B IA S CU T / LO C A LLY-S E W N FA S H I O N
© 2016 Chin I Lee All rights reserved. No part of this publication can be reproduced without express permission from Chin I Lee A graduate graphic design thesis Written and designed by Chin I Lee Association Academy of Art University 79 New Montgomery Street, San Francisco, CA Department Chair / M ary Scott Graduate Director / Phil Hamlett 800.544.2787 Contact Chin I Lee 415.640.5685 chininicklee@gmail.com chinilee.com Typeface FF Kievit Photo Credits Getty Images, Shutterstock Text Stock 100# Mohawk Superfine Uncoated (148 GSM) Printer & Bindery Blurb Software Adobe Creative Cloud Find out more about Biascut at Biascut.org View more work by Chin I Lee at chinilee.com Printed and bound in the USA
PAG E N O.
04
M FA T H E S I S PROJ E C T / C H I N I LE E
chapter 00 / page 09
Foreword chapter 01 / the issue / page 12
Background chapter 02 / the early stage / page 022
Research
chapter 03 / the middle stage / page 034
Process
chapter 04 / the final execution / page 048
Design Solutions
PAG E N O.
05
B IA S CU T / LO C A LLY-S E W N FA S H I O N
Buy less, choose well, make it last.
— Vivienne Westwood / Fashion Designer
PAG E N O.
08
M FA T H E S I S PROJ E C T / C H I N I LE E
Foreword My university life, I was very interesting about fashion. I always like to see people wear appropriate and good quality material because I often see people purchase cheaper clothing from fast fashion companies. It’s literally going to fall apart after few months and the production of this clothing had made huge pollution in the past few years. However, I would like to provide people an alternative way to shop locally made clothing which are quality over quantity and community friendly. During my research, I expect sustainable fashion will be the solution to determine the problems. The sustainable is related to our environment, social impact and even carbon footprint. If people can get into and learn more informations, people can make a better decision and improve long-lived and healthy community for the future. I have been studying graphic design for four years. I recognize graphic design can be powerful and influenceable in the different formats and languages. I would like to use my design abilities, skills and knowledge to build a comprehend system for my target audiences to choose a better garment.
PAG E N O.
09
B IA S CU T / LO C A LLY-S E W N FA S H I O N
PAG E N O.
10
M FA T H E S I S PROJ E C T / C H I N I LE E
What's the Biascut Biascut is a new fashion retailing concept for locally-sewn clothing. In the fashion industry, the ordinary meaning of the term “bias” is direction of the fabric weave. Another meaning of the word “bias” is to present a different perspective in favor of or against something. At Biascut we are biased in favor of locally-sewn clothing and against the recent trend for “fast fashion.” Fast fashion giants like H&M, Zara, and Forever 21 have produced huge amounts of low-priced clothing for people on a budget. Since prices are so low, people purchase more items, sacrificing quality for quantity. Many people do not understand the results of buying lots of cheap clothing, which contributes to destroying our environment such as air pollution, energy waste, and textile waste. There are different kinds of locally-sewn clothing stores in San Francisco, which are Scattered in different areas. Biascut will collect them into our brand, people can have more options to choose locally-sewn clothing in one place.
PAG E N O.
11
the issue / page 012
Background xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
1
ch
B IA S CU T / LO C A LLY-S E W N FA S H I O N
PAG E N O.
14
M FA T H E S I S PROJ E C T / C H I N I LE E
PAG E N O.
15
B IA S CU T / LO C A LLY-S E W N FA S H I O N
PAG E N O.
16
M FA T H E S I S PROJ E C T / C H I N I LE E
The Problems  Fast fashion giants like H&M, Zara, and Forever 21 have produced huge amounts of low-priced clothing for people on a budget. Since prices are so low, people purchase more items, sacrificing quality for quantity. Many people do not understand the results of buying lots of cheap clothing, which contributes to destroying our environment. Air pollution: The production of fast fashion clothing creates huge amounts of carbon emissions. Energy waste: The transporting of fast fashion, using trucks, ship, and planes, contributes to the pollution problem by using lots of energy and emitting carbon pollution. Textile waste: According to the Council for Textile Recycling, the U.S generates an average of 14.3 billion tons of textiles in 2012, and 85 percent goes to our landfill.
