Bottom of the Barrel by Bottom of the Barrel

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bottom of the barrel ‘draining the dregs’ issue 01

Yorkshire’s premier beer magazine

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british pubs last orders? otley beer festival a diary pubfect what makes the perfect pub?

masham

The Yorkshire village that makes and exports some of the worlds finest real ales; from the rolling hills of the dales to almost every corner of the world.

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notes from the editors

Welcome to Bottom of the Barrel. Our quest to uncover the cream of Yorkshire Ales this week begins in Masham, where we delve into the global appeal of Theakston’s brewery, the original brewers of the Yorkshire Dales village. We then make the short trip to Black Sheep to explore the future of brewing using traditional Yorkshire techniques. Elsewhere in the magazine we follow four young gentlemen to Otley’s tenth annual beer festival, discovering the beers on offer, as well as a curious case of the Southern cider drinker. Our very own Sherlock Holmes searches for the reasons behind impending closures for some of Britain’s best loved pubs, concluding what the outlook for the country’s pub culture may be. There’s also an analysis of what makes the perfect pub. As always, we would love to hear your views on anything related to the magazine, or even if you’ve just found that perfect Yorkshire brew! Send in your comments or questions to bottomofthebarrel@live. co.uk

contents 3-5 Theakston’s brewery; a global attraction by Daniel Todd 6-7 The black sheep brewery by Will Buckton 8-9 Last orders? by Daniel Nicklin 10-11 The Otley beer festival by bb 12 Pubfect by Joe Large

See you at the bar!

with thanks to: Alan Dunn Joanne Simms the black sheep brewery theakston’s brewery the Otley beer festival Otley rugby club NHS Leeds

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theakston’s brewery; a global attraction On passing, the village of Masham seems just like that of every other: a quiet, peaceful scene set against a picturesque Yorkshire backdrop. But you would be forgiven for overlooking it’s main attraction. For there, at it’s heart, lies a slice of national heritage.

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“Today, Theakston’s is enjoyed the country over and is sent to many British towns from it’s birthplace in North Yorkshire.”

The pumps inside Theakston’s ‘Black Bull’ pub

In 1827, Robert Theakston had an ambition: he wanted to brew his own beer. A beer in which he could be both proud and appreciative. And with that, he, and his brother-in-law John Wood, set about creating the T&R Theakston brewing company. The Black Bull Inn was home to the brewers for the first five years of the business before Robert Theakston took sole ownership of the company. Just three years later, he passed it on to his son Thomas, who built a new brewery in the village. After several changes of ownership over two centuries, the brewery eventually returned to the Theakston family in 2004, when four Theakston brothers - Nick, Simon, Tim and Edward – purchased the brewery off brewinggiants Scottish and Newcastle. In 2009, the brewing of Theakston Bitter returned to Masham at the rejuvenated Masham Brewery. Today, Theakston’s is enjoyed the

country over and is sent to many British towns from it’s birthplace in North Yorkshire. Joanne, tour guide and worker at the brewery explains: “We send the beer the length and breadth of Britain. You can find our beers in many pubs and shops for people who enjoy their ales and for others that want to try something different from your more commercial beers and lagers.” As a relatively small brewery, the cost of supplying can prove a heavy constraint on the business’ expansion: “At the moment we aren’t exporting. But that is our next project - that is what we are working on at the moment. It will be bottled versions of our ales. Currently, the ones that we are bottling are XB and Old Peculier. The other beers come available as cask ale in pubs. It is a venture that has been attempted before, however, funding and means of exporting have not always been easy obstacles to overcome: “It was available

in Australia for a while when we were exporting some beers. We quite often get Australians visiting the brewery. Usually because they’ve tried the beer and now they want to come and see where it is being brewed and try the various ales we produce. “The visitors that we had just yesterday were from New Zealand. They said that they’d got used to colder drinks when it is warm and that it is nice to enjoy ale as a break from the routine. “So there is a lot of interest in our ales from countries abroad. I must get about ten emails a day, asking for Old Peculier because it was available in countries – such as the States - and now, unfortunately, it is not. Of course, all the people that could get it, now suddenly find that they can’t. So they’re emailing us saying: ‘Where’s the beer?’. The brewery does not just attract our intrigued cousins from across the pond, though. Many Europe-

