Getting personal with foodies Issue #1 / May 2015
The perfect forage & find With John Wright
In-focus
Greek Mixologist
The Gin Experience Devon Dairy Farm
Modern Japanese Breakfast Time
Cocktails with a difference
At Plymouth Gin
Molecular passion From Chef Stephen Gomes
Bite size discoveries from a very hungry food photographer...
Contents Liquid Nibbles
Cocktails with a difference 6 Coffee Heaven 8 Getting juicy in Devon 10
Secret Nibbles
The Perfect Forage & find 14 Molecular Passion our chef in focus 16
Our Nibbles Homemade Nibbles 22 Seasonal Nibbles 24 Sweet Nibbles 26 International Nibbles 28 Our Chocolate Expert 30 Macaron Obsession 32 Fine Nibbles 34
In-focus
Devon Dairy Farm 44 Our Greek Mixologist 46 Handmade & Delicious 48 The Gin Experience 50 Breakfast Time 52 Modern Japanese 54
Page 2
Page 3
Page 4
It’s all about the
cocktails, juice & obviously coffee... This issue is all about the South... From shooting (and tasting!) amazing cocktails at a bar in Plymouth, to stamina boosting espressos from The Devon Coffee Company and refreshing drinks from the almighty Luscombe Organics. please read on...
Page 5
Cocktails with a difference... The Refectory Bar in Plymouth is the ultimate spot in which to sit back, relax and admire the incredible attention to details that every member of staff puts into each cocktail on the menu. Making them captivating, exciting and amazing to taste... The secret ingredient? Passion. The Head Mixologist is just so passionate about his profession, striving to serve the perfect drink every single time, with some of the most incredible ingredient combinations I have experienced so far. www.therefectorybar.co.uk
Page 6
A little tip... Quite a unique taste but
I recommend ordering a
smoking negroni, truly
stunning, but if you are
looking for something a
little tamer why not a
normal negroni...
Page 7
Coffee heaven... Most of you will know that attention to detail is one of my favourite attributes in the world! And I was certainly not left disappointed when I ordered my first coffee at The Dock in Plymouth. Serving amazing lattes and espressos from The Devon Coffee Company, these guys really love their beans, and boy does it show... www.devoncoffeecompany.com www.thedockplymouth.co.uk
Page 8
A little tip... One other thing I love with coffee at home is
biscotti, a thick, twice-
baked almond flavoured biscuit. This crunchy biscuit I love to dip in my Espresso...
Page 9
Getting juicy in Devon... If you haven’t already heard of Luscombe Organics, then you’re missing out! Based on a farm in deepest Devon, the team have been making beautiful drinks since 1975, crafting them with exceptional care and integrity.
Page 10
“It’s all about the taste” Luscombe really go to great lengths in order to produce drinks that will be a pleasure to taste. From the time they spend talking to growers and suppliers, to refining their recipes, sourcing bespoke equipment made by skilled craftsmen, their neurotic attention to detail is admirable to say the least. They really do it as it should be done - no shortcuts, no tricks, just a genuine drink made by genuine people. www.luscombe.co.uk
A little tip... You guessed it the one you have to
try is the Passionate Ginger Beer,
if you already like Ginger Beer wait until you taste this with a twist of passion fruit...
Page 11
This issue we spend a day with the amazing mushroom and seaside forager John Wright in Dorset and then go behind the scenes with Indian Molecular chef Stephen Gomes to taste and photograph some very intersting and different food.
Hope you enjoy my finds...
Page 12
Page 13
Page 14
Forage & find...
What a day out I had when I joined mycologist John Wright down in Dorset. Star of TV Show ‘River Cottage’, it’s fair to say John knows his stuff when it comes to foraging. We spent a busy day collecting and identifying mushrooms (and staying away from the poisonous ones!) of course with some great banter! This man really knows his stuff. Then we headed back to Summer Lodge Country House Hotel (3AA Rosette status), where Exec Chef Steve Titman whipped up some mouthwatering mushroom-inspired dishes to be photographed... You can join John on his next Summer Lodge Mushroom Forage on 26th September. www.wild-food.net www.summerlodgehotel.co.uk
A little tip... Look out for the dangerous ones,
this shocked me how
readily available they are, Death Cap and
Destroying Angel know your enemies...
Page 15
Our Molecular Chef in-focus...