PAG E N O.
17
B IA S CU T / LO C A LLY-S E W N FA S H I O N
PAG E N O.
18
M FA T H E S I S PROJ E C T / C H I N I LE E
PAG E N O.
19
B IA S CU T / LO C A LLY-S E W N FA S H I O N
PAG E N O.
20
M FA T H E S I S PROJ E C T / C H I N I LE E
PAG E N O.
21
the early stage / page 022
Research xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
2
ch
B IA S CU T / LO C A LLY-S E W N FA S H I O N
PAG E N O.
24
M FA T H E S I S PROJ E C T / C H I N I LE E
PAG E N O.
25
B IA S CU T / LO C A LLY-S E W N FA S H I O N
The difference between style and fashion is quality. — Giorgio Armani / Fashion Designer
PAG E N O.
26
M FA T H E S I S PROJ E C T / C H I N I LE E
The Insights  1. There are many eco-friendly clothing stores in San Francisco, and they have been producing good-quality, eco friendly, and less-toxic clothing for a while. Plus, they pay attention to the environmental impact, and help people connect with each other and the community. 2. These shops are scattered in different areas. Biascut will collect many different eco-friendly clothing brands into our boutique store, people can have more options to choose locally sewn clothing in one place.
PAG E N O.
27
B IA S CU T / LO C A LLY-S E W N FA S H I O N
Target Audience 1. People who live in San Francisco. 2. Females aged around 25–35 who have enough income to purchase better-quality garments and are environmentally conscious shopper. 3. Local designers who are make eco-friendly clothing and need to promote their eco-friendly clothing on the market.
PAG E N O.
28
M FA T H E S I S PROJ E C T / C H I N I LE E
PAG E N O.
29
B IA S CU T / LO C A LLY-S E W N FA S H I O N
PAG E N O.
32
M FA T H E S I S PROJ E C T / C H I N I LE E
PAG E N O.
33
the middle stage / page 034
Process
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
3
ch
B IA S CU T / LO C A LLY-S E W N FA S H I O N
MoodBoard
PAG E N O.
38
M FA T H E S I S PROJ E C T / C H I N I LE E
PAG E N O.
39
B IA S CU T / LO C A LLY-S E W N FA S H I O N
MoodBoard
PAG E N O.
40
M FA T H E S I S PROJ E C T / C H I N I LE E
PAG E N O.
41
B IA S CU T / LO C A LLY-S E W N FA S H I O N
c
c
bias|cut
PAG E N O.
42
M FA T H E S I S PROJ E C T / C H I N I LE E
The Anatomy  Biascut is a technique used by designers for cutting clothing to utilize the greater stretch in the bias or diagonal direction of the fabric. The foundation of the signature mark is using 74 degree line to deliver the concept. The logotype is based on Hoefler Text and FF Kievit which convey organic, casual, and clean for this brand.
PAG E N O.
43
B IA S CU T / LO C A LLY-S E W N FA S H I O N
Typographic Standards As Biascut brand has evolved, there are several reasons why I've chosen FF Kievit, ITC Conduit for our typeface. The reason it was chosen is because of the humanistic characteristics for this contemporary design. It is ideally suited for advertising and packaging, book text, logo, branding, small text, and signage. They all serve different purposes. FF Kievit is used for titles, subtitles, body text and captions. ITC Conduit is used for big numbers. It helps us communicates in an eco-friendly voice.
Aa FF Kievit_ Title, Subtitle, Body Text, Captions & Quotes ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUV W X YZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz 1234567890
Aa ITC Conduit_ Big Number ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRS TU V W X Y Z abcdefghijklmnopqrstuv w xyz 1234567890
PAG E N O.
44
M FA T H E S I S PROJ E C T / C H I N I LE E
Color Palette Consistent color usage ensures maximum brand recognition. The corporate colors of Biascut are raw deep brown, raw light brown and organic green they are the foundation of the brand and should always be used properly to reinforce brand equity.
