 26

PLANT SELECTION

STEP 4 CHOOSE PLANTS THAT FIT YOUR SITE CONDITIONS SHADE PERENNIAL OPTIONS PART-SUN PERENNIAL OPTIONS FULL-SUN PERENNIAL OPTIONS DECIDUOUS SHRUB OPTIONS EVERGREEN SHRUB OPTIONS ORNAMENTAL TREE OPTIONS SPECIMEN PLANT OPTIONS ORNAMENTAL GRASS OPTIONS

30 34 40 46 52 54 56 58 60

MATERIALS AND HOW-TO

STEP 5 DETERMINING PLANT QUANTITIES

INSTALLATION AND CARE - MAINTAIN AND SUSTAIN STEP 6 PLANT & GARDEN CARE PESTS AMONG THE FLORA AND FAUNA SEASONAL GARDEN TASKS

68 74 80

DO IT YOURSELF

STEP 7 STEP-BY-STEP DESIGN TASKS EXAMPLE GARDEN DESIGN PROJECTS DESIGN YOUR OWN RETAIL RESOURCES AND WHERE TO BUY ABOUT THE AUTHORS SOURCES AND RESOURCES

84 88 96 98 100 105

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PRINCIPLES FOR LANDSCAPE DESIGN

STRUCTURE STRUCTURE is the source of organization that helps provide an ordered framework or context to a design. A good example of structure you experience everyday is the sequence or layout of rooms within your home.

There are a variety of ways to introduce structure into your home’s surrounding landscape, most simply by including the following elements in your design:

Pathways or Circulation Routes - ways to move within and through your garden Borders, Boundaries, or Edges - elements to guide and define areas within your garden Areas of Interest and Relaxation Space - planned destinations within your garden Focal Points or Special Features - interest pieces that invite one into your garden

Whether your landscape is designed within a ‘tight’ or ‘loose’ underlying order, your garden will naturally grow around these anchoring structural elements, maturing into a beautifully balanced outdoor living space.

® THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

BORDER RELAXATION SPACE SPECIAL FEATURE FOCAL POINT RELAXATION SPACE PATHWAY

A bold, colorful focal point with lush plantings along a pathway lead to a secluded relaxation space beyond.

A stone fire ring is a special feature centered within a relaxation space bounded by a garden wall border.

BORDER EDGES RELAXATION SPACE FOCAL POINT EDGES PATHWAY

PATHWAY

Various paving materials articulate a pathway and its edges, punctuated by an animated aquatic focal point.

A relaxation space is nestled amidst pathways and planted edges, tucked safely inside a privacy fence border.

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PRINCIPLES FOR LANDSCAPE DESIGN

HIERARCHY HIERARCHY generates spatial depth within a design, which visually and mentally draws a person toward the landscape, immediately piquing interest and providing spontaneous sensory immersion. A compelling experience of spatial depth can be made through the layering, grouping, and massing of plants - both horizontally and vertically.

Vertical Hierarchy within a garden pertains to both the physical height of the various types of plants on display, but also to their form, often referred to as growth habit. Horizontal Hierarchy is related to both a plantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s physical size in terms of its overall footprint on the ground, but also to the artful creation of dimensional relationships among plants - that is, through their spatial combinations.

Layering: arranging plants to create visual interest via placement across foreground, middle-ground and background

Grouping: using clusters of plants that require similar growing conditions, but have unique growth characteristics distinguished by their close proximity

Massing: filling in larger areas with a single plant type to make more bold, visually impactful gestures

Hierarchy can also be established seasonally, where bloom-times are synchronized for an endless, pleasurable display during all four seasons of the year.

ÂŽ THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

GROWTH HABITS

SPATIAL COMBINATIONS

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PRINCIPLES FOR LANDSCAPE DESIGN

PROPORTION PROPORTION is the most visibly evident garden design principle, and should be the over-arching guideline governing a gardenerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s creative decisions regardless of how small or large the size of their landscape project.

Proportion concerns the relative size, shape and scale among physical forms within a composition of elements. For example, compare the range of relationships shown between the specimen trees and the buildings illustrated on the opposite page. Good proportional relationships among features within a garden can make small spaces feel refreshingly large, while expansive spaces can feel more tamed and comfortable. Proportion is achieved through the mindful selection and orchestration of the relative size, scale and cyclical appearance of the various plants you choose to grow alongside one another. Successful planning with proportion in mind is more likely to result in a landscape that will perform better up to and into maturity, distinguishing your garden from one that is far less considered in its initial design.

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PROPORTION

DIMINUTIVE The house appears to loom over the front yard tree, which is proportionally outweighed by the massive building structure.

AGGRESSIVE The tree appears to reach upwardly and outwardly toward the house and passersby; seemingly poking and prodding the buildingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s facade and generally lacking a harmonious feel.

UNWIELDY The top-heavy tree out-scales the building, masking its form and ornamental beauty by generally crowding out any perceptual or actual sense of space, along with the opportunity to view the greater urban landscape.

BALANCED The tree height, spread, and overall form are comfortably scaled in relation to the building, drawing attention to the garden as well as complimenting the building facade.

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PRINCIPLES FOR LANDSCAPE DESIGN

STYLE STYLE is an important consideration in landscape design. It is a way to bring the gardeners personality and character into their outdoor living spaces. The principles of structure, hierarchy, and proportion should exist within a garden regardless of its style. Two of the most easily recognizable landscape design styles are Formal Design and Informal Design.

Formal Design is scripted, calculated, and purposeful. Evidence of the human hand at work is seen through constant pruning and shaping of plants. Design elements are organized through the use of repetition, symmetry, and easily recognizable patterns. Informal Design is improvisational, relaxed, and unceremonious. Design elements are still purposefully integrated, but in ways that mask the sign of a gardener’s touch. Areas and features within the garden are guided by the location and natural growth of plants. Formal and informal are on opposite ends of the design style spectrum, but there are many “middle-grounds” in between. Give yourself artistic license to blend these extremes to create a style that visually appeals to you and reflects your sensibilities.

® THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

DESIGN STYLE

STRUCTURE focal point

PROPORTION PROPORTION

relaxed

purposeful

HEIRARCHY

repetitious & calculated

STRUCTURE

surprising & improvised

symmetrical

FORMAL

INFORMAL

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PRINCIPLES FOR LANDSCAPE DESIGN

The do-it-yourself creative challenge may appear daunting at first, but applying the landscape design principles of

Establishing STRUCTURE within Your Landscape Creating Spatial HIERARCHY within Your Landscape Maintaining PROPORTION within Your Landscape

Choosing a STYLE that shapes Your Landscape

will put you on the right path. Following these guidelines will serve to provide years of healthy garden growth from initial planting through maturity. You will find endless opportunities for enjoyment, invention, and discovery within your urban garden.

Having introduced these basic principles of garden design, this guide will now focus on how to balance the natural resources your site has to offer with the optimal conditions that plants need to thrive.

Â® THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

PRINCIPLES APPLIED

DESIGN STYLE formal

PROPORTION scaled to frame the building

HEIRARCHY achieved through horizontal and vertical layering

STRUCTURE defined edges

DESIGN STYLE informal

PROPORTION right-sized with building; balanced

STRUCTURE HEIRARCHY

primary focal point

achieved through massing and grouping of shrubs

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STEP

SITE CONSIDERATIONS - SUN AND SHADE WALK YOUR SITE

Â® THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

It is common knowledge that each day the sun rises from the east, travels southward through the sky, and sets in the west. Consequently morning shadows are cast westward, traveling across your landscape as the day progresses, with evening shadows cast eastward as sunset approaches.

In Chicago, due to typical lot configurations, we often are left with part-sun / part-shade conditions. Taking a look at your buildingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s siting as well as the adjacent buildingsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; shadows will help you choose plants that suit the specific natural light conditions of your lot. For example, eastern-facing buildings receive morning sun in the front yards and shade in the rear yards. In the afternoon, sunlight is cast in the rear yards while shade is dominant in the front yards. There are also more unique conditions in Chicago on diagonal streets. For those residential lots which are oriented on a diagonal, the same sun principles apply, just at an angle!

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STEP

SITE CONSIDERATIONS - SUN AND SHADE DOCUMENT YOUR NATURAL LIGHTING CONDITIONS

The diagrams to the right illustrate how sun and shade conditions will change throughout a typical 24-hour day. The significance of March 20th to the 21st is that this date is the Spring equinox, where both night and daytime last about the same duration over this 24-hour period. During summer months, the sun is higher in the sky, causing shorter shadows. The inverse is true for winter months .

The best way to confirm your natural lighting conditions is to physically track the manner in which the sun falls across your residential landscape; ideally this should be done over the course of a full day during each of the four seasons. Start by drawing a simple diagram of your project area. Choose a day when you have time to go out every hour, starting first thing in the morning, and mark which areas have exposure to either sun or shade. Count the number of hours of sunlight that each area of your residential lot receives during the full-day period of observation to determine which natural conditions apply throughout the various zones of your landscape. Remember, the angle of the sun relative to the earthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surface changes with the seasons. Northern exposures become much shadier in the winter and southern exposures get much more sun in summer. Going so far as to check the hours of sun exposure that each area of your landscape receives every few months would result in an excellent understanding of the fluctuations in the amount of natural sunlight shed across your garden over the full course of a calendar year.

ÂŽ THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

8 AM - March 20th-21st

Sun is positioned low in the sky, casting light from the East and placing west-facing garden beds in shade for some or most of the morning.

NOON - March 20th-21st

Sun is positioned high in the sky, casting light from the South and naturally lighting nearly all garden areas that remain clear and open to the sky.

4 PM - March 20th-21st

Sun is positioned low in the sky, casting light from the West and now placing east-facing garden beds in shade for some or most of the afternoon.

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STEP

SITE CONSIDERATIONS - SOIL IDENTIFYING YOUR SOIL TYPE

Â® THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

SOIL TYPES SOIL TEXTURE

SOIL PROPERTIES

CLAY

STICKY

PERMEABILITY*: LOW WATER RETENTION: HIGH

SILT

SOFT, SILKY, FLOURY WHEN DRY. SMOOTH WHEN WET

PERMEABILITY: LOW WATER RETENTION: HIGH

SAND

GRITTY

PERMEABILITY: HIGH WATER RETENTION: LOW

SOIL TYPE

CLAY

SILT LOAM

SOFT, BALENCED, SMOOTH WHEN DRY, STICKY WHEN WET

PERMEABILITY: MEDIUM WATER RETENTION: MEDIUM

*PERMEABILITY: The ability of a substance to allow another substance to pass through it, especially the ability of a porous rock, sediment, or soil to transmit water through the voids and cracks that naturally exist within and between its particles. SAND

LOAM

SOIL CLASSIFICATION CHART

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STEP

SITE CONSIDERATIONS - SOIL TESTING YOUR SOIL TYPE

In Chicago there is a variety of naturally occurring soil types found throughout our Midwestern geographic region. Localized soil composition can also be heavily influenced by the work of humans whenever they develop a site, either by their introduction of proper backfill material or, in some less fortunate cases, nutrientpoor construction rubble. Having a basic understanding of the consistency of your soil will increase the chances of success in your garden. CLAY SOIL contains a high percentage of fine particles that cling together, holding water and nutrients. Clay soil is highly susceptible to compaction, which makes it difficult to work and for moisture and nutrients to reach plant roots. Identify clay soil by its slippery, sticky texture and its tendency to cling to gloves and garden tools. SILTY SOIL is composed of small particles that are typically very fertile, holding moisture, nutrients and plenty of air pockets. Silty soils can easily become over-saturated with water, and if compacted will lose their structure, becoming mud-like and slick. When wet, silty soil feels smooth and buttery to the touch; when dry, silt feels soft and powdery. SANDY SOIL is composed of larger, coarser particles. It drains quickly, but it is not effective at holding moisture or nutrients. This type of soil feels rough and does not hold together well. LOAM has a good balance of clay, silt, sand and organic material. It is the best type of soil for gardening, providing good drainage as well as retention of moisture and nutrients. Loam soil feels spongy and crumbly and is easy to work with over a wide range of moisture content. The simple tests illustrated on the following page will help you identify your soil composition.

