Gotham - 2014 - Issue 5 - September by Niche Media Holdings, LLC

GOTHAM 2014, ISSUE 5

FALL FASHION

SEPTEMBER

elisabeth

MOSS

TALKS NEW MOVIES, LIFE BEYOND MAD MEN, AND MANHATTAN FAVORITES WITH JON HAMM ELISABETH MOSS

NEW YORK'S BEST-DRESSED DJS • WHERE FASHION DINES Plus: RALPH LAUREN, DONNA KARAN, STING, AND MORE! gotham-magazine.com NICHE MEDIA HOLDINGS, LLC

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Gotham • September 2014 • 2 Page Spread • LHP • Trim: 10” x 12” Bleed: 10.25”x12.25” Job# 249566

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FRONT RUNNER A draping class at FIT during its early years.

FIT celebraTes 70 years oF TeachIng The FIne arT oF FashIon desIgn. Some of fashion’s most celebrated names share a common educational ancestry—the Fashion Institute of Technology, which celebrates its 70th anniversary this month. Among the school’s notable alums are industry greats like Calvin Klein, Reem Acra, Francisco Costa, and Michael Kors. Founded in 1944 by a group of garment executives concerned that the industry was dying out, FIT enrolled 100 students its first year to learn the tools of tailoring, design, and manufacturing. By 1951, FIT was a degree-granting institution within the SUNY system. The current day campus, a compound encompassing an entire city block on West 27th Street, has grown to include a museum, with collections featuring archival designs from such notables as Balenciaga, Chanel, and Dior, and a fully functioning fragrance lab—the only one of its kind on a US college campus. Today, more than 10,000 students attend FIT. Along with state-of-the art technical expertise, alums praise the opportunities for networking and collaboration that the school offers. Couturier Ralph Rucci, who transferred to FIT in 1978, said he was able to talk his

By Adrienne GAffney

way into an internship with Halston, and when he later started his company, he recruited Vivian VanNatta, whom he had met in a draping class, to join his team. (She now serves as the company president.) Joyce Brown, FIT’s current president, cites Bare Minerals founder and Bare Essentials executive chairman Leslie Blodgett, a 1985 graduate, as one of many alums who have returned to the school numerous times to network with students. Blodgett also established a special scholarship at FIT. Much in keeping with the mission of the school’s founders, designer Nanette Lepore, an alumna in the class of 1983, became a prominent activist for the preservation of the city’s Garment District. She says she is forever mindful of what she learned at the school. “FIT opened up a world of opportunities for me that I didn’t know existed. It made me believe that I could have a career as a designer. Learning how to handcraft clothing from start to finish was invaluable as well,” she says. The benefits of the FIT experience aren’t merely practical, Lepore explains. “It taught me to work hard and never give up.” G

photography courtesy of special collections, gladys marcus library, fit

Sew Smart

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contents

september 2014 12 // Front runner 26 // From the

editor-in-ChieF

28 // From the Publisher 30 // ... Without Whom

this issue Would not have been Possible

32 // the list 81 // invited

STYLE 37 // diamond Jubilee Donna Karan revolutionized how contemporary women dress. Now, she celebrates 30 years at the top of the fashion industry with a Fall collection that references her debut designs and an ever-expanding portfolio of philanthropic causes.

40 // bold moves Fall’s seriously stylish bags and shoes offer edgy NYC glamour, day and night.

44 // the PerFeCt Pair Aquazzura teams up with Olivia Palermo for a new shoe line; Fendi debuts a pop-up in Soho; H. Stern launches the Rock Season collection.

46 // eternal eleganCe Bulgari has enchanted tastemakers with its exquisite pieces for 130 years, establishing a glamorous heritage and creating a legacy of exceptional luxury.

48 // eau my Word!

50 // seizing the moment

Designer Phillip Lim talks about why Noho remains his favorite part of the city.

Cameron Diaz, brand ambassador for TAG Heuer, makes sure she fnds time for her favorite cause.

52 // KeePing ChiC Fun Leandra Medine, aka The Man Repeller, shares her New York haunts.

photography by eric ryan anderson

A stunning fragrance from Hermès is inspired by luxe leather handbags— and sensual French literature.

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GIORGIO ARMANI CORPORATION 450 WEST 15TH STREET NY 10011 T. 212.209.3589 GOTHAM ISSUE: SEPT 2014 DUE: 7/31 POSITION: PAGE TRIM: 10X12 BLEED: 0.125

contents

september 2014

The lunchtime Dutch Morgan Chicken at The Fat Radish.

70 // breakiNg away

With the new flm This Is Where I Leave You, Abigail Spencer moves into the big leagues.

72 // CurreNt style F.E. Castleberry spent years photographing Rowing Blazers, a lavish fashion tome out this month.

Abigail Spencer stars in the upcoming This Is Where I Leave You.

culture 54 // Class Notes

This Is Our Youth returns to Broadway starring fashion blogger Tavi Gevinson, Michael Cera, and Kieran Culkin.

Sara Ziff founded the Model Alliance to improve working conditions in a business that isn’t always as glamorous as it seems.

76 // fosteriNg a better future Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos talks about New Yorkers for Children, a charity popular with the city’s fashion crowd.

56 // sailiNg away

Sting previews The Last Ship on Broadway.

tASte

58 // a Passage to iNdia

87 // ruNway refuge

Artist Francesco Clemente’s love affair with the subcontinent is the focus of a new exhibition at the Rubin Museum of Art.

Betony remains a haven for stylistas during Fashion Week, thanks to a modernist menu and a location close to the goings-on at Lincoln Center.

60 // Mad for desigN

90 // fashioN’s hot New boîte

The best art, design, music, and culture the city has to offer.

people 63 // dowNtowN’s

Sean MacPherson’s Margaux is the latest chic hangout.

92 // a Model Crowd Nightspots that attract the runway’s most famous faces.

QueeN of Cool

94 // freNCh twists

Jenné Lombardo, director of New York’s MADE Fashion Week, wants to change how collections are presented in the city.

Restaurants across the city are welcoming the style set with grand openings and Fashion Week offerings.

66 // urbaN reNewal How Noho serves as respite and creative catalyst for designer Phillip Lim.

96 // filM foruM Actress Analeigh Tipton and director Max Nichols stop by The Fat Radish to talk about their latest projects.

photography by doug young (dish), Mathew scott. styling by angel terrazas. hair by laini reeves for starworks artists. Makeup by kayleen McadaMs for the wall group. Manicure by tracey sutter for cloutier reMix. shot on location at the four seasons in beverly hills (spencer)

74 // a brighter PiCture

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contents

september 2014

100

Life after Mad Men? You betcha!

features 100 // Mad about Moss Elisabeth Moss, starring in this month’s The One I Love, is having a very good year. Mad Men costar Jon Hamm gets the scoop.

106 // belle de Noir As autumn settles in, nostalgic overcoats and romantic dresses bring to life the elegance and grace of the city’s 1940s-era fashions.

116 // a New GaMe of Polo Ralph Lauren evolves the preppy aesthetic with a major launch—the Polo Women’s Collection.

120 // sPiN Class Meet the fashionista DJs creating the hottest music vibes at runway shows and Fashion Week afterparties.

128 // radiCal PrivileGe A new Ken Burns series chronicles the rise of the Roosevelts, New York’s only presidential political dynasty and widely viewed as America’s most important one. Local descendants of Teddy, FDR, and Eleanor weigh in on the family legacy and the price of multigenerational fame.

With the ever-expanding worldwide market for illegal luxury goods, African elephants are being hunted to extinction for their lucrative tusks. Chelsea Clinton shares her passion for these exceptional animals and the Clinton Global Initiative’s efforts to save them.

photography by sheryl nields

134 // the PriCe of ivory

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6 5 5 F IF T H AV E NUE

AM ERICANA M ANH A SSET

TH E WESTC H ESTER

TH E M AL L AT SH O RT H IL L S

TH E SH O P S AT RIV ERSIDE

SH O P FERRAGAMO .C O M

contents

september 2014

139

A kitchen design for 50 West, a new luxury tower in FiDi.

HAUTE PROPERTY 139 // Power Tower Being built from scratch, 50 West offers a rare level of custom design to FiDi’s new luxury condo offerings.

142 // TroPhy Transfers Big deals at the city’s most coveted addresses.

THE gUidE 145 // Modern ClassiC

146 // MusT-sToP shoPs Fashion boutiques are popping up all around town.

And finAllY... 152 // The onCe-over Forget the subtle status check in a town where the world’s übersuccessful come to play.

on The Cover:

Elisabeth Moss Photography by Sheryl Nields/Copious Management Styling by Karla Welch Slate overcoat, Jason Wu ($5,500). Fivestory New York, 18 E. 69th St., 212-288-1338; jasonwustudio .com. Embroidered-lace contrast panel dress, Burberry Prorsum ($3,195). 9 E. 57th St., 212-407-7100; burberry.com. 80-diamond ring crafted in 18k white gold (price on request) and 18k white-gold 69 brilliant-cut diamond ring (price on request), Chopard. 709 Madison Ave., 212-223-2304; us.chopard.com

photography by dbox (50 West). on the cover: hair by alex polillo at the Magnet agency using oribe. Makeup by sabrina bedrani for lancôMe at tracey Mattingly. Manicure by Jolene brodeur for abtp. styling assistance by erica cloud

Valentino’s new Fifth Avenue boutique pays homage to all things glamorous.

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, Bulova and Bulova Accutron are registered trademarks. ÂŠ 2014 Bulova Corporation. 97B130

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JOIN US ONLINE at gotham-magazine.com

We have the inside scoop on New York City’s best parties, dining, style, and more. style

WHO TO FOLLOW FOR FASHION WEEK Fashion Week in New York has become a social media frenzy. We distill it down to just a few key accounts to follow.

SEE THE LATEST FROM LAST NIGHT’S EVENTS Couldn’t attend? Browse the newest photos from New York City’s most exclusive parties.

dine

CAN’T-MISS AFTERNOON TEA SERVICES A piping hot cup of tea in a luxe atmosphere is a fun way to ward off fall chills.

COME FOLLOW US

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEV RADIN (FASHION SHOW); EUGENE GOLOGURSKY/GETTY IMAGES (SETH MEYERS); NITR (TEA)

photos

Embrace the unexpected.

ThE fIrsT-EvEr LIncoLn MKc Summer 2014

You wouldn’t expect a powerful 285-hp EcoBoost® engine* to come wrapped in an elegant exterior and a supple Bridge of Weir® Deepsoft leather-trimmed interior.* You wouldn’t expect active park assist** to guide you as easily out of a parking spot as it guided you in. Perhaps you also wouldn’t expect the name on the badge. But then, great things often live beyond our expectations. LINCOLN.COM/MKC

Preproduction model shown. *Available features. **Available. Includes park out assist.

CATHERINE SABINO Editor-in-Chief Senior Managing Editor KEN RIVADENEIRA Editor-at-Large SAMANTHA YANKS Art Director ANASTASIA TSIOUTAS CASALIGGI Photo Director LISA ROSENTHAL BADER Assistant Editor ERIN RILEY Entertainment and Bookings Editor JULIET IZON Fashion Editor FAYE POWER Copy Editor CAROL REED Research Editor MURAT OZTASKIN

DAWN DUBOIS Publisher Advertising Directors VICTORIA HENRY, JIM SMITH Account Executives THOMAS CHILLEMI, MORGAN CLIFFORD, GABRIELLA ZURROW Director of Event Marketing JOANNA TUCKER Event Marketing Manager CHRISTIAMILDA CORREA Sales Assistant JAMIE HILDEBRANDT

NICHE MEDIA HOLDINGS, LLC

Senior Vice President and Editorial Director MANDI NORWOOD Vice President of Creative and Fashion ANN SONG Creative Director NICOLE A. WOLFSON NADBOY Executive Fashion Director SAMANTHA YANKS

ART AND PHOTO

Senior Art Director FRYDA LIDOR Associate Art Directors ALLISON FLEMING, ADRIANA GARCIA, JUAN PARRA, JESSICA SARRO Senior Designer NATALI SUASNAVAS Designer SARAH LITZ Photo Editors KATHERINE HAUSENBAUER-KOSTER, JODIE LOVE, SETH OLENICK, JENNIFER PAGAN, REBECCA SAHN Senior Staff Photographer JEFFREY CRAWFORD Senior Digital Imaging Specialist JEFFREY SPITERY Digital Imaging Specialist JEREMY DEVERATURDA Digital Imaging Assistant HTET SAN

FASHION

Senior Fashion Editor LAUREN FINNEY Fashion Assistants CONNOR CHILDERS, LISA FERRANDINO

COPY AND RESEARCH

Copy and Research Manager WENDIE PECHARSKY Copy Editors DAVID FAIRHURST, NICOLE LANCTOT, JULIA STEINER Research Editors LESLIE ALEXANDER, JUDY DEYOUNG, AVA WILLIAMS

EDITORIAL OPERATIONS

Director of Editorial Operations DEBORAH L. MARTIN Director of Editorial Relations MATTHEW STEWART Editorial Assistant CHRISTINA CLEMENTE Online Executive Editor CAITLIN ROHAN Online Editors ANNA BEN YEHUDA, TRICIA CARR Senior Managing Editors DANINE ALATI, , KAREN ROSE, JILL SIERACKI Managing Editors JENNIFER DEMERITT, JOHN VILANOVA Shelter and Design Editor SUE HOSTETLER Timepiece Editor ROBERTA NAAS

ADVERTISING SALES

Senior Vice President of Sales and Marketing NORMAN M. MILLER Account Directors SUSAN ABRAMS, MICHELE ADDISON, CLAIRE CARLIN, KATHLEEN FLEMING, KARE L EVINE, MEREDITH MERRILL, NORMA MONTALVO, ELIZABETH MOORE, GRACE NAPOLITANO, JEFFREY NICHOLSON, DEBORAH O’BRIEN, SHANNON PASTUSZAK, MIA PIERRE-JACQUES, VALERIE ROBLES Account Executives SUSANA ARAGON, JUDSON BARDWELL, MICHELLE CHALA, JANELLE DRISCOLL, ALICIA DRY, VINCE DUROCHER, IRENA HALL, SARAH HECKLER, CATHERINE KUCHAR, JULIA MAZUR, FENDY MESY, MARISA RANDALL, MARY RUEGG, LAUREN SHAPIRO, CAROLINE SNECKENBERG, JACKIE VAN METER, JESSICA ZIVKOVITCH Advertising Business Manager RICHARD YONG Sales Support and Development EMMA BEHRINGER, ANA BLAGOJEVIC, EMILY BURDETT, CRISTINA CABIELLES, BRITTANY CORBETT, DARA HIRSH, KARA KEARNS, KELSEY MARRUJO, MICHELLE MASS, NICHOLE MAURER, RUE MCBRIDE, STEPHEN OSTROWSKI, ELENA SENDOLO, ALEXANDRA WINTER

MARKETING, PROMOTIONS, AND PUBLIC RELATIONS

Vice President of Marketing and Public Relations LANA BERNSTEIN Vice President of Integrated Marketing EMILY MCLINTOCK Director of Integrated Marketing ROBIN KEARSE Integrated Marketing Manager JIMMY KONTOMANOLIS Director of Creative Services SCOTT ROBSON Promotions Art Designers DANIELLE MORRIS, CARLY RUSSELL Event Marketing Directors AMY FISCHER, HALEE HARCZYNSKI, MELINDA JAGGER, LAURA MULLEN, KIMMY WILSON Event Marketing Managers ANTHONY ANGELICO, MONIKA KOWALCZYK, CRISTINA PARRA Event Marketing Coordinator BROOKE BIDDLE Event Marketing Assistant SHANA KAUFMAN

ADVERTISING PRODUCTION

Vice President of Manufacturing MARIA BLONDEAUX Director of Positioning and Planning SALLY LYON Positioning and Planning Manager TARA MCCRILLIS Assistant Production Director PAUL HUNTSBERRY Production Manager BLUE UYEDA Production Artists ALISHA DAVIS, MARISSA MAHERAS, DARA RICCI Distribution Manager MATT HEMMERLING Fulfillment Manager DORIS HOLLIFIELD Traffic Supervisor ESTEE WRIGHT Traffic Coordinators JEANNE GLEESON, MALLORIE SOMMERS Circulation Research Specialist CHAD HARWOOD

FINANCE

Controller DANIELLE BIXLER Finance Directors AUDREY CADY, LISA VASSEUR-MODICA Director of Credit and Collections CHRISTOPHER BEST Senior Credit and Collections Analyst MYRNA ROSADO Senior Billing Coordinator CHARLES CAGLE Senior Accountant LILY WU Junior Accountants KATHY SABAROVA, NEIL SHAH, NATASHA WARREN

ADMINISTRATION, DIGITAL, AND OPERATIONS

Director of Operations MICHAEL CAPACE Director of Human Resources STEPHANIE MITCHELL Executive Assistant ARLENE GONZALEZ Digital Media Developer MICHAEL KWAN Digital Producer ANTHONY PEARSON Facilities Coordinator JOUBERT GUILLAUME Chief Technology Officer JESSE TAYLOR Desktop Administrators ZACHARY CUMMO, EDGAR ROCHE

EDITORS-IN-CHIEF

J.P. ANDERSON (Michigan Avenue), SPENCER BECK (Los Angeles Confidential), ANDREA BENNETT (Vegas), KATHY BLACKWELL (Austin Way), KRISTIN DETTERLINE (Philadelphia Style), ERIN LENTZ (Aspen Peak), LISA PIERPONT (Boston Common), JARED SHAPIRO (Ocean Drive), ELIZABETH E. THORP (Capitol File), SAMANTHA YANKS (Hamptons)

PUBLISHERS

JOHN M. COLABELLI (Philadelphia Style), LOUIS F. DELONE (Austin Way), ALEXANDRA HALPERIN (Aspen Peak), DEBRA HALPERT (Hamptons), SUZY JACOBS (Capitol File), GLEN KELLEY (Boston Common), COURTLAND LANTAFF (Ocean Drive), ALISON MILLER (Los Angeles Confidential), DAN USLAN (Michigan Avenue), JOSEF VANN (Vegas)

Managing Partner JANE GALE Chairman and Director of Photography JEFF GALE Senior Vice President and Chief Financial Officer JOHN P. KUSHNIR Chief Executive Officer KATHERINE NICHOLLS Copyright 2014 by Niche Media Holdings, LLC. All rights reserved. Gotham magazine is published eight times per year. Reproduction without permission of the publisher is prohibited. The publisher and editors are not responsible for unsolicited material, and it will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication subject to Gotham magazine’s right to edit. Return postage must accompany all manuscripts, photographs, and drawings. To order a subscription, please call 866-891-3144. For customer service, please inquire at gotham@pubservice.com. To distribute Gotham at your business, please e-mail magazinerequest@nichemedia.net. Gotham magazine is published by Niche Media Holdings, LLC T: 646-835-5200 F: 212-780-0003

niche media holdings: 100 Church Street, Seventh Floor, New York, NY 10007

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letter from the editor-in-chief

With philanthropist Jean Shafiroff at the Niche Media and Gotham cover party celebrating Peter Max’s covers for our magazines. The art was auctioned on Charitybuzz to benefit The Humane Society of the United States; with super photographer Christophe von Hohenberg at the City College Center for the Arts launch. Christophe just published a terrific book, Another Planet: New York Portraits 1976–1996; chatting with Wayne Pacelle, president of The Humane Society.

Like many peopLe , I like to

While Peter Max created covers for all Niche titles, I was most partial to the one he designed for Gotham.

read three or four books at the same time. Maybe that shows a bit of commitment phobia (how can you spend five to seven hours—what you need to get through a typical novel—with just one author?), or the fact that the fragmented info feeds and hyper-multitasking of the Twitter age have reduced my normally short attention span to nil. As I write this, I’m finishing books by Donna Tartt (The Goldfinch), Michael Lewis (Flash Boys: A Wall Street Revolt), and Emily Gould (And the Heart Says Whatever). An unlikely trio, for sure, but each writer, with his or her distinctive voice, has something—funny, infuriating, sad, remarkable—to say about New York and its glittery toughness. Gould’s memoir essays underscore how daunting millennial New York can be for twentysomethings trying to get a foothold here;

Lewis’s Flash Boys showed how a group of relentless traders took on the biggest players in the city’s financial market at considerable career risk. But Gould, like Flash Boys hero Brad Katsuyama, now IEX Group CEO, toughs it out—she is now one of the most compelling writers of her generation; Katsuyama did nothing less than turn the world’s attention to rigged US stock markets. And in the realm of fiction, Tartt’s wily protagonist, Theo, survives the harsh whims of fate in post-9/11 New York. The subtext of a lot of what I’m reading is that New York, regardless of your age, background, or profession, isn’t easy—it probably never has been. But if you push through long and hard enough, as so many talents and achievers highlighted in this issue demonstrate, the city rewards you in ways no other place on the planet can.

catherine sabino

Follow me on Twitter @csabino and on gotham-magazine.com.

photography by ben gabbe/getty Images for Gotham magazIne (max, shafIroff, pacelle); DavID Dupuy (von hohenberg)

from left:

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THE SEIKO NATION WELCOMES ITS FIRST BOUTIQUE IN NEW YORK CITY

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letteR from the publisher

from left: With Peter Max at the Gotham Summer issue cover party. A portion of the proceeds from the auction of Max’s covers for Niche Media magazines benefited The Humane Society of the

For me, September SignalS a Sort oF de Facto new Year . Unlike the

abbreviated days of early January, the ninth month combines the thrill of “back to school” with a “ roll up your sleeves” attitude. It’s the time when New Yorkers knowingly prepare for the momentum required by the season that kicks off the final quarter of the calendar year. Thus, it seems altogether fitting that my inaugural venture as publisher of Gotham—a magazine celebrating the exceptional personalities of Manhattan, a capital of creative, innovative strivers of all ages, backgrounds, and professions— will involve putting together the September issue. Jumping into the new role and attending Gotham events, I found myself in the company of several idols from my youth—Peter Max and dancers from the Bolshoi Ballet. Max joined us for the summer issue cover party at the Loews Regency hotel, where he unveiled his colorful city covers for all 10 Niche Media titles to be

auctioned for the benefit of The Humane Society. His incandescent images were accessible to me as a child in the ’70s. Now viewed through my longer lens of experience, I can’t help but love his optimism and the interplay of a psychedelic cosmos and winged men. Max’s age of love viewpoint seems utterly appropriate for New York, a city now rebuilt and largely recovered from the tragic events of 9/11. Thirteen years since our September heartbreak, the artist’s warm-hued depiction of Gotham, where the earth aligns with the stars and sunshine prevails, seems a welcome perspective to me. At the midnight afterparty held at the Russian Tea Room to honor the Bolshoi Ballet’s opening-night performance and long-awaited return to the Lincoln Center stage, Jed Bernstein, president of Lincoln Center, warmly welcomed the company. The evening also celebrated the outstanding performance of the American-born David Hallberg, a principal dancer with the Bolshoi who danced the part of

Prince Siegfried in Swan Lake. This month, I look forward to our next big fête, toasting the release of our September cover with actress Elisabeth Moss, who plays the Mad Men heroine Peggy Olson. Moss has been branching out with a variety of film projects, like The One I Love, which was released in August. What professional woman in New York hasn’t rooted for Peggy as she struggles to fight for recognition among her fellow ad creatives and tame her own demons to rise to the top of the advertising business? In that role, Moss downplays her disappointments when colleagues underestimate her abilities, but we have all been there! Moss won’t be revealing secrets of the season finale, but we know we will root for her until the very last minute of the very last show.

dawn dubois

photography by ben gabbe/getty Images for gotham magazIne (max)

United States; Jed Bernstein and me at the Bolshoi Ballet afterparty, held at The Russian Tea Room; with Diego Avanzato, Genesis Division Manager at Palm Bay Imports NE, and Marc Taub President & CEO of Palm Bay Imports launching “Au Contraire” Sonoma wines, a tribute to beloved founder of Palm Bay Imports David S.Taub..

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// september 2014

Jon haMM actor

Jennifer Wright writer

Mark ellWood writer

Jennifer robbins photographer

richard nalley writer

As the dashing and troubled Don Draper on AMC’s hit show mad men, the Golden Globe Award–winning actor prepares for the show’s last season with a number of movie roles, including the upcoming adaptation of the sound and the fury. Hamm interviews mad men costar and good friend Elisabeth Moss for this issue’s cover story (page 100). What do most people not know about Elisabeth that you revealed in the interview? That she’s an aficionado of older films and older music and by that I don’t mean music from the ’70s—it’s the ’50s, ’40s, and ’30s even. Did any of her answers surprise you? How she would kill to work with the Coen brothers, but we can cut that out because otherwise the fact checker will have it on record.

Jennifer Wright is a columnist for the new york observer, a regular contributor to the new york post, and the author of the forthcoming it ended badly: the 13 worst break-ups in history (Macmillan), due out next summer. This issue, she covers restaurant hot spots starting on page 90. What are some of your favorite restaurants? For a girl’s night out, ABC Cocina, as everybody looks good under whimsical chandelier light. For a romantic evening, I love One if by Land, Two if by Sea—you just have to avoid getting distracted by the couple proposing next to you and focus on the beef Wellington. And for an all-night party: Beauty & Essex. Pink Champagne being handed out in the bathrooms makes a party. Why do you like writing about food? Like Nora Ephron, I can’t imagine being friends with anyone who is not constantly anticipating their next meal. If you invite me to supper, I can’t sing for it, but I can do birdcalls, which I’ve been told are terrifying.

British-born, New York– based Mark Ellwood writes regularly for the financial times weekend and wall street Journal weekend and travels extensively for condé nast traveler and departures. He interviews Jenné Lombardo in this issue’s “View From the Top” (page 63). Did anything surprise you about Jenné? She still has a goofy enthusiasm for fashion that is refreshing— she hasn’t succumbed to the chilly hauteur that seems to characterize so many fashion lifers. What do you like about fall in New York? It is my favorite season. I’ll never forget the first year I arrived here from London. I was walking down Second Avenue one evening after a brief burst of rain, and the leaf-covered street glistened while yellow cabs sped by. I felt like I was walking through a Woody Allen movie.

Native New Yorker and photographer Jennifer Robbins has traveled the world for clients including gQ, interview, Neiman Marcus, cosmopolitan, and Bloomingdale’s. Robbins shoots this issue’s feature “Spin Class” (page 120) on the fashion world’s hottest DJs. What were the challenges of the shoot? Not knowing what you are going to walk into when you are asked to shoot at a location you have never seen, with a person you have never met —there’s an excitement to that. It keeps my creative chops pretty sharp. A memorable moment? Meeting Marjorie [Gubelmann] was definitely a highlight. She played music the entire time, so I got to dance in between my shots, which is my favorite thing do to on these assignments.

