CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC
VIETNAM EDITION AUGUST 2014
s t n e m e l E The e l y t S of
NHÀ XUẤT BẢN BẢN LAO ĐỘNG ĐỘNG ĐỘN
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The Elements of Style
contents
wordvietnam.com
AUGUST 2014
058
098
050
052 / Embrace or Erase
THE TALK
Struggling with decaying reminders of the past
010 / Wasted Time
Vietnam cuts the red tape… in some places
011 / The Big Five
Events to look out for this month
BRIEFINGS 014 / Charity of the Month
Loreto Vietnam lifts learners into the future
016 / Saigon Makeover
The changes people want to see
018 / Reconstructing the City
The changes people complain about
INSIDER 050 / The Bamboo Man
056 / The Elements of Style
BUSINESS
This month’s cover story looks at Vietnam’s 092 / A Roaring Trade architecture up close How some have made success into an identity
088 / Vo Trong Nghia: Building a World of Trees
Vietnam’s most famous young architect has plans
ARTS 048 / Tech Savvy Monks
Monks take selfies too
082 / The City in Mind
Sometimes a city isn’t concrete — it’s everchanging
098 / The Saigon Sound
Move aside, Vo Trong Nghia — James Wolf While no one was looking, a music scene is the ‘Bamboo Master’ developed
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102 / All That Jazz
Hanoi has taken jazz to heart
EAT & DRINK 106 / The ’Word Cup’ of Wings
Taking home the gold medal, and some heartburn
108 / Breaking the Fast
Ramadan promotes a different kind of nightlife
112 / Mystery Diner Hanoi
Eating Polish food in the summer heat
113 / Street Snacker Hanoi
On the menu: Nom
contents
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128
190
137 / Hanoi City Guide
FASHION 114 / A Natural Thing
140 / Recalling Hanoi
Designing with nature in mind
TRAVEL 120 / Hiking California
142 / Coffee Cup
340km into the California of postcards
124 / Banh Mi in DC
Eden Center gets a new life Stateside
128 / The Mountain Valley
Blissfully void of international tourists
132 / Destination Zero
In the highlands of Dalat
136 / Travel Promos HANOI 040 / Overscene 042 / Calendar
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145 / Hanoi Promos HCMC 030 / Overscene 032 / Calendar 155 / HCMC City Guide 164 / Coffee Cup 168 / Top Eats 174 / Food Promos COLUMNS 146 / The Alchemist
148 / The Therapist
152 / Medical Buff 154 / Book Buff 158 / Business Buff 160 / Body and Temple 172 / A World of Good 182 / Student Eye 184 / Tieng Viet FINAL SAY 188 / Writers Abroad
What that guy with the laptop is actually doing
190 / The Guv’nor
The first Asian governor of South Australia
192 / The Last Call
Melissa Merryweather is Vietnamese architecture’s voice of reason
Honour students Yu Ye Lim and Yoon Ji Hoon achieved 40 points
CONTRIBUTORS
This month we asked Word contributors, what’s your favourite building in the world? HARRY HODGE Writer Parliament Hill Ottawa, Canada Whenever I show people photos of my hometown, Parliament Hill often works its way into the photos; if Washington has the capitol, then this is what Ottawa has. The Big Ben allusions are obvious, but what makes the beautiful buildings shine is the location, set atop a cliff overlooking the Ottawa River, with the province of Quebec across the water. JULIE VOLA Photographer Hundertwasserhaus Vienna, Austria The Hundertwasserhaus is a private apartment house in Vienna, Austria, built in 1983. Hundertwasser’s philosophy is that architecture must be in harmony with nature and man: all public area floors are non-flat as to represent the natural terrain we are meant to walk on. The communal garden rooftops, colours, non-linear structure and the mosaics inside were made by the workers. Hundertwasser let them use their imagination, they had no plans, no drawings for it. Best building ever. DAVID HARRIS Staff Photographer Old Art Deco Building Durban, South Africa My favourite building is an old Art Deco building in Durban. My grandparents used to live on the top floor — I have always enjoyed the eagles at the top. It wasn’t the same colour when I was young. FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Photographer Bradbury Building Los Angeles, US The Bradbury Building in Los Angeles — not only because of the great Italian revival Renaissance design, but also because it was in my fave science fiction movie Blade Runner. It’s a big part of the look of the movie. ED WEINBERG Deputy Editor PSFS Building Philadelphia, US Built in 1932, PSFS was the first international-style skyscraper built in the US. And it used to be super simple to get on its 36-storey roof. Two nights before I flew to Vietnam, I climbed the seven-storey antenna on top. NICK ROSS Chief Editor Stonehenge Wiltshire, England I associate buildings with time, place and memory, and for me the most memorable is Stonehenge at sunrise on the way back from Glastonbury festival. It was before the fences went up — keeping the humans out and the boulders in. We sat backs against the menhirs, watching the sky turn from purple to pink to azure, before returning to the car dreary-eyed to head back to civilisation.
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The prelude at the most important buildings in these two cities. What eras do they come from? What marks them out stylistically? What are their futures? With no clear game plan, Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City seem to be changing piecemeal. In Hanoi, the development focus has been out of town, transforming what was once farmland, jungle and paddy fields into a new city. It’s a grand idea, but with private developers building in any which way they please, My Dinh
is a dustbowl, an odd collection of highrise and town house suburbia dissected by the longest car-only overpass in Vietnam. In Saigon the focus seems to be about using space more effectively, knocking down older buildings and replacing them with high-rises and underground shopping malls. Thu Thiem in District 2 will eventually get developed — and for this there is a grand scheme in place — but only after all the intermediate
wrangling has been resolved. This doesn’t mean that architecturally these two urban centres don’t have anything to commend themselves. Far from it, they do. But now there is a necessity to find a Vietnamese voice, an architectural style to drive this country forward. For if it’s not discovered or implemented soon, our biggest cities will look like everywhere else in this region. And we certainly don’t want that. — Nick Ross
CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC
VIETNAM EDITION AUGUST 2014
ents
The Elem
The of Style Elements of Style W OR DV IE TN AM .C OM
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n our third issue way back in 2008 we ran a cover story called Look Up. The idea was to get a sense of what the city looked like beyond the every day sites we see at street level. It focused on 30 buildings, buildings from different eras that had made their mark on Vietnam. With the physicality of Hanoi, and in particular Saigon, changing at such an alarming rate, we decided to once again delve into the world of architecture, and look
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CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC
VIETNAM EDITION JULY 2014
“During the expedition, he would discover a footprint on the forest floor that, after analysis, was deemed far too large to belong to any known ape. And so, the legend of Vietnam’s own ‘Bigfoot’ was born”
The Jungle Book
In the jungles of Vietnam lurks an unsolved mystery. The missing link, or just a tall tale? Words by Karen Hewell. Illustration by Vu Ha Kim Vy
74 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com
Bigfoot (Page 74, July 2014) Bigfoot in Vietnam? Come on. Are you that stretched for good content? — LH
I knew Vietnam was diverse, at least in its wildlife. But there are some really weird animals in your magazine this month. — AH Some beautiful photos this month. The magazine is looking better and better. — CH
the JUNGLE B OO K NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG
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(July 2014) Are you sure you’re not a cat magazine or something? You’ve got a cat on the front cover, cats inside, in fact cats everywhere! LOL. — DS
The final say OPINION
Breaking Up Bad An open letter to women by Alexander Mayall Dear Women, When it comes to you, I’m no expert. You can love me or try to forget me. I might deserve the last part. I’m just A. Mayall after all — what did you expect? I’m not the best and not the worst, just one man with a story you might enjoy. It’s about karma, internet dating and how I got stung by both.
It’s like the story of Merlin, King Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table. Both France and England have the same myth — the sword coming out of the lake. So does Vietnam, with the sword rising out of the lake on the back of a turtle. But bigfoot? Really. — PS
F
or long periods of the last three years, I have used my power as an educated, professional foreigner for evil instead of good. I dated you with no intention of forming a meaningful relationship. I lied to you about my profession, my age, my whereabouts and even my name if I felt like it. If we saw each other more than once, there’s a chance I went behind your back to see other girls then WhatsApp’d you from their house. I used social media to chat to other women, possibly while we were face to face at dinner, and on more than one occasion I went directly from seeing you straight to someone else. I was a great guy living among you in the city. A real keeper. Before I arrived in Saigon, I’d had some success with women. Don’t scoff at this. I’d also endured failure, however, and it was in the context of this failure that the period of aforementioned offending occurred. No excuses, though, I just wasn’t a very nice guy. The cock and balls of it was that my exwife was a nutcase, so I had to divorce her. This was the breakdown of a relationship that started with the heady euphoria of a holiday romance, segued into visa complications, then fell apart completely during a slow motion roller derby train wreck that took two years to complete. The split was still B for brutal, and it became part of my emotional backstory for the next 18 months. My Breaking up Bad. After two long of expertly working this story into every conversation I ever had, plus all the debauchery and straight out lies, right on cue I met someone great in Saigon. A potential game changer, only online. My housemate had dared me and there it was, this attractive, smiling girl was messaging me. So we met, and despite my reservations about the method, she was awesome. Hot, athletic, fun and stable. An insatiable MILF, only with a kind heart and generous spirit too. She had a good job and a similar history to me, without all the debaucherous lying bits, which I left out of my profile as well. The relationship grew quickly, and before I knew it, I was spending the weekends
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at her upmarket apartment complex and thinking I had it all, because I did. But that’s exactly when it changed. All of a sudden personal moments were being posted on Facebook. Why? Then she was fielding questions about ‘the long term’ that made me sweat. Hmmm — I’ve only known you for six weeks. At the time I wasn’t completely averse to it all, but my reptile brain started to kick in and I became unnecessarily paranoid about her recent history, my own, her child’s father, the future, my goals, my job, China, the ozone layer — and pretty soon alarm bells were ringing along my entire cerebral cortex. I wish I’d had some Xanax to deal with the situation. Instead, I went to my drinking buddies for advice. What do I do bro? How do I handle this chick, man? ********** As expats we skirt a fine line. How long are you here for? What are you doing? Have you just been arrested? Myriad potentialities can prevent you from going where only some dare to go — the longterm relationship with a local lady. The reality of my situation, at that time, was that I couldn’t in all honesty answer the questions I would have asked myself if I were her. Like, What’s this guy up to? What’s his plan? Where is this going? And how is he so incredibly handsome? Everything was still up in the air, and as I’ve learnt since, certain women of a certain age want stability and security. If you’re still asking yourself what you’ll be doing next month and not next year, you might not be measuring up in this department. I wasn’t, and that’s the honest truth. So, despite her declaration of love, in hindsight it wasn’t surprising that after a couple more Q-and-A’s didn’t quite go the way she wanted, she pulled the pin and quickly jumped ship onto an older, more stable, (definitely less exciting), but altogether more reliable charter. At first I didn’t lose it. I didn’t break up bad. I was calm blue oceans and a couple of
boozy nights out with girls I’d met before to ease the pain. So it was bulletproof me, straight back into the selfish hedonism of my life before this girl. But it was a facade, and the reality of that situation quickly sunk in when I woke up next to some strange blonde girl, and I realised how sad it was, and how sad I’d been, and what a great opportunity I had spurned, and why won’t she pick up my calls?! What happened? Had my own brain sabotaged me again? Surely she would take me back, I’m amazing. But it was too late. 123 missed calls, 45 Facebook messages — 39 of them apologising for the first six — a bunch of flowers, a card and one inappropriate visit to her building weren’t going to change that. Unsurprisingly, they only served as confirmation of her decision. The steadier, older ship had already left the port with her in tow, not even waving goodbye. ********** To all the single women still reading I say sorry. To the men who choose to wield their power like second-rate Don Drapers, I say enjoy the ride, but remember that eventually you’ll only have yourself to answer to. For those of you who have arrived here with your girl from home and survived this far, I envy you. These permutations have been sorted out for you, and you’re in a healthy, stable, committed relationship, right? Your penis has an owner, and even though it’s not you, you’re probably quite happy. My simple advice is to be honest at all times, and stay that way. If you break up bad it will be sad, but remember that you’re in exactly the right place to be just like I was before. Yours Sincerely, A. Mayall The views published in this article are those of the writer and do not in any way represent the opinions of Word Vietnam
Breaking up Bad (page 188, July 2014) The writer sounds like an a***hole. You should get a woman writing telling her story. It will make all you men out there cringe. It’s embarrassing. — ZC
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the talk
Wasted Time Individual productivity in Vietnam is surprisingly high
T
he time it takes to get from Tan Son Nhat Airport to downtown Saigon is 25 minutes (motorbike) and 40 minutes (car or taxi). The equivalent journey from Noi Bai to Central Hanoi by car is 40 minutes. If you’re in Hanoi’s West Lake area, then a quick saunter down to the Old Quarter will take under 15 minutes. Saigon’s An Phu to downtown is 20 minutes by car, about the same as it takes from Phu My Hung in District 7. These are all commute times in Vietnam’s two biggest cities. They are short here, even without a completed metro system and designated bus lanes. In Vietnam’s ‘minor’ cities, travel time is even shorter. Head to this planet’s most ‘successful’ metropolises — let’s say London and New York — and commutes take up a far larger part of the working day. We all have stories. At one time my father was spending three hours a day on trains to get from South London to his office in Islington. Our deputy editor, Ed Weinberg, remembers a period where his mother spent six hours a day travelling between New Jersey and her work in Brooklyn, New York. Travel time eats into personal productivity. It translates into time to kill, moments when we could be doing something else, something more productive. It’s time where both individual and national output are lost. Imagine if there was no such thing as a commute. We would have far more time for both work and play.
Western Red Tape Such time savings peculiar to Vietnam can be found in other areas, most notably communication. Here, everyone’s mobile number and email address is on their business card. Email signatures even include Skype addresses. This country has embraced the digital age at full throttle
and people take advantage of it. Aided by free Wi-Fi at every turn — except for when the internet cables go down somewhere in the East Sea — communication is necessarily fast. But head to those ‘developed’ countries overseas and communication is unerringly slow. Locked in a business environment more suited to the 20th century, embracing technology has been a struggle. For example, my doctor in London won’t give me his email address, let alone his mobile phone number. He says it's due to legal reasons. To get in touch with him I have to go through his receptionists who have been taught to block at every turn. Our family lawyer reluctantly gave me his mobile phone number — I don’t use it because mobiles in the UK are for personal, private use. Instead I go through his office’s landline. If he’s busy, I hope to get a call back. Yet if I want to contact the head person of a company in Vietnam, I can always search out their mobile number. It takes time, but with a few calls I can get there. In London I’ll be lucky if I can get past the receptionist. And even if friends have the contacts I need, there is a reluctance to give out such personal information. The obsession with privacy prevents communication — Vietnam just doesn’t have the same hang-ups. And if I get an email address, the response will take around five days. Slow or preventative communication is mot good for a country only just poking its head above recession.
Competitive Advantage There are a number of factors that create economic growth, and one of them is an increase in productivity. In communication and commute times — factors which affect individual productivity — Vietnam has a distinct advantage over its rivals elsewhere. Yes, red tape can slow things down, but on a day-to-day basis, getting things done is relatively easy. Vietnam is often knocked for its shortcomings. But by leapfrogging onto the technological advances of the late 20th and early 21st centuries, and by not being bogged down by the more established and bureaucratic working routines of the developed world, this country is at an advantage. It’s an advantage that will see it do well over the coming years. — Nick Ross
the big five
2.
APOCALAUGHS NOW
On Tuesday, Aug. 19 the jokes are back in town, courtesy of a couple of schlemiels coming all the way from wackier climes to tickle our funny bones at Cargo Bar. This time we have the dubious honour of greeting Messrs. Nick Page (UK) and Peter Berner (AUS) with our Saigonese eyebrow raises and smokers’ coughs. A former estate agent and the presenter of BBC TV series Escape to the Country, Nick Page got into comedy as the result of a bet — he’s still not sure he’s won. Described alternately as “the funniest thing I’ve seen all year” and “a very fine man”, this acclaimed Comedy Store regular has obviously got something right. Peter Berner is also a bit of a TV hit, presenting the ABC series The Einstein Factor from 2004 to 2009. To add to this he hosts You Have Been Watching on The Comedy Channel. A regular on the Australian comedy scene since the 1990s, so accomplished is he that he’s even got a whole Wikipedia page dedicated to himself. Now that’s success, right? Presented by Magners Irish Cider, doors for Apocalaughs Now will open at Cargo Bar — 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC — at 8pm on Aug. 19. The entrance surcharge is VND250,000 — for advance table bookings, email saigoncomedynights@gmail.com. Apocalaughs Now is organised in conjunction with Comedy Club Asia
1.
THE SAIGON SOUND
The emerging Saigon sound is a temperamental, much-debated thing — just see our feature about it on page 98. But just because it can’t be pinned down doesn’t mean it can’t be turned up, as the volume knobs will be at Cargo Bar twice in August, on Aug. 9 and Aug. 29. Aug. 9 is the third edition of the original music showcase Don’t Feed the Monkey — this time pulling in 11 bands. In addition, there will be street artists, art installations, body painters and live visuals. March’s edition was great, and this thing is close to
approaching festival status. Aug. 29 is an EP release party and concert at Cargo, featuring The Love Below, The Magic Pinions, Space Panther and James and the Van Der Beeks. It’s a rare, interesting event in the context of the Saigon scene, and an indication that these bands might be moving beyond the territory they’ve so far claimed. Don’t Feed the Monkey is at Cargo Bar — 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC — on Aug. 9, starting at 5pm. The four-band EP release party and showcase is happening at Cargo on Aug. 29
4. THE HO TRAM OCEAN RACE
3.
TICKLING TAY HO
It’s not just Saigon that is getting its regular comedy nights, but courtesy of The House of Son Tinh and the Hanoi Comedy Collective, so is Hanoi. With the latest Tee Hee in Tay Ho installment set for Friday Aug. 8 and with acclaimed gagmeister Gary Jackson flying in from Hong Kong to support the growing roster of Hanoi homegrown comics, this show is set to make you laugh, giggle, crack up and even wet yourself. The show kicks off at 8pm at The House of Son Tinh, 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi
May’s Le Fruit Triathlon got you used to the idea of Ho Tram as a place not just about relaxation, and now Ho Tram Water Safety and Water Safety Vietnam want to build on that momentum with a charity swim this Aug. 10. Ho Tram Beach Resort is the site of this ocean swim, with competitions in 500m ocean swimming and 500m beach running, and a 1km beach swim and 1km beach run. All proceeds go to charities training the next generation of young swimmers — death by drowning is the biggest killer of children in Vietnam — and prizes from The Grand — Ho Tram Strip, California Fitness, Boomarang and other sponsors will be awarded to the top racers. The Ho Tram Ocean Race is on Aug. 10 at 8am, at Ho Tram Beach Resort in Ho Tram Village. Entry to the 500m swim/500m run is VND750,000, entry to the 1km/1km is VND950,000. For more info, go to hotramoceanrace.weebly.com
5.
SUMMER LUVIN’
Hanoi likes its outdoor, let’s-get-outof-the-city shindigs, and the 24-hour Vibration Hanoi Summer Party on Saturday Aug. 9 is set to yet again help the city satiate its cravings for a good party. Located at Minh Hai Resort, just next to Bat Trang Pottery Village on the Gia Lam side of the Red River, a lakeside BBQ, plenty of bia hoi, cocktails, DJs and copious amounts of dancing will take the party into the early hours and way, way beyond. Bus services to Minh Hai Resort will run from Spy Bar — 12 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi — and advanced tickets are VND100,000 including two free drinks. For more info, email vibrationhanoi@gmail.com or call 0978 101429
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Top two photos provided by Lucy Sexton. Bottom photos by Nick Ross
brief ings
Halong Bay on Land
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Trang An in Ninh Binh is the latest area in Vietnam to get UNESCO recognition
ran, Iraq, Korea, Myanmar, Costa Rica, Germany, Israel and Palestine are a few of the countries granted UNESCO World Heritage Inscriptions this year. This June the Trang An Landscape Complex — 6,172 hectares of winding-river and relentless greenery 90km southwest of Hanoi in Ninh Binh Province — brought Vietnam’s tally to eight total UNESCO World Heritage sites. Trang An, unique among its seven peers, is the nation’s only site distinguished for both its cultural and natural importance. Encompassing three protected areas — Hoa Lu Ancient Capital, the Hoa Lu Special-Use Primary Forest, and the Trang An-Tam CocBich Dong Scenic Area — the complex must now deal with the challenges and rewards of its new global status. According to myth, Trang An’s 200m-high limestone karsts were giant swords standing sentry over the nation’s first capital, Hoa Lu. But even before that — we’re talking some 30,000 years before — these limestone karsts were also a saving grace to Vietnam's prehistoric ancestors. Amid a hostile horizon, Trang An’s dark peaks and ridges must have seemed a mirage, an oasis, to those in need of escape from glacial melt and periods of intense environmental instability that changed Trang An from landscape to seascape and back again. Though the complex’s 30 relatively undisturbed caves, ancient temples
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and pagodas played vital roles in the development of Vietnamese and human history, prior to now it has failed to garner the attention given to Halong Bay — attracting a humble one million visitors in 2011. Things are about to change.
Developing an Attraction Over the past few years the number of tourists visiting Ninh Binh Province has grown annually by 18 to 24 percent. Conservative projections, before the June designation, suggest the province could host six million visitors in 2015 — one million of those being foreign tourists. These numbers are expected to continue rising, especially among foreigners, because of the UNESCO stamp of approval. A month ago, a local Hanoian’s response to a proposed weekend trip to Ninh Binh was one of mild disinterest, at best. Since acquiring its new status, quite a few of the city’s natives and newer residents are feeling the need to see what’s what before much has changed. After an easy two-to-three-hour motorcycle ride, city folk will find themselves amid paddy fields divided by karsts and ridges draped in lush greenery. A walk in any direction will cross paths with wafts of lotus perfume as well as the earthy tones of local farmers’ cowherds. The principal attraction, a three hour-long
traditional sampan boat tour propelled by the rough hands, or feet, of local women, navigates caves, thousand-year-old temples and meandering waterways. The battalion of female sampan guides ready for action are well capable of answering questions if posed in Vietnamese. Their community’s history is intertwined with the landscape and its hidden monuments; their economic wellbeing, too. Income from a single boat can support five family members, making it an important source of revenue for the community. UNESCO-Vietnam applied for the nomination, touting the area as “one of the precious few such sites in Southeast Asia that retains much of its original character without being subjected to large-scale disturbance by later human, animal or other agency.” Yet they also expressed concerns that growing residential and tourist populations could negatively impact the area. The UNESCO stamp, it is argued, will catalyse new efforts to diversify and strengthen tourists’ interaction with the area, as well as educate and involve the local community in the responsibilities of heritage preservation. It remains to be seen what may change for the better or the worse. A few visitors expressed their belief that “nothing’s going to change”. One can only hope. — Lucy Sexton
Photos provided by Loreto Vietnam
brief ings
Loreto Vietnam Loreto Vietnam works tirelessly to give disadvantaged kids a chance in life. Words by Ed Weinberg
“T
his school here,” Steph Giles points to her screen, and the dirt-floored room on it, “is in Phu Yen. We call it ‘Buffalo House’, because this was actually a buffalo’s house. This teacher, she has 30 kids who are three or four years old to entertain all day, with no resources. She’s got nothing on her walls, nothing to play with them with. I mean, I’m a teacher, a pretty alright teacher, and there’s no way I could keep those kids entertained as long as she does every day. She’s amazing.” She flashes onto the next slide — a model classroom, clean, well-lit, with fun drawings hung on white paint. “We have big corridors,” she says, “we have airy, wellventilated classrooms, we have colourful resources for them to play with, and their kids are all able to go school. [On a previous project] there was a school we worked with who could only have 30 kindergarten kids in it. Now, we’ve built a kindergarten, and there are over 200 kids in the village going to this kindergarten.” Steph Giles is communications manager at Loreto, one of Vietnam’s longest-operating INGOs. “Our slogan is ‘Lifting learners into the future’,” she says, “and all of our projects are about education.” Operating in Vietnam since 1997, Loreto “aims to be a child-orientated future builder, in the form of education, and we want to inspire and empower these children in really remote places, and children who are disabled.”
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Steph flashes onto another slide of an outdoor, two-walled room. “This was a library apparently. Of course they can’t do library if it’s raining. There were no books. “We turn these [facilities] into learning environments the kids actually want to come and learn in. They’ve never had the opportunity to take a book home and borrow it. “As a foreigner, you walk into these schools and [the kids] often stare at you. I went to an opening of a library, and they didn’t even notice that [Loreto founder and CEO] Trish Franklin and I were there. They were so excited about the books — they had no interest in the fact that all these strangers were standing there!”
Farflung Effects “Our mission is to offer sustainable education aids and assistance to underprivileged children,” she adds. “We want them to give back to their community, to be able to participate in society, to have all of their knowledge behind them and the resources to do so.” In empowering the children of communities, they empower the communities themselves — first by providing assistance in both construction and support networks, then by gradually stepping down involvement, until these communities are able to guide the projects themselves. To do this, Loreto works with local
government departments, the People’s Committees and the Union of Friendship Organisations of farflung regions. “It’s 10 hours on a river sometimes,” Steph says of the reconnaissance involved in checking potential partners, “down on a little boat, stopping at each school that we need to, on the back of the motorbike. We work in quite remote places.” They also work in Ho Chi Minh City, where they teach kids with vision impairments confidence-building skills like swimming, horseback riding, biking and reading braille in English. Steph says, “We had three boys by the end of last semester swimming 25-metre laps independently. All of them are either blind or vision-impaired. “Obviously, learning how to swim is great. But they’re building confidence.” And what does this confidence bring them? “We’ve just had one of our students awarded a full scholarship to RMIT,” Steph says. Vinh is completely blind, and has been through all of Loreto’s programmes. In addition, he’s something of a Loreto poster boy, having done magazine interviews in the past talking about Loreto. Now studying Professional Communications at RMIT, he hasn’t forgotten the effect Loreto had on his life. “Without Loreto,” he says, “I would not have the base to develop my English skills.” For more information on Loreto, including how you can help, head to loretovietnam.org
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brief ings
I
Giving Ho Chi Minh City a much needed facelift
f you could give Saigon a makeover, what would you change for the better? It’s the question that Global Shapers — a worldwide network of young entrepreneurs dedicated to boosting community engagement — are asking the creatively inclined of Ho Chi Minh City throughout August. Their newest competition, Saigon Makeover, calls on the artistic energies of the city’s creatives in an attempt to bring community engagement into a new sphere — public space. By pitting designers, street artists, architects and other artistic people against each other in creating digital renderings of how they would beautify Saigon’s public spaces, the team is hoping to ignite a newfound dedication among the city’s residents. That is, the dedication to getting invested in improving shared space in Ho Chi Minh City. “Public space is especially important in cities. When we think of iconic cities, we inevitably think of public space,” says Anh Thu Nguyen, one of the organisers and a dedicated global shaper bent on a better Saigon. “They are the markers of a city — the reasons we choose to stay or not. [Public space] is a way for [residents] to demonstrate social values.”
Shared Creativity For Ho Chi Minh City, those demonstrations of shared values in public space could be a mural painted on a bare concrete wall or a mosaic along a highway median. With a little bit of Photoshop magic, a barren construction site could become a familyfriendly park, and a derelict parking lot a public garden. And while the possibilities are seemingly endless, the goal is simple: to get an idea of what Saigon could look like in the future. “We hope to inspire [people] to think about their cities, because when people think
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about improvements [in public space] in the cities they live in, that’s usually something we think of someone else as doing,” says Anh Thu. “[For Saigon Makeover], we want to remind people that ideas for improvement aren’t necessarily something you have to wait for someone else to come up with.” While Saigon Makeover is certainly one of the most audacious endeavours for beautifying Saigon’s shared areas, it’s not the city’s first foray into public art. Street art is finding its place on some of the city’s previously bare concrete walls, and events like Saigon Outcast’s Melting Pot are transforming graffiti into creative expressions welcome in a public arena. Budding local interest in using public space as a blank canvas is part of what Saigon Makeover hopes to grow, rather than something they’re hoping to create from scratch. “We hope that people will be inspired by this competition, and see some of these ideas as avenues for improvement which could be implemented,” Anh Thu says. “There are already groups in Saigon that beautify walls, for example. We hope to inspire people to do more things like that.” More than anything, Anh Thu and the Global Shapers group are hoping to get Saigonites turned on to their responsibility to their communities. For Saigon Makeover, the focus on public space is not just about a wall or a building, but something that connects a city’s people. “[Public space] is incredibly powerful because we share it,” says Anh Thu. – Karen Hewell The competition runs until Aug. 31, and welcomes submissions by anyone inclined to bring their own creative ideas to a public space in Saigon. Submissions of photos of real spaces in Saigon with digital renderings of improvements are invited. More information on submissions can be found by visiting saigonmakeover.com
Photos provided by Anh Thu Nguyen
Saigon Makeover
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brief ings
Reconstructing the City W The pending metro line makes an imprint in Saigon. Photo by Francis Xavier
hen the World Banksponsored Ho Chi Minh City Environmental Sanitation Project kicked off in 2001, it was a precursor to an overhaul of the city’s water system. Nhieu Loc Canal in District 3 was dredged, while 51km of combined primary and secondary sewers and 375km of tertiary sewers were replaced. The renovation caused roads to be dug up and traffic to be brought to a halt. An estimated 1.2 million people benefitted from the project, but the disruption was extensive. The latest city-changing project is the metro line, and at the end of July the underground section of Line 1 finally made its mark on downtown Ho Chi Minh City. Three underground stations are planned — at Ben Thanh, The Opera House and Ba Son Shipyard — and an additional 11 stations will be built overground.
Line 1
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Work is already underway at the terminal opposite Ben Thanh Market. Housed 40m underground, the central station will consist of two parts: three storeys for four metro systems — the first floor for Lines 1 and 3A, the second for Line 2, and the third for Line 4. These will be surrounded by retail shops and a 25,500sqm trade centre will be located underground along Le Loi.
Lines 1 and 2 Now work on the Opera House Station has started, with the central car-only area on Le Loi and part of Nguyen Hue closed off. The roundabout and central reservation at the junction of the two roads has been torn down to make way for the development, and as a result traffic has intensified along Le Thanh Ton. Due to go into operation in 2018
Line 2
and initially expected to serve 160,000 passengers daily, with only a small part of the line running underground, Line 1 will have little effect on the overall look and feel of downtown Saigon. Line 2, however, which will initially run from Ben Thanh to Tham Luong in District 12, will create far more disruption. Running underground along Cach Mang Thang Tam before heading out towards Cu Chi and Tay Ninh, its construction will make for extensive traffic delays in an already over-congested area of the city. The construction of Line 3, which will run from Ben Thanh to Binh Tan, will also affect traffic in the city, as will Line 4, which will connect Van Thanh and Tan Binh. Having an extensive metro system is vital for Ho Chi Minh City. The journey to get there, however, requires a fair amount of pain along the way. — Nick Ross
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brief ings
Made for Mondays
Monday Night Football is a whole new ball game in Vietnam. Photo by Kyle Phanroy
T
“I gotta get ready, make everything right, 'cause Monday night football’s coming on tonight.”— Hank Williams Jr., Monday Night Football
hat classic anthem gets North American pulses racing, with the words “Monday Night Football” evoking images of gridiron glory and acrobatic touchdowns. In Vietnam, it’s just as thrilling, but for different reasons. Here, the football is played with a round black-and-white ball and goalies. It’s also five-a-side for Saigon Monday Night Football, every week at 34-35 Ben Van Don in District 4. I sauntered by one Monday, and was pleased to see four fields at the non-descript sports complex/garage not only in good shape, but with two taken over by the Monday Night Football lads, their games played at a brisk clip. Five-a-side not only means more individual chances with the ball, but considerably more shots on goal. One game I was watching was 5-4 at halftime, considerably different to some of the scorelines at the World Cup earlier this summer. By the end of a 40-minute match, the tallies are high and the legs are burning.
Multi-Cultural Roaming from game to game, the chatter was mostly English, but with a variety of
different accents; some with an African lilt, others with a South American twang. Amid them was Irish expat Sean Boyle, who put the league together some two years ago not just to connect with other expats, but to put his skills as a goalkeeper to good use. “I write a prediction column, the players like to see their names mentioned,” Boyle admits. “We’ve gotten 50,000 hits on the website.” Indeed, Boyle’s coverage manages to be both thorough and cheeky all at once. Predicted scores are incorporated into recounts of the previous week’s action along with storylines that need a keen observer’s knowledge of the league. Close tabs are also kept on player statistics. “(Players) used to be mostly teachers, but now they’re from all over Europe, Africa, South America,” Boyle says. “Nearly all the teams have a mixture.” Boyle also says it’s not unusual to have the odd foreign scout attend matches, since some talented local Vietnamese players have been known to invite scouts along to play and watch. Certainly, the pace suggests most teams weren’t just there for a casual jog around the grounds; they were serious about winning.
“This guy was crying out for talent,” says Sam Morley, a Manchester, UK native, while pointing at Boyle. ”(The talent level) is quite good, there are some talented chaps.”
The Spoils Is it a stepping stone to the V-League? Let’s not get ahead of ourselves, maybe it’s best to focus on league accolades first. The competition features the ILA Super Cup, sponsored by the English school chain and played for charity, and the Loud Minority Cup, sponsored by the music promoter of the same name for an end-of-year playoff tournament between the league’s top teams. At the same time, just getting out for a kick around isn’t so bad on its own. “I love football,” Boyle says. “It’s competitive but it’s fun, all abilities can come to play. Everyone looks forward to it on a Monday night.” — Harry Hodge A season includes eight or nine regular games, then playoffs. The playing cost is VND480,000 per team per week. Boyle estimates the league holds up to four seasons in a year. Visit leaguesite. co.uk/saigonmondaynightfootball or the ’Saigon Monday Night Football’ Facebook page for more information
brief ings
A Party to Remember
Photos provided by Phil Deans / Zeno Designs
Sailing Club celebrates two decades of decadence
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I
n a country with such a short contemporary history, 20 years is a long time. A very long time. It was with that knowledge that Sailing Club celebrated its two decades of existence last month, with an epic party that jammed in 2,500 revellers and a whole lot of entertainment. A pioneer of the country’s
nightlife scene, this was going to be one to remember. With Nha Trang long-termers including the salubrious likes of Petit Bistro’s Claude Durand (otherwise known as Ong Ga Phap) and Bambou’s Eric Fraboulet joining Sailing Club founder Peter Vidotto and his team, a live band, fire show, fluorescent Russian
dancers (you had to be there) and DJ Timmy Vegas led the line into the early hours. The antics stopped at 3am, but for many who were still in the zone, it wasn’t quite enough. Fortunately, Sailing Club ain’t going nowhere, no time soon. Nor are Nha Trang sunsets. Time to pencil in anniversary number 30.
Photo by Francis Xavier
N
amed in homage to the famous Japanese YouTube celebrity cat Maru’s adventures in tight places, this Maru came to ARC with his energetic brother Sky. Maru is a lovable hooligan, kicking when in battle with a toy but cuddling when in contact with a volunteer, yowling his affections out loud for all to hear. He’s a very easy cat, loves all humans, all cats and all food. Especially little pieces of chicken that fall on the floor. And his best quality? It’s his love for his brother Sky. In a perfect world, they’d both be adopted together. He’s active, spayed, fully vaccinated and waiting for you to take him home today. Contact arcpets@gmail.com to make your date with kitty destiny.
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Ho Chi minh city what s on
CONJURING CAPITAL
SAIGON ROCK LOTTERY The bands are drawn, and the rockers will square off Aug. 28 at Cargo (7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4). The idea was simple: to throw a bunch of musicians into a hat, draw out sensible bands from the blind-drawn results and rock out for charity! But now it’s war. Group 1 is a thoughtful bunch — made up of Freckled Gypsys’ Maeve Meleady, Saigon Kiss’s Elle Odessa, the mysterious Benjamin Earman and former Joy Oi! and Sunless frontman Matt Bender. Group 2 is a bit extreme — with Gabrielle Villalobos of UGWAE, Gareth Katz of James and the Van Der Beeks, Jesse Peterson of the 67s and Keith Landberger, the ILA teacher who shaved his head to raise VND10 million for Little Rose Shelter, the Rock Lottery’s designated cause. Group 3 is funky eclecticism personified — church drummer/ accomplished fencer Rina Guzman, Jameson Jam regular Ruan Piek, The Love Below’s Tanya Smackdab and Alec Schachner of UGWAE and the 67s. But the most important group is the one they’re doing this all for — Little Rose Shelter. Little Rose is a District 7 shelter for young girls who have been victims of sexual abuse, and this fundraiser is to help them build a nice, fully-stocked library. Helping with the music side of things is non-profit student group, Anh Duong, designed to get young people involved in charitable endeavours — future leaders learning the value and importance of helping those in need. It’s pretty win-winwin, so head to the showdown and finally use your love of ‘devil’s music’ for good. The Saigon Rock Lottery show is at Cargo — 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC — on Aug. 28. Or help Little Rose Shelter directly by clicking on littleroseshelter.wordpress.com
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Traditional wisdom has long had it that artists don’t think too much about money. San Art’s new group show Conjuring Capital is set to reject that myth emphatically. Six artists from five countries will promote the concept that time invested is an exchange value that justifies and determines wealth. Opening Aug. 7 and running through Oct. 30, Conjuring Capital takes a page from Marx and contrasts it with the neo-colonial realities of our modern world, through this assortment of perspectives from the Global South. On display will be work from Adriana Bustos (Argentina), Christopher
Myers and Hank Willis Thomas (USA), Ngoc Nau (Vietnam), Sudarshan Shetty (India) and Than Sok (Cambodia). Part of the Conscious Realities series, the show will bring human/jungle/museum dioramas, Buddhist ritual practice, a snake which straddles death and mortality, African microfinance and Indian holy sites into the same arena, examining each in terms of its place in the schema of global capital. Conjuring Capital opens on Aug. 7 at 6pm at San Art — 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, HCMC — and runs until Oct. 30. For more information, consult san-art.org
3A STATION BAZAAR 3A Station’s been quietly forming — or not so quietly, depending on the accounts you’ve read — but now they’re taking all that latent artistic energy and using it to raise money for charity. The first 3A Station Bazaar on Aug. 16 and Aug. 17 will showcase locally sourced and handmade products over 40 tables, with a unique gimmick — two 30-minute ‘Happy Time Sales’ each day, where everything will be discounted 10 percent. From then on, they’ll be running weekend markets on
the first and third weekends of every month, rain or shine. In addition to the sales, 3A Station’s using their newfound high profile to raise awareness for charity — and they’ll be spotlighting Saigon Children’s Charity in this first edition. Food and performances will also be part of this intriguing effort. The 3A Station Bazaar is kicking off on Aug. 16 and Aug. 17 at 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC and will run from 9am to 8pm. For more info, contact Trang on 0902 373403
DANANG MARATHON 2014 For the second edition of the Danang Marathon on Aug. 31, 4,500 runners are expected to participate from all over the world. There will be three brackets — the marathon level (42.2km), the halfmarathon (21.1km) and the fun run (5km). Registration ranges from VND635,000 for the fun run to VND2.33 million for the full marathon. All finishers of the marathon and half-marathon challenge will receive a medal and T-shirt. The top finishers in each race will also receive prizes, to be awarded at a gala dinner. And the marathon’s target charity, Danang Cancer Hospital, will receive the biggest prize of all — your generous support. The Danang Marathon 2014 takes place in Danang on Aug. 31, split into a full marathon, half marathon and 5km fun run. For up-to-theminute details, check rundanang.com
DO THE D.A.N.C.E. After helping to make Saigon a hotbed of dance, Dancenter is concentrating on our future — pop culture-loving kids. With three different ranges of options, Dancenter is running kids’ dance workshops from now until Aug. 22. For kids ages four and up, there’s a cartoon heroes themed workshop, with moves cribbed from movies like Madagascar and Rio. For those seven years and up, there are pop star-themed workshops and musical theatre workshops — building those performance skills your kids thought they had before, but really didn’t have. And, in advance of the hiphop Battle of the Year dance competition, take your 10-year-olds to Dancenter’s hip-hop battle-themed workshop, which samples the sickest styles from across the globe! To learn more about Dancenter’s workshops, head to dancenter.vn. Dancenter’s workshops cost VND1,999,000 for a week of two-hour sessions
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Ho Chi minh city Mooncake Madness
what s on
SELF-ENHANCEMENT YOGA Yoga isn’t all about being in a quiet environment and stretching — it’s about meditation and self-enhancement. Starting this summer on Aug. 25, Life Bright Yoga at Star Fitness Center introduces two teacher-training courses available to both adults and children. The Kids Training Course is spread over three active and informative days, and runs for a total of 20 hours. 200 Hour
is a training course for adults that runs from Sep. 22 to Oct. 17. Fees for the Kids Training Course clock in at VND8.47 million, and it’s VND53 million for the 200 Hour course. Light Bright Yoga teaching courses will take place at Star Fitness Center, 1st Floor, The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Q2, HCMC. For further information about the courses, visit lifebright.org
O boxes.
n the eve of the MidAutumn Festival, we take a look at what’s inside those beautiful
Annam Gourmet annam-gourmet.com Annam Gourmet is getting into the mooncake game with a wisdom that belies their years, and some delicate and vibrant looking mooncakes to boot! Until Sep. 8, stop by Annam to discover what’s inside those clever interlocking boxes. It might just be the nicest thing the moon’s done for you all year.