ÂŽ THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

TEST YOUR SOILS BUCKET TEST

BOTTLE TEST

EXAMPLE

(1) Dig a hole 6 inches deep.

(1) Source an empty glass bottle and fill it half way with soil.

Total Soil Depth = 4” total in bottle Sand Depth = 1” total in bottle

(2) Fill the remainder of the bottle with water and add a drop of dish soap.

1” / 4” = 0.25 or 25% sand composition

(3) Watch the water drain. This test is based on identifying soil type by its water retention and permeability characteristics.

(3) SHAKE IT UP! Be sure that the soil completely mixes in with the water and dish soap.

If the water drains quickly, it is most likely a sandier soil. If the water drains very slowly, there is a higher percentage of clay in your soil.

(4) Set the bottle down and allow time for the suspended soil particles to fully settle. Sandy sediment will settle first, followed by Silt, and then Clay. You will notice distinct soil layers that stratify within the bottle.

(2) Fill it with a bucket of water.

Use the soil dug from the hole in the Bucket Test for the Bottle Test.

Once you calculate the percentage of Sand, Silt, and Clay material that has stratified within your bottle, refer to the SOIL CLASSIFICATION CHART on page 21 to determine your particular soil composition.

(5) Measure the total depth of soil in the bottle, and each individual layer of soil type, respectively. Use these measurements to determine the proportion of the soil types as shown in the following example.

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STEP

SITE CONSIDERATIONS - SOIL AMENDING THE SOIL ON YOUR SITE

Upon uncovering your existing soil composition via the simple bucket or bottle test methods, you can now take the appropriate action to improve your localized soil and associated drainage conditions where needed. A healthy and beautiful landscape begins from the ground up - donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t compromise the success of your future garden by neglecting to amend insufficient soils beforehand. Sandy soil will drain well, but if too sandy, it might not provide enough structure or nutrients to sustain plant life. On the opposite end of the spectrum, soil that has too much clay will hold water and may suffocate plants. Buried building debris from an earlier era of construction is essentially devoid of nutrients and will starve plants of the nourishment they need to survive. Such rubble should be completely removed and replaced with garden soil. A soil amendment is any material added to a soil to improve its physical properties, such as water infiltration, drainage, aeration and structure. The goal is to provide a better environment for your plants to flourish. To do its work, an amendment must be thoroughly mixed into the soil. There are two primary categories of soil amendments: organic and inorganic.

Organic amendments include sphagnum peat, wood chips, grass clippings, straw, compost and manure.

Inorganic amendments include vermiculite, perlite, pea gravel and sand.

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SOIL AMENDMENTS

When amending sandy soils, the goal is to increase the soil’s ability to hold moisture and store nutrients. To achieve this, use organic amendments that are well decomposed, like compost, peat, or aged manures. Because sandy soils have low water retention, choose an amendment with high water retention, like peat, compost or vermiculite. When amending clay soils, the goal is to improve soil composition, increase porosity and permeability, and improve aeration and drainage. Fibrous amendments like peat, wood chips, tree bark or straw are most effective in this situation. Clay soils have low permeability, so choose an amendment with high permeability, like composted wood chips, composted hardwood bark or perlite. AMENDMENT

AMENDMENT TYPE

PROPERTIES

PEAT

ORGANIC - FIBROUS

PERMEABILITY: LOW-MED WATER RETENTION: VERY HIGH

WOOD CHIPS*

ORGANIC - FIBROUS

PERMEABILITY: HIGH WATER RETENTION: LOW-MED

HARDWOOD BARK

ORGANIC - FIBROUS

PERMEABILITY: HIGH WATER RETENTION: LOW-MED

COMPOST

ORGANIC - HUMUS

PERMEABILITY: LOW-MED WATER RETENTION: MED-HIGH

AGED MANURE

ORGANIC - HUMUS

PERMEABILITY: LOW-MED WATER RETENTION: MED

VERMICULITE**

INORGANIC

PERMEABILITY: HIGH WATER RETENTION: HIGH

PERLITE

INORGANIC

PERMEABILITY: HIGH WATER RETENTION: HIGH

SAND

HARDWOOD

VERMICULITE

PEAT

COMPOST

PERLITE

*Sawdust is NOT recommended for use as a soil amendment; in general, the natural decomposition of wood products can tie up nitrogen in the soil. Microorganisms in the soil use nitrogen to break down wood. Nitrogen is also an essential nutrient for plant health. Thus, during this interim period of wood decomposition, soil nitrogen levels available for plant use are diminished since this resource is being ‘occupied’ with use by microorganisms. Sawdust is the most egregious form of wood in this context due to it’s inherently greater surface area in direct contact with the soil. ** Vermiculite is NOT a good choice for clay soils because of its high water retention properties.

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STEP

SITE CONSIDERATIONS - WATER PLANNING FOR WATERING YOUR PLANTS RESPONSIBLY

Â® THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

Chicago, like many older cities, faces significant environmental and flooding challenges due to its aging infrastructure. Stormwater and household waste water are routed into a combined sewer system, where the water is carried to a central processing station for treatment. During heavy storm events, a large portion of this water overflows, spilling out of the sewer system and flooding the city.

One way to help limit stress on our combined storm/sewer system is to contain stormwater run-off on site before it enters the infrastructure. This can be done by disconnecting your downspouts and using a rain barrel, as well as establishing strategically located rain gardens within your property. Before you begin, decide whether it is appropriate to disconnect your downspout(s). In a one-inch storm, a 1,000 square foot roof will catch 625 gallons of water. Consider where you are directing the stormwater. Your decision to disconnect your downspouts should offer a permanent solution which is beneficial to your plants. By municipal law, your stormwater discharge should not be directed onto your neighborsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; property. To avoid seepage into building foundations, land should slope away from the house. Stormwater should not be directed to flow over walkways as the water will freeze in cold weather and cause slippery conditions. If your downspout is located between houses, consider using an extension to guide the water to your front or rear yard. The downspout extension (or extension plus splash-block) should extend at least five feet away from the building foundations. The area surrounding the downspout should have enough permeable surface to soak up the volume of stormwater without causing localized flooding.

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STEP

STEP 1

STEP 2

SITE CONSIDERATIONS - WATER HOW TO DISCONNECT A DOWNSPOUT

A SECURE

CUT

C REMOVE

ATTACH ELBOW

CAP

B C

ATTACH EXTENSION

PLACE SPLASHBLOCK

STEP 3 STEP 1 & screws, STEPa2rubber STEP STEP 1 TOOLS: hacksaw, measuring tape, screw driver & pliers. MATERIALS: sheet metal bracket a downspout elbow, cap.2

A SECURE your downspout to the house with a metal bracket. Consult your local hardware store for the best non-corrosive fastener recommendations. When in doubt, use stainless steel fasteners.

B CUT downspout off to approximately 10” above the ground using a hack or saber saw. C REMOVE the bottom downspout length remaining between where you made your cut and the connection to the sewer standpipe. Recycle the downspout scrap metal, which is generally either aluminum, copper, or galvanized steel.

D ATTACH AN ELBOW made of the same kind of metal as your remaining downspout to avoid potential corrosion. Fit the elbow

to the outside diameter and insert the remaining downspout INTO the elbow (if you put the elbow into the downspout, it will leak at the joint between them.) Although a plastic elbow will be inert when in contact with metal, it may not be as aesthetically pleasing. Secure the elbow with sheet metal screws.

E CAP the sewer standpipe with a rubber cap. ATTACH THE EXTENSION by inserting it INTO the downspout elbow and secure with sheet metal screws. The required length

F of your extension will depend on your situation, but if your house has a basement, your downspout must drain at least five feet from your basement wall into your front or back yard. PLACE A SPLASHBLOCK at the end of the downspout extension to disperse the stormwater over a wider area and to prevent

G erosion. This will disperse and calm the impact that rushing water has as it exits your newly disconnected downspout. 28

® THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

RECAPTURE WATER WITH RAIN BARRELS Installation and Maintenance Rain barrels are relatively simple and inexpensive. They are commonly constructed of either plastic, wood, fiberglass, galvanized or stainless steel and are usually installed above ground. They are also usually opaque to prevent the exposure of stored water to sunlight, which decreases the growth of algae inside the barrel. When it comes to maintaining your rain collection system, no matter where it is located, there are certain initial and ongoing steps that should be practiced to keep your system operating properly. • • • • •

For safety and to minimize mosquito breeding, make sure that the collection system has a cover which adequately encloses the unit. Inspect gutters and downspouts to maintain a debris-free system. Regular cleanings will prevent blockage. Periodically flush debris from the bottom of the rain barrel. Inspect your system after a heavy rain to check for leaks, overflows or water pooling in inappropriate areas. Look for any occurrences of overflow and determine a plan for how to harvest this excess water.

Regularly check your gutters, downspouts, rain barrel water intake screen, mosquito screen and spigot for leaks, obstructions or debris. Also, confirm that the lid is secure so children and animals cannot fall into the rain barrel. Your rain barrel is designed to allow for overflow once it is full. Connect a hose to the overflow fitting to direct excess water away from your house. You can also connect a second rain barrel to the first one to double the amount of water captured before it overflows. Check on your rain barrel when it is raining to make sure the overflow is not causing flooding or flowing into your neighbor’s property. If your rain barrel is properly installed on a pervious surface, overflow water should be absorbed into the ground. Mosquito Prevention Your rain barrel should come with a mosquito-proof screen under the lid. When the mosquito netting is intact, there should be no gaps where mosquitoes can enter the barrel, thus keeping it mosquito-free. Remove accumulated water from the top of the barrel every 3 to 4 days during the rainy season. Mosquitoes need at least 4 days of standing water to develop larvae. If you believe mosquitoes may be breeding in your rain barrel, empty it completely and let it dry out to eliminate all sources of mosquito breeding grounds. Safety Rain barrels are for water collection and outdoor use only. Rainwater harvested from roofs may be contaminated and can contain animal and bird feces, windblown dust, pesticides and particles from pollution making it unsuitable for drinking. In short, DO NOT DRINK OR USE FOR BATHING! No other uses for your rain barrel water are recommended. Winterizing Winterize your rain barrel system when temperatures are below 40° F by completely draining the barrel. If storing outside, be sure to turn the barrel upside down and place a heavy object on top to keep the vessel from blowing away. Emptied rain barrels can also be stored in a shed, garage or basement during the winter months. Either way, when you plan to store it, drain your rain barrel before temperatures drop below freezing and keep the spigot open in the winter so water does not accumulate and freeze within. NEIGHBORHOOD HOUSING SERVICES OF CHICAGO IN ASSOCIATION WITH: CHRISTY WEBBER LANDSCAPES

STEP

PLANT SELECTION CHOOSE PLANTS THAT FIT YOUR SITE CONDITIONS

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NATIONAL USDA HARDINESS ZONE MAP

5a 5b

6a 6b

Illinois

USDA Hardiness Zones are important for gardeners to keep in mind as they choose plant material. The zones are defined by the Average Annual Extreme Minimum Temperature, which is the coldest temperature range your region reaches throughout the winter season. Regions are designated alpha-numerically in 5-degree Fahrenheit (F) increments. For example, 4b is 5 degrees warmer than 4a, which is 5 degrees warmer than 3b and so on. Northern Illinois is reliably Zone 5. Due to Chicagoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique urban conditions and location near Lake Michigan, the City is typically warmer than the rest of the region. The USDA recently reclassified Chicago as Zone 6a as a consequence of warming trends experienced nationwide. When sourcing plant material for your garden, be mindful in selecting plants that are suitable for your location. Since your hardiness zone reflects the lowest extreme winter temperature range under which a given plant can survive, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always safer to select a lower-number zoned plant to favor survivability. For example, a Zone 4a plant will thrive in our Zone 6a; conversely, a Zone 6a plant will not survive a Zone 4a winter.