Richard Nalley, editorat-large for forbeslife, has reported on lifestyle and culture for dozens of publications, including forbes, the new york times, and esquire. He writes this issue’s feature on Ralph Lauren on page 116. What interested you in writing this piece? Ralph Lauren the brand is notable not just for staying fresh after all these decades but also as arguably the most solidly managed company in fashion. It came as a surprise to me in reporting this story—and I suspect to many others—that there has never been a Polo for women; this fall’s introduction is a big deal in fashion branding. What’s your take on autumn in New York? Fall is really the season of renewal—more so than spring. Everybody returns to the city with new energy and resolutions.

“fall is really the season of renewal—more so than spring. everybody returns to the city with a new energy and resolutions.” —richard nalley

photography by Fernando pereiragomes (Wright), andreas branch/patrickmcmullan.com (hamm)

...Without WhoM this issue would not have been possible

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the list september 2014

Jessie Mueller

Jed Walentas

Bryan Cranston

Isabelle Ealet

Robert Zimmerman

Rachel Noerdlinger

Mark Lyall Grant

Payal Kadakia

Michael Bruno

Jonah Peretti

Jason Sudeikis

Marie Chandoha

David Gilboa

Thia Breen

Ángel Di María

Hiroki Kuroda

Neil Blumenthal

Dianne Vavra

Jordy Leiser

Ashley Tisdale

Sebastiano Cardi

Caroline Herrera

Mary Callahan Erdoes

Martin Amis

Robert Thomson

Emily Gould

Soo Chan

Jeff Richmond

Michael Kors

Hank Greenberg

Dottie Herman

Gerard Piqué

Ernie Arias

David Easton

Barry Sternlicht

Meg Connolly

Karlie Kloss

Kenneth Chenault

Pete Cashmore

Christopher Buckley

Jed Bernstein

Rochelle Weitzner

Jonathan Hefter

Amir Arison

Samantha Power

Michael Cera

Marc Taub

Colson Whitehead

Rebecca Minkoff

Wiley Cerilli

David Carr

Jennifer Egan

Maguy Maccario Doyle

Michel Spinellis

Andrew Rannells

Jack Schwartz

Alan Cumming

Nihal Mehta

Cara Delevingne

Aaron Schildkrout

Dan Silverman

Jeffrey Immelt

Tim Howard

Brian Schechter

Ib Petersen

Talib Kweli

Sophie Dahl

Van Scott

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STYLE The Style Setter

photography by randall Slavin; hair by joyce cohen; makeup by berta camal

DiamonD Jubilee

Donna aran revolutionized how contemporary women dress. now she celebrates 30 years at the top of the fashion industry with a fall collection that references her debut designs and an ever-expanding portfolio of philanthropic causes. By ElizaBEth E. thorp

This year marks the 30th anniversary of Donna Karan’s eponymous label at the top of the fashion industry.

“It seems like yesterday [that it all began]. I’m writing my autobiography right now and reflecting back on the whole thing,” says Donna Karan of her eponymous label’s 30th anniversary. Gotham joined Karan in the West Village at the Stephan Weiss Studio, named for her late artist-entrepreneur husband, to discuss the milestone year, her new collection, and her philanthropic passions. The Urban Zen Center, headquartered at the studio, raises consciousness and advocates for change in the areas of well-being, cultural preservation, and children’s empowerment. continued on paGe 38

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STYLE The Style Setter

The three-story Donna Karan New York flagship store at 819 Madison Avenue.

Models walk in the runway finale of Karan’s Fall-Winter 2014 colleciton.

Donna Karan’s evocative sketch for her 2014 Fall collection.

continued from page 37

When Karan started her design house in 1984, she said the initial goals were modest— to create a little company that filled some fashion needs— “trying to make a pair of jeans that actually fit,” for example, and stylish clothes for real women who were then entering the workforce in record numbers. Her tightly edited core collection, Seven Easy Pieces (a bodysuit served

as the fundamental element) that could take women from day to night, revolutionized the way urban women dressed. Her spot-on insights into the needs of working women as they climbed the ranks helped fuel her success, propelling the company into the forefront of American fashion design. Those early design principles impact her collections today. For Fall

2014, she says the scarf dresses are among her favorites. “It’s all about the scarf and the body, and harks back to the original collection with the bodysuit. You can cover up what you want to cover up and show what you want to show. You can go from day to night easily with the tailoring and the chiffon.” Early in her career, Karan says she realized that while she could dress people, she

wasn’t addressing their inner or personal needs. She asked herself, How do you bring consciousness to consumers, to the retailers, and to the world at large? Karan has supported many causes over the years, among them finding a cure for ovarian cancer. Last April, she lost her assistant, Clarissa Black to the disease. Today, Karan says she remains as committed to her

philanthropic work as she is to her company. When asked if she has any specific goals for the next three decades, Karan responds, “It’ll take more than 30 years to accomplish all I want to do—my Urban Zen Foundation is just taking off; I have endless design ideas, wellness centers I’d love to create, so many new places to travel. Like I always say, it’s what I haven’t done that excites me. To be continued….” G

photography courtesy of Donna Karan international

How do you bring consciousness to consumers, to tHe retailers, and to tHe world at large?” —donna karan

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STYLE Accessories MENSWEAR Clean masculine lines give a new edge to day wear.

bold moves

fall’s seriously stylish bags and shoes offer edgy new york city glamour, day and night. PhotograPhy by bill DioDato

StyliNg by KaDEEM grEaVES

FASHION EDITOR: FAYE POWER; MODElS: VAlERY lESSARD AND VERA CASAgRANDE FOR PARTS MODElS

Coat, Stella McCartney ($2,745). 112 Greene St., 212-255-1556; stellamccartney.com. Blouse, Ralph Lauren Black Label ($325). 888 Madison Ave., 212-4348000; ralphlauren.com. Pants, Brunello Cucinelli ($955). 379 Bleecker St., 212-627-9202; brunellocucinelli.com. Handbag, Giorgio Armani ($2,195). 760 Madison Ave., 212-988-9191; armani.com. Loafer pumps, Jason Wu ($1,140). Bergdorf Goodman, 754 Fifth Ave., 212-753-7300; bergdorfgoodman.com

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STYLE Accessories This season, silver adds cool shimmer.

Dress, Stella McCartney ($1,995). 112 Greene St., 212-255-1556; stella mccartney.com. Bracelet, Lanvin ($2,290). 815 Madison Ave., 646-439-0381; lanvin.com. Handbag ($3,400) and wedges (price on request), Prada. 575 Broadway, 212-334-8888; prada.com

BLACK & WHITE Contrasting tones make a bold statement.

Top, Rag & Bone ($295). 119 Mercer St., 212-219-2204; rag-bone.com. Pants, Ralph Lauren Black Label ($665). 888 Madison Ave., 212-434-8000; ralphlauren.com. Bag box, Chanel ($12,000). 15 E. 57th St., 212-355-5050; chanel.com. Pumps, Manolo Blahnik ($955). 31 W. 54th St., 212-582-3007; manoloblahnik.com

DARK FLORALS

LASER CUT

Autumn flowers are in bloom.

Sleek graphic patterns define modern fall style.

Dress, Hermès ($5,500). 691 Madison Ave., 212-751-3181; hermes.com. Clutch, Dries Van Noten ($2,015). Bergdorf Goodman, 754 Fifth Ave., 212-753-7300; bergdorfgoodman .com. Pumps, Jimmy Choo ($625). 716 Madison Ave., 212-759-7078; jimmychoo.com

Dress, Valentino ($5,200). 693 Fifth Ave.; valentino.com. Minaudière, Reece Hudson ($1,295). Barneys New York, 660 Madison Ave., 212-826-8900; barneys.com. Booties, Christian Louboutin ($1,595). 965 Madison Ave., 212-396-1884; christianlouboutin.com

FASHION EDITOR FAYE POWER; MODElS: VAlERY lESSARD AND VERA CASAgRANDE FOR PARTS MODElS

FUTURISTIC

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Fendi, the Roman luxury design house, long a mainstay in Midtown, recently debuted a pop-up boutique much farther south, in the heart of Soho. “We are excited to open the #fendisoho in one of the key shopping destinations in the world,” says Pietro Beccari, chairman and CEO of Fendi. “This pop-up will give a fresh energy to the brand and will offer the opportunity to reach a cool clientele that will be welcomed into a unique environment.” Expect a new visual and merchandise theme monthly. 122 Greene St.; fendi.com

A NEW YORK FLASHBACK 18k Noble gold Rock Season emerald and diamond bracelet, H. Stern ($122,200). 645 Fifth Ave., 212-655-3910; hstern.net

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Dolce & Gabbana ($2,495). 825 Madison Ave., 212-2494100; dolcegabbana.com

A HOT STOP IN SOHO

just in

Aquazzura, the Italian cult shoe brand, is joining forces with style icon Olivia Palermo to create an exclusive capsule collection of six luxurious and lust-worthy footwear styles for fall. Inspired by the brand’s archives and Palermo’s personal style, the collection is described as the ultimate “survival pack” with shoes for any occasion. The styles range from statement jeweled sandals and perfect pumps to boots in ankle- and knee-high lengths. “I think it is no secret that I love a good shoe,” states Palermo. “I hope women of all ages have as much fun wearing them as we did creating them.” Saks Fifth Avenue, 611 Fifth Ave., 212-753-4000; saks.com

//arm candy //

Prada ($3,200). 724 Fifth Ave., 212-6640010; prada.com

Atelier Swarovski has collaborated with Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren to create Atelier Swarovski by Viktor & Rolf, a line of graphic, texturized accessories consisting of bold rings, geometric earrings, statement cuffs, and sleek chokers, many inspired by ﬁlm noir—style images of New York. atelierswarovski.com

FALL’S BEST CARRYALLS turn up in neutrals from pewter to gray.

Giorgio Armani ($2,395). 760 Madison Ave., 212-988-9191; armani.com

Ralph Lauren ($2,500). 888 Madison Ave., 212-4348000; ralphlauren.com

Nina Ricci ($1,850). Barneys New York, 660 Madison Ave., 212-826-8900; barneys.com

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAM DEITCH (FENDI INTERIOR); XICO BUNY (EMERALD BRACELET); SUSAN MACEDO DBA SUSAN MAC (FILM NOIR)

AQUAZZURA TEAMS UP WITH OLIVIA PALERMO FOR A NEW SHOE LINE.

Rock ’n’ Roll meets butterflies in the launch of H. Stern’s new Rock Season collection, available in September from H. Stern, the Brazilian luxury jeweler. Bird and butterflyinspired designs were crafted in various shades of gold to reflect seasonal colors. Warmer tones for warmer months—rose gold with cognac diamonds—are balanced with the jeweler’s 18k champagnehued Noble gold, studded with emeralds and diamonds. To add a modern note, there’s a touch of punk rock, too, with dark metal finishes and spike shapes. Rock Season includes a full range of jewelry with earrings, rings, pendants, and bracelets.

// FALL DEBUT //

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STYLE Sentiments

Elizabeth Taylor became an ardent fan of Bulgari while filming in Rome in the early 1960s. She even had a private room at the Via Condotti boutique to try on the jewels.

Eternal Elegance

BULGARI HAS ENCHANTED TASTEMAKERS WITH ITS EXQUISITE PIECES FOR 130 YEARS, ESTABLISHING A GLAMOROUS HERITAGE AND CREATING A LEGACY OF EXCEPTIONAL LUXURY. BY ROBERTA NAAS Since 1884, Bulgari has captivated the most celebrated people in the world with its style and elegance. This year, as the legendary Italian brand marks its 130th anniversary, it embarks on a series of projects that recount its rich past with a visionary eye to the future. In fact, Bulgari hired New York’s renowned architect Peter Marino to renovate its flagship store on famed Via Condotti in Rome. The

redesign—with rich woods, Italian marble, and a new watch room—will serve as the inspiration for all future Bulgari boutique openings. Marino even paid close attention to a small secret room with sliding doors that was the “salottino Taylor,” where Elizabeth Taylor often spent time during her work in Rome on the film epic Cleopatra. The salon was reachable through a secret door from a private

courtyard. While it has been closed for decades, Marino brought it back to service, ready for today’s VIPs. Additionally, Bulgari created a lavish and incredible anniversary collection of jewelry, timepieces, and accessories. “Celebrating 130 years of Bulgari is particularly meaningful here in the city because New York was the first US store location,” says Alberto Festa, president of Bulgari North America.

Bulgari Bulgari (incorporating the brand name into the designs), Tubogas (malleable gold coil designs), and Serpenti (the beloved serpent collection). As it built its legacy, Bulgari also amassed a loyal global following of socialites, celebrities, politicians, and

The façade of Bulgari on Via Condotti in the 1920s; the entrance to the newly refurbished Taylor room, where Elizabeth Taylor spent time with Gianni Bulgari while filming Cleopatra; the Serpenti watch from Bulgari’s High Jewelry collection is crafted in 18k pink gold with pavé diamonds and turquoise (price on request). CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE:

aristocrats. Clare Boothe Luce, the glamorous American ambassador to Italy, was fond of the brand, as were Sophia Loren, Jayne Mansfield, and Audrey Hepburn. Bulgari creations captivated men, too— celebrities such as Richard Burton, Eddie Fisher, and Kirk Douglas frequented the store in search of the perfect gifts. And American artist Andy Warhol, ever obsessed with color and design, never missed a chance to visit the store when in Rome, calling Bulgari the “best exhibition of contemporary art.” “Bulgari is known for its use of big stones and for combining colors,” says Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari’s creative director. “When most houses were creating single-color gemstone necklaces and brooches, we were mixing gems and colors for artful presentations. It is very important for us to bring together rare stones with semiprecious stones of all colors for dramatic appeal. That is our signature.” 730 Fifth Ave., 212-315-9000; bulgari.com G

PHOTOGRAPHY BY REPORTERS ASSOCIÉS/GAMMA/GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY IMAGES (TAYLOR); COURTESY OF BULGARI (JEWELRY, TAYLOR ROOM)

“Today, Bulgari on Fifth Avenue is not only a flagship but also a representation of our heritage. This anniversary is especially momentous because it reminds us of Bulgari’s DNA and encourages us to think innovatively about the future of our brand.” Over the years, Bulgari has established its own inimitable style, one that is classic and timeless. Some of its most iconic designs, which form part of the 130th-anniversary collection, were developed in the latter half of the 20th century: Parentesi (using straight and curved interlocking elements),

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STYLE Fragrance Jean-Claude Ellena at his workshop in the south of France near Grasse, the perfume capital. below right: Ellena’s new fragrance, Cuir d’Ange, was inspired by Hermès’s fine leather goods, such as this Oxer saddle bag.

“I realIzed that each leather had a dIfferent scent, and the most beautIful smelled of flowers.” —jean-claude ellena

A stunning new frAgrAnce from Hermès tAkes its inspirAtion from iconic leAther hAndbAgs—And sensuAl french literAture. by mandi norwood When Jean-Claude Ellena became “the nose” of Hermès 10 years ago, his first port of call was the maison’s leather vault in Paris. Providing specialized storage for the skins that form the brand’s iconic luggage and handbags, “it was a marvelous treasure,” Ellena recalls, “an Ali Baba’s cave, where each piece of leather was arranged by characteristic and color. “There I saw and touched

the most beautiful leather, even some that weighed only a few grams in my hand, so soft that I hardly dared to touch it,” he says. “I realized that each leather, tanned naturally, had a different scent, and the most beautiful and expensive pieces smelled of flowers…. I was seized by happiness and decided right then that I wanted to create a perfume inspired by leather.” This month, 67-year-old

Ellena’s dream is realized in the form of Cuir d’Ange (angel leather), a fragrance that’s both gentle and assertive, shifting between delicate heliotropes and woody hawthorn, bashful violets and narcissi, and unrestrained musk. As with all fragrances, there are layers of notes: the top notes that provide the first fragrant impression, the middle ones that form the

with his own epiphany at the Hermès vault, provided the compelling concept Ellena needed for his next fragrance masterpiece. Tell us more about the connection you make between literature and fragrance. I am a writer of smells. For me, perfume is more a poetic creation than a concept. It touches us, moves us, fires our imagination. I have a writer’s approach. I tell stories with perfume. Perfumers all use the same ingredients and raw materials. It’s their writing talent that makes the difference. Why are you inspired by the author Jean Giono? I see literature—with a capital L—as significant. It has always fueled my imagination, but it’s true I have a special relationship with Jean Giono, which must derive from our Provençal origins and how we understand the world. Why did it take 10 years to create Cuir d’Ange? It’s a slow process—and very demanding. The hardest

photography by richard schroeder (ellena); courtesy of hermès (bag, perfume). opposite page: courtesy of hermès

Eau My Word!

heart of the scent seconds after application, and the base notes that linger long after the perfume has dried on the skin. With Cuir d’Ange, the first spray bursts into a generous—but not overly floral—bouquet that’s just sweet enough for a woman and yet robust enough for a man. Minutes later, it settles into a gorgeous veil of caramel, pipe tobacco, and a sprinkling of breezy wildflowers. It feels beautiful on the skin, too, like cool, expensive, powder-soft suede... “Angel leather,” asserts Ellena, referencing the words of early-20th-century French author Jean Giono, who has been a source of inspiration for Ellena for over three decades. In his autobiography, Jean le Blue (Blue Boy), Giono describes his father in his cobbler’s workshop, “busy making shoes in angel leather for some god with a thousand feet.” For Ellena, who compares his process of creating fragrances to that of writing a book, Giono’s phrase “angel leather,” combined

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Jean-Claude Ellena uses the simplest tools—pen, paper, smelling strips—and his finely tuned nose to create fragrances for Hermès.

“I don’t tHInk SMellS HAve A gender Any More tHAn ColorS, SoundS, or tASteS do.... for Me, perfuMeS Are lIke workS of Art.” —jean-claude ellena thing is [figuring out] how I am going to translate the concept into a physical presence. Until the moment comes that the product matches the idea in my head, I put it aside; I come back to it later, I work on it. That’s why it can take 10 years. Cuir d’Ange is appealing for both women and men. How did you accomplish that? I don’t think smells have a gender, any more than colors, sounds, or tastes do. Unfortunately, societies have created codes that we find difficult to break from. These codes are a framework that helps us live in an increasingly complex world, but one from which we sometimes want to be free. For me, perfumes are

like works of art and, as such, aren’t intended for men or women, but for all mankind. In your book, The Diary of a Nose: A Year in the Life of a Parfumeur (Rizzoli, $25), you say there is a misconception that your perfumes contain only natural ingredients, nothing artificial. I see all ingredients as smells, whether they’re natural or artificial. I love them all. I don’t differentiate between them, so long as they serve my idea. The advent of chemical ingredients has given us a much broader olfactory palette. How lucky we are! What are your own personal favorite scents? The smell of human skin without perfume—my wife’s

and my children’s. Tell us about your studio. Why did you choose to have it in Grasse? I live and work in the south of France near Grasse, the perfume capital. I was born there. It’s an incredible space, steeped in history, filled with light and smells. The workshop I come to every morning is a house designed in the ’60s and built into the side of a hill. The workshop is open; the doors are never closed. My work tools are sheets of paper, a pencil, a fountain pen, an eraser, smelling strips, and rotating smelling-strip holders. The laboratory is at the far end of the house, as far as possible from my office, so

that I’m not distracted by the smell. I work exclusively from memory. You have created many iconic fragrances, including Van Cleef & Arpels’s First and Bulgari’s Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert. Do you consider Cuir d’Ange to be a new classic? I sincerely hope so—to have a perfume that stands outside of time, a perfume beyond fashions and trends. What’s the difference between French and American tastes in fragrance? For Americans, the notion of cleanliness dominates. Pleasure is allowed if it’s useful—for example, smelling clean and having

good longevity—whereas French-style perfuming likes a bit of controversy and the body’s own smells. How did you finally realize your vision for Cuir d’Ange. Was it a “voilà!” moment? Suddenly, an instant will come when you say, “That’s it! That’s what I was looking for.” Creating a fragrance is a terrible and terrifying process because I’m the kind of person who is continually dissatisfied until that moment comes. And then the pleasure is very short. Like sex—French-style! Cuir d’Ange is number 12 in Hermès’s Hermessence collection of perfumes and is available exclusively in Hermès stores. 15 Broad St., 212-785-3030; 691 Madison Ave., 212-751-3181; hermes.com G

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STYLE Time Keeper

Seizing the MoMent Since capturing the public’s attention 20 years ago in The Mask, Cameron Diaz has been one of Hollywood’s most successful actresses, starring in blockbuster films like There’s Something About Mary, Being John Malkovich, and Gangs of New York. She’s also a noted style maven, turning up in the front row at fashion shows, both here and abroad, including a high-profile stint during Paris Haute Couture week. Since 2012, Diaz has been brand ambassador for Swiss watch brand TAG Heuer. Recently, in an exclusive interview with Gotham, Diaz spoke about her passions— she has been a strong supporter of women’s rights throughout her career—and making time for everything she wants to accomplish in her life. How do you divide your time between your personal life and work life? CD: Because I am fortunate enough to make a living doing what I love and get to participate in things I am passionate about, I don’t really ever consider myself working. I’m so blessed to be doing what I do that it doesn’t feel like work. Tell us about your involvement with the United Nations organization, UN Women. CD: UN Women is fighting for equality for women all over the world, especially for women who don’t have anybody to fight for them. In America, we are born with rights so many women will never know. This is something we take for granted. So when you look at [unfair situations], you can’t in good conscience not help. I am passionate about this organization and its fight for gender equality. It is all about empowering women. Watches tell time, of course, but what other benefit do they give you?

CD: I think of a watch as something purposeful on your wrist that also looks beautiful. It’s subtle, maybe even more of a subconscious thing. There is an empowerment to wearing a watch. It lets you track [the] one thing that is so important—moments—in a beautiful way. Everybody is keeping track of time: How much

more time do I have before I have to go? Before I have to pick someone up or see someone I love? It is all about the moments in life. Does your relationship with TAG Heuer predate your ambassadorship, and does your work with TAG Heuer help your cause? CD: I have always been fond of TAG Heuer. It is the [brand of the] first watch I bought for myself when I was 18. I had just become certified for scuba diving and was going on my first dive trip for two weeks. I bought a men’s dive watch and have worn [it] every day. Now that I work with TAG, I also have a Monaco, an Aquaracer Lady, and a beautiful Link Lady watch that are more like jewelry. But they are also utilitarian and help me maintain my schedule and keep me on time doing all of the things I love to do. Another thing I love about the brand, and part of the reason I signed on, is that TAG Heuer is very philanthropic, so a portion of the proceeds of the watch sales for the new campaign I am in goes to UN Women. You divide your time between New York and LA. What do you like most about Manhattan? CD: LA is my home, where my family and a huge part of my life are. But I love the vibrancy of New York, and I particularly [love] the seasons. I make sure to skip in as often as I can at different times of the year. For more watch features and expanded coverage, go to gotham-magazine.com/watches. G left: Cameron Diaz’s watches of choice are the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Lady 27mm in steel and 18k rose gold, with a diamond bezel (pictured), and the Link Lady Full Diamond Bezel 29mm.

“There is an empowermenT To wearing a waTch. iT leTs you Track The one Thing ThaT is so imporTanT— momenTs—in a beauTiful way.” —cameron diaz

photography by rob Loud/getty Images for tag heuer (dIaz); courtesy of tag heuer (watch)

Cameron Diaz, brand ambassador for TaG Heuer, makes sure sHe finds Time for Her favoriTe cause. By RoBeRta Naas

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Where are they going?

Find out more about New Yorkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hidden places 212.269.2323 | www.MasterpieceCaterers.com

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STYLE Social Network “BARNEYS WINS FOR BEST SHOE SELECTION.” —LEANDRA MEDINE

Keeping Chic Fun LEANDRA MEDINE, AKA THE MAN REPELLER, SHARES HER FAVORITE NEW YORK HAUNTS. BY FAYE POWER Spotted in the front row during Fashion Weeks from New York to Paris, Leandra Medine, known for her wildly successful blog The Man Repeller, has given style reporting a witty and humorous new dimension. Following the 2010 launch of the blog, Medine published her first book, Man Repeller: Seeking Love, Finding Overalls, and was featured on Forbes’s 30 Under 30 list, Adweek’s Fashion’s Power 25, and Time’s 25 Best Blogs. Recently we asked the Manhattan-born Medine to open up her

address book for Gotham. When looking to add a special piece to her muchphotographed wardrobe, Medine seeks out Matta (241 Lafayette St., 212-343-9399; mattany.com). “They sell the most beautiful caftans and colorful, beaded jewelry and sandals,” she says. “Recently I bought a blue and purple caftan and wasn’t sure where or why I’d wear it, but have found that it’s the most effective solace for the city’s heat. And that it looks kind of offbeat with white sneakers and structured sandals,

which, of course, I love.” Medine admits she can never resist a stop at Fivestory (18 E. 69th St., 212-2881338; fivestoryny.com) and the nearby Barneys (660 Madison Ave., 212-826-8900; barneys.com). “Fivestory is like its own little world, replete with trinkets waiting to become sentimental and interesting, and original ready-to-wear, too. Barneys wins for best shoe selection,” she says. Medine’s schedule is always hectic, but she makes time for a calming moment

and a delicious cup of coffee in the West Village at Jack’s Stir Brew Coffee (138 W. 10th St., 212-9290821; jacksstirbrew.com). “It’s quaint and easy to work from there [as well as] people watch, which is my favorite activity after karate,” she says. Ever on the hunt for her next must-read, Medine usually finds what she’s looking for at McNally Jackson Books (52 Prince St., 212-274-1160; mcnallyjackson.com). “It fuses a world of very niche magazines— fashion and beyond—and has excellent collections of humorous essays, which is my favorite type of book,” she says. “It doesn’t hurt that the store is just around the corner from Sant

Ambroeus (265 Lafayette St., 212-966-2770; sant ambroeus.com), which makes an excellent iced latte with almond milk.” For gorgeous floral arrangements, Medine calls New York florist TTH Blooms (@TTHBlooms on Instagram). “Taylor Tomasi Hill [former style and accessories director at Marie Claire and former creative director at Moda Operandi] recently started this small company. She organizes mini arrangements that are incredible,” Medine says. “They are so thoughtful and demonstrate her talent with color and texture. All her arrangements get loads of compliments. Some people just have that magic touch.” G

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ASTRID STAWIARZ/GETTY IMAGES (MEDINE)

FROM LEFT: Leandra Medine, founder of the successful blog, The Man Repeller; Aurélie Bidermann Fine Indian Wedding Pendant Necklace; interior of Fivestory.