CMYK 50/40/60/45 RGB 89/90/75 HEX #585A4A PANTONE 449U
CMYK 3/2/9/3 RGB 235/234/223 HEX #EBEADE PANTONE 9101C
CMYK 77/12/98/5 RGB 99/154/98 HEX #649A4E PANTONE 376U
PAG E N O.
45
B IA S CU T / LO C A LLY-S E W N FA S H I O N
Locally-Sewn Retailers DSF Clothing
Amour Vert 437 Hayes Street, San Francisco, CA 94102
520 Haight Street, San Francisco, CA 94117
855.326.6233
415.252.8601
amourvert.com
shopdsf.com
Benny Gold
Eileen West
3169 16th Street, San Francisco, CA 94103
2222 Palou Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94124
415-814.3940
415.957.9378
bennygold.com
eileenwest.com
Betabrand
Faze
780 Valencia Street, San Francisco, CA 94110
3236 21st Street, San Francisco, CA 94110
415.692.7433
415.695.2915
betabrand.com
fazeapparel.com
Beneduci Shoemakers
FTC
797 San Jose Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94110
1632 Haight Street, San Francisco, CA 94117
415.577.2786
415.626.0663
beneduci.com
ftcsf.com
Blue Canoe
Golden Bear Sportswear
1900 Oakdale Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94124
200 Potrero Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94103
415.648.5000
415.863.6171
bluecanoe.com
goldenbearsportswear.com
Curator
Gravel & Gold
1767 Church Street, San Francisco, CA 94131
3266 21st Street, San Francisco, CA 94110
415.970.9828
415.552.0112
curatorsf.com
gravelandgold.com
Cut Loose
Harputs Own
1218 Valencia Street, San Francisco, CA 94110
109 Geary Street, 2nd Floor, San Francisco, CA 94108
415.282.0695
415.392.2222
cutloose.com
harputs.com
Diana Slavin
Headline Shirts
3 Claude Lane, San Francisco, CA 94108
335 A 8th Street, San Francisco, CA 94103
415.677.9939
415.692.6770
dianaslavin.com
headlineshirts.net
PAG E N O.
46
M FA T H E S I S PROJ E C T / C H I N I LE E
Iron & Resin
Nooworks
7 Columbus Avenue, San Francisco CA 94111
395 Valencia Street, San Francisco, CA 94103
415.624.3288
415.829.7623
ironandresin.com
nooworks.com
Jake Clothing
NSEWest Co.
1687 Market Street, 2nd Floor , San Francisco, CA 94103
691 O'Farrell Street Apt. 402, San Francisco, CA 94109
415.527.7611
519.652.7490
jake.clothing
nsewestco.com
Kajan Cake
NV Blue
50 O'Farrell Street, 7th Floor, San Francisco, CA 94102
246 4th Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94118
415.251.7270
917.592.1147
kajancake.com
nvbluesf.com
Kindly Souls
Ocelot
1125 Alabama Street, San Francisco, CA 94110
1027 Treat Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94110
415.825.0662
415.821.7288
kindlysouls.com
ocelotclothing.com
Les Mechantes
Piece x Piece
900 North Point Street , San Francisco, CA 94109
2325 3rd Street, San Francisco, CA 94107
415.275.0407
415.685.5789
lesmechantes.com
pxp-sf.com
Lily Samii
San Franpsycho
210 Post Street, Suite 803 , San Francisco, CA 94108
505 Divisadero Street, San Francisco, CA 94117
415.445.9505
415.829.7874
lilysamii.com
sanfranpsycho.com
Maker & Mineral
Taylor Stitch
1226 Haight Street, San Francisco, CA 94117
383 Valencia Street, San Francisco, CA 94103
415.794.7711
415.621.2231
makerandmineral.com
taylorstitch.com
Marine Layer
Weston
2209 Chestnut Street, San Francisco, CA 94123
569 Valencia Street, San Francisco, CA 94110
415.346.2400
415.621.1480
marinelayer.com
westonsf.com
PAG E N O.