ans visit Masham in order to sample some of our countries finest, most historic ales. “The European countries tend to have their own beers. We get a lot of Germans here and they like their beer and they are very good at making their own. It’s the same with the Belgians. They come here with an interest but not particularly an enthusiasm. Whereas, perhaps, the Americans and Australians aren’t as in to brewing beer. Warmer countries tend to stick to lager due to it’s cooler temperature. “So there is a lot of interest. It’s quite amazing, actually, the places people come from and they’ve heard of Theakston’s. Especially Old Peculier because it has got such an unusual name – it sticks and they remember it. “But our message to those that can’t acquire our beers is that it will get there again, eventually. But they may need to just hold on a while longer” Good who

things wait,

come to those as they say.bb

A used Theakston barrel

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“There is a lot of interest. It’s quite amazing, actually, the places people come from and they’ve heard of Theakston’s. Especially Old Peculier because it has got such an unusual name – it sticks and they remember it.”

Theakston Old Peculier World-famous. A deep, dark coloured ale that has a distinctive warm smell. This ale is fullbodied and weighs in at 5.6%. Theakston XB With it’s balanced hops and subtle fruit undertones, this red-tinted ale was introduced to the Theakston range in the early 1980’s. 4.5%. Theakston Best Bitter A 3.8%, golden-coloured ale that is malty and fruity in equal measure. It’s citrus-like after taste makes it refreshing as well as flavoursome. Theakston Black Bull Originally created to commemorate the original Theakston pub and brewhouse. A golden amber-coloured ale that is both dry and crisp in it’s finish. 3.9%. Theakston Traditional Mild A smooth and dark ale that is lower in percentage (3.5%). Brewed with pale, crystal and black malt for it’s unique taste.

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thebrewery black sheep

Some of Black Sheep’s bottled beers

Theakston may be the mother of beer in Masham but the Black Sheep of the family is not far away. The two breweries sit side by side in the same beautiful village and both have their own stories to tell. As I approached the Black Sheep bar, with the brewery chimney towering overhead, the sweet smell of hops made me instantly thirsty! I looked around and saw a beer mat collection, any tegestologist would be proud of. Clever phrases such as Chris ‘Ewe’ bank and Rubens ‘Baa’ richello, illustrated by Sheep versions of the sporting heroes, show that the company has a sense of humour. At the start of the brewery tour I was treated to a taste of the

sweet malt, which is used to make the beer. The roasted malt for the darker beer, was once used as a substitute for coffee, when rations were used in the war. Everyone has felt sleepy after a couple of pints, but have you ever wondered why you feel sleepy? It is the hops that make you tired, and this is why they were used to fill pillows. Black Sheep collect their hops from the fields of Hereford, but the main ingredient is Yorkshire water, collected from their own well in Masham. I’d never

given the ingredients a second thought when drinking beer before, but it is only after tasting them separately, that you can truly appreciate your pint at the local. The main thing I had come to the Black Sheep for, was to see the actual brewing process, and I wasn‘t disappointed. The famous slate Yorkshire Squares were there in all their glory, which weigh six tonnes and produce 50 barrels each in a single brew. The Yorkshire Square brewing system was developed over 200 years ago, but sadly the Black Sheep is one of the only breweries left which still uses this traditional method. The ‘Squares’ are fermenting vessels, where the beer is left for a few days. The square vessels give the beer it’s distinctive bit-

ter taste. A round shape is now preferred, as it makes cleaning them much quicker and easier. At the end of the tour I was lucky enough to speak to one of the chiefs of the beer industry. Alan Dunn is the Head Brewer, and has been at the Black Sheep for 11 years. When asked what makes Yorkshire beer distinct from other beers he said, “You can see from the presentation alone, that northern beers have a decent creamy head, when pouring the pint, as opposed to southern ones. It comes about by the addition of a certain amount of wheat and gluten to give a nice tight head on your pint.” Back when the brewery was first opened, they didn’t export the beer outside the borders of North Yorkshire. Now the beer is sold all over the country in the large supermarkets, and is becoming popular in Scandinavia and North America. Alan said, “There’s a good appreciation of English beers in North America, particularly on the west coast. We were even sent a recent photograph from Mombasa of a man with a bottle of Black Sheep in his hand. It was the only place that sold beer and we were there!” Even the Pope has tried Black Sheep! To celebrate the 30th anniversary of Monty Python’s The Holy Grail, the Black Sheep Brewery produced a beer called Holy Ale, which was presented to the Pope on his visit to England. Although a quarter of their overall volume is sold to supermarkets in the form of bottled beer, they do not sell to large chains, and do not own any pubs, so all their cask beer is sold into the free market. The Black Sheep Brewery has changed a lot since opening in 1992, and Alan said that this is to keep up with the growing volume demand. “When I started in 1999, we were batch brewing. We brewed on five mornings, and one or two afternoons. Within a few months we were doing five mornings and five