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B942 PRIMIGI Gotham USA print.pdf

29/07/14

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CULTURE Hottest Ticket TAVI GEVINSON,

CLASS NOTES

THIS IS OUR YOUTH RETURNS TO BROADWAY STARRING FASHION BLOGGER TAVI GEVINSON, MICHAEL CERA, AND ERAN CUL N. BY PATRICK PACHECO

When playwright Kenneth Lonergan is asked how he feels about his 12-year-old daughter reaching the age of the disaffected young protagonists in his drama This Is Our Youth, he replies, “I’m terrified.” The fact that the play, written in 1996, makes its Broadway debut this month may explain some of his panic, as it again brings to center stage Lonergan’s take on the complexities of adolescence, told in exquisitely confounding detail. Starring Michael Cera, Kieran Culkin, and Tavi Gevinson, the drama, set in the Reagan era, deals with a trio of affluent young New Yorkers who must navigate an anxiety-ridden minefield triggered when one character, 19-year-old Warren, steals $15,000 from his estranged father and takes refuge in the Upper West Side apartment of his

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL BROSILOW. ALL PHOTOS WERE TAKEN AT THE STEPPENWOLF THEATRE COMNPANY IN CHICAGO, JUNE 2014

who first gained media attention as a fashion blogger, stars in Kenneth Lonergan’s This Is Our Youth.

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Gevinson plays the part of an opinionated fashion student; Cera, a rich teenager estranged from his father.

Culkin brought the play to the attention of Cera when they were working on the film Scott Pilgrim vs. the World.

Cera and Culkin starred in the Chicago version of This Is Our Youth.

“It’s hard to dIslIke them even though they’re screwIng up.” —kenneth lonergan caustic and cocky drugdealing friend Dennis Ziegler. The jejune, testosterone-fueled atmosphere is diluted by the appearance of Jessica Goldman, a beautiful and opinionated fashion student with whom Warren is smitten. The anarchic drama of lost souls has always had a strong appeal to young actors, and Culkin was no exception. The 31-year-old actor, whose own dysfunctional family has spurred tabloid headlines, brought the play to the attention of

his buddy Michael Cera when they were starring in the 2010 film scott pilgrim vs. the world. Cera, who at 26 has made something of a career as a slacker on film ( Juno, youth in revolt) was struck by what he called “the language and authenticity” of this Is our youth, and the two starred in the 2012 Australian production as Dennis and Warren, respectively. When Broadway came into view, Gevinson mounted a strong bid to play Jessica. “I guess Jessica is often played by people who are older and have more distance from that

time, but I am living it,” says the 18-year-old Gevinson, who rose to fame as a fashion blogger and founder of the webzine Rookie and was featured in the film enough said. “I really am cocksure of all my opinions, and I really do feel anxious when challenged.” Those challenges come fast in a play whose black humor often stems from the thoughtless gibes the characters toss at each other, comments that are used as shields to hide paralyzing insecurities. “Young people at that age are impossible, arrogant,

stupid, and infuriating and yet Kenny was able to capture that with such compassion,” says director Anna D. Shapiro (august: osage county), who is also helming this revival. “They live in a world where vulnerability is considered a weakness, and they’ve had to develop thick skin. The question of the play is, ‘Why do I have to take this? Why is the goal of my life not to be hurt by the cruel things you are saying to me?’ And I think that to learn you deserve compassion, to admit that you are actually vulnerable and have feelings, is a

huge rite of passage.” Lonergan says it’s a mistake to think of his emotionally scarred characters as nihilists or drifters. “I don’t think they’re sure of where they’re going, but they’re self-aware.” He adds that he has great affection and even hope for Dennis, Warren, and Jessica. “It’s hard to dislike them even though they’re screwing up.” This Is Our Youth opens on september 11 and runs through January 4, 2015 at the cort theatre, 138 w. 48th st., 212-239-6200. G

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“It’s ironic that the landscape I did everything in my power to escape from would be the place where I’d rediscover my creative juices,” says Sting.

Sailing away

Sting previews The LasT ship on Broadway this month. By Thomas Connors

A great physique and amazing staying power aside, Sting continues to stretch his artistic muscle, taking a crack at musical theater with The Last Ship, which draws from the musician’s memory of his life in the seaside town of Wallsend, England. Recently, he offered us a little insight into the project, which begins previews this month. Did you leave home, in your head and in your heart, before you left it physically? Very early on. I lived in the shadow of a shipyard. As a child I’d wondered if [working there] was my destiny. It’s not where I wanted to be. It’s noisy, dangerous, highly toxic. I did everything in my power to escape. Got a guitar. Had a dream about being a musician, and I think I dreamt it hard enough that it actually happened. Why did you take a trip home now with this play? It’s ironic that the landscape I did everything in my power to escape from, and the community I abandoned and exiled myself from, would be the very place where I’d rediscover my creative juices, my muse, if you like. Following a long writer’s block— not writing songs for about eight years—I decided to just look back, to tell the story of the community I came from. Sidestepping my ego and giving voice to other people, allowed the floodgates to open and the songs just came out of me, almost fully formed. Was it difficult taking all those songs and crafting a story? It’s technically difficult to write songs that have to advance a narrative. That just hasn’t been my forte in 30, 40 years of being a songwriter. So it’s been a challenge working in this medium. But I’m learning; I’m learning all the time. I’m a good student. You’re working with John Logan, the Tonywinning writer of Red. You must have relied on him to fashion the connective tissue between songs. Yeah. I’ve never written dialogue before, so I wouldn’t trust myself with that. But having a collaborator of that caliber is fantastic. It was a very rangy piece before he honed it down. He’d say, “This has to be lopped off.” So songs I adored, characters I loved, were excised. But at the end of the day, this man is experienced and he’s confident enough to tell me that. I suspect many people will be surprised that you have chosen to work in the relatively conventional mode of musical theater. Are you a fan? My mother was a piano player, and she would bring Rodgers and Hammerstein albums into the house, which I played to death. So you scratch me, and I start singing Carousel. I love it.” The Last Ship begins previews on September 29, at The Neil Simon Theatre, 250 W. 52 St., 212-757-8646; neilsimontheatre.com G

photography by theo Wargo/getty Images for tony aWards productIons

CULTURE Hottest Ticket

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culture Art Full

A PAssAge to IndIA

Francesco clemente’s love affair with the subcontinent is the focus of a new exhibition at the rubin MuseuM of art. by stephanie murg When Francesco Clemente, the neo-Expressionist whose figurative imagery helped revitalize Italian art three decades ago, first visited India in 1973, he found traces of his native country. “The gods who left us thousands of years ago in Naples are still in India, so it’s like going home for me,” says the New York–based artist, who has frequently resided and worked in India over the past 40 years. “In India, I can feel what it was like [in Italy] many years ago.” Clemente’s enduring engagement with the subcontinent is the subject of an exhibition that opens September 5 at the Rubin Museum of Art. “Clemente has always been described as a nomadic artist,” says Rubin assistant curator Beth Citron, who organized the show. “He uses his art as part of a spiritual quest, not in a new-agey way but as a way to understand the self in relation to the fragmented society that he inherited growing up in Italy in the 1960s.” His largely figurative work brims with motifs from everyday life that coexist with more symbolic forms, imparting a mystical, dreamlike quality to even the most familiar subjects. In India, Clemente found what he describes as “an ideal working environment,” a vibrant world of fresh ideas and rich visual culture. He devoted his

time there in the late 1970s to drawings, watercolors, and pastels, and in the early and mid-’80s, he produced large-scale works on paper in collaboration with Tamil sign painters. Arranged to evoke the layout of an Indian temple (some architectural modifications were required), the exhibition invites visitors to approach Clemente’s work in a nonlinear fashion and make connections among recurring themes and subjects. His larger works line the walls, but there are also niches containing four new sculptures and a smaller room with two sets of works on paper. All of this is contextualized by an ambitious series of public programs, including a film series programmed by Clemente and an interactive app. “We wanted to take Clemente’s work out of the ‘white cube’ in which it has been exhibited—the Gagosians and Guggenheims of the world,” notes Citron. “A lot of work was created in places like a tent factory in Jodhpur and in small quarters where Clemente lived, and we’re trying to match the personality of our space with the personality of the work.” The exhibition “Francesco Clemente: Inspired by India” runs from September 5 through February 2 at the Rubin Museum of Art, 150 W. 17th St., 212-620-5000; rubinmuseum.org G

photography courtesy of rubin museum of art from the collection of barbara radice. art by francesco clemente

One of Francesco Clemente’s best-known works from his days in India, “The Four Corners” (1985) depicts a hand bearing a map of the world, with the main focus on Africa and Asia.

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Sebastião Salgado: Genesis (Taschen; $70) focuses on the much-lauded photojournalist with 200 images of wildlife, landscapes, and seascapes highlighting environmental and climate-change issues.

MOZART AT THE MET An illustration for Redbook, circa 1953, by Mac Conner.

Mad for Design

noted

“MAC CONNER: A NEW YORK LIFE” SEPTEMBER 10 THROUGH JANUARY 11, 2015. The Museum of the City of New York calls McCauley “Mac” Conner, an influential commercial artist, one of the original “Mad Men,” those Madison Avenue creatives who helped redefine American culture and style through advertising during the post-WWII boom years. The show will include more than 100 vintage sketches and hand-painted illustrations produced for advertising campaigns and women’s magazines, and demonstrate how top commercial artists like Conner contributed to the national conversation during the 1950s and ’60s. Museum of the City of New York, 1220 Fifth Ave., 212-534-1672; mcny.org

The Metropolitan Opera’s Opening Night Gala is always a high-wattage evening with the city’s power names in attendance. This year’s fête, to be held on Monday, September 22, will debut Le Nozze di Figaro with director Richard Eyre moving the action from the opera’s original 18th-century Seville to New York in the 1930s. James Levine conducts. Lincoln Center Plaza, 212-362-6000; metoperafamily.org

ABOVE: Bass baritone Ildare Abdrazakov in the title role of Mozart’s Le Nozze di Figaro. Richard Eyre’s new production of the opera, conducted by James Levine, opens the Met season on September 22.

// see, hear //

BRODERICK AND LANE TOGETHER AGAIN

Dynamic Broadway duo Matthew Broderick and Nathan Lane team up to scheme once again in Terrence McNally’s It’s Only a Play, previewing this month for an October opening. Stage luminaries F. Murray Abraham and Stockard Channing round out the cast. Gerald Schoenfeld Theatre, 236 W. 45th St., 212-239-6200

SOUNDS OF CINEMA

ITALIAN CINEMA IS NOTED for the brilliance of its directors—Fellini, Antonioni, Rossellini—and their groundbreaking visual styles. But the musical scores that accompanied their movies were pretty special, too. The Art of the Score: Film Week at the Philharmonic honors the lush soundtracks (accompanied by ﬁlm clips and graphics, LEFT) that were created for such iconic ﬁlms as 8 ½ and Cinema Paradiso. Renée Fleming, Josh Groban, and Joshua Bell perform in La Dolce Vita: The Music of Italian Cinema on September 16. Avery Fisher Hall, 10 Lincoln Center Plaza, 212-875-5656; nyphil.org

ILLUSTRATION COURTESY OF MCCAULEY CONNER ( REDBOOK); PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANNE DENIAU/METROPOLITAN OPERA (MOZART); COURTESY OF TASCHEN/PHOTOGRAPHS BY SEBASTIAO SALGADO/AMAZONASIMAGES (GENESIS); BRUCE GLIKAS/FILMMAGIC (BRODERICK). ILLUSTRATION BY GIUSEPPE RAGAZZINI, COURTESY OF SUGAR MUSIC (THE ART OF THE SCORE)

THE GENIUS OF GENESIS

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PEOPLE View from the Top Jenné Lombardo, a founder of MADE Fashion Week near Milk Studios, where the collections are held.

making it

photogRaphy by Josh Wool. haiR by taRek makki. makeup by colby smith

Combining the Crave-worthy ChiC of gwyneth with a foCused idealism, Jenné Lombardo, direCtor of new york’s made fashion week, wants nothing less than to Change how ColleCtions are presented in the City. by mark ellwood It was the early 1990s when Jenné Lombardo was trawling the thrift stores of Cleveland, her hometown, with her, clearly, patient mother. “She was a natural lady, who was never really interested in fashion or beauty—she preferred gardening,” Lombardo laughs. “So from the get-go, it was instilled in me to create my own looks.” Mrs. Lombardo would indulge her daughter’s clotheshorse-like obsession, taking her hunting for cast-offs to help re-create the grungy styles then igniting the catwalk. Then one day, rifling through the Midwest’s haul of plaid and dirty denim, she saw grunge princess Courtney Love just feet away. To Lombardo, it was a sign she’d found her own nirvana: fashion. The ambitious Midwestern teen set her sights on New York City—and 20 years later, that sighting proved prescient. Today, Lombardo is downtown’s most successful (and affable) It girl. Lombardo’s prominence among fashion insiders stems from her role helping to create MADE Fashion Week; though her official title is executive director and curator, it’s better to think of her simply as New York’s Queen of Cool. Along with cofounders Mazdack Rassi and Keith Baptista, Lombardo has helped reimagine how fashion designers can show and sell their collections via MADE. Conventional Fashion Weeks expect designers to bear the cost of planning and executing shows; at this alternative program, staged inside Chelsea’s Milk Studios and the Meatpacking Distict’s continued on page 64

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PEOPLE View from the Top “From the get-go, it was instilled in me to create my own looks.” —jenné lombardo

left: Jenné Lombardo with MADE cofounders Mazdack Rassi and Keith Baptista. below: Lombardo with Kendrick Lamar at a MADE Fashion Week party.

though—her first jobs in Manhattan included receptionist at a gym and street saleswoman for salon packages. She then worked on the business side of magazines like Interview and Tina Brown’s ballyhooed bellyflop Talk. It was the publisher there, Ron Galotti, who first offered her a chance. “He hired me as the publisher’s assistant and said, basically, ‘If I don’t fire you, and you don’t mess up, I’ll give you the job you’re looking for.’” Lombardo parlayed that access into a management role with makeup brand MAC, where she ringmistressed campaigns with Lady Gaga and Debbie Harry. MAC was sponsoring a nascent new fashion week downtown, offering free makeup for the backstage stations to help offset costs. That association evolved organically into the project now known as MADE. “It was completely irrational,” she laughs, “Rassi was getting married and I was pregnant.” She still multitasks. She’s not only a mom— Lombardo has three children, Valentino, Roxy, and Bowie, whose father is celebrity hairstylist Ric Pipino and whose names are tattooed on her arm—she’s also a consultant for brands via her Terminal Presents company. It specializes in marketing to millennials. “Companies are still trying to dictate to consumers what they think they need, when in fact they need to stop and listen,” she explains. “Make them feel like they’re the ones discovering it. Anything force-fed? They’ll reject it.” She’s already helped firms such as Target, Westfield, and W Hotels. One muchcraved client, though, still eludes her. “I’ve been trying to work with Dolly Parton for years,” Lombardo says. “She has a beautiful, clear point of view for anybody that doesn’t come from a lot of means and makes something of themselves.” Much the same could be said of Lombardo. G

SucceSS and the city Jenné Lombardo on: Her lucky break…

secret

Even though I

In warm weather,

didn’t realize it at

Café El Portal (174

the time, my lucky

Elizabeth St., 212-226-

break was working

4642). I like to have a

for the Versace Atelier

margarita outdoors.

women’s department.

best views

It really catapulted me into a completely different echelon of fashion people. The contacts I built up there? The exposure I had to everything? It was intense.

Hideaway

On the fre escape outside my bedroom, I can see the Empire State Building. It reminds me of how far I’ve come since I moved here, and how small I am in comparison to the city landscape!.

photography by greg kadel (made founders); david x prutting/bfany.com (lamar)

Standard hotel, sponsors offset those overheads. It’s mutually beneficial, connecting household brands with emerging talents while allowing those starting out an unmatched PR and sales platform. Every season, it’s Lombardo who channels fashion’s zeitgeist and assembles the roster that will show. After 10 seasons, her talentspotting record is impressive. Take Joseph Altuzarra, who showed his first couple of collections under Lombardo’s aegis; this year, after securing investment from Gucci owner Kering, he snagged womenswear designer of the year at the CFDA awards, fashion’s answer to the Oscars. Which designers did he beat to that accolade? Marc Jacobs and Alexander Wang—the latter of whom had also received MADE’s boosterish support when he began designing. Lombardo recalls a notorious afterparty she helped brainstorm for the designer’s show in September 2009; it was held in a gas station and included a performance by none other than Courtney Love. “I remember seeing thousands of people trying to get in and I couldn’t quite believe what we had created. I was thinking I hope we got all the gasoline out of the tanks, and that this doesn’t explode.” An early Hood by Air show was another MADE moment. “People were sitting in the audience and their eyes were watering. It felt like New York, at least from a fashion perspective, had come alive again. It was like the ’80s in New York, when creativity was at an all-time high.” It’s easy to see how lithe blonde Lombardo became the beloved fairy godmother to these fledgling fashion types, combining the crave-worthy cool of Gwyneth with a dreamy idealism; she’s part cheerleader, part drama geek. Lombardo doesn’t lack hustle,

COnTInuEd frOm PAgE 63

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PEOPLE Native

Phillip Lim on a stroll through Noho. “I like to keep to myself while walking,” he says. “You lose observation when you’re in a conversation.” below: Signage for one of his favorite streets.

Urban Renewal

How NoHo serves as respite aNd creative catalyst for desigNer PhilliP lim. Fashion designer Phillip Lim will come full circle when he opens his second—and largest—boutique in New York this month. The 3,500-square-foot space is located on a quiet stretch of Great Jones Street in Noho that, coincidentally, is one block from where he landed his first job with contemporary womenswear designer Katayone Adeli in 1997. In the years since, Lim has launched his own highly successful label, one that’s put a quirky, modern twist on sophisticated tailoring and won him accolades from the Council of Fashion Designers of America (not to mention a loyal following among such style influencers as Diane Kruger and Elle Fanning). The world around Lim is, of course, what sparks his imagination. “I’ve always been a visual person,” he says. “I’ll look at something that everyone has, but maybe cut the proportions down, or get it large or small, to make it more personal.” His is a design philosophy that rests on the belief that “it’s your eye, continued on page 68

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By Kari Molvar photography By eric ryan anderson

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PEOPLE Native

Lim says he finds Noho “an oasis of urban charm.”

“Bond and Great JoneS StreetS have maintained a Bohemian aura and myStique.” —phillip lim your hand, and what you continued from paGe 66 do with it that counts.” Here, Lim gives us a personal glimpse of Noho through his own eyes, as he takes us on a walking tour. “Right after school, my first job in the industry was with Katayone Adeli. I would design from Los Angeles for her flagship store in New York, and now that same spot is the location of my favorite furniture store, modernlink. It feels comfortable and natural to be back in this neighborhood. When I was first here, it was still rough. When Katayone opened, I thought, Oh, what are you doing here? But even though the area is lined with beautiful buildings now, I like that it still feels protected, and that the businesses are so varied. On my days off, when I spend time in the city, I always walk down bond street and Great Jones street. For some

reason, these two streets have retained a bohemian aura, a mystique you don’t find in other parts of the city. Just strolling around, you can still look up and wonder: Who lives behind these walls? I normally keep to myself when walking. You lose observation when you’re in conversation, so I stick to myself, and I don’t meet too many people, except shop owners that I’ve become friends with. William Lee at Modernlink has got me addicted to collecting furniture, and specifically masterpieces by cabinetmakers. The first crazy-big piece I bought was a black leather settee with a rosewood frame designed by Ib Kofod-Larsen; that’s so rare to find. And now he’s reupholstering this 1940s sofa for me in shearling, done in Denmark all by hand, down to the tacks. I love furniture and view it in the same way I see clothing. You live with and grow this

intimacy with it. It’s like when you put on a dress or sit in a piece of furniture, and it’s just right. You know the person who made it understood you. I’ve also been going to Paula rubenstein for years. I love the way she curates. It’s really random and eclectic. Behind her store, she has amassed a collection of textiles that you wouldn’t know about unless you asked. I found beautiful Navajo blankets there that I put around my apartment in Soho. I always frequent bohemian, a Japanese restaurant in an alley that’s across the street from our new shop. In the front, there’s a Japanese butcher, and you’re like, What is this doing here? To get in, there’s a buzzer, and I don’t even think they have a phone number listed. They make this martini with olives infused with barbecue sauce that’s the strongest martini you’ll ever have because they produce their own gin. It’s like moonshine. I always order the green chili sliders and branzino. il buco is amazing for tapas. Try to sit in the wine cellar, which has maybe three tables, but you’ll be sitting among some great wines. For fall, I’m into Chardonnay from Rombauer Vineyards. I buy art books at Dashwood books. You go in not knowing what you’re looking for and come out with something you need in your life. I never used to look at art when designing, but at the same time, my whole life is surrounded by it. A little way down, there’s mile end Delicatessen, which has the most amazing hot dogs; they’re kinda like haute hot dogs and are so satisfying. I also order their iced tea and roast beef sandwiches. I love that you can go there any time of the day and it’s never packed or with a crazy waiting situation. Where I live in Soho is wall-to-wall with people at midday. Here, it’s like, Wow, I can find parking. I can cross the street without someone honking at me, or about to run me over. Nights and weekends are the same way. These streets are somewhat desolate and vacant, and I love that. There is this kind of abandoned feeling here, and no other place in the city that will give you that space. It’s an oasis of urban charm.” G

Walkabout Phillip Lim’s go-to neighborhood spots. bohemian, 57 Great Jones St. DashWooD books, 33 Bond St.,

212-387-8520; dashwoodbooks.com il buco, 47 Bond St., 212-533-1932; ilbuco.com mile enD Delicatessen, 53 Bond St., 212-529-2990; mileenddeli.com moDernlink, 35 Bond St., 212-254-1300;

modernlink.com Paula rubenstein ltD., 21 Bond St.,

212-966-8954; paularubenstein.com

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PEOPLE Talent Patrol INSIGHT: Exploring thE city:

a touch of luxE:

“Recently my boyfriend and I did the Citi Bike system. The bike lanes are great—it’s a wonderful way to see New York.”

“Last weekend, I stayed at the Mandarin Oriental (80 Columbus Circle, 212-805-8800; mandarinoriental.com/ newyork). That blew my mind. I thought what kind of heaven came to me right now?”

Brunch BrEak:

“My favorite place is Morandi (211 Waverly Place, 212-627-7575; morandiny.com). Oh my god, I love it so much.”

Breaking Away

AbigAil Spencer moves into the big leagues With the neW film This is Where i Leave You. By Adrienne GAffney For actress Abigail Spencer, being cast in This Is Where I Leave You— which stars Jane Fonda, Tina Fey, and Jason Bateman—might be a career-transforming role. It’s a part she certainly worked hard to land. Falling in love with Jonathan Tropper’s book (published in 2009), Spencer, 33, tracked the development of the script, which went through several iterations, for a year and a half. “I knew I was going to be in this movie,” she says with a laugh. “We just needed to work out the details.” The high-profile September release is a long way from Spencer’s introduction to the spotlight. When she was 3, the Florida native’s grandmother entered her into the

Little Miss Gulf Breeze pageant after her mother vetoed the plans of her father, surfer Yancey Spencer, to turn her into the first female surfing champion. Acting in community and regional theater during childhood led to Spencer auditioning for Broadway legend Ann Reinking at the tender age of 15. (Spencer was chosen for the Broadway Theatre Project, a prestigious musical theater program for students.) “My dad found surfing at 15, so it was really interesting finding my obsession, that passion, at the same age,” she recalls. “He said find what you love and you can make a whole life of that addiction.” Her work with Reinking and drama teacher Margie Timmons inspired Spencer to apply to the noted musical theater program at Carnegie Mellon. But while in New York for an audition at the school, a visit to the audience of Live With Regis and Kathie Lee created a serendipitous option. Spencer’s father was a longtime friend of Kathie Lee Gifford, the program’s former cohost, and Gifford, knowing Abigail was in the audience, called her on stage. “She said, ‘Tell everyone what you’re doing in New York, Abby,’” Spencer recalls. “And I responded, ‘Well, I’m a singer, an actress, and a dancer, and I’m auditioning for Carnegie Mellon.” That brief appearance caught the attention of an ABC casting director, and within months Spencer, then 17, was a member of the cast of All My Children. “I was thrust into the business,” she explains, but after three years of being on the show, she took a year off. “I needed some time and some space from it. I started a band, I became a nanny.” Her tenacious agent, Meredith Wechter, got Spencer back in the game, and roles in television (a crucial arc playing a love interest of Don Draper on Mad Men) and film (Cowboys & Aliens, Oz: The Great and Powerful) followed. She currently stars on the beloved Sundance TV series Rectify, playing the loyal sister of a former death row inmate who’s been released and returned to his small hometown. Spencer’s career track looks only on the up, but that doesn’t mean she’s forgone a contingency plan. “Just for the record,” she says with a smile, “Carnegie Mellon said I could come back if things don’t work out!” G

photography by Mathew scott. styling by angel terrazas, hair by laini reeves for starworks artists, Makeup by kayleen McadaMs for the wall group, Manicure by tracey sutter for cloutier reMix. dress by rhea costa ($1,700). rheacosta.com. dress (worn as coat), Dolce & Gabbana ($2,995). puMps, Jimmy choo ($tk). shot on location at the four seasons in beverly hills

“I just knew I was going to be in this movie,” says Abigail Spencer of her role in This Is Where I Leave You.

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PEOPLE Talent Patrol INSIGHT: prepster central

downtown prep

“Ralph Lauren’s mansion on the Upper East Side is the cathedral for most preppies. That’s where you could start and end.”

“At Carson Street Clothiers (65 Crosby St., 212-9252617; carsonstreetclothiers .com) in SoHo you’ll fnd pieces with undertones of classic menswear but also brands you may have never seen.”

magnetic pole

“The East Pole (133 E. 65th St., 212-249-2222; theeastpolenyc.com) has a very preppy vibe. Woody Allen goes there on a regular basis. It’s fun to see new establishments pay homage to that aesthetic.”

a Jackie o Favorite

“J.G. Melon (1291 Third Ave., 212-744-0585) is a great spot on the Upper East Side—great burgers, a legendary place.”