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STEP

PLANT SELECTION CHOOSE PLANTS THAT FIT YOUR SITE CONDITIONS

Your gardening life can be made a lot easier by wisely choosing the right plants for each area of your garden. This best practice is known as “right plant, right place.” The spirit behind right plant, right place is to select plants which are well matched to the natural growing conditions inherently found throughout your landscape. By doing so, your plants will perform beautifully with limited additional input and cultivation from you. Plants that are well suited to their site will take root quickly, establish a strong cellular structure above and below ground, and will generally mature overall to be healthier plants. Healthy plants are far better equipped to withstand environmental problems than those which are struggling to grow within an incompatible microclimate. There is a vast array of plant types available to you. Here are several that will be introduced in these guidelines. PERENNIALS are relatively small plants that lack woody tissue. They will bloom during spring or summer, go dormant in the winter, and return the following season. DECIDUOUS SHRUBS are mid-sized plants with woody branches and stems that will shed their leaves seasonally. EVERGREEN SHRUBS retain their leaves and green color all year round. ORNAMENTAL TREES are grown for their decorative form or texture. These trees provide multi-seasonal sensory enjoyment and can be deciduous (lose their leaves) or evergreen. SPECIMEN PLANTS are the show-stoppers of your garden. These plants draw attention and should be incorporated sparingly yet tastefully in your garden. Specimen plants can be deciduous or evergreen. ORNAMENTAL GRASSES add texture, color, and movement to the garden. They are usually perennial in nature, change with the seasons and add year-round interest. 32

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READING YOUR PLANT TAGS

READING PLANT INFORMATION IN THESE GUIDELINES Refer to Pages 34-61 for Plant Suggestions PERENNIAL PLANT LEGEND Image of Plant (when looking it’s best) Month(s) When In Bloom March - M April - A May - M June - J July - J August - A September - S October - O

Aquilegia canadensis Wild Columbine

Botanical Name Common Name

SHRUB AND TREE LEGEND Detailed Image of Plant

When purchasing plants, each container should include a plant tag. Detailed information regarding the physical characteristics and environmental requirements for ideal plant growth is displayed on the tag.

Image of Plant

These include optimal hours of daily sun exposure, routine watering needs, preferred soil type and drainage requirements, size at full maturity, expected growth rate and form, anticipated flowering time and survivability based on USDA hardiness zone.

Botanical Name Common Name Growth Habit and Mature Size

These tags help gardeners make wise choices when selecting plant material to best fit their pre-existing, naturally occurring site conditions.

Full Sun Part Sun / Part Shade Shade

Rhododendron ‘PJM Elite’ Rhododendron Height: 3-4 ft Width: 6-8 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Habit: Rounded

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STEP

SHADE PERENNIAL OPTIONS: LESS THAN 4 HOURS / DAY CHOOSE PLANTS THAT FIT YOUR SITE CONDITIONS

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Full Shade is defined as natural lighting conditions that provide less than 4 hours of direct sun each day. Full shade plants prefer little to no direct sun. They like less than 4 hours of direct sun a day and prefer morning and evening sun over the intensity of mid-day sun. Full shade plants should also perform outstandingly in areas of your garden where constant dappled shade conditions predominate. Dappled shade refers to areas where there is simultaneously a mixture of sun and shade, generally because a deciduous tree is nearby or overhead. Dappled shade is also similar to partial shade. Plants classified in this category are commonly found in the wild as natives to natural woodland areas and will do best with little to no full sun exposure, regardless of the time of day. In more urban locations, an area that will be shaded by a fence or wall will need to get sufficient combined hours of sun in either morning or evening for these types of plants to do well there. Full shade does not refer to dark places devoid of any sun whatsoever; all plants need at least some exposure to light in order to survive. Deep shade is an area where even indirect light rarely penetrates. If you have buildings or other barriers blocking the sun for the better part of the day, these deeply shaded zones will be the most challenging though not entirely impossible - to plant successfully. Most shade tolerant plants are very adaptable when it comes to the degree of shade they prefer. You will quickly know if you have guessed wrong when you heed the signs of plant stress. If they start looking weak and spindly, then there is not enough light. If their leaves crisp or curl or start looking bleached or browned, and you find yourself having to water way too frequently, then there is too much sun. In the high heat of the summer, even brief exposure to direct morning or late afternoon sun can be too much for extreme shadeloving plants to handle. If you see these signs of plant struggle, simply transplant them to a more optimal location and try an alternative that is better suited to the original spot. Refer to SITE CONSIDERATIONS - SUN AND SHADE on pages 18 and 19 for how to document your natural lighting conditions before attempting to choose your plant material.

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SHADE PERENNIALS BLUE

GREEN

YELLOW

3”-6”

PURPLE

Vinca minor ‘Dart’s Blue’ Dart’s Blue Periwinkle

Hedera helix ‘wilsonii’ English Ivy

Lamium galeobdolon ‘Florentinum’ Yellow Archangel

6”-12”

Ajuga reptans ‘Bronze Beauty’ Carpet Bugle

Ajuga tenorii ‘Dixie Chip’ Bugleweed

Pachysandra terminalis ‘Green Carpet’

Heuchera ‘Tiramisu’ Coral Bells

12”-18”

Vinca minor ‘Atropurpurea’ Purple Periwinkle

Astilbe chinensis ‘Visions’

Pulmonaria ‘Trevi Fountain’ Lungwort

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Athyrium niponicum ‘Pictum’ Japanese Painted Fern

Epimedium ‘Sulphureum’ Barrenwort

SHADE PERENNIALS RED

PINK

WHITE

3”-6”

ORANGE

Epimedium x rubrum Red Barrenwort

Geranium cinereum ‘Ballerina’ Ballerina Cranesbill

Galium odoratum Sweet Woodruff

6”-12”

Heuchera ‘Cinnamon Curls’ Coral Bells

Pulmonaria ‘Raspberry Splash’ Raspberry Splash Lungwort

Lamium maculatum ‘Chequers’ Creeping Lamium

Convallaria majalis Lily of the Valley

12”-18”

Heuchera ‘Creme Brulee’ Coral Bells

Heuchera ‘Caramel’ Coral Bells

Bergenia cordifolia ‘Winter Glow’ Pigsqueak

Astilbe chinensis ‘Vision in Pink’

Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’ Siberian Bugloss

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SHADE PERENNIALS BLUE

GREEN

YELLOW

18”-30”

PURPLE

Hosta ‘Blue Angel’ Blue Angel Plantain Lily

Athyrium filix-femina ‘Lady in Red’ Northern Lady Fern

Ligularia dentata ‘Othello’

30”-48”

Tricyrtis hirta ‘Tojen’ Toad Lily

Hosta ‘Elegans’ Elegans Plantain Lily

Matteuccia struthiopteris Ostrich Fern

Kirengeshoma palmata Yellow Wax Bells

48”-+

Aconitum fischeri Fischeri’s Monkshood

Actaea simplex ‘Brunette’ Bugbane 38

Thalictrum ‘Elin’ Blue Meadow Rue

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Aruncus dioicus Goat’s Beard

Ligularia stenocephala ‘The Rocket’ Rocket Ligularia

SHADE PERENNIALS RED

PINK

WHITE

18”-30”

ORANGE

Astilbe x arendsii ‘Fanal’ Fanal False Spirea

Geranium maculatum Wild Geranium

Anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’ Windflower

30”-48”

Dryopteris erythrosora ‘Brilliance’ Brilliance Autumn Fern

Heuchera ‘Sweet tea’ Coral Bells

Astilbe chinensis ‘Purpurkerze’ Chinese False Spirea

Aralia cordata ‘Sun King’ Japanese Spikenard

48”-+

Aquilegia canadensis Wild Columbine

Osmunda cinnamomea Cinnamon Fern

Scrophularia marilandica Late Figwort

Cimicifuga racemosa ‘Pink Spike’ Snakeroot

Rodgersia aesculifolia Fingerleaf Rodgersia

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STEP

PART-SUN PERENNIAL OPTIONS: 4-6 HOURS / DAY CHOOSE PLANTS THAT FIT YOUR SITE CONDITIONS

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Partial Sun is defined as natural lighting conditions that provide 4 to 6 hours of direct sun each day. Partial sun and partial shade plants are probably the most confusing category to determine. The two terms are fairly interchangeable. These types of plants prefer 4 to 6 hours of sun a day and would be happiest getting their sun mostly in the morning or evening with shade provided throughout the middle portion of the day.

If a plant is described to be partial sun, then the emphasis is on making sure the plant gets at least 4 hours of direct sun a day.

If a plant is described as partial shade, then greater emphasis is placed on the plant getting no more than 6 hours of direct sun.

When a plant tag lists “part sun”, the grower is stressing that the plant requires at least four hours of sun and will likely do better with closer to six full hours. When a plant tag lists “part shade”, the grower is stressing that the plant should not receive more than six hours of sun and will likely do better with less. Because these terms are used interchangeably, often you’ll see a plant tag indicating “part shade to shade” or “full to partial sun.” If ultimately you are finding that you are more confused than clear on what a plant tag is attempting to tell you, don’t hesitate to consult the knowledgeable staff at your local garden center. Look no further than to an independent retailer in your area for the most likely place to find the expert with the clarity you are seeking. When it comes to understanding sunlight needs of the various plants within this admittedly confusing category, allow yourself some room for trial and error. First, try growing a few plant varieties within a small test area of your garden before committing to install a large quantity of one kind that may eventually fail to perform. While this may prolong your design process over a growing season or two, it is a more cost-effective way to discover those plants that can beautifully capitalize on the natural light falling effortlessly across your urban landscape. Refer to SITE CONSIDERATIONS - SUN AND SHADE on pages 18 and 19 for how to document your natural lighting conditions before attempting to choose your plant material.