New World Hotel
BOTTIN IS BACK! “One of the finest purveyors of electronic disco around” (Vice Magazine) is hitting Saigon for the second time this Aug. 1 at The Observatory — the nu disco dervish last hit Saigonese shores for EADJ’s fourth anniversary. Raised on analogue synths and music from Italian Giallos and horror movies, his sets are an unpredictable journey into
space disco, Italo rarities and deep funk. As Pitchfork says, “When it comes to nu disco, Italians don’t necessarily do it better. But William Bottin makes a good case.” Bottin graces The Observatory’s (cnr. of Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1) sound system Aug. 1 at 10pm — VND100,000 entry. For a sneak hear, go to soundcloud.com/bottin
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saigon.newworldhotels.com Mooncakes are well known in Asia for their lovely baked skin and a surprise mixedfilling centre. Look no further than the New World Hotel from now to Sep. 8, as Saigon Bakery brings back traditional mooncakes with a nice variety of flavours like green bean, white lotus, panda lotus, black sesame and coconut. For a unique taste, try the hotel’s Pandan Lotus flavour, not found anywhere else in the city. Purchase these mooncakes for VND850,000 for a box of four, or VND185,000 each cake, with special discounts on purchases of 10
to 20 boxes. This is the one time of year your sweet tooth and your traditional values match up perfectly.
Renaissance Riverside renaissance-saigon.com Kabin has long been known for their mooncakes — those tasty turns on tradition like Green Tea Custard Azuki, Pearl of Hamony, Pure Lotus and Imperial Ivory. And if you think ahead — and how could you not, knowing of all the harmony and success in your future? — you’ll get 10 to 20 percent discounts off bulk orders from now until Aug. 31. Hurry up, mooncakes don’t knock twice.
Shang Palace shangpalace.com.vn This time of year, Shang Palace puts on their thinking caps to drum up the best innovations in the world of mooncakes. And they’ve done it again — with the new Macadamia Nut & Lychee Paste cake, as well as the old standbys Ham X.O, Coffee & Lotus Seed, healthy Green Tea, tempting Durian and the inspired Red Bean & Black Sesame Paste. With eight mooncakes to a box, you won’t be saying, “Shang’s for nothing!” (unless you love puns, and are moderately corny)
THE RETRO PARTY TO END ALL RETRO PARTIES The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is winding back the clock on Aug. 9, with a sumptuous, free flow dinner followed up by DJs cranking up the vibes — just like the prom you wish you had. This tidy package includes an overnight stay, two tickets to Retro Night, round-trip transfers from Ho Chi Minh City, 30 percent discounts on facial treatments
at The Spa, a slot tournament for foreign passport holders and special rates for 18 holes at The Bluffs — all for VND5,880,000++. Hurry up and book, yesteryear won’t be here forever. Retro Night at The Grand – Ho Tram Strip is on Aug. 9. For reservations, email reservations@ thegrandhotramstrip.com or call 0643 788888
BATTLE OF THE YEAR! Battle of the Year is the highlight of the year’s dance events for dancers of all kinds; whether you like to dance or to watch people dance, this event will be screaming for you! This international dance-off will be held on Aug. 9 at Tan Binh Gymnasium (18 Xuan Hong, Tan Binh, HCMC) from 11am to 11pm. Besides the performances
of 23 break-dancing groups — with 218 funky b-boys and b-girls — there will also be famous Vietnamese DJs such as Red Ant (aka Bui Minh Tri) laying down the beat. Battle of the Year takes place Aug. 9 at Tan Binh Gymnasium, 18 Xuan Hong, Tan Binh, HCMC. For more details, go to facebook.com/ battleoftheyearvn
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Ho Chi minh city what s on
PRIME MOVER
MARKETING AND MEDIA FOR PROS Most of those marketing mixers are little more than an excuse to get drinks with interesting people, but M2’s new concept is a bit more ‘hands-on’. Created as a monthly forum for people in advertising, digital, marketing, media and technology to meet industry experts and each other, M2’s Aug. 6 event at Cargo will give those in the know a chance to learn more. Three speakers will give networkers something to icebreak with — Andrew Duck, Managing Director of Audience Media, tackling Publishing in the Digital Age; Phi Nguyen, Managing Partner of Indochina, World
Franchise Associates, giving a talk entitled From Vietnam to the World — Can Vietnamese Brands Make It?; and Aske Ostergard, Managing Director of Epinion Asia, speaking on Digital Audience Measurement. Each presenter will be speaking for 15 to 20 minutes, and will then lead a Q&A. This will all be followed by a networking party. The M2 Marketing and Media Network event will be held on Aug. 6, 6pm to 9pm at Cargo, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Tickets to the event are VND250,000 preregistered, VND350,000 at the door. For more info or to register go to m2.vietnambusiness.tv/enews/august
José Lozano Casado Manager at The Cube Bar facebook.com/thecubesaigon José Lozano Casado (aka Emmanuel Rudzitsky) came to Ho Chi Minh City from his native Spain vis-à-vis Germany to study for his Master’s, and decided to stay and get further involved in the cultural and music projects in the city. He’s done that in the four years since, working at The Others Creative House and managing The Cube Bar, collaborating in projects like Neighbors and Saigon Artbook, and developing a side career as photographer and videographer
Show I’m really excited about: [The new run of]
Standpoint Theories, date not yet confirmed... Having seen most of the performers individually I’m very excited to see what this group of talented minds will bring.
Best night out last month: Nope, it wasn’t Es-
SAIGON CHAMBER MUSIC 2014 Although orchestral music is suffering a 50-year downturn in most of the world, young musicians in Vietnam are increasingly turning to the soothing stir of the strings, brass and ivory. And this Aug. 2 to Aug. 9, Saigon Chamber Music 2014 aims to keep their attention, with a week of coaching, instrument-specific workshops, music talks, a faculty recital on Aug. 2 and a student concert to cap it off on Aug. 8. Participating in the classical event of the year will be renowned Vietnamese-by-wayof-UK pianist Tra Nguyen,
UK cellist Zoë Martlew and concert master of the Norwegian Radio Orchestra, violinist Atle Sponberg. With 35 of the best young musicians Vietnam has to offer learning at their hands, Saigon Chamber Music 2014 promises to provide enough classical entertainment to keep you going for the rest of the year. Events take place at the Ho Chi Minh City Conservatory — 112 Nguyen Du, Q1 — from Aug. 2 to Aug. 9, with the faculty concert on Aug. 2 and the student concert on Aug. 8. For more info check facebook. com/saigonchambermusic, or head to ticketbox.vn to purchase tickets
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cape... Bangarang at La Fenetre Soleil and Neighbors Midnight Pink Pride at The Cube. [Coowner of La Fenetre] Cinta is doing a great job in bringing in plenty of artists, helping Saigon to have a live, alternative music scene. But can’t forget the amazing opening of VietPride 2014 with Neighbors — LGBT parties are my weakness!
Best meal from last month: Was at TIB Restaurant, great company and the best Hue food in town.
Thing I posted on Facebook that got the most likes: A cup of cappuccino
with my face and name on it. I guess it was de thuong...
Funniest Youtube clip of the month: Ivan el Trolazo Song I can’t get out of
my head: Bailando (Enrique Iglesias, featuring Gente de Zona). Latin hits always stick in my head. I wish this band would come to town: I wanna see a Boiler Room event, no matter who’s DJing. They are all insane.
How is the scene going? The scene is definitely going up. We are trying hard to offer some more options to EDM and commercial hip-hop, where the only thing that matters is the pose. But we need more gear, more people.
The best secret in town is: Com tam suon op la at the corner of Calmette Bridge and Hoang Dieu in District 4, open till late.
Where I go when I go out on my own: Sneak onto a
high building with access to the rooftop. I try to do it at 6pm, to see how the night is getting started.
If my older-yet-still-cool Mom came to town, I would like her to: Bring
my older sister with, and party with us (Mom, you stay at the hotel okay?).
Ho Chi minh city Just In HAND-PULLED NOODLES With all the good Chinese food we have in Ho Chi Minh City, it’s a wonder Tam Hao is our first non-fancy hotel hand-pulled noodle place. But thankfully they do it right — as they’ve proven in drawing a consistent crowd through their first year of operation at 66 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1. Capitalising on the momentum they’ve generated there, they opened a second location in The Pham last month — and with its tastefully designed interior and a hip, worldly cuisine, it’s helping to change the backpacker’s district we thought we knew for the better. Tam Hao Handpulled Noodles’ new shop is at 195A De Tham, Q1. Go to tamhao.com for a sneak peek
VIVA TAPAS BAR & GRILL District 7 now has one more good tapas option, to make up for the quality seafood option it replaced. VIVA Tapas Bar & Grill has supplied Phu My Hung with classic Andalusian tapas dishes and funky originals since June, when it took the place of shortlived Chau’s Seafood and Grill. Keeping the same Mediterranean theme, VIVA makes the atmosphere convincing with imported Serrano ham and chorizo, and some of the funkiest decor you’ll find in all of Ho Chi Minh City. VIVA is at R4-28 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7, or online at facebook.com/VIVATapasBar.PMH
overscene ho chi minh
A Day of Discovery
Photos provided by Renaissance Riverside Hotel Downtown five-star Renaissance Riverside put together an evening of cocktails, arts and stunningly designed contemporary jewellery with the aid of Galerie Quynh, Vivekkevin and a nice dose of live music.
If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look.
my city project-exhibiion
Photos by Francis Xavier Zero Station was the location for an interactive exhibition hosted by Liar Ben and Truong Minh Quy that brought in the multi-exposure photographs of Bang Duong
The Cube Grand opening
Photos by Ed Weinberg Downtown Spanish-influenced watering hole The Cube bar celebrated their grand opening with The Love Below and DJ Pe Dro spinning some groovy tunes
Hcmc
august 2014 BATTLE OF THE YEAR
I
f want to get a look at western influence in the Vietnamese mainstream music scene, don’t look stageside. Battle of the Year highlights the tremendous strides hip-hop dancing has taken out here for all the world to see.
3A STATION BAZAAR
3
A Station is calling in the reinforcements for the first of its bi-monthly weekend markets, set to have 40 stalls selling locally sourced and handmade products, and to deliver on the communityoriented promise many feel the space holds.
AUG. 9 — TAN BINH GYMNASIUM
01 friday
AUG. 16 + 17 — 3A STATION
11 Monday
The ObservaTOry presenTs DJ bOTTin. 10pm @ The Observatory. see What’s On MelODica WiTh DJ Max cleO. 10pm @ last call
02 saturday rOller DiscO WiTh DJ bOng. 10pm @ last call saigOn chaMber Music 2014. From 2 to 9 aug. @ The ho chi Minh city conservatory (112 nguyen Du, Q1). see What’s On
03 sunday 04 monday 05 tuesday 06 wednesday
early birD special. everyday from 6pm to 9pm, buy 1 get 1 free on drinks @ last call innOvaTive OsTrich OFFerings. From Aug. 9 to 15 @ Reflections restaurant, caravelle hotel. see Food promos
12 Tuesday MOOncake prOMOTiOns. special discount when purchasing mooncakes. until aug. 31 @ kabin. see What’s On
M2 MarkeTing anD MeDia neTWOrk evenT. 6pm @ cargo bar. see What’s On
13 Wednesday
07 thursday
inTernaTiOnal leFTie’s Day.
cOnJuring capiTal Opening. 6pm @ san art (3 Me linh, binh Thanh). see What’s on
08 friday 09 saturday DOn’T FeeD The MOnkey. Original saigon music concert, 5pm @ cargo bar. see big5 baTTle OF The year! break Dance cOMpeTiTiOn. 11am to 11pm @ Tan binh gymnasium. see What’s On reTrO nighT aT The granD. 8pm @ The grand - ho Tram strip. see What’s On
10 sunday The hO TraM Ocean race. charity Ocean swim, from 8am @ ho Tram beach resort in ho Tram village. see big5
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14 Thursday laDies prOMOTiOn. every Thu. ladies in groups of 3 or more receive complimentary cocktails. From 6 to 11pm @ last call
15 Friday 90’s rnb hip hOp WiTh DJ valenTin. 10pm @ last call
16 Saturday sOunD shakeDOWn WiTh Dan lO. 10pm @ last call 3a sTaTiOn bazaar. From aug. 16 to 17, 9m to 10pm @ 3a station (3a Ton Duc Thang, Q1). see What’s On
17 Sunday
To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordvietnam.com by no later than August 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo
CONJURING CAPITAL
I
n another of the group shows and high concepts that San Art’s lately been trafficking in, Conjuring Capital aims to discuss the meaning of capital in terms of the indigenous values of the Global South.
SAIGON ROCK LOTTERY
T
he year’s funkiest charity concept is taking the stage at Cargo, marking the sixth week these makeshift bands-pickedfrom-a-hat will have together, and their ultimate test — a battle of the bands.
AUG. 28 — CARGO BAR
ONGOING — SAN ART
18 monday MOOncake MaDness. until sep. 8 @ annam gourmet
19 Tuesday
25 Monday 26 Tuesday
DOuble TrOuble. every Tue. buy 1 get 1 free all night long @ last call apOcalaughs nOW. 8pm @ cargo bar. see big5
20 Wednesday cOnJuring capiTal exhibiTiOn. runs until Oct. 30 @ san art. see What’s On
27 Wednesday 28 Thursday saigOn rOck lOTTery. charity music event, 8pm @ cargo bar. see What’s On
29 Friday spiriT OF hOuse WiTh DJ valenTin. 10pm @ last call vegeTaTiOn DevasTaTiOn. until aug. 25, special vegetarian menu @ shang palace. see Food promos
21 Thursday
30 30 saturday saturday
Wine TasTing. 8pm @ Mekong Merchant (23 Thao Dien, Q2)
22 Friday Fish ‘n chips rebOOT. From aug. 16 to 22 @ saigon saigon bar, caravelle hotel
23 Saturday crabulOus Dining. until aug. 31 @ yu chu, intercontinental asiana saigon. see Food promos
a special sunseT Jazz. soft Jazz with Tokyo’s renowned Jazz legend shun sakai. 5.30pm @ The Deck (38 nguyen u Di, Q2) planeT’s suiTe WiTh nic FOrD. 10pm @ last call
24 Sunday
31 sunday Danang MaraThOn 2014. see What’s On
wordvietnam.com | August 2014 Word | 33
hanoi what s on
SUMMER SOUNDS AND TAPAS THBC Spanish Tapas Bar is bringing a little bit of international sound to the table on Aug. 21, with classically trained soprano Jennifer Whennen alongside Franco-Romanian guitarist Jean Constantinesco. With flamenco flair blended with classical French vocals, the pair are a charming balance of smooth vibes and fiery speed thanks to their collection of jazz, folk and Latin numbers. The THBC Spanish Tapas Bar is located at 44, Lane 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Entrance is VND50,000 and the show begins at 8PM
FOODIE JOURNEY THROUGH ITALY Il Faro is taking Hanoian gastronomers on a journey through Italy, but there’s no passport required. With a new menu each week throughout August, visitors to Il Faro can taste the best of Liguria, Sardegna and Sicily, with a few places in between. Il Faro is located at Villa 3, 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Visit bnbilfarohanoi.wordpress. com for weekly menus and more information
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A MUSICAL JOURNEY
MEET THE AUTHOR
American pianist Anne Chamberlain together with sopranos Ryoko Bohmuki and Dao Thi To Loan, as well as Vietnamese pianist Dinh Thu Huong will come together at the Goethe Institut on Friday Aug. 22 to perform works by Mozart, Mendelssohn, Schubert, Schumann and Strauss. Taking the audience on a musical journey of 18th century German classical music, this will be the third time that Chamberlain will have played at the Goethe Institut, having already performed in 2010 and 2013. The concert will take place at the Goethe Institut, 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi on Friday, Aug. 22 from 7pm. Tickets are available from 10am on Monday Aug. 18 at the Goethe Institut. For more information email info@hanoi.goethe.org
The latest in Bookworm’s Meet the Author series, on Wednesday Aug. 6 Hanoi Cooking Centre will play host to Di Li and Dick Gebuys in Conversation. A popular Vietnamese author and translator, Di Li will converse with Dutch poet and historian Dick Gebuys about his poetry that she has translated into Vietnamese. In response, Gebuys will open up a dialogue with Di Li about her short stories. The conversations and an open discussion will be in both English and Vietnamese. The event will take place in the restaurant at Hanoi Cooking Centre, 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi on Wednesday Aug. 6 from 7pm. Entry is free. Pre-event meals, snacks and drinks can be purchased at the venue. For more information call (04) 3715 3711 or email bookworm@fpt.vn
FREE YOGA Studio Five Yoga & Wellness is offering yoga enthusiasts a free, three-day trial at their studios on Bui Thi Xuan. With 20 different styles of yoga available, all taught by experienced teachers, the trial offers unlimited daily access to the centre’s facilities for each day it is used. Offering a great environment to experience “the longest journey inward”, simply pop down to Studio Five at 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung to take advantage of this special offer.
UNESCO IN THE FRAME The Japan Foundation welcomes the photographic work of Kazuyoshi Miyoshi until Aug. 9 in a journey around Japan’s UNESCO World Heritage sites. The talented photographer spent months travelling the country to capture such locations as Shirakami-Sanchi Mountain Range, the historic monuments of ancient Nara and the Ogasawara Islands in a stunning display of natural and historical beauty. The work of Kazuyoshi Miyoshi is on exhibition until Aug. 9 at The Japan Foundation, 27 Quang Trung, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Admission is free
OPERA IN THE CAPITAL Opera lovers will be happy to know that screenings and concerts are continuing to come to Hanoi, with August and September playing host to two performances. On Aug. 6, a concert by the Vietnam National Opera and Ballet including arias from Gioachino Rossini’s opera Il barbiere di Siviglia (The Barber of Seville) will be performed at Hanoi Opera House (1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem). This is followed on Sep. 7 at Hanoi Cinematheque (22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem) with A Night at the Opera, a screening of the classic production of Giacomo Puccini’s opera Madama Butterfly. For further information email info@hanoioperaguild.com or check directly with the venues
Once reserved exclusively for royalty, tranquil Westlake now boasts Hanoi’s Gold-Standard serviced residences. Minutes from the city with unobstructed lake views, Fraser Suites Hanoi offers you the award-winning service even ancient kings would envy.
THE FRASER COLLECTION BAHRAIN • BANGALORE • BANGKOK • BEIJING • BUDAPEST • CHENGDU • DOHA • DUBAI • EDINBURGH • GLASGOW • GUANGZHOU • GURGAON • HANOI • HO CHI MINH CITY • HONG KONG • ISTANBUL • JAKARTA • KUALA LUMPUR • LONDON • MANILA • MELBOURNE • NANJING • NEW DELHI • OSAKA • PARIS • PERTH • SEOUL • SHANGHAI • SHENZHEN • SINGAPORE • SUZHOU • SYDNEY • TIANJIN • WUHAN • WUXI • CHENNAI (2014) • AL KHOBAR (2015) • FRANKFURT (2015) • RIYADH (2014)
wordvietnam.com | August 2014 Word | 35
hanoi what s on WHO IS WILLIAM ONYEABOR? Cama ATK knows there’s a good chance you’ve never heard of William Onyeabor, but as the 1970s and 1980s icon of Nigerian funk music, they’re aiming to change all that. On Thursday, Aug. 7, the entire night is dedicated to the founder of Nigerian electro-afro-funk — whose history is made all the more mysterious by his vanishing act in the 1980s after becoming a born-again Christian — with the screening on the documentary Fantastic Man, which digs into the past to find out what made William Onyeabor funk music royalty. With Saigon’s own Afrobeat expert Dan Lo behind the decks after the screening, there’s plenty on the docket to get everyone up to speed on the afrobeat icon. The screening of Fantastic Man followed by music by Dan Lo comes to Cama ATK, 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi on Thursday, Aug. 7. The event kicks off at 8pm. Entrance is VND50,000
THE BEST OF THE SHORTS Goethe Institut is celebrating the best of international short film from Aug. 8 to Aug. 9 with the Berlinale Shorts Festival. With 10 short films selected from the renowned International Film Festival of Berlin, Hanoi will be treated to silver screen gems from the other side of the globe. The festival’s mixture of documentaries, fantasy and drama shorts do in a quarter of the time what many feature length films fail to do, and for only two days, are on the big screen for the cultural capital to behold. Hanoi’s Berlinale Shorts Festival kicks off on Aug. 8 at 7pm, and continues through to the following evening. Screenings will take place at Goethe Institut, 56–58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh. Visit goethe.de for more information. Screenings are free
TEE-HEE IN TAY HO Comedy of the international stand-up variety is coming thick and fast to Hanoi, with the latest installment taking place on Friday Aug. 8 at The House of Son Tinh. With guest headliner, Gary Jackson, flying in from Hong Kong, also on stage will be local gagsters Alastair Hill, Tien Dung, Minh Ha Pham, Long Le, Nick Sando and comedic magician Rockstar Alex. The show kicks off at 8pm at The House of Son Tinh, 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi. The event is presented by the Hanoi Comedy Collective
HANOI SOUNDWALK In 2013, Hanoi Soundwalk was the first location-based audio tour of its kind to run not just in Hanoi, but in Asia. Using a smartphone app, a map of sounds and GPS, the soundwalk is a personal, smartphone-led tour of the city by headphones that takes audio tourists around Hanoi’s sites, but with a difference. As well as the visual element, the tour is given depth thanks to sounds of Hanoi’s hidden past, stories by local residents, ambient environmental sounds conjuring a different space and time, and music performed by unseen musical troupes. At the end of this year Hanoi Soundwalk will return to the capital but with a twist — the
organisers of this cultural affair are taking it to Denmark with not just one but two cities coming under the audio radar — Hanoi and Copenhagen. With support already garnered from the Danish Embassy and the Danish Composers Association, additional funding is presently being sought online through a crowdfunding campaign. To help give this unique cultural experience a second life, simply go to j.mp/soundwalk-igg. There’s a video explaining the Soundwalk, information about what perks you can receive, and instructions on how to donate. For further information email hello@soundwalkproject.com or contact Van on 0979 833168
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A MONTH FOR FOODIES
POSITIVE MASS
Hanoi Cooking Centre is all about getting Hanoi’s taste buds invigorated, and the month of August is no different. On Thursday, Aug. 7 at 6pm, the tastes of the Middle East are being showcased with an exclusive Middle Eastern dinner for US$24 (VND504,000). Then, on Saturday, Aug. 23 at 3.30pm, the kids can try their hand at cooking up something other than trouble with a kid’s cooking class. It’s a chance for them to put their summer to good use — in the kitchen and whipping up something scrumptious. Hanoi Cooking Centre is located at 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi and online at hanoicookingcentre.com
The monthly bike ride inspired by Critical Mass that has reached 300 cities worldwide continues this August on Friday Aug. 29 at 8pm. Titled Positive Mass or Dap Cho Suong, the ride will pedal off in Hanoi at St. Joseph’s Cathedral on Nha Tho / Nha Chung. From there the cyclists will traverse the streets of the capital en masse, reclaiming what many believe is rightfully theirs — a city devoid of motorbikes, cars and trucks. Now wouldn’t that be something! Everyone is welcome to join free of charge. Simply turn up at the allotted time and date. For further information go to thbc.vn
SUMMER VIBE(RATIONS) NOTTING HILL CARNIVAL GOES EAST Cama ATK isn’t content to let London’s Notting Hill Carnival — one of the world’s biggest street carnivals and celebrations of Caribbean culture — go by without a celebration of their own. Welcoming Skank the Tank Soundsystem to bring the noise on Saturday, Aug. 23, the CAMA crew is creating the sights, sounds and tastes of the Caribbean in the Far East. Get ready for a full night of reggae, dancehall, calypso, cumbia, drum ‘n bass and dubstep. Hanoi’s own Notting Hill Carnival featuring Skank the Tank soundsystem comes to Cama ATK, located at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung on Saturday, Aug. 23 from 8pm
The biggest outdoor event this summer in Hanoi is coming to an unlikely location just 20 minutes drive from the Old Quarter — Pottery Village Resort, just past Thanh Tri Bridge on the ‘other side’ of the river. And although the Bat Trang venue is serene by day, the 24-hour Vibration Hanoi Summer Party kick off on Saturday Aug. 9 is set to change that come nightfall. With a lakeside BBQ, plenty of bia hoi and a full menu of cocktails, the organisers are also promising a host of surprises beyond sundown. Brave summer party souls are in for something awesome if they stick around. They could even party all night. Hanoi’s Vibration Summer Party takes place at Pottery Village Resort (Minh Hai Resort) on Saturday Aug. 9. Bus services to the location from Spy Bar are available, and advanced tickets are VND100,000 including two free drinks. For more info, email vibrationhanoi@gmail.com or call 0978 101429. Minh Hai Resort is located at Thuan Ton, Trau Quy, Hanoi, just outside Bat Trang Village
hanoi Just In
IN THE VAULT
THE INVASION HAS STARTED And no, we’re not talking an alien invasion here, although rewind a decade or so and just the very concept would have made the below sea-level foundations of Hanoi shake to the core. Yes, for all those image savvy but not overly choosy coffee drinkers out there among you, it’s the long-awaited (or decried?) arrival of Starbucks. It’s not just one store that has landed here — the first outlet open(n)ed at the end of July at 32
Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem — but three almost all at once. Yes, three. Get it? These guys are here in force, looking to make an impact. That means Hoan Kiem Lake has got its very own dose of American coffee culture (59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem) as has the Hai Ba Trung area (314 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung). So to all you Hanoians out there, the world of Starbucks awaits you. Unless you prefer your ca phe den da with a nice dose of egg in it.
Luong Van Mao is not gone, and the opening of Hanoi’s newest underground club The Vault is proof. The man behind Mao’s Red Lounge and The Coach House is back with a new addition to Hanoi’s nightlife — just a stone’s throw from Truc Bach Lake. With a fresh lineup of new music, DJs and cocktails, the aim is to make The Vault into something of an up-and-coming alternative dance hub, with a fusion of techno, drum 'n bass, house, garage, reggae, dancehall and, strangely, the promise of yodeling in with the mix. Designed with a distinct underground vibe, The Vault has the personality of a basement dance party, with plenty of room on the dance floor and a selection of upcoming live acts to fill their event calendar. After it’s opening in mid-July, The Vault continues their grand opening extravaganza with free beer from 9pm to 10pm every night. So get there early... sic. The Vault is at 18 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
EDEN BAR
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bashes take place every alternate Saturday. Red River Sessions is slated in for Aug. 2 and Aug. 16, while Excite will be taking over the festivities on Aug. 9 and Aug. 23. With the first Excite party attracting more than 1,500 people and with some pretty big things (and DJs) in the pipeline, Eden is one to watch. Eden is at Ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi (get onto the alley and follow the signs). For more information check out their Facebook page — facebook.com/edengargen
Photos by Hair of the Dog
Set outdoors down Ngo 264, Au Co and close to the Tay Ho end of the Red River, Eden is the latest events venue to grace the capital, but this time in a garden space with a marquis, a stage, a BBQ area and onehelluva sound system. It’s a concept that has already been attracting the punters thanks to two huge party nights that have been running concurrently — Excite and Red River Sessions. Bringing in DJs, fireshows, magic and a 24-hour food service, the rave-like
wordvietnam.com | August 2014 Word | 39
overscene hANOI
Summer Sock Hop @ Hanoi Rock City
Photos by David Harris A taste of the 1950s and 1960s descended on HRC courtesy of live performances from Evil Priestley and The Electric Yard Dogs together with DJs spinning era-themed tunes
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If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look.
fussball fun
Photos provided by the French Embassy The French Embassy staged the World Cup in miniature in Tay Ho with fussball, table tennis and of course the real thing, something called soccer
Opening Night @ The Vault Photos by Julie Vola Bar owner Mao, soon to be known as the chairman, extended his empire to the Truc Bach / Ho Tay area with the opening of his new underground nightclub, The Vault
hanoi
august 2014 MEET THE AUTHOR
B
ookworm’s biggest goal is to get the city of Hanoi reading, but for the next night of their Meet the Author series, featuring author Di Li and poet Dick Gebuys, they’ll be going for less reading, and more talking.
SUMMER VIBRATIONS PARTY
A
little journey outside of the capital to Bat Trang can bring great things — and we’re not just talking pottery. For the summer months, that means plenty of bia hoi, music and poolside vibes. AUG. 9 — MINH HAI RESORT
AUG. 6 — HANOI COOKING CENTRE
01 friday
11 Monday
screening OF Paulette. @ l’espace, 8pm vieT priDe 2014: together. @ goethe institut from 5.45pm. events run until aug. 3. go to vietpride.info for details
12 Tuesday
02 saturday khanh ly live cOncerT. @ ncc, 8pm reD river sessiOns. @ eden hanoi. go to facebook.com/edengargen for details
03 sunday vieT priDe 2014: TOgeTher bike rally anD Flash MOb. starting at giang vo lake, 9am, with a party at The american club from 11am
04 monday 05 tuesday 06 wednesday
singapOrean cuisine prOMOTiOns. @ sheraton hanoi hotel. runs until aug. 31
13 Wednesday 14 Thursday 15 Friday
MeeT The auThOr: Di li anD Dick gebuys in cOnversaTiOn. @ hanoi cooking centre, 7pm MidsuMMer Night’s dreaM. @ hanoi Opera house, 8pm
07 thursday a nighT aT The Opera: puccini aT The cinéMaThèQue. @ hanoi cinémathèque, 22a hai ba Trung, 7pm MiDDle easTern FeasT. @ hanoi cooking centre, 6pm WhO is WilliaM OnyeabOr. @ caMa aTk, 8pm. screening followed by afrobeat tunes from DJ Dan lo
08 friday sTanD up cOMeDy: tee hee tay ho. @ house of son Tinh, 8pm
09 saturday vibraTiOn hanOi suMMer parTy. @ Minh hai resort, bat Trang. contact vibrationhanoi@gmail.com or call 0978 101429 for info
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le Quyen & Quang le live cOncerT. @ iec, 8pm Night for soul. @ lounge 83, Movenpick. 7pm to 9pm every Friday
16 Saturday reD river sessiOns. @ eden hanoi. go to facebook.com/edengargen for details
17 Sunday picknic elecTrOnic. @ softwater, 3pm to 9pm
To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordvietnam.com by no later than August 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo
NOTTING HILL CARNIVAL POSITIVE MASS
L
ondon gets a lot of things, but this year, Hanoi is claiming the city’s biggest street carnival and celebration of Caribbean culture all for themselves. Skank the Tank Soundsystem will be bringing the grooves.
W
hen it comes to nighttime biking, we can all agree that it’s more fun with a friend. For Positive Mass, make that a hundred friends. You could even choose to do the ride naked! Well, maybe not.
AUG. 23 — CAMA ATK
AUG. 29 — ST. JOSEPH’S CATHEDRAL
18 monday
25 Monday
19 Tuesday
26 Tuesday
20 Wednesday
27 Wednesday
21 Thursday
28 Thursday
live perFOrMance: JenniFer Whennen anD Jean cansTanTinescO. @ Thbc, 8pm
22 Friday
29 Friday
JaMaica bOlerO. @ Madake, 10pm till late pOsiTive Mass cycle riDe. @ st. Joseph’s cathedral, 8pm
30 saturday a Musical JOurney WiTh pianisT anne chaMberlain anD guesTs. @ goethe institut, 7pm
31 sunday
23 Saturday exciTe. @ eden hanoi. go to facebook.com/edengargen for details nOTTing hill carnival WiTh skank The Tank. @ caMa aTk, 8pm kiD’s cOOking class. @ hanoi cooking centre, 3.30pm
24 Sunday picknic elecTrOnic. @ softwater, 3pm to 9pm spanish MOvies. @ Thbc. every sunday from 7.30pm. Free entrance
31 sunday picknic elecTrOnic. @ softwater, 3pm to 9pm
wordvietnam.com | August 2014 Word | 43
in the papers THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS
HOANG SA ARCHIPELAGO (VIETNAM)
TRUONG SA ARCHIPELAGO (VIETNAM)
TYPHOON RAMMASUN WREAKS CONTINUED HAVOC Following Typhoon Rammasun, which swept through northern Vietnam on Jul. 19, northern provinces in Vietnam suffered a surge of heavy rain, flooding and landslides. The weather and its consequences claimed the lives of 24 people in July, with secondary hazards like landslides, lightning and rain ramping up enormous costs in property loss. Damage to more than a hundred hectacres of farmland, houses, canals, roads and electricity has wreaked havoc on
infrastructure in the area. Roads through the Chinese border, including in the province of Ha Giang, suffered the greatest damage, which is expected to effect trading and transportation through the region. Traffic congestion has also reached new levels, with road blockages through northern provinces common. As of Jul. 22, total damage throughout the region was estimated at VND2 billion.
HEALTH CONCERNS FOR VIETNAM Japanese encephalitis and head-footmouth disease have proven themselves to be a recurring problem in Vietnam, with cases of Japanese encephalitis over the past six months spreading to 31 regions, and affecting 325 people including five fatal cases. To date, 17 percent of patients originate from central areas in Vietnam, and 65 percent from northern Vietnam. Nearly 20 percent of reported cases were children as of the beginning of the year, with recent rates having fallen to nine percent. Though Danang is not a hotspot for Japanese encephelitis, parents in the area have recently rushed children to the Danang Preventative Health Centre for vaccination following reported cases in other areas. Currently, some 200 children are vaccinated every day. Besides Japanese encephilitis, instances of hand-foot-mouth disease have increased by nine percent this year, affecting 2,000 people nationwide. An estimated 70 percent are from the southern region, but 12 new provinces have recently reported cases including Lam Dong, Bac Kan, Binh Phuoc, Nam Dinh and Phu Tho.
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AWARD-WINNING BEACHES Central Vietnam is enjoying the travel spotlight this month, with two beautiful beaches stealing two spots in the Top 25 Best Beaches In Asia category in the 2014 Travelers’ Choice Award on popular travel site Trip Advisor. The website added Cua Dai beach in Hoi An and Non Nuoc beach in Danang
onto the list, alongside other scenic beaches around Asia. Non Nuoc beach was described as ‘quiet, clean and white' on Trip Advisor, while Cua Dai beach was celebrated as a locale for seafood. Both were cited as best to visit during the months between February and August.
in the papers
HANOI INTRODUCES AIRPORT SLEEP PODS Following a recent flurry of delayed or cancelled flights, Hanoi’s Noi Bai International Airport has taken matters into their own hands with the introduction of futuristic sleep pods in the terminal. The 14 new pods measure only four square meters and three meters tall, with some intended as double sleepers.
Fees for single rooms are set at VND210,000 for the first three hours and VND1.3 million for an entire day — a small price to pay for a comfortable place to sleep off lengthy delays. Double rooms’ fees are higher, but include luxurious details like WiFi connection, wardrobes, complimentary water and snacks.
CENTRE OF ATTENTION
EVERYBODY LOVES FREE HUGS Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Nha Trang have a little more to smile about as of last month, with International Free Hugs Day taking on new popularity in the Vietnamese cities. Although the celebratory day marked its third year in the country, new attention has made International Free Hugs Day last month a great reason to
smile. Most recently, over 300 people celebrated Free Hugs Day in July, with a gathering at Ho Chi Minh City’s Tao Dan Park in District 1. On the day, small groups congregated at public spaces like Notre Dame Cathedral, Ben Thanh Market and the Reunification Palace.
The central city of Danang — which already boasts a plethora of industrial parks, export processing zones and economic zones — has recently seen even more promise in development and economics, with 23 domestic and foreign investment projects kicking off in the coastal city as of the 23rd of last month. The investments are estimated at US$310 million, approximately VND6.51 billion. Nearby provinces are also enjoying major economic upturns with new projects. Binh Thuan and Ninh Thuan provinces have recently joined the Development Coastal Centre Region Group (DCCRP), and together plan to build tourism centres, wind and solar power plants in the region. This comes on the heels of Ninh Thuan’s current nuclear power plant project. Of the 943 projects in the central region, 775 are foreign direct investments, with total capital of over US$1.3 billion (VND273 billion).
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Insider
TECH SAVVY MONKS // EMBRACE OR ERASE // THE ELEMENTS OF STYLE // THE CITY IN MIND // VO TRONG NGHIA: BUILDING A WORLD FOR TREES // BUILDING A BRAND // THE SAIGON SOUND // ALL THE JAZZ // THE 'WORD CUP' OF WINGS // BREAKING THE FAST // MYSTERY DINER HANOI // STREET SNACKER HANOI // FASHION // HIKING CALIFORNIA // BANH MI IN DC // THE MOUNTAIN VALLEY // DESTINATION ZERO PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY
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Arts
PHOTOGRAPHY INTERNATIONAL
Tech Savvy Monks In the oldest pagoda in Siem Reap, the monks are bridging a gap between tradition and the modern world. Photos by Dominic Stafford
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hen British-born Dominic Stafford sent in an email with a subject line including the words “tech savvy monks”, we were intrigued. Regardless of the branch of Buddhism — the two main strands of the religion are Theravada and Mahayana — monks have a vital place in Southeast Asian society. In countries like Thailand and Cambodia, spending a period as a monk is seen as a rite of passage. Buddhism is at the centre of society. In Vietnam, the likes of Thich Quang Duc, who self-immolated in protest against the war, have been a mobilising force for peace and tradition — Buddhism has been one of the few constants over 150 years of turbulence and change. Yet, monks using technology? It’s not that they’re prohibited from embracing the
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modern world. Far from it — in Vietnam you often see monks driving motorbikes. But the monks photographed by Dominic live in Wat Bo Pagoda in Siem Reap, and are Theravada monks. In the Theravada tradition, monks are not allowed to have worldly possessions. “I have spent a lot of time within Wat Bo over the last six months,” explains Dominic. “The monks there are particularly friendly, modest and a little more respectful than at other pagodas. I [now have] a great bunch of friends. “I found it amusing when I was first added on Facebook by one of them, and that moment triggered the interest into the subtle changes that modern monkhood is going through. Most of Wat Bo is covered by Wi-Fi, and many [of the monks] have an old laptop under the bed.” Thus Dominic had his idea, to photograph
the monks embracing the modern world and in particular, its technology. Most of the photos are natural, although on occasion the monks do insist on robing up properly prior to Dominic taking shots. “I believe that many rules are there to be broken in this region,” he adds, “and within a pagoda is no exception. The monks are aware of what is expected of them, and behave accordingly where it really matters — but in response to my questioning of phones, a lot of laughter breaks out! They claim to be rather bored at times, and are also keen on communicating with family back home.” And thus an age-old tradition is bridging an important gap between itself, the modern world and the rest of society. To see more of Dominic’s work, go to dominicstafford.co.uk
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insider
MANY FACES
HCMC
The Bamboo Man
From product and furniture designer to one of the people behind The Bike Shop in Saigon’s District 2, James Wolf’s career has been as flexible as the material he uses — bamboo. Words by Nick Ross. Photo by Kyle Phanroy
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ow does someone specialising in bamboo end up in bicycles? It’s the question I put to James Wolf as we sit down in the office above The Bike Shop in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 2. An industrial design graduate from the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD), James first arrived in Vietnam in 1995 after an apprenticeship in Japan with a master woodworker. Having spent his youth in the US “building stuff, renovating houses, making boats and then studying industrial design, product design and furniture design”, he was looking for a new challenge. “I was a bit of an environmentalist,” he says, “and I wanted to be considerate with what I did with wood. As I learned about bamboo as a sustainable alternative, I got hooked.” The allure of Vietnam was in part due to the availability of raw materials. There are around 2,000 different species of bamboo of which 56 are found in Vietnam. One species, tam vong, which is native to Ho Chi Minh City and a surrounding area of 100km, was particularly good for building. The other allure was the skilled Vietnamese labour, who James says “know how to craft things and are patient”. However, the direction change occurred when he attended the International Bamboo Congress in Bali. At the event he met a businessman, Doug Lewis, who had already set up a bamboo factory in Vietnam. “He had a board under his arm, like a dimensioned board, out of bamboo,” recalls James. “And I said, ‘That’s like wood.’ And he said, ‘It’s bamboo.’ It was amazing. It was the first time I’d seen wood made from bamboo.” James’s interest was so piqued he started to ask questions — How is this applicable to making furniture? What’s its rate of expansion and contraction, its hardness? What’s its density, specific gravity and stability? Doug replied, “You know what James, I don’t know. But you’re the kind of person [who wants to find out]. You should come and work with me so when people ask these questions we can answer them and find out if we can use this as a wood replacement.”