47
the final execution / page 048
Design Solution xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
4
ch
BIASCUT / LOC ALLY-SEWN FASHION
PAGE NO.
54
MFA THESIS PROJEC T / CHIN I LEE
Mobile App  When consumers want to shop at a local, eco-friendly clothing brand, they can use their smartphone to browse immediately. The app has special functions to guide people to find local clothing. The unique selling point for this app, which lists local designers, is it shows people what kind of style they will have when they choose locally made clothing.
PAGE NO.
55
BIASCUT / LOC ALLY-SEWN FASHION
PAGE NO.
56
MFA THESIS PROJEC T / CHIN I LEE
PAGE NO.
57
BIASCUT / LOC ALLY-SEWN FASHION
Biascut Boutique Store Collecting many different eco-friendly clothing brands into our store, people can have more options to choose locally sewn clothing in one place.
PAGE NO.
58
MFA THESIS PROJEC T / CHIN I LEE
PAGE NO.
59
BIASCUT / LOC ALLY-SEWN FASHION
PAGE NO.
60
MFA THESIS PROJEC T / CHIN I LEE
PAGE NO.
61
BIASCUT / LOC ALLY-SEWN FASHION
PAGE NO.
62
MFA THESIS PROJEC T / CHIN I LEE
PAGE NO.
63
BIASCUT / LOC ALLY-SEWN FASHION
PAGE NO.
64
MFA THESIS PROJEC T / CHIN I LEE
PAGE NO.
65
BIASCUT / LOC ALLY-SEWN FASHION
Packaging Creating a reusable packaging. After the customers receive the clothing in the box. They can use it for storage container or they can return to Biascut boutique store for recycle or second use.
PAGE NO.
66
MFA THESIS PROJEC T / CHIN I LEE
PAGE NO.
67
BIASCUT / LOC ALLY-SEWN FASHION
PAGE NO.
68
MFA THESIS PROJEC T / CHIN I LEE
Reward Card To encourage people to shop locally made fashion, a rewards card will allow customers to earn points toward a small gift from Biascut boutique store.
PAGE NO.
69
BIASCUT / LOC ALLY-SEWN FASHION
 Gift / Sewing Kits To encourage people to shop locally made fashion, a rewards card will allow customers to earn points toward a small gift from Biascut which is sewing kits. People can use it to fix their clothing. After people earn the 10 points reward stamps. Biascut will provide our audience a small gift which is Sewing kits. People can use it to fix their clothing.
PAGE NO.
70
MFA THESIS PROJEC T / CHIN I LEE
PAGE NO.
71
BIASCUT / LOC ALLY-SEWN FASHION
PAGE NO.
72
MFA THESIS PROJEC T / CHIN I LEE
Delivery Service To create a new eco-friendly delivery and sustainability service. No pollution will be created, no environmental toxins expelled, and just a friendly courier. We provide a new delivery system for using bicycle delivery, electric cars, and selfpickup to reduce air-pollution and energy waste.
PAGE NO.
73
BIASCUT / LOC ALLY-SEWN FASHION
PAGE NO.
74
MFA THESIS PROJEC T / CHIN I LEE
PAGE NO.
75
BIASCUT / LOC ALLY-SEWN FASHION
PAGE NO.
76
MFA THESIS PROJEC T / CHIN I LEE
PAGE NO.
77
Acknowledgments Thank you mom and dad for your unconditional support and for always believing in me and listening my problems. Without you two, I would not have come this far. Everything that I have achieved in my life is because of you. Thank you Mary Scott, Phil Hamlett, Ariel Grey, Carolina de Bartolo, Hunter Wimmer, Anthony Jagoda, Brian Toth and all of my other Academy of Art University instructors for your mentorship, professional guidance and sharing your invaluable knowledge with me. Thank you to my fellow Academy classmates for staying creative and inspiring. I have learned a lot from you guys. Thank you, Hsuan Jung Hung, and all of the amazing people in my life. Even if I did not mention your names, you know who you are.