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PART-SUN PERENNIALS BLUE

GREEN

YELLOW

3”-6”

PURPLE

Isotoma fluviatilis Blue Star Creeper

Leptinella squalida ‘Platt’s Black’ Brass Buttons

Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’ Creeping Jenny

6”-12”

Mazus reptans Creeping Mazus

Campanula poscharskyana Serbian Bellflower

Hosta ‘Blue Mouse Ears’ Blue Mouse Ears Plantain Lily

Geum ‘Limoncello’ Limoncello Geum

12”-18”

Monarda didyma ‘Pardon My Purple’ Purple Bee Balm

Geranium ‘Gerwat’ Cranesbill 42

Amsonia ‘Blue Ice’ Blue Star

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Hosta ‘August Moon’ August Moon Plantain Lily

Alchemilla mollis Lady’s Mantle

PART-SUN PERENNIALS RED

PINK

WHITE

3”-6”

ORANGE

Heuchera sanguinea ‘Firefly’ Coral Bells

Geranium x cantabrigiense ‘Biokovo’ Hardy Geranium

Chamamelum nobile Creeping Chamaemelum

6”-12”

Heuchera ‘Peach Melba’ Coral Bells

Heuchera ‘Hollywood’ Coral Bells

Tiarella ‘Pink Skyrocket’ Pink Skyrocket Foam Flower

Lamium maculatum ‘White Nancy’ Spotted Deadnettle

12”-18”

Heuchera ‘Peach Flambe’ Coral Bells

Heuchera ‘Georgia Peach’ Coral Bells

Astilbe chinensis ‘Vision In Red’ Red Chinese False Spirea

Heuchera ‘Berry Smoothie’ Coral Bells

Pulmonaria officinalis ‘Sissinghurst White’ Lungwort

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PART-SUN PERENNIALS BLUE

GREEN

YELLOW

18”-30”

PURPLE

Platycodon grandiflorus Balloon Flower

Hosta ‘Coast-to-Coast’ Coast-to-Coast Plantain Lily

Hypericum kalmianum ‘Ames’ Kalm’s St. John’s Wort

30”-48”

Veronica ‘Hocus Pocus’ Speedwell

Agastache ‘Blue Fortune’ Anise Hyssop

Athyrium x hybrida ‘Ghost’ Ghost Fern

Ligularia dentata ‘Britt-Marie Crawford’

48”-+

Monarda fistulosa Wild Bergamot

Eupatorium purpureum Purple Joe Pye Weed

Delphinium elatum ‘Pacific Giants’ Giant Blue Larkspur

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Osmunda regalis Royal Fern

Iridaceae pseudacous Yellow Flag Iris

PART-SUN PERENNIALS RED

PINK

WHITE

18”-30”

ORANGE

Astilbe japonica ‘Montgomery’ Montgomery False Spirea

Astilbe ‘Maggie Daley’ Maggie Daley False Spirea

Anemone canadensis Meadow Anemone

30”-48”

Lilium asiatic ‘Brunello’ Asiatic Lily

Anemone x hybrida ‘September Charm’ September Charm Anemone

Lobelia cardinalis Cardinal Flower

Ageratina altissima ‘Chocolate’ Chocolate Snakeroot

48”-+

Osmunda cinnamomea Cinnamon Fern

Baptisia decadence ‘Cherries Jubilee’ False Indigo

Monarda didyma ‘Jacob Cline’ Jacob Cline Bee Balm

Chelone lyonii ‘Hot Lips’ Pink Turtlehead

Actaea simplex ‘Brunette’ Black Bugbane

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STEP

FULL-SUN PERENNIAL OPTIONS: 6+ HOURS / DAY CHOOSE PLANTS THAT FIT YOUR SITE CONDITIONS

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Full-Sun is defined as natural lighting conditions that provide more than 6 hours of direct sun each day. Full-sun plants like bright, daylighted areas. Many full-sun plants will be perfectly happy with sun exposure for 6-plus hours a day, every day. Once the summer temperatures rise and the ground seasonally heats up, full-sun plants can, however, benefit from some relief under the sun’s intensity via afternoon shade. Full-sun simply means at least 6 full hours of direct sunlight per day. Those six hours can be from 8am – 2pm or 12 noon – 6pm; in other words, the required duration of exposure can happen anytime throughout the day. These total hours can also be divided into three morning hours plus three afternoon hours with mid-day shade falling in between. For plants of this type to perform as expected, the duration of the sun’s exposure doesn’t have to be continuous. As long as when the sun is shining, it is casting direct, unimpeded sun rays upon the locations within your garden where these sun-lovers reside, they should thrive. Another important note regarding the overall appearance of full-sun plants: generally speaking, when they flower, the more sunlight they receive, the more blossoms they will produce. Similarly, as they take root and grow throughout the season, those more uniformly lit will mature more symmetrically and plentifully versus developing somewhat lopsidedly from literally having to reach for the sun. In the latter instance, branches or stems will be more prone to forming asymmetrically, favoring growth toward the side which provides the more generous amount sunlight. For example, a lilac shrub fully sunlit ‘in the round’ will have an overall greater balance and abundance of bloom coverage than the exact same of its kind, which may only receive its minimal six-hour daily dose. The more evenly lighted lilac will also have more profuse, denser branching, whereas its counterpart, within its less sunny context, will appear comparatively more open and airy in its established form and stature. Refer to SITE CONSIDERATIONS - SUN AND SHADE on pages 18 and 19 for how to document your natural lighting conditions before attempting to choose your plant material.

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FULL-SUN PERENNIALS BLUE

GREEN

YELLOW

3”-6”

PURPLE

Phlox subulata ‘Emerald Blue’ Blue Creeping Phlox

Sagina subulata Irish Moss

Sedum acre Acre Stonecrop

6”-12”

Phlox subulata ‘Purple Beauty’ Purple Moss Phlox

Myosotis sylvatica ‘Victoria Blue’ Forget Me Not

Euonymus fortunei ‘Coloratus’ Purple Wintercreeper

Delosperma nubigenum Yellow Ice Plant

12”-18”

Delosperma cooperi Purple Ice Plant

Nepeta x faassenii ‘Walker’s Low’ Walker’s Low Catmint 48

Platycodon grandiflorous Balloon Flower

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Stachys byzantina ‘Silver Carpet’ Lamb’s Ears

Coreopsis pubescens ‘Sunshine Superman’ Tickseed

FULL-SUN PERENNIALS RED

PINK

WHITE

3”-6”

ORANGE

Sedum spurium ‘Dragon’s Blood’ Dragon’s Blood Stonecrop

Thymus citriodorus ‘Doone Valley’ Doone Valley Thyme

Mazus reptans ‘albus’ White Creeping Mazus

6”-12”

Geum coccineum ‘Eos’ Dwarf Orange Avens

Fragaria x ‘Lipstick’ Ornamental Strawberry

Iberis sempervirens Candytuft

Dianthus ‘Firewitch’ Firewitch Cheddar Pinks

12”-18”

Geum ‘Mai Tai’ Mai Tai Geum

Achillea millefolium ‘Walther Funcke’ Hemerocallis ‘Chicago Apache’ Walter Funcke Yarrow Daylily

Allium ‘Summer Beauty’ Summer Beauty Onion

Leucanthemum x superbum Shasta Daisy

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FULL-SUN PERENNIALS BLUE

GREEN

YELLOW

18”-30”

PURPLE

Penstemon ‘Delft Blue Riding Hood’ Blue Riding Hood Beardtongue

Equisetum Horsetail

Baptisia ‘Solar Flare’ False Indigo

30”-48”

Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’

Eryngium yuccifolium Rattlesnake Master

Lobelia siphilitica Great Blue Lobelia

Helenium autumnale Sneezeweed

48”-+

Veronia fasciculata Ironweed

Eupatorium purpureum Purple Joe Pye Weed 50

Amsonia hubrichtii Narrow Leaf Blue Star

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Rodgersia aesculifolia Fingerleaf Rodgersia

Heliopsis helianthoides ‘False Sunflower’ Ox Eye Sunflower

FULL-SUN PERENNIALS RED

PINK

WHITE

18”-30”

ORANGE

Ratibida columnifera ‘Red Midget’ Upright Prairie Coneflower

Stachys officinalis ‘Hummelo’

Calamintha nepeta Lesser Calamint

30”-48”

Kniphofia uvaria ‘Red Hot Poker’ Flamenco Red Hot Poker

Penstemon ‘Red Riding Hood’ Red Riding Hood Beardtongue

Lythrum alatum Winged Loosestrife

Liatris scariosa ‘Alba’ White Blazing Star

(non-invasive Illinois native)

48”-+

Echinacea ‘Tiki Torch’ Tiki Torch Coneflower

Lilium michiganense Michigan Lily

Monarda didyma ‘Jacob Cline’ Jacob Cline Bee Balm

Physostegia virginia Obedient Plant

Asclepias incarnata ‘Ice Ballet’ Swamp Milkweed

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STEP

DECIDUOUS SHRUB OPTIONS CHOOSE PLANTS THAT FIT YOUR SITE CONDITIONS

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DECIDUOUS SHRUBS

Viburnum dentatum Cornus sericea‘ Cardinal’ Cornus sericea ‘Flaviramea’ Viburnum trilobum Yellow Twig Dogwood American Cranberrybush ‘Christom’ Blue Muffin Cardinal Dogwood Height: 8-12 ft Width: 4-6 ft Soil: Moist Bloom Time: June

Hydrangea quercifolia Oakleaf Hydrangea Height: 4-6 ft Width: 4-6 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: May-July

Height: 5-6 ft Width: 5-6 ft Soil: Moist Bloom Time: May-June

Rosa ‘Radtko’ Double Knockout Rose Height: 3-4 ft Width: 3-4 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: May-August

Height: 8-12 ft Width: 8-12 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: May

Deutzia gracilis ‘Nikko’ Deutzia Height: 1.5-2 ft Width: 4-6 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: April-May

Height: 3-5 ft Width: 3-4 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: May-June

Spirea betulifolia ‘Tor’ Birtchleaf Spirea Height: 3-4 ft Width: 3-4 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: May-June

Lespedeza thunbergii Bush Clover Height: 4-5 ft Width: 4-10 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: August

Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’ Dwarf Korean Lilac Height: 4-6 ft Width: 6-8 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: May

Diervilla lonicera Dwarf Bush Honeysuckle Height: 2-3 ft Width: 2-4 ft Soil:Well Drained Bloom Time: June-July

Fothergilla gardenii Dwarf Fothergilla Height: 1-3 ft Width: 2-4 ft Soil: Well Drained Bloom Time: April

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STEP

EVERGREEN SHRUB OPTIONS CHOOSE PLANTS THAT FIT YOUR SITE CONDITIONS

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EVERGREEN SHRUBS

Juniperus horizontalis ‘Blue Chip’ Blue Chip Juniper Height: 6-12 in Width: 6-8 ft Soil: Dry Habit: Spreading

Buxus x ‘Green Velvet’ Green Velvet Boxwood Height: 4-6 ft Width: 3-4 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Habit: Rounded

Juniperus virginiana ‘Grey Owl’ Grey Owl Juniper Height: 2-3 ft Width: 4-6 ft Soil: Dry Habit: Spreading

Pinus mugo var. pumilio Dwarf Mugo Pine Height: 4-6 ft Width: 6-8 ft Soil: Dry Habit: Rounded

Thuja occidentalis ‘Yellow Ribbon’ Dwarf Arborvitae Height: 8-10 ft Width: 2-3 ft Soil: Dry Habit: Pyramidal

Taxus x media ‘Hicksii’ Hicks Yew Height: 12-15 ft Width: 8-12 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Habit: Upright

Picea pungens ‘Glauca Globosa’ Globe Blue Spruce Height: 3-4 ft Width: 4-6 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Habit: Mounding

Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Golden Mop’ Japanese False Cypress Height: 3-5 ft Width: 3-5 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Habit: Mounding

Thuja occidentalis ‘Congabe’ Firechief Arborvitae Height: 2-4 ft Width: 2-4 ft Soil: Moist Habit: Rounded

Rhododendron ‘PJM Elite’ Rhododendron Height: 3-4 ft Width: 6-8 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Habit: Rounded

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STEP

ORNAMENTAL TREE OPTIONS CHOOSE PLANTS THAT FIT YOUR SITE CONDITIONS

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ORNAMENTAL TREES Prunus virginiana ‘Schubert’ Canada Red Chokecherry

Amelanchier grandiflora ‘Autumn Brilliance’ Apple Serviceberry

Fruit

Bloom Height: 20-30 ft Width: 15-20 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: April - May

Syringa reticulata ‘Ivory Silk’ Japanese Tree Lilac

Fall Color

Flowers Height: 20-25 ft Width: 15-20 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: May - June

Betula nigra ‘Dura-Heat’ Dura-Heat River Birch

Bloom

Fruit Height: 15-25 ft Width: 15-25 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: April - May

Cercis canadensis Eastern Redbud

Crataegus viridis ‘Winter King’ Green Hawthorn

Catkin & Stem

Bark Height: 30-40 ft Width: 25-35 ft Soil: Moist Bloom Time: April - May

Bloom Height: 20-30 ft Width: 25-35 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: April - May

Flowers Height: 25-35 ft Width: 25-35 ft Soil: Dry Bloom Time: May

Malus x ‘Prairifire’ Prairifire Crabapple

Cornus kousa Kousa Dogwood

Flowers

Fall Color

Flowers

Fruit Height: 15-30 ft Width: 15-30 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: May - June