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On the second day he arrived in Vietnam, James began working with tam vong at Doug’s factory, to see what potential there was in bamboo.
Boo Cycles Over the following years a number of projects fell James’s way including the construction of the first Allez Boo on the corner of De Tham and Pham Ngu Lao — the spot now occupied by Highlands Coffee. He was also involved in the building of Bamboo Village, a number of projects in Mui Ne and the construction of pre-fabricated bamboo houses that were exported to Hawaii. It was after meeting his wife, Le Duy Lam, that he branched out again. Having worked for other people for a number of years, the couple decided to forge their own path. The pair built their own bamboo factory. “We didn’t have anything lined up,” says James. “So I just went into design and prototyping, and I designed a few things that I really wanted to do. One of them was bike frames. At the start up time of our factory I made bamboo children’s toys and bike frames. I had no customers. It was development. A calling.” Supported by his wife who owns and manages the bamboo factory and bamboo plantations, and allows James to “pursue [his] creative passions and get them fulfilled”, the idea for building bike frames came from spending time online. “I noticed that more and more people around the world were making bamboo bike frames,” he says. “I know the strength of bamboo. The engineering data — strength versus weight — the durability, the resilience of bamboo. When I saw the trend I saw the possibility.” But James also knew that he wanted to aim high. And from the beginning he decided he wanted to make the highest level of bike frame there is, one that could compete in professional, elite bike racing. “I wanted to show it in the ring racing up against what people think currently is the highest tech thing — moulded carbon fibre.” With his first prototypes completed he contacted a couple of bike makers in the
States. One of them, Nick Frey — who together with Drew Haugen is now his business partner in Boo Bicycles — was interested. A pro racer as well as a businessman, Nick took one of James’s prototypes and in 2009 entered it in a race. He finished number one on the podium. “I was stunned,” says James. But the victory also gave him a well-needed “kick up the arse”. Rather than resting on his laurels he realised now was time to start learning his new trade — bicycles. “I wasn’t knowledgeable about bicycles at the level that pros use them,” he says. “I had to learn a lot. And that’s what led to the bike shop here. At a certain point I became so knowledgeable about [the industry] that people here were like, you know what, we live in District 2, there’s no bike shops here, why don’t you open one?” In 2013 The Bike Shop was born.
Poor Man’s Lumber Despite his success with bamboo and the fact that it’s a viable sustainable alternative to wood, James is the first to admit the difficulties he faces working with this material. “It’s a very challenging material, but I like that,” he says. “I’ve been trying to see what I can do with it, to elevate it from its poor man’s lumber status.” The problem is image — bamboo is connected with poverty. As James points out, “If you made a map of the world of poverty and overlaid it with a map of the world of where bamboo is, it’s the same map.” Despite being really good for cyclo-cross — in 2013 two members of the US national cyclocross team were on Boo Bicycles — bamboo is also not associated with the kind of materials used in sport. “The problem is the aesthetic that goes with hi-tech,” he explains. “As soon as some people see ‘natural’, they just don’t believe in it. So the solution is to not make it look like bamboo. You just black it out.” He adds: “It’s people’s hang up with the material. It’s sad to think that humans believe they can do things better than nature. Bamboo’s been a successful composite for 400 million years. It’s not a fad. It’s stuck around for a long, long time.”
Information James Wolf creates two lines of bikes — Boo Bicycles and the part bamboo, part aluminium range, Aluboo. Both are available at T HE B IKE S HOP (250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Ho Chi Minh City) and are custom-built to order. For more information go to thebikeshopvn. com or boobicycles.com.
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insider
INSIDER
NATIONAL
Embrace or Erase The fine line between urban renewal and gentrification is a constant subject of debate, as our cities move forward into the 21st century. Here we look at two options — embrace the past by fitting the modern city alongside it, or erase it to make way. Words by Seamus Butler. Additional reporting by Nick Ross. Photos by Kyle Phanroy and Nick Ross
T
o many, a city is defined as a permanent human settlement. Yet most of the people, businesses, buildings and even roads are always changing. It’s a contradiction. As city dwellers we develop connections to the places we live in, affinities for the established. But the debate between moving forward and cherishing the past is a subject of constant tension. With the demolition of the Art Deco-cum-Internationalist building at 213 Dong Khoi in Saigon’s District 1 and last year’s rise, fall and demolition of Zone 9 in Hanoi, it has become even more apparent that Vietnam’s cities are flexing to make way for this new prosperity. Urban renewal is a practice that brings both praise and trepidation. Rejuvenation of
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a city, expansion of commercial endeavours and improvement of critical infrastructure like water supply, sanitation and drainage are obvious pluses. Yet gentrification and forced relocation cast ugly shadows over the benefits. “As architects we’re required to design against all manner of catastrophes,” Archie Pizzini, co-director of HTA+pizzini Architects, said in an interview for our cover story. “We design against earthquakes, we design against typhoons, we design against fires, we design against floods — all these things we design against. But the thing that destroys more buildings than anything else is prosperity. When prosperity hits a country, that’s when you lose the architecture.”
Embrace 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City An impressive Art Deco apartment block lays caked with soot, filth and pollution. Sitting on red plastic chairs, a tapping foot rests impatiently on the side of a steel nuoc mia cart, a flower-patterned attired woman waits for a customer. A stripped down Honda Cub drives out of the alley next to her exhaling grey and black smoke. Passing inside is a hipster covered in tattoos, locking his neon yellow fixed gear bicycle as three photographers and a lighting technician descend the stairs, snapping photos of a famous Vietnamese actress. This is the quintessence of Saigon — beautiful rawness that never stops moving. Contained within are stores and shops executed in complete contrast to the space in which it resides, the quirky Other Person Café and tranquil Mockingbird Café keeping idlers caffeinated, a tattoo place and several vintage stores providing the cool kid bona fides. 14 Ton That Dam oozes character, as a mixed-use space of families and commerce keeps an aging building relevant.
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Erase 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City With copied canvases stacked awkwardly in the entrance, this 1920s building is itself made up of layers, progress stacked over previous space. As you wind up the staircase, an occasionally working lift climbs with you. The wrought-iron filigree of the lift’s protective walls let the light from the angular windows fall in erratic patterns. According to Saigon historian Tim Doling, this building was intended for upmarket occupants and contained several important offices. Now, the upmarket intention has faded with age and the structure has adapted to house Vietnam’s first cooking class workshop — the Vietnam Cookery Center — as well a host of other fashion, art and café businesses. This building is a work of art, yet will soon be a pile of rubble. The Catinat building, as it is known, will soon suffer the same fate that its predecessors experienced. A repurposed brand new structure containing — oh the irony — upmarket business, offices and apartments, among other facilities will be taking over where the history left off.
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Embrace, and then Erase Zone 9, 9 Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi The ultimate example of embracing the past happened with Zone 9 last year. Born out of a need to find good quality space in central Hanoi, a converted former pharmaceuticals factory that had been repossessed by the bank seemed like the perfect answer. Suddenly there was an unimaginable volume of space available, crying out for takers. Even the rent was cheap. With five buildings, some built in colonial times, and others added later when Soviet cubism was de rigeur, a few pioneers such as the crew behind Barbetta, the Nha San Collective and the indomitable Nguyen Qui Duc of Tadioto fame rented warehouselike parts of the former factory and began to build. What they created was special. At once Bohemian, avant-garde and rebellious, it unleashed a frontier-like spirit that brought in other business owners, some with grand ideas and some without. But it worked. Driven by civil society, this was the new cultural centre of Hanoi, the venue where all things creative could happen and the city’s new breed of worldly under-40s could unleash their desires. But it was too good and too controversial, and injuries due to unsafe construction and a fire that killed six put paid to the grand scheme. In December, Zone 9 was officially closed down. In the end, the issues that doomed this reappropriation weren’t entirely due to its structural shortcomings. For people like Nguyen Qui Duc, there was also the issue of working with other people in a space that was defined by their ambitions — a constant source of stress and concern. As he said when the space was closed down, “I wish I had the courage to let go, to be simple and not jump at all the opportunities. I wish I had thought more about the risks I recently took at Zone 9.” Like many of the other businesses there, Tadioto has since reopened on another site — a restored colonial villa on Tong Dan, close to the Hanoi Opera House. And as for now, Zone 9 lies vacant, waiting for its next run-in with history.
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Cover Story
The Elements of
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W
hen we decided to take on an architecture focus for our cover story, we wanted to avoid the quick-hit approach. “Every piece of infrastructure — every building — is on a trajectory,” says urban explorer Michael Cook in a conversation with BLDGBLOG’s Geoff Manaugh. “You’re experiencing it at just one moment in its very extended life.”
Style
This is the problem with looking at architecture, at the buildings that surround us — we tend to see them at one point in time, without their historical context and without any notion of the grand or not so grand ideas that were behind their creation. In doing so, we forget the problems its architects were trying to solve, and what those solutions evolved into. “Even among explorers,” Cook says, “we don’t pay enough attention to process.”
Our cities’ skylines are like libraries of ambition and idealism, some in service of their particular moment in time, some with guiding wisdom for future generations. Without this context, we’re writing words best published in guidebooks. Or, as Cook says later in the interview, “We’re taking postcard shots of the sublime.” In putting this cover story together, we attempted to avoid that mistake through taking a closer look at the buildings that make up Vietnam’s two great metropolises. Our cities look like they do for specific reasons, reasons that are connected with everything that makes up the identity of Vietnam. As Manaugh says at a different point, “Architecture [at its most fundamental level] is literature, poetry and mythology all in one.”
Words by Jura Cullen, Katie Jacobs and Ed Weinberg
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Saigon
Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica (Ben Nghe, Q1) — succeeding the first wooden churches of the new colony, the cathedral was erected in 1880, with materials imported from France
“Saigon is a city of clean lines,” reads one critique of Saigon’s modernist architecture. But to confused locals it’s anything but. Ed Weinberg traces the evolution of the Saigon style, through colonial rise and fall, building booms and busts. Photos by Kyle Phanroy and Francis Xavier. Infographic by Vu Ha Kim Vy
Reunification Palace (135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1) — a renovation of the bombingdamaged Norodom Palace, Ngo Viet Thu’s creation is an ecstatic peak in Saigonese modernism
The Archbishop’s Residence (180 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3) — built in 1900, it stands next to what many claim is the oldest house in Saigon, Tan Xa Palace, supposedly dating from 1790
EARLY COLONIAL INDOCHINE ERA SAIGONESE HIGH MODERN SOVIET MODERNIST CONTEMPORARY
Ho Chi Minh City Hall (cnr. Le Thanh Ton and Nguyen Hue, Q1) — a monument to the infighting that would cause the French capital to leave Saigon for Hanoi in 1902, the City Hall was first planned in 1871 but not completed until 1909
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General Sciences Library (69 Ly Tu Trong, Q1) — the second-largest library in Vietnam, it acts as headquarters for the 22 district libraries in the city. Home to a rich collection of French Indochine materials
Bitexco Financial Tower (2 Hai Trieu, Q1) — though it remains divisive in the architectural community, the 68-storey office tower has emerged as an icon of Saigon’s future
Hoa Binh Theatre (240-242 Ba Thang Hai, Q10) — Vietnam’s largest performing arts venue is the most impressive architectural undertaking of Saigon’s Bao Cap era, built in collaboration with the Soviets in 1985
Vinh Nghiem Pagoda (339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3) — the 6,000sqm pagoda is the first in Vietnam to be built in traditional style with concrete infrastructure
Union Square (171 Dong Khoi, Q1) — built on the bones of the ‘Art Gecko’ Eden Centre, the new Vincom draws its inspiration from Paris’s Galeries Lafayette 213 Dong Khoi (Q1) — the most recent symbol of old Saigon to be demolished, this 1930-built Art Deco-cum-Internationalist masterpiece came down in May to make way for a City Hall extension
Municipal Theatre (7 Lam Son Square, Q1) — borrowing the flamboyant style of Paris’s Opéra Garnier, the Saigon Opera House replaced the first theatre, which was on the site of the Caravelle Hotel
Museum of Fine Arts (97 Pho Duc Chinh, Q1) — constructed for the Société Immobilière Hui Bon Hoa, the company of the late ‘King of Saigon Real Estate’, it’s also the hypothetical home of Saigon’s most famous ghost
Saigon Central Post Office (2 Cong Xa Paris, Q1) — despite Wikipedia accounts to the contrary, the Post Office was not built by Gustave Eiffel, but rather two other starchitects of the colonial age, Alfred Foulhoux and Henri Vildieu
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T h e E l e m e n t s o f
Saigon
The story of Saigonese architecture starts with the arrival of the French. In their first southern offensive, colonial forces that had been repelled from Hue targeted the Citadel of Gia Dinh. They captured it in a matter of hours on Feb. 17, 1859 — it was a vulnerable square of Bien Hoa granite, brick and earth — and burned it to the ground less than a month later. This wasn’t the first time the Citadel of Gia Dinh had been burned to the ground. The structure the French overwhelmed in 1859 was dwarfed by its earlier incarnation, a 1790 construction built by a team of 30,000 labourers under the direction of French mercenary engineers, in the In the French Image Vauban style of military “The earliest French Colonial architecture architecture. The latter was built by engineers as well as version proved so stalwart architects, and in some cases by French its conquerors razed it military engineers,” says Archie Pizzini, completely after its capture, co-director of HTA+pizzini Architects out of frustration. Though (resorts, residences, both Galerie nothing remains of its fiveQuynhs). “Their aim was to build metre-high walls above structures representative of France, a ground, its disappeared technological leader of that era. There skeleton is still felt in the are examples of the latest innovation of roadmap of Saigon today. that time, such as early mass production techniques like the cast iron modular framing systems you can see in the L’Usine space on Dong Khoi. “The buildings are masterpieces of passive solar design, much more so than buildings built today — they had to be. The spaces were high-ceilinged, leaving a space for hot air to collect at the top so that inhabitants could reside in the lower, cooler area. There were generally attics, providing a buffer zone for heat at the top of the building so that the solar heat would heat the attic area and be largely discharged through attic ventilation without transferring its heat to the living spaces below.” Although these buildings were direct transplants from elsewhere in the French Empire, they prefigured the climatic innovations that would come with the Indochine and modernist eras. “[When the] French first came here, they actually used exactly the same things, the same elements they used in France,” says Alex Nguyen, associate director of Haysom Architects (villa designers and urban planners). At first relying on wooden kit houses
S ty l e
Early Colonial
shipped in from Singapore, the colony’s builders soon set about replicating the same structures they knew from home. The Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica owes something to the large brick-built churches in the MidiPyrénées region of France, and all its original building materials were imported from France. The wrought-iron arch of Rainbow Bridge, built in 1882 by the Compagnie des Établissements Eiffel, preceded Eiffel’s most famed metalwork by a scant five years. An 1881 engraving by Auguste Lepère shows a tree-lined city of pitched roof buildings that wouldn’t look out of place on the French Riviera. In 1887, French Indochina was formed, with Saigon as its first capital — it would be replaced by Hanoi in 1902. As the new colony grew prosperous people flocked to Saigon, and the city’s architecture began to adapt accordingly.
Noteworthy Buildings S AIGON N OTRE -D AME B ASILICA (Cong Xa Paris, Q1) — 1880
S AIGON C ENTRAL P OST O FFICE (Cong Xa Paris, Q1) — 1891
M UNICIPAL T HEATRE (7 Lam Son Square, Q1) — 1900
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Saigon Indochine Era
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I
Noteworthy Buildings
n 1920s Hanoi, Ernest Hébrard started fusing local and French architectural traditions into a M AJESTIC H OTEL homegrown style. Tasked with (1 Dong Khoi, Q1) — 1925 building the archaeology and ethnography museum that would (Art Deco in its original form) eventually become known as Hanoi’s MUSEUM OF VIETNAMESE HISTORY (SAIGON) National Museum of Vietnamese (2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1) — 1927 History, its seven-year construction M USEUM OF F INE A RTS ushered in the age of Indochine Style. (97 Pho Duc Chinh, Q1) — 1934 Festooned with shaded balconies and insulating double walls, Hébrard’s museum continued the trend of climatic innovation the French had spread through their hot-climate colonies the world over. But this iteration was distinctly Vietnamese. “It looks very romantic, very connected H é b r a rd ’ s i n f l u e n c e with nature. You see high ceilings, the trickled down to Saigon under wind comes through the house and you the aegis of the Indochina see water everywhere, trees everywhere. Architecture and Urbanism A lot of big windows.” Central Department, of which he would later be appointed The End of an Era director. In 2011, The Independent wrote an article Tr a n H o a n g Tru n g , bemoaning the loss of Indochine era director of TD Solutions and landmarks like the recently torn down architect behind ID Café, Eden Centre, titled The Fall of Saigon — By M2C and Zest Bistro, says of Demolition. American War era journo Carl this transitional architecture, Robinson wrote in a forum, “It’s an easy story to write — and a killer headline, of course — but I do think the reality is actually rather positive.” Two-and-a-half years on, Robinson seemed less emphatic. “Despite a recent economic downturn,” he wrote in a September 2013 Metropolis Magazine article on Ho Chi Minh City architecture, “the city is still in the midst of a massive facelift. Once it’s completed, no one it.” The pictures are still hanging knows if this one-time Pearl of the Orient on the walls of Cuc Gach Quan. will have any personality left.” Tran Binh Architects took more Many were deeply concerned by the than just pictures, however — May demolition of the 1930-built Art collecting all the doors, windows Deco-cum-Internationalist landmark at and metal elevator grills that 213 Dong Khoi. Thien Huong of Tran were salvageable. Together with Binh Architects (private residences, Cuc the bricks from a demolished Gach Quan) was one of the building’s French colonial building on Ly champions, and she remembers clearly Chinh Thang, they plan to build when she knew it was over. “One a new-old house, filled with the morning I drove by, and I saw they had aura these things hold in them. covered the building and I knew — oh it’s “It [will be] a place for everyone time, it’s happened.” who wants to see and live there,” With photographer Ngo Dinh Truc, the Huong says. team went through the building in March. What if the bricks of more of “We took pictures of every single house these revived sentinels are taken we could get in... the very beautiful stairs, and rearranged elsewhere? What the Art Deco style. You can never forget kind of aura would a whole city block of these new-old buildings give off? Would tourists and lonely poets search out this district of memory, and leave the anytown-Asia, glass-and-steel downtown barren at night, in search of Saigon’s old Indochine flair? Huong isn’t optimistic. “Those are the things that you will not find in 50 years,” she says. “It will be a very sweet and bitter memory.”
F
or most people, the styles associated with Saigon aren’t the ones tourists are directed to. For true Saigonese architecture, you have to look down the city’s alleys, at the unassuming multi-storey rowhouses that tower over both sides of the hem. “You see these modernist little rowhouses,” Archie Pizzini (HTA+pizzini Architects) says. “They’re really still beautifully sun-shaded, they still have a terrace up top, the windows are set back from the skin, there’s a balcony where you can get some breeze, and there’s usually a stairwell that goes all the way up — and above the top of the stairwell, the Weekend Review. “The same spatial roof is missing. So what it limitations apply as Hanoi: tall, narrow does is create a chimney houses on small blocks of land and effect. cheek-by-jowl building. But architects “As the hot air rises, in the south seem to have turned these it goes up through the restrictions to their advantage, using stairwell — and because basic modernist-influenced templates to it creates a low-pressure make the most of what they have.” system when it rises, it sucks In the same article, Ho Chi Minh Citythe cooler air in through the based architect Mel Schenck is quoted other spaces. So you get this as saying, “Modernist architecture as it thing where you’re getting evolved in Vietnam is well-suited to the rid of the hot air. And the tropical climate and the high density whole building works like of small lots [and] tied intimately to that, it’s a machine with no the everyday lives of the people. I moving parts. It’s a machine believe modernist architecture serves simply by placement.” as a cultural marker for the southern “Clean lines, less clutter Vietnamese... characterised by the wide and more creativity,” writes range of experimentation with colour, Helen Clark in Gulf News texture, lines, planes, materials and landscaping.” Pizzini sees it too. He says, “Saigon modernism had a decidedly more exuberant feel to it than the mainstream version did.” Saigon had arrived at its architectural identity, and it was as audacious as it was representative.
Saigon
Saigonese High Modern
to the brilliant Ngo Viet Thu — an École des Beaux-Arts-trained architect and innovative painter who would work into the The Palace that Thu Built Reunification era. The story of the Reunification Palace Mitchell Owens wrote in The is the story of Saigon’s architectural New York Times, “The palace evolution, and one of its pinnacles. that Thu built is deliriously Starting life as a colonial project, the glamorous, a lip-smacking mix former building on the grounds was a of Turandot melodrama and spectacular-if-samey work of French James Bond cool.” This past Colonial bric-a-brac by the architect December, when its chu nom and of the former Hong Kong City Hall. bamboo-inspired facade became Following a bombing by two dissident the canvas for a Vietnamese pilots of the southern air force, the history laser light show called commission for the overhaul was handed Allumeurs d’Images, that dynastic drama was on hand for well over 100,000 people to see. At the end of the article, Owens quotes Nguyen Xuan Oanh, a finance minister during the palace’s construction: “The history of Vietnam is the history of dynasties. When a new dynasty came in, it destroyed all that came before.” But Owens’s conclusion is slightly different. “At least, that’s what used to happen. The continued survival of the Reunification Palace is proof that some conquerors know an architectural triumph when they see one.”
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Noteworthy Buildings R EUNIFICATION P ALACE (135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1) — 1966
V INH N GHIEM P AGODA (339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3) — 1971
G ENERAL S CIENCES L IBRARY (69 Ly Tu Trong, Q1) — 1972
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Saigon Soviet Modernism
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P
Noteworthy Buildings
eace brought new challenges, and construction stopped for much of the next 20 years — until the building boom of the U NIVERSITY OF A RCHITECTURE 1990s. And with the shift in Vietnam’s (196 Pasteur, Q3) — 1972 direction came a change in the built (with subsequent structural additions) trajectory of the 100 years before. T HONG N HAT S TADIUM “The architects from Hanoi came (138 Dao Duy Tu, Q10) — 1975 here,” explains Alex Nguyen (Haysom Architects), “and they’ve all been trained H OA B INH T HEATRE by Soviets. At first they were shocked — (240-242 Ba Thang Hai, Q10) they see the 15-floor buildings, they’re — 1985 shocked, they see the [Reunification Palace], they’re shocked. They’re shocked by everything from Saigon. “And later, after the shock, they want to transform it and build it in the same way reference to the Stalinist style in Russia. they knew.” That style actually has two parts — Axel Korn of Korn it has first a modern [part], then it Architects (Crescent Mall, switched to Baroque. It’s really weird.” Thuong Dinh Plaza in Ho Chi Minh City was on an Hanoi) sees this moment as expansion curve at this time — from an the splintering of the city estimated 2 million people in 1975 to style. “Before,” he says, “the 4.6 million in 1995. Most of them were government buildings and from poorer rural areas, and they staked the private buildings were claim to whatever outskirt land they kind of in line. At that very could. point they fell apart. “You had this uncontrolled growth “There was a certain into the swamplands,” Korn says. style carried by government “There was no more city planning, they buildings, which you can just [took over] the land... They used the cheapest means possible to achieve the results they wanted to have. So instead of having a clay tile roof, they used sheet metal, instead of doing wood louvres, they used concrete.”
A Break
And it’s not just plaster — it’s concrete filling in the gaps, DIY replacing a niche craft. “After 1975, as I understand it,” Pizzini says, “nothing was built for 20 years. So that whole generation of craftsman, people who knew how to build at a very high level, died — they literally died out... and the whole idea of passing the knowledge of craftsmanship from generation to generation to generation [was] broken. “To me, what I see is that there was a lot of expertise here at one time, I mean an incredible amount, and suddenly it disappears in the reconstruction.” Korn sees this loss as the first step to the kaleidoscope of styles currently on display. “The sad thing,” he says, “is that before, Saigon had one style which you could really identify. So even though you had these [Soviet modernist] adventures building here and there, the dominant style was still French Colonial. And they created such a coherent image of the city. It survived until 1995, close to 2000. The real damage was done after that.”
The death of terrazzo in Saigon is the story of how the past gets left behind. First it’s everywhere, so much so that you’d never think you could miss it. And soon enough it’s gone. When people see its traces in 100 years — still in stairs, window ledges and courtyards everywhere — it will seem fantastic to them. “You look at some of the 1960s [and 1970s] buildings here,” Archie Pizzini (HTA+pizzini Architects) says, “with the pebble-wash and the terrazzo — badass construction quality. Just the top stuff that you can’t get anymore. And if you look at those buildings, there’s no cracks in them, very few cracks... In a lot of cases now, they’re covering it with a layer of plaster, which is totally banal.”
T
he past is gone — this you know every time you see the Bitexco Financial Tower breaking the skyline in the image of a lotus, with one helipadshaped petal. “Many contemporary buildings,” says Archie Pizzini (HTA+pizzini Architects), “completely ignore the context they’re built in, requiring increased energy use to remedy shortcomings built into the design from the start. Much of this comes from the globalised nature of design in the present era. Designers and clients conceive a building without ever attempting to understand its location and context. The results are often inappropriate. they fit to the space.” “A local friend voiced a In a21’s workspace, a tree grows great question one day as through two latticed wood levels. Over we were walking past the the years the house has had to adapt, Bitexco Tower — she asked sacrificing floorboards and light to the me, ‘But, what is it doing growth of the tree. here?’” “At first there was a lot of sunlight The way those on the here,” Toan says, “and when we stay vanguard of Vietnamese here” — he points to the long wooden architecture, such as worktable near the tree — “it’s still very Nghiem Dinh Toan of a21 bright. But this year, the tree [went] up studio (houses and resorts very high, and we had to change, we had of reclaimed wood, stone to adapt. and geometry), deal with “It depends on the condition of the this spatial nihilism is by space... People have to accept that.” creating their own rules. “The client chooses us Square-Metre Lust and we also choose the On the other hand, square-metre lust client,” Toan says. “We (trademark Archie Pizzini) doesn’t have to predict whether bend to trees. Born out of colonial tax laws based on linear frontage, not overall lot area, and exacerbated by the building boom of the 1990s — which saw property rates jump a thousandfold — this philosophy is driving Saigon’s skyline ever higher. Nowhere is this as stark as in District 7, overlooking fields of teetering rowhouse skyscrapers, set adjacent to empty lots. This is the type of logic driving Saigon out of balance. “You see a lot of these old rowhouses from the 1960s,” Pizzini says, “and people are going out onto the balcony and putting a sheet of glass right at the edge of the property line. A totally unprotected sheet of glass. Well what you’ve just done is you’ve created a
Saigon Contemporary Age
little microwave out there. Not only that, but the microwave is attached to the rest of your house.”
A Return
Like most post-colonial cities, there’s a confusion of styles here, looking like chaos to the untrained eye. There is a rejection of the colonial past and yet a longing for it, a push to stake out a new identity and yet no clear vision for it, and opportunistic middlemen everywhere you look. And in the middle of it all are the people these buildings should be designed for, trying to adapt to their built environment. Pizzini sees a beauty in this flexibility, and more sustainability than most contemporary constructions have to offer. “In Canada or the US,” he says, “a kitchen is its own room, a bedroom is its own room, a living room is its own room. In Vietnam it’s all the same room — what a fun concept! Especially if you’re talking about green design. Why don’t you just make the space you’ve got work harder?”
Noteworthy Buildings B ITEXCO F INANCIAL T OWER (2 Hai Trieu, Q1) — 2010
S TACKING G REEN (14 So 64, An Phu, Q2) — 2011
U NION S QUARE (171 Dong Khoi, Q1) — 2012
Hanoi
Since its foundation over 1,000 years ago, Hanoi’s architectural style has undergone some radical changes, but for those who look closely the core of the ancient city can still be seen. Jura Cullen and Katie Jacobs look through the dense hustle and bustle of Hanoi today to uncover where the city has been, and where it’s going. Photos by David Harris and Julie Vola. Infographic by Vu Ha Kim Vy
St Joseph's Cathedral (40 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem) — Hanoi’s neo-gothic cathedral is one of the oldest colonial buildings in Hanoi. Its construction on the site of an ancient Buddhist temple was a sign of the French expansion of power and influence across the city
Hanoi Museum (Pham Hung, Tu Liem) — built in 2010 to mark Hanoi’s 1,000th anniversary, Hanoi Museum relies on a method of sunshading claimed to derive from Vietnam’s cultural history — the inverted pyramid
Vietnam National University, Hanoi (19 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem) — originally the University of Indochine, this building fuses Art Deco with indigenous designs from Asian temples, it is one of Ernest Hébrard’s landmark Indochine Style buildings
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Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum (Huong Vuong, Ba Dinh) — opened to the public in 1975, the Mausoleum — a collaboration between Vietnamese and Russian architects — was symbolically located on Ba Dinh Square, where Ho Chi Minh read the Proclamation of Independence of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam on Sep. 2, 1945
Thang Long Citadel (19 Hoang Dieu, Ba Dinh) — The seat of power in northern Vietnam from 1010 to 1802, the citadel grounds are now home to a museum which includes entrance to the underground bunkers used by Ho Chi Minh and General Giap
Lotte Center (54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh) — due to be completed by September, the Lotte Center is one of Hanoi’s newest and highest skyscrapers. The façade of this 65-storey, glass-encased building has been designed to resemble a woman’s ao dai
Hanoi Railway Station (120 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem) — a perfect example of two periods coming together, the station was originally built during the French colonial period. But due to heavy bombing during the American War, the central section has been rebuilt in a Cubist Soviet style
Quan Thanh Temple (cnr. Quan Thanh and Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh) — founded in the 11th century and rebuilt numerous times over the last thousand years, this typical Taoist Den is famous for a huge black bronze statue of Tran Vu, said to protect Hanoi from evil spirits and invaders from the north
Soviet-Vietnamese Cultural Friendship Palace (91 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem) — after the original French exhibition hall was bombed during World War II, the new centre was a gift from the Soviet Union and based on a design used throughout the Soviet Bloc
State Bank of Vietnam (cnr. Ly Thai To and Le Lai, Hoan Kiem) — built in 1930 by Georges-André Trouvé as the Bank of Indochina, this large building is an imposing blend of Art Deco and International Style, as well as some Vietnamese motifs
PRE-COLONIAL VIETNAMESE EARLY COLONIAL TRANSITIONAL ARCHITECTURE AND INTERNATIONAL STYLE SOVIET-INFLUENCED ERA CONTEMPORARY
Hanoi Opera House (1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem) — the façade and interior may have been designed to mimic the Parisian style, but underground the Opera House is supported by bamboo foundations — a traditional Vietnamese technique that allows for slight foundational movement
Trang Tien Plaza (Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem) — mimicking French BeauxArts design from the 18th century, Trang Tien Plaza is a modern copy of Hanoi’s first department store, Magasins Godard — built on the same corner over a century ago
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Hanoi
T
he ancient city of Thang Long — ‘Rising Dragon’ — was founded by Emperor Ly Thai To in 1010. “The name Hanoi didn’t appear until after the Nguyen Dynasty attained power in 1802,” says Carol Howland in her book Hanoi of a Thousand Years. Ly Thai To situated his Thang Long Citadel and Royal Palaces facing south, on a northsouth axis in accordance with feng shui principles. The Citadel covered a massive area, originally extending east to the edge of the Old Quarter and west to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum, and was accessible through 24 gates. Today the North Gate — which bears the scars of “bringing their traditions and beliefs French cannon fire — along with them” explains Howland. The with the stone dragon stairs communities founded chua (pagodas and the imposing threededicated to Buddha), dinh (communal arched gate, are the only houses) and den (Taoist shrines to large remaining structures important historical figures and spirits) of the original Citadel. on their streets, and life continued much Religious Architecture as it had done in their villages. After the establishment of Spiritual sites remain one of the the Citadel, entire villages constants in an ever-changing city. moved to the area now “Much of the significance of Old Hanoi known as the Old Quarter, is iconic rather than strictly historical,” explains Professor William Logan, Vietnamese historian and author of the book Hanoi: Biography of a City. According to Logan, religious and ancestral buildings in Vietnam are periodically repaired, repainted and even rebuilt as a sign of respect. Quan Thanh Temple and Bach Ma Temple are two of the oldest temples that date back to the founding of the city. Bach Ma, in the heart of the Old Quarter, has been rebuilt and even moved numerous times since Ly Thai To first dedicated it to the white horse, a vision that became one of the guardians of the city. Quan Thanh, directly to the north of the citadel, is dedicated to Tran Vu, the Taoist guardian of the north. The temple is rich in Taoist symbols such as tigers, goldfish and dragons. The interior is adorned with poetry written in Chinese characters made of mother of pearl gleaming against dark wood. A huge four-ton black bronze statue of Tran Vu sits in the back, dating back to the 17th Century. Recent years have seen a revival in the appreciation of these ancient religious sites, and more and more temples and pagodas are being rebuilt and renovated around Hanoi.
Pre-Colonial Vietnamese
The Old Quarter The Old Quarter layout seen today took shape in the 15th and 16th centuries when according to Howland it was known as ‘36 streets’ for the 36 trade
guilds “that serviced the needs of the Citadel”. Streets were lined with shops and houses built in the narrow ‘tube’ house style still popular today. Due to the taxation on property frontage, façades extended only two to four metres, yet the buildings would stretch back for up to 60 metres. The houses, typically constructed of bamboo and wood, were usually only one storey to ensure no one could look down upon the Emperor. One of the few remaining 19th century buildings has been recently restored at 87 Ma May, where multiple peaked roofs and courtyards that bring light and breeze can be seen. By the 20th century, many tube houses were renovated and transformed to display French colonial façades.
Noteworthy Buildings T HANG L ONG C ITADEL (19 Hoang Dieu, Ba Dinh) — 1010
Q UAN T HANH T EMPLE (cnr. Quan Thanh and Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh) — 11th century
T UBE H OUSE (87 Ma May, Hoan Kiem) — mid-19th century
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Hanoi Early Colonial
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I
n 1887, Hanoi’s cityscape was on the cusp of a radical transformation. The regions which are now Vietnam and Cambodia had just been declared the Federation of Indochina, and within the next two decades Hanoi would become the capital of this Southeast Asian French empire. City plans spread south and westwards from the original military concession area, where early colonialists lived and worked along the eastern edge of the city. Infrastructure plans blossomed, and roads, tramways, drainage and sewerage systems were installed, draining the surrounding marshland The new villas, entertainment centres and utilising bricks and grand municipal buildings stood in and materials from the stark contrast to the simple, flat-roofed, Vietnamese city wall. narrow two-storey houses of the 1870s One of the earliest and 1880s. “Early colonial design was buildings of this age was basic,” explains Roman Szlam, Hanoi the neo-gothic St Joseph’s historian and cultural guide, “and many Cathedral. Completed buildings resembled architecture found in 1886 on the site of a in the British colonies of the time.” But large Buddhist temple, if Hanoi was to be the Paris of the East, the cathedral was a strong grand designs were needed. statement of the French assertion of power through The Grand Design the imposition of religious The turn of the century saw the belief. construction of major projects, such as the Hanoi Opera House and Metropole Hotel, built to mimic Paris and imprint the French culture and fashions of the time on Vietnam. The Opera House, a Beaux-Arts style building completed in 1911, was designed to reflect the opulent Palais Garnier in Paris. With imposing Doric and fluted Ionic columns, the soaring chandelier-adorned roof and velvet swathed galleries flanked by capitals of elaborately carved flowers and garlands, the Opera House is the epitome of French colonial architecture in Hanoi. As the population grew, neo-classical style villas lined the wide and shady boulevards of the French Quarter (between what is now Trang Thi and Tran Hung Dao) and around the citadel. From the mansard attic roofs and tall window shutters to fancy entrance porches and decorative stucco carvings and scrolls, these villas illustrated classical aspects of French design. “The early colonial buildings were completely unsuited to the Hanoi
Noteworthy Buildings H ANOI O PERA H OUSE (1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem) — 1911
S OUTHERN F RENCH V ILLA (49 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh) — circa. 1918
F ORMER R ESIDENCE OF THE G OVERNOR OF T ONKIN (Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem) — 1918
climate,” explains Szlam, “so people started including details, such as steeply pitched roofs with shady overhangs and strategically placed ventilation windows to keep the houses cool in summer.” In addition to this, the nostalgic residents built houses reminiscent of certain regions of France. With an overhanging roof, dark wooden brackets, decorative eaves, and tall arched windows, the current Swiss Ambassador’s residence on Dien Bien Phu is the perfect replica of villas in the southwest of France from the late 19th century. As the wealth, power and population of the colony increased, villas began to reflect the personal tastes and designs of the inhabitants, paving the way for Hanoi’s next generation of architecture.
T
he 1920s and 1930s were a dynamic and exciting time for urban change and creativity in Hanoi. There was a shift away from traditional colonial style, as architects embraced the culture and climate of the region. Influential new architects, such as Ernest Hébrard of the Central Service of Urbanism and Architecture, were highly critical of what they saw as the culturally and climatically inappropriate neoclassical architecture introduced by the French. Applying his knowledge of traditional Vietnamese, Chinese and Khmer architecture, Hébrard sought to fuse classical European elements with more traditional Asian decorative features, in structures that were better on carved stylised scrolls and upturned suited to the hot climate of curved-tile roofs. Hanoi. His designs, such These stylised additions represented as the National Museum the desire of the residents to show of Vietnamese History and individuality through their villas. “You Hanoi University, became can tell a lot about the residents from known as the Indochine looking at the detail on their houses,” Style. explains historian Roman Szlam. The Private residences former Esperanto headquarters on Hang emphasised this new fusion Quat, the Olympic Committee Building promoted by the Beaux-Arts at 36 Tran Phu, and villas 76 and 78 on school of architects, who Phan Dinh Phung are all examples of were heavily influenced this unique period. by Hébrard. Traditional European Empire-style International Style villas were embellished By the 1930s, French and Vietnamese with medallions and Taoist architects were also embracing what symbols, Chinese characters Logan describes as “the International Style popular around the world at that time”. The ornate decoration of colonial architecture was cast aside in favour of the modern streamlined shapes that came to signify sophistication, luxury and glamour around the globe. The Bank of Indochina (now the State Bank of Vietnam), built in 1930 by Georges-André Trouvé, was designed “to look solid and grounded,” says Szlam. “It was a symbol of the serious formality and structure needed to manage the colony’s finances.” The bank follows Art Deco trends, such as the geometric shape, flat roof and three-ringed dome over the portico, but Szlam refers to the bank as a “truly transitional and International Style which manages to also incorporate Asian features, such as the octagonal shaped vents with Asian motifs above
Hanoi
Transitional Architecture
the windows”. In a desire to show that Indochina was progressing and to stimulate the depressed economy, the government opened up the areas of Ba Dinh to the west of the city and the swamp to the south of Rue Gambetta (Tran Hung Dao), encouraging modern and fashionable designs. “Many new villas were designed by Vietnamese architects for wealthy Vietnamese families,” says Linda Mazur, who is currently writing a book on the topic. “At a time when colonial authorities made it hard for Vietnamese to achieve anything of distinction, these villas symbolised a modern Vietnamese impact on [Hanoi].” In the book Hanoi: Sifting through French Architecture, Ngo Huy Quynh — a graduate of the École des Beaux-Arts — described himself as “an architect who is Vietnamese to his core but who had a chance to absorb the best of Western influences”. Key features of the International Style, such as round ventilation windows, circular stairways and thick cement walls, encouraged air flow and were perfectly suited to the Hanoi climate. Yet in the early 1940s, the city entered a period of unrest that would last well into the 1970s. “By the 1930s, Vietnamese architects were just starting to transform their city,” Mazur says. “Imagine how different Hanoi would look today if this flow of creativity had not been stifled by war.”