Page 16
Renowned for his quirky style of cooking and crazy kitchen experiments, including ‘cooking chicken in a dishwasher’, Chef Stephen Gomes’ dishes balance flavour, colour and texture while remaining authentic to Indian cuisine. He is credited as being among the first chefs to experiment with natural food science, whilst also drawing on the ancient Indian Ayurvedic system. Meaning ‘life knowledge’, the 5000 year old system of natural healing and cleansing explores how to eat for optimum balance. Born in Mumbai, Stephen Gomes is the 4th generation of top Chefs in his family. After 15 years spent progressing through kitchens at fivestar hotels in Asia, he settled in Cardiff, working for the Cafe Naz Restaurant Group, before opening his own critically acclaimed restaurant Moksh in 2007.
Page 17
Stephen Gomes has held the title of ‘Best UK Indian Chef’ with the prestigious Cobra Good Curry Guide for a large part of the last decade and was also named Goldstar English Curry Chef of the Year 2013, as well as Goldstar Welsh Curry Chef of the Year 2014! Since opening in 2007, Moksh has become the first Indian restaurant in Cardiff to earn an AA Rosette Award. For a taste of Stephen’s cooking, try this recipe for his delicious Hyderabadi Mince... Hyderabadi Mince Recipe: Serves 6 Ingredients: 150g Welsh lamb mince ½ onion (finely chopped) ½ tomato (chopped) 1 teaspoon ginger garlic paste ½ teaspoon red chilli powder ½ teaspoon cumin powder 2g whole cumin seeds 4 green cardamom 1 tablespoon curd (yogurt) 1 tablespoon oil Fresh coriander Salt (as required)
Method: 1. Mix together lamb mince, curd/ yoghurt, salt, and ginger garlic paste and keep aside for at least 20 minutes. 2. Heat oil in a Kadhai. Add the whole cumin seeds and green cardamom and let them crackle. Add the chopped onions and sauté until the onions are golden brown in colour. 3. Add the red chilli powder and cumin powder. 4. Cook for a minute and then add the chopped tomatoes. 5. Add the marinated lamb mince. Cook on a medium high flame until the mince is cooked. 6. Add a couple of chopped fresh coriander leaves.
Page 18
A little tip... My only tip is to order the taster menu, that is in my opinion the
best way to experience the Theatre of Chef
Stephen Gomes you will not be disappointed...
Page 19
Our Nibbles
In this section, Carole my talented food stylist shares her home recipes with us, my close friend Patissier Massimo Bishop Scotti imparts his chocolate wisdom and I pick my favourite photographs from hotels and restaurants I have visited during the past few months...
Page 20
Homemade Nibbles Handslip Corner Cheese tartlets By our very own Carole Handslip Page 21
Cheese tartlets To make the pastry: Put the flour and mustard powder in a mixing bowl and rub in the butter until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Mix in the cheese together with enough water to form a firm dough. Turn onto a floured surface and knead lightly until smooth. Roll out into a thin pastry then, using an 8cm plain cutter, cut out 12 discs. Place each disc in a patty tin and chill for 20 minutes. To make the filling: Heat the oil in a frying pan, add the onion, garlic and red pepper and fry gently until softened. Add the courgette, tomato, salt and pepper. Cover and cook gently for 10 minutes then leave to cool. Spoon into the pastry cases and sprinkle cheese generously over the top. Put into a preheated oven at 200C/400F and cook for 15 minutes until the pastry is done.
Page 22
HOMEMADE
Ingredients - makes 12 tartlets Cheese Pastry 175g plain flour ½ tspn mustard powder 75g butter 75g cheddar cheese, grated 1 tbsp cold water Filling 1 tbsp oil 1 onion, chopped 1 clove garlic, chopped 1 red pepper, de-seeded & sliced 1 courgette, diced 2 tomatoes, chopped ½ tspn salt
¼ tspn black pepper 50g cheddar cheese, grated
Cheese supplied by Kingdom Cheese Page 23
Seasonal Nibbles
A little tip... Try wrapping pancetta
around your joint, with a sprinkling of garlic
cloves before roasting to change the taste of the traditional meal... Page 24
Roasted pork shot for Bluestone360, Styled by Carole Handslip, Art Direction by Steve Watson Page 25
Page 26
Sweet Nibbles
I make no secret that I have a rather sweet tooth. And what an extravaganza of amazing desserts the team at Summer Lodge in Dorset provided for me during a recent shoot! Anywhere that serves you a pre-dessert this mouthwatering gets my seal of approval...
Summer Lodge Hotel, Chef Steven Titman Red Carnation Hotels - www.summerlodgehotel.co.uk
Page 27
International Nibbles
Getting to travel is one of the perks of my job that I really love. As one of my favourite cities, it’s always a pleasure to spend a weekend shooting at The Hotel d’Angleterre, where five star service is taken to a whole new level.