Fall Color

Bloom Height: 15-20 ft Width: 15-20 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: April - May

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STEP

SPECIMEN PLANT OPTIONS CHOOSE PLANTS THAT FIT YOUR SITE CONDITIONS

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SPECIMEN PLANTS

Hamamelis virginiana Common Witch Hazel Height: 15-20 ft Width: 15-20 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: Oct - Dec

Picea abies ‘Pendula’ Weeping Norway Spruce Height: 4-15 ft Width: 4-15 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Habit: Weeping

Cotinus coggygria ‘Ancot’ ‘Golden Spirit’ Smoketree Height: 8-15 ft Width: 8-15 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: May - July

Prunus x ‘Snofozam’ Weeping Cherry Height: 8-15 ft Width: 6-8 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: April - May

Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’ Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick Height: 8-10 ft Width: 8-10 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: March - April

Rhus typhina ‘Laciniata’ Laceleaf Staghorn Sumac Height: 10-12 ft Width: 10-12 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: June - July

Acer palmatum ‘Seiryu’ Japanese Maple Height: 10-15 ft Width: 8-12 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: April

Chionanthus virginicus White Fringetree Height: 12-20 ft Width: 12-20 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: May - June

Cercis canadensis ‘Covey’ Weeping Eastern Redbud Height: 4-10 ft Width: 4-10 ft Soil: Well Drained Bloom Time: April

Heptacodium miconioides Seven-Son Flower Height: 15-20 ft Width: 8-10 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: September

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STEP

ORNAMENTAL GRASS OPTIONS CHOOSE PLANTS THAT FIT YOUR SITE CONDITIONS

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ORNAMENTAL GRASSES

Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Desert Plains’ Desert Plains Fountain Grass Height: 3-4 ft Width: 3-4 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: September

Carex pensylvanica Common Oak Sedge Height: 8-12 in Width: 12-18 in Soil: Dry Bloom Time: April-May

Panicum virgatum ‘Prairie Fire’ Prairie Fire Switch Grass Height: 4-6 ft Width: 3-4 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: July-Sept

Deschampsia cespitosa Tufted Hair Grass Height: 3-4 ft Width: 18-24 in Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: May-June

Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’ Japanese Forest Grass Height: 12-18 in Width: 12-18 in Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: October

Carex flacca ‘Blue Zinger’ Blue Sedge Height: 8-12 in Width: 12-18 in Soil: Moist Bloom Time: May-June

Schizachyrium scoparium ‘The Blues’ Little Bluestem Height: 2-4 ft Width: 18-24 in Soil: Dry Bloom Time: Sept-Oct

Sporobolus heterolepis Prairie Dropseed Height: 2-3 ft Width: 2-3 ft Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: Aug-Sept

Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ Feather Reed Grass Height: 4-6 ft Width: 24-36 in Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: June - July

Sesleria autumnalis Autumn Moor Grass Height: 18-24 in Width: 12-18 in Soil: Moist/Well Drained Bloom Time: July-August

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STEP

MATERIALS AND HOW-TO QUANTIFY YOUR MATERIALS, GET YOUR HANDS DIRTY

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MULTI-STEM OR SINGLE STEM TREE SET ROOT FLARE AND TOP OF ROOT BALL 2-3” ABOVE FINISHED GRADE - DO NOT BURY WITH MULCH OR TOP SOIL THE ROOT FLARE IS THE AREA AT THE BASE OF THE TRUNK THAT SWELLS OUTWARD AS THE ROOTS ENTER THE SOIL; ALSO KNOWN AS THE ROOT COLLAR REMOVE BURLAP FROM TOP 1/3 OF ROOT BALL APPROXIMATELY 2” MULCH, DO NOT COVER ROOT FLARE, TOP OF MULCH TO MATCH FINISHED GRADE 5’ DIAMETER MINIMUM MULCH RING, DO NOT MOUND MULCH PLACE ROOT BALL ON UNDISTURBED SUBGRADE UNDISTURBED SOIL AT SUBGRADE X 2X

MATERIALS LIST (1) BB (Balled and Burlapped) MULTI-STEM TREE (shown above) or SINGLE STEM TREE in container (in photo at right) (2) MULCH (3) SOIL AMENDMENTS - DEPENDS ON YOUR SOIL (typically sand, garden soil mix, compost) (4) SHOVEL NEIGHBORHOOD HOUSING SERVICES OF CHICAGO IN ASSOCIATION WITH: CHRISTY WEBBER LANDSCAPES

STEP

MATERIALS AND HOW-TO QUANTIFY YOUR MATERIALS, GET YOUR HANDS DIRTY

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DETERMINE THE NUMBER OF PLANTS YOU NEED To determine how many plants you will need to purchase for your garden project, you will need to know three things up front: - Garden Project Area (in square feet, i.e., S.F.) - Plant Spacing, measured from center-to-center of plants (in inches) - Square Feet Needed per Plant (refer to table below and on page 67) The formula to calculate your plant quantities is as follows: S . F. G a r d e n A r e a / S . F. N e e d e d p e r P l a n t = To t a l # o f P l a n t s EXAMPLE 1: 100 S.F. Garden with Shrubs spaced every 24 inches Per the Table below, Plant Spacing at 24” on-center requires 4 S.F. of area for each plant 100 S.F. Garden Area / 4 S.F. per Plant = 25 Shrubs Total EXAMPLE 2: 100 S.F. Garden with perennials in 1-gallon containers spaced every 18 inches Per the Table on page 67, Plant Spacing at 18” on-center requires an area of 2.25 S.F. for each plant 100 S.F. Garden Area / 2.25 S.F. = 45 Perennials Total EXAMPLE 3: 100 S.F. Garden with groundcover in 4-inch pots spaced every 8 inches Per the Table on Page 67, Plant Spacing at 8” on-center requires an area of 0.44 S.F. for each plant 100 S.F. Garden Area / 0.44 S.F. = 228 Four-inch Potted Plants Total

1’ grid

3-5 GALLON SHRUB

APPROXIMATELY 2” MULCH, DON’T COVER “CROWN” CROWN IS WHERE THE PLANT STEM MEETS THE ROOTS ROOT FLARE LEVEL WITH FINISHED GRADE IF A “ROOTBALL” REMOVE BURLAP FROM TOP 1/3 OF BALL IF A CONTAINER, REMOVE CONTAINER TOPSOIL OR TILLED, AMENDED SOIL LOOSEN EARTH AT THE BOTTOM OF PIT

4’ SPACING ON 3’ SHRUB

PLANT SPACING 24” 30” 36” 48” 60”

SQUARE FEET NEEDED PER PLANT 4 6.25 9 16 25

UNDISTURBED SOIL WIDTH OF SHRUB EXCAVATED HOLE = 2X WIDTH OF SHRUB

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MATERIALS AND HOW-TO QUANTIFY YOUR MATERIALS, GET YOUR HANDS DIRTY

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6” 8” 10” 12”

0.25 0.44 0.7 1

UNDISTURBED SOIL

1 GALLON PERENNIAL IMMEDIATE IMPACT! 12” STAGGERED SPACING

LONG TERM GROWTH! 18” STAGGERED SPACING SPACE PERENNIAL 12” APART OR 18” APART

18”

12”

APPROX. 2” MULCH, DON’T COVER “CROWN” CROWN IS WHERE THE PLANT STEM MEETS THE ROOTS GENTLY REMOVE CONTAINER, KEEPING ROOT SYSTEM INTACT PLANT SPACING 12” 15” 18” 24”

SQUARE FEET NEEDED PER PLANT 1 1.56 2.25 4

TILLED OR AMENDED TOP SOIL

1’ grid

UNDISTURBED SOIL

1’ grid

4” POT GROUNDCOVER IMMEDIATE IMPACT! 8” STAGGERED SPACING

LONG TERM GROWTH! 12” STAGGERED SPACING 12”

8”

PLANT SPACING 4” 6” 8” 10” 12”

APPROX. 2” MULCH, DON’T COVER “CROWN” CROWN IS WHERE THE PLANT STEM MEETS THE ROOTS GENTLY REMOVE CONTAINER, KEEPING ROOT SYSTEM INTACT

SQUARE FEET NEEDED PER PLANT 0.11 0.25 0.44 0.7 1

SPACE GROUNDCOVER 8” APART OR 12” APART

1’ grid

TILLED OR AMENDED TOP SOIL UNDISTURBED SOIL

IMMEDIATE IMPACT!

LONG TERM GROWTH!

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STEP

INSTALLATION AND CARE - MAINTAIN AND SUSTAIN PRUNING, MULCHING, WATERING AND WEEDING YOUR GARDEN

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TREE AND SHRUB CARE: DECIDUOUS & EVERGREEN

Newly planted trees and shrubs should be watered immediately after planting. Over the next 2 weeks (or more often if the weather is hot and dry), be sure your new trees and shrubs get a minimum of 1” of water every other day. After your plant is established, you will need to supplement its watering schedule for the first year. Providing 1 to 2 inches of water every 4 to 7 days should be adequate, again either by natural rainfall or hand-watering. Newly planted trees require 2 to 3 years for their root systems to become fully established. During this time, extra watering and special care are necessary. The best way to water your trees and shrubs is to mimic natural rainfall via the slow-soak method, which better serves the plant by applying water slowly, right at soil level. This method will allow the moisture to reach deep to the bottom of the root mass. While the majority of the waterabsorbing roots are within the top 18” of ground, reaching the extent of the whole root system will encourage roots to grow deeply, as opposed to more frequent light watering, which leads to shallow root growth and thus a greater vulnerability to drying out.

Prune a competing leader. Prune back the less vigorous branch to prevent the development of two leaders, which could cause the fork to split as the tops grow larger, thus severely damaging the tree.

Prune any malformed branch.

Remove any crossing branch, which will affect the other branch’s growth and create an undesirable form.

Remove water sprouts.

Remove any branch growing at sharp or unusual angles. When this branch becomes larger it might rub another branch, split, or rot by giving water a chance to collect in the fork.

Prune any broken or badly damaged branch.

Prune temporary branches over time. These branches should be removed during the first few years to provide clearance for vehicles and pedestrians.

Remove basal shoots, which take energy away from desirable growth.

Apply 2 to 3 inches of composted mulch at the base of the tree. Mulch should be kept 2 to 3 inches away from the trunk of the tree. Mulch should not bury the root flare, which is where the tunk swells and enters the soil.

4 7

Proper pruning will ensure that your trees and shrubs maintain their natural form as they develop into maturity. The diagram to the right illustrates best-practices and problem areas when pruning your woody plants.

When pruning, watch for water sprouts which are shoots that arise from latent buds, originating either from the trunk of a tree or from branches that are several years old. These latent buds might be visible on the bark of the tree, or hidden under the bark. Regardless of their visibility or origin point, emerging water sprouts should be removed.

branch crossing causing bark damage

water sprout

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STEP

INSTALLATION AND CARE - MAINTAIN AND SUSTAIN WHAT TO WATCH AND EXPECT WHEN TENDING TO YOUR GARDEN

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PERENNIAL AND SOD ESTABLISHMENT Perennials need to be watered immediately and thoroughly after planting. For approximately 2 weeks after that, you should check plants daily to be sure the ground around them has adequate moisture. WATCH FOR WILTING PLANTS! After daily watering for the first 2 weeks, perennials should be given 1 inch of water every week (either by rain or you). Let the soil and the plants be your guide. Note that plants receiving too much water will have deformed and discolored leaves; mature leaves will look wilted and yellow, younger leaves will turn brown and no new growth will appear. Root establishment will be stunted as well and the overall root system of the plant will eventually rot from beneath. It is ironic that these visible signs of too much water look similar on the surface to when there is not enough water, which to the unexperienced gardener can be confusing. A hand shovel placed 3 to 4 inches below finished grade should be better indicative of moisture levels than visible signs at the surface. In spring, cut back perennial grasses just before – or as soon as – new growth appears. The dead and dried stalks should be cut back to within 3 to 5 inches of the soil level to make way for new stalk shoots that arrive with the warming temperatures. Deadheading is the gardening term used for the removal of faded or dead flowers from plants. Deadheading is done to maintain both a plant’s appearance and to improve its overall flowering performance throughout its bloom period. Many perennials will re-bloom after the spent flowers are removed.