Noteworthy Buildings U NIVERSITY
OF
H ANOI
(19 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem) — 1926
S TATE B ANK
OF
V IETNAM
(cnr. Ly Thai To and Le Lai, Hoan Kiem) — 1930
R ESIDENTIAL V ILLAS (76 and 78 Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh) — 1930s
Hanoi Soviet-Influenced Era
F
Noteworthy Buildings
or much of the latter part of the 20th century, Vietnam was closely tied to the Soviet Union. Soviet architects and planners H ANOI R AILWAY S TATION played a significant part in the city’s (120 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem) — 1900; post-war reconstruction, and Hanoi’s rebuilt in the 1970s architecture from this period reflects H O C HI M INH ’ S M AUSOLEUM that connection. (Hung Vuong, Ba Dinh) — 1975 From 1955 to 1990, many budding architects studied in the Soviet Union S OVIET -V IETNAMESE C ULTURAL and Warsaw Pact countries, bringing F RIENDSHIP P ALACE back a characteristic style that reflected (91 Tran Hung Dao, the prevalent ideology. This is Hoan Kiem) — 1986 poignantly visible at the Hanoi Railway Station, where the central section, rebuilt after the American War in Cubist Soviet style, stands in stark contrast to foundations, but when we achieve final the Beaux-Arts wings — victory, we will build them back even functionalism juxtaposed more spacious, larger and beautiful”. upon beauty. The Soviet era brought a departure During the American from indigenous and religious traditions, War, extensive bombing with a greater emphasis on development of military and industrial of extensive suburbs and social housing buildings destroyed many rather than high-profile and ornate parts of the city, including municipal buildings. Pre-fabricated, civilian areas. Before the medium-rise concrete block buildings end of the conflict, Ho Chi which resembled similar low-cost Minh declared that “Hanoi housing around the world began to ring may be destroyed to the the city edges. However, prominent examples of municipal architecture remain. The Soviet-Vietnamese Cultural Friendship Palace, an example of 1980s International Modernism, was designed and built the angled roof edges represent a by the Soviet Union on what were traditional Vietnamese house or previously the grounds of an elaborate resemble a lotus bud. French neo-classical building. “A classic example of Cubist architecture,” says Regeneration historian Roman Szlam, referring to With the fall of the Soviet the boxy exterior broken up by straight Union, and the advent of Doi cubed detailing and rectangular Moi in the mid 1980s, the city windows. Although based on a model became increasingly influenced for an exhibition and a sporting hall by international styles, ending developed in Moscow, modifications the dominance of Soviet — such as the broad curved awnings architecture. The next generation — were added to fit Hanoi’s climatic of architects felt that Soviet conditions. styles no longer represented the Hanoi’s best known symbol of Sovietcity and lacked national identity. Vietnamese architectural collaboration “We feel like strangers in front can be seen in the design of the Ho Chi of the big blocks,” said Dang Minh’s Mausoleum. The imposing Thai Hoang, one of the period’s grey granite structure perfectly reflects leading architects. the Soviet mentality that, according to As investment poured into Logan, “national architecture must be Vietnam and commercial majestic, symmetrical and solemn.” developments took root, However, the sloping edges on the Hanoi’s cityscape was once three-tiered roof highlight Vietnamese again transformed. In addition influence on the otherwise Modern to the new developments, Cubist interpretation of a classical the 1990s brought a growing design. There is still debate as to whether appreciation for the city’s historic architecture. Economic development allowed both renovation and transformation of some of the city’s most important buildings, making the preservation of Hanoi’s character and sense of place an ongoing challenge for the authorities and developers alike.
T
he Hanoi of today is very different to the one found 10 years ago. As anyone who has lived in the city more than a decade will tell you. What was a sleepy town at the turn of the new millennium is quickly morphing into a fast-paced global city with a shiny new exterior. That’s not to say that the twisting alleyways, narrow houses and historic architecture have gone, but residents and planners are embracing the innovative architecture and glossy high-rise complexes that are shooting Hanoi straight into the future. The city is expanding beyond its historic borders, and new areas — such as the previously rural Tu Liem developments, is integrating sustainable District — are now home to architectural elements to reduce their some of Hanoi’s biggest and carbon footprint and is incorporating brightest new developments, designs that connect with the such as the Keangnam surrounding social and environmental Landmark 72, Vietnam’s landscape. “Design needs to be reflective tallest building. of the project’s time, place and culture, New developments are and ultimately enhance the lives of also taking on multi-faceted users,” explains chief design officer Bill uses. According to Callison, Lacey. The new Lotte high-rise is now a the lead architecture firm fixture on the Hanoi skyline and is easily of the new Lotte Center, identifiable by its sleek lines and central “The 65-storey landmark arched indent, designed to reflect the is Hanoi’s first truly selfside of a woman’s ao dai. sufficient live, work and play destination.” The Question of Sustainability The Lotte building, However, despite the emergence along with many other new of sustainable architecture and contemporary planning, the majority of the new buildings in Hanoi’s central districts are neither sustainable nor contemporary. Narrow-style tube houses still dominate the Old Quarter, and there is a growing taste for neo-Haussmann style buildings, which mimic French designs of the late 19th century. Elaborate wrought-iron balconies and carved stucco moulding, fake mansard roofs with dormer windows, gold-painted banisters and oversized sparkling chandeliers typify these outof-continuity constructions. A perfect example of this can be seen in Trang Tien Plaza, which mimics the original department store, Magasins Godard, built in the early 1900s. Yet the new National Assembly building and Hanoi Museum are
Hanoi Contemporary
evidence that the authorities are working to capture and preserve Vietnam’s rich ancient culture in their plans for the city, while still looking to the future. Although the inverted, terraced pyramid of the Hanoi Museum is not a unique design, the building is intended to minimise energy use and is an example of the city’s desire for sustainable, contemporary architecture designed to highlight the culture of Vietnam. This alliance of old and new can also be seen in the National Assembly building, currently being constructed on the site of the old Thang Long Citadel. In addition to the sustainable water treatment and energy saving features, the building will include glassbottomed walkways — allowing visitors to view the excavated foundations of Thang Long. According to the UNESCO World Heritage Convention, the area has been “the centre of regional political power for almost 13 centuries without interruption”. And this new piece of architecture embraces that ancient history while moving the city into the future.
Noteworthy Buildings H ANOI M USEUM (Pham Hung, Tu Liem) — 2010
N ATIONAL A SSEMBLY (Cong Truong Ba Dinh) — To be completed in 2014
L OTTE B UILDING (54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh) — 2014
From Barbara Pellizzari's 'Attimi' series
Arts
ARTS
NATIONAL
The City in Mind Cities are in a constant state of transition. But it’s not just knocking down buildings that changes them — for these city artists, it’s as simple as shifting one’s perspective. Words by Ed Weinberg
W
hen Barbara Pellizzari sees a city, she sees its people. “What impresses me the most,” she says, “is the fact that people have their own rhythm, they have their own time... They go with nature.” She measures the built environment by people’s reactions to it. “My work is the means of revealing how we can all be as deeply involved in our surroundings as I feel myself to be.” When Ha Manh Thang sees a city, he sees the things it contains. “The first scent of a city,” he says, “is always the first impression to me when I arrive there.” He paints the city’s buildings and aura, but what he’s really getting at is what people made in their image. When Mike Hern sees a city, he sees it in layers, like the rings of a tree. “Neglect of restoration results in the building’s patina,” he says, “which gives evidence of its age. I see developments in the neighbourhoods at random with no fear of simply building on top of existing rooftops. The only concern is using up as much space as they can.” When Lys Bui sees a city, she sees its memory. “The new Vincom [Union Square], it’s actually a replacement of the beautiful Eden Mall,” she says. “It was very beautiful. I had a lot of connection with the building.” Its demolition inspired her to start drawing the
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From Mike Hern's 'Stacked' series
old buildings that are fast disappearing in Saigon. “I don’t have a picture of it, all I have is the memory.” When Cristina Nualart sees a city, she sees those things whose absence allowed it to be. “Loss isn’t always necessarily a negative occurrence,” she says. “Demolition affects insignificant houses, huts in a slum or even colonial architectural gems. There is an equality in the destruction which is a model for a balanced society.” These aren’t the things we see printed on postcards — well, with the exception of Bui’s postcard series — these are private interpretations made public, personal definitions of the monolithic. And they’re perhaps truer to the way we experience our built environment, which is the whole point anyway.
Cultural Touchstones Part of our shared heritage are those things we all have in common — whether they’re nostalgia for how the light falls across a certain building at 5pm on a summer’s day or other circumstances that accompany specific moments in our lives. These are the basic materials for the city artist, the clichés they play off to get you to see what they see. In Thang’s Galerie Quynh solo show last year, Heaven is a Place, he silhouetted iconic architecture and focused on its effects on the total scene. “Vulnerable and exposed,” the show’s press release read, “their physical, imposing stature may seem diminished, but their symbolic power still exists. That their identities cannot be stripped entirely reveals how deeply the images and ideals are ingrained in our collective consciousness.” It’s not an entirely ominous exercise. He reduces Hanoi’s cityscape to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum “because it marks a special period of time when Vietnam united through many difficulties,” Thang says. He adds: “When I was 13, as a student, I visited the mausoleum and felt it special, and I was so proud of it. Now, whenever I am on Hung Vuong and look at it, I still feel that it’s special and attractive. It’s a part of Vietnamese history, this city, this country and the people.”
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From Ha Manh Thang's 'Heaven is a Place' series, 'Sai Gon Landscape No. 1 (below) and No. 2 (left)'
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Cristina Nualart's 'Sai Gone' mural. Photos by Kyle Phanroy
From Lys Bui's 'From Saigon' series
Reconceptualising the Everyday “Most of the time they say they didn’t realise it’s [the same] building,” Bui says about those who look for the inspiration to her whimsical building sketches. “They saw it every day, they just didn’t recognise it at all.” Part of this is artistic license, but part of this is taking a closer look. “When I got back from New York I was jobless for a year,” she says. “So I spent a lot of time walking around [Ho Chi Minh City]. Then I was riding my motorbike in District 5, and purposely looking for these houses. That’s the moment when I paid attention to the details on the houses. “And naturally, it became my habit.” Nualart looked at the remains of some of these forgotten houses for her latest work, the rubble mural Sai Gone that’s currently on display at LIN Center. Based on the longrunning evictions in Ho Chi Minh City’s Thu Thiem area in District 2, the mural is a collage of demolished brick, cement, floor tiles and wall pieces that form the Saigon skyline, with Thu Thiem fading in the background. In the artist’s statement, Nualart says, “It seemed appropriate to make an artwork with the rubble, as a way of keeping together some fragments of the community that was dispersing.” And sometimes these new associations can become more than just concepts. As the architect Mies van der Rohe famously said, “Architecture starts when you carefully put two bricks together.” For Lys Bui’s building archive, check fromsaigon.tumblr.com; for Cristina Nualart’s work, visit cristinanualart.com or her mural exhibition at LIN Center (180/47 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC); for Ha Manh Thang’s work, head to hamanhthang.com or the tail-end of his Bangkok solo show preview at Manzi Art Space (14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi). Mike Hern’s work is currently hanging at deciBel (79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, HCMC), and Barbara Pellizzari’s show Attimi will open Sep. 18 at Casa Italia (18 Le Phung Hieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi)
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insider In conversation with Ed Weinberg, Vietnam’s most acclaimed young architect talks flooded metros, multinational architecture and the century of bamboo. Photos by Francis Xavier
A
fter studying for 10 years in Japan, Vo Trong Nghia came back to Vietnam with ideas on blending sustainable design and contemporary aesthetics with inexpensive, local materials and traditional building techniques. In the eight years since setting up Vo Trong Nghia Architects, he’s picked up awards both nationally and internationally, and designed 26 residences, restaurants, resorts and schools. To those who follow the discipline, he’s the face of Vietnamese contemporary architecture — and his blend of green design and Asian sensibility is the great hope for Vietnam’s architectural future. We caught Nghia at his Ho Chi Minh City office, at a mid-morning hour after some meeting and before another. His 30-architect workforce were dressed in regulation white shirts, models of past constructions surrounding them. The office radiated a sense of peace and productivity. Over black tea, we chatted architectural visions and life. Word: What are you trying to express in your architecture? Vo Trong Nghia: We express our thinking, our lifestyle, our love with the city, with the human being and with nature. We are now almost crazy with seven billion people in the world, climate change and every day — changing, changing, changing. People are getting crazy. So that’s why we try to put as much as we can of nature into the architecture, so people can enjoy. Word: How does your work interact with these big skyscrapers? VTN: Scale is important, but also small projects can have a big impact to the city... We are making houses like [2012 HCMC residential project] Stacking Green, and we want people to make all tube houses with a green facade, and green roof. Word: Why all the bamboo in your work? VTN: Bamboo is just one natural material... Now we are using much more bamboo. We do like 30 percent bamboo projects, and 70
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INSIDER
NATIONAL
Vo Trong Nghia: percent of the other. We have a lot of bamboo in Vietnam. And especially the big ones in northern Vietnam are one piece, one dollar. You can have a huge amount of that with low cost... Bamboo should be a very good material in the 21st century. Word: What does the Japanese influence in the firm add? VTN: Mentality. The way of working, the way of thinking — also, being honest. Word: You’re winning a lot of awards — you have through the whole life of the company. You’re internationally recognised. What are you trying to represent of Vietnamese architecture to the world? VTN: As much as we win awards, Vietnamese architecture is going to the world.
Word: So you’re trying to spread Vietnamese architecture — but people in the world who follow architecture, they see your work, and they’ll come to Ho Chi Minh City and be shocked. VTN: [Laughter] I don’t think so. They can feel something they don’t have in their home country. That’s also interesting. Word: What do you value in the architecture of Ho Chi Minh City? VTN: No comment. Word: No? Come on, that’s a question that most people have a lot to say about. VTN: No, we just talk about what is the potential. [Laughter] We still have a lot of opportunity for architects to make architecture... Because everything can be rebuilt.
Building a World for Trees Word: And what areas do you see the most opportunity in? VTN: I like District 2. I’m living there... in Diamond Island. [Nghia shows us prototypes of the modular bamboo dome community centre he’s building for the Diamond Island residences, now in prototype] Word: You build a few domes... it’s something I’ve noticed about your work in general, you’re not using every available part of the space. You have a parcel of land, and most people build up in a square. But you sometimes round the corners, sometimes like with the university you have green areas... they’re not usable, except to look at. VTN: You know, in Ho Chi Minh City we don’t have a lot of greenery. So that’s why our policy is to make all buildings with trees.
It’s a very simple thing. We try to plant as much as we can, and every time we think how many trees we can plant on our building, on our site. So that’s why we’ve named [our 2014 HCMC residential project] House for Trees. Now, when a client is coming here and asking us to design a house, the first question is, “Can we do a house for trees?” Word: Does that differ for Hanoi? VTN: We do the house for trees too [there]. And then people can enjoy the trees and living in that space. But the first question is, “Can we do the house for trees?” If they don’t accept that, so — finished. Word: That’s something you have in common with a21 studio. In their headquarters, [lead
architect] Nguyen Hoa Hiep’s house, they have a tree growing inside. And they’ve been cutting the floor so the tree can grow. I was speaking with [a21 studio architect] Nghiem Dinh Toan, who used to work with you — “Both of them were my staff,” Nghia interjects, “Hiep and Toan” — he was saying that humans must adapt to nature, somewhat like you’re saying. If the client doesn’t want to adapt to nature, then of course they can’t work with him. VTN: No — but recently, every client wants nature inside their home, inside their building. It’s easy to convince them, recently. Word: But you feel that buildings have to bend to nature. VTN: Of course we need to respect nature. Humans are a small part of nature.
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“In Ho Chi Minh City we don’t have a lot of greenery. So that’s why our policy is to make all buildings with trees. It’s a very simple thing... When a client is coming here and asking us to design a house, the first question is, ‘Can we do a house for trees?’” Word: Let’s get back to Hanoi — what sort of landscape does Hanoi have for your work? VTN: A lot of work. And a lot of things to do, you know what I mean? Something that’s very good, very nice, we don’t have anything to do. [Laughter] Word: What work informs your work? What architects have influenced you? VTN: I love the system of Norman Foster. I like the way [he built] up a system that can do very high quality buildings around the world.
projects [but the style of other offices in his network is consistent], people can recognise that easily. It’s Norman Foster, but it’s not all done by him. That’s the best system, I think. Because we can work with many partners. If partners can work by themselves, that means they can make their office. We’re trying to produce the number of offices, not only the number of architects. Like [partner Masaaki] Iwamoto, he handles a lot of projects, and some of them he has to do by himself. And then he will quit [our] office and make his own office.
Word: You are working around the world... VTN: Yeah, but not big like him. I’m still trying to understand how he can handle 1,000 architects, and [still] do very high-end architecture.
Word: So you’re sort of training up architects. VTN: We train together. I’m training myself, I’m training him too, and we’ll try together.
Word: Do you see your company growing much bigger? VTN: Every day. [Laughter]
Word: Where is the next office you’ll open? VTN: No, that’s the partner, he’ll make his own office.
Word: Your company has grown a lot since you started. VTN: Yeah, recently it’s going like this [Nghia traces an upward trajectory with his finger].
Word: Okay — where’s the next office he will open? VTN: Yes, yes. Like a21 — or you should interview Sanuki + Nishizawa [Architects — also on the contemporary vanguard]. They’re from my office too. We target not only architecture, we try to produce architects. That is much more important.
Word: How about you? Are you working on anything personally, or do you supervise? VTN: I am here — like I told you at first, I am here without TV, without magazines, without internet. [I have] huge amounts of time to work with every partner here. Word: Do you see that continuing, that you’ll be so hands-on on every project? VTN: No. We’re trying to build up a Norman Foster system... He just does some important
Word: So you’re trying to grow this contemporary movement.., VTN: No, no, I’m not saying that! Word: How do you envision Vietnam looking in 20 years? VTN: I think Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi are changing every day, very fast.
Word: And what will they look like? VTN: What will they look like? I hope it’s not like Jakarta. [Laughter] Jakarta is a crazy city. I love Kuala Lumpur. But you can walk from here to there in five minutes, and if you go by car it will take you a half-hour. The same problem will happen here. Word: Do you think that infrastructure — like when they build a metro system in Ho Chi Minh City — do you think that infrastructure will make a big difference? VTN: Of course. We need something like that system. Otherwise people will be using cars — traffic jams all day. I prefer [the monorail] to the underground. Because you know, in Ho Chi Minh City there are a lot of floods... If they cannot control the water, someone some day inside the metro will have a problem. If we don’t do well with control, and we make a lot of [earthworks] underground... they’ll drill inside the land like this, and they’ll make some exits like this, and the water will come in here. [Laughter] That isn’t very difficult to control, but for the Vietnamese personality... it’s like nuclear power! It doesn’t fit with the Vietnamese personality. Word: Is there a city in the world that you want to see Vietnam’s cities emulate? VTN: I love London. Word: I don’t think they will become like London... VTN: It’s the best city in Europe. The infrastructure and the river, the bus, the metro, it’s incredible. And you just get on the bus, and just go, and there’s a lot of green space! Crazy beautiful.
The Designs Buildings by Vo Trong Nghia architects:
T HIS P AGE
The Son La restaurant complex
O PPOSITE P AGE
(from top to bottom) — House for Trees in Ho Chi Minh City — The interior of a house in Binh Thanh District, Ho Chi Minh City — The Kontum Indochina Cafe in the Central Highlands
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wordvietnam.com | August 2014 Word | 91 Photos provided by Vo Trong Nghia Architects
business
BUSINESS
NATIONAL
A Roaring Trade How does a business go from being small to becoming medium or even large? Nick Ross speaks to three business owners based in Vietnam who’ve made that transition. Photos by Kyle Phanroy
I
n early June, El Gaucho opened their latest restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City. Located just across from the Park Hyatt, at the entrance to the courtyard leading to the Refinery, this was the sixth restaurant the chain had opened in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and Bangkok. Many asked Dany Himi, the brains and driving force behind this themed Argentinian steakhouse, the same question. With his original space located just two blocks away, weren’t the two locations going to clash, compete for the same customers? His initial response was non-committal. “We will have to wait and see. If we need to make changes, we will.” But two weeks into the soft opening his rejoinder had changed. “Some people prefer the original restaurant because it’s smaller, more intimate. Others like the new one.” Rather than losing customers he was gaining them. His market, one he describes as “the younger and middle-aged generation of urban professionals, as well as local and international business clientele”, had grown. Dany’s story is one of 30 years doing business in Europe. Originally owning “a young fashion textile brand with more than 300 retail outlets in Czech Republic, Romania, Bulgaria, Poland, Germany, Israel, Slovakia, Russia and Croatia”, his past life also saw him enter the restaurant and hotel industry. He’s used this experience to his benefit in Vietnam. “I previously developed [the El Gaucho restaurant concept] and ran it in a slightly different form in Europe,” he explains. “I [decided] to adapt the concept to Asia and to bring it to the next level in terms of design, menu, wine and hospitality. It is always necessary to make concept modifications according to a country’s specific requirements — design and layout due to the different composition and character of buildings; the food and wine menu in terms of availability and taste.” Yet Dany is the first to admit how difficult it is to run a restaurant chain. “I wouldn’t be able to do it without my sons,” he has told me on a number of occasions. His sons, Patrick and David, treat their father with reverence. “He never stops working,” said David once. “He has so much experience,” chimed in Patrick. “We know nothing compared to what he knows. But we’re learning.”
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“‘Every time we’ve [had problems] it’s because we’ve got the wrong people. It’s hardest with foreigners. If it doesn’t work out, it’s a long painful process. But the error is also internally. The error is on my part. We hired them’” All About People Now with seven offices across Asia, Cimigo’s founder Richard Burrage first entered the market research industry in Hong Kong. “I was working with clients for their regional research needs from Hong Kong in the early 1990s,” he recalls. “That meant travelling constantly from Japan to Indonesia. My first project in Vietnam was in 1994, and for the next three years I frequently travelled to Hanoi. Back then the hidden charm had far more emphasis on the charm. The market was vibrant and I saw an opportunity to put my mark on what was a new sector.” His dream came to fruition just after the millennium when he set up his first office in Vietnam. It was tough. “At the time it was a huge risk. I had a three-month-old daughter and put my heart and soul and every last penny into
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the business… Yet in retrospect it was much easier then to enter a new market than it is today.” Like Dany, for Richard the key to success — and failure — is people, the people he hires, the people who make his business what it is today. “Every time we’ve [had problems] it’s because we’ve got the wrong people,” explains Richard. “It’s hardest with foreigners. If it doesn’t work out, it’s a long painful process. But the error is also internally. The error is on my part. We hired them.” He adds: “It’s only in Vietnam that I have a foreign managing director. Everywhere else we’ve hired a local. In Thailand, Indonesia or India, you don’t really need a foreigner. The clients don’t want to see a foreigner. It’s rapidly becoming like that here. The most difficult factor is finding,
managing and motivating talent. It underlies every success and every failure.” However, it’s not just HR that’s behind success or failure, for Richard it’s responsiveness, the ability to adapt to changing needs and requirements, both of the customer and the market. The ability to adapt is what Dany stresses as well. “Being an owner operator enables great agility,” Richard explains. “A global competitor has to run through internal loops to deploy new technology or services, whereas we can just launch and reiterate. Experienced clients don’t need the safety of a global brand, but look for locally meaningful solutions and expertise. This is where we excel. We invest a lot [in technology]. Given our size, we punch well above our weight in terms of the tools we employ and the speed we bring things to the market.”
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Customer-Focused Caroline Bidermann cut her teeth working for restaurant chain owner Groupe Flo in France before moving to Vietnam to take up a position with Highlands Coffee. The joint founder of barbecue-on-the-table concept Barbecue Garden, in the past 12 months she has opened a second restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City and two franchises overseas, one in The Philippines and one in Malaysia. Like Dany and Richard, she stresses the importance of people and teamwork. “We have many great talents in our company that allow us to develop the concept and stay in line with our quality standards,” she
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says. “One of the secrets is to learn how to detect talent and then to create the working conditions in order to keep [the talent] and grow together.” However, she also believes in the importance of the concept, and ensuring that high standards are always met. “People don’t have so many opportunities to share entertaining moments with friends and family in their day-to-day life,” she explains. “This is what we bring because this is what we are — we are all about entertainment. The possibility for our guests to cook together at their table is an exciting and unique experience for
them.” She adds: “Vietnamese are more and more open to new forms of cuisine. However, what doesn’t change is their expectation in terms of quality. The ingredients need to be extremely fresh and tasty. Vietnamese do not appreciate dishes that [are cooked from] frozen.” Dany restates this in a different way. “F&B is not something you draw on paper; F&B is about the customer only. It is about creating an overall satisfaction and to reach this, you need to put all your focus on the business and be present, every day, it doesn’t matter when and how.”
“‘One of the secrets is to learn how to detect talent and then to create the working conditions in order to keep [the talent] and grow together’”
The Personal Challenge The need to be constantly involved in the business, to be hands-on and always focused is something that Caroline also feels. To make this happen — although motivations such as earning money and being successful are a driving factor — you require something extra. “You give so much of your time and energy,” Caroline says. “This is a job you have to do with passion.” And to do it with passion, and move your business forward, you have to constantly look to improve. You have to go the extra mile. “I wouldn’t say that being prepared to spend money to improve a product is a key to success,” says Dany. “It’s a given fact. I hardly know any business that can make a one-time investment and then all is settled
and done. I think it is not professional either to think that way. Improvements on a daily basis are essential to today’s businesses and in most cases these cost money.” Richard doesn’t entertain illusions about the need to constantly improve and move forward, even while under the strain of setting up and running a business in a number of different locations. The key, though, is why. Why are you doing this? “Truly understand the motivation,” he says. “I can’t help think that I would be a happier, healthier person if I had not done this. Understand the sacrifices you will be making. Make sure your home business is strong, in good leadership hands and will not suffer if attention is diverted elsewhere. Take one market at a time, get each
operation cash-positive before stretching resources to the next.” He adds: “The real challenge is a personal one — spending weeks at a time overseas. My partner travels, too, out of Hong Kong. But essentially it’s just us. If you’re setting up a new office in a new market, you’re essentially living in a hotel and coming home at weekends. One week a month is okay, but when it’s three weeks a month, it’s draining.” There’s no secret to growing a business from small to medium and even large, but there are certainly a number of connected themes: the people you work with, the ability to adapt, customer focus and the need to constantly improve. But topping all of these is passion, drive and self-sacrifice. Without these, your business won’t have legs.
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Arts
MUSIC
HCMC
The Saigon Sound
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Four mostly-expat groups are releasing EPs later in the month, and they don’t know how much of the world is watching. Words by Ed Weinberg, photos by Kyle Phanroy and Ed Weinberg
I
n last month’s Word, Karen Hewell wrote an opinion piece called On Transience. In it, she tracked the June departure of Hanoi expat band Say Oms, and connected their career arc with those who’d come before — expats who eventually went home at some point. The solution she proposed to end this vicious cycle was in embracing the music while it lasts, and maybe even afterwards. When she posted it on the Facebook group Expats in Ho Chi Minh City, she encountered some opposition, most notably from Expats avatar-around-town Ben Robinson. And, though the battle was pitched, some good points came out of it, all circling around a dilemma concerning the four bands talked about later in this piece — namely, can bands with mostly expat members, playing a nonVietnamese brand of music actually make a dent here?
Highlights from the Battle The Magic Pinions live at Broma; photo provided by The Magic Pinions
Ben Robinson: It’s just people messing around on an extended holiday. Anyone in any way serious about trying to make a career in music (that involves recording in a studio and releasing music to buy) is at home (or in their home country) doing just that. Expat musicians are dilettantes, only the seriously misguided would come here to try to further a music career. In any case, a music ‘scene’ of expat bands and acts doesn’t really ‘belong’ to a place, you need local bands of native musicians to do that. Genuine question: Who has released an album here? Or even, who has recorded anything in a studio? Can’t really blame the audience for not listening to albums that don’t exist. Emily Navarra [Dancer / Scene Organiser]: There are a handful of bands that are not just gigging in Saigon. They gig in Mui Ne, Nha Trang and Hanoi as well... They are not moving towards ‘fame’ because they are finding the beauty of being a musician in an emerging underground scene. Will they continue to stay? I don’t know. Do they care about reaching the local audiences? I believe they do. David Moses Haimovich [of Space
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Panther]: TL;DR: Saigon scene is mad tiny, but real great.
Listening to Albums that Don’t Exist
Jack Clayton making a Space Panther woodcut print (above); James and the Van Der Beeks practising (below); Space Panther recording at Mark Rodgers’ Sonic Uprising studio (opposite)
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I walk into Mark Rodgers’ Sonic Uprising studio in HAGL 3, greeted by darkness and Mark wearing a shogun’s cloak. A short, climbing moan is coming from the only lit room in the apartment — Space Panther’s David is wearing headphones, singing into a pop-shielded mic. They’ve been in here for four hours, since before sunset. Space Panther’s other half, Bryon RamseyLeonard Rudd, plays the result, his vocals already mixed in, a euphoric 85 BPM beat giving the song its lush texture. Feels is the second song they’ve recorded with Mark, intended for a six-song EP called Creature, to be released in late August. David later writes me, on consecutive lines of a Facebook message, “It sounds nothing like Steely Dan / It sounds like calling your Dad after a few beers with Shazam turned up full blast in the background / It sounds somewhere between blissed out electronic indie and subtle r&b / It sounds ‘blissed out’ / It sounds.” The Magic Pinions, The Love Below and James and the Van Der Beeks are also releasing EPs on Aug. 29 at Cargo Bar (7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC), on the type of night Saigon’s original music scene has rarely seen. Nick Simon of The Magic Pinions has a bit more of a Saigon-specific inspiration — yet one viewed through an expat’s remove. “The upcoming EP is called Sketches,” he says, “and to me it’s five songs that represent an element, not just of the city, but of moving to somewhere new, the mystery and wide eyes that come with it and also the thoughts of where you come from.” They aim to bring a bit more stillness and tranquility to the scene — as Nick says, “I’ve always thought of The Magic Pinions as the after party music, or the music you’d listen to the day after.” Gabriel Kaouros of The Love Below describes their EP, Saigon Stories, as “about Saigon, morality, love and life in general”. It was “totally self produced and recorded by our guitarist and vocalist Andre Ngo. It will sound like The Love Below — urban hip hop sound with soul and groove.” It will also have the sound of Gabriel’s swaggering
“But let’s not be sticklers about the recorded output, and settle debates on technicalities. Expat scene or not, recorded or not, these bands all play some lovely music” bass and main lyricist Tanya Smackdab’s scene godmother experience — she fronted the funky party band mainstays The Banana Project and The Marmalades, who graced stages both in Vietnam and abroad. Gareth Katz of James and the Van Der Beeks tells me lies, but that’s okay — their forthcoming EP has the fantastical name F/ck Up a Shark. “It sounds like NSYNC and Cannibal Corpse. Dynamic synergy. The sound of one hand clapping in an empty forest.” Just what you might expect from these bearded tricksters of dance punk — and that sound of one hand clapping is from the girls Gareth invites onstage during the show to give him whisky slaps. But let’s not be sticklers about the recorded output, and settle debates on technicalities. Expat scene or not, recorded or not, these bands all play some lovely music, and three of them will join the eight others who are performing at the original music showcase, Don’t Feed the Monkey, which happens earlier in the month.
Don’t Feed the Monkey “Don’t Feed the Monkey is an artist collective
which aims to promote original music and art,” says UGWAE and 67s member Alec Schachner. “It grew from an idea of artist self-promotion — which is really a necessity in the Saigon scene, where venues do not promote.” It’s also an event approaching festival status, happening at Cargo for its third edition this Aug. 9, and featuring 11 acts, street artists, body painters, live video artists and installation art. In addition to Space Panther, The Love Below and James and the Van Der Beeks, Tofu Band (a Vietnamesefronted band, FWIW), Demon Slayer (Vietnamese, check), Applesauce (yep), Saigon Kiss, Freckled Gypsys, Growsound, Mic Mac Max and 6789 are all playing on the night. Whether this Western-type music will eventually lure in the masses is a question that only time will answer. But in one way it doesn’t quite matter — these bands are getting to play the type of music they want to play, and audiences have more options to choose from than they did at any time in the recent past. We’re biased, but we’re having a good time with the scene, as it stands.
The Music To hear more of the bands in advance of their EP release party at Aug. 29 at C ARGO B AR (7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC), check out the following links:
T HE L OVE B ELOW
soundcloud.com/thelovebelow-1
S PACE P ANTHER
facebook.com/cosmiclynx
T HE M AGIC P INIONS
facebook.com/themagicpinions
J AMES
AND THE
V AN D ER B EEKS
facebook.com/jamesandthevanderbeeks Don’t Feed the Monkey’s original music showcase is at Cargo Bar earlier in the month, from 5pm on Aug. 9, featuring 11 bands and live visuals by LAV syndicate. To see more of Jack Clayton's woodcut prints, go to jackclaytonart.com. Look up Mark Rodgers' production offerings at sonicuprising.com. To hear the Say Oms’ lasting testament to shambolic torch songery, Live @ The H ANOI S OCIAL C LUB , click on grooveshark.com/album/Live+The+Han oi+Social+Club+Say+Oms/9372549 wordvietnam.com | August 2014 Word | 101
Arts
MUSIC
HANOI
All that Jazz
Although its 1930s halcyon days are a distant past, a jazz scene is returning to Hanoi, with both students and professionals playing the sounds of Dixieland. Words by Katie Jacobs. Photos by David Harris
T
he musician’s hands dance across the keyboard, fingers moving so fast they blur in the dim evening light. Pounding out electric notes, so passionately played it seems to be coming directly from his heart. Manh (Mike) Nguyen is one of Vietnam’s best known jazz musicians and seeing him play, it is clear that his reputation for raw, passionate music is well deserved. On a hot, stormy evening a few weeks back, I joined some friends for dinner and music on Don’s rooftop in Tay Ho. We had expected a quiet Wednesday evening and gentle background jazz. Instead we found a packed rooftop, excellent food and a level of music that would knock the socks off the
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most seasoned enthusiast. As the threat of the storm faded and the smooth beats of the opening set echoed the distant flashes of lightning, we were soon enveloped in the universal charms of jazz. Famed Swedish jazz pianist Hakan Rydin describes jazz’s universal quality as the “here-and-now-thing”. The easy improvisation and adjustment that connects people to the present even when they’re listening or playing songs written 80 years ago. Jazz may have officially started in the US at the beginning of the 20th century, but these days it wears a timeless and international style like no other genre. Although there are certain distinguishing features associated with particular areas
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“Jazz may have officially started in the US at the beginning of the 20th century, but these days it wears a timeless and international style like no other genre�
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(Swedish jazz is known for incorporating local folklore), the essence of the music erases boundaries. Every time a piece of jazz is played, it bears the mark of the individual musician and it is this individualism, the personal sounds and improvisation, which draw a global connection. And that’s the greatest thing about jazz — it’s fluid, it changes, and, as trombonist J. J. Johnson said, “it won’t stay put and it never will”. “Hanoi has a growing jazz scene,” says Rydin, who has helped forge strong bonds between the Hanoi and Swedish jazz communities. “There are some very good musicians.”
Steeped in Time Although the current-day jazz scene is still in its infancy, the genre is not new to the city. On sunny weekends a little under a century ago, French and Vietnamese would gather at the bandstand on Avenue Domine (now Le Lai) near the lake to hear the brass band perform the greatest hits of the day. The bright brassy sounds of the jazz age were sweeping the globe, and Vietnam was not to be left behind. Jazz bars sprung up throughout the country and in both Hanoi and Saigon, nightclubs would be packed with Vietnamese and French patrons, swinging into the early hours. Like the pop music of today, jazz attracted a younger crowd who connected to the upbeat tempos and dance styles. With the departure of the French and the turbulence that followed, jazz took a backseat. It wasn’t until Quyen Van Minh opened his jazz club in 1998 in the Old Quarter that those brassy notes were once again played nightly in the city. The past few years have seen a resurgence in jazz throughout the country, with both Hanoi
and Saigon boasting some world-class, home-grown talent. “The opening of the jazz department within the Conservatory of Music was a big step forward,” says Long Nguyen, one of the country’s best known saxophone players. Along with Manh Nguyen, Long is coorganiser of the Jump for Jazz concert series, which performs at venues across the city. With jazz taking a mostly-unknown backseat to commercial pop in Vietnam, the Jump for Jazz initiative aims to introduce jazz to Hanoi audiences and give them the opportunity to hear some great live music. “It’s hard to sell jazz tickets,” says Manh, “and we’re hoping these concerts will show people that it’s worth paying for. Not just something played in hotel lobbies.”
Forging an Identity The next big challenge for the Hanoi jazz community is to create a sound unique to Vietnam. “Like jazz musicians all over the world, the Hanoi musicians are looking for their musical heritage: how to combine traditional Vietnamese music and jazz,” says Rydin. “That is the dream,” adds Manh, “to create our own unique sound.” Despite this, both Manh and Long feel that when they play a piece of music — no matter where it was originally composed — their interpretation makes it take on a unique identity, thus becoming Vietnamese. Back at Don’s, a young jazz student sits behind a drum kit; although to describe him as sitting is simplifying it somewhat. Hands flying, legs bouncing, he is a force of energy lost in the beat of his music. “I’m sorry, I don’t even know what I was doing just then,” he says after a solid 10-minute drum solo. “I just get so caught
up in it, it was probably terrible.” He looks embarrassed. We assure him it wasn’t. It was Led Zeppelin-esque drummer passion right up here on this warm Hanoi evening. The young man, who occasionally plays with the student band Up, explains that he is just in Hanoi for the summer and will soon return to Sweden, where he is finishing a master’s degree in music with a focus on jazz. “But I want to come back to Hanoi as soon as possible,” he says, grinning. “My place is here. When I’m home playing my drums, I’m where I belong.”
Catch Some Jazz For a cosy, traditional style jazz club, complete with black and white checkered floor, wicker basket chairs and walls lined with photos of the patron and his saxophone, head to M INH ’ S J AZZ C LUB (1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; minhjazzvietnam.com). Heating up around 9pm every evening, the band usually plays two sets until around 11pm. The sweet notes of jazz can be heard Wednesday to Saturday on the rooftop of D ON ’ S T AY H O (16 Quang An, Tay Ho; dons-bistro.com). From 8.30pm onwards get ready to get your socks knocked off by Manh Nguyen on keyboard and his student band U P , featuring some of Hanoi’s best and brightest up-and-coming talent. Keep your eyes peeled for pop-up concerts and events organised around the city by visiting musicians, the university, embassies and the team at Jump for Jazz.