Hotel d’Angleterre www.dangleterrehotel.com
Page 28
Page 29
Our Chocolate Expert Introducing my good friend, client and expert Chocolatier/Patissier Massimo Bishop Scotti. Here to share some tasty facts about one of our favourite ingredients... Who is Massimo? He has worked with first class chefs in multi-Michelin starred restaurants and 5 star hotels, The Savoy, The Intercontinental Hotel, Pool Court at 42 and also at The Aubergine for Gordon Ramsay. He designed bespoke dessert recipes for the likes of Sir Elton John & Sir Michael Parkinson. twitter.com/massimobs
Page 30
Massimo’s Chocolate Fact Researchers identified residue of a chemical compound that comes exclusively from the cacao plant the source of chocolate - in pottery vessels dating from about 1100 BC in Puerto Escondido, Honduras. This pushed back by at least 500 years the earliest documented use of cacao, an important luxury commodity in Mesoamerica before European invaders arrived and now the basis of the modern chocolate industry!
Chocolate Question? Who was the Dutch inventor of the cocoa press?
Stay tuned for the
answer, next issue‌
Page 31
Macaron Obsession
Over an espresso (of course), I talked all things Macaron with Massimo... “Macaron, its not easy to achieve the perfect Macaron! I started off with a base recipe from the internet about 3 years ago, never made them before, apart from more of an Italian style like “Baci di dama” which will be featured in the next edition.
Like all my other recipies I wanted to build a relationship with the product recipe. Each recipe is individual to the quantity you are trying to make with the equipment you have therefore if you ask me there is not a “perfect recipe” out there.
MPW once said “ We are all commis in my Kitchen, we are all still learning” . Resting your Macaron mix is very important and the amount of almonds needs to be high so you will have structure and body to your Macaron, nobody likes a sweet Macaron.
The important tip is to understand the ingredients behaviour within Use them with a nice espresso, a recipe and by using specific or Cappuccino is a marriage in equipment. Obviously this doesn’t heaven” come over night it has taken me 30 years.
Page 32
Page 33
FINE nibbles In this section I tell you about just a few of the great finds on my recent travels. With so many incredible venues, I was spoilt for choice... Please enjoy...
Page 34
Page 35
Fine Dining in stunning Surroundings Llangoed Hall offers an intimate fine dining experience that will surprise your palate. The menu is inspired by the freshest and finest local ingredients, with fruit and vegetables grown in the hotel’s very own kitchen garden. As the seasons change, so does the menu. There is no doubt, you will always be satisfied here. Chef Nick Brodie www.llangoedhall.co.uk
Page 36
A little tip... Valrhona chocolate
and smoked ice cream,
surely the dessert you
have to try on your next
visit to Llangoed Hall. What more needs to be
said, mmmmmmmm‌
Page 37
Page 38
Michelin Starred Chef... I recently had the pleasure of working with Mark Dodson of The Mason Arms, which was a truly calming experience. A very successful and confident Chef, Mark was Head Chef at Michel Roux’s Waterside Inn in Bray and now owns the Michelin starred The Masons Arms. The food at The Masons Arms displays a modern take on British and French classics, with a mature complexity in the cooking processes. This Alaskan salmon was every bit as delicious as it looks! Chef Mark Dodson www.masonsarmsdevon.co.uk
Page 39
Page 40
The ItalianJob
Working with Aqua Italia Restaurants is always fun, but photographing the dishes for their new Italian Cookbook took on a whole new level! The attention to detail that has gone into every single one of Emelia Schiavetta’s dishes is simply outstanding. Of course, I had to taste many of the dishes whilst I was there... My favourite was the pan fried duck breast with cherry and balsamic jus - which I will definitely be recreating at home! www.aqua-restaurant.com
Page 41
Page 42
This section highlights the latest happenings in the industry, from new products to restaurant openings... These latest nibbles are sure to get you excited...
Page 43
Page 44
Devon Dairy Farm...
Riverford Organic Dairy We are all about provenance in the truest sense of the word. The Dairy is located amidst the rolling hills of South Devon where climate conditions and rich soils are ideal for dairy farming. A holistic farming system is implemented, based on the knowledge that healthy land supports healthy cows and that means healthy products for consumers. The Dairy produces a premium range of artisan, natural and organic products that are traditionally made using timehonoured methods. The milks, creams, yogurts, cheeses and butters are available in retail and catering sizes.