FERTILIZING Trees and Shrubs should not be fertilized directly after installation or during the first season of growth. Fertilization should only be considered when your plants show signs of nutrient deficiency, such as pale or undersized leaves and slower growth rates. Consult your local garden center to determine which fertilizer is best for your trees and shrubs. Perennials need to be well situated in their new environment for at least one year before attempting to fertilize. After that, if you wish to fertilize your perennials, apply a granular (dry) slow-release fertilizer according to package directions. Best-practice is to be patient and let your perennial plantings go undisturbed for the first three years of their life in your garden before moving or dividing them. Remember this rule of thumb:

Year 1, perennials SLEEP Year 2, perennials CREEP Year 3, perennials LEAP

SLEEP = the plants have little-to-no change in growth rate for the first season after being planted. CREEP = the plants show moderate growth throughout the second season after being planted. LEAP = the plants reach full mature height and spread during the third season after being planted.

Sod should be watered immediately upon installation and continue watering daily for 10 to 14 days after installation. For the first 7 to 10 days, water sod thoroughly so that you cannot walk on it without sinking in and leaving an indentation on the lawn surface. After sod has been established (which is when it does not pull up when gently tugged) a good watering once or twice a week is preferred over light sprinklings daily.

Sod should not be fertilized directly after installation. Once well established (we recommend one season), you may follow a regular fertilization program per manufacturer’s directions to keep your lawn lush and weed-free.

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STEP

INSTALLATION AND CARE - MAINTAIN AND SUSTAIN PRUNING, MULCHING, WATERING AND WEEDING YOUR GARDEN

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MULCHING YOUR GARDEN In general, mulch moderates ground temperatures, keeping them more consistently even for optimal plant comfort and adaptation to your garden. Mulch also keeps weed growth in check and holds moisture within the soil which otherwise would naturally evaporate as temperatures rise. Mulch your garden beds in the fall to insulate your plants and reduce the risk of soil heave during the annual freeze-thaw cycles of winter. Soil heave can result in shallower-rooting groundcovers and perennials being loosened or ejected from their soil beds. Simply tuck these plants back into the soil before they awaken from dormancy in early spring. Loosen the soil surface by folding in any of last year’s mulch or other organic matter that may already be present. Replenish mulch in mid-spring each year once the soil has warmed up and signs of new growth appear. Remove weeds before you mulch. Be careful not to over-mulch, as too much mulch will repel much needed moisture, deter spring warming of the soil, and harbor pests such as slugs. Never let mulch smother emerging herbaceous plants or surround tree and shrub stems. Similarly, don’t pile mulch up against your house or garage. There are many types of mulch – the more common are hardwood (used at trees), shredded (at shrub beds) and leaf compost mulch (at groundcover and perennial beds). A three-inch layer of premium hardwood mulch is best placed at a minimum diameter of 6 feet around each tree, being careful not to place mulch against the base of the trunk. Shrub beds should receive a 2 to 3 inch maximum layer of shredded mulch over the entire bed area. Again, mulch should not be placed at the base of trunks or stems or among twigs or stems. Groundcover beds and perennial beds should ideally receive a 2-inch layer of leaf compost mulch over the entire bed area, with care taken so as to not bury desired leafy stems or vines.

WATERING TECHNIQUES AND TIPS Water should be applied so that it can slowly trickle into the soil. Be diligent to completely soak the root zone of every individual plant as well as thoroughly saturate all areas within your planting beds for full coverage. Many gardeners embrace the notion to not only water each plant where it is today, but also where you’d like it to be tomorrow. Many plants will root and shoot for those nearby areas of the garden where nourishment is available. Do not water merely with the open end of a hose, but rather use an attachment with an off/on valve to properly conserve your water. Use soaker hoses, hand-held watering wands, or spray nozzles to apply moisture directly to the root zone of each plant. These watering tools are preferable to oscillating sprinklers, which are less water-conscious and enable one to ‘set it and forget it.’ When applying directly to the root zone, be sure to monitor the water pressure to avoid damaging the plant’s physical structure such as shoots, stems, roots, adjacent soil and protective mulch. These can easily be washed out, leaving the plant vulnerable to pests and excessive drying-out. Water your plants either during the early morning hours or late evening hours of the day when the sun’s power is not at its peak. Droplets of water have a tendency to amplify the intensity of the sun and can inflict heat stress or worse, cause actual leaf damage by sunburn among your plants. Water according to plant needs. Simulate natural rain events over the course of a season rather than following a rigid schedule. Avoid frequent, light-water applications in favor of heavier applications on a less frequent basis. Water plants immediately upon signs of wilting or whenever the top one to two inches of soil is dry. Pay special attention to pockets of sandier soils and raised areas within your landscape. These zones will dry out more quickly due to increased soil porosity and gravity pulling water away from higher ground, respectively.

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STEP

INSTALLATION AND CARE - MAINTAIN AND SUSTAIN PESTS AMONG THE FLORA AND FAUNA

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WEED MAINTENANCE Every square inch of your garden has weed seeds within the soil mix, however, only those within the top inch or two of dirt receive enough light to trigger seed germination. Diligent gardening tasks such as tilling, digging, and cultivating bring hidden weed seeds to the soil surface, bringing to mind the old adage ‘no good deed goes unpunished’, when weed seeds, brought to light, must be assumed to be ready to erupt. How can you counteract weeds growing in response to the optimal conditions of natural light, nutrients and water which you are already generously providing otherwise to your ornamental landscape? The honest answer is to continue to weed, mulch and water accordingly. The good news is that your efforts will not go unrewarded. The same time and attention you pay to the caretaking of your desirable garden plants will be the same time applied to those less desirable plants within your garden. In other words, caretaking involves cultivation. Cultivation not only refers to the process of preparing the soil for the raising of desirable plants, but also to the refinement of those plants that you wish to succeed within your urban garden and the removal of those plants which you wish not to succeed.

PEST CONTROL TIPS All creatures share this planet together, large and small. In nature, there are always critters in the garden that are chewing on plants, digging in soil and doing a range of other things within the urban ecosystem of your yard. A single bug is not a problem, nor are all bugs pests. The earwig is an interesting example of both a ‘good’ and ‘bad’ bug in one; earwigs consume not only other harmful insects and their larvae, but also snack on desireable flowers and fruits. The healthiest of gardens encounter bugs at various times. For gardeners, the decision lies in determining how much pest activity can we tolerate? Inspect your garden regularly to detect problems early. The sooner a pest is identified, the easier to manage using earth-friendly measures. Consult your local garden store professionals for organic and earth-conscious options in natural pest control methods.

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INSTALLATION AND CARE - MAINTAIN AND SUSTAIN PESTS AMONG THE FLORA AND FAUNA

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COMMON WEEDS

Alliaria petiolata Garlic Mustard

Capsella bursa-pastoris Shepherdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s purse

Convolvulus arvensis Field Bindweed

Conyza canadensis Horseweed

Erigeron annuus Annual Fleabane

Cirsium arvense Canada thistle

Elymus repens Quackgrass

Polyfonum pensylvanicum Pennsylvania smartweed

Taraxacum officinale Dandelion

Lamium amplexicaule Henbit Deadnettle

Stellaria media Chickweed

Setaria viridis Green foxtail

Sonchus asper Annual Sow Thistle

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“BAD” BUGS & THEIR DAMAGE

Aphid

Bagworm

Earwig

Grub

Japanese Beetle

Psyllid

Sawfly

Slug / Snail

Spider Mite

Thrip

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Leafminer

Tomato Hornworm

Plant Bug

Viburnum Leaf Beetle

BENEFICIAL BUGS

Aphid Midge

Braconid Wasp

Bee

Centipede

Ladybug

Ground Beetle

Pillbug / Millipede

Soldier Beetle

Butterfly

Lacewing

Praying Mantis

Spider

Redworm

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SEASONAL GARDEN TASKS

SPRING SPRING is when your garden starts coming to life. Prune back or divide dense perennials and consider any new plants to add to your garden. Till garden beds to undo soil compaction and increase air flow within the soil. Add fertilizer as needed.

MARCH -

Prune summer-blooming shrubs; hold off pruning spring-blooming shrubs until after they’ve finished flowering. Prune fruit trees (including apple, pear, and cherry) and fruiting vines (raspberries, grapes). Prune other trees as needed; hold off on pruning oaks and walnuts until fall. Begin to cut back dead, spent winter stems on perennials and ornamental grasses to about 3 to 5 inches tall.

APRIL -

Watch for early-season weeds such as chickweed and henbit which sprout in cool spring temperatures. Start dividing perennials; most do best when divided every three years, more vigorous growers benefit from being split every other year. Prune evergreens from now until late summer - new growth must harden off before winter and freezing temperatures arrive. Conduct mower maintenance – replace spark plugs, oil and air filters as needed. Sharpen blades. De-thatch lawn by raking vigorously to remove spent blades of grass where their decay smothers new growth.

MAY - Hand dig stubborn weeds, and make sure to remove all of the roots. Digging is easiest after spring rains soften the soil. - Continue to divide summer and fall flowering perennials before the plants reach 6 inches tall. Water transplanted divisions generously. When to divide your perennials: - If clumps are too big and are crowding out other plants in the bed - If flowering performance had diminished during the past season - If new growth rings around a dead spot in the middle of the plant - Give plants a seasonal boost with a dose of aged compost at their root crowns. The results will be bigger plants with more blooms. - Hold on applying new mulch until the soil has warmed up for the season. Mulching too early delays the sun’s ground warming which naturally awakens your garden from its winter respite. Rule of thumb: once all the tulips have faded, it’s okay to apply mulch. - If it’s warm enough to walk on with bare feet without cold toes, then it’s warm enough for planting. - Mow lawn, but don’t remove more than one-third the length of grass at any one cutting.

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SEASONAL GARDEN TASKS

SUMMER SUMMER gardening is all about on-going maintenance. Monitor your soil moisture and water plants when they appear stressed. Keep an eye out for insects, pests and weeds. Otherwise, sit back and enjoy the fruits and flowers of your labor!

JUNE - At least once a week, deadhead throughout your garden, snipping dead and faded flowers once they have passed their prime. - Fill in any gaps in your beds with divided perennials; water immediately after transplanting and pay special attention to their response to being divided and moved within the following 2 to 3 weeks after relocation. - Prune spring-flowering shrubs now as their standout moment in your garden has passed. - Weed, weed, weed. Watch for insect pests, and catch populations while they are small. Hose or cherry-pick them off stems and leaves. - Resist taking your lawn below 2 ½ inches in height. Long grass blades mean deeper root systems. Tall grass shades out low weeds. JULY - Deadhead, weed, water and mow: repeat. - Cut back any leggy or floppy growing perennials by a third or more. New growth should emerge in time for a strong late summer display. - Summer watering is critical to keep up this time of year - be sure to monitor moisture levels. Consider installing a rain barrel to conserve potable water use; if you already have one, check for harbored mosquitoes and manage accordingly. - Sharpen mower blades as needed; dull mower blades tear grass blades rather than properly shearing them. Remove clippings. - Keep your turf slightly higher this time of year – to about 3 inches tall. This practice shades the soil, retains more moisture and more readily blocks weed seed germination. - Remove lingering dying plant matter which needlessly attracts pests and disease. AUGUST - Deadhead and weed daily if possible. Step up watering to adjust to dry, windy, hot weather conditions. - Enjoy your trees and shrubs, don’t prune them. Pruning now would prompt new growth too late in the year for adequate time to harden off before cold weather arrives. - Watch for aphids, spider mites and other dry weather pests. Treat organically with insecticidal soap or with pyrethrums, a natural extract from mums. Consult your local garden center professionals for specific pest treatments that are earth-friendly yet effective. - Check new plant additions within your garden for proper root establishment. Do so by gently tugging on stems. If resistance to uprooting is felt, roots are forming. Another good sign of plant establishment is continual new leaf formation.