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Food & drink
I
’ve been known to ‘wing it’ from time to time, but even this one had me scratching my head a bit. Do we make this a typical “who’s got the best wings?” write-up, or do we make it a little bit more competitive — and nationalistic? Nothing like national pride to get tongues wagging. Thus, in the wake of July’s fast-paced World Cup, I present to you: The Word Cup! (of wings). What was interesting while writing the article was actually the side-dishes: Vietnamese wings come served with watercress and tomato slices; American with celery sticks and ranch dressing; and South Korean with diced radish in vinegar and coleslaw. It makes you realise that there are countless ways to not only make the wings themselves, but to create the wing experience. Without further ado — here are your winners.
EAT
HCMC
The ’Word Cup’ of Wings Faced with a selection of wings and a desire to work out which ones taste best, Harry Hodge tallies the score in the only way he knows how — mouth-first. Photos by Kyle Phanroy 106 | Word August 2014 | wordvietnam.com
Bronze: Vietnam Quan Banh Xeo 46A 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, HCMC Traditional Vietnamese canh ga chien nuoc mam (fried chicken wings with fish sauce) are pretty good at this alleyway icon, which shot to global notoriety when American gourmet Anthony Bourdain came to try the banh xeo pancakes the restaurant is named after. That said, the menu is extensive enough to include spring rolls, barbecued beef and assorted other items. The wings here are heavy on the garlic, served with tomato slices and watercress. Salty from the fish sauce infusion, extra spice can be added with a dipping chilli sauce. At VND90,000 for six wings, they are filling enough for one person, or as an appetiser for the other items offered here. With its bustling alleyway, metal tables and stools, waiters rushing back and forth with trays of aromatic delicacies and plenty of chatter, it’s a Saigon institution.
Gold: South Korea Two-Two Chicken H192A Park View A, Phu My Hung, Q7, HCMC
Silver: United States Saigon Wings 200 Cong Quynh, Q1, HCMC Saigon Wings sits just off the Bui Vien and Pham Ngu Lao strips in the backpacker area. That whole stretch of road seems to be getting new and interesting ventures opening up all the time, although you never know which ones will be there on two consecutive visits. That said, if you’re going to do one thing, do it well; Saigon Wings does wings very well indeed. After the garlic onslaught at Quan 46A, we decided to go for both a spicy and a sweet version. Enter the ‘Saigon Kiss wing’ — so named because it’s just as hot as that motorbike exhaust burn you got on your calf yesterday. You can see the chilli seeds sitting on top of the thick spicy sauce, and after a bite or two you can feel it kicking in. The honey mustard was a bit more neutral, not overpoweringly sweet. The sauce was accompanied with diced onion. Celery sticks and ranch dressing, par for the course at most North American wing eateries, were brought as well at this American-owned shop. Breakfast items were also on offer, but if your place is called Saigon Wings, your product better back it up. All good from our point of view, with six wings going for VND85,000 or a dozen for VND160,000. The smallest eatery on our list, but good peoplewatching from your picture window stool.
For this one, I returned in my mind to my days of teaching in Seoul. A chilly walk from my school in December’s sub-zero temperatures often involved a stop at a fried chicken place near my apartment. They’d fill the box so high it needed to have rubber bands wrapped around it to keep it closed. Not much went right in those days, but there was some good eatin’. Fast-forward 13 years and we find ourselves in one of the two Korean enclaves of Ho Chi Minh City — this one in Phu My Hung. Two-Two Chicken is a favourite among expats, Vietnamese and Koreans alike. Having had a lot of garlic and spice already, we went for the ‘soy sauce chicken’, financially steeper than the other stops at VND240,000. That said, VND80,000 to VND90,000 gets you six wings at each other place, while we got triple the number (it looked like 18) for a corresponding price hike. Due to size, you’d be wise to bring a buddy or two to help you. I think the title made me expect really salty wings, but these seemed to be battered with a bit of soy sauce in the preparation; they were actually a bit sweet. The only side for dipping was actually a bowl of salt, which sounds a bit odd but seemed to work. We probably didn’t need the kimchi pajun (pancake) on the side — VND150,000 — since that made it pretty much impossible for us to finish everything. But great atmosphere, no doubt. The place was packed on a Monday night, with businessmen talking shop and Vietnamese families chattering away. Perfect with a couple of beers and a light breeze.
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Food & drink
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EAT
HCMC
Breaking the Fast Over the month-long fast of Ramadan, life takes on a certain rhythm for those who observe. Words by Ed Weinberg, photos by Kyle Phanroy
“U
“When the French influence fell away from Vietnam in 1954, so did the trading connection with the French Indian colony of Pondicherry, whose cultural influence was responsible for the construction of this mosque and others as well”
sually when you don’t eat for the whole day,” my Ramadan-observing friend Youssef says, “you just eat a little bit and you get full so quickly. So I’m not super-super-starved.” It’s already 7pm, and the day’s fast has been over for nearly an hour. As SaigonNezumi.com’s Kevin Miller, Jr. — our guide to the world of Vietnamese halal — looks over the list of hot pots, my stomach rumbles. I’m not fasting but I’m still starved, and beginning to feel some solidarity. We’re in a little halal place behind the Jamiul Islamiyah Mosque — aka Nancy Mosque — a Tamil Indian-built mosque that’s now attended by Cham Muslims. When the French influence fell away from Vietnam in 1954, so did the trading connection with the French Indian colony of Pondicherry, whose cultural influence was responsible for the construction of this mosque and others as well. We’d been searching for Pho Muslim (505, TK 25/18 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, HCMC), a halal pho place Kevin had recommended. But due to the unpredictability of Ramadan opening schedules and a white-capped local’s directions, we ended up at Sulayman Restaurant (459/25/40 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, HCMC). In keeping with the Shafi’i school of thought most prevalent in Vietnam, seafood is permitted, and on the menu. Those who follow the Hanafi school of thought, like Kevin, only eat fish. And there are other differences. “A Turk,” he says, “when he’s opening a
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“‘[Berru is] one of the few halal restaurants that imports all of their meat. They do not trust the local Muslim communities’ halal meat. In short, if they do not consider the ‘halal’ meat in Vietnam as halal, it IS NOT halal’”
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restaurant, he’ll go all the way to the source of the meat. A Shafi’i will say, ‘Well, he’s a Muslim and he says it’s halal, it’s fine.’ Which, in Vietnam, it’s not fine. People can take advantage of that.”
Culture Clash This confusion over dietary guidelines is a byproduct of Muslim Saigon’s melting pot of nationalities and beliefs. On Kevin’s other blog, GoHalalVietnam.com, he gives an example of the kind of hoops the only strict halal Turkish restaurant he knows in Ho Chi Minh City — Berru (Sc3-1 My Khang, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, HCMC) — has to go through. They are “one of the few halal restaurants that imports all of their meat. They do not trust the local Muslim communities’ halal meat. In short, if they do not consider the ‘halal’ meat in Vietnam as halal, it IS NOT halal. Devout Turks will only eat at Berru.”
Just southwest of Ben Thanh Market lies Nguyen An Ninh — aka ‘Malaysia Street’. But again Kevin warns of false claims, with one restaurant going so far as to force “Vietnamese female staff to cover their heads even though they are not Muslim. They even paid a former imam to sit in the restaurant to attract Muslim travellers.” In the Halal in Hanoi section, Kevin writes, “It is nearly impossible to get halal meat in Hanoi. Most Muslims in Hanoi butcher their own meat. The current sources of Halal meat have not been confirmed. The majority of travellers bring halal canned food with them.”
Ramadan with the Cham According to Kevin, most mosques in Saigon are in Cham areas — the Cham are usually in charge of running the temples. Although most of the Muslim temples in Ho Chi Minh City were built by the former Indian
population, they’re now attended by Cham Muslims. The mosque we attend on the secondto-last Friday of Ramadan — and the last Friday before most Cham Muslims traditionally go back to their hometowns — is Cholon Jamial Mosque, a District 5 temple home to a congregation of about 100. Built in 1932, it’s the oldest mosque in the city. At 6.10pm there’s a short prayer, then at 6.20pm a break for fruit — the first food of the day. After that there’s another prayer, and at 6.50pm a proper meal — bowls of chao, laid out in long rows on a carpet on the mosque’s front veranda. We’re introduced to the congregation’s leader, a friendly older man in an orange plaid longyi, with no shirt and a pink towel across his shoulders. “I wish I would have known you were coming,” he says. “I would have set a place.” He hurriedly calls
over some water bottles for us. Here, all the food is paid for by members of the congregation. At some mosques they eat pho, at others curry. The iftar meal after a day of fasting isn’t a time for splitting checks. As the congregation leader tells us, “Ramadan is the time to think of the poor” — or just of others. As the men eat, photographer Kyle takes pictures and kids in bright headscarves and skullcaps run around. One 20-something asks if Kyle’s taking pictures for Playboy. A fire alarm-sounding bell goes off. Men in jeans, longyis and traditional white robes stream into the mosque for the post-meal prayer. The Kaaba at Mecca is embroidered on their prayer rugs, and men stand contemplating their open, upturned hands before the amplified wail. The paint is perfect, unblemished baby blue. Little girls play leapfrog on the white tile just outside, screeching as they land.
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Food & drink
MYSTERY DINER
HANOI
PYZA Polish Restaurant
Our undercover reporter heads to the first Polish restaurant to set up shop in the capital. Does it get the thumbs up? Photos by David Harris
P
olish food usually doesn’t rank highly on the list of ‘must try’ cuisines. In Hanoi it is probably lower, particularly during the oppressive summer heat. But there are plenty of reasons to be excited about the capital’s first authentic Polish restaurant, PYZA, which has been open for four months. For one, the new eatery, located on leafy To Ngoc Van in Tay Ho, joins only a handful of Slavic restaurants in the city. The other reason is that, aside from being surprisingly delicious, the eclectic cuisine has evolved over many centuries and is a novelty in its own right. Occupying a refurbished villa boasting indoor, balcony and courtyard seating areas, inside the white walls, dark timber furnishings and exposed brick create a suitably rustic feel for diners. The ground floor has also been converted into a deli-slash-bakery, offering visitors a peak at traditionally cured meats and whiffs of freshly baked sourdough as they walk through the door.
Hand me a Drop Cloth A quick glance at the menu shows that the owners have stuck as close to their culinary roots as possible: lots of meat, lots of winter vegetables (particularly white cabbage) and lots
and lots of spices. Everything comes in frighteningly large portions, so consider bringing a friend. And maybe a forklift to take you home afterwards. The restaurant offers a wide variety of reasonably priced specialities, ranging from the more traditional stuffed chicken leg with béchamel sauce (VND60,000) to the more adventurous eel in sour cream served with dill-seasoned potato (VND100,000). Those seeking some familiarity may be tempted by the eatery’s homemade lasagna (VND100,000) or grilled beef steak with green pepper sauce (VND180,000). However, diners should definitely take the opportunity to sample PYZA’s already-famous traditional meat dumplings, or pierogis (starting at VND70,000). To start, I opted for the bigos cabbage with white sausage (VND100,000), a Polish national speciality that combines sauerkraut, meat and a handsome blend of spices into a medieval-style stew. Combined, each mouthful of herbencrusted sausage with bigos was a burst of subtle yet hearty flavours. The Polish mustard also added a pleasant kick to the more relaxed flavour of the cabbage.
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The service is extremely fast and by my third mouthful of bigos, my smiling waitress was already heading over with the main course: crispy roasted pork hock golonka (VND110,000) served with vegetables, potato puree and horseradish. A moment or two between courses may have been necessary with dishes of these proportions. As promised, the roasted pork hock (aka pork knuckle) was crispy on the outside and succulent on the inside. Served in traditional peasant-style on a rustic wooden board, it was topped with a spicy roast sauce and fresh herbs. Although a satisfying follow-up to the bigos, some acidic tones may have helped cut through the richness of this dish.
Naughty But Nice The venue also offers a humble selection of desserts ranging from fried ice cream with strawberry mousse and whipped cream (VND120,000) to Polish-style pancakes with fresh seasonal fruits (VND70,000). To complete my trifecta of traditional Polish fare, I went all out on the mammoth-sized freshly made Karpatka or Carpathian Mountain cake served with whipped cream. Each layer of pate a choux was light and fluffy and drizzled with chocolate sauce. Satisfying? Immensely. A little too much cream? Probably. The decor and presentation won’t be winning awards anytime soon, but that is part of PYZA’s charm. It’s honest, it’s humble, it’s tasty and it’s cheap. The consistency and speed at which food is served is also sure to prove a hit with diners. Hawking down lumps of roast meat and hearty winter cabbage may seem unusual at this time of year, but come the dreary winter months, this place will be packed to the rafters. PYZA is at 60 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi
THE VERDICT
11
FOOD
11
SERVICE
8
DÉCOR
Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals
STREET SNACKER
HANOI
Nom Bo Kho
Papaya salad with dried beef anyone? Huyen Tran goes in search of this most traditional of dishes. Just don’t call it a salad. Photos by David Harris
“W
hat impresses you most about Vietnamese cuisine?” I ask a foreign friend who’s been in Vietnam for three months, just long enough to grasp what it’s like to live as a local. “Fish sauce,” he replies. After a pause he explains his response. “I don’t exactly mean raw fish sauce — it’s too salty and strong for me,” he says. “It’s the diverse way Vietnamese use fish sauce in their cooking, blending the raw fish sauce with other condiments to make up a light sauce. The sauces all look the same, but taste so different.” He is correct. Large numbers of Vietnamese dishes contain light fish sauce, such as mixed noodle dishes like mien tron, pho ga tron or bun bo Nam Bo. Light fish sauce is also an essential ingredient when we eat spring rolls, banh tom Ho Tay and nom.
Keeping it Traditional Nom, or papaya salad, is often served in restaurants as an appetiser. It is viewed by many as a salad and is compared to som tam in Thai cuisine. But for me, nom is not a salad — it’s not the kind of dish you eat at the start of a large, multi-course meal. It’s instead a snack for young people in Hanoi when they hang out in the afternoon. It also goes really well with beer. Very well!
There are a number of versions of nom, each made seasonally. It can be served up with jellyfish — nom sua — or barbequed bird — nom chim quay. But the most traditional version is nom bo kho, papaya salad with dried beef. No-one knows when nom bo kho was introduced in Hanoi, but generation after generation of Hanoian remembers it as the taste and smell of leaving school in the afternoon. Together with the aroma of peanuts and sweet basil, there was always the funny sound of scissors cutting beef as nom pedlars gathered around school gates. Thought to have originated in the road between the Vietnam Puppet Theatre on Hoan Kiem Lake and Cau Go, people say the first eatery was run by descendants of Chinese settlers. Served up in big baskets called thung or met, and with diners sitting on tiny schools, nom bo kho is still served in this traditional fashion at Nom Lim on Pham Hong Thai.
Nom Lim Located under a huge banyan tree out on the sidewalk, all the ingredients are on display in big rattan baskets. When diners arrive, the pedlar puts papaya, dried beef, herbs and peanuts on a plate, covering the ingredients with a light sauce. Sitting on tiny chairs and chatting away, the diners slowly make their way through the dish,
dipping almost every piece of papaya and dried beef in a separate sauce on the side. “I make the light sauce by using little drops of raw fish sauce,” says the pedlar. “Mixed with other condiments I make it as light as possible. It is very important that the broth is light and earthy, but still has that Hanoian combination of tastes — sour, sweet, salty and bitter. If the sauce is not light, it makes diners thirsty.” Instead of using tiny shredded beef, the lady makes the dried beef at home and cuts it into big portions. The curing process takes two to three days. “Once the beef is cut, we dry it over charcoal,” she explains. “When it is dry, it is a shiny brown and looks a bit like lim, a precious type of wood you find in Vietnam. That’s why we decided to call our shop Nom Lim.” The ingredients for nom bo kho are simple. But the appeal of the dish comes from the spicy taste of the dried beef, the bitterness of the chilli and pepper, the sourness of the lemon juice and the crispness of the shredded papaya mixed with mint and fresh herbs. Nom Lim is on Pham Hong Thai, near the junction with Hang Bun and opposite Xe Co cafe. The eatery serves from 4.30pm to 8.30pm. A plate of nom bo kho is VND30,000. The eatery also offers other snacks to eat with dried beef and beer
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fashion
A Natural Thing
Photos by Francis Xavier Styling by Kathryn Cardenas SOUR by Sue Mele is at Gingko Concept Store and Studio Co. WMilk can be found at facebook.com/wmilkvn Linda Mai Phung is available at Ginkgo Concept Store (254 De Tham, Q1, HCMC) La fiancée du facteur is at Studio Co. (4 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC) and SONG (75 Pasteur, Q1, HCMC) Anupa is at 9 Dong Du, Q1, HCMC
Eurydice necklace: VND5,090,000 by La fiancée du facteur
It’s a give and take, wanting to look good. Some people pile on the makeup, some can’t be bothered. But for those graceful few, there’s a compromise — one in which style is just a natural thing.
Psamathe necklace: VND13,580,000 by La fiancĂŠe du facteur
Lapis Lazuli and silver ring: VND2,000,000 by SOUR | Smokey ring: VND3,900,000 by Anupa | Moonstone and silver ring: VND2,000,000 by SOUR | Ametrine ring: VND8,800,000 by Anupa
Peplum shirt: VND220,000 by WMilk | Fish skin clutch: VND2,500,000 by Anupa | Map scarf: VND2,500,000 by Ayano Otani and Linda Mai Phung
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Cable necklace with silver detail: VND1,400,000 by SOUR by Su Mele |Maria Croptop: VND220,000 by WMilk
Lu cap: VND400,000|Malmo bag: VND1,800,000 by Linda Mai Phung
travel
TRAVEL
INTERNATIONAL
Hiking California
Heading off the tourist track from Yosemite National Park, Matt Bender takes a 340km detour into paradise. Photos by Louis Esparbès, Anna Friedland and Chelsea Rose North “Spellbound and dumb with awe … overwhelmed in the sudden presence of the unspeakable, stupendous grandeur.” — Galen Clark, guardian of the Yosemite Grant, describing visitors’ reactions upon entering Yosemite Valley c.1910
W
hen my girlfriend suggested that we spend the month of June hiking the John Muir Trail, I might have said yes too quickly. It was February when she’d suggested it. June was a long way off and a 340km trek from Yosemite National Park to Mount Whitney with the woman I love seemed as far off as my dream of one day playing the stage at Madison Square
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Garden. I hadn’t taken a substantial backpacking trip since 2002, a four-day hike deep into Arizona’s Canyon del Muerto — ‘Canyon of the Dead’ — where the bloody history of the route was attested with names like Massacre Cave and Starvation Ridge. The land around Yosemite tells a similar tale. The Yosemite library identifies three distinct tribes of Native Americans who originally inhabited the area. The California gold rush in the mid-19th century brought people looking to get rich quick from as close as the eastern US and Mexico and as far away as China. While this brought diversity and some semblance of community to the area, the one thing the settlers had in common was their push to get the tribal
leaders to give up their gold-laden lands. From the Mariposa War to the infamous Donner party, the high Sierras saw their share of barbarism in the 19th century. It would be a battle of wits between two men, however, that would lead to this area becoming one of the first federally protected lands in the world and the eventual christening of the John Muir Trail. One of the men is John Muir (duh), but the other was a much bigger name in his day: an esteemed professor at Harvard University and chief of the California Geological Survey, Josiah Whitney.
Old Guys Fighting and Furthermore John Muir was one of those Renaissance men whose list of vocations included carpenter, poet, small-time politician and amateur scientist with a penchant for geology. He was known for his habit of striking off into the then-untamed wilderness with nothing but a loaf of bread and a shotgun for months at a time. My girlfriend and I would be taking the
bare essentials as well, which today means iPhone, Kindle, water filter, 20 vacuumpacked, freeze-dried meals of lasagna and chicken filet (with grill marks!), all of the ramen our packs would hold and two cases of mint-chocolate protein bars. We started our trek in Tuolumne Meadows. When the Sierra Nevada mountain range was formed 250 million years ago, ocean tides pushed one side of the range up a little faster than the rest from Tuolumne, causing a smooth, gradual slope climbing eastward. This is the path we would be following for the next 17 days, the elevation rising as gracefully as if the earth had simply stretched out and thrown its arm over the back of the sofa.
Starting Out Day one from Tuolumne Meadows to Lyell Canyon was only 10km, and we camped on the rim of a boulder colony overlooking the river below. As we gradually developed our ‘trail legs’ the daily distance increased to 24km a day. My original intent was to keep
a notebook thick with descriptions of every bend and turn of the trail, and I stayed true to this intent for the first week or so. The pages are peppered with descriptions like “bears make a low moaning sound at night, like a sea monster or an engine powering down” and “marmots look like tiny, tuskless walruses.” The most noticeable thing about the notebook, however, is that as I personally found myself growing more used to camping in more remote places and having a protein bar for breakfast, my notes dwindled to a scant few sentences every few days. It was as if we’d grown numb to the beauty: the grey mountains towering above and the crystal clear streams, the giant trees and the little animals that lived in them. Much to Whitney’s chagrin, according to a theory loudly promoted by Muir, the mountains — smooth and sculpted like a scoop of ice cream — were carved by glaciers. According to the book John Muir: Magnificent Tramp, Whitney believed that “for unknown causes and by processes not
understood” the ground beneath Yosemite had suddenly opened up, and the sheer cliffs of the mountains were made as large walls of rock broke off and fell into the insatiable mouth of the earth. Whitney stood on his reputation with Harvard University at his back to make sure this ridiculous theory would be the one that went into the history books, shaming his detractors until they bowed their heads and stepped back into the shadow of the great professor. Muir, who refused to shut up, was publicly shamed by Whitney at first as an instigator and a fool, later as a “sheep herder” and “ignoramus”. It is safe to say that the two of them were not friends. John Muir’s theory won out in the end. Centuries of glacial activity carved the landscape into the cirques, moraines, horns and other Sierra Nevada-specific names for the cliffs and valleys of this region. Whitney stuck to his guns, however, championing his idea that “the bottom of the valley sank down” until his death in 1896, even as geological science advanced and more and
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“The hardest part about writing, as in any art, is that some things are just too big to capture. In the case of Muir and Whitney, the opposite seems to be true. The mountain captured them” more evidence was gathered to support the theory of glaciation. Muir is often painted as an innocent in the feud, the doe-eyed amateur or the kid from The Emperor’s New Clothes, but when he founded the famous conservation group Sierra Club in 1892 it was with a plagiarised seal — an almost exact replica of Whitney’s club, the California Geological Survey — and copied motto, Altiora peto — “I seek the highest places.” To be fair, that’s a catchy motto. To be unfair, stealing the motto of a club that belongs to a very outspoken critic of yours is a very cheeky move. One wonders if Muir didn’t see Whitney as a cranky old grandpa and was just rubbing salt in the wound. In tribute, Mount Whitney is the last rock you climb, the cherry at the top of the John Muir Trail and the highest mountain in the lower 48 states of the US.
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My girlfriend and I summited it at sunrise, having crashed early the night before so we could leave at midnight and finish the climb for 4am — just as the sun began to stretch its pink fingers across the sky. It was a freezing cold morning. A guy who we’d been hiking with dropped down on one knee and proposed to his girlfriend right there. My girlfriend took a picture of them. There’s a great photo of us, as well, wrapped in sleeping bags and jackets at the apex of Mount Whitney, grinning and punch-drunk from 17 days in the wilderness, still having fun yet looking forward to a pizza and a hotel room.
Coming Down The hardest part about writing, as in any art, is that some things are just too big to capture. In the case of Muir and Whitney, the opposite seems to be true. The mountain
captured them. “As long as I live,” wrote Muir, “I’ll hear waterfalls and birds and winds sing. I’ll interpret the rocks, learn the language of flood, storm and the avalanche. I’ll acquaint myself with the glaciers and wild gardens and get as near the heart of the world as I can.” Trekking down Mount Whitney was no small feat — a 1,500m descent that took several hours. We ran out of water at some point and just kept walking, hot and thirsty. I’d accidentally left a bag of snacks my girlfriend had prepared at the top of the mountain, so this last leg of the hike was clouded by hunger, thirst and an uncomfortable silence. It was our first fight in months. Two walls of granite hung on either side of the canyon as if suspended midair, and the trail descended in a sandy 75-degree slope.
Although I’d been on a daily regimen of Ibuprofen and other native medicines, pretty much every part of my body was either sore, swollen or otherwise damaged. I stopped and turned. “I’m sorry about the snacks,” I said. I thought about the “unspeakable, stupendous grandeur” all around us — all that we’d hiked over and yomped down, the beauty we’d been submersed in for nearly three weeks. The sunlight caught her hair in a way that looked as if she was wearing a halo. I looped a finger through one of her belt loops and pulled her close. She was sweaty, unshaven, unbathed and absolutely, fantastically beautiful. “Come on,” she said, “or we’ll never make
it down.” We hitched a ride from the base of Mount Whitney to the town of Lone Pine, California, and got some pizza, a hotel room and a case of Sierra Nevada IPA. Within a few days I was partying with friends in Palo Alto, with only a few telltale scars to suggest I’d spent the last two-and-a-half weeks of my summer vacation in the wilderness. Muir once said that the Sierras leave an imprint, that nature “flow[s] into you as sunshine flows into trees”. It’s a sweet thought — that some fundamental part of me bonded with some fundamental part of nature — but Muir was a hopeless romantic whose letters, frankly, start to sound a bit insane when he writes to
Ralph Waldo Emerson about being baptised in “holy mountain light” and sleeping “in a crease of the bark of a sequoia”. They are some lovely mountains, though.
Information The John Muir Trail is in California and runs through Yosemite National Park, the Ansel Adams Wilderness, Sequoia National Park and the King’s Canyon National Park. It starts in Yosemite Valley and finishes in Mount Whitney. The closest major city is San Francisco. For more information go to johnmuirtrail.org.
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TRAVEL
INTERNATIONAL
Banh Mi in DC
Once at odds with Vietnam, Katie Jacobs heads to the American capital to savour some of this country’s best-known cuisine
B
iting through the bready crust, my tastebuds hit the sweet-spot; perfectly cooked tofu nestled under a bed of fish sauce-soaked cucumber, coriander and chilli neatly topped with pickled carrot and white radish. Who knew that in the bland suburbs of northern Virginia, 15,000km from Hanoi, I would find such banh mi perfection? It had been three weeks since I left Hanoi and, in the midst of visiting my in-laws in the Washington, DC area, I was starting to experience fish sauce withdrawal. So with husband and mother-in-law in tow, we headed out in search of lunch. Boasting over 80,000 Vietnamese-Americans and a large population of Vietnamese students and professionals, the Washington, DC metro area, including swaths of Maryland and Northern Virginia, hosts the fourthlargest Vietnamese population in the United States. Finding authentic Vietnamese food that matched our Hanoi dining expectations was the easy part, deciding where to eat first proved more difficult.
In Search of Eden As karaoke blasts from a nearby music store and women in ao dai chat in Vietnamese,
we join hundreds of customers for a sunny Sunday afternoon at the Eden Center, a Vietnamese food and retail hub in Falls Church, Virginia. Opening as a small shopping mall 40 years ago — it took its name from the famous Eden Mall built in Saigon in the 1930s — Eden Center is now a 120-store complex that, according to its website, “is a home away from home and the heart and soul of the VietnameseAmerican community for the entire East Coast”. “Steaming bowls of pho, bitter melon and rambutan, the hint of air-borne fish sauce, the smell of burning joss — it’s Falls Church, Virginia?” exclaims Anthony Bourdain, famed American TV personality, during a 2009 airing of his food and travel show, No Reservations. With a large parking lot twice the size of the retail space, a central shopping mall and an American flag flying at the gate, Eden Center has all the trimmings of a great American strip mall. Yet the stores selling an assortment of Vietnamese goodies such as karaoke DVDs, jade bracelets, herbal medicines and of course banh mi, are quintessential Vietnam. Anchoring the centre is a central clock tower designed as an exact replica of
the timepiece on the front entrance of Ben Thanh Market in Ho Chi Minh City. Although silk lanterns hang in the dim light of the small hallways and tables selling CDs, dragon masks and lucky charms line the walls, this indoor market place is much smaller and quieter that its Vietnamese counterpart. As we wander the hallways, my mother-in-law eagerly enters the large Asian grocery store and joins the Vietnamese women perusing the isles for dried shrimp, fish sauce and an assortment of crackers. Tropical fruits piled high on tables and the daily prices of nhan and mang cut are painted colourfully on the shop windows. “Eden is now, of course, the centre of the Vietnamese universe in the area. It has been that way for years, and yet the place still packs surprises,” says Tim Carmen, a renowned ethnic food writer in the DC area. Not knowing where to start, we decide
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to try Song Que, a small café and deli that was famous for its banh mi and sweets long before Bourdain gave it the thumbs up. Although the majority of diners are Vietnamese, Song Que, like many of the other Eden Center establishments, attracts customers of all backgrounds. Recently named ’DC’s Best Shopping Centre’ by the Washington City Paper, Eden Center is the go-to place to experience the region’s thriving Vietnamese community. “The smells, sounds and sights in here are alien to most non-Asian Americans, but this place offers a chance to experience another part of the world and be back home by nightfall,” writes one Yelp reviewer who explains that he would have given it five stars (instead of four) except that the parking lot was nerve-wracking and a little too authentic Vietnam. While sitting on a sunny bench enjoying my banh mi, I strike up a conversation with a college-aged girl whose parents had
emigrated from Vietnam. “Whenever we need food, we come here” says Lisa as she waits for her family outside a takeout restaurant. “It’s the best. We have family friends who drive for hours just to visit Eden.” Although Lisa was born and raised in the DC area, she says she is proud of her Vietnamese roots and loved growing up with Vietnamese heritage. “Mum only cooks Vietnamese food at home,” she says, “and we celebrate all the holidays within the Vietnamese community.” As we bond over our love for banh xeo and a good bowl of pho, I am reminded again of the uniting power of food and the opportunity it provides to understand foreign cultures.
Meet me at Minh’s A few days earlier, my husband and I met our former Vietnamese teacher, Van Anh, for lunch at Minh’s Restaurant in
“As karaoke blasts from a nearby music store and women in ao dai chat in Vietnamese, we join hundreds of customers for a sunny Sunday afternoon at the Eden Center, a Vietnamese food and retail hub in Falls Church, Virginia”
Arlington, Virginia. She had suggested the restaurant, explaining that it was her favourite and a popular meeting spot among her friends. While the majority of Vietnamese restaurants in the region specialise in southern and central Vietnamese cuisine, Minh’s is famous for being the only northern Vietnamese restaurant in the area. Originally from Hanoi, Mr. Minh’s extensive menu serves a combination of his northern specialities, along with favourites of his wife, who is originally from the south. “It doesn’t matter where we’re from,” says Mr. Minh, taking a break from cooking, “as long as we can make and eat good food together.” Over plates of lemongrass tofu, green papaya salad and snails, Van Anh discusses Washington’s Vietnamese community and reminisces about life in Hanoi. “I have many Vietnamese friends who live near me and we see each other every
week for parties,” she says. “We always bring Vietnamese food to eat.” There are also yearly celebrations of all the major Vietnamese holidays. Both the Eden Center and Vietnam House, the cultural centre attached to the Vietnamese Embassy, hold major Tet parties, and all festivals are celebrated throughout the community. Although Van Anh loves her life in Washington, she says she hopes one day to move home to where family and friends are plentiful and there is less concern about money. “Despite all the difficulties, I enjoy living here for now, but I feel mentally safer back in Hanoi,” she explains, referring to the lower cost of living and her strong support network back in Vietnam. “There is a very tight Vietnamese community here, but everyone is so busy, we have to make appointments just to see each other.” Back at the Eden Center, we sit in the
sun watching the throngs of visitors shop for their favourite foods, visit the many beauty salons, and catch up with old friends. Besides me, my mother-in-law is eagerly finishing her banh mi, her previous trepidation at ordering the strange sounding food long forgotten.
Not Just a Sandwich “It’s just a warm sandwich,” I had reassured her as the server passed over the tightly-wrapped, fragrant package. But the delight in her eyes as she finishes the final mouthful of lemongrass beef tells me that she did not consider this “just a sandwich”. “How have I never had this before?” she exclaims, grinning. “If this is Vietnam, then I can’t wait to get there.” Navigating our way among the cars in the parking lot, Vietnamese melodies ring in our ears, and the sweet taste of fish sauce lingers on our tongues.
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DAY TRIPPER
HANOI
The Mountain Valley On a spontaneous day trip with her sister in tow, Karen Hewell arrives in Thung Nai Valley to find a stretching lake surrounded by mountains that the tourist trail seems to have forgotten
I
t’s just before 9am and my sister and I are packed two to a seat in a dilapidated Mercedes Sprinter with no air conditioning. We only just left My Dinh Stadium, where we arrived to hoards of people rushing towards buses and minivans bound for nearby cities. We had jumped on this particular bus to Hoa Binh just in the nick of time — as we were heaving our daypacks into the open door and climbing in, the vehicle was already at a slow roll. Now, we are crammed in a claustrophobic back seat, wondering if this will be worth it. The day beforehand, a friend had told me about Thung Nai, a mountain valley in Cao Phong District just outside of Hoa Binh City. My sister — visiting from the US — had been in Vietnam for two weeks. By now, I feel like little more than a half-baked tour guide, having spent most of the previous bit dragging her along the beaten track alongside masses of backpackers and finicky
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tourists. When my friend off-handedly mentioned that Thung Nai was blissfully void of international tourists, I saw my opportunity. I gaze across the seat towards my sister, who’s hugging her backpack to her chest looking battle weary but hopeful. I feel a pang of guilt, since I haven’t yet told her that after we arrive in Hoa Binh, I’m not actually sure what to do next. The van drops us at a derelict bus station flanked with unmarked, tarp-covered food stalls and little else. I realise quickly that the only information I have to go on was that Thung Nai was supposedly just outside of Hoa Binh, and that we could get there by taxi or motorbike. “Where to now?” My sister has her pack slung over her shoulder and is staring at me. I try to look assured, staring around and saying something about catching a taxi. I have no idea how far we still have left to go — the
Google Maps image shows Thung Nai as a blue blip along the Da River, but I don’t see any water within walking distance. Finally, I wave over a taxi from a company I’ve never heard of and say simply, “Thung Nai?”
Mountain Roads on Top of the World The taxi rounds a corner and sets off down a highway that looks like it heads straight into a nearby mountain. Before we jumped in, the taxi driver had said 20 kilometres and another VND200,000 to get to Thung Nai. Soon we’re hurtling along an undulating road as it winds through a canopy of green foliage, too dense on either side to see anything beyond a few feet into the surrounding forest. The taxi driver swerves down a looping decline before throwing the car into a lower gear and rounding a tight corner. Just past the curve, the foliage on the right hand side of the road dives abruptly into the valley below
in sweeping emerald cascades. As the car trudges up a steep incline, the entire valley opens up into a panorama of white clouds over endless blue water. My sister’s face is pressed up against the window in awe. “This was so worth it,” she says. I breathe a sigh of relief.
Traversing the Valley By 11am we are sitting on the deck of a rusty mint-green pontoon boat, a makeshift tour vessel that sputters along the lake between massive, lush mountains rising up from the water’s quiet surface. We set off from a small, earthen dock at Ngoi Hoa Village, a tiny township perched along the water’s edge and home to the Muong ethnic minority. Their thatched roof houses line the road as it descends towards the valley,
and their dock is the gateway to the water. They own the boat we are sitting on now, firing up the vessel’s aching engines when intermittent groups of tourists arrive. Locals say that Thung Nai Valley was once home to herds of deer that roamed its formerly dry landscape. Thus the name — Vietnamese for ’Valley of the Deer’. Now the days of its wildlife are past, replaced by the roaming boats that connect the floating villages and tiny islands to the mainland. Most visitors that come to Thung Nai jump on a boat to get to the valley’s few destinations. Along the edges of one island — and reached only by climbing a steep walkway that ascends the island’s edge at a 45-degree angle — is the windmill, a popular spot for visitors to stay overnight and take boat journeys to the floating
villages 20 minutes away. Further into the valley are hidden natural wonders that most assume are reserved for Tam Coc or Halong Bay. Thac Bo grotto has the same stalactite and stalagmite formations as Halong Bay’s Surprise Cave, but on a smaller scale. We are content to stay on the deck of the pontoon boat the entire day. Sailing through Thung Nai is a visual feast without ever having to set foot on land, and stopping off at any of the sights is just an added bonus. There’s something particularly peaceful about sailing at a crawl with nowhere to go. The journey to Thung Nai is fairly rough, but the scenery here makes even the trip back to Hanoi seem worthwhile. A day of aimless sailing is certainly enough for both of us.
Getting There Thung Nai Valley is 20km southwest of Hoa Binh City in Cao Phong District. To get there head to Hoa Binh and take the Highway 6 bypass out of the city towards Cao Phong and Tan Lac. After 7km, turn right onto Tay Tien (Highway 435) and head towards Binh Thanh. At Binh Thanh turn left towards Cang Thung Nai, which is the main port area in Thung Nai Valley. Hoa Binh City is about 90km from central Hanoi. Buses for Hoa Binh leave from My Dinh Bus Station in Hanoi.
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AIRLINES
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AIR ASIA
DALAT / AROUND HANOI / HANOI - INTERNATIONAL / HANOI – MID-RANGE / HANOI – BUDGET / HCMC - INTERNATIONAL / HCMC - DELUXE / HCMC - MID-RANGE / HCMC - BUDGET / HOI AN & DANANG / HUE & LANG CO / NHA TRANG / PHAN THIET & MUI NE / PHONG NHA / PHU QUOC / SAPA / VUNG TAU & HO TRAM / TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI / TRAVEL SERVICES – ELSEWHERE DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS
$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888 anamandara-resort.com
DALAT PALACE
$$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444 dalatpalace.vn
BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY
$$$ Tel: 0933 446542 bhayacruises.com Experience breathtaking tours of the serene Halong Bay, aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three– night trips with a wide range of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.
CUC PHUONG
$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006 cucphuongtourism.com
DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999 dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.
EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY
$$$$ Tel: (04) 3935 1888 emeraude-cruises.com Reproductions, of 19th– century paddle steamers, trawl around Halong Bay in colonial style. A classic experience, complete with, overnight accommodations in impeccable cabins suites.
LA FERME DU COLVERT
$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh, Tel: 02183 825662 etoile-des-mers.com
LA VIE VU LINH
$ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743 lavievulinh.com
DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365 dalattrainvilla.com Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.
TRUNG CANG HOTEL
$ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663
AROUND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL
$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031) 388 0888 pearlriverhotel.vn
MAI CHAU LODGE
$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh, Tel: (0218) 386 8959 maichaulodge.com
NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY
$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108 novotelhalong.com.vn
TAM COC GARDEN RESORT Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu, Ninh Binh. Tel: (030) 249 2118 contact@tamcocgarden. com tamcocgarden.com Surrounded by rice fields and spectacular karsts, Tam Coc Garden is a haven of peace, an oasis of serenity and understated luxury. Spacious rooms with rustic and chic décor, a pool with breathtaking views, a beautiful garden, and panoramic views over the fields and mountains. The perfect place to relax.
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HANOI - INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories.
DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555 www.hanoi-daewoohotel. com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property.
FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 www.fortuna.vn This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.
HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites con-
tain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.
INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental. com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club.
JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 jwmarriotthanoi.com From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre.
MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688 maydeville.com The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action.
MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied.
MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hanoi. com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.
PULLMAN HOTEL
$$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0808 pullman-hanoi.com With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.
www.airasia.com
AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn
AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn
AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com
CATHAY PACIFIC 5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/ vn
CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com
JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com
JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn
SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 www.sheraton.com/hanoi Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.
SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.
KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com
LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com
MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines. com
SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com
THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn
TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerair.com
VIETJETAIR www.vietjetair.com
VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com
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SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.
HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.
GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL
$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969 goldensilkhotel.com Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine.
MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL
$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999 hanovahotel.com A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar.
MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including four suites.
HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms start-
ing at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.
HCMC - INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL
$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.
DUXTON HOTEL
$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2999 saigon.duxtonhotels.com Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets, the Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym, spa, and fine dining.
buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.
NEW WORLD HOTEL
$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.
PARK HYATT
$$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool.
PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE
$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777 equatorial.com/hcm This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino.
$$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullmanhotels.com Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix.
HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON
REX HOTEL
EQUATORIAL
$$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777 hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services.
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON
$$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.
LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON
$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333 legendsaigon.com Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with
$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2185 rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history the Rex’s open–air fifth–floor bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now five-star property, boasts designer fashion and a shopping arcade.
This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a 4th floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant.
panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.
HCMC - DELUXE CONTINENTAL
SHERATON
$$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.
SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA
$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.
WINDSOR PLAZA
$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688 windsorplazahotel.com The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb
$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201 continentalhotel.com.vn This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.
HOTEL MAJESTIC
$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5517 majesticsaigon.com.vn
NORFOLK HOTEL
$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.
NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE
$$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3822 4866 novotel-saigon-centre.com Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.
STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL
$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888 starcitysaigon.vn The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.
HCMC - MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON
$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914 kimdohotel.com
EMM HOTEL 157 Pasteur, Q3 A sleek, contemporary three-star hotel that mixes vintage appeal and modern chic thanks to a subdued palette of white and grey around two ‘pop’ colours: azalea pink and green hot pepper. Part of the Thien Minh Group that includes
Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 riverside-apartments.com Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.
RIVERSIDE HOTEL
$$$$$ 18–19-20 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417 riversidehotelsg.com
Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
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DESTINATION ZERO ANA MANDARA VILLAS DALAT
Photos by Kyle Phanroy
travel
Y
ou can usually judge a place on the quality of its bathrobes. Your average city hotel trafficks in waffle-weaved cotton, not particularly luxurious but good for the moderate climate of your temperature-controlled room. The more upmarket, boutique-style hotels go the microfibre route — lightweight yet plush and warm, with strands thinner than silk. Ana Mandara goes the microfibre route — not solely out of luxurious pretensions, but also because it gets chilly in its villa rooms. Especially at night. This straddle of authenticity is what so many resort hotels try to do, but so often get wrong. It’s not easy to be part of a place and still insulate against its inconveniences. Built on nearly 100 years of history, Ana Mandara’s strength is its authenticity. When the original management company, Six Senses, started on the eight years of rehabilitation necessary to get the resort into opening day shape in 2006 “it was really badly damaged”, says tour supervisor Nguyen Van Tan. “They did a lot of renovations... Before, if you see the pictures, it was really in bad condition.” With 14 of the 17 villas onsite dating from the 1920s village they were originally part of, the grandeur of the bygone era surrounds you, swallows you whole. But that doesn’t mean you can’t choose between 12 different types of scented pillows. You can.
The Romantic Present Now managed by Emeralda, Ana Mandara’s 71 separate accommodations — many with functioniong fireplaces — sit at an elevation of 1,500 metres above sea level, nestled on the edge of the city in Dalat’s western highlands. It has a spa and cosy central restaurant, where many of the guests seem to gravitate during their stays. A classic Citroën sits in the front lot, ready to chug its way to the most picturesque sites in the city. Each of the villas is distinct — not only in terms of the level of accommodation they provide, but in architecture and layout. By the entrance, a crumbling gate greets people — though newly constructed, it feels like one of the oldest features of the resort. The Fromagerie Maître Pierre, now just letters painted over a vacant garage, is what remains of a failed attempt to start a French cheese making shop three years ago. The oldest-looking things at Ana Mandara are actually quite new. As far as the exact history that surrounds guests at every turn, no-one seems to know — although some villas hold nonspecific titles like ‘The Archaelogist’s Villa’ and ‘The Scientist’s Villa’. And maybe that’s for the best. Ana Mandara is villa culture with upkept paint, and it doesn’t so much embrace Dalat’s romantic past as find a way to align it with the present. — Ed Weinberg For more information, head to anamandara-resort.com
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travel Victoria Hotels and Buffalo Tours.
Looking for something? Missed a previous issue? Find it all online at www.wordvietnam.com. Only a click away.
(0511) 384 7888 furamavietnam.com
LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2
$$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926 lanlanhotel.com.vn
THAO DIEN VILLAGE
$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2222 thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style hotel and spa offers fine Italian, Thai and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view that overlook the bank of the Saigon River, this is truly someplace special.
THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL
$$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966 alcovehotel.com.vn
HCMC - BUDGET DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992 ducvuonghotel.com Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area.
DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699 dunahotel.com
HONG HOA HOTEL
$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915 honghoavn.com
HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA
$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234 danang.regency.hyatt.com The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.
LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI
$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 354 5105 domainedetamhai.com
LIFE RESORT HOI AN
$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 391 4555 life-resorts.com
MERCURE DANANG
$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777 mercure-danang.com
PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 395 8888 pullman-danang.com Located on the white sands of Bac My An beach close to both Danang and Hoi An, the welcoming and modern Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for a dynamic escape. Perfect for a family holiday or a romantic beach getaway.
SINH HUONG HOTEL
$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4648 sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An www.anbangbeachretreat. com
CUA DAI
$ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231 hotelcuadai-hoian.com/
DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800 danangbeachresort.com.vn
FURAMA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
THE NAM HAI
$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000 ghmhotels.com Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre– programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.
VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT AND SPA Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510) 392 7040 victoriahotels.asia
HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO $$$$
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Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800 angsana.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.
BANYAN TREE LANG CO
$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888 banyantree.com/en/ lang_co Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods.
LA RESIDENCE
$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475 la–residence–hue.com
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL
$ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736 hoangphuonghotel.com
154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates.
SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222 sixsenses.com/resorts/ ninh-van-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.
SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000 sheraton.com/nhatrang
SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA
$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 382 0999 sunrisenhatrang.com.vn
WHALE ISLAND RESORT
$$ Tel: (058) 384 0501 whaleislandresort.com
NHA TRANG
PHAN THIET & MUI NE
EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA
ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT AND SPA
$$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222 sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/ destination 2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.
JUNGLE BEACH RESORT
$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384 junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.
MIA RESORT NHA TRANG
$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666 mianhatrang.com
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG
$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900 novotel-nhatrang.com This four-star hotel with
$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 374 3777 allezboo.com This resort offers exotic Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms, fresh seafood, Vietnamese cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing and parasailing.
BLUE OCEAN RESORT
$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322 blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com
COCO BEACH
$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111 cocobeach.net With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.
MIA RESORT MUI NE
$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440
miamuine.com
com.vn
PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT AND SPA
THANH DAT
$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222 princessannam.com
VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA
$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000 victoriahotels.asia Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.
PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR
$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844 easytigerphongnha@gmail. com A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.
HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY
$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182 phong-nha-homestay.com
PEPPER HOUSE
$ Tel: 01678 731560 pepperhouse-homestay.com
PHONG NHA FARMSTAY
$$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5135 phong-nha-cave.com The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.
PHONG NHA LAKE RESORT
$$ Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5999 phongnhalakehouse.com
SAIGON - PHONG NHA
$$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016 sgphongnhahotel@yahoo.
$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7328 thanhdatphongnha.com
PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT
$$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998 beachclubvietnam.com A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.
CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: (077) 399 5895 centarahotelsresorts.com
LA VERANDA
$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: (077) 398 2988 laverandaresorts.com
MANGO BAY
$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207 mangobayphuquoc.com An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.
SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL
$$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946 catcathotel.com The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces.
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales) topasecolodge.com With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows
travel with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.
cling and motorbike tours.
REX HOTEL TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 0203 872404 topasecolodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, 25 individual lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours.
VICTORIA SAPA
$$$ Tel: 0203 871522 victoriahotels.asia
VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE
$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553 binhanvillage.com
CON DAO RESORT
$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939 condaoresort.vn
HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525 hotramresort.com This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools.
HO TRAM SANCTUARY
$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631 sanctuary.com.vn The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cy-
$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135 rexhotelvungtau.com
SIX SENSES CON DAO
$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222 sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao
THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888 thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include a 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities. The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room tower is on track to open in 2015.
TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI
corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.
EXOTISSIMO 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150 www.exotissimo.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.
HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more wellworn destinations.
BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful. BTA customizes leisure and
Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/ vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture.
SYRENA CRUISES 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214
www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for. Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action. All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.
TRAVEL SERVICES – ELSEWHERE BEENINASIA.COM www.beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary.
BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170 www.buffalotours.com This premium travel agency helps travelers select their destinations and organize their trips. From corporate
travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam.
EXOTISSIMO 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19 exotissimo.com A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.
CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING SERVICE 12th floor, 242 Cong Quynh, District 1, HCMC Call center: 1900 5454 40 www.en.chudu24.com info.en@chudu24.com Chudu24.com - the locally famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is known for having the best prices and reliable service. If you are looking for great local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com. It has been the #1 Vietnam hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.
HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).
www.cocobeach.net
paradise@cocobeach.net
INDOCHINA LAND 61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com
Coco Beach Resort
58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, W. Ham Tien Phan Thiet, Vietnam +84-(0)62-3847111 / 2 / 3
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TRAVEL PROMOS
FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744 flightravelco.com Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.
FLY VIETNAM flyvietnam.com
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel: 0904 193308 intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales
MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE 108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne, Tel: 0908 400108 mantasailing.org
TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754 terraverdetravel.com If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well.
TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436 tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn
VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585 vietnamvespaadventure. com Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. Englishspeaking tour guides lead the way.
Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best
PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH
‘World’s Best’ Hotels Here in Vietnam Last month, more than 17,000 readers of the US’s leading travel mag Travel + Leisure voted three hotels in Vietnam onto their authoritative ‘World’s Best’ list. The grand Sofitel Legend Metropole in Hanoi ranked 66th in Top 100 Hotels Overall and a sparkling 7th in Top City Hotels in Asia. Park Hyatt Saigon also landed a position in Top City Hotels in Asia — coming in at number 24. Meanwhile The Nam Hai in Hoi An rose up two spots from last year, to take 10th place in the category Top Resorts in Asia. The rankings are based on readers’ ratings of rooms, facilities, location, service, food and value.
Dalat Highland Retreat @ Ana Mandara Villas Dalat anamandara-resort.com Surround yourself with the breathtaking environment of Dalat, by staying at this month’s Destination Zero-reviewed highlands resort. From now till Sep. 30, this special offer starts at VND2.69 million per night — with a minimum of a two-night stay. This package includes daily breakfast, yoga classes, and a daily lunch or dinner or a daily 60-minute spa treatment, and can be applied to any level of accommodation.
Saturday from 5.30pm throughout August and September. Including a wide range of seafood such as swimmer crab, prawn, salmon, maki rolls and clam, the spread also includes gourmet salads, slow roasted meats, hot mains and desserts such as a chocolate fountain and liquid nitrogen ice-cream. The cost is VND650,000 nett per person. For bookings call 0511 395 8888
La Residence Hue
Luxury for Every Wallet
la-residence-hue.com La Residence Hotel and Spa knows you want to visit. Now they’re calling your bluff — make your resort-lust public, and the good people of Facebook will let you know how much you really want it. By going to their Facebook page at facebook.com/laresidence.hue, you can enter an essay to be voted on via likes — the writer with the most likes will get a free twonight weekend stay in one of their fabulous, Art Deco-styled Superior River View rooms. Locals and expat residents can enter until Aug. 14.
@ Van Chai Resort vanchai-vn.com Van Chai Resort in Sam Son, Thanh Hoa, is helping everyone enjoy the summer months in luxury, with special deals on stays throughout August. Three-day, two-night accommodation starts at VND5,268,000, with a Superior Garden View room. Add in a complimentary welcome drink coupon at Taipan Bar, a special three-course set menu at Ocean Restaurant and a 30-minute treatment at Co Nature Spa, and this travel package is something everyone can get excited about.
The Taste of the Sea
Ana Mandara, Dalat. Photo by Kyle Phanroy
@ Pullman Danang Mövenpick Hanoi moevenpick-hotels.com/hanoi pullman-danang.com Restaurant Epice at Pullman Danang Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is celebrating the summer months with is running a seafood buffet every
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special deals on accommodation. With the month of August Summer Sunshine offer, stay in luxury in Hanoi with 25 percent discounts.
Exotissimo’s Summer Deals exotissimo.com Exotissimo, the name in luxury travel, is helping you spend your summer months in beautiful destinations around the world. Explore the exotic corners of Southeast Asia with deals for Sri Lanka, Indonesia, and Myanmar. Spend eight days in Sri Lanka and visit Colombo, Dumbulla, Kandy, and Nuwara Eliya in a special package starting from VND23,925,000++ for a double room. Head in luxury to Bali, Indonesia on a shoestring with special six-day packages starting at VND17,146,000++ for a double room. Or, opt for Myanmar with the Green Season Luxury Package. Eight day trips start from VND23,510,000++ for a double room. Or stay close to home, with wellpriced options in Vung Tau, Hoi An, Hue and Halong Bay, such as The Grand Ho Tram Strip in Vung Tau from VND2,790,000 for a grand room, or opt for a stay at The Nam Hai in Hoi An from VND7,177,000 for a double room or villa.
Hanoi
RECALLING HANOI // COFFEE CUP // FOOD PROMOS // THE ALCHEMIST // THE THERAPIST // MEDICAL BUFF // BOOK BUFF PHOTO BY JURA CULLEN wordvietnam.com | August 2014 Word | 137
hanoi
old quarter
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES & LIQUOR / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS
BARS & CLUBS CHEEKY QUARTER
LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01679 647254 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late. Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.
DRAGONFLY
DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 4926 2177 11am to late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter for dancing on the weekends. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident looking to get up on the dance floor. If you don’t feel like dancing, relax upstairs with shisha and friends with one of the two lounges on the second floor. The sister venue on Phung Hung has a bigger menu and an earlier opening hour (11am instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the shisha, pool table and dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.
FATCAT BAR
DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211 linkhanoi.com 4pm to late Straddling Bia Hoi Corner and the cobblestoned end of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging. Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting at VND500,000 and a DJ on the decks make up the mix.
FUNKY BUDDHA
ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3292 7614 8pm to late
HAIR OF THE DOG
LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE 32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0947 893232 10am to late
HALF MAN HALF NOODLE
LATE DIVE BAR 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1943 3pm to late
IRISH WOLFHOUND
IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821 irishwolfhoundpub.com 8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor. Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.
LA BOMBA LATINA
LATIN BAR 46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0917 245155
LE PUB
BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL RESTOBAR 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 2104 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele. A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events.
MAO’S RED LOUNGE
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104
MOJITO BAR
CONTEMPORARY COCKTAIL BAR 19 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/mojito.bar. lounge Decked out in wooden pan-
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elling and bare brick, this tastefully designed watering whole in the Old Quarter is known for its prize-winning bartender and excellent cocktails
verted, colonial-era villa, the concept of the third Joma is the same as at its two other cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter, and a great selection of sandwiches, bagels, salads, cakes, ice-cream and tea.
smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
THE CART
POLITE PUB
LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches.
ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087 Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu.
SPY BAR
HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH 12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802
TEMPLE BAR
NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR 8 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6675 7908
TET BAR
LATE-NIGHT BAR 2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3050
THE SPOT
LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1874 8am to midnight
CAFES CAFE PHO CO
COFFEE SHOP WITH A VIEW Back of 11 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8153
JOMA
INTERNATIONAL CAFE 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem joma.biz Housed in a two-storey con-
COFFEE/BAKERY 222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am to 8pm
MOCA CAFE
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. (04) 3825 6334 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don’t let this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.
PUKU
INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-
SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 10 Tho Xuong, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small a cozy café hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.
CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BOO SKATESHOP
SKATESHOP 84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147 Booskateshop.com
CONTRABAND
CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE 23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month
with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.
L’ATELIER
WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2419 ateliervietnam.com The downtown store of this well-known chic boutique. Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. Offers both ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX 5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.
THREE TREES
JEWELLERY 15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725
CRAFTS & FURNITURE MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and
hanoi Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 2645 metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital will see them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
EAT AL FRESCO’S
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm
CAFE DE PARIS
FRENCH BISTRO 12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327 cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisian-styled bistro and bar. Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3993 1399 10am to 10.30pm A slither of a joint serving up the same fare that the lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.
GREEN MANGO
WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9916 greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm
GREEN TANGERINE
FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286 greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639 10am to midnight
LITTLE INDIA
INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE 32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1859 littleindianhn@gmail.com
LA RESTAURANT
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 9052 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-
floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. Has a second garden restaurant on Xuan Dieu.
LITTLE HANOI
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 8333 7.30am to 11pm
MEDITERRANEO
PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.
MILLENIUM
PAN-FRENCH 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium restaurant is the minimal and chic result of a Café Des Arts makeover. The street’s new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking goes over two floors and has a welcome and inviting three-level outdoor terrace high up amid the concrete and cables of the Old Quarter.
NAMASTE HANOI
PAN-INDIAN 46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400 namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery.
OLD HANOI
GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and min-
iature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout. Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.
etarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle salad, along with some falafel and western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.
THE LOFT STOP CAFÉ PROVECHO
TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 223966 The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.
SOUTHGATE
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1979 southgatehanoi.com
THE KAFE
CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE 18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245 thekafe.vn Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.
THE MOOSE AND ROO
CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT 42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever changing imagery on the walls.
TAMARIND
CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat. Features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has Asian favourites like veg-
FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 8am to 11pm
SPICE
CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580
TANDOOR
PAN-INDIAN 24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 5359 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine. Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.
ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAFÉ
16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253
FITNESS & YOGA STUDIO FIVE
YOGA & WELLNESS 5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515 http://studio5.vn facebook.com/yogastudio5 6am to 8pm An international and professional Yoga Studio providing more than 20 different yoga styles such as: Hatha Yoga, Yoga Therapy, Ball Yoga, Props Yoga, Hot Yoga (with infrared heater), Power Yoga and much more, with a flexible schedule of 10 classes per day. Bring harmony back into your life — Studio Five is the perfect place to reconnect your mind with your body.
ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.
GROCERIES & LIQUOR BACCHUS CORNER
WINE RETAILER 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country, the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER 59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.
HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899
SUPERMARKETS BIG C SUPERMARKET 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay
CITIMART HANOI TOWERS 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung
FIVIMART 210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www. fivimart.com.vn
HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da
INTIMEX 22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da
METRO 126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem
wordvietnam.com | August 2014 Word | 139
RECALLING HANOI PART FOUR
L
andscape is entangled with history and people’s lives. No matter how young we are or what social position we have, we all have stories to tell. Recalling Hanoi is my vision of Hanoi, a tapestry woven out of portraits, people’s stories and the urban landscape that
hosts them. I ask people living in the city to tell me about a place in Hanoi that holds memories. It can be about anything — a personal story intertwined with history; a great event; everyday little stories that our lives are made of. These stories, along with the photographs of the storyteller and the
location, provide depth. Through this collection I am attempting to create an intimate, multi-layered portrait of this city through its collective memory. The hope is that the audience will connect to other people’s lives, and also to their own memories in an attempt to understand this beautiful city.
Square meeting hall, where the Vietnam National Assembly House stands now. While waiting we rehearsed our songs. An officer yelled “He is coming!“ and everybody turned to look for him. He wore his white khaki uniform and waved. The students all stood up and rushed to him. I held my photo high and jumped to get his attention, but he didn’t see me. Soon the ceremony began. He gave a speech, saying we had to study hard and be good as we were the future of Vietnam. Then an officer gave him candies to give
to us, we all got two each. Some children held out both hands and tried to get more, but he laughed and said he wouldn’t fall for that. At the end, he tried to leave, but we all rushed him again. I tried again to reach him with my dad’s photo but I couldn’t. I felt so guilty that when I got home I gave my dad the candies. My parents proudly showed the candies to all the neighbours — everybody was speaking about my special day. I still feel the same chills and excitement when I think about it today.
Vu Thi Thai Huong
Meeting Him Location: Ba Dinh Meeting Hall, Ba Dinh Square When I was in third grade I was chosen to attend the National Meeting of Uncle Ho’s Good Children. It was a celebration of the best students from the north of Vietnam. It was the occasion of a lifetime — to meet Ho Chi Minh, such an honour! The night before, my whole family was so excited nobody slept. My father had met him during the revolution at Viet Bac and had a photo with him — he asked me to get him to autograph it. On the day, I was wearing my best clean clothes, my white shirt and my red scarf. We went to Ba Dinh
hanoi
BY JULIE VOLA
Sophie Le
My Grandmother’s House Location: Hoa Lo Prison In the early 1990s my grandmother was imprisoned for illegally giving a loan with a high interest rate. She spent five years in the infamous Hoa Lo prison, formerly a French prison for political prisoners and then for American prisoners of war. I was very young and did not understand what it was really about, but my grandfather would bring me to see her every weekend. To me it was like going to my grandmother’s house. Every year during Tet Holiday it’s almost like a tradition in my family to
tell the story of my third birthday. That weekend, my parents decided I would not go visit my grandmother because it was bad luck to do such a sad thing on a birthday. I was so young that I couldn’t understand and I was very upset. So I decided to take my birthday cake and go by myself to see my grandma. I ran away from home at three years old with a cake. Somehow I could remember the way until I arrived at an intersection, where I became very confused and got lost. I asked a policeman if he knew where my grandmother’s house was, but I could not
tell him which street and I did not know it was the prison. Because I could remember how to go to my house, he brought me back home. My family were worried sick and some of them had gone looking for me. The next day I made my parents buy the exact same cake so I could bring it to my grandmother over the weekend with my grandfather. This is the fourth excerpt from Julie Vola’s work, Recalling Hanoi. The work is presently being serialised in Word. For more information email juls.vola@gmail.com
wordvietnam.com | August 2014 Word | 141
hanoi
COFFEE CUP OCTOBER CAFÉ
F
or many Tay Ho-ans, walking along the lake’s southern perimeter can be a constant reminder of a paradox of choice: so many cafés to choose from, all of them the same. After a few months oscillating between the same three places for my afternoon ca phe sua da, I (and my rambunctious cocker spaniel, Rosie) went out in search of something new. That day we discovered a new hangout, vastly different from the hoards of stalelooking rivals offering the usual ca phe and banh mi options. Having only opened its doors three months ago, October Café provides Hanoians with a quiet and quirky alternative to chill out and sip their egg-coffee, or, if you’ve finished being productive for the day, ca phe ruon rum (rum coffee). I should disclose from the outset that this place is not your typical café. They don’t even have a barista machine. Or a barista. But what they lack in western coffee options, they make up for with
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Photos by David Harris
eccentric Vietnamese brews and funky spaces.
The Idiosyncrasies As you walk through the entry, you immediately feel like you’ve stepped into some kind of quirky Brick Lane antique store. The walls are adorned with antique frosted-glass lamps, banjos and vinyl records. The menus are handwritten into recycled Parisian notebooks and the makeshift shelves are lined with a hodgepodge of second-hand novels (written in Tieng Viet), acetate vases and vintage rotary dial phones. The eastern wall has also been cleverly transformed into a blackboard with chalk murals. The café’s staff, although not great English speakers, are very friendly and extremely attentive. For example, when I complained about the ear-shattering volume at which Enrique Iglesias’ Why Oh Why was being played, it was promptly turned down. See? Attentive. Be warned that this is not a place to
come and eat big, hearty meals. Food options are limited to garlic bread (VND50,000), ambiguous sounding ham bread (VND80,000) and potato chips (VND40,000). However, homemade yoghurts are available in a good selection of flavours, including matcha, raspberry, mango and chocolate (VND40,000). October also offers the chance to try a signature coconut or kakao-infused coffee for VND30,000. Or, if you’re feeling adventurous, you can throw back some VND50,000 mojitos or tequila sunrises. If not, the café also offers a range of freshly-made smoothies, flavoured with custard-apple, mango or coconut ice-cream available for VND40,000. The lasting impression is that October has recreated the same cool retro vibe that the Cong Ca Phe's do so well, but without the crowds or the price tag. This eccentric café-slash-bar oozes with personality, but still manages to feel modest and humble. — David Mann October Café is at 20 Ven Ho, Tay Ho, Hanoi
hanoi HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS)
hoan kiem
THEATRE GROUP hitshanoi.com
L’ESPACE
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / CAFES / CINEMAS / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / EAT / CLASSES / GROCERIES & LIQUOR
PARIS DELI
Bà i
Triệu
Hàng
Hu ế
Phan
Bà
Chu Trin h
Sứ
Q uá n Sứ
Đinh Ti ên H o à n g
Hưng
Phùng
Hà n g G à
Hàng Điếu
Hưng Phùng
Quán Nguy ễn Du
Trần Hưn gĐ ạo
Lê Văn H u ư
h Hàn T
uyên
MODEL CLUB
CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung 8pm to late
PHUC TAN
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem
RELAX BAR
HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem
ROOFTOP
SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901 8am to midnight
TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE
ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE 24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.
ZONE 17
CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish. Also does filled baguettes and a larger cafécum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
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FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 Hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am La Fée Verte (or the ‘Green Fairy’) is a metaphor for the decadence of another age, an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The signature bar of the Hotel de l’Opéra Hanoi where, just as in Paris at the dawn of the 20th century, the making of an evening drink a lavish event of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge atmosphere, great music and ultra-contemporary interior design combine to bring a genuine sense of occasion to after-dark in the capital.
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CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/bar84hanoi Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.
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WILD WEST THEME BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822
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HOAN KIEM DISTRICT
BAMBOO BAR 17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem The first bar in what will eventually (hopefully) be a
zone dedicated to bars and restaurants. A pool table, a square bar in the middle of the room and a barbecue until the early hours — there’s quite an atmosphere in this pleasant watering hole.
CAFES CIAO CAFÉ
RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.
TWITTER BEANS COFFEE 45B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760 twitterbeanscoffee.com
CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE
ARTS CINEMA 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.
CLUBS & SOCIETIES AMERICAN CLUB
EVENT SPACE 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850
FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164 vphanoi-lespace.com
EAT AL FRESCO’S
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm
ANGELINA
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar)
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down. The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.
CAFÉ LAUTREC
MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare. Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contem-
porary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.
JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE
STEAKHOUSE / GRILL 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388 alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight Then newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes – lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” – but fine imported steads can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.
JASPA’S
INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325 alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. A place with something for everyone, it has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is mainly New World. Also has a spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.
LA BADIANE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night. A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you as you enter this contemporary French restaurant. Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.
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PANE E VINO WINE SHOP
WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER 10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226
WORK ROOM FOUR
ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho workrmfour@gmail.com workrmfour.tumblr.com A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.
BARS & CLUBS 88 LOUNGE
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029 88group.vn 5pm to late A wine bar with a difference, this addition to the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.
WESTERN CANNED FOODS
GROCERY STORE 17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854
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LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
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Tel: 01633 166170 hanoirockcity.com 5pm to midnight With a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has weekly live events featuring bands both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@ hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.
HOUSE OF SON TINH
LIQUOR LOUNGE 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377 sontinh.com 8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.
RED RIVER TEA ROOM
LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE 25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho Open daily from 2pm.
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VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
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DELI / WINE SHOP 6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009 Hanoigourmet.com The long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.
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WINE RETAILER 96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789 Daloc.vn
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BIKING CAFE so 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho kub.vn Think obsession, think motorbikes and you get Kub Cafe, an industrial, warehouse-style watering hole bringing that’s become a favorite of the motorbike clubs. Does good on-the-table bia hoi and runs biking events.
BOOKWORM TOO
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SUPERMARKET Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999
KUB CAFE
regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its mouth-watering burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is most famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi, and always in a frosted mug. For those missing their dose of North American sports, they play all day via satellite on two plasmas.
BOOK SHOPS
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5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City.
ARTS / BARS & CLUBS / BOOK SHOPS / CAFES / CLOTHING / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / EXPAT SERVICES
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WRAP & ROLL
salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.
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CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414 hoteldelopera.com
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SATINE
Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from nearby favorites. Nonsmoking, unpretentious, dog-friendly.
TAY TAP
MEET-UP SPOT 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6917 4pm to late Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with two beers on tap — as well as wine, cocktails and spirits on the shelves — this newcomer venue has a grill menu catering to the tastes of both East and West. For those in search of a good old-fashioned Sloppy Joe or grilled cheese, you’ll be glad to know the kitchen is stocked to the ceiling with comfort foods.
TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL
SPORTS BAR/GRILL 40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838 tracyspub.com 11am to 12am This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with
NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho
CAFES COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240 coffeebean.com 7am to 10pm Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi coffee scene has opened a little closer to town than the first outlet in Pico Mall. Famous for the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee Bean is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Westlake.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
COFFEE/BAKERY 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts,
LA GRACE
ART CAFE & GALLERY 8B/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 666736 lagrace.com.vn 7.15am to 10pm Located on a peaceful street named after the famous painter, To Ngoc Van, La Grace is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: drinks, food, arts and sometimes live music. Clean, comfortable and friendly, the venue has a nice selection of juices and smoothies and a Vietnamese-cum-Japanese food menu put together using organic vegetables. Set lunches cost VND150,000, and the café also has strong WiFi as well as separate nonsmoking and smoking areas.
SAINT HONORE
CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The homely upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.
TET DÉCOR CAFÉ
ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho tet-lifestyle-collection.com 8am to 6pm, Tuesday to Sunday Cloistered among the back
hanoi LE BEAULIEU
FOOD PROMOS
CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm
PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH
LUNO D’AUTUNNO
CLASSIC ITALIAN 27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.
Fortuna gives customers a healthy does of American beef this August
Lunch Break Gets Luxurious Hotel De L’Opera Hanoi is setting a new standard for the lunch break, with promotions throughout the month of August on daytime lunches designed for the office workers of the city. At Café Lautrec, enjoy a three-course lunch with colleagues for VND360,000++ and taste a selection of top-notch Vietnamese and international delicacies. For something a little bit more adventurous, opt for a touch of Tuscany with an imaginative Tuscan-inspired set menu from VND420,000++ per person. Into the evening hours, enjoy the Tuscan set menu for dinner from VND520,000++ on special request. Hotel De L’Opera is located at 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem
Little Hanoi, Big Taste Little Hanoi Restaurant is spicing up the late lunch with special deals on sandwich combos. From 3pm to 5pm, enjoy a set for VND85,000, and a buy-one-get-one-free deal on beer and wine by the glass afterwards, 9pm to 11pm. Little Hanoi Restaurant is located at 23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem
French Tastes at JW Marriott French Grill Restaurant, the culinary crown jewel of JW Marriott Hotel Hanoi, is putting the skills of their chef team on show with the Chairman’s Menu every day from 6pm until 11pm. The six-course menu is made with the freshest ingredients available that day at the market.
For something a bit more substantial, French Grill’s scrumptious menu of burger and ribs are available on special offer from 6pm to 11pm every Sunday. Swap to something from the sea with lobster specials every Tuesday from 6pm, starting at VND2 million. French Grill Restaurant is located at JW Marriott Hotel Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Hanoi
Tasty Sheraton Sheraton Hanoi Hotel is bringing in a special menu focusing on the tastes of Singapore. Featuring a selection of chilli crab, chicken rice, beef rendang and mango sago salad, Sheraton’s Oven D’Or Restaurant is the best place to get a taste of something a little different. Enjoy lunch menus from VND620,000++ and dinner menus from VND990,000++. For a twist on the dinner date, bring a guest to Oven D’Or on Mondays and Thursdays, and enjoy a buy-one-get-one-free buffet deal. Sheraton Hanoi Hotel’s is located at Alley 1, Au Co, Hanoi
Sofitel Summer Eats Sofitel Plaza Hanoi is bringing in the promotions over the summer at Ming Restaurant, with special deals on dining throughout the month of August. Enjoy a come-four, paythree dining deal on Saturday and Sunday brunches, and an exclusive birthday celebration with a set menu starting at VND1.5 million ++, including a bottle of Monte Alpha for groups of six to 10. As always, enjoy weekday deals on dim sum buffets from VND580,000++
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for adults and VND360,000++ for children. Sofitel Plaza Hanoi is located at 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801 nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm
Lake Views and Great Taste
PANE E VINO
Don’s Bistro Tay Ho is enjoying the lake views through the summer with special deals on drink and dinner combos on weekends and holidays. With a selection of tasty cocktails and top-notch culinary creations in one tasty and affordable package, Don’s might be Hanoi’s favourite summer dining destination, and not just for the view. A two-course menu starts at VND299,000++ with additional charges for drinks. Offer is valid on weekends and holidays from 11am to 5pm. Don’s Bistro is located at 16 Quang An, Tay Ho
PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 8am to 10.30pm Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.
PRESS CLUB
Fortuna Feasts Fortuna Hotel Hanoi has a summer feast in store for the city, and this month is featuring the delectable tastes of the United States with prime beef selections. Enjoy a US Beef Hamburger, seared US Beef Japanese-Style or a stirfried US beef rib at all three of the hotel’s restaurants for lunch and dinner. For something with a taste of the East, head to May Man Restaurant, who once again brings to Hanoi their Dim Sum Mania lunch buffet from 11am to 2pm Monday through Saturday. Enjoy the buffet from VND420,000++, with special buytwo-get-one deals on parties of three. Fortuna Hotel Hanoi is located at 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888 hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list. Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.
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THE ALCHEMIST THE ENERGETIC VALUE OF MONEY
W
hen I heard Vietnam had just launched its first Bitcoin exchange, it prompted me to think about our current global economic system and how it fails to meet the needs of the vast majority of people on the planet. Many analysts in the financial market as well as observers from the metaphysical and spiritual domains insist there needs to be a global overhaul of the economic structure. Perhaps Bitcoin offers a viable option in the exchange-for-value system.
Exchange for Value Wikipedia describes Bitcoin as a digital currency in which transactions can be performed without the need for a central bank. It is a peer-to-peer system of monetary exchange. Peer-to-peer systems inherently have a better exchange for value built into the model. Exchange for value is essentially an exchange of energy. When you reflect on the fact that money is what we use to exchange our life energy, one would hope to get the most value possible.
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Universal Law There are universal laws in the metaphysical and spiritual realm. One of these laws, the Universal Law of Energy Exchange, states that something of equal or higher value must always be given in exchange for value received. To have harmonious, balanced transactions, each individual should reflect on the value exchange they can offer to the world. This may take the form of talent, labour, time, products or services. The individual should strive to keep their ‘accounts’ balanced and fair with each person with whom they interact.
Alternative Models Our present economic model inhibits the creative, more organic exchange of energy between individuals. The centralisation of banks, interest and inflation rates create financial hardship for most on this planet. Other systems such as digital currencies, local currencies or bartering, as well as free resources are just a few alternatives to the current model.
BY KAREN GAY
Some would argue that we need to bring spirituality back into the exchange of money, and that it’s not money that’s the problem but our attitudes vis-a-vis money.
An Infusion of Goodness Fairness has been lost due to the imbalances created by those who control the majority of resources and money in our world. We need to find ways to regain balance with the Universal Law of Energy Exchange. We need to create new means of being fair and balanced in every potential exchange of talents, products and services. Perhaps this is what Bitcoin and other alternatives have to offer. The next time you open your wallet to pay for something, think of the payment as an exchange of energy, infuse it with gratitude and good intentions, since the universe works in dynamic reciprocity. You will receive like in return. Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com
streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an oldfashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations.
nary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.
HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE 68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 848301
THE CART
SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)
CAFÉ / TAPAS BAR 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn 9am to 10pm Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a café that also sells Spanish tapas served up with gin & tonic, if the mood so takes you. Organising bicycle tours, running yoga sessions and holding music concerts in their upstairs cafe area, they also sell, rent and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment. Eclectic? Not a chance!
CLOTHING GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE 36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a madeto-measure service are available at no extra cost.
L’ATELIER
WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758 ateliervietnam.com Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.
COOKING CLASSES HIDDEN HANOI
COOKING CENTRE 147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045 hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culi-
CRAFTS & FURNITURE BETTERWORLD
GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS 8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more.
LA CASA
CONTEMPORARY DESIGN Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084 lacasavietnam.com.vn A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot has everything from beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The items are all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding regions.
MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development nonprofit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.
CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS DON’S TAY HO
BICYCLE RENTALS 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)
CYCLING COLLECTIVE 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is a place for all bicycle lovers! An official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment, the joint not only sells but also rents and fixes bicycles. To add to the eclectic, community spirit they also organise bicycle tours, run yoga sessions, hold music concerts in their upstairs cafe area and run a great menu of Spanish tapas served up, if you so wish, with gin & tonic. Quite a mix!
EAT AL FRESCO’S
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 5322 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm
DA PAOLO
CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.
DALUVA
FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva.com 8am until late A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor.
DON’S TAY HO
CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends 8am to late This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negro ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.
HALIA HANOI
SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3946 0121 thehalia.com Monday – Saturday 11am to 11pm. Closed on Sundays A multi-floored venue with a bar area and a refined dining space. The menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer. Has an extensive wine list.
HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD GRILL
CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 sheraton.com/hanoi 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10pm The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Choose from Black Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and Tenderloin grilled to perfection. Prefer Seafood – no problem, Lobster, Oysters, Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and Crabs are all available for your dining pleasure, as well as an impressive array of wines by the glass & bottle from our
IL FARO
ITALIAN / MEDITERRANEAN Villa 3, Cong Doan Hotel Compound, 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6327 1142 Hidden away in Cong Doan Hotel, this pan-Mediterranean restaurant owned by the same people behind Mediterraneo serves up an assortment of French, Spanish and Italian dishes in a pleasant, white-washed yet Italianinfluenced atmosphere.
INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN 10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668 indiapalacehn@vnn.vn Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor.
J.A.F.A.
INTERNATIONAL G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this
hanoi
THE THERAPIST WORKING IT OUT
This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health counsellor, talks about making decisions and prioritising for the future Dear Douglas, I can’t seem to make decisions. Everyone says, “live in the present”, “seize the day”, “go with the flow”, which I have been doing since graduating from University 10 years ago. Now I see my friends back home settling down with wives and kids and I feel like the things that were fun for me — travelling, partying and meeting new people — don’t seem to give me the pleasure they once did. I feel stuck in Hanoi and hear myself complaining and feeling bored. But when I think of what to do next, nothing sounds good to me. I don’t want to go back home. So I am just floating along, undecided. — Blind to the Future Dear Blind to the Future, I hear a lot from people who feel uncertainty about themselves and where their life is going. Travelling and living abroad can serve to expand who we are, but it can also create confusion about what we want and where we belong. It can also, for some of us, be a way of avoiding or escaping aspects of life we ultimately need to face. Maybe the
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feelings you are experiencing are telling you it is time to explore and understand yourself better. I am also someone who is likely to say, “Live in the present”, but it can’t really be done if it is simply a way to avoid aspects of ourselves. Another way to say that is that it also includes listening to the feelings that are telling you, in the present, to pay attention to yourself. You have a negative outlook and are bored. It sounds like the right time to thoughtfully reflect on the life you are living and whether it is in line with the person you are (or want to be). We all have the need to discover what gives our lives meaning, or, at least, tell us what it means to be true to ourselves. Travelling, partying and meeting new people was congruent with who you were (a chapter in your life), but now you are needing to look a little deeper and work out your priorities — the next chapter. Your friends have partners and children. We all face decisions to partner and have children or not. It sounds like you are wondering if this is something that you want for yourself. Or maybe not. We can easily feel a dissonance or a disconnect
when what we see as our future is not in line with the way we are living now. The challenge for all of us is not about planning the future…it is about being certain that we are living congruently with our priorities in the present, and listening to what our inner wisdom is telling us. The future takes care of itself. Sometimes psychotherapy is helpful in that kind of exploration. It can look at what is unresolved, issues from the past that linger in the subconscious and keep us from our natural growth and development. It can also update us to those things that have become our new priorities. We see life differently as we age and it requires us to adjust our perspective and to rearrange our priorities. My guess is that you are just ready for some thoughtful introspection — a chance to meet yourself in the next chapter of life. I wish you well, — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed
is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 53 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5656 8am to 11pm
KITCHEN
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 30 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Set inside a newly renovated house with a large courtyard, Kitchen is a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothie-style drinks.
R&R TAVERN
RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6295 8215 Now on its third location, this watering hole still lives up to its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter, and of course, some quality live rock music. Its upstairs area is equipped with a sound system and stage setup for weekly shows and events, while the downstairs area houses a classic bar that gives a finishing touch to the friendly community environment.