Current Style

f.e. Castleberry talks Rowing BlazeRs, a lavish fashion tome he spent years photographing, out this month. By Delia von neuschatz

A noted photographer of prep culture and founder of the blog Unabashedly Prep, 33-year-old Fred Castleberry, also known as F.E. Castleberry, is the principal lensman behind a much-buzzed-about September release, Rowing Blazers (Vendome Press; $48). The lushly illustrated tome showcases an essential staple of the rowing world—the team blazer—an item of clothing rich in symbols of class heritage and idiosyncratic sporting tradition that has long inspired designers like Ralph Lauren and the J.Crew fashion teams. Castleberry spent several years working on the book, traveling with author and accomplished rower Jack Carlson, documenting blazers at rowing clubs and schools around the world. Many of the rowing jackets were photographed on Olympic competitors and champion oarsmen like Cameron and Tyler

Winklevoss. Carlson says he asked Castleberry to work on the project because he’d heard about his blog. “I thought this would be up his street.” The book delves into the quirky traditions that have influenced the designs of rowing jackets, and how colors, stripes, piping, buttons, and pocket badges speak volumes about a club’s history and the wearer’s level of accomplishment. For example, many college and university clubs don’t allow trim on jackets unless a wearer has achieved “colors” via competition at elite levels. “That’s all a part of their charm,” says Castleberry. “When you don a blazer, you become a part of a community. It represents something bigger than the individual,” he points out. “There’s a sense of ritual and of achievement.” From a fashion point of view, Castleberry says his favorite jackets are the white blazers with electric-blue grosgrain sported by the Cambridge Boat Club (on the Charles River in Boston) and in London, the Kensington Rowing Club’s ivory jackets with pink and green piping.” For New York City’s sole Ivy League school, Columbia, rowing jackets are only made when the crew team rows at Henley, a rare occurrence despite the fact the Columbia team was the first in the US to compete (and win) at that prestigious race back in 1878. “Whatever its color or striping, the rowing jacket remains a faithful emblem of the preppy dress style,” says Castleberry, even though he is quick to point out how that style has evolved considerably since the publication of Lisa Birnbach’s The Official Preppy Handbook in the early ’80s. “There’s more of an Italian influence, more fit, more ease in the way things are worn,” he says. But Castleberry admits he still sees the 1980s-style preppy, easily recognizable by his baggy clothes, running around the Financial District. “That guy is a true prep because he’s not really paying attention to the movements within the fashion world,” he says. “And if he has a rowing blazer, it’s likely to be decades old, have a missing button or two, and be worn in all the right places.” rowing blazers.com; unabashedlyprep.com G

photography by Nick oNkeN

F.E. Castleberry wears a vintage rowing blazer during an outing on Central Park Lake.

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PEOPLE Thought Leader James Scully joined forces with Sarah Ziff of Model Alliance to create a better work environment for models.

Sara Ziff, founder of the Model AlliAnce, And cAsting director jAMes scully discuss how to iMprove working conditions in A business thAt isn’t AlwAys As glAMorous As it seeMs. by neesha arter to improve working conditions for models of all ages. After Sara Ziff, who began modeling at 14, codirected the film Picture Me, a What was the impetus for founding Model Alliance? 2010 documentary about the highs and lows of the modeling business, she Sara Ziff: Along with other models, I wanted to have a voice about our was determined to bring awareness to the often less-than-ideal working work and address issues, especially concerning the conditions in the industry—a disregard for child-labor protection of kids in the industry. We got together and laws, a lack of financial transparency, the encourage“twenty years thought we would be more powerful as a group. ment of eating disorders, and instances of sexual abuse. ago, it was rare How did it come into being? Ziff founded the Model Alliance in 2012 and immediSZ: When I was in college, I studied labor and commuately drew in big-name supporters like Coco Rocha, for Models to be nity organizing, and I had it in my head that I wanted to Milla Jovovich, and Fordham Law’s Susan Scafidi. The unionize the industry. I realized it would be impossible group scored its first big victory last November when younger than 18.” because models are considered independent contracchild-model legislation went into effect (the law states —james scully tors, not employees. Under federal law, they can’t that child models who live or work in New York State unionize. So after some frustration, I met Susan Scafidi, are protected by the Department of Labor, with the director of the Fashion Law Institute at Fordham Law School, who same rights and securities afforded to other “child performers”). But Ziff wanted to help. We met at a screening of my documentary about the indusnotes there is still tremendous work to be done. Here, she and James Scully, try. It was because of that film that I was really able to talk about the issues. a leading fashion-industry casting director, discuss their ongoing mission

photography by eric ryan anderson; photographed in the neuehouse Library. opposite page: MichaeL duMLer (ModeLs)

A Brighter Picture

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“We tell them to treat modeling like a business because it doesn’t last forever.” —sara ziff

left: Model Alliance members celebrate Governor Andrew Cuomo’s signing the child model bill into law. below: Elettra Rossellini Wiedemann and Sara Ziff at the White House to mark passage of the Affordable Care Act.

How did you get involved with the Model Alliance, James? James Scully: When I began in the industry over 20 years ago, most girls didn’t start modeling until they were 18 and had finished high school. It was so rare for them to be any younger. Back then, a model’s career never really hit [its stride] until she was in her late 20s or early 30s. Christy, Kate, and Naomi were the ones who pushed that boundary. Then the starting age started shifting downward, and it coincided with the Model Alliance trying to make it right. I was definitely on board. Why did the starting age for models get younger? JS: One of the first factors was the opening of Eastern Europe, where the ages of girls weren’t supervised. Also, there was client preference, which went from wanting a female aesthetic to desiring a very prepubescent body type. Editors would keep demanding these younger girls. By the time models started to go through puberty, the editors mistook that for weight gain. No one was winning at the end of the day. SZ: When we looked at the law, we saw that child models were the only child performers not covered under the labor laws in New York State. When we spoke to lawmakers, they didn’t seem to be aware [of this loophole]. Even within the industry, they weren’t thinking of these kids as children. JS: There were just so many children in the industry being taken advantage of. One of Model Alliance’s initiatives was backstage privacy. Tell us how that came about. SZ: Models were concerned about unauthorized photos being taken of them changing clothes backstage during New York Fashion Week. We needed to raise awareness and introduced a backstage privacy policy

that encourages show producers to limit backstage access once “first looks” are called during a show. Have things improved concerning the issue of overly thin models? SZ: While I was able to maintain a certain body type and eat whatever I wanted, I would hear criticism when doing shows that models were too skinny and anorexic. It wasn’t until years later that models came to me and said that they had gone to extremes to fit into sample sizes. A friend who was on the cover of Italian Vogue when she was about 14, was told by her agency to only eat one rice cake a day as her body started to fill out. This is a model I’ve worked with for years, and it wasn’t until years later that she told me she had been desperately ill. JS: In Sara’s day, it was more unusual [for models to be anorexic], but then it started to become the norm. No one was doing anything about it. The people who could [do something] were saying they were, but they weren’t. Part of the Model Alliance mission statement is to educate models about their rights. What do you emphasize? SZ: When we formed our group, we established Model Alliance Support, our discreet grievance reporting and advice service for members. We encourage any model who has been the subject of unwanted sexual attention on the job, or who has experienced any other workrelated problem to contact us. We also talk to them about finances. Many girls getting into the industry are just excited to shoot with a well-known photographer or get on the runway. They need to treat modeling like a business because it doesn’t last forever, even if you’re one of the lucky ones. G

modeling by the numbers: Age THAT MAJOriTy Of MOdelS begin WOrking

13–16 years old: 54.7 percent 17–20 years old: 37.3 percent 21 or over: 6.7 percent PercenTAge Of MOdelS ASked by THeir AgencieS TO lOSe WeigHT

64.1 percent MOdelS WiTHOuT HeAlTH inSurAnce

28.8 percent MOdelS WHO HAve Suffered frOM eATing diSOrderS 31.2 percent

Source: Results of the survey, conducted by Model Alliance, are based on responses of 84 working female models in New York and LA, or more than a third of the 241 who were sent the survey.

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PEOPLE Spirit of Generosity I was born in Bogotá, Colombia. I’m the youngest of three children, and my family moved to New York before I was even a year old. My mother came over to do a graduate program at Barnard College, fell in love with New York, and never left. But we moved around quite a lot. We lived in Manhattan, Brooklyn, and Forest Hills, Queens, which is where I graduated from public high school. When I was 10 years old, my parents divorced, and my sisters and I moved back to Colombia for a five-year period, to live with my dad. You go through a lot of processes with divorce. The memory of being a child and struggling with that disharmony in your home—which

Fostering a Better Future anavOs Dayssi Olarte D describes her work with New Yorkers for childreN, a charitY loNg popular with the citY’s fashioN crowd. as told to kari molvar

from left: De Kanavos and Marisa Brown attend the charity’s benefit, Wrap to Rap, presented by Valentino; De Kanavos, Elisabeth Noel Jones, Katia Steward (foreground), and Natalia Echavarria at the annual dinner dance.

“The sTruggles and The problems facing youTh in fosTer care can seem enormous—buT They’re noT insurmounTable.” —dayssi olarte de k anavos happens for a long time before the actual divorce— stays with you; you remember that. But rather than making that the trauma that defined me, I became more empathetic to the struggles of kids, and it also prepared me for what I wanted to focus on in philanthropy, which is children. I was introduced to New Yorkers for Children in 1997, at a luncheon hosted by Rudy Giuliani, Susan Burden, and Nicholas Scoppetta. When I learned about their mission to support youth in foster care, I thought, This is exactly what I want to do. At the time, there weren’t a lot of charities devoted to social causes—it was mostly the arts or the museums. I started volunteering and within a couple of years I was on the board [she now serves as its secretary], which also includes Oscar de la Renta and Anna Wintour. Having the clout of those names has made a big difference; it certainly helped launch us. Their influence has been phenomenal, and they’ve always been passionate and invested in the organization. Apart from fundraising, one of my first initiatives was to create the Young Friends Committee. I wanted to recruit a diverse group of people under 40 and not just those from the Upper East Side, but from all over the city and different ethnicities. I had people like Zac Posen; Blake Mycoskie, the founder of Toms; and fashion models like Selita Ebanks, who was in foster care briefly. One of the first members was Victor Matthews, a visual artist who grew up in Bed Stuy. His mother was a foster care parent, so he really understood what the kids needed. He helped us identify the goals we still focus on today, which are: How do we help conTinued on page 78

photography by Matteo prandoni/bFanyc.coM (brown); neil rasMus/bFanyc.coM (steward); benjaMin lozovsky/bFanyc.coM (top)

An admirer greets Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos during the New Yorkers for Children spring dinner.

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PeOPLe spirit of generosity Charity register the fall season kicks off with many opportunities to give. City Harvest Cochairs Pooja Kapoor, Alissa Dicker Schrieber, Olivia Wolfe, Meghan Young, and Dana Zukofsky helm City Harvest’s inaugural Bow Ties & Burgers fundraiser. Proceeds from the ’70s-style bash, which will include dinner and dancing, support the organization’s food rescue efforts. When: thursday, september 18 Where: Center548, 548 W. 22nd st. Contact: cityharvest.org

NeW york Cares

Nicole Esposito, Marisa Brown, Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos, Amy McFarland, Alina Cho, Natalia Echavarria, Lydia Fenet, and Clare McKeon make a stylish lineup at the annual dinner benefit.

New York Cares helps run volunteer programs for 1,300 nonprofts, schools, and city agencies. The annual Autumn Affair gala will include an evening of cocktails and dancing, and a lavish raffe along with prizes like dinners at top restaurants and round-trip tickets to exotic locales. When: thursday, september 18

when people say no? How do you persevere? Because oftentimes, youth in foster care are not empowered in making any decisions and choices at all. The choices are being made for them, by the social workers, the legal system, or by the parents. So that makes it even harder for these kids to succeed. With Javelle, I had to break apart everything he knew. I met with him once a week, and anytime somebody amazing came through my office—an incredible developer, realtor, hotelier—I would ask these people, ‘You know, as long as you’re here, do you think you would have 10 or 15 minutes to meet with somebody I’m mentoring?’ So Javelle would get nuggets of wisdom from these extraordinary people. And he would never get just 10 to 15 minutes; most people stayed with him for almost an hour. Javelle ended up working at our firm for more than 18 months. When he was really prepared, he interviewed for a position at one of our sister companies and got the job. Now he’s 33 and a successful real estate businessman who supports Big Brothers Big Sisters. I think the next phase of improving the foster care system in New York is about building connections between agencies—so connecting education with health with foster care. Then we need to work on increasing the city’s funds for higher education, so we can send every kid to college. It’s true that the struggles and the problems facing youth in foster care can seem enormous—but if we stay focused and persevere, I’d like to think that they’re not insurmountable. The 15th annual New Yorkers for Children Fall Gala will take place on Tuesday, September 30 at Cipriani 42nd Street, 110 E. 42nd St., 646-2572930; newyorkersforchildren.org. G

Where: 1 oak, 453 W. 17th st. Contact: newyorkcares.org

alzHeimer’s assoCiatioN The nonproft’s Junior Committee hosts its annual Speakeasy Soirée to beneft the organization’s research efforts to eradicate the disease. The evening will feature cocktails, dancing, and a silent auction. When: Friday, september 19 Where: Harold Pratt House, 58 e. 68th st. Contact: alz.org/nyc

tHe Wall street CHalleNge Financial whizzes fock to the annual Wall Street Challenge, which features a round-robin tennis tournament, followed by dinner, dancing, and silent and live auctions. All proceeds beneft the Ovarian Cancer Research Fund. When: saturday, september 20 Where: greenwich Country Club, 19 Doubling road, greenwich, Connecticut Contact: wallstreetchallenge.kintera.org

UNiCeF Tee off with LGPA tour player Belen Mozo at the picturesque Manhattan Woods Golf Club for the daylong Drive for Zero Golf Classic benefiting the U.S. Fund for UNICEF. A silent auction follows the tournament. When: monday, september 22 Where: manhattan Woods golf Club, one ahlmeyer Dr., West Nyack, New york Contact: unicefusa.org

photography by Joe Schildhorn/bFanyc.com

kids in foster care get excited about higher education, whether it’s vocational or community college? And how do you help them take the steps to get there? So we created Network to Success to do just that. I got young speakers from different walks of life who were just starting out in their careers to come and talk to the kids. We had firemen, lawyers, people in the music business—basically, we thought: Who are the coolest people in their 20s or 30s who should be on this panel? We had physical therapist to the stars Marty Jaramillo talk about his life with the New York Knicks and the Rangers, and all the athletes and famous dancers he’s worked on. Afterward, the kids were like, “Physical therapy could be kinda cool, right?” We had people in banking, finance, health care. It turned out to be such a powerful experience that another endeavor, an annual educational and vocational training program called Futures in Motion: A Career Alliance Network, grew out of it. Another goal of the Young Friends Committee is to build a brain trust. It’s not just about fundraising and donating money. You can be a mentor, offer someone an internship, provide advice, or just come to us with an idea about the next thing we need to do for youth in foster care. One of my favorite kids, whom I mentored personally, is Javelle Houston. He had a dream of being in the real estate business and was extraordinarily hardworking but didn’t have 100 percent of the skills necessary to get a job on his own. So I offered him a summer internship at my real estate development firm. When he first started, he had such a quiet tone of voice that you could barely hear him. We had to start from scratch with: How do you pick up the phone? What do you do

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 76

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INVITED The Month’s Smartest Parties

Summer SoiréeS

PhotograPhy by bFanyc.com

by ERIN RILEy

Lauren Santo Domingo served as cohost of Conservation International’s New York Dinner.

Warm weather certainly put the style set in party mode—they came out in droves for events celebrating conservation, Central Park, The Humane Society, and other important causes. Lauren and Andrés Santo Domingo hosted Conservation International’s 17th annual New York Dinner, while the Wildlife Conservation Society honored such influential women as Hillary Rodham Clinton, Chelsea Clinton, and Diane Christensen at the annual summer gala. Meanwhile, Friends of the High Line joined with Coach to host its highly anticipated summer party, and Gotham celebrated its Peter Max cover and charity auction benefiting The Humane Society. continued on paGe 82

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INVITED President Anote Tong

Richard Falotico and Mary Bartos with Melissa Seligmann Gokhvat and Eugene Gokhvat

Vijay Sudan, Paul Jakubski, and Colby Smith

CONSERVATION INTERNATIONAL

Thomas Friedman

NEW YORK’S TOP conservationists flocked to the

David Crane and M. Sanjanyan

American Museum of Natural History for Conservation International’s annual New York Dinner, this year hosted by Lauren and Andrés Santo Domingo. The evening’s highlight was a discussion between Thomas Friedman, the Pulitzer Prize–winning New York Times columnist, and Anote Tong, president of Kiribati, about the challenges facing his island nation. Conservation International CEO Peter Seligmann and NRG Energy’s president and CEO David Crane also discussed NRG Energy’s transition from coal and nuclear energy to solar power and natural gas.

The Milstein Hall of Ocean Life at the American Museum of Natural History

Jim Jordan, Henry Arnhold, and Jerry Newman

Susan Chase, Hayley Bloomingdale, Mollie Ruprecht, and Indre Rockefeller

Peter Seligmann

A reclaimed barnwood bar in the Hall of Biodiversity

Andrés Santo Domingo

PHOTOGRAPHY BY COLIN DOUGLAS GRAY

Michael Brown, Maureen Schafer, Finn Longinotto, and Mary Gallo

GOTHAM-MAGAZINE.COM

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INVITED

Al Roker and Deborah Roberts Jonelle Procope, Bronson van Wyck, Debra Shriver, and Yolanda Ferrell-Brown

Gerald and Anita-Agnes Hassell

Marcus Samuelsson and Maya Haile

APOLLO THEATER

GLADYS KNIGHT, NATALIE COLE, and The Isley

Ernie Isley

Wayne Brady

Brothers were among the legendary artists who performed to honor the music institution’s 80th anniversary. At the event, hosted by Emmy Award–winning Wayne Brady, Richard D. Parsons, chairman of the board since 2001, was presented with the Leadership Award in recognition of his work revitalizing the theater. The evening proved to be a smash hit, bringing in a record-breaking $2.3 million for the Apollo’s community initiatives and programming.

George Lucas and Mellody Hobson

Leon Robinson

Vanessa Bell Calloway and Star Jones

Michael Barker, Olivia Wilde, Paul Haggis, and Michael Nozik

Dean Winters

Julie Taymor and Gina Gershon

Daniel Benedict, Evangelo Bousis, and Johannes Huebl

Beth Ostrosky Stern

CINEMA SOCIETY THIRD PERSON PREMIERE OLIVIA WILDE, LOAN

CHABANOL, and Moran Atias dazzled alongside two-time Oscar Award–winning director Paul Haggis at the premiere of Sony Pictures Classics’ Third Person on June 17. Hosted by the Cinema Society and Tasha Jefferson and Jackie Cruz

Moran Atias

Revlon, the screening took place at the Landmark Sunshine Cinema and was followed by an afterparty at Jimmy at the James hotel. Partygoers cooled off around the rooftop pool with specialty Qui Tequila cocktails.

Loan Chabanol

Kenneth Cole

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHAHAR AZRAN PHOTOGRAPHY (APOLLO), NICHOLAS HUNT/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM (CINEMA)

Elaine Foley

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INVITED // INVITED spotlight //

BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS CHLOË SEVIGNY, KATE MARA, AND CHLOË GRACE MORETZ GOT AHEAD OF THE FASHION CURVE, WEARING PIECES FROM COACH’S Kelly Rohrbach Stuart Vevers and Lew Frankfort

Audrey Gelman

Riley Keough

FRIENDS OF THE HIGH LINE

FIRST FOR CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Guests danced and enjoyed music on the High Line.

STUART VEVERS.

1. CHLOË SEVIGNY stuck with her signature edgy-chic in a red and black houndstooth T-shirt dress worn with the new Coach Rhyder Crossbody bag and black Windsor Smith Chunk sandals.

FRIENDS OF THE HIGH LINE’s

annual summer party, presented by Coach, drew a star-studded crowd that included top designers like Misha Nonoo and Coach’s new creative director Stuart Vevers, along with artist Anh Duong and actresses Keri Russell, Kate Mara, Susan Sarandon, and Chloë Grace Moretz. Partygoers indulged in the ’70s-inspired fare and fun, and a surprise performance by De La Soul.

FALL 2014 COLLECTION, THE

2. KATE MARA accessorized a color-block ensemble by Sandro and Prada sandals with a Coach Rhyder Zip Messenger clutch.

Susan Sarandon

3. CHLOË GRACE MORETZ looked übersmart in a Christopher Kane Resort 2014 dress and Stuart Weitzman Nudist sandals, with Coach’s new Whipstitch Dakotah Fringe Flap bag in hand.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY NEIL RASMUS/JOE SCHILDHORN/MATTEO PRANDONI FOR BFANYC.COM

Giovanna Battaglia Vanessa Bayer

June Ambrose, Marjorie Gubelmann, and Jay Manuel Keri Russell

Katie Lee

Anh Duong

Danielle Snyder and Jodie Snyder Morel

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taste so Many Dinners (so Little time)

Runway Refuge

Betony remains a haven for stylistas during fashion Week, thanks to a modernist menu and a location close to the goings-on at lincoln center. By Gary Walther photoGraphy By evan sunG

Chef Shuman’s grilled short ribs are the menu’s great steak. top right: Grain salad with labneh and sprouts.

Forty One West 57th Street is perhaps the unlikeliest address to become an enduring home plate for Manhattan scenesters. Oprah, Sarah Jessica, Neil Patrick, Eliot (that’s Spitzer), Christian (of the red soles), and Oscar (of the society dresses) along with Bergdorf and Hearst execs, and at night the 15 CPW crowd, have all been drawn to this oddball end of 57th Street by Betony, a culinary outpost with modernist inclinations. Designer Rachel Roy calls it “the best new ressie” in town. Owner Andrey Dellos has brought the money, but it is two young alumni of acclaimed Eleven Madison Park, general manager continued on page 88

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TAsTe so Many Dinners (so Little Time) COCKTAIL HOUR

Manager Eamon Rockey and chef Bryce Shuman; the two-story bar; Shuman’s Spanish mackerel with green tomatoes and chamomile.

ConTinuEd FRoM pAGE 87

Eamon Rockey and chef Bryce Shuman, who are providing the vision. Both of them are from the South— Shuman from North Carolina; Rockey, from Mississippi. They have conceived a restaurant that’s one part Southern hospitality; one part polished French service leavened with a soupçon of New York first-name-basis familiarity; and one part cuisine that looks disarmingly simple (grilled short ribs, roasted chicken—the menu is terse), but bootlegs in a lot of culinary technique. Betony (named after an herb in the mint family) is about “familiar flavors [presented] in modern ways,” Shuman says, but like the menu, the comment hides a lot of fancy-pants technique. Take the grilled short rib. It came out of Shuman’s desire

to have a great steak on the menu. But anyone can do that. So he’s conjured one by cooking the ribs sous vide at 136 degrees for 48 hours in an immersion circulator with salt, pepper, thyme, garlic, and rendered beef fat—creating, in effect, a short-rib confit. The meat is then carved and pressed and finally grilled over charcoal. “That turns it into a great steak,” he says, with just a hint of pride at being so clever. Other dishes are seasonal. “I just love eating nettles at this time of year,” says Shuman, who in spring makes them into the key ingredient in glazed nettle ravioli, that comes in a sauce made of vin jaune, the wine of Franche-Comté. “It makes a morel taste more like a morel,” he explains, referring to the ingredient that plays the supporting role. For all of its fashion and

“Betony is aBout familiar flavors in modern ways.” —bryce shuman

chic veneer, Betony is about an old-fashioned virtue: enjoying what’s on your plate for longer than three bites, the current speed limit in the city’s temples of degustation and small-plate bazaars. I wanted seconds of the roasted chicken, takeout for the grain salad (labneh and sprouts) and pickled ramps (featherlight and like great snack food, a chorus of salt, sour, and crunch), and I had to resist downing the carrot velouté by picking up the bowl. From a design standpoint, Betony is the product that resulted from stripping down the exuberant décor

of Brasserie Pushkin, the previous restaurant in the space, and leaving it with an improbable mix that works. The two-story bar has brick walls punctuated with narrow mirrors. Then the space turns into a ground floor dining room with boiserie paneling like a rich man’s study and a mezzanine dining room above. If you want to be seen, book a table in the middle of the downstairs room; if you shouldn’t be here with the person you’re with, then it’s the banquette tables at the back. 41 W. 57th St., 212-465-2400; betony-nyc.com G

The Cobble Hill.

photography by evan sung

clockwise from left: General

Eamon Rockey is formidably knowledgeable about booze chemistry. Mention a cocktail and he’s got citations, footnotes, anecdotes—the entire armor of dissertations. The cocktail list is in many ways an homage. Thus, The Adore (aged rum, Cynar, lime, and Velvet Falernum, a sweet syrup of almonds, ginger, cloves, and lime) is named for Theodore Lieberman, a Milk & Honey bartender and friend who invented the drink. The Cobble Hill, Brooklyn’s now-chic neighborhood, is a witty riposte to the Manhattan. Gin and tonics are done in an immersion circulator, then cooled rapidly. As for the wine list, it’s long and deep, and my advice is to trust in the sommelier. He picked the perfect white for the nettles (a 2004 López de Heredia rioja, for its slightly sherried favor) and told me that he was going to keep the Heiligenstein Grüner Veltliner from Weingut Hirsch “on top of the ice” rather than immersing it. My thought exactly.