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SEASONAL GARDEN TASKS

AUTUMN AUTUMN is the time to prepare your plants for the coming cold weather. Prune spent perennials and shrubs, dispose of annuals, and clean up any fallen leaves; add these to your compost pile. Gather seeds or stem cuttings for indoor planting.

SEPTEMBER - Re-seed and repair your lawn once temperatures begin to fall - cooler temperatures and increased rainfall favor seed germination. Water daily until seeds have sprouted and are established. - Tend to your garden beds; if mature plants are flopping, tie them up or stake for extra support to keep them upright and tidy. - Keep deadheading and weeding; mow less frequently, but maintain lawn at 2 ½ to 3 inches in height. - Keep an eye on the weather report – watch for forecasts of heavy rain to know when additional watering is or is not needed. OCTOBER -

Falling temperatures bring falling leaves; rake organic matter and save leaves for composted leaf mulch to dress your perennial beds. Reconsider planting any additions to your garden; generously water newcomers to promote root establishment in advance of the cold. Avoid pruning any shrub, or else new growth will suffer winter damage. Removing dead branches on plants is an exception to this rule. Supplement fall rain with hand-watering as needed, especially if the summer was on the dry side. Provide special care to plants that have been planted within the last 12 months. - Consider aerating your lawn. Aeration yanks plugs of soil from your turf and the resulting holes allow air and water direct access to grass roots. Re-seed bare spots; over-seed thin areas. If aerating and overseeding are on your to-do list, aerate first. NOVEMBER -

Shorten your spring to-do list by continuing to clean up your garden until it’s too cold to be outdoors. Rake the majority of leaves for composting; allow a few to remain beneath shrubs as mulch. Clear gutters of leaves and other fallen plant debris. This may be required a few times during fall to keep up with the season’s changes. Cut back spent perennials to save on spring clean-up efforts, leaving 3 to 5 inches of the plant stem intact. Leave those perennials standing that add winter interest to your garden. Birds will appreciate these plants as a food source. Run the gas out of your mower. Add fuel stabilizer to the tank if it is more than halfway full and run the motor enough to circulate the stabilizer through the engine. - Get a leg up on spring and sharpen your mower blades and pruning shears, as well as sharpen and oil garden tools. - Pull out your shovels and snow removal gear so that you are ready for the first wintertime accumulation of the year.

® THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

SEASONAL GARDEN TASKS

WINTER WINTER tasks should be focused on keeping your plants comfortable. Make sure there is plenty of mulch to help insulate roots and retain moisture; lightly prune shrubs and trees. Use this time to set a game plan for next season’s new projects.

DECEMBER - Shovel or blow snow into your planting beds to provide an extra blanket of insulation. Be careful, however, not to include snow pushed up from the street as it may contain plant-damaging salts. - As an alternative to conventional ice-melting products that commonly contain sodium or calcium chloride, use products made with potassium chloride which is less harmful to plants. Generally, ice melt that is labeled pet-friendly is also safe for your plants. - Other alternatives to melting salts are sand or non-clumping kitty litter, which create traction on walkways. JANUARY - After heavy snow events, you can attempt to remove the snow load burden with a broom. Gently sweep branches or plant canopies with an upward dusting motion. Do not shake or knock on branches to release the snow, as stems are much more brittle in the cold. - Be sure to responsibly clear the snow and ice from your stretch of the public sidewalk – by City of Chicago Municipal Code, homeowners must clear a minimum 5-foot wide path along the sidewalk, including sidewalk ramps. Individuals not in compliance with this rule can face fines of up to $500 per day of violation. Remember, it’s the law! FEBRUARY - Begin pruning for the year on all plants except spring-bloomers; prune to either shape the plant to a desired form, remove damaged wood, or to open the interior structure of a heavily branched plant. - Additional exceptions to pruning at this time of year also extend to dogwoods, maples and birches; these tree types will profusely bleed sap if pruned before early summer. - Watch for winter weeds which may have sprouted last fall and will be poised to flower and set seed as soon as temperatures begin to rise with the increasing hours of daylight. - Check perennials as soon as the soil is bare to verify all plants have remained properly rooted. If plants have been pushed out of the ground by frost heave, simply tuck them back in by moderately stepping on the soil immediately adjacent to the plant crown.

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STEP

DO IT YOURSELF DESIGN YOUR OWN RESIDENTIAL LANDSCAPE

Â® THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

Now you have all of the key information to create your brand new residential landscape. Choose specific plants that will thrive in your garden, but most importantly get creative and have fun! Use the step-by-step template along with example garden design projects on the following pages for inspiration. Each square of the grid shown for each sample project measures, to scale, at 1-foot x 1-foot in actual property area. Before you dig, CALL DIGGER! DIGGER is a not-for-profit corporation that helps homeowners and excavators find buried utility lines within the City of Chicago with one phone call. DIGGER is a message handling service, which receives location requests to DIGGER member companies who may have infrastructure within your project area of excavation. The service provided by DIGGER is free of charge to all excavators, including you. Utility companies pay for the cost of DIGGER as a service to protect you and the public infrastructure that serves you. Use DIGGER anytime you plan to dig. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a small job, a large construction project, a demolition project, or a homeowner project (such as planting a garden) you must call 48 hours (excluding weekends and holidays) prior to digging. DIGGER will notify the DIGGER-member owners and operators of underground utility facilities within the area of planned digging activity. Dig Safe. Dig Smart. Contact DIGGER at (312) 744-7000, or for more information visit the website https://ipi.cityofchicago.org/Digger

NEIGHBORHOOD HOUSING SERVICES OF CHICAGO IN ASSOCIATION WITH: CHRISTY WEBBER LANDSCAPES

DESIGN YOUR OWN! You can plan your own residential garden using all the resources found in these Landscape Guidelines. Follow the steps below to begin designing your own Chicago residential landscape:

Scale: 1/8”= 1’-0” 16’

8’

4’

0’

STEP 1: DRAW EXISTING + DEFINE NEW PROJECT Choose your project area by deciding whether you want to design your front, side, or back yard. Reference your property’s plat of survey, if available, or simply use graph paper to sketch your residential site to scale according to a 1-foot by 1-foot grid overlay, where each square represents an actual square foot of land area. This grid will ultimately help you properly proportion your garden, as well as calculate plant and garden soil quantities for your shopping list when visiting your local garden center. 86

® THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

NORTH

STEP 2: DOCUMENT EXISTING SITE CONDITIONS Identify which direction faces North on your site plan sketch and plot basic shadow paths around your residence. Locate sunny and shady areas within your landscape. Notate existing patterns of rainwater runoff and other existing drainage paths that flow across your site. Also clearly indicate any constantly wet or dry areas. Consider your soil and if any soil amendments are needed. Refer to pages 16-29 of these Guidelines as you tackle this step of garden planning.

STEP 3: DESIGN USING THE GUIDELINE PRINCIPLES Begin your garden project by laying out the basic structural elements you want to incorporate. Include primary and secondary paths, focal points and any other special outdoor spaces you wish to create. Plan these elements using the scale of the grid to indicate the true size of each particular feature relative to the others. Keep hierarchy, proportion, layering and formality in mind as you generate your ideas. Refer to pages 6-15 in these Guidelines to direct your design.

STEP 4: IDENTIFY + INDICATE THE DESIGN ELEMENTS Use the structure youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve just introduced in STEP 3 as a framework to fill in the rest of your garden. Add a variety of trees, shrubs, perennials, grasses and groundcovers by choosing those which are conducive to the existing or newly introduced sun, stormwater and soil conditions to create a harmonious whole. Experiment with different ideas and styles to express your own which reflect your practical needs and aesthetic preferences. NEIGHBORHOOD HOUSING SERVICES OF CHICAGO IN ASSOCIATION WITH: CHRISTY WEBBER LANDSCAPES

FRONT YARD DESIGN - BASIC BEGINNERS’ PROJECT STRUCTURE

HIERARCHY

mid

tall

low

layering

grouping

focal point

massing

border FULL-SUN TO PART-SUN PLANTING PALETTE A

0’

Dwarf Blue Spruce

‘Prairie Fire’ Crabapple E

Summer Beauty Onion 88

Yellow Ribbon Dwarf Aborvitae G

Purple Sage

Purple Betony

4’

8’

16’

Sunny Knock Out Rose H

Purple Wintercreeper

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Project Area

KEY PLAN

FRONT YARD DESIGN - BASIC BEGINNERS’ PROJECT LAYOUT / QUANTITIES

LOCATE

group of 3

single plant

H B H

ornamental tree

D A

group of 5; pair + triple

H G

two rows, three types

PART-SHADE TO SHADE PLANTING PALETTE A

Scale: 1/8 inch = 1 foot 1 square of grid equals 1 square foot of garden area

Japanese Maple E

NORTH

Project Area

KEY PLAN

‘Ruby Falls’ Weeping Redbud F

‘The Rocket’ Ligularia

Dwarf Fothergilla G

Hosta ‘Elegans’

Astilbe ‘Color Flash’

Everlow Yew H

Green Carpet Pachysandra

NEIGHBORHOOD HOUSING SERVICES OF CHICAGO IN ASSOCIATION WITH: CHRISTY WEBBER LANDSCAPES

FRONT YARD DESIGN - INTERMEDIATE LEVEL PROJECT STRUCTURE

HIERARCHY

border

small clusters existing path groups ring of plants

central lawn larger masses existing focal point

FULL-SUN TO PART-SUN PLANTING PALETTE A

0’

Dwarf Korean Lilac E

Deutzia ‘Nikko’

Little Blue Stem

Lady’s Mantle

Autumn Moor Grass G

Penstemon ‘Red Riding Hood’

Heuchara ‘Midnight Rose’

4’

8’

16’

Existing TreeServiceberry

NORTH

Hosta ‘Blue Angel’

® THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

Project Area

KEY PLAN

FRONT YARD DESIGN - INTERMEDIATE LEVEL PROJECT LAYOUT / QUANTITIES (10)

(4)

(1)

LOCATE F

(2)

C E

(3)

group of 3 (5)

(2)

(11)

group of 3

group of 3 H

(1) PART-SHADE TO SHADE PLANTING PALETTE A

Scale: 1/8 inch = 1 foot 1 square of grid equals 1 square foot of garden area

Annabelle Hydrangea

Existing TreeServiceberry NORTH

Project Area

KEY PLAN

Blue Oat Grass

Blue Sedge

Heuchera ‘Cinnamon Curls’

Rhododendron ‘PJM Elite’

‘Trevi Fountain’ Lungwort

Cardinal Flower

Astilbe ‘Purple Candles’

NEIGHBORHOOD HOUSING SERVICES OF CHICAGO IN ASSOCIATION WITH: CHRISTY WEBBER LANDSCAPES

REAR YARD DESIGN - BASIC BEGINNERS’ PROJECT STRUCTURE

HIERARCHY

formal tall hedge

hedge and fence border minor path

small grouping, low height

formal medium height hedge

hedge at edge of deck

formal lawn

minor path small clusters major path planted border

pair

small groupings, low height

low to medium height along border

FULL-SUN TO PART-SUN PLANTING PALETTE A

0’