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afternoons, so we could see we were going to run out of capacity. By 2005 we had spent about £6million expanding the capacity of the site. At the same time we went from a manual cask filling operation, to the automated system. That in itself cost £1.5million, and this again increased our output. The next big challenge will be looking to expand again. Some five years ago we bought a piece of land in Masham. As soon as we feel its right to push on, and when the market is right, we’ve got the space to develop. These are exciting times, but I wouldn’t like to put a time frame on it.” There are four different types of cask beer, produced by the Black

“As soon as we feel its right to push on, and when the market is right, we’ve got the space to develop. These are exciting times...”

Sheep Brewery. These are Best Bitter, Black Sheep Ale, Golden Sheep and Riggwelter, which gets its name from an old farmers saying, referring to a sheep lying on its back! When asked whether there will be any new varieties of Black Sheep, Alan said, “Micro breweries are flourishing at the moment, as they have the flexibility to do small batches of one off, or seasonal beers. The Black Sheep Best Bitter is 90% of what we sell in casks, as nationally it is the bees knees! Having said that, never say never, we’re putting together a seasonal programme for next year, so watch this space.

We’re just finishing off what kinds of beer we’re going to do.” Micro breweries have helped change the beer market, and push the age group of real ale drinkers down. Twenty years ago the main demographic of beer drinkers was 35-55 year olds. Now the main age group of beer drinkers is late twenties. With more and more beers available, real ale is bound to appeal to a much wider audience, than it used to. When asked whether micro breweries have had any effect on the Black Sheep Brewery, Alan said, “Micro breweries have helped us, as they have raised the awareness of cask beer, but because of their size they pay less duty, so they can sell cheaper. This means it is difficult for us to compete against them. There are 75 micro breweries in Yorkshire alone, and 600-700 in the UK. They started taking off in the 70’s and 80’s, and some of them are still around now. The 90’s in particular saw a lot of changes. People were coming out of other careers and deciding to make their own beer. A local business, who make the equipment for micro breweries, have all their books full for next year. This means we could see another 30 Yorkshire micro breweries in 2011. We have thought about making our own micro brewery, alongside the existing one, so we can trial new beers on a smaller scale.” The Black Sheep Brewery is a family run business, started by Paul Theakston in 1992 after Theakston brewery was taken over by Scottish and Newcastle. Back then they brewed 100 barrels a week. £7 million has now been invested and the brewery produces 1700 barrels a week, which is equal to 28,800 pints. If you drank two pints a day this amount would take 40 years to drink.

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closure of 2,365 pubs by the end of 2009. This also meant the loss of 24,000 jobs in total for the sector. Grim reading indeed, and with little media coverage, even in light of the economic downturn and unemployment

alcohol abuse is rife. The logical conclusion to make would be that a fall in the number of establishments that serve alcohol would see a similar fall in the instances of alcohol abuse, but of course nothing is that simple, and the statistics would seem to back that up. Research from the Office of National Statistics shows that in fact household drinking was the main contributor to heavy drinking among adults in the UK, with 54% of men and 73% of women claiming they

figures of recent months (7.7% at the time of writing).

drank heavily in theirs or someone else’s home in the last week.