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TASTE Restaurant Buzz

from left:

Fashion’s Hot New Boîte

Sean MacPherSon’S Margaux iS the lateSt chicSter Magnet. By Jennifer Ashley Wright

First there was Elaine’s, then Michael’s, and now there’s Margaux, the city’s latest must-stop watering hole. Rather than bringing in socialites or media types, the hot boîte in the Marlton Hotel has become so popular with the fashion crowd that the clack of Louboutins making their way past the abundant mirrors and over to the plush Parisian booths can be deafening. The restaurant is the brainchild of hip hotelier Sean MacPherson, who designed Margaux to have a vibe that falls “somewhere between a Parisian bistro and a great

dining room in a lower Fifth Avenue apartment,” he says. Margaux fast became a favorite of designer Prabal Gurung; Rachel Feinstein, the artist and Marc Jacobs muse; actor Benedict Cumberbatch; and Lauren Bush Lauren and husband David Lauren, along with top fashion and magazine executives. Olivier Theyskens held his 37thbirthday dinner there— though the crowd may have opted for the kale salad rather than cake. “I think one of the reasons it appeals to people in the fashion world is that we have a very healthy menu,” says

MacPherson. “At Margaux, there’s a heavy vegetarian component.” That means diners will be treated to dishes (the menu is Mediterranean inspired) such as cauliflower custard with—what else?—crunchy kale; crispy sunchokes with lemon labneh; and an extremely popular farmer’s board that boasts red quinoa, spicy smashed sweet potato, avocado hummus, and beets. For those willing to loosen their Prada belt a notch, the chocolate budino with sea salt and olive oil is absolutely superb. The cocktails prove equally stylish. A favorite at

“I thInk one of the reasons margaux appeals to people In the fashIon world Is that we have a very healthy menu.” —sean macpherson

the moment is the new pamplemousse shandy, which is made with grapefruit hefeweizen (wheat ale), Aperol, tequila, lime, and candied grapefruit. It’s certain to give that farmers’ board a nice kick. If you’re looking to get in and are not on the list for one

of their upcoming Fashion Week parties, don’t despair. Some spots are always reserved for neighbors, walk-ins, and hotel guests. Just make sure to show up wearing something you wouldn’t mind Anna Wintour seeing. 5 W. Eighth St., 212-321-0111; margauxnyc.com G

photography by evan sung (interior, cocktail); annie schlechter (scallops)

The restaurant has a bistro feel; Sal’s Paradise Punch; diver sea scallops.

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TasTe Out at Night A Negroni Bianco from The Beatrice Inn.

Lavo’s lounge lures stunners like model Doutzen Kroes.

A Model Crowd

The boîTes and nighTspoTs ThaT aTTracT The runway’s mosT famous faces. by jennifer ashley wright Yes, models eat. And they drink. But where? Alyssa Montemurro, the editor of Modelinia.com, notes, “Models spend their day-today lives in the public eye, so it makes sense that when they go out they’re looking for a place that is exclusive and removed from the spotlight. Typically these places tend to be the hottest new restaurants, lounges, or in-the-know hangouts.” Fortunately, we’re in the know. If, as Linda Evangelista famously quipped, models refuse to get out of bed for less than $10,000, it’s probably because they were out partying at these hot spots the night before.

UPTOWN Beautique

A 125-seat restaurant that channels the spirit of Coco Chanel’s house in Paris with its mirrored staircase and taupe and black lacquer palette. The hedgies around the corner on 57th Street mix and mingle with fashionistas Elettra Wiedemann, Leilani Bishop, and Maryna Linchuk. Best Night: Friday—a great stylish end to the week. Best Drink: Try the Central Park Beauty, made with Champagne, port, and rhubarb liqueur. 8 W. 58th St., 212-753-1200; beautiquedining.com

Harlow Synonymous with old Hollywood glamour, Harlow is in the space once used by silent movie star Marion Davies for personal entertaining. Today it draws a new crop of dazzlers, like models Selita Ebanks and Lydia Hearst. Best Night: Bring glamour back to midweek and go on Tuesday. Best Drink: Try the Mignonette martini, made with Bombay Sapphire gin, Noilly Prat dry vermouth, and housemade pickling liquid. 111 E. 56th St., 212-9356600; harlownyc.com

This Vegas import is a hedonist’s delight. The low-lit subterranean lounge lures in stunners like Doutzen Kroes, Elsa Hosk, Miranda Kerr, and Hilary Rhoda with its pulsing music and $10,000 bottles of rosé. Best Nights: Lavo might actually be best in the daytime. Its Saturday Champagne brunch is a sybarite staple. In addition to “bikini brunches,” where guests are encouraged to wear swimwear, you’ll see people being carried in large Champagne buckets as well as bottles of bubbly. Best Drink: The Amalta Mora. It contains what we like to think of as the three B’s: Bulleit bourbon, blackberries, and bitters. 39 E. 58 St., 212-584-2700 (nightclub), 212-750-5588 (restaurant); lavony.com

DOWNTOWN

The Beatrice Inn A footnote on the menu reads “Photography is not permitted.” That may be to prevent people from taking pictures of their steaks at Graydon Carter’s classic chophouse. But it will also deter people from snapping shots of such A-listers as supermodel Irina

Shayk, who gather in the clubby main room. Best Night: Swing by on a Wednesday to spot power players wheeling and dealing over a New York strip. Best Drink: Try the perfectly bittersweet Negroni Bianco, made with Fords gin, Lillet blanc, Avèze, and Regans’ bitters. 285 W. 12th St., 917-5667400; thebeatriceinn.com

The Smile Some might say it has a hipster vibe; we say it’s just hip. The downstairs area of this cozy eatery, owned by Marquee duo Matt Kliegman and Carlos Quirarte, serves as a tattoo parlor, so there’s a chance you’ll see models like Erin Heatherton and Erin Wasson getting inked. Best Night: Embrace the laid-back, neighborhood vibe for a lazy Sunday dinner after the brunch crowd has cleared out. The balsamic roast chicken is even better than the French toast. Best Drink: Try the Strawberry-Spiked Lemonade, made with vodka, muddled strawberries, and house-made lemonade. 26 Bond St., 646-329-5836; thesmilenyc.com G

photography by aaron Zebrook (negroni); helene Wiesenhaan/Wireimage (kroes)

Lavo

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SOPHISTICATED KIDS

NEED SOPHISTICATED CARE Dr. Barry L. Jacobson, NYCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Premier Pediatric Dentist Dr. Barry Jacobson and Dr. Helen Weinberg celebrated the debut of their highly anticipated state of the art pediatric dental office. Passionate art collectors themselves, they bring their love of art, cutting edge design, and architecture into their practice. The elegant reception for friends and family was held at their ultra modern 949 Park Avenue location.

Above: Dr. Barry Jacobson and his wife and partner Dr. Helen Weinberg, Orthodontist.

Michelle Weinberg. Edina Kosachevsky, and Dr. Helen Weinberg

Dr. David Poiman and Dr. Barry Jacobson

Tanya Weinberg MD, Galina Weinberg, Gennadiy Weinberg

Maria Leibholz, Dr Helen Weinberg, and Elena Dronova

Dr. Weinberg and Galina Khelemskiy, M.D.

Visit www.949PediatricDentistry.com or call 212-99-SMILE for a consultation.

TAsTe spotlight from left:

Mario Carbone, Jeff Zalaznick, and Rich Torrisi partner with Sean MacPherson at the Ludlow.

sips and snaps During Fashion Week, Manhattan’s glitterati aren’t content to see and be seen; they demand to be photographed, too. So we’re expecting tout le monde to flock to Leonora, shutterbug Patrick McMullan’s newest outpost in the heart of Chelsea. The semiprivate lounge will be offering a signature cocktail called The Leonora, a mix of vodka, Aperol, honey syrup, and grapefruit juice topped with a prosecco float. For décor, the exposed brick walls will be covered with snaps from McMullan. Get there quickly, and maybe you’ll be featured in some. 525 W. 29th St., 212-594-6000; theleonoranyc.com –jw

French Twists

stylish

cheers!

bites

Mcnally’s latest

You can fnally stop mourning Pulino’s. Cherche Midi, a Keith McNally French-style bistro, has opened in its old space with a menu of brasserie favorites, like frogs legs with green-garlic velouté, steak tartare, and pot de fromage. But McNally can always be counted on to give a new spin to the tried-and-true. Chefs Shane McBride and Daniel Parilla have included such items as Hamachi Crudo, and mussels in basil broth with broccolini and lemon conft. Don’t overlook American favorites on the menu—word on the street is that the prime rib burger rivals the one at Minetta Tavern. And, like every McNally restaurant, the atmosphere is laidback but stylish, and the music is kept low enough to allow for easy conversation. You’ll want to linger over that café noisette for hours. 282 Bowery, 212-2263055; cherchemidiny.com –jw

Cherche Midi’s Hamachi Crudo.

bon appétit

We’re already huge Margaux fans, so we’re excited to see hotelier Sean MacPherson’s latest venture, Dirty French, debuting in his recently opened Ludlow hotel. For this restaurant, MacPherson teamed up with Rich Torrisi, Mario Carbone, and Jeff Zalaznick, the brains behind such culinary hot spots as Carbone, Parm, and ZZ’s Clam Bar. With Dirty French, Torrisi and Carbone are moving away from their praised ItalianAmerican style of cooking to create what The New York Times calls a “roughed-up Gallic bistro.” The menu, according to Torrisi, is inspired by his training in classical French cooking. We’re not quite sure what “roughed-up French” means (the treatment of François Hollande’s love affairs in Le Monde?), but we certainly like the sound of the dishes: roast chicken served with a side of crepes, and carpaccio with apricots and goat cheese. Sounds like they’re trying to put anything you’ve tasted in Provence to shame. Before heading to Dirty French, stop by the Lobby Bar, also under the direction of Torrisi, Carbone, and Zalaznick, for some intriguing cocktail combos, like the Ludlow Gimlet, made with gin and Crème d’Abricot liqueur, and the Grand Prix, a blend of Japanese whiskey and coconut vermouth. 180 Ludlow St., 212-432-1818; ludlowhotel.com –jennifer ashley wright

Just in time for Fashion Week, the Leonora’s new cocktail (above) mixes vodka, Aperol, and prosecco.

birds & bubbles Those who love CiTy GriT Chef sarah simmons’s invenTive Take on country cuisine can rejoice—she’s opening a stand-alone restaurant called Birds & Bubbles, offering “elevated Southern dishes” with a focus on fried chicken and Champagne—two of our favorite things. They also promise to have “an amazing list of wines, craft beers, and cocktails coming from the bar,” for the non-bubbly crowd. Expect grits, collard greens, and other Southern specialties whipped up with Simmons’s usual fair. 100 Forsyth St. –jw

photography by Dylan + Jeni (carbone, ZalaZnick, anD torrisi); nick solares (hamachi cruDo)

foodies are talking dirty french, sean MacPherson’s new ludlow bistro.

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taste On the town

Film Forum

AnAleigh TipTon and director MAx nichols settle in at the Fat radish to talk about their latest projects. By Ken RivadeneiRa photogRaphy By doug young

clockwise:

Max Nichols and Analeigh Tipton share an appetizer of oysters; the restaurant’s main dining room; entrée selections: the BLT sandwich for Nichols, Roasted Dutch Morgan Chicken for Tipton.

Analeigh Tipton is enjoying a career upswing with two major New York-centric projects out this fall, both of which focus on modern approaches to finding love. In addition to starring with Miles Teller in the indie romantic comedy Two Night Stand, premiering August 22, the 25-year-old California transplant has the lead in Manhattan Love Story, an ABC series, which airs on September 30. In the film, she and Teller are snowed in after an “online hookup”—they met through the Internet for a sexual encounter—which forces them to get to know each other. The film is the motion picture directing debut for Max Nichols, son of Academy Award–winning director Mike Nichols, who shot the movie in 19 days. Gotham recently joined Tipton and Nichols for lunch at The Fat Radish, where they caught up on current projects, reminisced about working together, and dished on life in New York. [Oysters arrive as appetizers. Max orders a BLT for lunch; Analeigh orders the Roasted Dutch Morgan Chicken.] AnAleigh TipTon: I’ve never been to The Fat Radish, but my friends have said that it was really good. MAx nichols: The BLT is a fairly solid combo, and when you throw in avocados and eggs, it’s gilding the lily in the best possible way. Are you in town looking for an apartment? AT: Yes, I’m interested in the Lower East Side or Chinatown. I would like a neighborhood that takes me out of my comfort zone. I’ve lived in downtown Los Angeles for five years in an old live-work factory, and I’m trying to find a place like that here—just a very raw space. That’s kind of hard in Manhattan. MN: I have lived in New York my entire life. If there was a satellite-tracking diagram of my existence, it would be one dot right on Manhattan. I’m surprised you don’t want to move back into the old place on 19th Street, where you were staying while shooting Two Night Stand. AT: A few too many precious late-night memories there after Sandy. [Hurricane Sandy hit in the middle of shooting Two Night Stand.] MN: Making a micro-budget, 19-day indie feature is an “exciting challenge” enough as it is! There was no power; public transport was down so people were scrambling to find ways for people to get to set. AT: Kid Cudi drove me one day. MN: It’s definitely helpful to have a famous rapper in your movie during an emergency. AT: There’s nothing like making a film with music, like this one. It has a great soundtrack. MN: That was a super appealing part—the opportunity to put so much music in this movie. Previously I had been an A&R guy [with

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clockwise from far left:

Tipton and Nichols outside the restaurant; The Fat Radish’s popular Scotch egg; Tipton tried the Smokey & Rhubarb cocktail, made with Monkey Shoulder Scotch, Aperol, and Beth’s Farm rhubarb.

“WhaT aRe OuR NeW RuLeS FOR cOuRTShIpS IN a ‘cLIck heRe FOR hOOkup’ uNIveRSe?” —max nichols Tommy Boy Entertainment] and that led to directing music videos. AT: What was your first music video? MN: It was for an awesome band out of West Virginia called American Minor, and the song was called “Buffalo Creek.” Once you start directing, people begin to ask if you’re going to make a movie. I knew it was something I wanted to do, but I didn’t want to make just any movie. Your first is with you forever—it’s something you’re going to be thinking or talking about, answering for or justifying. I wanted something that no matter what happens with it I could say I’m so happy to have been a part of that. When I read the script for Two Night Stand, I said, this is it. AT: A lot of interesting stuff drew me to the film. My character is so guarded and believes she needs to be a certain way, but that gets broken down over time. MN: The premise is two strangers on a one-night stand get snowed in together and have to deal with each other as actual humans, but what’s really interesting is the generational themes. It doesn’t apply to me [Nichols is married with twin

daughters], but it’s interesting to observe. What are our new rules for courtships in a “click here for hookup” universe? What role does ambition play? People today have seen previous generations take a “career first and sort out all actual happiness later” approach, and [question] whether that’s produced desired results. To find that covered so well in an unexpected place like a romantic comedy is exciting. AT: There are emotional results you don’t always see. That’s a nice twist on this type of film, yet it is still cool and funny. There’s a very ’80s, John Hughes feel to it. [The entrées arrive.] MN: Where are you going to be shooting your television show? AT: The Lower East Side. So I’m basically looking for a really gross warehouse there that someone will let me live in. We shoot on the streets of Manhattan two to three days a week, and then also in Silvercup Studios. MN: I’m sure if you put an ad on Craigslist, someone will let you come live in their gross warehouse. The question is, will they let

you out? [Laughs] AT: It’s out there. In LA, I got into researching building codes and zoning. I plan to do that here in Manhattan. MN: This is great—the most integrally New York conversation. Every New Yorker’s second job is real estate. G

INSIGHT: Where:

The Fat Radish, 17 Orchard St., 212-3004053; thefatradishnyc.com cocktail talk:

Nichols: “I’m a bourbon guy, or Tennessee whiskey. The Manhattan is such a great cocktail, garnished with an orange rind.” Tipton: “Bulleit rye is one of my favorite whiskeys. The Old Fashioned is usually my drink.”

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shades of grey this season, fall fashion runs the gamut of grey tones from deep textured charcoals to shimmering hues of silver and platinum.

1. Te Metropolis Mini bag by Furla is created in a lux variation of sheepskin and nappa leather to create a visual and tactile feast. Te gold chain strap and hardware beautifully ofset the small scale of this symphony in silvery grey. Tis bag ofers sophistication with a touch of whimsy that will make it a fashionable favorite. Furla, 973-218-1300

2. Te Garenne in Gris Shirt is the perfect autumn essential for the woman on the go. Its sleek yet simple styling makes it a sporty staple of your busy schedule. It can transition from day to night and jeans to jewels without missing a beat. Maje, 973-379-7970

3. Giorgio Armani has been wowing women with his modern classics for decades and this season is no exception. Te straightforward design of Armani’s Grey Ambre coat is complimented by the luxury of feece wool that is both exceptionally warm and wonderfully wearable. Te gradation from dark to light grey provides an extra touch of Armani high design.

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4. Add a dash of shimmer to your great greys this season with Tifany & Co.’s T Diamond Train band ring, bracelet and ring and bracelet that is crafed from 18k white gold.

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5. When considering the choicest in leather goods and handbags Gucci is beyond compare. Te iconic Italian house continues its preeminence in ladies purses this season with this shoulder bag made of the fnest aqua leather. Te piston closure gives a dashing fnish to the bag’s uncomplicated construction that will make an encore season afer season. Gucci, 973-564-7600

6. Tis complete look from Piazza Sempione em-

Photo © Tifany & Co.

braces the must have sports-luxe trend in fashion. Te top is created from scuba fabric and features a foral matelassé front panel, a jeweled neckline and raglan bracelet sleeves that perfectly compliment the smart jogger pants with their contrasting leather piping that exude relaxed sophistication. Te quilted leather jacket lends an element of construction that gives this ensemble a high fashion fnishing touch. Piazza Sempione, 973-379-3980

7. Reminiscent of Twiggy and the mod styles of

the 60’s, Saint Laurent presents their Babies Nary Jane triple strap pumps in silver glitter fabric that is both posh and playful. Tese breezy and spirited shoes will be the basis of many looks and will prove themselves the hit of any party this season. Saint Laurent, 973-921-9601

8. Te Audrey Grey Croc Embossed Handbag comes from Max Mara in gorgeous grey that will compliment all of your fall looks this year and then take you through season afer season in years to come. Like all Max Mara creations, the simplicity of this bag’s design is both youthful and mature and can be easily dressed up or can be relaxed and casual, making it a must have. Max Mara, 973-912-9003

9. Wrap yourself in elegance as you beat the elements with pearly panache. Alsace by Reiss is designed in a wool-blend that is sleek, stylish and sophisticated in its simple lines. Wear it with leather trousers and boots for a chic daytime look or dress it up with jewels and a seductive shoe for evenings on the town. reiss, 973-376-2200

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Mad about

MOSS

ElisabEth Moss, starring in the new release The One I LOve, is having a very good year. Mad Men costar Jon haMM gets the scoop.

PhotograPhy by shEryl niElds/CoPious ManagEMEnt

Jon Hamm: You’re coming off Top of the Lake (the Jane Campion miniseries), and you did two movies, The One I Love and Listen Up Philip, back-to-back, both of which showed at Sundance. You won a Golden Globe. Earlier in the year, I think my statement to you was, “You’re having a very good 2014 and it’s only February!” Elisabeth Moss: [Laughs] Yeah! JH: Obviously Mad Men has been a long run, an eightyear journey, but as you develop characters for something new, do you feel the difference? EM: It’s a lot scarier. We’ve had so much time to live with the characters on Mad Men. We’ve grown and changed with them. JH: You shot The One I Love in how many days? EM: Sixteen or 17. It was a completely different experience from Mad Men. We were sort of flying by the seat of our pants. But you don’t want to do the same thing on your hiatus. JH: I thought The One I Love was incredibly good. There wasn’t a full script for it, right? EM: No, there was a 50-page “script-ment” as they called it, which had the general structure, some scenes, and the last act . JH: What drew you to the project? EM: I just thought it was a great idea for a movie [to compare] the person you are at the beginning of a relationship to the person you are a couple years in. I called

Mark [Duplass, costar and executive producer] and said, “Are you sure you don’t want to make them write the script because the idea behind it is complicated, and I don’t want to mess it up.” He said, “ I’ve done this kind of movie. It’s going to be fine.” I’m a huge fan of Spike Jonze and Charlie Kaufman movies and thought it would be in that vein, which was cool. It was an indie, but it was going to look beautiful, like a real movie. JH: Was the improv the most difficult part? Or that you had so much crammed into a tight schedule? EM: We would shoot 15 pages a day and a lot of that would be improv. You kind of took it scene by scene. JH: Was that challenge part of the appeal? EM: It was also [the chance to explore] some ideas, like what is the ideal man and woman, and what is the ideal partner? What does the good girlfriend do? How would the ideal woman react to her boyfriend wanting to watch sports all day on the couch? It was fun to work all that out. Everyone shared their experiences and their relationships, and I liked that part, too. JH: Would that be on set or after you wrapped for the day? EM: Justin Lader [the scriptwriter] would write the night before, all night. You would get the scenes handed to you in the morning for that day. Everyone would pitch their ideas and say, “I want to try one this way,” and “I don’t think that works.” It was the most collaborative experience I’ve ever had.

Slate overcoat, Jason Wu ($5,500). Fivestory New York, 18 E. 69th St., 212-288-1338; jasonwustudio.com. Embroidered-lace contrast panel dress, Burberry Prorsum ($3,195). 9 E. 57th St., 212-407-7100; burberry.com. 18k white-gold 80-diamond ring (price on request); diamond ring with 3.27-carats of diamonds (price on request); 18k white-gold, 69 brilliant-cut diamond ring (price on request); and L’Heure du Diamant ring with 6.06-carats of diamonds (price on request), all Chopard. 709 Madison Ave., 212-223-2304; chopard.com. So Kate black patent pump, Christian Louboutin ($625). 965 Madison Ave., 212-396-1884; christianlouboutin.com. Earrings, Moss’s own

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JH: Would you ever want to direct? EM: I like my position in this world. I don’t know if directing is my thing, because I don’t know if I could talk to actors. JH: Did you learn anything either about production, script, or character during the process [of making The One I Love]? EM: The way Mark makes these films is interesting. He does them for little money in a few beautiful locations, so wherever you point the camera it’s gorgeous. He uses few actors and has really good material. If you have good material, like on Mad Men, and you hire people who are good at their jobs, it tends to work out. JH: Then you pivoted off and did Listen Up Philip, which was very different. What attracted you to that? EM: I loved the script and have always wanted to work with Jason Schwartzman. I thought the idea of us as a couple was really cool. JH: You’ve been acting since, I want to say, age 9... EM: Six. JH: I was reading it upside down, I apologize. EM: [Laughs] JH: Having been in the business over 20 years—does that ever inform your decisions about whom you want to work with? EM: You tend to gravitate to the same material, so you end up working with the same people. Do you know what I mean? JH: I look at the differences between The West Wing, Mad Men, Top of the Lake, Listen Up Philip, and The One I Love—that seems like a very wide [swath] of the [narrative] universe. EM: That’s true. Thank you. JH: Well, that’s a credit to you and your choices. EM: [Laughs] I just take what they hire me for. JH: That’s obviously not true. Are you developing anything you want to talk about? EM: I’ve been getting more into producing. Writing I don’t think is my thing. I bought this book and am developing it. I don’t think I can talk about it yet, but I’m really excited. As I was saying before, I learned that if you pick good material, that tends to get you pretty far, pretty fast. We have a great writer and a great director because the material is good. JH: With the projects you’re putting together, what do you respond to? The source material or the script? Or is it a character you want to play? EM: If anything wins, it’s the character. But it’s not going to work if it’s not a good script. JH: I have a really good project I’ve been developing. It’s about a secretary in the 1960s and how she grows and does this whole evolution. I think it would be fun for you to look at. EM: I can’t do it. I just can’t do it. JH: I mean, you should read it. EM : I don’t think I can do it. I don’t want to disappoint you. JH: Okay, that’s fair.

I learned If you pIck good materIal, that tends to get you pretty far, pretty fast. —elisabeth moss

EM: [Laughs] JH: You were born in LA, but you’ve lived in New York for a significant period of your life, so I feel you consider yourself a New Yorker at this point. EM: I’ve lived there off and on for 12 years now. JH: What is your go-to place—Manhattan or Brooklyn? It’s probably Staten Island. EM: Why wouldn’t it be Staten Island? It’s the greatest. By the way, Staten Island is amazing. JH: We love Staten Island. I’m not being ironic. It’s amazing. A couple of long bridges get you there. What is your neighborhood like? What’s your jam in New York? EM: I have always lived in the East Village. I don’t know why. Originally it was the cheaper apartments and I just stayed. It’s where I know where everything is. That’s my neighborhood. The Bowery Hotel has always been my place; I lived there for a couple of months. Gemma is my favorite restaurant. Fourth Street has a great bar that I used to spend way too much time in. I like it down there, although I’m thinking of moving elsewhere. JH: Is there a part of New York that means the most to you? EM: I love going to the theater. I can’t get over that feeling when you’re walking down a street in the 40s, with rows of theaters on either side. It’s 7:30 pm and you’re going to see a play, and so many people are also going to go see plays, which I think is so cool. There’s an excitement and there’s buzz. It brings me back to when I’ve done Broadway and makes me wish I were backstage in my dressing room getting ready. You can go to beautiful places, neighborhoods, and parks in many different states and countries, but there’s nothing like the theater district for me. JH: Do you remember the first time you saw a Broadway play? EM: It was Sunset Boulevard. I’ve seen it twice, once with Glenn Close, the other time with Patti LuPone.