RASA SINGAPURA
SINGAPORE PERANAKAN CUISINE 185 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3715 2992 rasasingapura-hanoi.com 5pm to midnight This Singapore Peranakan Restaurant serves up authentic, Straits fusion fare emanating from Singapore, Malacca and Penang. Boasting the mouthwatering nasi lemak as its signature dish, all the fare here is homecooked by the owner / partner who spent five years living and studying in Singapore. This is tasty, home-cooked, well-priced fare in a pleasant but tranquil setting.
SAINT HONORE
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 sainthonore.com.vn 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, freshcooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the
bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. Has additional venues at 31 Thai Phien, Hai Ba Trung and Unimart, 8 Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da
THE PIE SHOP
TAKEAWAY PIES 2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 1507 thepieshophanoi@gmail.com Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style savoury pies and rolls. Available in three convenient sizes (mini, regular and large). Enjoy them hot as a takeaway, or frozen to keep for later.
THE SUSHI CLUB
CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE 10A Quang An (ngo 27 Xuan Dieu), Tay Ho Tel: 0934 544263 thesushiclub.info Featuring a delicious combination of contemporary Japanese dishes as well as other traditional Japanese favorites, The Sushi Club combines great cuisine with charming views over West Lake. The ambience is warm and comfortable making it the perfect place for dating, business dinners, meeting friends and family gatherings. Quiet private rooms are available.
EXPAT SERVIES MAID IN VIETNAM
HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3112 maidinvietnam.com Offering a licensed hire service for trained domestic and office housemaids, cooks and nannies. Courses include health checks, housekeeping, safety, basic 1st Aid, courses for external maids and household management for Vietnamese wives of foreigners.
FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS
TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281 elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features topof-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.
HANOI CLUB
COUNTRY CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115 thehanoiclub.com
VIETCLIMB
CLIMBING CENTRE 40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185 vietclimb.vn Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.
ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS
ANNAM GOURMET
GROCERIES / DELI First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487
FIVIMART
SUPERMARKET Second Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1791
KITCHEN ART
KITCHENWARE 38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770 kitchenart.vn Kitchen Art is a little haven for all foodies, cooks and bakers to grow their love and passion for cooking and baking. Come to Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients to cook like a chef, take part in regular demonstrations and workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying the peaceful West Lake view.
L'S PLACE
GROCERY SHOP 3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911
NATURALLY VIETNAM
ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS 4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130 naturallyvietnam.com Offers food and beverage produced in Vietnam with full traceability and strict food safety controls. Meat, egg, milk, fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit juices, liquors, coffee, water, ice cream. Also, every Saturday from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the team convert the store yard into the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for
expats and Vietnamese.
PUNTO ITALIA
COFFEE MACHINES 62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6258 3510 puntoitalia.asia Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their own brand coffee in capsules, ready ground or as the original roasted mix of beans.
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337
THE OASIS
ITALIAN DELI 24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and homemade foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the inhouse kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but wellchosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case. Free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 3701 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.
MEDICAL & DENTAL INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC
MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666 Internationalsos.com Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.
ONE DENTAL CLINIC
DENTISTS 8 Quang An, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6168
WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC 2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555 westcoastinternational.com The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.
hanoi
ba dinh
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / BOOKSHOPS / CAFES / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / COOKING CLASSES / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS / MEDICAL & DENTAL the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.
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BARS & NIGHTCLUBS BARBETTA
ARTSY BAR & CAFE 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134
ETE BAR
FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.
SUMMIT LOUNGE
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR 20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 ext. 5314 4pm to Midnight Sunday to Wednesday, 4pm to 2am Thursday to Saturday
ALTERNATIVE DANCE CLUB 18 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh facebook.com/vaulthanoi The work of Mao, the enigmatic personality behind Mao’s Red Lounge and The
BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM
BOOK SHOP 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho
CAFES CAFÉ GOETHE
ARTS CAFÉ 56 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3734 7395
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 2247 0602 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
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quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 28A Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh (Next to the Flag Tower) Tel: (04) 3823 3339 highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm
MANZI
ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397 facebook.com/manzihanoi A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.
CLUBS & SOCIETIES GOETHE INSTITUT
GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh
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Coach House, this underground homage to nighttime decadence sits in the gap between The Old Quarter and West Lake, bringing in a range of DJs and nightly entertainment. A great addition to the scene.
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Trần Nhân Tông
Tel: (04) 3734 2251 goethe.de/hanoi
COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE
COOKING CENTRE 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088 hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.
EAT AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down. The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.
HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 10am to midnight
HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT – SONG THU VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3942 4448 hoasuaschool.com
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
MATCHBOX
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 3098 11am to 11pm
MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE
PAN-CHINESE Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
fortuna.vn 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese culinary delights and Yum Cha at its finest, with seven private dining rooms this is a place to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended.
MING PALACE
PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.
THE BISTRO
FRENCH FLAIR 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 4782 thebistro.com.vn 7.30am to 9pm A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.
FITNESS & YOGA N SHAPE FITNESS
MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE 5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495 nshapefitness.vn
HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899
MEDICAL & DENTAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE
MEDICAL 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748 vietnammedicalpractice. com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.
hanoi Tel: (04) 3974 3556 vinmec.com
elsewhere
A DONG PHOTO CO
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / EAT / MEDICAL & DENTAL / RECREATION
RECREATION KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL
BARS & CLUBS CAMA ATK
MUSIC & ARTS BAR 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970 Wednesday to Saturday, 6pm to midnight With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.
HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS
CZECH MICROBREWERY 1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088
VUVUZELA
MODERN BEER HALL 2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung
CAFÉ 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm
FRENCH GRILL JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 facebook.com/frenchgrill Every day 6pm to 11pm With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3796 2647 10am to midnight
CAFES KOTO ON VAN MIEU
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.
HAM HANH
ARTSY CAFE 170 Doi Can, Dong Da The physical representation of arts, film and music collective, The Onion Cellar, this cafe with multiple areas is as left field as the people who created it.
RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7.00am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
KY Y
JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday
SUSHI RESTAURANT 288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945 asahisushi.vn
11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.
rant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.
WILD LOTUS
CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204 potsnpans.vn 11.30am to late Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restau-
ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK
ALPHA LAPTOP 95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418
FUONG MAY ANH 5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568
NGUYEN CAU
ICE SKATING Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936 469799 royalcity.com.vn
1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem
X-FACTORY LASER TAG
HI-TECH USA
LASER TAG 77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106 x-factory-vn.com
DK COMPUTER 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772
23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261
PICO PLAZA 35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
MEDICAL & DENTAL POTS ‘N PANS
SWIMMING POOL Landmark 72 Tower, Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3772 3801 landmark72.com
128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732
FRENCH HOSPITAL
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100 hfh.com.vn
VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,
Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best
PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER CARE AND IT SERVICES No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983 011081
VIETSAD 34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 8771
SWIMMING POOLS ARMY HOTEL 33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896
FOUR SEASONS 14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da. Tel: 3537 6250
HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com
HORISON FITNESS CENTER 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808
MELIA HOTEL 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343
OLYMPIA 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049
SAO MAI 10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTER 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888
THAN NHAN
EAT ASAHI SUSHI
ELECTRONICS
LA VERTICALE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317 verticale-hanoi.com
Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park)
THANG LOI HOTEL 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
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MEDICAL BUFF FIGHTING FLU
W
e see people with influenza or flu all year round, but the numbers peak during autumn and throughout the winter — this is why it is referred to as ‘seasonal flu.’ Flu is different from a cold and is caused by another group of viruses. The symptoms tend to be more severe and last longer. Flu often causes a high temperature, headache, sore throat and a runny nose. People often feel very tired and complain of general aches and pains. It is also not uncommon to have diarrhoea for the first few days of feeling unwell. People can feel too unwell to leave their home or even get out of bed.
When to See a Doctor Most people who are otherwise fit and healthy don’t need to see a doctor. Usually all that is needed is some good rest and to drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration. It can also help to take parcetamol and ibuprofen — these medications when taken regularly can help keep your fever down and relieve aches and pains. You should consider seeing your doctor if you have flu-like symptoms and you: — are pregnant — have other chronic medical problems such as diabetes, asthma, kidney disease or a weakened immune system — are aged 65 or older — are aged under five This is because you are at higher risk of complications related to the flu. Your doctor may consider prescribing antiviral medication such as Tamiflu. There has
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been a lot of interest in the press recently regarding Tamiflu as over the last three to five years several governments have spent hundreds of millions of US dollars stockpiling the drug in anticipation of a global pandemic despite little evidence for its efficacy. A recent report only found evidence that Tamiflu shortens your illness by 12 hours (from seven days to 6.3 days), there is no good evidence currently to suggest it reduces rates of admission to hospital or the risk of complications. It can also cause nausea, vomiting and psychiatric issues. For this reason many physicians are seriously considering whether it is worth prescribing Tamiflu as the risks may outweigh the benefits. Antibiotics have no place in the treatment of the flu as it is caused by a virus not a bacteria.
How Long Does Flu Last? You often feel worse two to three days after developing symptoms, but should begin to feel better after roughly a week, although it is not uncommon to keep feeling tired for much longer. You are considered infectious from one day before symptoms start and for a further five to six days. Children may remain contagious for longer. For this reason you should not fly during this period or go to school/work. Avoid crowded areas as there is a high risk of passing the virus to others.
Preventing the Spread of Flu The flu virus is spread in small droplets of fluid coughed or sneezed into the air by an infected person. You can also spread
BY DR. DAMIEN CUMMINS
the virus on your fingers by touching your nose or mouth and then transferring it to other people through touching common surfaces. The best way to limit this is through good personal hygiene. Always wash your hands regularly with soap and water, regularly clean commonly touched surfaces, use tissues to cover your mouth when you cough or sneeze, and then dispose of them immediately in a bin.
The Flu Vaccine A new, updated flu vaccine is released annually as the flu virus is commonly changing. This is why it is important to have a new vaccine every year. It is particularly important for those at risk of complications such as children, the elderly, pregnant women and people with chronic health problems. There is good evidence that the flu vaccine works and will help prevent you getting the flu. It does not protect against every flu virus so there is still a small chance you could catch the flu, but after vaccination is likelier to be a shorter and milder illness. The new vaccines should be available from late September / early October, so it is a good time to think about whether you want to protect yourself and your family from flu. Dr Damien Cummins is from the UK and has been working for the International SOS Hanoi Clinic since 2012. His background is general and emergency medicine. International SOS Hanoi Clinic is at 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666
hanoi
business
BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE SERVICES / INSURANCE / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS BUSINESS GROUPS
CORPORATE SERVICES
ICHAM
ENDO
Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 icham.org The Chamber has the main purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and to assist economic agents, as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic relations and cooperation among entrepreneurs of the various countries. The Chamber will not engage in commercial activities with the aim of producing profits.
79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3783 2085 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.
CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.
EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228 eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.
INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD
MARKET RESEARCH xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.
SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center, Ground Floor, Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 4772 0833 sbav-hanoi.org
INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 insuranceinvietnam.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH VIETNAM INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BVIS) H3-H4, Hoa Lan, Vincom Village, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435 bvisvietnam.com
CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878 concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.
HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183 www.isvietnam.org The International School of Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. ISV offers an international education experience. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.
KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743 0360 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 7243 C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri New Urban, Tu Liem District, Tel: +84 4 3794 0209 kinderworld.net Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.
QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418 hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SIS) 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: 3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: 3795 1036 www,kinderworld.net/sis SIS provides international
education for students from Primary up to University Foundation Programme. A strong curriculum combines the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and Vietnamese curricula, all taught by qualified teachers. Runs various co-curricula activities and prepares students for internationally recognised qualifications: iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE & AS/A Level, GAC
rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and long-term courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.
UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS)
CIMIGO
Ciputra International Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551 unishanoi.org
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO 67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 2051 Apollo.edu.vn Established in 1994, Apollo offers high-quality and costeffective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic. One of the country’s leading language centres.
BRITISH COUNCIL 20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3728 1922 britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses – business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.
LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM 62 Yen Phu, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3927 3399 languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.
MANAGEMENT TRAINING
MARKET RESEARCH 142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com cimigolive.com
INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD
MARKET RESEARCH xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.
RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.
ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO Inland Customs Deport Area (ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3768 5882 asiantigergroup.com Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of moving households without disruption ti family life. They also offer pre-move advice regarding customs and shipping.
G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES HKC Building, Suite 701, 285 Doi Can, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3762 3805 ghmsglobal.com
RMIT Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 1460
JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in
the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. For more information email info@santaferelo. com.vn.
SERVICED APARTMENTS ATLANTA RESIDENCES 49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0912 239085 atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’. Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.
FRASER SUITES HANOI 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 8877 Located in the West Lake area, Fraser Suites Hanoi consists of 186 apartments, from studios to four bedrooms, which meet any lifestyle. With a calming and warm interior feel, each apartment features all the latest amenities. 24-hour security surveillance provides peace of mind.
SEDONA SUITES No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 0888 sedonahotels.com.sg
SOMERSET GRAND HANOI 49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3934 2342 somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central location.
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BOOK BUFF CRIME THRILLERS
This month Bookworm’s Truong takes a look at some of the best crime thriller writers around
6
7-year-old James Patterson is undoubtedly the English language world’s most prolific, and successful novelist. He has sold over 300 million books and is a perennial feature in the New York Times top-ten book list. Primarily a writer of crime thriller fiction, his romance novels also fly off the shelves and he has received a prestigious award for his children’s books. Patterson is very open about his collaboration with real and ghost writers, many of whom are featured as co-authors on his book covers, and says that he is ‘more proficient at dreaming up plots than crafting sentence after sentence.’ In 2014 Patterson plans to have 16 books into bookshops or onto kindles. These include seven children’s and young adult titles, two romance and seven crime thrillers all, except one, written collaboratively. Many of Patterson’s fans cut their teeth on the thrillers that feature psychologist Alex Cross and which are all written by the maestro himself. The 22nd in the series, Hope to Die, is due out in November
Supporting Bookstores Patterson has become a Bookworm favourite because he recently spent a few of his millions supporting independent bookshops and public libraries, which he believes are a threatened species due to the unstoppable invasion of digital. “If there are no bookstores, no libraries, no serious publishers with passionate, dedicated, idealistic editors, what will happen to our literature?” he explains. “Who will discover and mentor new writers? Who will publish our important books?” His recent gift of US$250,000 (VND5.25 billion) to independent bookstores in Britain was to highlight the fact that less than 1,000 of these now remain, and that without
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them children have a dwindling resource of suitable books available. He believes that if children don’t read books then we are going to end up with a world of knuckleheads. The latest Patterson thriller is Invisible. Its hero, FBI researcher, Emma Dockery, discovers a connection between hundreds of unsolved rapes, kidnappings and murders. And as the PR asks: will she become the next victim? Its co-author is David Ellis.
Beyond Patterson Another prolific crime thriller author is 54-year-old Harlan Coben, whose latest book, Missing You, also has a female protagonist, New York detective Kat Donovan. It’s often a downer for thriller readers to have plots revealed, so its enough to say that it includes Coben’s distinctive multiple twists. Just as it seems that an explanation is within reach you are hit on the head with another shocking surprise. More and more scary consequences occur than make you ensure all doors are securely locked if you are racing to its conclusion late at night. Like most crime thriller writers Coben collects fans by writing series about the same characters, but Missing You is a stand-alone hair-raiser. Coben is one of those crime thriller writers who is cited as being an influence by other successful authors of the genre. Much of his writing slips him into the literary category. Perhaps the most literary crime thriller writer of all is 35-year-old Tom Rob Smith whose three-part series set in Russia began with multiple award winner, Child 44 — a contender for the 2008 Man Booker Prize. The book features disgraced Soviet MBG agent Leo Demidov on the trail of a serial child killer in the months preceding and following Stalin’s death in 1953. It was inspired by the true story of Andrei Chikatlio, the Rostov
Ripper, who killed 52 youngsters before being captured. Once you’ve become enmeshed with the main characters you immediately want to rush out and buy the sequels — The Secret Speech and Agent Six. The former is set in Russia just as Khrushchev denounces Stalin’s legacy in 1956. The latter in the 1960s and involves Russian incursions into Afghanistan.
Crime… in Sweden This year Rob Smith had another novel published, The Farm. It encompasses his own family experiences of growing up in London and parts of Sweden with a Swedish mother and English father. Because it’s set in Sweden you could accuse the author of jumping onto the phenomenally successful Scandinavian crime band wagon that was set in motion by Stieg Larsson, Jo Nesbo and Karin Fossum. With his family connection, who could blame him? The novel’s protagonist, Daniel, travels to Sweden where his parents have retired to a small farm after he receives a phone call from his mother accusing his father of being a wicked liar, and one from his father who has labeled his wife psychotic and had her committed to an asylum. Daniel listens to his mother’s fantastic story about the father’s involvement in a ritualistic cabal led by a troll-carving neighbour and which involves the murder of a young girl. The dilemna about which parent to believe and the need to know the truth sets Daniel on a twisting, gritty path abounding in murder and weirdly absorbing experiences that keep you riveted. For more information on Bookworm go to bookwormhanoi.com. Besides their original store on Chau Long, Bookworm have a second, smaller shop in Nghi Tam Village in the West Lake area. Located behind the Sheraton and in the same alley as VilaTom Coffee, it can be found at Lane 1/28 Au Co, Lang Nghi Tam, Tay Ho
Ho Chi Minh City
BUSINESS BUFF // BODY AND TEMPLE // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS // KNOW YOUR BUSINESS // A WORLD OF GOOD // FOOD PROMOS // STUDENT EYE PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY
HCMC
business
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING / ADVERTISING & MKTG / BUSINESS CONSULTING / BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES / EVENT MANAGEMENT / EXPAT SERVICES / HOUSING & REAL ESTATE / INSURANCE / INTERIOR DESIGN / INVESTMENT & FINANCE / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / LEGAL SERVICES / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES / PUBLIC RELATIONS / RECRUITMENT & HR / RELOCATION AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS ACCOUNTING & AUDITING COWAN — STRATEGIC BRAND PHIBIOUS DESIGN
GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS
4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0220 globaleye.com
PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS
Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796 pwc.com
SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES
6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com
TMF GROUP
Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 2262 Tmg-group.com
ADVERTISING & MKTG BBDO VIETNAM 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6662 bbdoasia.com
16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064 cowandesign.com
DENTSU VIETNAM AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005 Dentsu.com.vn
GREY GROUP 404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3929 1450 grey.com/vietnam
INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA
Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 6388 industrialdesignasia.com
MARKETEERS VIETNAM
FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933 3493 marketeersvietnam.com
OGILVY & MATHER 12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821 9529 ogilvy.com
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7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 3377 phibious.com An independent, creative– led communications company helps brands connect and grow across Southeast Asia. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.
PURPLE ASIA 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050 purpleasia.com
RED | BRAND BUILDERS
Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 0169 red.vn Long-established branding consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team creates and shapes unique marketing strategies that add impact to international and local brands from Viet-
nam to Australia.
RIVER ORCHID 10th Floor HDTC Building, 36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 2538 riverorchid.com
SAATCHI & SAATCHI 26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3824 1207 saatchi.com Ranked among the top 100 global advertising agencies, S&S has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world, providing advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic design.
TBWA\VIETNAM 4th Floor, Saigon Finance Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315 tbwa.com.vn
BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM 11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7858 Bdg-vietnam.com
CONCETTI 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 1481 Concetti.vn
GRANT THORNTON
ROUSE 6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6770 iprights.com
STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM 161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0965 starcorpvn.com
STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL 38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 0904 410884
28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100 Gt.com.vn
TRACTUS ASIA LTD
INSPIRED IMAGE
XAGE CONSULTANCY
Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0916 352573 Inspiredimage.co.uk
PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES 4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 7305 0905 prism.com.vn
164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2205 tractus-asia.com
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com
BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.
HCMC CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.
CINEBOX 240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425 cinebox.vn
LOTTE CINEMA 13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521 lottecinemavn.com
GALAXY CINEMA 230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567 galaxycine.vn
IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451 idecaf.gov.vn
MEGASTAR CINEMA Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5416 0088 megastar.vn
amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912 auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam, AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations meetings and charity events.
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430 bbgv.org
CANCHAM Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754 canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.
NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922 nordcham.com
PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045 pbgvn.com
SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046 sbghcm.org
SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION 42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6996 swissvietnam.com
CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364 ambrij.com
ENDO 406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6292 2045 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.
venues to make any kind of event a success.
COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM
EXPAT SERVICES
Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665 colliersmn.com/vietnam
CHUM’S HOUSE
121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237
HAPPY HOUSE
International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553
RESIDENT VIETNAM
CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM
32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com
HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE 12th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6125 cbre.com
EVENT MANAGEMENT CENTERPIECE EVENT ORGANIZERS Tel: 0906 761190 centerpiece-vn.com info@centerpiece-vn.com Centerpiece is an independent event planning company run by expatriates that can plan any event from private parties, to corporate events to weddings.
EVECOO Tel: 0988 297990 evecoo.vn
GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL 63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6048 galaroyale.com.vn
ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD 268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880
THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive
CREATION
JONES LANG LASALLE 26th Foor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968 joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a professional services and investment management firm offering specialized real estate services to clients seeking increased value by owning, occupying and investing in real estate. As a truly global firm, they work and collaborate closely with their colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to their clients in Vietnam. Their offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.
Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7968 cushmanwakefield.vn
EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694 easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.
KNIGHT FRANK Suite A, level 7, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6777 knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.
NAMHOUSE CORPORATION 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700 namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.
SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9205 savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is a leading property service provider
in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and other services.
SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282 snap.com.vn Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.
SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 2000 sothebysrealty.com.vn
THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901 thenest-vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.
INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE 49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661 baoviet.com.vn
IF CONSULTING IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362 insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.
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HCMC
BUSINESS BUFF IN THE CLUB
BY SHANE DILLON
V
ietnam is full of little clubs, bars and secret spots that always spike my curiosity. What sort of awesome fun and adventurous activities take place behind these doors? And how come I am never invited in for a night of decadent fun? So this month I have looked elsewhere and come up with a list of exclusive clubs that would make the snobs in District 1 wait in line. Arguably the most expensive type of club is the elite destination club, also known as a resort club. Members often pay a one-time initiation fee of up to US$4 million (VND84 billion), followed by annual dues of up to US$67,500 (VND1.4 billion) and sometimes even daily fees of as much as US$650 (VND13.65 million), for the use of multi-million dollar castles, condominiums and hotel suites in some of the world’s most beautiful, and exclusive locations. Other memberships are to specific location clubs and facilities. The following list shows some of the most exclusive and expensive in the world.
CORE (New York) Fees: US$50,000 (VND1.05 billion) registration fee + US$15,000 (VND315 million) per year Members include former Yahoo CEO Jerry Yang, Roger Waters of Pink Floyd and fashion designer Kenneth Cole.
Cercle de Lorraine (Brussels) Fees: US$2,414 (VND50.7 million) registration fee + US$2,078 (VND43.6 million) per year Offers excellent networking opportunities with heads of industries, royalty and Europe's most powerful economic influencers.
The Hurlingham Club (London) Fees: Undisclosed King Edward VII went pigeon shooting here. The club provides its members with first class social and sporting facilities. However, you'll probably have to wait 15 years for a current member to resign or pass on before you can become a non-voting member, then another 15 years before being considered for voting membership.
Silencio (Paris) Fees: US$2,235 (VND49.9 million) per year inclusive of deluxe concierge service. This cultural club dedicated to artistic events and concerts has a strict member recruiting policy, only accepting
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Silencio club in Paris
creative types who have shown a strong commitment to their professional fields, whatever that means.
The Clubhouse (Buenos Aires) Fees: US$750 (VND15.8 million) per year A haven for sophisticated jet-setting party people, this club has gorgeous hotel rooms, a great steak restaurant and original works by Andy Warhol.
Blacks (London) Fees: US$672 (VND14.1 million) registration fee + US$663 (VND13.9 million) per year Membership is by invitation only. In April 2014, the waiting period for consideration of membership was eight months.
Capital Club (Dubai, U.A.E.) Fees: Undisclosed The premier private business club in the Middle East, membership is by invite only and applicants must be recommended by two present club members. Many global business deals have been signed here.
Kee Club (Hong Kong) Fees: US$2,579 (VND54.2 million) per year for annual membership; US$6,448 (VND135.4 million) for lifetime membership. Members usually join through referrals, and once in, get access to exclusive events with celebrities such as Bill Clinton, Sting, Michael Jordan, Gwyneth Paltrow, Christian Louboutin, Mick Jagger, Chow Yun Fat or Joel Robuchon in attendance.
Roppongi Hills Club (Tokyo) Fees: US$11,697 (VND246 million) registration fee + US$1,755 (VND36.9 million) per year + US$4,874 (VND102 million) refundable deposit on withdrawal of membership. Offers a 360-degree view of Tokyo from a 250-meter-high perspective. Members include business and political leaders as well as ambassadors from more than 100 countries. Shane works in the insurance industry and has been to the Kee Club in Hong Kong once, it was pretty awesome. Contact him at shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn
HCMC BLUE CROSS VIETNAM 8th Floor, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.
IGLOBALASSIST Tel: 0934 874271 Iglobalassist.com
LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3812 5125 libertyinsurance.com.vn
PRUDENTIAL 25th F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1660 prudential.com.vn
TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES VIETNAM
THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP
Huu Nghi Building, 35 Le Loi, Q1 ten-pac.com An independent agency representing local and international insurance companies in Southeast Asia. A trusted partner for health, employee benefits and life insurance, the team at Tenzing has over 30 years’ experience providing insurance advice.
27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0907 ethicalinvestmentgroup. co.uk
INTERIOR DESIGN PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND REMODELING Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren Hawk) Thinking about upgrading a bathroom? Perhaps a new colour in the living room? Maybe even a new wood floor? Professional Painting and Remodeling can help with these and many other projects. Provide international standards of quality as well as professional and timely service at reasonable rates. Call today to schedule a free evaluation.
INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL
1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9355 dragoncapital.com
TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT
66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623 t-wm.com
VINACAPITAL 17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9930 vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund.
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS ILA VIETNAM 146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3521 8788 ilavietnam.com A foreign-owned education and training company that offers a range of educational programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training and overseas study consultancy and placement services.
L’ATELIER 33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492 latelier-anphu.com
VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771 vietnameselanguagegarden.com
VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168 vlstudies.com Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.
VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 0914 vnccentre.com
1717 vietnamlaws.com
BAKER & MCKENZIE 12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5585 bakermckenzie.com
FRASERS LAW COMPANY Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733 frasersvn.com
GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I. 18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8599 gide.com
INDOCHINE COUNSEL Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9640 indochinecounsel.com
MAYER BROWN JSM 17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8860 mayerbrownjsm.com
MANAGEMENT TRAINING EMBERS ASIA
VUS 189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800 vus-etsc.edu.vn
LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728 embers-asia.com
ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM 38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288 erci.edu.vn
G&H 6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919 ghmsglobal.com A 100 percent foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.
XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com
MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727 cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models and assessing market opportunities.
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HCMC
BODY
AND
TEMPLE
CALORIES VS. CHEMICALS
BY PHIL KELLY
T
he calorie myth is a hard one to kill. Calories are not the most important issue when striving for effortless fat loss and health. Every organism tries to maintain homeostasis (a state of balance) automatically. It is a fundamental part of our being to try and maintain balance. For example, if we drink a lot of water we urinate more and visa versa, if we don’t drink enough water our body redistributes what you do have to vital functions. However, the common misunderstanding is that when we consume more food we will automatically store more fat, but this is not quite the case. Our bodies try to regulate our weight just like it tries to regulate hydration (water), blood sugar levels and blood pressure. This process is called the Homeostasis Regulatory System (HRS) This system can be broken by the wrong quality of foods. Those foods break the HRS and once broken it doesn’t matter how little you eat or how much you exercise, the system is broken and we need to fix the system. Diabetics, for example, are not told to eat less, they are generally told to not eat certain foods. The same is true for heart attack patients and most other ailments. The importance of reading labels is essential for your health. Lets take peanut butter, for example. What should the ingredient list be to make peanut butter? One item is all that is needed… peanuts! But we live in a society where advertising makes false promises. Food packages make amazing claims. Skippy reduced fat peanut butter promotes 25 percent less fat and that their product “fuels the fun”. Must be healthy, right? Far from it. They list 22 items in the ingredient list, the majority of which are hazardous to your health. All these chemicals build up in your body. Your internal system can only process and eliminate so much at a time, so the excess is pushed to and stored in body fat. If toxins and chemicals remain at higher levels than your body can process, you acquire more body fat to take these harmful substances out of circulation. Our bodies can take a lot of punishment before we get into the red-zone and develop chronic diseases. Gaining health and effortlessly staying lean has a lot more to do with the quality of our food rather than the quantity. When was the last time you heard of someone getting fat and becoming sick
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from eating too many vegetables?
Frightening Pho Pho is one of the best-known dishes in Vietnam. Consumed regularly and loved by both locals and foreigners, a few months back the Centre for Study and Consultation on Consumerism (CESCON) randomly tested nine major food suppliers in Saigon (including well-known supermarkets and markets, such as Big C and Co.op Mart). They found that a massive 80 percent of Vietnamese rice vermicelli contained a banned and highly hazardous chemical — tinopal. Tinopal is a fluorescent whitening agent found in detergents. It gives a brilliant white effect on cellulosic fibres and is, not surprisingly, stable over the whole temperature range. Long-term regular consumption of tinopal causes stomach and digestive harm, damages the neurological system, causes cancers, as well as kidney and liver failure. It bleaches your insides. The six types of Vietnamese rice noodles tested 100 percent positive for tinopal. That’s pho, bun, banh canh, banh
hoi, banh cuon and banh uot. Do Ngoc Chinh, deputy director of CESCON states that, “using this banned and hazardous chemical in making rice noodles is against the law while causing harm to consumers”. Coconuts are also bleached to improve the whiteness of the shell and therefore look more appealing. These harsh and hazardous chemicals can leak into the flesh and juice of the coconut and therefore be consumed with the product. When buying a coconut always buy one with the green husk still intact. This means it has not been tampered with. As far as pho and rice noodle products go, it is almost impossible to know if they contain tinopal. The only answer is to consume these foods less regularly and boost your body’s detoxification systems so that if you do happen to digest toxins, your body will be capable of eliminating them as soon as possible. Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763 or at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)
HCMC INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.
MEKONG RESEARCH
91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314 mekongresearch.com
NIELSEN
CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088 vn.nielsen.com
TNS VIETNAM 58 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 6631 Tnsvietnam.vn With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customisation, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.
PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES DRAGON IMAGES Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660 dragonimages.asia Dragon Images production
studio is a professional team of photographers, stylists. shooting administrators, casting managers and retouchers. They make photos on various topics, from business to sport.
PUBLIC RELATIONS MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 5517 matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility and media and issues management and training.
VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS 7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462 veropr.com Helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues / crisis management.
RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430 adecco.com.vn Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.
HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888 hr2b.com
G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC. Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi. www.vieclambank.com info@vieclambank.com VieclamBank is a brand of G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting executive and senior level, providing Vietnamese and
— Cake Decoration Supplies — Cake Moulds and Pans — Cocktail Materials and Syrups
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HCMC KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS
Japanese candidates with experience studying abroad or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective and competitive service suitable for many types of business.
VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373 vietnamworks.com
RELOCATION AGENTS
LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322 logicalmoves.net Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.
RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com
DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio.
HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling.com
AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071 agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.
INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700 Inspirato.edu.vn
KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: 0908 460267 kidsclubsaigon.com
MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691 Minhnguyenpiano.com
ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220 alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.
PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679 paa.com.vn Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.
PIANO CLASSES
ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY
38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360 Saigonponyclub.com
Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799 www.asiantigers-mobility. com Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-todoor moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations.
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY
CROWN RELOCATIONS
Tel: 01225 636682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com
SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722 saigonmovement@gmail.com
SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279
SAIGON PONY CLUB
28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.
TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149
VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846 vin-space.com
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2nd Floor Coteccons Office Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 4237 crownrelo.com
JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.
SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED 7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8850 seal.com.vn
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. Email info@ santaferelo.com.vn for info.
SERVICED APARTMENTS CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT 656 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm. vnn.vn
DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08) 3742 5678 enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.
CITYVIEW
12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1111 cityview.com.vn
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888 intercontinental.com/saigonres
Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area.
NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111 norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 Riverside-apartments.com Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.
SEDONA SUITES 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9666 sedonahotels.com.sg
SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288 sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.
SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922 somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.
DELIVERY BEN STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare
CHEZ GUIDO Tel: (08) 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches
DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts
EAT.VN www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants
EL GATO NEGRO Tel: (08) 6660 1577 Californian-style burritos
HUNGRYPANDA.VN www.hungrypanda.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants
KFC Tel: (08) 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides
LOTTERIA Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides
PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: (08) 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers
SCOOZI Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts
TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare
WILLY WOO’S Tel: (08) 3941 5433 www.blackcatsaigon.com US-style chicken and waffles
VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants
THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.
Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best
HCMC
downtown
DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
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DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124 apocalypsesaigon.com
BEER REPUBLIC
MODERN BEER HALL 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 0945 858034 facebook.com/BeerRepublic
BLANCHY’S TASH
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 Blanchystash.com
BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ
MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 609202. bootlegsaigon.com Reminiscent of a New York or London underground watering hole, this is a great place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts, lunch by day and a variety of DJ sets by night.
BOUDOIR LOUNGE
HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555
LIVE MUSIC / BAR 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 7699
CUNHOUSE
LOUNGE BAR Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 0908 033982
DRUNKEN DUCK
EXPAT / SPORTS BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 2853 Subtle lighting, a pleasant ambience, a pool table and darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel of a drinking man's pub. A place to have fun, drink beer or spirits and get in with the party mood. Known for its 15 shooter challenge.
FUSE
TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.vn
GAME ON
SPORTS BAR 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898 gameonsaigon.com
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EXPAT BAR 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2644 Expats keep returning to this smoky dive bar, largely due to its amicable service, brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart games. A mainstay in the local darts league.
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LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595 hardrockcafe.vn
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TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.
COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.
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BARS & CLUBS
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District 4
LA HABANA
CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180 lahabana-saigon.com Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.
If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.
LA FENETRE SOLEIL
FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.
LAST CALL
AFTERHOURS LOUNGE 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122 lastcallsaigon.com
LE RENDEZ-VOUS DE SAIGON
FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR 9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0396 lerendezvousdesaigon.com With such a meaningful name - the meeting point - this wine bistro boasts a relaxed, friendly ambience, perfect for unwinding with an after work drink or to enjoy time with friends. Reasonably priced, has a sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive old and new world wine list.
LEVEL 23 WINE BAR
large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls.
LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT
PACHARAN
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com
LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com
LUSH
PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2496 lush.vn
O’BRIEN’S
IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198 irish-barsaigon.com This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare,
SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6024 pacharansaigon.com Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything Spanish. Regular first-floor live music and excellent eats makes it a mainstay for the wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.
PHATTY’S
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS 46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar.com From its roots as the famed
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HCMC
COFFEE CUP M2C
S
tepping into M2C, 'Modern Meets Culture’, you might be surprised by the collision of trendsetter aesthetics. Plaster blasted off the walls reveals crumbling brick, crumpled sheets of burnt orange aluminium encase dangled light bulbs, old style crockery is pinned to the walls, tea pots tipped downward, bleeding into an exposed original candy-pastel mural of lines, shapes and flower patterns. A stone unicorn used in an Elle Vietnam fashion shoot by owner-architect Tran Hoang Trung’s creative director brother, Dzung Yoko, lies harmoniously against the upstairs wall, sharing the perimeter with potted ferns. Trung is the architect-designer of both ID Cafés, Zest Bistro, the new Hum Vegetarian Restaurant and The Fig Café — all places employing styles that run the Saigon gamut. “A few years ago,” Trung says, “I tried to do Asian Contemporary,
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Photos by Francis Xavier
like The Fig Café. But now I’m not really into the Asian Contemporary style. For an architect, I think the most important thing when you have a project and you want to decide, is you see the atmosphere, everything, the neighbours — you have the idea. I don’t stick to any style.” Hum on Thi Sach has exposed ventilation crawling along its ceiling, counterbalanced with a smooth concrete floor and a mood-lit brick wall. ID Café on Tu Xuong is built around a fulcrum of garden space, trees growing alongside the rising storeys. “You see the wall?” says Trung, pointing towards the half-exposed mural. “The painting belongs to the houses from before 1975. I discovered that... but I don’t want to make it into the old wall. I just want to hide the past in the present.”
The Culture M2C’s menu is a dense affair of local foods described in Japanese, English and
Vietnamese, coffee, tea, juices and a liberal sprinkling of high-concept drinks. The coffee comes from an organic farm in Buon Ma Thuot, the Central Highlands’ capital of coffee. And it’s actually quite good, freshly ground in an aesthetically matched craft grinder. M2C just opened a second branch on Le Quy Don last month, its aesthetic matching the L’Usine black-and-white tile and whitewashed brick a bit more closely. And it has more than just appearances in common. They’re two of a select few cafés in the city which manage to integrate the past into the present, and in doing so form the missing link between Vietnam’s classical café culture and the world class brand that it still enjoys. — Ed Weinberg The reviewed branch of M2C is at 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City while the second branch is at 4B Le Quy Don, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City
HCMC Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the go-to, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.
SAIGON SAIGON
HOTEL MUSIC BAR 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Som Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com
STORM P
DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738 Stormp.vn
THE CUBE BAR
HIP RESTOBAR 31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798 facebook.com/thecubesaigon A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin.
THE ORIENT
SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more.
VASCO’S
MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2888 Vascosgroup.com A veteran fixture of Saigon’s nightlife scene, Vasco’s offers a softly lit downstairs patio, and an upstairs Blue Room chill out lounge area with regular live music.
Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.
WINE BAR 38
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.
WINE EMBASSY
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827 wineembassy.com.vn A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines.
XU
CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon.com This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.
ZANZBAR
LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR 19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7375 Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, subtle lighting, international tapas and a laidback, lightbox-lit ambience are all part of the offering at the all-new ZanZBar on the river end of Dong Khoi. Popular with a businessy, international crowd.
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet down-toearth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement the drinks, the subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this a great drinking and dining venue
VINO
WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 vinovietnam.com This downtown wine shop’s terrace is a popular after work drinking spot, where one can select from 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer, and an excellent tapas menu. Alternatively, buy from the great selection of wines in the shop and pay a small corkage.
VINYL BAR
MUSIC & SPORTS BAR 70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623 vinylbarsaigon.com A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes.
INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 7285 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.
CREPERIE AND CAFÉ
FRENCH 5 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9117 Known for it’s fantastic street-side seating opposite the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out café will impress you with its location as much as its food.
FANNY
ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1633 fanny.com.vn
GIVRAL CAFÉ
INTERNATIONAL 80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3704 saigongivral.com
GOODY
ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 133 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9339
GUANABANA SMOOTHIES
CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR 23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830 guanabanasmoothies.com An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and
CAFES & ICE-CREAM
VELVET
DANCE/HIP HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com
COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 Auparcsaigon.com Set in a shophouse-style building, Au Parc offers a chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean food complemented with good coffee and excellent desserts.
BACH DANG
ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2707
BASKIN ROBBINS
ICE CREAM PARLOUR 1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 7308 3131 baskinrobbins.vn
CASBAH
MIDDLE EASTERN 59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5130 This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both cozy indoor and rooftop seating to admire views of the city. With such a prime downtown location, expect prices to match.
CENTRO
ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE 11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5946 Conveniently located near the Caravelle Hotel, this casual cafe serves one of the best lattes in town with a mid-range Italian menu including panini and other typical fare.
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HCMC condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme.
HÄAGEN-DAZS
ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 11 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 6683 5899; 20 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066
L’USINE
CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703 lusinespace.com French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi.
MAGONN THE CAFE 109 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9672 magonn.vn Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright and inviting space for everything from drinks to bites. Coming with a crowd? The attic is a quaint little spot to fit a cozy gathering.