Despite the glorification of pubs as a grand old British tradition the main argument against them, and possibly the reason why my earlier ‘call to arms’ with regards to their protection will fall on deaf ears, is that alcohol, when drunk in large quantities, harms people, which is understandably high on the agenda in a country such as Britain, where along with much of northern Europe,

It would be difficult to look at the state of pubs – and the earlier statistic - without looking at the wider drinking landscape, which inevitably leads us on to supermarkets, and the vilification of the business model that has brought affordability and over-indulgence hand-in- hand. Government and NHS efforts are afoot to curb the irresponsibility that has come with cheap super-

A recent article published in The Lancet journal by former government ‘drug tsar’ Professor David Nutt, claimed that alcohol was a more dangerous drug than heroin or crack. The report not only opened a forum for wide debate on the subject, but served to highlight the fact that the 21st century has marked a watershed for casual alcohol consumption, and more specifically the humble British boozer, for a number of fairly obvious reasons: the smoking ban, which has seen punters opt for the regulation-free comfort of their living rooms to indulge in alcohol consumption, a heightened awareness of the dangers of alcohol abuse not only by the public, but by a government and health service who are both rightly keen to see its ill effects stamped out, and perhaps a perception – with regards to traditional pubs at least – that they represent old-fashioned values. Ultimately, this means that pub closure statistics are high and rising, and to my mind these statistics have been met with relatively little fanfare – imagine if you will similar closures for museums or art galleries, which arguably have a similar cultural significance; its patrons would be crawling out of the woodwork. (I do realise how ridiculous this comparison sounds, however social integration and interaction is surely as important as the thirst for knowledge, if not in sociological terms then in evolutionary ones). The statistics themselves make frightening reading for publicans, revealing that last year pub closures in the first 6 months stood at 52 a week, culminating in the

market drinks, as the new health secretary Andrew Lansley proposes a ban on ‘cut-price’ alcohol, of which the benefits for society and the taxpayer are significant – the NHS notes that among other statistics, the planned legislation could save 3400 lives a year. How exactly this would be put into place and whether or not it would affect pubs is uncertain, however I would urge officials to look closely at the role pubs play in society, and also to make sure to outlaw over-consumption rather than punish citizens for merely enjoying a drink in moderation, and risking straying into authoritarian territory. For the moderate drinker, pubs are now a haven. The smoking ban and the emergence of admittedly polarising gastro-pubs have made modern pubs friendly accessible places to socialise and enjoy a drink. Seasoned drinkers may pine for the days when pubs were smoky, dimly-lit holes where men went to escape their wives and drown their sorrows – and I don’t doubt these places still exist and thrive in their own way – but modern pubs must reflect modern society, and although some might also bemoan the erosion of their ‘liberties’, clinging to old ways will only see

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them slip through their fingers. Gone also, are the days when 14 year-old boys with the goodfortune to have any hint of facial hair could get a pint at a bar, as new legislation and tougher measures now mean that underage drinking in pubs and bars is a rarity. Even so, there is also something to be said for the idea that an under-age drinker is safer drinking illegally in the surroundings of a pub than local playing field, (not that I condone such behaviour of course).

“British pubs symbolise an ageold heritage, the social hub of many communities, and the modern equivalent of the watering-hole.”

This culture of responsible drinking is also one that health officials are keen to promote. A spokesperson for NHS Leeds, which works actively to address the issue of alcohol harm reduction in the city, said, “…the Leeds Alcohol Strategy seeks to encourage and promote a culture of responsible drinking coupled with responsible management of licensed premises.”, a statement which seems to support the establishments that practice their trade responsibly. There is also the thorny issue of the economy. To let such a huge sector of the brewing industry wither and die would be disastrous for those employed in these areas - the sector generates £28 billion per year in economic activity - not to mention the patrons – 13 rural pubs close each week, meaning hundreds of villages no longer have a local pub. Pubs might have had a bad rap in recent years but to confuse social drinking with binge drinking and moderation with overindulgence would be a mistake. British pubs symbolise an ageold heritage, the social hub of many communities, and the modern equivalent of the wateringhole. Lawmakers and consumers alike should realise the positive place that the pub can hold in society, so that hopefully they don’t end up as museum pieces.

The brewing industry has been hit hard by the downturn

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the otley beer festival

Our day of beer diary this month comes fresh from the tenth Otley Beer Festival. We join Danny Nicklin, Joe Large Dan Todd and Will Buckton as they venture across West Yorkshire to sample unique beers from the northern pastures of England, as well as experiencing a sneaky insight into the quirks that come with a good British beer festival. DN: We got an obscure bus to Otley, not knowing what to expect from the town’s ‘beer festival.’ Would it be a German rosy-faced affair with bearded enthusiasts, or a secluded affair with the locals giving us the ‘you’re not from around here’ eyes? Thankfully, it was neither, and after cautiously making our way inside, we collected our half-pint glasses and started to sample the beers.