Bambolina dress with detachable leather collar, Valentino ($4,390). 693 Fifth Ave.; valentino.com. Pink-gold Serpenti Tubogas semi-pavé diamond bracelet, Bulgari ($34,100). 730 Fifth Ave., 212-3159000; bulgari.com. 18k yellow-gold 1980 estate link bracelet, Beladora ($6,250). beladora.com. Azulea Band, De Beers ($800). 703 Fifth Ave., 212-906-0001; debeers.com. Earrings, Moss’s own

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What I knoW about you Is that you are a resoundIngly posItIve and happy person. —jon hamm

Wool and cotton jacket ($3,900), pants ($1,250), and collar ($450), Dior. 21 E. 57th St., 212-931-2950; dior.com. 18k yellow-gold 1971 Estate Aldo Cipullo love brooch, Asprey ($3,200); beladora.com. Platform bootie, Gucci ($1,100). 725 Fifth Ave., 212-826-2600; gucci.com beauté: Lancôme Teint Visionnaire foundation in Ivoire W ($60), Effacernes under-eye concealer in Clair II ($30), Blush Subtil Duo in Sheer Macaroon Pink ($30), Eyeshadow Color Design Infinité 24H in Timeless Taupe ($25), Cils Booster XL mascara primer ($25), Hypnôse Drama Mascara in Excessive Black ($28), Rouge in Love lipcolor in Jolie Rosalie ($28). Bergdorf Goodman, 754 Fifth Ave., 212-753-7300; lancome–usa.com. Chanel Le Vernis Nail Colour in Lotus Rouge ($27). Chanel, 15 E. 57th St., 212-355-5050; chanel.com. Oribe Rough Luxury Molding Wax ($35). Barneys New York, 660 Madison Ave., 212-826-8900; oribe.com. Serge Normant Meta Revive Dry Shampoo ($25). sergenormant.com

Styling by Karla Welch. Hair by Alex Polillo at The Magnet Agency using Oribe. Makeup by Sabrina Bedrani for Lancôme at Tracey Mattingly. Nails by Jolene Brodeur for ABTP. Styling assistance by Erica Cloud

Then I basically lived out my life waiting to get old enough to play that part. I also remember seeing The Will Rogers Follies. It was just such a great, oldfashioned, sad musical. I like sad musicals. JH: Would you ever want to be in a musical? EM: Yes. I’d have to go work on my voice a little bit, which is something I’ve always intended to do. I can hold a note. I can sing on key, but I feel I need to get a bigger voice. JH: Have you seen anything recently that’s turned your head? EM: God, there’s so much good stuff. Once! JH: Once—it’s Spanish for 11. It’s about Irish people who love to count in Spanish. They get to 11 by the end of the play. EM: You recommended Once. I loved the movie and the soundtrack. JH: Where did you get your appreciation for music? EM: Honestly I don’t know. First it was musicals like My Fair Lady and West Side Story. Those were like [whistles] the greatest things I have ever seen. Then the black-and-white movies: It Happened One Night and His Girl Friday. And it just went on from there. JH: I know you said you liked sad musicals, but most of those old-timey movies, while they did have an emotional core and a second-act downbeat, usually had a happy ending. What I know about you is that you are a resoundingly positive and happy person. Would you agree with that? EM: I think that’s a really good assessment. You would probably know better than I would, but yes, I absolutely agree. JH: To that end—and I did not write this question; it was on the list I was given to ask you—what makes you happiest? EM: I don’t know if this is the best answer, but working really makes me happy. I have been lucky to

work with really great people. I haven’t had many scarring experiences at work. JH: Bad news. EM: I just haven’t. I’ve had hard times; that’s for sure. Not everyone I’ve worked with has been a f***ing angel, but I am happiest when I’m at work. I know what I’m doing. Regardless of what else is happening in my life, I can go to work and things are okay. JH: Be in control of the situation. Know what you’re going to put into it and get out of it. EM: Yeah. JH: All right, these are questions that are a little more esoteric.... EM: My favorite color is blue. JH: Okay, blue. EM: Favorite food is spaghetti. JH: Spaghetti. Oh you should’ve gotten the lobster spaghetti. EM: Dammit. JH: Are there any actors you would like to work with? Any talent crushes? Not just actors, but filmmakers, producers, writers, dancers, or singers. EM: Magicians? [Laughs] JH: Magicians, auto mechanics. EM: Oh, auto mechanics, that’s a long list, we don’t have time. I think as far as actors, my girl crush is Marion Cotillard. She would definitely top my list. As for filmmakers, I would kill to work with the Coen Brothers. And Spike Jonze. And then there are your big guns, whom everyone would like to work with, like Scorsese and Baz Luhrmann. JH: We’ll cut the killing part out, because if we have a fact checker, they’ll have a record. EM: Oh my God! So starting again... JH: If you were to give a dinner party, who would you want at the table? Living or dead, past or present? EM: That’s so hard. JH: We’ll skip that one. EM: Let me try. Charlie Chaplin, because I love his work. But also because you never got to hear him talk much. I would also say Edward Hopper [the painter]. Marion Cotillard, to add some beauty to the dinner. And you. JH: And me? Aw, that’s very sweet. We’ve had dinner before. EM: Yes, we have. I thought we were having dinner right now. JH: Well, yes. The food hasn’t come yet. By the way, I should mention that all three of those people are joining us. EM: I’m so excited! JH: Marion is coming. I texted her earlier. She’s in town and loves Olive Garden.... Just sort of wrapping up, are there charities and causes you’re involved with? EM: You introduced me to one—St. Jude’s. You’ve been a supporter for a long time. I think it’s one of those causes that you can’t imagine not supporting. It’s an incredible organization that really has solid, forward movement in its field. G

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belle de noir

as the new york autumn settles in, a mix of nostalgic overcoats and romantic dresses bring the elegance and grace of the 1940s to life. PHOTOGRAPHY BY TOnY DuRAn STYLInG BY MARTInA nILSSOn

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Windowpane plaid coat, Yigal Azrouël ($2,200). Bloomingdale’s, 1000 Third Ave., 212-705-2000; bloomingdales.com. Black wool turtleneck, Salvatore Ferragamo ($1,490). 655 Fifth Ave., 212-759-3822; ferragamo.com opposite page: Crepe dress

with embroidered collar, Valentino ($4,390). 693 Fifth Ave.; valentino.com. Matt 10 tights, Falke ($59). Harry’s Shoes, 2299 Broadway, 212-874-2035; harrys-shoes.com

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Silk blend coat ($4,425) and blue leather D-Cube bag ($1,595), Tod’s. 650 Madison Ave., 212-644-5945; tods.com. Shirtfront, Barbara Bui ($390). 115–117 Wooster St., 212-6251938; barbarabui.com opposite page: on ryan: Cashmere turtleneck, Etro ($1,050). 720 Madison Ave., 212-317-9096; etro.com. Trousers, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane ($890). 80 Greene St., 212-431-3240; ysl. com. Cambridge wing ox, Cole Haan ($258). 620 Fifth Ave., 212-765-9747; colehaan.com on brittany: Rolanda wool herringbone jacket ($1,350), Scelta cashmere mohair knit sweater ($795), and wool jersey skirt ($525), Max Mara. 813 Madison Ave., 212-8796100; maxmara.com. Viennana suede pumps, Christian Louboutin ($1,095). 59 Horatio St., 212-255-1910; christianlouboutin.com

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Cashmere trench coat, Ralph Lauren Collection ($5,995). 888 Madison Ave., 212-434-8000; ralphlauren.com opposite page: Confetti petal print satin shell ($995) and skirt ($1,495), Monique Lhuillier. 19 E. 71st St., 212-683-3332; moniquelhuillier.com. Gloves, Emporio Armani ($295). 601 Madison Ave., 212-317-0800; armani .com. Handbag, Giorgio Armani ($2,095). 717 Fifth Ave., 212-209-3500; armani.com. Burgundy leather loafers, Tod’s ($795). 650 Madison Ave., 212-644-5945; tods.com

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on ryan: Shirt ($550) and

trousers ($890), Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. 80 Greene St., 212-431-3240; ysl.com. Eyeglasses, Sunday Somewhere ($225). Odin New York, 106 Greenwich Ave., 212-243-4724; sunday somewhere.com on brittany: Darika dress, Escada ($1,625). 7 E. 55th St., 212-755-2200; escada.com

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Embellished top ($7,675) and feather skirt ($4,325), Jenny Packham. Bergdorf Goodman, 754 Fifth Ave., 212-753-7300; bergdorfgoodman.com. Godiva flats, Sergio Rossi ($545). sergiorossi.com beautĂŠ: Giorgio Armani Fluid Master Primer ($57), Luminous Silk Foundation in @6.5 ($62), Fluid Sheer in #2 ($62), and Lip Maestro in Ecstacy ($33), 717 Fifth Ave., 212-339-5950; giorgioarmanibeautyusa.com. Smashbox Halo Highlighting Wand in Pearl ($32) and Limitless Liquid Liner Pen in Dark Black ($22). Sephora, 555 Broadway, 212-625-1309; smashbox. com. Yves Saint Laurent, Touche Ă&#x2030;clat in #3 ($41). Barneys, 660 Madison Ave., 212-826-8900; yslbeautyus.com. Bumble and Bumble Thickening Hairspray ($28). bumbleand bumble.com. Oribe Texturizing Spray ($42). Barneys, see above; oribe.com

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Cardinal houndstooth plaid and guipure jacket ($3,890) and skirt ($2,390), Oscar de la Renta. 772 Madison Ave., 212-288-5810; oscardelarenta.com opposite page: on brittany: Coat

($3,875) and bag ($3,795), Versace. 647 Fifth Ave., 212-317-0224; versace. com. Matt 10 tights, Falke ($59). Harryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Shoes, 2299 Broadway, 212-874-2035; harrys-shoes.com. Burgundy leather loafers, Todâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ($795). 650 Madison Ave., 212-644-5945; tods.com. on ryan: Shirt ($550) and trousers ($890), Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. 80 Greene St., 212-4313240; ysl.com. Cambridge wing ox, Cole Haan ($258). 620 Fifth Ave., 212-765-9747; colehaan.com Hair by Rob Talty at The Magnet Agency using Bumble and Bumble Makeup by Steeve Daviault for Linknyla.com Models: Brittany Burke / Factor Women McKenna at Ford Models Ryan Young/ LA Models

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photography courtesy of ralph lauren

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Ralph lauRen evolves the preppy aesthetic with a major launch. By RichaRd Nalley

The Polo Women’s Collection as shown in Ralph Lauren’s Fall/Winter 2014-15 runway show.

“A lot of people who have seen Polo for close to 50 years might find it hard to believe, but there’s never been a Polo for women,” says David Lauren, Ralph Lauren’s executive vice president for advertising, marketing, and corporate communications. Seriously, ladies—search your closet. Now search again later this summer, after the Polo Women’s Collection debuts August 28 inside the new 38,000-square-foot Polo Ralph Lauren flagship store on Fifth Avenue. The sprawling emporium, with a Polo Bar & Restaurant, will give Ralph fans a new way to marinate in everything Polo, while the new women’s collection displayed on the second and third floors will take shoppers to some unexpected places. But gently, in the preferred Ralph Lauren way. As much as any major retailer on the planet, Ralph Lauren has pulled off the neat trick of maintaining a crystal-clear image in consumers’ minds—the picture somehow never seems to change—while constantly evolving in plain sight. The $7 billion mega-marketer fields some 20 lines and labels these days, ranging far afield from seersucker jackets to tartan-plaid kilts. Lauren himself, so closely identified with Americana, has become a one-name celebrity—just “Ralph”—among the fashion-conscious from Berlin to Shanghai. The designer has said that he wants the new Polo Women’s Collection to “define a major story,” and that, too— leveraging the power of storytelling—is the Ralph Lauren way. “A really interesting thing about Ralph Lauren is that he seems to think in movies,” notes fashion industry consultant Jaqui Lividini, CEO of Lividini & Co., a noted brand-management firm in Manhattan. “He visualizes something in a very theatrical way, then all these different vignettes come to life.”

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“the Polo Women’s collection shares the iconic style of ivy league PreP With a doWntoWn edge, bohemian romance, and a cool sPortiness.” –ralph lauren

wrong in combining almost anything. It is part of Ralph Lauren’s particular gift and genius—not too strong a word for it—that his fans could almost imagine what the Polo Women’s Collection would look like before they saw it, even if they couldn’t envision the actual looks and combinations. There is still, somehow, after all these decades, an essential coherence to the idea of “Polo Ralph Lauren.” “Polo is so potent in terms of its DNA,” Lividini says. “Ralph is the master of brand intelligence: What is the brand, how does it act, how do you stay true to it and authentic? It’s not disparate at all—you walk into a Polo store and you know exactly where you are. There is nothing that goes into the men’s line—and I’m sure it will be exactly the same for the women’s—that doesn’t fit that DNA. It is extremely studied.” What the Polo Women’s Collection isn’t, to be sure, is classically Laurenesque preppy. It is too eclectic to exude that trademark, wistful note of Kennedy-era, summer-lawn-inHyannis Port nostalgia. But as Lisa Birnbach, writer, editor, and coauthor of 1980’s The Official Preppy Handbook and 2010’s True Prep, notes, few things Ralph stray too far from those roots. Besides, she says, “Fashion has sort of caught up with preppies. In 1980, preppies were proudly unfashionable: Clothes were baggy and they didn’t fit well; preppies were notorious for wearing their pants too short, for torn and faded-out clothes.” But she adds, preppies understand fit in a more sophisticated way than they did in the 1980s. “People mix and match. Now, thanks to Ralph Lauren and Polo and others, you can wear more

than the same four colors—now you can wear purple and orange and cerise and yellow and puce.” The Polo Women’s Collection and Lauren’s entire evolution of the preppy aesthetic since he launched the first Polo collection for men in 1968 can be seen not as turning away from the preppy idea, but as an acknowledgement that the original khaki-and-boat-shoes look is a lot broader based and more fluid than thought. Since Polo’s early days, as Birnbach notes, “J.Crew arrived, and Tommy Hilfiger, Tory Burch—all these people who are very connected to the tree of prep, but who found their own branches.” If the idea of prep is central to Polo, Polo is central to Ralph Lauren’s worldwide expansion plans. The logical question of “why now?” for launching the Polo Women’s Collection can be answered, at least in part, by the designer’s determination to open new dual-gender Polo stores, including, reportedly, flagships in Lee Gardens in Hong Kong and London’s Regent Street. As the first to open, the Fifth Avenue flagship will introduce the new dual-gender Polo in high style. The store at 711 Fifth Avenue—the former Disney Store space—features a newly restored 1927 limestone façade with highly ornamented cast-bronze window frames. The interior will offer up warm, honey-stained Southern heart pine millwork, and a mix of vintage and found fixtures. The decorative inspirations, ranging, the company says, from American boathouses and Adirondack lodges to New York and Brooklyn lofts, seem

to echo the Polo lines’ own diverse looks. Presented together, the men’s and women’s Polo lines will, if all succeeds according to plan, clarify the company’s sportswear offerings and add even more punch to the powerful Polo brand as it expands. The new Polo Women’s Collection, with prices roughly ranging from just under $50 to around $1,000, is slotted to occupy the broad middle of Lauren’s women’s offerings, taking the place of the old Rugby sportswear and performance-wear aesthetic on one hand, and replacing the Blue Label offerings at its upscale end. Fashion expert Lividini notes a subtle reasoning here: “Blue Label is basically just a collection, while Polo is an actual brand—there’s a nuance to that: One’s a label, one’s a brand, but it’s an important nuance.” The company also has high hopes that Polo Women’s wide-ranging aesthetic will appeal to buyers of the Collection and Black Label lines as well as to customers of the more youthful Denim & Supply labels. The big idea is to bring together a line, as with the original Polo brand for men, that is expansive enough to encompass the complete history of Ralph Lauren womenswear. That history, curiously enough, includes the actual birth of the Polo trademark. Says David Lauren, “The first appearance of the Polo player, the famous logo, was actually on the cuff of a women’s sleeve, but there has never actually been a brand called the Polo Women’s Collection, so this is an exciting time for us. Polo, right now, is probably one of the most familiar fashion brands in the world, and we’re hoping for the female equivalent.” G

PhotograPhy by greg Kessler (berets); courtesy of ralPh lauren (all others)

So what is the story envisioned here? As Ralph Lauren explains it himself, “The Polo Women’s Collection shares the iconic style of Ivy League prep with a downtown edge, bohemian romance, and a cool sportiness.” That’s a lot of ground to cover, but the first glimpse of the Polo Women’s Collection shown at the Fall 2014 runway show last February seemed to delight in a kind of free-spirited mash-up. (The company defines one aspect of the collection, for example, as “Heritage pieces meet a grunge aesthetic.”) When the Polo Women’s Collection offers a series of “little black dresses” with lace trim, puff sleeves, or contrast collars, you can easily see someone throwing on a Polo leather biker jacket over them. There is also a broad range in the color palette, with shades of muted grays, greens, and browns with downtowny blacks (plus leather and suede neutrals) set against near-nova bursts of brightness from candy-neoncolored Shetland sweaters and jackets. The classic Ralph Lauren version of the beacon and serape patterns turns up in everything from oversize cardigans and sweater vests to dresses and tote bags, which are paired with ’60s-ish fringed leather bags and concha belts or boho dark floral prints. Black leggings provide a foundation for nearly every look in the collection, from form-fit Parisian gamine black à la Jean Seberg in the Breathless era, to oversize slouchwear à la Diane Keaton in Annie Hall. There is also a strong reference to an outdoorsy style that the company refers to as having a “borrowed from the boys” feel. That part of the line incorporates elements like camouflage knits, serape sweaters, and performance jackets. (Though these chic, alternative versions are probably closer to “camp” than to any actual camping.) Overall, the Polo Women’s Collection comes across as a userfriendly toolbox for women who want a unique take on sportswear. There are enough intriguing, surprise elements in the collection to engage those who feel confident in stretching their look a bit, but there’s also enough underlying unity among the many pieces that you can’t go too far

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Ralph Lauren says he wants the Polo Women’s Collection to “define a major story.” Some have described the line as a millennial take on prep.

Black leggings provide the basis of numerous looks in the collection. The 38,000-square-foot Polo Ralph Lauren flagship debuts August 28 on Fifth Avenue.

Western patterns turn up on everything from oversize cardigans and sweater vests to dresses and tote bags.

Black berets provide a gamine Parisian touch.

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Spin claSS Meet the fashionista DJ’s creating the hottest Music vibes at runway shows anD fashion week afterparties. By Lauren Sherman photography By jennifer roBBinS

You expect socialites to sit front row at Chanel or land a feature in Vogue, but open for Blondie or perform with Madonna? Today, young women with great connections and great looks are forgoing traditional fashion jobs like PR or handbag design for the whirl of live soundtracking. These DJ socials—women who are as serious about their music as they are stylish while spinning—have brands flocking to them for everything from scoring Fashion Week afterparties to starring in ad campaigns. Recently, Gotham talked fashion, style, and breaking out in what has been traditionally a male-dominated business with seven of Manhattan’s most in-demand DJs.

haute sounds:

LeIGh LeZaRK

clubs in New York were having retro nights or ’80s Brit pop, whatever, and I didn’t really care about that. I wanted to hear newer music. You

We’ve done Zac Posen and Rachel Zoe shows, and I recently DJed Michael Kors’s Jet Set Experience event in Shanghai. What’s your process when scoring a runway show? For every runway soundtrack, we meet with the designer, look at their sketches and mood boards, fabrics, and pieces in various stages of completion. From there, we put together a long list of songs that would be good for the collection, then create a rough edit of a mix. Once the show’s looks come together and the run of order is determined, we do the fine tuning, timing the songs with the different looks. Ultimately the soundtrack is up to the designer—each one has a different style and taste in music—to set the tone of the collection. You’ve been a brand

and your DJ partners, Geordon Nicol and Greg Krelenstein, started playing at Don Hill’s, right? Yes. It was always a lot of fun.

ambassador for many labels. How would you describe your personal style in the DJ booth? I kind of do something different every

Madonna, Yoko Ono, and Jarvis Cocker all guest DJed there, too. How did you transform that one night a week into a career? Don Hill’s attracted a big fashion crowd, and there were people who wanted us to DJ their magazine party or runway show. Early on, we were asked to do show music for Henry Holland and Jeremy Scott.

time—in Shanghai, it was a Michael Kors striped sweater and giraffe-print skirt—but high heels are the only consistent thing I wear. I’m not very tall, just 5’8”, so heels are a must when DJing. Sounds of the season: Robyn and Röyksopp recently came out with a new EP, and Dev Hynes’s Palo Alto soundtrack is very good. And Beyoncé.

The twentysomething began DJing with two friends more than a decade ago while studying at Hunter College. They called themselves the Misshapes, named after a song by the British alt rock band Pulp. Since then, Lezark has collaborated with everyone from Madonna to Chanel, where she was appointed a brand ambassador in 2009. Along with attending runway shows and events on behalf of the fashion house, Lezark appeared as Coco Chanel in creative director Karl Lagerfeld’s 2010 short, Remember Now. Why did you want to be a DJ? All the indie

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going global:

CHElSEa lEYlanD

The London native, 26, attended the famous Bedales boarding schools (Daniel Day-Lewis and Cara Delevingne are alums) in Hampshire, England, before moving to New York to study acting at the Lee Strasberg institute. While there, Leyland caught the DJ bug. She now plays gigs globally—opening for Duran Duran, Nicki Minaj, and more—and has also modeled for brands like Cole Haan. You’ve traveled the world as a DJ. What have been your most memorable gigs? DJing at the

Design Museum Holon in Israel. To be able to do that for a Ron Arad party in the museum that he designed was just remarkable. When you’re vibing in the right way with the crowd, you feel like you’re taking them on a journey. Ultimately, as a DJ, you’re in the driver’s seat. Sounds of the season: Electronic. I’m interested in deep house. I pride myself on the fact that I listen to and play many genres: rock, hip-hop, R&B, dance hall, reggae, electronica, indie dance, along with deep house. I’m into Nicolas Jaar, a DJ-producer who recently started a band called Darkside. I think he’s got a really unique sound. If I could claim anyone’s music for my own, I would say him. Where do you go to listen to music? The Panther Room at Output in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. It’s also the best place in the city now to hear some of the most incredible DJs in the world. Aside from DJing, you’ve modeled and worked as a television host. What else do you have planned? The next step for me is [composing]

my own music. It’s going to allow me to take things to the next level and, you know, have a voice. How do you handle competition with so many DJs vying for a set number of plum gigs? In New

York, there are always a million people waiting to take your place. Just because you’re hot one second doesn’t mean your life is going to be like that in six months. I think staying humble and grateful for things is sort of the best way you can be.

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“When you’re vibing in the right Way With the croWd, you feel like you’re taking them on a journey.”

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OppOsite page: hair and makeup by mahfud ibrahim fOr exclusive artists. this page: hair and makeup by mahfud ibrahim fOr exclusive artists

’60s savvy: TENNEssEE THOMas The British-born Thomas, whose father, Pete, is best known as Elvis Costello’s longtime drummer, started an all-girl band, The Like, in high school, and toured for 10 years before breaking up in 2011. Thomas, now 29, moved to New York shortly afterward. Along with opening her own boutique, the Deep End Club, in the East Village, the musician has booked gigs for Madewell, Luxottica, and Zac Posen, and DJs regularly at the Soho Grand and Tribeca Grand hotels. You started DJing when The Like was still together. When we were on tour, people would ask

us to DJ the afterparty. We all loved music so much, and the band was inspired specifically by Motown and the British Invasion. The 1960s girl groups were

also a huge inspiration. Why did you move to New York after the band parted ways? I did it without having a plan. I helped a couple of friends with projects, and the DJing thing came along as this crazy gift from the heavens. I got a couple of regular gigs, and it became my job. I mostly play stuff from the ’60s; that’s where my passion lies. Picking a genre has worked in my favor. Sounds of the season: Les Surfs—they did “Be My Baby” in Spanish, which is really good. I just got this compilation of Asian girl groups doing classic songs, like “My Boy Lollipop” in Cantonese. What about new music? Wild Belle is amazing. The singer is very soulful. Then there’s Connan Mockasin from New Zealand, who is kind of a psychedelic Brian Jones alien. I also like Tame

Impala from Australia and Ariel Pink from LA. You run your own boutique? I sell records and young designers like Samantha Pleet, for whom I’ve DJed events, a line called Family Affairs, and my friend [British stylist and editor] Leith Clark’s collection for Wren. Do you feel women have more of an influence on DJing than when you started a decade ago? I feel the fashion industry has helped

that along. Toward the end of The Like, we were pretty much surviving by playing fashion parties and working with fashion brands. They came to us appreciating the vibe and the look that we’d cultivated. There are some guys who are into the fashion thing, too, but the girls have done an interesting job with it.

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party perfect:

MIa MOrettI The LA transplant, 29, began DJing when she was a student at the University of California, Los Angeles. Six years ago, after establishing herself on the Hollywood club scene, Moretti moved to New York and quickly formed close ties to the fashion industry. She DJed afterparties for designers like Prabal Gurung and even booked Chelsea Clinton’s wedding with DJ partner Caitlin Moe, aka Margot. Are women a bigger force in the industry than they were a decade ago? Definitely. When I

started in LA, there were a lot of girls who were DJs—like Daisy O’Dell and Lady Sinclair—and we did many girl nights at clubs. In New York, that shift happened later, simultaneous with the fashion world becoming interested in DJs. I wasn’t in New York 10 years ago, but I don’t think there were as many brand events then. Now, anytime a designer gets nominated for something or has a reason to get press, they’ll hire a DJ and have a party. Brands can really identify themselves with whom they book as the DJ—they’re looking for a very specific mood and feel, a visual definition that’s totally different from a club. What was your first big gig in the city? Blondie. I think I ran out of the room as soon as Debbie Harry walked into the green room, because I was scared to be in her space. Sounds of the season: I really like some of the remixes of Sam Smith’s stuff. His song “Stay With Me” was released earlier this year, but the remixes that came out more recently give it a new feel. The new RAC [Remix Artists Collective] and Chromeo albums are great as well. In the past year, you and Margot—your sometime DJ partner—started The Dolls. What are your plans for that project? We began writing original

music, so we formed a band. Our first single, “Summer of ’93”, was released last year. We’re releasing another single, “Southern Swing,” this summer. But for now, DJing pays the bills.

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opposite page: hair by sandrine bucarelli for julien farel restore salon & spa; makeup by andrew colvin for chanel; shot on location at no. 8. this page: hair by andre davis for julien farel restore salon & spa; makeup by ricky wilson for dior; shot on location at jazz room at the general

“I’m Into bAnks And the new blAck keys Album—those hAve been on rePeAt for the lAst month.”

rock roots:

AtLANtA DE cADENEt tAYLor The 22-year-old daughter of Duran Duran bassist John Taylor and photographer Amanda de Cadenet moved to New York from Los Angeles to model, but she DJs plenty, too. How did you get into DJing? I had a lot of

friends who were club DJs and thought that it looked really fun. One day I thought, Screw it, I’m going to buy myself a turntable, and I taught myself how to do it. My agents got me a job DJing for a Topshop party about three years ago, and the rest is history. What is your on-the-job look? I’m still figuring out my personal style. It’s experimental, but I wear a lot of dresses. Really high heels are a no-no. I try to wear things that look good and feel comfortable. What did your family think when you started playing gigs?

Well, my dad was thrilled. Once when he was in my apartment, I was showing him the setup, and his mind was blown that I could put songs on my

iTunes and manipulate them like vinyl. He loved it, and since then he’s been super supportive. We’re always sending music back and forth. Do you ever play Duran Duran while you’re DJing?

When he’s not in the room, yes. If he is there, he would not be into it. Sounds of the season: I’m super into Banks, and I really like the new Black Keys album—those have been on repeat for the last month. But there are times I go out of my comfort zone. I DJed in Miami, and I played a lot of ’70s-mixed, ’90s rap, some weird French music, and the current Little Dragon. You’ve modeled in quite a few fashion campaigns, including Forever 21 and Tezenis [an Italian lingerie and beachwear brand]. What else do you want to do? I had a

small part in my friend Gia Coppola’s movie, Palo Alto. I’d never acted before, and now I’m open to that. I’m told I have a set of pipes on me. I will not be the one to say that’s entirely true.