So how does holistic farming work? Well at Riverford Dairy, a bio-diverse range of plants is grown on pastures, including complex grasses, clovers, legumes and herbs. These plants steadily return nitrogen and other nutrients to the soil, improving its condition. The protein content of the plants supports the health of the cows and results in unique tasting, rich milk. The herd is Mixed Breed, well suited to organic farming, and a gentle and ethical approach to dairying. The milk travels just 300 metres from the cows to the production area where products are made using artisan methods and packed by hand.
riverforddairy.co.uk
Page 45
Our Mixologist in-focus... Christos Kyriakidis gives us some tips to remember when making cocktails Ice - Ice is the most important ingredient when making drinks. Good solid big ice cubes are required when stirring, shaking or serving on the rocks. I am a big fan of using a block of ice and chopping it down to what I need it for - stirred drinks, or for drinks that are served over ice. Old Fashioneds, Negronis or simple whisky on the rocks, benefits from this type of ice because it gives you maximum chill with a minimum dilution, resulting in a better final drink for the guest. London based company, Eskimo Ice, is great for this. No point trying to make yours as it will be hard to get the ice clear. Remember clear ice, melts about 5 times slower than your ice from the machine which is full of trapped air.
Page 46
Bonfire Negroni 25ml *Lapsang Souchong infused Plymouth Original Gin 25ml Campari 25ml Martini Rosso Sweet Vermouth Method: Stir all ingredients with good quality ice cubes and strained into a chilled Martini glass, garnish with a discarded orange twist. This recipe can be served over ice, but be careful not to over dilute. It will be better to use a block of ice. * Take 2 teaspoons of Lapsang Souchong loose leaf tea and add it to 1 Litre of Plymouth Gin , using an airtight container, allow to infuse for 2 hours maximum and then filter well and bottle the gin.
Page 47
Handmade & truly delicious... Okemoor award winning handmade food from the West Country. The company was originally founded by successful hoteliers Jeffrey and Liz Lawrence in 1989, to provide Westcountry businesses with top quality food products. The couple were no strangers to great food. Liz was an experienced chef and the couple knew how to meet the demands of hungry and fastidious customers at every meal. New owners Ray and Lynda have built upon this fantastic foundation, whilst Liz remains an important part of the team.
Page 48
Head chef Fortunato, who is called ‘Fort’ for short, previously worked with two well-known Michelin Star chefs. Gaining many years of excellent experience in Italy and France before coming to Britain, he has now worked in the UK for ten years. His creations are simply out of this world, with great taste at the heart of all he makes. www.okemoor.co.uk
A little tip... A real must is the new
Lemon and poppy seed
cake, divine is the only
word I can think of
while eating this... Page 49
The Gin Experience Revel in this most English of spirits It may not be considered a on this innovative gin and tonic tour life saver today but this simple in the heart of Mayfair. combination of spirit and mixer is a firm favourite and The Chesterfield Cocktail mixing is a true art form is celebrating this with its new Gin and modern day concoctions & Tonic Experience. range from sweet to savoury and spicy to sour but the classic Guests will join the hotel bar’s cocktails are enjoying a resurgence resident mixologist, Edgar Pou, to in popularity too. The Chesterfield sample selected gins and a choice Mayfair (www.chesterfieldmayfair. of tonic waters to appreciate com) has crafted four exciting Gin the bouquet of botanicals that and Tonic tasting experiences go into the complex distillation taking gin enthusiasts on a of gin in the modern age whilst flavourful journey of delicate encountering new gin and tonic aromas and botanicals to create flavour sensations. and truly bring the perfect G&T. this classic English spirit to life. The humble Gin and Tonic has been tantalising taste buds since the days of the British Empire in India when soldiers discovered that quinine in tonic water was a disease preventative. This bitter drink was knocked back with a shot (or two) of gin giving birth to the classic concoction.
Page 50
chesterfieldmayfair.com
Page 51
Page 52
Breakfast time I get to photograph and sample so many incredible breakfasts that it was hard to choose which to feature this issue! In the end, I simply had to go for Milk & Sugar in Cardiff. Their bacon sandwich is to die for, and with a selection of mouthwatering breakfast treats my only complaint is that they won’t deliver to my Studio! Keep up the good work guys and keep on serving the best illy coffee in town... www.milkandsugarplease.com
Page 53
Modern Japanese Murakami is a contemporary modern Japanese restaurant and sushi bar in London, that I have been lucky enough to work with since their launch late last year. The restaurant’s emphasis is on great value contemporary Japanese dining in a beautifully designed setting. Murakami specialise in sushi rolls, sashimi and their superb dishes from the robata grill that was specially crafted for the restaurant. The staff, the food, the living wall and the fresh design of this venue makes it a must see on your next visit to Covent Garden. www.murakami.london
Page 54
Page 55
This magazine was brought to you by
seaAITCH FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY
AKA Craig Howarth, a very busy food photographer working/eating his way around the world one dish at a time...
Feeling inspired? Let’s have some fun photographing your creations. Get in touch today! Craig Howarth - Food Photographer Craig@seaaitch-photography.com twitter.com/seaAitchfood nibblesfoodiemagazine +44 (0) 7540 884601