The main room at the festival

DT: When I got stuck into my first beer, I was delighted they were half-pint glasses! The gloriously named ‘Staggering Genius’ (Great Heck), a thickly textured wheat beer, was a tough nut to crack. The musty, bitter taste created a product not one bit in keeping with the name. Staggering but by no means genius. JL: Wheat beers, an acquired taste if ever there was. It’s clichéd, but never judge a book by

the cover. It was from here we decided to heed the information given in the program for further choices. The hand pulls beckoned for my next selection, Jorvik Blonde (Rudgate). It incorporated some wonderfully refreshing flavours, including peach, to give my taste buds rejuvenation after the first ill-advised beer. I definitely found it a worthy use of my vote for beer of the festival! DT: Just peachy! WB: A good beer festival can throw up a number of surprise treats, and Otley was no different. Oh Be Joyful (Thwaites) is not due for release until early 2011, but we were given a sneak

preview here. The first in a new seasonal ‘signature collection’ for the brewery, the beer was the choice of the day for me. With a dark appearance and a strong malt taste, the beer is made from the Thwaites back catalogue of brewing recipes. At 6.5% this is not a drink for the faint hearted!

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ingly strong. Fortunately it had the flavour at the forefront, giving the feel of drinking a light fruit juice. Both refreshing and intensely enjoyable, it definitely gets full marks from me. And don’t lie boys, you enjoyed it as well! JL: I’m not going to lie Dan, it was a pretty spectacular drink. But, that doesn’t mask the fact that the resident southerner resorted to the ciders at a ‘beer festival.’

DN: The programme did turn out to be very useful indeed, as was proven with my next choice. After a few pretty standard ales, I plumped for Norse Berry Ale (Saltaire), perhaps in DN: Gentlemen, we all know a last ditch effort to get one of we were at a ‘beer festival’, but my five a day (the festival tuck we’ve got to concede to the qualshop only sells food in pie form). Described as, ‘a lager infused with the unique flavour of Norwegian Tyttebaer – or Tittyberries.’ As for Tittyberries, you can make your own jokes – this isn’t Viz, no matter how much you want it to be. The ale itself was fantastic, a light tasting lager with a fruity palate (I’m not saying I know which part of Norway the berries were from, but I know fruit when I taste it!) JL: The Norse Berry Ale was definitely one we could all enjoy, probably best enjoyed on a summers day, but still enjoyable even though we’re well into the long winter nights now! We were soon all giving banter to each other about our choices, with the majority of us punting for an eclectic mix of ales. We did, however, have one soft southerner in our ranks, who was swiftly resorting to the ciders....... DT: I found the drink of the day nestled in the ciders, I can be excused for being a ‘soft southerner’ for that, surely?! The Broadoak Pear Cider was a delightful reason to move onto ciders. The West Country Perry was a lovely pale green in colour, and weighing in at a hefty 7.5% it threatened to be overwhelm-

“The gloriously named Staggering Genius (Great Heck), a thickly textured wheat beer, was a tough nut to crack. The musty, bitter taste created a product not one bit in keeping with the name. Staggering but, by no means genius.”

ity of the drink. Still, it doesn’t compare to my beer of the day. Cherry Stout (Nook), almost a jet-black ale, at 5.2% it could’ve been too heavy, but I was getting all the delicate flavours. After my earlier dispute with the programme, describing Falling Stone (Wold Top) as ‘decidedly more-ish’, only to find out it was decidedly less-ish, this was all water under the bridge, as I could truly taste everything I’d been touted. ‘A well-bodied oat stout with notes of cherry and liquorice palate, as well as roasted

Cider?