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Thirtysomething JaKissa Taylor-Semple started DJing in 2007 after her boyfriend convinced her that she had good taste in music. To amp up her skills, Taylor-Semple trained at New York DJ school Scratch Academy and began landing gigs—from Prada store openings to Chanel parties—at a seriously fast clip. Designer Alexander Wang and the Today show’s Hoda Kotb are fans. You were working in pharmaceutical PR before you switched gears and became a DJ. How did you manage such a drastic shift? In my head, I’ve always been a DJ. After

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graduating from Louisiana State University, I moved to New York and got a job in PR. The only department where they had openings was pharmaceuticals. Then I met my husband, who was a DJ and is a fellow music nerd. We would talk about music and what songs we thought went together, and he showed me the ropes. Beyond that, I went to Scratch Academy, because I wanted to take it seriously. How did your family react to your new life as a DJ? I come from a very traditional Southern family, so their idea of success is to go to school, get a good job, get married, etc. Shortly after I started DJing, I invited them to a nightclub where I was spinning. They were in the

booth with me while I was playing all this good old-school stuff, songs they had played for me when I was a child. And I felt a lightbulb went off in their heads. There are more female DJs than ever. What do women specifically bring to the booth? We’re very intuitive. If there’s a direction

you’re going in and it’s not exactly right, you feel it right away. A guy will plod along for 20 minutes and then switch it up. Sounds of the season: Because my clients are so varied—from Urban Decay to the CFDA—I have to play different genres all the time. I’m personally into the groovy indie stuff: Phantogram, Tiny Heart, Chromeo’s new album, Pharrell’s new album.

this page: hair and makeup by mahfud with exclusive artists for nars. opposite page: hair and makeup by giorgio armani beauty

fashion favorite: DJ Kiss

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“I go all over the sPectrum, from donna summer to PItbull. madonna always.”

society spin:

MARJoRie GUBeLMAnn This socialite entrepreneur, 45, found her calling behind the turntable later than most. Gubelmann, whose great-grandfather was the famous inventor William S. Gubelmann (he created adding and accounting machines, among other business devices), has spent the last decade running Vie Luxe International, a home fragrance company that also makes private label products for designers like Oscar de la Renta and Calvin Klein. In between Vie Luxe and her numerous charity projects—she has worked with amfAR, the New York Botanical Garden, Memorial Sloan Kettering, and more—Gubelmann managed to rekindle her college-era love of DJing.

What inspired you to become a DJ? I was a radio disc jockey in college, going by the name of Mad Marj. It somehow came up at Sunday lunch with [Paper editorial director] Mickey Boardman about three years ago. He asked me to DJ his birthday party, and I said I’d only do it for 15 minutes. It turned into three hours. I wouldn’t leave. So I attended a DJ school, Scratch Academy. And it just went from zero to 60 in 20 seconds. I’m having the best time. What did your family and friends say? I have the coolest family in the world. The Gubelmanns have always been the biggest cheerleaders for anything my brother and I do. My son is proud. And my friends

are big supporters. They made it so easy. What has become your music signature? I was raised in England in the ’70s, and my father and mother were both into disco, so that was my first music memory. I play songs that most people have been dancing to in their underpants for the past 30 years while getting ready to go out. I always play Donna Summer, Grace Jones, Rihanna, Ne-Yo, Pitbull. Madonna always. Duran Duran. New Order. Erasure. I go all over the spectrum. Describe your DJ look. I am definitely a little overdressed. I like to wear a fancy frock—Oscar de la Renta, Vera Wang—and lots of jewelry, but that’s how I would dress whether I was DJing or not.

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R photography courtesy of library of congress prints and photographs division

Manhattan-born Theodore Roosevelt was the youngest president of the United States. He overcame a sickly childhood to become an avid outdoorsman and environmentalist.

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R RADICAL

PRIVILEGE

A new Ken Burns series chronicles the rise of the roosevelts, new YorK’s onlY presidentiAl politicAl dYnAstY, widelY viewed As AmericA’s most importAnt. locAl descendAnts of teddY, fdr, And eleAnor weigh in on the fAmilY legAcY And the price of multigenerAtionAl fAme.

photography by tk; illustration by tk

By Delia von neuschatz

“This is an American Downton Abbey with two virtues. One, it’s all true, and two, it’s American made,” says award-winning documentary filmmaker Ken Burns about the interwoven saga of Theodore, Franklin, and Eleanor Roosevelt, the subject of his latest feature, The Roosevelts: An Intimate History. (The seven-part, 14-hour series premieres on PBS this month.) “These are people who, although they are bold-faced names, have an intimacy with us because of the problems they’ve had—divorces and traumas and deaths and more divorces, afflictions, and infidelities. These are things that we struggle with in our own lives,” adds Burns. Representing two branches of the prominent, centuries-old New York family, the documentary focuses on three of its larger-than-life figures who transformed the United States by cementing its prominence abroad and improving the welfare of millions of people at home. “No other American family has touched so many lives,” says Burns. While the Roosevelts don’t dominate the headlines today like the Kennedys, another American dynastic clan of multigenerational fame, their impact remains far-reaching. “You want to go through the Lincoln Tunnel?” asks Burns. “You want to fly out of LaGuardia? You want to drive in a national park or collect Social Security? You can look to the Roosevelts for all of that. There’s almost nothing you can do in this country today that isn’t marked by them.” Even though the Roosevelt epic played out on a global

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stage, the clan for 10 generations remained firmly rooted in New York. “Members of my family have been here since the 1600s, and that creates a great sense of continuity and connection to the city,” says 38-year-old Theodore Roosevelt V, the great-greatgrandson of the 26th president. Hailing from the Netherlands, the Roosevelts were among the earliest settlers in the Dutch colony of New Amsterdam, which later became New York. They arrived in the steerage section of a sailing ship and went on to build a fortune (though not on the scale of the Rockefellers or Carnegies) largely based on Manhattan real estate, banking, and West Indian sugar. Ken Burns notes that after these early American settlers achieved financial success, “they could have chosen to just cash their checks and be content, but that wasn’t enough for them.” Money as an end goal wasn’t sufficient—Teddy Roosevelt’s forebears took to heart the Christian ethos that a life well lived was in service to others. Teddy’s father, Theodore Roosevelt Sr., was considered something of an oddity among his Gilded Age set—a philanthropist who helped found hospitals, aid societies, and museums, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Museum of Natural History. For their charitable activities and, in later years, their social activism, “the Roosevelts were branded socialists, communists, [in the case of FDR] betrayers of their class, and anti-American,” says Burns.

Eleanor and Franklin D. Roosevelt entertain King George VI and Queen Elizabeth of the UK at their Hyde Park estate in 1939. from left: Eleanor Roosevelt, King George VI, Sara Roosevelt, Queen Elizabeth, and Franklin D. Roosevelt.

patrician had turned into a burly, barrel-chested, bull-necked cowboy—one with a profound respect for the environment and a zeal to protect it. (This adventure also left him a far poorer man—he lost a good part of his fortune while out West, due to bad investments. But neither Teddy or, later, FDR were interested in business.) Inaugurated at the age of 42—the youngest person to become president—America’s “Rough Rider” would go on to pass ground-breaking legislation. His many progressive accomplishments included federal protection for hundreds of millions of acres of land, an area equivalent to the Eastern seaboard from Maine to Florida; the building of the Panama Canal; and providing a “square deal” for many Americans by busting exploitative business trusts and enacting consumer-protection legislation. “With Teddy, you had the beginnings of social justice, and FDR and Eleanor carried that momentum much further,” Goodwin says. For the trio, it was a family affair. When Eleanor married Franklin, she didn’t have to change her surname because as a distant cousin, she shared it. Since

Theodore was Eleanor’s uncle, he gave his favorite niece away at her wedding and then promptly proceeded to steal the show. Like Theodore Roosevelt, FDR and Eleanor had overcome physical and psychological hardships. “They were all wounded people,” says Ken Burns. Tall, handsome, and outgoing, Franklin was struck by polio at the age of 39, which left him paralyzed from the waist down, an illness that “made him aware of other disadvantaged people,” says Goodwin. Franklin Roosevelt, elected to a record four terms in office, lifted America out of the Great Depression with his New Deal initiatives, which provided jobs, economic growth, and fiscal reform. And, he led the United States to an Allied victory in World War II, setting the country on a course of unprecedented prosperity. “Before FDR,” notes writer George F. Will in Burns’s documentary, “the assumption was that the government existed to produce the conditions for the pursuit of happiness. But FDR asked ‘Why stop there?’ The federal government can, in no small measure, deliver happiness, which is understood to be material well-being.”

photography by photoquest/getty Images (royals). opposIte: photography by DaNIel J. WhIte, floreNtINe fIlms (burNs); fotosearch/getty Images (fraNklIN aND eleaNor); bettmaN/corbIs (famIly portraIt)

he number of detractors grew with Teddy and FDR’s ambitions for the national stage, the rough and tumble of early 20th-century politics an unlikely and often unwelcoming milieu for sons of privilege. But early-life adversity for Teddy, FDR, and Eleanor Roosevelt endowed them with something money can’t buy—an uncommon grit, says noted historian and biographer Doris Kearns Goodwin, author of The Bully Pulpit about Teddy Roosevelt and William Howard Taft and No Ordinary Time about Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt. She says Teddy exhibited an extraordinary perseverance throughout his life. “He was a weakly and asthmatic child who built up his strength through punishing physical activity. He was not a gifted writer, but he churned out some 40 books, some of them quite distinguished. After the near simultaneous deaths of his first wife and his mother, he escaped New York to become a cattle rancher in the Dakota Territory. Working and riding tirelessly, pushing himself to the limit physically, and standing up to local toughs, Roosevelt eventually won the respect of the area’s plainspoken townspeople. He emerged from the Western plains a transformed man. Over the course of a few years, the slight, bespectacled, asthmatic East Coast

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“No other American family has touched so many lives,” says filmmaker Ken Burns, whose latest feature chronicles the lives of Theodore, Franklin, and Eleanor Roosevelt.

The future president Franklin D. Roosevelt and wife, Eleanor Roosevelt, in 1916. They were distant cousins; her uncle was Teddy Roosevelt.

“FDR anD ElEanoR wERE thE most inFluEntial FiRst couplE inamERican histoRy.” —ken burns

The Roosevelt family were among the earliest settlers of New Amsterdam, which later became New York. above: Theodore Roosevelt and sons in 1900. From left, Theodore, Kermit, Quentin, and Archibald.

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Millennial heritage: Maura Roosevelt (left), a writing professor at New York University, and Rachel Roosevelt, a director of a policy intelligence firm in New York, are both involved in Brooklyn-based community causes and nonprofits.

“It’s dIffIcult to escape because when you’ve got the name, you can’t hIde.”

—anna eleanor roosevelt

Ted Roosevelt V, like his presidential forebear, is active in environmental efforts.

Eleanor, for her part, had been her husband’s liberal conscience, tenaciously defending the underdog, and demonstrating an empathy for people that many believe was a result of her own unhappy childhood. She was considered an unattractive child. Alcoholism ran rampant through her family, and her father eventually succumbed to complications from his addiction, dying one year after his wife’s death. Eleanor was orphaned before her 10th birthday. Her namesake granddaughter, Anna Eleanor Roosevelt, who is chair of the Roosevelt Institute in Manhattan, says that her grandmother’s own struggles

helped her “understand where the other person was coming from. Eleanor was the ultimate listener, and I never forget the power of being interested in other people—how transformative that is—and of being respectful of the contribution they make.” Historian Geoffrey Ward, an author of The Roosevelts: An Intimate History, along with Burns, sees Eleanor Roosevelt as “a miracle of the human spirit,” pushing through her childhood difficulties and later, through the betrayal she felt at her husband’s affair (with her former social secretary, Lucy Mercer). “She learned early on that the way to be loved is to do things for people, to help them,” says Ward, and so, she “lived to meet the needs of others.” As first lady, Eleanor Roosevelt fought for civil rights. She improved conditions for African Americans in factories that were churning out material for the war effort. She was instrumental in getting

wartime manufacturers to employ women and in providing day-care centers so they could be free to earn a living. Roosevelt held weekly press conferences at which only women were allowed, thereby forcing newspapers to hire female journalists. After the war, she fought for the disadvantaged around the world, chairing the UN Commission on Human Rights and overseeing the drafting of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights. “FDR and Eleanor were the most influential first couple in American history,” says Burns. As seen countless times, decades of power and acclaim don’t translate into happiness or success for many members of legacy dynasties, and the Roosevelts weren’t spared the consequences of fame’s harsh spotlight. “One of the worst things in the world is being the child of a president. It’s a terrible life they lead,” FDR once remarked. Counting 21 marriages among them,

photography from left: Clint Spaulding/patriCkmCmullan.Com (theodore rooSevelt v); gregg delman (two women). Styling by lauren finney. hair by andre daviS for julien farel Salon. makeup by riCky wilSon for dior. photographed on loCation at dear irving. oppoSite page: ap photo/mark lennihan (rooSevelt iSland); ap photo/jaCquelyn martin (anna eleanor rooSevelt)

on maura : Davineta dress, Escada ($1,225). 7 E. 55th St., 212-755-2200; escada.com. Gold-plated earrings, Gerard Yosca ($325). Chuckies, 1169 Madison Ave., 212-249-2254; yosca.com. Gold-plated tribal cuff, Michelle Campbell ($220). latestrevival.com. Queen pumps, Stuart Weitzman ($375). 118 Spring St., 212-226-3440; stuartweitzman.com. on rachel: Asymmetrical herringbone dress, Stella McCartney ($835). Barneys New York, 660 Madison Ave., 212-826-8900; barneys. com. Brass-silver extra-large triangular stud cuff, Jennifer Fisher ($1,155). Barneys New York, see above. Ari velvet pumps, Jimmy Choo ($675). 716 Madison Ave., 212-7597078; jimmychoo.com

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Roosevelt Island, the site of the new memorial, Four Freedoms Park, honoring FDR. below: Anna Eleanor Roosevelt, Eleanor and Franklin’s granddaughter and chair of The Roosevelt Institute.

none of Franklin and Eleanor’s five children achieved the national stature associated with the family name “and some of them, in fact, demeaned it,” observed Eleanor’s friend Abram Sacher in Goodwin’s Pulitzer Prize–winning No Ordinary Time, “by exhibiting an astonishing lack of sensitivity about using their father’s influence to make money.” Her children’s sometimes scandal-plagued and often disappointing careers and broken relationships were a chronic source of despair for the first lady.

ubsequent generations had a tough go of it, too. Franklin’s eldest grandson, the fourtime-married author Curtis Roosevelt, writes about a lonely, awkward childhood in his book, Too Close to the Sun: “The idea that I might be suffering from growing up in the orbits of my grandfather and grandmother, whose powerful auras were double-edged, was untenable. To recognize that my family situation was actually causing harm would have forced my mother and stepfather—and everyone else in the family—to examine truths that struck too close to home.” Another grandson, Upper West Side resident and economics professor Franklin D. Roosevelt III, elaborates on those double-edged auras: “My family’s name has offered me opportunities I might never have had, and it has gotten me out of speeding tickets once or twice. But the flip side is that everyone sees you through a prism and you have to work to be taken for who you are and not as FDR’s grandson. It’s not debilitating, but it is sometimes frustrating to play this role.” Granddaughter Anna Eleanor Roosevelt sees the enduring celebrity associated with a name like Roosevelt as a chronic headache. “It’s difficult to escape, because when you’ve got the name, you can’t hide,” she says. “The problem is in understanding

your place in that celebrity. [For me, it helps] to weave in my own views on what my forebears contributed to our country and our world,” says Roosevelt, who in addition to chairing the Roosevelt Institute is CEO of Goodwill Industries of Northern New England. But Phoebe Roosevelt, FDR’s great-granddaughter and a former attorney for the City of New York’s Affirmative Action Division, takes the significance of her last name somewhat in stride. “It’s not who you’re related to,” she says. “It’s who you are. At the end of the day, you are who you are and you have to live your own life.” Successive generations of Roosevelts have resolutely pursued their own lives, with one member, Joshua Boettiger, becoming a rabbi. A uniting thread, however, is “the feeling of responsibility to do valuable work in politics and the community,” according to Maura Roosevelt, a great-granddaughter of FDR and Eleanor. The 30-year-old NYU writing professor, currently at work on her first novel, has been involved with various community activist movements since her college days, when she campaigned for fair labor practices on the Harvard campus and more recently, in her Williamsburg neighborhood, where she was an advocate for the development of mixed-income housing. This sense of duty prevails regardless of political allegiances, which are generally split along ancestral lines. Teddy Roosevelt’s descendants often vote the Republican ticket, while scions of the FDR branch of the family largely support Democratic causes—this despite the fact that “today, Teddy Roosevelt’s politics would be considered to the left of Barack Obama’s,” according to Ken Burns. “My family history has instilled in me a sense of responsibility to give back to the community,” says Rachel Roosevelt, the 30-year old managing director of a New York City policy intelligence firm and a great-great-granddaughter of the president’s first cousin. It has also imparted in this former member of the US Ski Team a love of the outdoors. “I have a real appreciation for nature, and I share Teddy Roosevelt’s love for wide-open spaces,” she says. Rachel’s enthusiasm for the environment and her sense of civic duty are both channeled in volunteer work at Stoked, a Brooklyn-based nonprofit whose aim is to empower inner-city youths through action sports. “With family members like Teddy, FDR, and Eleanor, it’s hard not to be reminded that you can always do more,” says Ted Roosevelt, managing director of a hedge fund based in New York City. Like his great-great-grandfather, Ted is committed to environmental conservation and is involved with ecoAmerica and the New York League of Conservation Voters. Franklin D. Roosevelt III, who as a college professor of macroeconomics teaches about “what the government should be doing with its money,” shares his grandmother’s concern for outsiders. His life’s major “extracurricular activity” has been supporting the racially diverse Manhattan

Country School, which was founded nearly 50 years ago with the mission to aid the underserved. Granddaughter Anna Eleanor Roosevelt says her work at the Roosevelt Institute is devoted to preserving Franklin and Eleanor’s progressive legacy of social justice and equal opportunity. It is only fitting the Roosevelt Institute is located in New York, rather than DC, because this is where the Roosevelt saga began. “Teddy, Franklin, and Eleanor were men and women of Manhattan. They were Gothamites,” says Ken Burns. “They were people involved in the business of Manhattan, and the business of Manhattan is two things: money and politics and therefore, by extension, power.” The Roosevelt dynasty is the only presidential political dynasty to have originated in New York, and it is arguably America’s most important one. G

Roosevelts in new YoRk todaY The Theodore roosevelT line

Andrew Roosevelt: A descendant of Cornelius Roosevelt, President Theodore Roosevelt’s grandfather. He is a founder of GGC, Inc., a venture capital frm. Simon Roosevelt: Great-great-grandson of TR, director of Equator, LLC, a frm that provides natural resources management services. Theodore Roosevelt IV: Great-grandson of TR. He is a managing director of investment banking at Barclays Capital. Theodore Roosevelt V: Great-great-grandson of TR. He is managing director at GoldenTree Asset Management, a hedge fund. Philip Roosevelt: A managing editor at Barron’s. Rachel Roosevelt: A descendant of TR’s frst cousin. She is a director at SGH Macro Advisors. The Franklin and eleanor roosevelT line

FDR III: Grandson of FDR and Eleanor. Currently a professor of macroeconomics at the Metropolitan College of New York, he also taught macroeconomics at Sarah Lawrence College for many years. Maura Roosevelt: Great-granddaughter of Eleanor and FDR. She’s a professor of writing at NYU and is currently working on her frst novel.

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The Price of ivory With the ever-expanding worldwide market for illegal luxury goods, African elephants are being hunted to extinction for their lucrative tusks. Here, Chelsea Clinton shares her passion for these exceptional animals, and the Clinton Global Initiative’s efforts to save them. by elIzAbetH e. tHorp

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photography by max orenstein/clinton foundation (clinton); opposite page: mark deeble and victoria stone/markdeeble.wordpress.com

t’s an unimaginable horror. Satao, an iconic male African bush ele- trade. The Partnership to Save Africa’s Elephants initiative partners include the phant, who was born in the late 1960s, should have lived a natural life Wildlife Conservation Society, World Wildlife Fund, African Wildlife of 70 years. But he was found dead in Kenya’s Tsavo East National Foundation, International Fund for Animal Welfare, the Nature Conservancy, Park in June. Poachers took down Satao, who weighed an estimated Conservation International, and 11 other nongovernmental organizations, workseven tons, with a single poisoned arrow to his flank. His signature ing together to halt the decline of African elephants. Chelsea Clinton, due to have her first child in the fall, still keeps a packed schedivory tusks, which weighed more than 100 pounds each, had been hacked off. The Tsavo Trust, a conservation group that monitors ule at the foundation, passionately promoting initiatives close to her heart: the elephant populations of Tsavo in partnership with the Kenya empowering women and girls, clean drinking water, combating childhood obeWildlife Services, knew Satao well because of its focus on protecting large sity, and the elephant poaching crisis. We sat down with Clinton, vice chair of the Clinton Foundation, to talk about its efforts to save “tuskers” which are lucrative targets for poachAfrican elephants. ers. But Satao was so horribly butchered that the conservation groups who tracked his every move When was the first time you learned about the could not immediately identify him. horrors of elephant poaching? Why would anyone want to kill the world’s largChelsea Clinton: I remember vividly: My mothest land mammal—a highly intelligent species with er’s parents moved to Arkansas right before a lifespan as long as a human’s? An animal with Christmas in 1987, and I remember my grandparpowerful family bonds and a memory that far surents asking what I wanted for Christmas. My passes ours and spans a lifetime? Scientists have grandmother said, “We’ll give you a membership found that elephants are capable of elaborate and a subscription to anything that you want,” so I thought and deep feeling; they mourn deeply for picked National Geographic and possibly Greenpeace lost loved ones, even shedding tears and suffering or Conservation International. I just wanted to depression. They have a sense of empathy that projknow everything I could about what was happening ects beyond their species. with the environment and conservation. I was so So why are these gorgeous creatures being shocked that elephants were under such duress, and slaughtered? It’s for that objet d’art on your mantelthe only thing that I could do was to ask my grandpiece, the necklace in your jewelry box, the hair parents to continue to support organizations that ornament on your dresser, and the ivory keys of were trying to save the elephants as my Christmas your custom piano. present every year. While elephant poaching has been a grave How does CGI coordinate this gigantic underchallenge at different times during the last century, taking with so many different partners? it has recently risen to alarming levels. In 2012, There are three parts of the CGI commitment: You some 35,000 African elephants were killed, about stop the killing, stop the trafficking, and stop the a 10th of the remaining population, representing demand. One of the first things we did was assess the worst mass slaughter of elephants since the what each organization was doing and where there international ivory trade was banned in 1990. were gaps—whether functionally or geographically— Roughly the same number were killed last year as so that the additional monies could be invested in well. African forest elephants in particular have helping to fill those voids. Or continue to double been devastated by poaching and have declined down on strategies that were working: The Howard by about 76 percent since 2002. At this rate, African G. Buffett Foundation made an investment in Gabon, forest elephants could effectively become extinct —Chelsea Clinton because Gabon had already started to increase its over the next decade. emphasis on conservation and increase its number of The wildlife trade is one of the world’s most profitrangers and ranger training to try and protect its eleable criminal activities, ranking fifth globally in terms of value—estimated at $7 billion to $10 billion a year, behind trafficking in drugs, phants. Now we have US Marines training Gabon rangers, because it’s not only people, and oil; and counterfeiting. Today’s ivory traffickers are well-organized about protecting the elephants, it’s about the security of the country. Gabon, like syndicates that function as transnational criminal networks and often participate so many countries where poaching is happening, is being preyed upon by armed groups that are destabilizing forces throughout West Africa and East Africa. in trafficking drugs and weapons. Some have links with terrorist networks. According to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Tell me more about security concerns and government cooperation. Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), as much as 70 percent of elephant ivory is trans- The FBI is working with Interpol, as are various national intelligence ported to China, where it is sold for up to $1,500 per pound and carved into groups, because, increasingly, poaching is part of the most nefarious activities throughout Africa—whether it’s running guns or people or drugs— jewelry, religious figurines, and trinkets. In September 2013, at the Clinton Global Initiative (CGI) annual meeting, so there’s a real security interest not only for the countries that are affected Hillary and Chelsea Clinton unveiled an $80 million endeavor to stop the ivory but for all of us to stop poaching.

“STo P Th e

k IllIn g , STo P

The Tra f f Ic k In g , a n d STo P

Th e d e m a n d .”

left :

Satao, a male bush elephant born in the late 1960s, was killed for his tusks in Kenya’s Tsavo East National Park earlier this year.

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Veniaturem dolupta doloreiuris et quis nectoremo es rempore sum, eatum ut quasit ipsam Veribus ea del in ea estemol orrumquam, odicitem eVenim ut quisque Voloriorem qui sum ex eatet eum, sitatur sincte Velendae dolupta tiatem eium fugias Volorent quid ea Voluptatio magnat aut ration estium

Chelsea Clinton photographing wild elephants during her 2013 trip to Africa. Elephants form deep emotional bonds with family members that may rival our own.

Government-issued weapons for fighting poachers and tusks seized in Chad’s Zakouma National Park. In the last decade, 90 percent of the park’s elephants have been poached.

photography by tk; illustration by tk

While working to protect elephants in Garamba National Park in the DRC, park rangers show a tusk they confiscated.