Holmstrup Arborvitae E

Canada Anemone 92

Taunton Yew

Mugo Pine ‘Slowmound’ G

‘Jacob Cline’ Monardna

Silver Mound Artemisia

4’

8’

16’

‘Sonic Bloom’ Pink Weigela H

NORTH

‘Burgundy Glow’ Ajuga

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KEY PLAN

Project Area

REAR YARD DESIGN - BASIC BEGINNERS’ PROJECT LAYOUT / QUANTITIES

LOCATE

(10) A

(1) (3) (5)

(4) H

(8) H

(4)

(9)

(4) G

(3)

(7)

(3)

(2)

(5)

PART-SHADE TO SHADE PLANTING PALETTE A

Scale: 1/8 inch = 1 foot 1 square of grid equals 1 square foot of garden area

Green Mountain Boxwood E

NORTH

KEY PLAN

Project Area

‘Honorine Jobert’ Anemone

Green Velvet Boxwood F

Burning Bush

‘Brunette’ Bugbane

Ruby Slippers Hydrangea

Ghost Fern

‘Dixie Chip’ Ajuga

NEIGHBORHOOD HOUSING SERVICES OF CHICAGO IN ASSOCIATION WITH: CHRISTY WEBBER LANDSCAPES

REAR YARD DESIGN - INTERMEDIATE LEVEL PROJECT STRUCTURE

HIERARCHY

primary path

secondary path

existing focal point

medium height shrubs at steps

small massing, low height at path edges

low to medium height plants at porch

medium height clusters under tall tree

FULL-SUN TO PART-SUN PLANTING PALETTE A

0’

Spirea ‘Tor’ E

Hosta ‘August Moon’ 94

Limelight Hydrangea

Missouri Evening Primrose

Densiformis Yew G

‘Montrose White’ Calamint

Rainbow Knock Out Roses

Existing Tree Hornbeam

‘Tiki Torch’ Echinacea

‘Firewitch’ Dianthus Cheddar Pinks

® THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

4’

8’

16’

NORTH

KEY PLAN

Project Area

REAR YARD DESIGN - INTERMEDIATE LEVEL PROJECT LAYOUT / QUANTITIES (3) (1)

LOCATE E

(3) (1)

(1)

(3)

(15)

(5)

(24)

(3)

(1) (5)

(1)

C H

(3)

(3) (3)

(5)

A F

(3)

A D

(1)

(3)

PART-SHADE TO SHADE PLANTING PALETTE A

Scale: 1/8 inch = 1 foot 1 square of grid equals 1 square foot of garden area

Dwarf Bush Honeysuckle

Existing Tree Hornbeam E

NORTH

KEY PLAN

Project Area

Heuchera ‘Electra’

Oak Leaf Hydrangea G

Geum ‘Limonello’

‘Chequers’ Creeping Lamium

Fire Chief Globe Arborvitae

Sixteen Candles Summersweet

Cinnamon Fern

‘Winter Glow’ Bergenia

NEIGHBORHOOD HOUSING SERVICES OF CHICAGO IN ASSOCIATION WITH: CHRISTY WEBBER LANDSCAPES

DESIGN-YOUR-OWN

Typical Single Family Residential Lot - Site Plan showing House & Garage

You can plan your own residential garden using all the resources found in these Landscape Guidelines. Follow the steps below to begin designing your own residential landscape: 1. Locate sunny and shady areas. Indicate which way is North, and plot basic shadow paths around your residence. See pages 16-19. 2. Locate drainage paths on site. Are there any constantly wet or dry areas? Consider your soil, and whether any soil amendments are needed. See pages 20-29. 3. Lay out the basic structure for your landscape. These include primary and secondary paths, focal points, and any special spaces you wish to create. See pages 6-7. 4. Use this structure in your landscape design as the framework to fill in the rest of your garden, keeping hierarchy, proportion, layering, and formality in mind. Add a variety of trees, shrubs, perennials, grasses, and groundcovers to create a balanced ecosystem. Feel free to experiment with different ideas and garden design styles. See pages 8-15 and 30-61. To begin your plan, use the blank grid at the right to sketch out ideas for your own garden. Remember to work to scale, where each square of this grid will equal 1 square foot of actual landscape area. Good luck and have fun! Share your gardening progress with us via #NHSlandscapes.

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NORTH Scale: 1/8”= 1’-0”

0’

4’

8’

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RETAIL RESOURCES AND WHERE TO BUY

Â® THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

GETHSEMANE GARDEN CENTER 5739 North Clark Street

FARMER’S MARKET GARDEN CENTER 4110 North Elston Avenue

FERTILE LTD. ADAM’S & SON GARDENS

1646 West Diversey Parkway

1057 North California Avenue

CHRISTY WEBBER FARM & GARDEN

OLD TOWN GARDENS 1555 North Wells Street

2200 West Grand Avenue

CITY ESCAPE 3022 West Lake Street

FIORE NURSERY 2901 West Ferdinand Street

LOCAL GARDEN CENTERS Support your Local Garden Centers! These neighborhood independently owned and operated businesses offer a wide variety of plant species, landscape materials, and can special order plant stock for you.

BIG BOX GARDEN CENTERS Several home improvement retail chains offer larger quantities of landscaping supplies, although there is typically less variety in plant stock. These include: -

LONG’S GARDEN CENTER 11226 South Halsted Street

ACE LANDSCAPING & GARDEN CENTER 2700 East 95th Street

Lowe’s Home Improvement The Home Depot Menards Walmart Garden Center Crafty Beaver True Value NEIGHBORHOOD HOUSING SERVICES OF CHICAGO IN ASSOCIATION WITH: CHRISTY WEBBER LANDSCAPES

ABOUT NEIGHBORHOOD HOUSING SERVICES OF CHICAGO (NHS)

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NEIGHBORHOOD HOUSING SERVICES OF CHICAGO

Neighborhood Housing Services of Chicago, Inc. is a 501(c)3, taxexempt organization whose mission is to create opportunities for individuals to live in affordable homes, improve their lives, and strengthen their neighborhoods.

In 2007, NHS created an affiliation with NHS of the Fox Valley, allowing NHS to expand its program services to the city of Elgin and Kane County, Illinois. In 2013, NHS expanded its services and opened an office in South Suburban Cook County, Illinois.

We do this by:

Established by NHS in 2006, the Chicago Greystone & Vintage Home Program ® leverages design, preservation, and cultural heritage to help: promote neighborhood reinvestment; educate residents about their neighborhood’s rich history and architecture; empower property owners with practical, accessible information about how to care for their vintage buildings; advocate for the preservation and reuse of vacant/abandoned historic residential properties; and foster a greater appreciation for how aesthetic enhancements within a community can help strengthen a collective sense of “pride of place”.

• Educating and preparing new homeowners for success • Lending to help people buy, fix and keep their homes • Sustaining homeownership through foreclosure prevention services • Preserving, rehabbing and investing in housing • Building powerful and enduring community partnerships NHS was established in 1975 to provide revitalization strategy and practical resources to families in disinvested Chicago neighborhoods, and today is one of Chicago’s largest and most innovative neighborhood revitalization organizations. In 1978, NHS formed the NHS Redevelopment Corporation (NHSRC) to support its revitalization efforts through direct development activities. In 1987, NHS responded to a growing need for creative and flexible loan products by founding Neighborhood Lending Services (NLS), an Illinois Residential Mortgage licensee. NLS supports neighborhood-based lending and directly provides home improvement, purchase, and home ownership preservation financing citywide. NLS is the only nonprofit mortgage lender in the state of Illinois.

Since 1975, NHS has served over 220,000 families in the Chicago area. NHS’ achievements are evident in the success of geographic and demographic targeting of its work, as well as the innovative collaborations and partnerships built. NHS continues to be recognized as a national leader in affordable housing and neighborhood revitalization and shares its expertise with partners both regionally and around the country. NHS continually adapts and improves its intervention tools to address complex needs and resources and to deliver comprehensive, tailored solutions to help families achieve sustainable, affordable housing.

Neighborhood Housing Services of Chicago, Inc.

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ABOUT CHRISTY WEBBER LANDSCAPES (CWL)

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Â® THE CHICAGO GREYSTONE AND VINTAGE HOME PROGRAM LANDSCAPE GUIDELINES

CHRISTY WEBBER LANDSCAPES

Christy Webber founded her company in 1990 with a goal of providing exceptional residential landscaping maintenance services. Her business has grown to include municipal and commercial clients and currently self-performs maintenance on over 10 million square feet of green space on over 5,000+ sites per year. The Christy Webber & Company team takes pride in designing, building, and maintaining some of the City’s great landmark properties, such as the Museum Campus, Millennium Park, United Center, Water Tower, and Soldier Field. Today, Christy employs over 400 employees serving clients of all sizes throughout Chicago and the surrounding suburbs. Christy developed a 12.5 acre eco-industrial park on Chicago’s west side, to serve as the Company’s corporate headquarters. Appropriately named Rancho Verde, the location has won numerous awards for its innovative, environmentally sensitive approach to the redevelopment of a former brownfield site. The headquarters building is certified LEED Platinum, the highest classification granted by the US Green Building Council for Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design. Since its founding, Christy Webber Landscapes has been committed to Building a Better World for our clients in which to live, work, play, and learn. We have earned a reputation for clientfocused, multi-disciplinary landscape design, maintenance and

construction within single-family and multi-family residential, commercial, recreational, and municipal sectors. We employ a sustainable approach to our work by designing and building places that are memorable, attractive, functional, maintainable, and environmentally sound. Our goal is to improve the value of our clients’ land and economic resources in ways that advance their missions and improve their communities. We are proud of the long-term relationships we have developed with our clients through creative and responsive community-centric advocacy. Our staff has diverse experience in architectural design, landscape design, amenity decks and green roofs, project management, construction technology, LEED documentation and communications. The CWL team is an advocate of generating enduring landscapes by engaging through sound design, construction and maintenance practices. We balance beauty, function, and sustainability to create long-lasting creative solutions for landscapes that benefit our clients, their neighbors, the community, and the environment. As an advocate of sustainable landscapes, Christy Webber & Company has been in the forefront of environmental stewardship through our industry-leading landscape practices as we design, construct and maintain a vast array of green spaces - from residential gardens to civic parkland - throughout Chicago, the surrounding suburbs, and the Midwest Region.

Landscape Supply

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SOURCES AND RESOURCES ARTICLES extension.colostate.edu/publications-2 extension.psu.edu/natural-resources/forests/urbancommunity/publications/pruning-landscape-trees ipi.cityofchicago.org/Digger web.extension.illinois.edu/state/horticulture/index.php www.mwrd.org/irj/portal/anonymous/rainbarrel www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/214.html www.lowes.com/projects/gardening-and-outdoor/soil-andsoil-amendments-guide/article WEBSITES www.bhg.com/gardening www.chicagobotanic.org www.chicagowilderness.org www.christywebber.com www.christywebberfarmandgarden.com www.cityofchicago.org/city/en/progs/env/water.html www.finegardening.com www.garfieldconservatory.org www.missouribotanicalgarden.org www.monrovia.com www.mortonarb.org www.mwrd.org www.nhschicago.org www.planetnatural.com www.provenwinners.com www.rainready.org

Copyright Â© 2016 by NHS, Neighborhood Housing Services of Chicago, Inc. in association with Christy Webber Landscapes / Christy Webber & Company All rights reserved. This book or any portion thereof may not be reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever without the express written permission of the publisher. Self-published and Printed in the United States of America First Printing, Spring 2016 IN ASSOCIATION WITH :

BOOKS

The Know Maintenance Perennial Garden by Roy Diblik, 2014

Neighborhood Housing Services of Chicago, Inc.

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IN ASSOCIATION WITH :

Neighborhood Housing Services of Chicago, Inc.