flavours’, everything was there, and there in perfect balance. WB: I can’t avoid mentioning the traditional bitter taste of Mary Jane (Ilkley Brewery) and the refreshing citrus notes of Wharfebank Golden Ales (Wharfebank Brewery), both breweries did a fantastic job of flying the flag for beer in my local area of Lower Wharfedale. The latter did a wonderful job of refreshing me after some dark, heavy beers! JL: The half-pint measures had allowed us to try a vast array of beers throughout the day, with the friendly bar staff helping us out with recommendations along the way. We were able to gauge a good amount of the sixty-plus drinks on offer, between us of course, before staggering to the bus stop to begin a surprisingly in depth discussion on the day. The beer festival was a new experience for all of us, and one I can categorically say we’ll be attending again. WB: Ilkley Beer Festival in February? JL: Sounds good to me, we’ll see if Todd can shake the soft southerner tag! DT: I’ll try my best. DN: Definitely up for it, let’s hope it lives up to this one. bb

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After watching Oz Clarke and Hugh Dennis’ exploits on the BBC’s ‘Raise the Bar’, I found myself questioning what it is that makes the perfect pub. And, especially, what makes Yorkshire pubs some of the best in the country. With 717 English Heritage listed public houses in Yorkshire and the Humber, the region boasts an incredible amount of traditional drinking holes. When it comes to a pint in the pub, us British love nothing more than to relax in surroundings that romanticise such a simple occasion. Growing up in a historic pub allowed Josh Willow to see the importance of surroundings, “My family’s pub, whilst being a bit in the sticks, pulled people in due to its quaint, country style building. It used to be a blacksmiths, so the interior of the building is steeped in history. I loved sitting in there as a lad; the customers felt like they were drinking in times gone by (The pub still has its original billiards table), and obviously a nine year olds imagination runs wild when you’re in an environment like that! I still feel like that when I go and visit my parents back there today, but clearly the drink, rather than the youth, is responsible for my imagination now!” Josh believes modern buildings can still lend themselves to housing good drinking establishments, : “I think more modern pubs can be good, however many of them try to be too modern. If they maintain things like the friendly welcome and the good beers then there is no reason the pub can’t be equally as special.” As we all know, the beer is a vital ingredient for any tavern, the difficulty is selecting which ones to distribute. Whilst traditionally ales are the most notorious and interesting drink in a pub, it is essential in

the modern day to provide drinks for all tastes. There is a growing interest in continental lagers, as well as quirky ales from micro-breweries and an overwhelming demand for local ales in local ale houses. Publican Ryan New, who recently took over his first pub, was quick to break ties with major breweries in an effort to give pride of place to local brewers along his bar; a move that has seen acclaim in terms of reviews and people through the door.

“Good beer, good food and good friendly service, at a fair price. That’s my recipe for success!”

He is adamant that it is vital for his community for his inn to represent its local ales, “We started working here before taking it over. The amount of people who came in and asked what local ales we had on, only to be disappointed, was overwhelming. We knew that once the place was ours we were definitely going to make an effort to turn it to a community pub, and the ales were the first step to doing that.” Mr New is also well aware that the way he stores his beer is essential to his customers enjoying their pint,

“How you look after the local cask ales is so important. You could have the best ale in the world leaving the brewery but if it’s not stored right in the cellar, or poured well, it’s wasted.” These features of a good pub are obvious. The more controversial points remain over the presence of entertainment and the style of food served. Many wouldn’t head to the pub if there was nothing to do there; whether it be watching the sport on a big screen in a social environment, or playing pool; they would sooner stay at home and have a drink on the sofa with their friends. By the same token people don’t want to wander into a social environment, only to be distracted from their friends company by the loud music and slot machines dominating some of today’s establishments. Oz and Hugh definitely disagreed on this matter! And what about Food? Everyone agrees it should be there in some form or other, the question is as to the type. Bar snacks go hand in hand with a pint, who wouldn’t say no to a bag of cheese and onion with their favourite beer? Slap up pub grub is sometimes exactly what the doctor ordered on a Friday night after weeks slog at work, and the nicer it tastes with fresh ingredients the better. But then there is the emergence of gastropubs, where food takes prominence over the social side of sitting in the pub with your mates and a pint with a bit of food to accompany. There must be a limit somewhere. The making of a great pub, as Ryan New succinctly puts it, “Good beer, good food and good friendly service, at a fair price. That’s my recipe for success!”

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next issue includes: Ilkley beer festival continental beers; we try so you dontâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to brewing at home

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