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illustration by shutterstock. opposite page: photography by barbara kinney/clinton foundation (clinton); mike hill/getty images (elephants); alvaro canovas/getty images (garamba national park); jean liou/afp/getty images (weapons)

I think people will be very interested to know that poaching has direct links to terrorism. There’s irrefutable evidence that Al Qaeda in North Africa; the Lord’s Resistance Army in Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC); and the Janjaweed from Sudan, who are coming into Uganda and the DRC, are all engaged in poaching, because, sadly, ivory is an easily accessible commodity to them. It’s become a lubricant that greases the wheels for the shipment of drugs, guns, and people. I don’t think many people realize the brutality involved when elephants are killed for ivory. One misconception is that taking off the tusk is like extracting a tooth. Elephants cannot live without their tusks; they are absolutely crucial to their survival. What happens with the ivory after the elephants are killed? Is there a black market? The tusks are removed and then trekked out to a port. In East Africa, a lot of ivory flows out of Dar es Salaam in Tanzania, and Mombasa and [other ports in] Kenya, and it largely goes to Asia. China, by far, is the biggest market; Vietnam and Thailand are also significant markets. The vast majority [of ivory] is transported in tusk form. When it gets to China, the tusks are then cut down and made into commodities and luxury goods—whether it be ivory Buddhas, chopsticks, hair clips, or the handles of a luxury handbag. Why the high demand for ivory in Asia? In China, historically, ivory has been synonymous with ascension into the middle class and prosperity. One of the challenges along the continuum with trying to stop the demand is to find replacement products—so that ivory is no longer synonymous with rising affluence, but that, say, a Louis Vuitton handbag could be. When you went to Africa last summer, what did you learn from being on the ground? We went where there are indigenous elephant populations— from Malawi up to Tanzania. In Tanzania we were in Tarangire National Park; it was amazing not only to see the elephants in all of their magnificence but to see the families, to understand on a deeper level why it’s so important that the matriarchs—which are increasingly the ones that are killed because they’re the oldest and have the biggest tusks—not be slaughtered. Without the guidance of those older figures, it’s hard for younger families to survive. And the park rangers are in such peril protecting the older elephants. Yes. More than a thousand rangers have been killed over the last decade protecting elephants and other wildlife. They feel called to this work for the elephants’ sake, but also recognize this is important to their country’s future. Why do you think elephants mean so much to you and your mother? The first elephants that I saw were in the Little Rock Zoo when I was little. What I felt then was just magnified profoundly when I went with my mom to Africa as a

teenager. It is this sense of a family, ultimately—the family unit of elephants and the affection and the commitment to their families and to the other elephant families in the area. Also, elephants are so crucial to the ecosystem. They’re sort of the honeybees of the African savannah or their forest environment. Can you share any progress reports? Judith McHale—who worked for my mom in the State Department, liaising on conservation efforts there—is chairing the [President’s Advisory Council on Wildlife Trafficking]. We fully support everything the Obama administration has done and strongly support an ivory ban here at home. We think that’s a critical move for the United States to make—not only for our own moral standing, but also because there is no argument for ivory being indispensible. There are very good substitute materials—whether it’s for a piano or a musical pick, or any of the utilitarian uses of ivory—so we really have been deeply enthusiastic about the commission’s work. I understand you’re planning on doing something during Fashion Week? Most of the major luxury goods houses don’t use ivory. The challenge is: How do we help their products become substitutions for ivory, in East Asia in particular? Something like a Louis Vuitton bag or an Hermès scarf or Donna Karan dress? How can those become the same types of status symbols that ivory historically has been? Also, how can we work with the fashion industry here in the US to raise awareness about this issue so that American consumers become aware of why you should never buy ivory? How can someone who is reading this help? One, don’t buy ivory, which sounds self-evident but it isn’t. You’ll see stores that still sell ivory, because there is no carbon-dating equivalent for ivory. It’s impossible to assess its age, so a lot of new ivory gets laundered through antiques stores. The second thing is to support organizations that are really making a difference in this fight—whether that’s big organizations like the Wildlife Conservation Society, which has the most extensive efforts throughout Africa, or more localized organizations like the African Wildlife Foundation, which is helping to provide economic opportunities to many of the vulnerable communities around parks, often through eco-tourism programs. There’s such a range of organizations doing tremendous work that are part of our CGI commitment—yet even more work could be done if there were even more resources to do it. And also use your voice to help educate others about why this issue is so important, particularly given the number of misconceptions around ivory. I think that’s really where young people can help play a big role, using their voices offline and online, because a lot of people just don’t know what a tragedy elephant poaching really is, not just for the elephants but for the most affected communities. Ultimately, we all bear responsibility. G

Save the elephantS Be active in the Battle to stop elephant poaching.

“Each day, it is estimated that 96 elephants are brutally killed in Africa for their ivory,” says Cristián Samper, president and CEO of the Wildlife Conservation Society. “Only a global movement will end the slaughter and help to ensure the survival of these magnificent animals. The Clinton Foundation is an important part of this movement. Secretary Clinton and Chelsea Clinton have used their leadership to bring attention to the threat facing Africa’s elephants and to help gather partners across the globe to join together in this fight. We are working on all fronts to stop the killing and to stop the trafficking and demand for ivory.” to learn more aBout this crisis and to make a donation, go to:

african Wildlife Foundation awf.org partnership to save africa’s elephants clintonfoundation.org conservation international conservation.org international Fund for animal Welfare: ifaw.org nature conservacy nature.org Wildlife conservation society wcs.org World Wildlife Fund worldwildlife.org

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As the Financial District continues to evolve into a trendy residential enclave, a new condo seems poised to push the area’s buzzworthiness even further. Called 50 West, the soaring 191-unit, 64-story building, which is under construction near Rector Street, is loaded with a stylish extras: white-oak floors, a 60-foot swimming pool, and spaces that can be purchased as offices, so residents can commute to work by elevator. But what may really distinguish the condo in a part of town that’s suddenly thick with luxury towers is how it’s unlike many other buildings in the area. And that’s because 50 West is being built from scratch; its developer, Time Equities, has the freedom of a blank canvas, according to brokers. continued on page 140

50 West was designed by starchitect Helmut Jahn. Sales average $2,500 per square foot.

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“There’S buzz AbouT The Neighborhood righT NoW. iT’S greAT To be PArT of iT.” —richard rothbloom “When you are converting something, you have to work with what the building gives you. You can’t pick and chose your layout, you can’t pick and choose your unit mix,” explains Ariel Cohen, an agent with Douglas Elliman Real Estate (575 Madison Ave., 212-418-2088; thearielcohenteam. elliman.com), who has marketed several nearby condo conversions and who is not affiliated with the project. “I’m excited to see it.” Taking advantage of that ability to customize, Time Equities has put apartments on floors 7 through 64, to let them enjoy views over the roofs of buildings in the

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Kitchens feature custom walnut cabinets and Zimbabwe granite counters.

densely settled area, where streets can have shadows most hours of the day. More important, every apartment has floor-to-ceiling windows, and 85 percent of them are positioned so the living room wraps around a curved-glass corner. As a result, living rooms in the building, which was designed by Chicago starchitect Helmut Jahn, will enjoy a mesmerizing view either of the Statue of Liberty or, in the opposite direction, One World Trade Center, developers say. Styled by Thomas Juul-Hansen, the apartment interiors , which will range from one to five bedrooms, will feature custom walnut kitchen and bathroom cabinets, Zimbabwe granite counters, marble bathroom floors and walls, and oak floors. Prices at the $500 million project, which began sales in June, average around $2,500 a square foot, while half-floor penthouses sell for as much as $5,000 a square foot.” Meanwhile, those 15 office suites will be clustered on the third floor, along with a shared conference room for client meetings. The condo, which sits near some ramps for the Hugh L. Carey Tunnel to Brooklyn, is in a traffic-heavy area, but the city has pledged to erect a pedestrian bridge over West Street that will begin almost outside 50 West’s front door. Residents won’t have to dodge cars to get to Battery Park City and its ample parks. Not only is 50 West a short stroll from open space, it will also be near new high-end retail shops in an area once dotted with delis and after-work bars. Brookfield Place, a shopping center at the revamped World Financial Center, will contain Burberry, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Salvatore Ferragamo stores, while the

World Trade Center retail complex will have Apple. Though the area may be having a moment now, it seemed on the verge of being shunned two years ago after Hurricane Sandy, when it was severely flooded; among other devastation, the tunnel next door filled with water. In some ways, the storm had a silver lining: It allowed Francis J. Greenburger, Time Equities’ founder and chairman, to tweak 50 West’s design to avoid floods, including raising the lobby, relocating mechanicals to the sixth floor, and connecting apartments to a gas-powered generator so lights can stay on during blackouts. It wasn’t just Sandy that caused headwinds for the project; 50 West, which began life as a hotel-condo, was also derailed by the recession after breaking ground in the last decade. In the interim, the Financial District has flourished. The number of apartments in the area has jumped from about 20,000 to 31,000 since 2005, according to the Downtown Alliance, an advocacy group, and another 2,300 apartments are under construction and about 550 are planned. With a museum now open at the World Trade Center site, joining the memorial already there, and with office buildings like Four World Trade Center recently completed, the area is drawing tourists and cultivating a new business district, which is starting to sign up tenants. More critically, residents say, barricades in place since post-9/11 are finally coming down, easing the endless-construction-site vibe. But in 50 West’s case, there may be a price for that popularity: It now has to compete with luxury towers like 30 Park Place, a similar ground-up high-rise from Silverstein Properties, with 157 condos atop a 185room Four Seasons hotel. The nearby Woolworth Building is adding about 40 condos on its upper floors, and like 30 Park Place and 50 West, has openings planned for 2015 and 2016. But in the neighborhood, as in the rest of Manhattan, supply is still crimped, which means there will be plenty of demand to go around, said Richard Rothbloom, a broker with Brown Harris Stevens (43 North Moore St., 212-452-4485; bhsusa. com), a 14-year resident of the Financial District who frequently sells there. “There’s a momentum and excitement, a buzz about the neighborhood right now,” he said. “It’s great to be part of it.” G

rooms with a view Downtown developments soar to new heights. 50 west: 64 foors (50 West St.,

212-766-5050; 50westnyc.com) 30 Park Place: 82 foors (30 Park Place, 212-608-0030; thirtyparkplace.com) the woolworth tower residences:

Top 30 foors of 58 in tower (2 Park Place, 917-414-7253; thewoolworthtower.com)

photography by dbox

Apartments have floor-to-ceiling windows and are positioned to wrap around the building’s corners, which allows sweeping views.

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haute property tall Stories

Trophy Transfers Big deals at the city’s most coveted addresses. It’s hard to remember a time when the real estate market was this hot, and it’s not just the foreign buyers pushing prices to the stratosphere. Yes, an Egyptian billionaire, Nassef Sawiris, paid a co-op record of $70 million for the late Edgar Bronfman’s penthouse at 960 Fifth Avenue. But then American billionaire hedge fund manager Israel “Izzy” Englander matched that price by buying the French government’s duplex co-op at überposh 740 Park Ave. for $70 million—far above its $48 million asking price, thanks to a three-way bidding war. He already owns the apartment above in the building and said that he wanted to have a crash pad for his kids. Also for sale at 740 Park: the late childhood home of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. (Her grandfather, James T. Lee, was the building’s developer.) The sellers of the 12room, 8,000-square-foot duplex are former SAC hedgie David Ganek and his novelist wife, Danielle. The asking price is $44 million. Built in 1929 by Rosario Candela, the 19-story limestone building has only 31 units and what many consider the toughest co-op board in town. This sweeping four-bedroom, six-bathroom home is situated on the building’s sixth and seventh floors. Among its many highlights: a marble entrance gallery, a chef’s kitchen, a master suite with two marble bathrooms, two dressing rooms, two offices, and a separate servants’ wing. Serena Boardman of Sotheby’s International Realty has the listing. 38 E. 61st St., 212-6067611; sothebyshomes.com And where are the Ganeks heading? Downtown to a $28 million

penthouse in the Puck Building. Sales here are handled by Douglas Elliman’s Raphael De Niro (774 Broadway, 212-350-8561; deniroteam. elliman.com), Dennis Mangone (575 Madison Ave., 212-418-2060; elliman. com), and Oren and Tal Alexander (485 Madison Ave., 212-350-8561; the alexanderteam.elliman.com). While sprawling apartments in buildings like 740 Park offer maids’ rooms and staff wings, sometimes buyers decide to give the help a home of their own. It can end up as a good real estate investment. Take the case of ex-Citigroup honcho Sandy Weill. When he sold his trophy triplex at 15 Central Park West to Dmitry Rybolovlev, Russia’s “fertilizer king,” in 2011, for a staggering $88 million, it was the highest price anyone had ever paid for a New York City apartment. Weill recently sold his maid’s apartment at 15 CPW for $5.337 million, according to city property records. That will mean a tidy profit, since Weill bought the four-room apartment for $987,737 in October 2007. While $5 million buys a maid’s quarters at 15 CPW, $4 million can buy you a ’90s rock star’s bachelor pad. Liam Gallagher, who was half of Oasis with his brother Noel, has just put his apartment at the Essex House, 160 Central Park South, on the market. The two-bedroom, two½-bathroom, 1,575-square-foot condo is on the 17th-floor, was recently renovated, and comes with coffered ceilings, wide-plank herringbone floors, central air conditioning, and a chef’s kitchen with a 40-bottle wine cooler. The listing brokers are Douglas Elliman’s Oren and Tal Alexander. G

from top:

In the hot New York real estate market, France’s UN ambassador was able to sell his 18-room corner duplex at überposh 740 Park Avenue for $70 million, far above the $48 million asking price; 160 Central Park South, where ’90s rocker Liam Gallagher, of Oasis, has listed his renovated, two-bedroom bachelor pad (shown); the Puck Building, where hedge-fund exec David Ganek and his novelist wife, Danielle, recently downsized to a $28 million penthouse.

photography by StaN hoNDa/aFp/getty ImageS (740 park aveNue); evaN JoSeph photography (160 CeNtral park South); aDrIaN gaut (puCk buIlDINg)

By Sally GoldStein

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the guide Valentino’s new US flagship store in an iconic postmodernist building has been designed as a soaring Italian palazzo.

Modern ClassiC

photography by rebecca mcalpin

Valentino’s new FiFth Avenue boutique pAys homAge to All things glAmorous. by kari molvar If a boutique can be a shrine to sophistication and glamour, then Valentino’s new flagship store on Fifth Avenue will surely inspire major fashion worship. Housed in a postmodernist building originally constructed by Philip Johnson and John Burgee in the 1980s, the 12,000-square-foot space has been reimagined as a soaring Italian palazzo, complete with a 27-foot-high atrium, marble columns, and an enormous sculptural staircase that strikes a dramatic tone. The design— executed by architect David Chipperfield—reflects the vision of the house’s creative directors, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, who have a thing for mixing the traditional with the modern, as witnessed on the runway recently. Those elegant creations worn by the models can be found here, including the butterfly-strewn gowns, sexy shirtdresses, and graphic coats from the Italian Pop Art–inspired fall collection, which are presented in a series of

intimate suites devoted to women’s ready-to-wear and outfitted with leather, woods, and Venetian terrazzo. The ground level features stunning drop-pendant lighting fixtures that illuminate the gallerylike installation wall, with 39 individual shelves to display the house’s coveted accessories, such as zodiac finger clutches and Camubutterfly ankle pumps. Also not to miss: the perfectly sporty-chic Rockrunner unisex sneaker, an exclusive to the flagship that was designed to celebrate its opening (truly the shoe of choice to wear for marathon shopping). Gentiluomini will want to head to the top level to browse the men’s collection, presented against a backdrop of polished brass, oak, and palladiana. In the end, the atmosphere, like everything from the Roman fashion house, furthers one’s obsession for old-world meets of-the-moment style, or as Chipperfield expresses it, the quest for “absolute and allembracing quality.” 693 Fifth Ave., 212-355-5811; valentino.com G

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the guide acquire

Roland Mouret

Dune London expands to the US with a 2,000square-foot store in Soho.

Must-Stop Shops New fashioN boutiques pop up all arouNd the towN. By Erin rilEy

Aurélie Bidermann The Parisian jewelry designer’s first US store features a playful mix of bright colors against a white background, a palette you will find in Bidermann’s summer collection as well. There is a mix of boho-chic bangles, earrings, cuffs, necklaces, and rings with turquoise, coral, and yellow accents. “I have dreamed about opening my first stateside store for so long and am especially excited it is in New York, my second home,” says Bidermann. 265 Lafayette St., 212-3350058; aureliebidermann.com

C. Wonder Sleek A-line dresses, quilted outerwear, and suede boots are among the many musthaves that C. Wonder will offer at its new 3,335-square-foot Flatiron store—a space that melds the brand’s whimsical

aesthetic with the building’s Beaux Arts style. “I couldn’t be more excited to open our third New York City store in the Flatiron District, which happens to be one of the best shopping areas in the city,” says founder Chris Burch. 155 Fifth ave.; cwonder.com

Dune London A long-established bastion of luxury footwear and leather goods, UK brand Dune London expands to the US with a 2,000-square-foot outpost in Soho. The new flagship will have a buzzy concept design that includes a ceiling catwalk for displaying shoes and accessories. After a long search for the perfect locale, executive chairman Daniel Rubin says they are thrilled to be in Soho: “The space ticks all the boxes in terms of position and size.” 518 Broadway; dunelondon.com

Fendi “This pop-up concept will offer the opportunity to reach a younger clientele,” says Pietro Beccari, chairman and CEO of Fendi, about the company’s Greene Street installation. The six-monthlong Soho pop-up runs through December 31. Expect a playful spin on luxury: exclusive products displayed in vending machines alongside a highly curated selection of furniture. Themed collections will rotate month to month —as of press time, September will feature Fendi furs and October will focus on men’s accessories. 122 Greene St., 212-2193595; fendi.com

3.1 Phillip Lim As the first showcase of the brand’s retail collaboration with Campaign, 3.1 Phillip Lim’s flagship boutique,

“America was the first international market to support me, so it’s important that it also be the site of my first store outside the UK,” says the French-born designer, whose iconic body-con ready-towear, accessories, and White Collection will be available at the new Madison Avenue boutique, together with classic pieces from the label’s archives. One great classic: Mouret’s Galaxy dress— Victoria Beckham’s favorite look—from the 2015 Signature Collection. 952 Madison ave.; rolandmouret.com

Trademark Pookie and Louisa Burch, the daughters of Chris Burch (and former stepdaughters of Tory Burch) have lived up to the hype that preceded the launch of their high-fashion sportswear brand Trademark in 2013. Since that time, their beautifully constructed garments have developed a cultlike following via the company’s website. “Understanding the digital strategy first ended up being an unexpectedly great way to learn the value of the brand,” explains Louisa Burch, who says she is thrilled about the recent opening of the label’s brick-and-mortar counterpart in Soho. 95 Grand St., 212-2068206; trade-mark.com G

Pied-àParis

Sonia RykieL opens a new boutique in Bloomingdale’s.

The opening of a Rykiel shop-in-shop at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street signals a renewed partnership with the New York department store that began 34 years ago. The jewel box space, decorated with black quartz, matte oak wood, and black lacquer fxtures, mirrors the brand’s Saint Germain fagship store and features Rykiel’s signature long, body-hugging sweaters and cropped pullovers alongside a leather goods selection. “This new shop gives our customers a piece of Paris in the heart of Manhattan,” says Frank Doroff, Bloomingdale’s vice president. 1000 Third Ave., 212-705-2000; soniarykiel.com

photography by thomas KletecKa/bring into being (sonia ryKiel)

opening this month, will house the label’s entire women’s, men’s, and accessories collections. September will also see the publication of a collaborative book with renowned photographer Bill Jacobson, which will be sold exclusively at the new store. 48 Great Jones St., 212-3341160; 31philliplim.com

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Mayor Bill de Blasio and Hillary Clinton

Melanie Wambold and Katie Lee

Nick Murtha, Gregory D’Elia, and John Wambold

John Wambold Jr., Cody Baird, and George Wambold

WILDLIFE CONSERVATION SOCIETY ON A WARM SUMMER night, the Wildlife

Conservation Society provided a lush escape from the heat, hosting philanthropic Manhattanites for the annual summer gala at the Central Park Zoo, which honored Hillary Rodham Clinton, Chelsea Clinton, and Diane Christensen. This year’s theme, An Elephant’s Tale, references the documentary of the same name, which shines light on the elephant populations struggling to survive in Central Africa. Guests enjoyed an entertainment-filled reception near the sea lion pool, before dinner and dancing to tunes by DJ Chelsea Leyland.

Carlyle Stewart and David Koch

Julie Kunen

Stephanie and Bill Joseph

Hannah Gershenson and Anton Dobrosevic Lisa Roumell

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Dancers performed a traditional dance

Dalia Capolongo

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM

DJ Chelsea Leyland

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DJ Kiss

Eugene Gokhvat and Melissa Seligmann Gokhvat Bill Ford and Marigay McKee with Liz and Jeff Peek

CENTRAL PARK CONSERVANCY MORE THAN 850 prominent New Yorkers turned out for the

Central Park Conservancy’s annual Taste of Summer benefit. Held at the landmark Bethesda Terrace overlooking The Lake, the evening featured tastings from the city’s top restaurants, such as Betony and Tavern on the Green, while Marcus Samuelsson hosted The Taste Café featuring dishes from all of his restaurants.

Andrea Fahnestock

Marcus Samuelsson and Jay Mandelbaum

Ted and Nina Wells with Alfred Liggins and S. Epatha Merkerson

Cheryl James and Michael Ealy

Cidra Sebastien

Elizabeth and Craig Phillips

THE BROTHERHOOD/ SISTER SOL THE BROTHERHOOD/SISTER SOL celebrated the 10th anniversary of its annual Voices benefit at the Edison Ballroom. Hosted by T.J. Holmes, the event honored Academy Award–nominated filmmaker Lee Daniels; Cathy Hughes, founder and chairperson of Radio One, Inc.; and Golden Globe–nominated actor Michael Ealy for their long-standing contributions. A silent auction, spoken-word performances, and tunes by DJ Beverly Bond were among the evening’s highlights. Khary Lazarre-White and Valentino Carlotti

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T.J. Holmes

DJ Beverly Bond and Valeisha Butterfield Jones

PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILL RAGOZZINO/BFANYC.COM (CENTRAL), JOHNNY NUNEZ (BROTHERHOOD)

Alexandra Lebenthal and Jay Diamond

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INVITED // spotlight //

OVERHEARD PETER MAX, WAYNE PACELLE, AND JEAN SHAFIROFF SPEAK ABOUT THEIR COLLABORATION WITH THE HUMANE SOCIETY.

Denise Seegal and Howard Kritman

Wayne Pacelle and Coppy Holzman

Jeff Hess and Peter Max

PETER MAX COVER PARTY

FRIENDS AND SUPPORTERS of Niche Media and Gotham magazine joined artist Peter Max and president of The Humane Society of the United States Wayne Pacelle to preview the 10 original works of art created exclusively by Max that ran as covers of Niche Media titles this summer. The original artwork was auctioned off on Charitybuzz with proceeds benefiting HSUS.

Liz Dehringer and Jeff Wallner

“

To see all my friends from Niche Media here is so great, and to have my good friend Wayne Pacelle in attendance makes it very special. I would do anything for him and The Humane Society. My wife, Mary, is on the board. We both love animals. –PETER MAX

“

Rochelle Weitzner

Jewel Morris

Kristi Blake, Peter Max, and Sara Murov Crystal Moreland and Karen Duarte

”

Every successful social movement benefits from artists and writers who used their talents and celebrity to draw attention to urgent issues. Peter Max has done that for the cause of animal protection time and again. –WAYNE PACELLE,

”

PHOTOGRAPHY BY EUGENE GOLOGURSKY/GETTY IMAGES

CEO AND PRESIDENT OF THE HUMANE SOCIETY OF THE UNITED STATES

Marilynn Levine and Elke Breyer

Dawne Marie Grannum

Mike Polacco and Anait Bian

Michelle Fox and Ashley Greenway

“

I first met Peter Max in his wonderful studio and have long admired how he combines his talent with a social consciousness. His iconic Niche Media magazine covers are true collectors' items. –JEAN SHAFIROFF

”

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AND FINALLY... September 2014

The Once Over

Forget the subtle status check in a town where the world’s Über-successFul come to play. By Betsy F. Perry people talk behind her back but doesn’t want to know what they say, admitting, “I wear my heart on my sleeve and while I’ll forgive, I won’t forget.” Now CEO of SWW Creative, Wolkoff wishes people were more positive, claiming, “ I give more compliments than I get.” Author Michael Gross—whose recent book, House of Outrageous Fortune: Fifteen Central Park West, the World’s Most Powerful Address, has billionaire tenants pretending to be annoyed at their inclusion—recalls covering a Paris fashion show as a young New York Times reporter and, finding nothing positive to say, devastated the designer by admitting, “It was interesting.” Afterward, fashion editor Carrie Donovan told him, “There’s always something to like—just pick one thing so you’re telling the truth, but it’s a non-responsive truth.” Lesson learned! Incisively clever writer and television reporter William Norwich, who understands our city’s social structure like no one else, feels, “Because New York is over-priced and over-crowded, it’s all about scarcity and reinforces the idea there isn’t enough of the good life to go around. So what should be heard as good news from a ‘friend’ presses the fear button.” Formerly a contributing editor to Vogue, Norwich is often asked about his upcoming projects, but inevitably the questioner is more interested in talking and will quickly blurt out something like, “Oh, my nephew just sold a book or a screenplay for 400 million dollars.…” Rather than feeling it’s impolite, Norwich says, “It just means if I’m working on something, there’s

one less book or film for someone else.” Hypersensitive to lukewarm voices and praise doled out like molasses, I choose to be positively exuberant when an acquaintance reappears in the fall having lost pounds or years (Park Avenue plastic surgeon Dr. Konstantin Vasyukevich says 40 percent of his ladies tweak when kids are at camp, emerging “fresh” before Fashion Week unleashes the paparazzi). So even though I spent the summer sweating through Penn Station, laid awake swatting renegade mosquitos with my Mason Pearson brush, and have had corn stuck in my teeth since July 4, I’m really thrilled your summer at the Bathing Corporation was idyllic, your kid’s off to Harvard, and you’re now a perfect size 4. Oh, and how nice that you no longer fly commercial. I really am happy for you. Don’t I sound it? G

il,lustration by daniel o’leary

Navigate Michael’s at lunchtime and there’s no escaping the once-over, head-to-toe appraisal we give without registering approval or disdain— such is that expressionless look of evaluation among New Yorkers when sizing up the competition. Unfortunately, in this city where a little rivalry can get the juices flowing, like it or not, there’s always going to be someone younger, prettier, smarter, and definitely richer—and with the latest endangered species, Birkin, or child who got into Episcopal nursery school or hedge-fund husband who paid cash for a duplex at 15 CPW. So while many of us thrive in this atmosphere, if you can’t, best to relocate to Des Moines or Wichita where life is probably less fierce and people more generous. There’s no denying that in this squooshed city of questionable values, where your latest book or merger is your ID and gets you a visible table at The Waverly Inn or your picture in the Sunday Styles section, it can also create distress for those with quaky self esteem. According to a renowned New York shrink with a roster of patients in the affluenza stratosphere, hotbed cities like New York breed “hostile envy,” aka an inability to be pleased with someone’s success or good fortune. For the plucky ones, it’s all about making this city work for them by figuring out how to dodge the emotional land mines. Glamorous Stephanie Winston Wolkoff, formerly director of special events at Vogue and the wizard behind Lincoln Center’s Fashion Week, is certain

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