M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495 facebook.com/m2ccafe At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town.
THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330 themorningcafe.com.vn Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.
THE PRINT ROOM
verted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.
DEBENHAMS
ADULT & CHILDREN’S WEAR Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7592
GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN
TRUNG NGUYEN
DESIGN & JEWELLERY 35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8162 galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month.
ZEST BISTRO & CAFÉ
GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE
CONTEMPORARY CAFE 158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.
INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE 80 Dong Khoi, Q1 trungnguyen.com.vn
INTERNATIONAL 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 5599 This two-storey building with a mezzanine level boasts an industrial style complex with block walls, steel structures and huge glass windows. The mid-range menu offers over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.
CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES ANUPA ECO LUXE
LEATHER & JEWELLERY 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm This centrally located unique boutique has been con-
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CASUAL & EVENING WEAR 85 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4004 Contemporary ranges of casual and evening wear fused with Asian designs. The apparel includes floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags. Enjoy a cup of coffee at their café after.
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.
IPA-NIMA
BAGS & ACCESSORIES 77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima.com 9am to 9pm
L’USINE
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565 lusinespace.com Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.
MANDARINA
TAILOR-MADE SHOES 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267
MR & MRS SMITH
FACTORY OUTLET 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet sells a variety of clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam. All designs are brand new, delivered from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices.
SONG
ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4088 asiasongdesign.com
T&V TAILOR
TAILORS 39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556 triciaandverona.com
VESPA SHOP VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.
COOKING CLASSES SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485 saigoncookingclass.com Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.
VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349 vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com
CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4201 bellavitafurniture.com
BOCONCEPT
DANISH FURNITURE 68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6604; The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7357 boconcept.vn
DIABOLO
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1803
9am to 8pm
EM EM
SOUVENIRS 38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-creations.org
NGUYEN FRERES
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS 2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459 8am to 8pm
NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY
EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS 83 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1. (08) 3824 7456 ninhkhuong.vn
SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 69 Dong Khoi, Q1
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS 1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-quilts.org
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115 www.nhaxinh.com
THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE
EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE 3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788 thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn
EAT 3T QUAN NUONG
VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631
HCMC AL FRESCO’S
INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424 alfrescosgroup.com The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Excellent delivery service.
ASHOKA
NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 ashokaindianrestaurant.com Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon.com Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor.
blackcatsaigon.com Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular twostorey eatery close to the river.
elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.
BLANCHY STREET
GANESH
JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.
BOMBAY INDIAN
INDIAN MALAY 57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114
BROTZEIT
GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206 brotzeit.co/kumholink
BUN CHA HA NOI
BUN CHA 26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1
CENTRAL PARC BANH MI
BAHDJA 87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.
BARBECUE GARDEN
7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8549 Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule, New York-themed sandwich shop does creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices — think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels. Excellent delivery service.
CIAO BELLA
NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup.com New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting.
CORSO
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.
GOLDEN ELEPHANT
Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 marriott.com Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.
KOH THAI
CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.
CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn
LE BANH MI
GOURMET’S DELIGHT
L’OLIVIER
ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8181 gourmetsdelight.com.vn
GRILLBAR
AIRCON STREETFOOD 122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7901 facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to it a range of grilled dishes, typical of the barbecue fare you’d find on the street, and then add in three types of rice and a range of organic products. Close to Ben Thanh Market, this is com binh dan
HOA TUC
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE 7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101
HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ
12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1036
FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.
LA CUISINE
FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882 lacuisine.com.vn This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.
LA HOSTARIA
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080 lahostaria.com This downtown hideaway with rustic–style decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also specializes in excellent wood-fired pizzas.
BASILICO
STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decentsized steaks start at VND390,000.
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066 hogsbreathcafe.com.vn Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.
BEIRUT
DRAGON NOODLE
INAHO
CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263 lebouchondesaigon.com A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, and moules marinières, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world wines.
ELBOW ROOM
JASPA’S WINE & GRILL
LE JARDIN
VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3340; 134-136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 barbecuegarden.com
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza, Cnr. Nguyen Du and Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099 intercontinental.com/saigon
LEBANESE The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2188
JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008
BIBI@ALIBI
AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327 elbowroom.com.vn The comfort food on offer at this striking USstyle diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.
5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257 The legendary chef Bibi’s newest creation, a convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine using fresh products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the famous tarte tatin.
BLACK CAT
AMERICAN 13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055
EL GAUCHO
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879
LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON
SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326
INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Alfrescosgroup.com Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks.
KABIN
CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc
CLASSIC FRENCH 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.
LUCCA
TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3691 A contemporary trattoria in the heart of
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TOP EATS
N
SAMBA BRAZILIAN STEAKHOUSE
ow that the World Cup has finished, the world’s attention has left Brazil — but that’s no reason to forget the parts that don’t involve football, nationalism and hamacting. Take their cuisine. Southern Brazil has a centuries-old tradition of charcoalgrilling meat. Brazilian BBQ — churrasco — originated with gauchos grilling beef over campfire coals. This tradition thrived and spread — witness the numerous churrascarias in Ho Chi Minh City. Opened in late 2011, Samba is staffed by Brazil-trained chefs. It’s no coincidence there was a noticeable bump during the World Cup — Samba’s raison d’etre is to enchant our inner adrenalin-junkie with as much meat as it can chew.
Sorry, Vegetarians... Though Samba has a menu, it’s the allyou-can-eat churrasco that attracts dinner crowds, according to owner Danh Phi. At VND550,000 per person, it’s best if you have an empty belly, free time, a fetish for artery-clogging and a desire to put cows on the endangered species list. Sign up and head for the modest buffet, sampling the Parma ham, some garlic bread, potatoes au gratin (lovely sauce, sadly undercooked), Caesar salad and pumpkin soup, mixed fruits, even lasagna. The carpaccio is the high point, plated in lovely, velvety slices, lightly oiled. Mousse and other trifles are for dessert... if you have space. Back at the table, brightly-dressed, cowboy-hatted waiters offer slicings of fresh-grilled meat right off the spit. Called espeto corrido or rodizio, this style of service is the norm for Brazilian BBQ restaurants.
The Mission is Beef Samba avoids the major buffet sin — overextension. They’re on a mission: meat, meat and more meat, serving rump, flank, top sirloin, cheese-crusted beef, beef kebabs, beef neck, lamb shank, sausages, chicken wings and more. The quality varies. Most beef cuts are crisply browned outside, pink and juicy inside, lightly salted, the essential flavours undisguised. The rump and cheese-crusted beef were particularly good. The rest is soso; the sausages aren’t bad, but the lamb is a bit flavourless, as are the chicken legs. Their focus is beef, as yours should be. Sorry, vegetarians — you’re not the target market here. Each table comes laden with sauces, like mustard, Thousand Island, French sauce au poivre and basic brown gravy.
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Photos by Owen Salisbury
Samba’s wine list is decent, and we tried that night’s special, a Chilean cabernet sauvignon — whose dark, chocolaty fullness and spicy finish complemented the opulence of the beef. The décor is fine, based on low-key grey walls with soft orange lighting, though the paintings on the walls are a tad too eclectic. Everything is clean, especially the bathrooms. The background music stays where it ought to, allowing for conversation. Service is friendly and regular, and they
mean all you can eat — even if they’ve brought round your favourite dish before, merely ask and you will receive it again. And again. As fine as these things are, they’re not why people choose Samba. They go to stuff their bellies with decent-quality beef for a not-unreasonable price, and avoid any frills — like vegetables, or good cardiovascular health. For that, Samba does the job. — Owen Salisbury Samba Brazilian Steakhouse is at 10 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City
Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine with New York flair in a beautifully designed space with high ceilings. The menu features both traditional antipasti and substantial main courses.
LUONG SON
PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330
PACHARAN
SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.
PASHA
MAY RESTAURANT 19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686 may.restaurant19@gmail.com 7am to late Casual yet stylish, May places internationalstyle wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour.
MARKET 39
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon
MOGAMBO
PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn
NAM GIAO
HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996 namgiao.com
NHA HANG NGON
VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131
NINETEEN
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com
OMG!
FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.
OSAKA RAMEN
JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7
OPERA
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Unpretentious, casual but elegant restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu backed up by a compact wine list from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and impressive open kitchens.
TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677 pasha.com.vn Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating.Authentically Turkish cuisine with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in.
PENDOLASCO
PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828 pendolasco.vn Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.
PIZZA 4P’S
EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps.com This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.
PROPAGANDA
CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO 21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints.
QUAN BUI 2
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 With its leafy roof garden and chic interior, Quan Bui offers a wide selection of Vietnamese cuisine which is cooked in their open kitchen.
REFINERY
FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon.com A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.
REFLECTIONS
INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
RIVERSIDE CAFÉ
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.
SAIGON CAFÉ
INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com
SEOUL HOUSE
KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT
PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221 shangpalace.com.vn Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.
SKEWERS
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant.com Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.
TANDOOR
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839 Tandoorvietnam.com
TEMPLE CLUB
PAN-VIETNAMESE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244 Templeclub.com.vn Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.
THE BURGER CORNER
INTERNATIONAL 43 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0094
THE SWISS HOUSE SAIGON 54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2079 swisshousesaigon.com Serving up authentic cuisine spanning the three linguistic regions of Switzerland, as well as dishes from Bavaria and Austria, this attractive, two-floor Swiss-styled restaurant also boasts a beer cellar in the basement.
TOKYO BBQ
JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2527
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL / TAPAS-STYLE Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet down-toearth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement the drinks, the subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this a great drinking and dining venue
HCMC
KNOW YOUR BUSINESS COMMUNICATION
In the first of a new series of columns, Adecco’s Ninh The Dung explains the importance of two-way communication in a company as a way to keep employees properly engaged
P
rofitability, business strategy and the all-important bottom line are critical to making an organisation successful, but a large proportion of these factors rely on the same thing: people. Keeping employees engaged and aligned with business goals through regular communication is key. A recent study conducted by Blessing White Research shows that on a global scale, four out of 10 workers are disengaged. This correlates with popular findings where many HR professionals are concerned that ‘employee engagement’ is considered the number one HR challenge in their experience. Studies shows that disengaged employees can have an impact on everything from customer service to sales, quality, productivity, retention and other critical business areas, as well as possibly affecting the morale of other employees within the organisation.
Communications is Key The key to keeping employees engaged lies in communication and yet this is where many organisations stumble. While employees want guidelines from
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their supervisors, they also want to be heard and have their needs recognised. Missed business opportunities, delayed projects and failed initiatives can happen when employees stay silent about what they need. It is not often that you see employees openly and outwardly conveying their messages directly to their supervisors, managers or directors. This is where the HR department can play a critical role by ensuring that communication flows in both directions through the establishment of processes and proper lines of communication. To do this, a culture of communication needs to be created. It needs to be clear to employees that management doesn’t simply want to talk ‘to’ them but also wants to hear ‘from’ them. This is not an overnight process and takes time to develop. One of the most effective ways to start this is to set up a schedule of informal meetings between management and employees of various levels and departments. Such meetings can be either a frequent 10 to 15 minutes catch up, or can also be in the form of more in-depth discussions every quarter where status
or updates on the business operations of the organisation can be shared among the group. To establish a culture of communication within any organisation, here are some of the key points that should be taken into account: — Hearing and listening. Make sure everyone knows that they are safely on a two-way street to communication — Being heard. The management’s method of communication can often be just as important as what they are saying — Being understood and remembered. Keep it short and to the point. — Establish a well-defined employee recognition and reward program. — Lastly, it is essential to understand what is not being said. While every organisation is different and has different requirements, think of your employees as your target market and consider what would be important to them when developing a communications plan. Ninh The Dung is the team leader of Adecco Vietnam working out of their Hanoi office. For more information on Adecco, go to adecco.com.vn
HCMC WARDA
MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com The deep colours, Arabic décor and cushioned outdoor terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch. The food is good, too, taking in tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal, shwarmas and more. Sells authentic shisha.
WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.
YAMANEKO
JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8433 yamaneko–vn.com Funky Yamaneko — down an alley off Le Thanh Ton — offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Does a great set lunch deal.
YU CHU
TOP-END PAN-CHINESE 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA ANUPA YOGA 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net/yoga-anupa
CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE
FITNESS CENTRE Queen Ann Building, 28–30– 32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 5999 Cfyc.com.vn
NUTRIFORT
GENERAL FITNESS 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8560 nutrifort.com Offers fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. There is also a spa and a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.
RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB
HEALTH CLUB & GYM 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033
SAIGON FITNESS CO.
HEALTH CLUB & GYM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com
SHERATON FITNESS
HEALTH CLUB & GYM Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE
HEALTH CLUB & GYM 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555
THE LANDMARK CLUB
GYM, POOL, SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.
GALLERIES BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART GALLERY 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3695 bluespacearts.com
DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 dogmacollection.com The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. Sells prints of the originals and related products.
HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441 baotangmythuattphcm.vn
PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3181 07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3166 phuongmaigallery.com
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
GROCERY & DELI 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.
BACCHUS CORNER
WINE SHOP 158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3306 bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.
DALOC
WINE SHOP 74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 3575 daloc.vn
KIM HAI BUTCHERS
BUTCHERS 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4376 kimhai.vn
PHUONG HA
GROCERS 58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318
RED APRON
WINE SHOP 22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0021
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE SHOP 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.
VEGGY’S
GROCERS & DELI 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526
VINIFERA
WINE SHOP 7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0860 viniferavn.com
VINO WINE SHOP
WINE SHOP 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor
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A WORLD
OF
A PAPER ANNIVERSARY
K
een readers will note this month marks the first anniversary of this column. And like a newborn in her first year of development and growth, I’ve been learning to focus my vision, reach out, explore and learn about the things around me (whee!). I’m also really good at putting things in a container and taking things out of a container. Kidding aside, you could say that’s the point of this column. I like to take things out of the humanitarian and development container in order to examine them more closely and perhaps even, discard. The past year has deconstructed celebrity rampages, narcissism, King Lear, eudaimonia, morality, frugality, genitalia, riots, rapacious benevolence, chewing gum, merry fraudsters, Johnnie Walker and neocolonialism, to name a few conversations. But the one topic that seemed to — over the last year anyway — really float people’s boats was any time I touched on volunteering. Egregious NGOs abusing volunteers and odious volunteers loitering at NGOs touched nerves and filled my inbox. Good. That’s the container at work: put things in, take them out.
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Ebb and Flow That’s also the foundation this column rests on: conversation. Way back in 1997 development workers were rallying around a perverse idea for implementing projects called “start with the people’s knowledge as the basis for planning and change”. Yet that idea has been fantastically ignored pretty much ever since. Nearly two decades later and goals and a project’s indicators (evidence of the results) still tend to be determined before the project begins by those leading the intervention. Projects tend to be linear because they’re focused on the needs of donors, researchers in the field or even the organisation that ‘represents’ the community it’s ‘helping’. I say, let’s move from monologue to dialogue and see how it goes. No predetermined outcomes here, please. Discovering the unexpected is the best part of my work in this field, and being able to share that with you in this column. The presence of individuals able to pose and respond to a question, to engage in dialogic approaches, to create new meaning and understanding is essential in addressing what philosopher Cornel West (writing about African American cultural identity) has called
GOOD
BY DANA MCNAIRN
the “problematic of invisibility and namelessness”. So really, what those long ago aid workers were banging on about was empowerment through participation. Without it, silence. Progressive NGOs refer to this as ‘voice’ and who has it (and uses it) and who doesn’t (thereby generating an invisibility or silence). This is powerful stuff because thinking about this isn’t just confined to touchy-feely nonprofits out saving the world. Is there room for this in other industries? Are we each doing this in our own spheres? In our relationships and interactions with our children, neighbours and co-workers? Who decides what is important? Whose truth and logic? By not predetermining the conversation, the outcomes, the impact, we are able to shift the contents of those containers. I believe it was another seriously ancient development worker who called all that “Be here now”. Previous editions of the column are online at wordvietnam.com/columns/a-world-of-good. Your readership is valued; thank you. And hey, keep those cards and letters coming! Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth. She can be contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.au
HCMC terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.
10am to 10pm (last booking 9.30pm)
HAIRDRESSERS VENUS
WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC
41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 6298
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777 westcoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.
MEDICAL & DENTAL ACCADENT
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800 accadent.com
CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI)
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine.
FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.
FV SAIGON CLINIC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167 fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.
SALONS & SPAS AQUA DAY SPA Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 aquadayspasaigon.com
FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827 famenails.com
GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368 glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.
INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188 Indochine-spa.com.vn Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.
Q SPA & SALON 31Q LY TU TRONG, Q1, TEL: (08) 3905 4609 Qspaandsalon.com An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a massage. Also offers hair styling and facials.
ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY 23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Specialising in all forms of skincare, this is well–designed, ambient and outfitted day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments.
SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB 3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon
THANH SANCTUARY Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0885
THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB 22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 2220 2600 spa1960.vn
THE SPA Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 9007 Saigon Centre, 3M Floor, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1800 thespavietnam.com
THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com
XUAN SPA Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 hyattpure.com
JASMINE SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999 sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.
45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737 Jasminespa.vn Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.
Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best
MEKONG BLISS SPA 112, Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 0563
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FOOD PROMOS
The USDA beef promotion at Amigo Grill on Nguyen Hue
Three-Way Vietnamese Buffet @ Riverside Café, Renaissance Riverside Hotel renaissance-saigon.com At Riverside Café from Sep. 2 till Sep. 9, taste the unique sweetness of Saigon, the spices of Hue and the secret sauce of Hanoi in one buffet, all accompanied by traditional live music. The Vietnamese Three Region Buffet costs VND850,000++ per person at the base level, and VND950,000++ per person with a free flow of beer, wine and soda. Get your National Day plans on the calendar early, and make sure your loved ones are there too.
Red Meat & Fish @ Caravelle caravellehotel.com From Aug. 9 to Aug. 15, the Innovative Ostrich Offerings from Reflections Restaurant brings adventurous dining back to Saigon — in a display of low-fat and high-protein ostrich dishes like ostrich goulash and ostrich kofta. Expand your ostrich horizons to the three-course level
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for VND810,000++, or four courses for VND938,000++. Head on up to Saigon Saigon Bar for a reboot of their classic Fish n’ Chips, from Aug. 16 to Aug. 22. With a twist of enhanced texture and flavours, this mouth-watering opportunity clocks in at VND298,000++ per serving.
Crabulous Dining @ Yu Chu, Intercontinental Asiana Saigon icasianasaigon.com Yu Chu will prepare fresh and succulent crab in a cooking style of your choice, from now to Aug. 31. The chefs at Yu Chu are offering the following cooking styles: fried with fresh garlic and chilli; fried with onions; fried with chilli sauce; fried with glass noodles and XO sauce; or steamed with Chinese wine. A whole crab will be served with a Tiger draught or soft drink for the price of VND350.000++.
Vegetation Devastation! @ Shang Palace shangpalace.com.vn
To celebrate the 15th day of the seventh month on the lunar calendar, Shang’s Hong Kong-trained chefs are rolling out the healthy alternatives, with steamed black mushroom stuffed with tofu, deep-fried seaweed roll with potato, pumpkin and carrot dishes, sautéed asparagus with shimeji mushrooms and an array of mouth-watering desserts. Enjoy this creative changeup from now until Aug. 25.
Amigo Grill Restaurant amigo.wmcvietnam.com With the support of the US Consulate and Amigo’s parent group, WMC Group (aka the people behind Windsor Plaza and Time Square), Amigo Grill on Nguyen Hue is bringing USDA Choice beef to your post-July 4 sensible eating slump. With this subsidy, Amigo is dropping the price on their Omaha, Nebraskaoriginating, USDA-certified cuts by 30 to 40 percent at various points in August. To view these and other offers WMC has on, check wmcvietnam.com/offers.
HCMC GINKGO
pham ngu lao
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / GALLERIES BAKERIES CRUMBS
BAKERY 117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1992 crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.
TOUS LES JOURS
KOREAN BAKERY 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4350
BARS & CLUBS BIA TUOI 33
BIA HOI 33 Bui Vien, Q1
BREAD & BUTTER
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452 With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).
GO2
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 9575
GODMOTHER BAR
RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 129 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3832 4589 godmothersaigon.com Only a couple blocks from the bru-haha of Bui Vien, Godmother’s is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent mojitos, good food, and the weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJ’s.
LE PUB
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty in-
ternational and Vietnamese cuisine. Check out their daily drink specials and Tuesday night pub quizzes.
LONG PHI
FRENCH / RESTOBAR 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.
SAIGON VIBRATIONS
REGGAE BAR 143 Nguyen Trai, Q1 facebook.com/saigon.vibrations Just off The Pham, this intothe-early-hours reggae inspired joint holds regular themed nights all in the name of that most special of sounds — the one from Jamaica.
SEVENTEEN SALOON
THEMED MUSIC BAR 103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007 seventeensaloon.com.vn Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.
SPOTTED COW
INTERNATIONAL / SPORT 111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7670 Alfrescosgroup.com Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts.
THE OBSERVATORY
BAR, ART & MUSIC SPACE Cnr. Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: 0906 359440 theobservatory-hcmc.com The Observatory is DJ Hibiya Line's new youth culture hub, just off Pham Ngo Lao. With its two-floor, nook-andcranny setup, it combines café culture, cocktails, art, DJ nights — now the home base for the Optimist Club — live music and various "hap-
penings", sprinkling them throughout its cozy corners.
THI CAFÉ
LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE 224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2929
T&R TAVERN
DIVE BAR 57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9839
UNIVERSAL BAR
LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633 343933 universalbarsaigon.com
CAFES BOBBY BREWER’S
INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4090 bobbybrewers.com Choose from a full range of café beverages and a fast-food style menu as you watch the latest Hollywood hits in their upstairs lounge. Check website for movie locations and schedule.
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.
ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE 213 Bui Vien, Q1 facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee Set just off the street on the quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an expat and local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured concoctions, from a five-seat coffee bar.
COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.
CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BAM SKATE SHOP
SKATEWEAR / STREET 174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn
BLUE DRAGON
SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING 1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm
BUDGET CLOTHING 147 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019
PAPAYA
BUDGET CLOTHING 232 Bui Vien, Q1 papaya-tshirt.com
ORANGE
BUDGET CLOTHING 152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620 9am to 10pm
U.BEST HOUSE
TRAVEL GEAR 163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588 Ubesthouse.com
CRAFTS & FURNITURE SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9780
EAT BABA’S KITCHEN
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661 babaskitchen.in This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos.
BURRITO REVOLUTION
TEX-MEX / STREET STALL 124 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0902 714882
CHI’S CAFÉ
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502 Chiscafe.com This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service.
CORIANDER
FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De Tham, Q1
LA CANTINA
TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE 175/3 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760
MARGHERITA
ITALIAN / TEX-MEX 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760
PUNJABI INDIAN RESTAURANT
MARATHON
CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ
JJ’S FISH ‘N CHIPS
THAI / VIETNAMESE 16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311
NORTH INDIAN / PUNJAB 40/23 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 3777 monuvn@gmail.com Ignore the non-trendy, holein-the-wall appearance. This side-street Indian serves up some excellent fare at reasonable prices, with a number of Punjabi specialities to boot.
SISTERS CAFE
VIETNAMESE/WESTERN 185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446 Light wood paneling, beige walls and locally themed artwork help to create a fresh and airy ambience in this café-cum-restaurant that is owned by the woman behind Chi’s Café. Also does visa extensions and motorbike rental.
THE HUNGRY PIG
BACON BAR / CAFE 144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533 facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar. A popular hangout.
TIN NGHIA
VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.
WRAP & ROLL 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check out the second floor, junglein-the-wall décor at this particular branch. Unique and refreshing.
ZEUS
GREEK / KEBAB 164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248
ZOOM CAFÉ
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897 vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.
GALLERIES GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019 galeriequynh.com In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.
TATTOO ARTISTS With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city. Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.
LAC VIET TATTOO 608
Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: (08) 3830 4668 106 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 7068 lacviettattoo.com
SAIGON BODY ART
135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311 saigonbodyart.com
SAIGON INK
26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090 tattoovietnam.com
SAIGON TATTOO
31B Nguyen Du, Q1 saigontattoo.net
SAIGON TATTOO GROUP 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339 xamnghethuat.vn
TATTOO SAIGON
128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838 tattoosaigon.com
TATTOO TAM BI
209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383 xamphunnghethuat.com
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district 1
DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao
BARS & CLUBS / BOOKS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
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CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 0906 780081
CHILL SKYBAR
TOP-END BAR & TERRACE Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city.
HOA VIEN
CZECH BREWHOUSE 28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605 hoavien.vn
MZ CLUB
LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 5258 m-zing.com
SHOOTERS BEER HOUSE
CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 31 Le Quy Don, Q1
VUVUZELA
CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 11 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 2281
BOOKS LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com
CAFES (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy pos-
CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657 cafethoaivien.com Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz.
COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3833 3648 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.
DECIBEL
INTERNATIONAL 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115 Decibel.vn Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.
GIVRAL CAFÉ
INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3844 3295 saigongivral.com
KEM NHAN
ICE CREAM PARLOUR 4 Truong Han Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 6763
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LE PETIT CAFÉ
FRENCH 112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2067
MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400 facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation.
THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272 facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe.
THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205 facebook.com/thingscafe Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.
CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BOSSINI
UNISEX CASUAL WEAR 22 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3839 2292
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GAYA CLOTHING
HAND-MADE / DESIGNER Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1495 Gayavietnam.com Clothing is designed and tailor-made by renowned designer Romyda Keth, and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. Gaya sells colourful, sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops.
THUY NGA DESIGN
BUSINESSWEAR / CASUAL 19-21 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 3574 thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm
COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734 overlandclub.jp Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE GAYA
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L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2718 The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of this popular, contemporary café. Enjoy live music on weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese or espresso-based coffee.
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BEER AND GRILL (BG SAIGON)
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003 sam.nguyen197@gmail.com A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories.
District 3
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QUAN NHAU 18A/31/B22 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1
BANKSY CAFE
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ANH DUC’S
CONTEMPORARY CAFE 34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910 Idcafe.net Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.
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CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 79 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, Tel: 0919 584884 info@ahoybeerclub.vn
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sibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker.
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CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1495 gayavietnam.com Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and so-
phisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally. You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.
EAT 27 GRILL
GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grill-style fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix.
CAFÉ IF
VIETNAMESE FRENCH 38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.
COBALT
ROOFTOP RESTOBAR Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullman-saigon-centre.com A tapas-style contemporary
international menu in an equally modern chic space, Cobalt also has panoramic views over the city thanks to its 30th-floor location. Has a focus on wine matching and tasting. A hotel restaurant with a difference.
COM TAM THUAN KIEU
COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 0935 comtamthuankieu.com.vn
DYNASTY
CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town, with a classic dim sum menu.
LION CITY
SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371 lioncityrestaurant.com Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.
MAY RESTAURANT
INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE 3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1277 May-cloud.com Meaning ‘Cloud’, May utilises homemade recipes and broths developed by the restaurateur’s father, such
HCMC as pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger, and 1940s style spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in an Indochine atmosphere.
MONSOON
PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies.
NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE
AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373 steakhouse.com.vn NYSW is well known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, double strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.
QUAN UT UT
AMERICAN VIETNAMESE GRILL 168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500 quanutut.com On-site American grilltype fare in a Vietnamese, wooden table setting. Think ribs, burgers and all things hearty at this immensely popular eatery.
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.
THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB
HEALTH CLUB & POOL Ruby Towers — Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 9009 saigonriverclub.com
GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431 cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade.
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, serving lavish buffets all day. Many cooking stations ranging from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads, cold cuts, cheese plates and desserts.
QUAN BUI
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery.
3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 0183 San-art.org San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/ curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.
TIEM COM GA HAI NAM
CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA STAR FITNESS GYM
HEALTH CLUB & GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
CITYSMART Horizon Tower, 214 Tran Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3526 8833 citysmart.vn CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.
GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7008 gymboreeclasses.com.vn re.com MEDICAL
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.
VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.
WE LINK
SAN ART
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS PARKVIEW
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE
& DENTAL
FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.
COUNSELLING 64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2900 contact@welink.vn Psychological counselling services for individual, group and family. Diverse counsellors and therapists, using Cognitive Behaviour Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French and Spanish spoken.
SALONS & SPAS CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926 catmocspa.com Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services.
SPA TROPIC
79 PHAN KE BINH, Q1, TEL: (08) 3910 5575 spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.
Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best
wordvietnam.com | August 2014 Word | 177
HCMC
district 2
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
DISTRICT 2
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Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. Home décor orders are also available.
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BAKERY 244 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8392 The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien, Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries such as croissants, pain au chocolat, pain raisins, pizza dough, pates feuillete and much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc, Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and Ho Chi Minh City.
LOAVES & FISHES
BAKERY / CAFE 5, Street 11, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4118 harvestbaking.net
PAT A CHOU
FRENCH BAKERY 25 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3743 2445
VOELKER
BAKERY 39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066 voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.
BARS & CLUBS BAAN THAI
SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE
Xa
Lộ
DISTRICT 2 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com A bar and a Thai restaurant all in one, the focus here is not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live sports. Lots of live sports. The Thai cuisine is cooked up by no-holds-barred Thai chefs.
BMV PUB & GRILL 38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel: 01299 839314 facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill With its seven TVs, full-size mezzanine area, pool table and aircon lounge space, BMV is the perfect place in District 2 to relax and watch the sports. Has live music on Thursday and Friday nights, and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in Thao Dien.
BUDDHA BAR
RESTOBAR 7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345 Buddhabarsaigon.com Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys.
MCSORLEY’S
IRISH BAR 4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126 9026006 Standing in the former home of Gaudi, McSorely’s is full of
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CHI LAI
HOME FURNISHINGS 175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543 chilai.com This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.
FEELING TROPIC surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool, reggae parties, comedy nights, and sporting events projected onto the patio wall.
SAIGON OUTCAST
EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198 Saigonoutcast.com Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini- skate park. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and adorable puppies.
THE FAN CLUB
SPORTS BAR Ground Floor, The Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, Q2 dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub 12 quality screens and eight draught beers, music spun by DJs, excellent burgers, quiz nights and barbecues. All in an attractive, contemporary environment.
CAFES AGNES CAFE
COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE 11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, pastries and desserts all day. Offers a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with
a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Now open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed and intimate.
CAFÉ EVITA
LAID-BACK CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 230A Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 3888
CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES LITTLE ANH-EM
BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING 37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories.
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS 80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE AUSTIN HOME
REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023 austinhomeinteriors.com
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks. Also offers a rental service.
THE FURNITURE HOUSE
HOME FURNISHINGS 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643
EAT AGNES CAFÉ
CAFÉ FARE / TEX-MEX 11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable café offering up a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Open until 10pm.
BAAN THAI
PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453
SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
HUNG VUONG PLAZA 126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
PARKSON PLAZA 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
SAIGON CENTRE 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics
SAIGON TAX Trading Centre 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: (08) 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant
VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
ZEN PLAZA 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court baanthai-anphu.com Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. The menu has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.
HCMC SPORTS
BOAT HOUSE
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 Live music, mini-festivals and functions are regular events at this spacious restobar in An Phu on the banks of the Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.
LA CLOSERIE D’ELISA
CRICKET ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia eccsaigon.com
ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com
ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in
PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 samie.cashmiri@gmail. com
SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824
SACCCRICKET@GMAIL.COM SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 suhard.amit@yahoo.com
UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com
VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com
FOOTBALL
AND
RUGBY
024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171. astere@hotmail.fr
SAIGON RAIDERS Saigonraiders.com
SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com
SAIGON SAINTS saigonsaints.com
SPORTS — GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash.com
RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE thesidl.com
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE saigonsoftball.info
SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com
SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com
TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899 James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn
AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL
ULTIMATE FRISBEE
Tel: 0937 683 230 vietnamswans.com
RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Saigon-ultimate.com
LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON gauloisdesaigon.com
X–ROCK CLIMBING
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON
7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794 xrockclimbing.com
Contact Fred on 0919 709
FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT 52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 A tropical garden ambience that is at once French yet contemporary Indochinese is the home of this table d’hote style restaurant and bar. Classic French cuisine at reasonable prices in the heart of Thao Dien.
LA PLANCHA 25 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8521
LU BU
CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN 97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371 luburestaurant.com Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare. Has petanque on the terrace.
Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne.
THE DECK
MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon.com Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.
THE LOOP
HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS 49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA AQUAFIT
AQUABIKING 65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 008985 aquafit.vn
K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY
BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 540030
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)
GENERAL FITNESS 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672 nutrifort.com A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.
CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER
BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2. Tel: 0947 77 13 26 Cyril-and-you.com This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril features the same personalized mentorship Cyril’s clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes in installments of 10. Also has kids activites classes. Monday to Friday every week at 4pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE 100%
MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES 26B Thao Dien, Q2 100percentvn.com
ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
GROCERY & DELI 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.
CLASSIC FINE FOODS
GROCERIES & IMPORTER No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105 classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.
VINO WINE SHOP
WINE SHOP Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059
MEKONG MERCHANT
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobble-stoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.
PAPAGAYO
FRENCH BISTRO / COCKTAILS 18 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q3, Tel: (08) 6252 1333 facebook.com/papagayosaigon
TAMAGO
AUTHENTIC JAPANESE 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634 tamagoresto@gmail.com Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on
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HCMC Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines with a portfolio spanning old and new world as well as everything in between. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new tipple.
HAIRDRESSERS ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON HAIR & BEAUTY Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon. com.vn
CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625 Conceptcoiffure.vn Open daily from 9am to 8pm Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
and IB Diploma Programme (DP).
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335 bisvietnam.com Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC) 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100 ishcmc.com The only fully authorized IB World School in Ho Chi Minh City, ISHCMC has been awarding graduates with an IB Diploma and sending them off to high-profile overseas universities since 1999.
MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam. Tel: (08) 7300 7257 info@eishcmc.com www.eishcmc.com Located in the heart of Thao Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.
AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040 aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE)
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori.edu.vn Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.
SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, perpendicular to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081 saigonkidskindergarten. com SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.
SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827 saigonstarschool.edu.vn Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs.
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SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236 smartkidsinfo.com This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.
THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223 theamericanschool.edu.vn
KIDS FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM www.firstBIKE.com.vn FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development.
MEDICAL & DENTAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.
GREGORY BEALE
THERAPY 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: 01268 654 202 gregbealetherapyfitness. com
SALONS & SPAS AUTHENTIC SPA Thao Dien Village, Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2222
AVEDA HERBAL SPA
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com
QUYNH BEAUTY SALON
104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321
district 3
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS BARS & CLUBS ACOUSTIC
LIVE MUSIC 6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.
CLOUD 9
LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: 0907 502951
CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS
LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE 224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948 031323
WOODSTOCK BAR
MUSIC BAR / CAFE 39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan.Q3. Tel: (08) 39304075 metallicbar.com Showcases a variety of different types of music — anything from rock, pop and rap to Latino — as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica, Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana and Guns ’n Roses. Covered live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music starts at 8.30pm.
PLAN B
CONTEMPORARY BAR 147 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 0987 684761
HIDEAWAY
INTERNATIONAL 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222 Hideawaycafe-saigon.com Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courwrd, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is on the expensive side.
OPERATION: TEAROOM
TEA ROOM 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0169 3583563 operationteavietnam.com Traverse a wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000, in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware available for purchase.
CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BAM SKATE SHOP SKATEWEAR / STREET 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn
BOO STREETWEAR 187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3 boo.vn CRAFTS
& FURNITURE
ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience.
ROCKFANCLUB BAR
ROCK BAR 25C Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: (08) 6290 7489 Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best
171 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 2778 budsicecream.com.vn
CAFES & ICE-CREAM AN’S INTERIOR CAFÉ
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 3398
BUD’S
ICE-CREAM PARLOUR
ATC FURNITURE
ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 39326455 SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 38403946 atc-craft.com Filled with the scent of nature, is it what you are looking for to spice up the living space of your home? Come to ATC FURNITURE, you will find a wide range of moderndesigned products (sofas, chairs, beds...) manufactured from eco-friendly materials (water hyacinth & rattan). Our outdoor (poly rattan) wickerfurniture range is suited to your balcony or garden space. A hanging (hammock) chair is irresistible for complete relaxation after a long day at work.
REMIX DECO
INDOOR FURNITURE 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190 remixdeco.com
EAT AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157 aulacdobrazil.com Latino ambiance with great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. The churrasco, with 12 cuts of barbecued and cured meats plus unlimited salad, is hand carved at your table. Can get busy.
BANH CANH HOANG TY
BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE 70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
BEEFSTEAK NAM SON
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917 Namsonsteak.com
HIGHWAY 4
NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3602 2069 highway4.com Named after the mountain highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to the north, Highway 4 serves up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does excellent Son Tinh branded rice wine.
JOIE DE VIVRE
WESTERN / FRENCH 292/10, Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066 facebook.com/joie.vn
PHO HOA
PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7943
SHRI
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.
HCMC
SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 0039 sushidiningaoi.com Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set lunches. Probably the best sushi in town.
TIB
HUE / VIETNAMESE 187 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7242 Tibrestaurant.com.vn
VIET CHAY
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VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 vietchay.vn
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA & MASSAGE THERAPY
YOGA Tel: 0909 648193 michelle@michellelloyd.com michellelloyd.com American trained and licensed massage therapist and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and massage spaces in Districts 2 and 3. Private and group yoga classes. Home visits available.
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SAIGON BELLY DANCE
BELLY DANCE No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9429 saigonbellydance.com
HAIRDRESSERS YKC HAIR STUDIO
219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791
recognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.
VAS
98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278 vas.edu.vn
MEDICAL & DENTAL STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS CITYSMART 7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488 citysmart.vn CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationally-
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Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.
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Vă n Tầ Ng n uy ễn Th ị
Binh Thanh
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 starlightdental.net Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and
effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.
AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC
CHIROPRACTOR 161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930 www.acc.vn A clinic provides world class Chiropractic, Physiotherapy and Foot Care. We specialize in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries, and all types of foot problems. We also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome in children and adult.
INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: (08). 3925 1990 - 0908 453 338 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.
TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL
EASTERN MEDICINE 187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579
SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com
YKC SPA 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791 ykcspa.com
wordvietnam.com | August 2014 Word | 181
HCMC
STUDENT EYE DEFINING WORDS
N
ot long after we realise that we exist, we become preoccupied with the meaning that carries. Every existence has meaning, like a word in the dictionary — and if you had to flip through all the names with the same first letter as yours, eventually finding your own, what definition would you hope to see? They say babies are similar to a blank piece of paper — and, assuming that paper eventually fills as we grow, who’s writing on it? Who’s the author? You, of course. But unknowingly, others have been filling in their own pieces of paper: about you and everyone else they know. You’d reckon that your own definition of yourself is the one that matters most. Yet we try so hard, ever since we can barely walk, to please others, to integrate ourselves, to be part of the whole — and give our self-definitions a good meaning in others’ hearts as well.
‘weird’. My values were a bit different from the other kids’ — for example, I didn’t think crushing ants was fun. It was hard, but even Robinson Crusoe eventually found Friday. I too came across a friend, and realised I could share what matters to me with others if I tried. But as we grow up, we all betray the honest little words that make us what we are and exchange them for good words, better words — things that we wish we could be, but aren’t. This is why I succumbed to peer pressure in the past, and why some of my friends still do. We have a need to live in a society with people, but at one point that ‘need’ starts to become a weight on our shoulders. It’s easy to put “be who you are” on a poster or Instagram photo, but once so many of the things we should be crowd our mind and push out who we really are, what do we do?
Easier Said Than Done
With more experience, we see that even our personalities are like fashion trends
As a primary school kid, my word was
182 | Word August 2014 | wordvietnam.com
Rebuilding Bridges
over time, the ultimate accessories. We imitate the one-dimensional poses shown in the movies, and our essences get further and further away from who we really are. But how do you wear the things that make you truly and deeply happy? I’ve got a theory — in the end, it’s about being friends with yourself. Remember how you used to take another kid’s hands in the playground whether you liked it or not? As good, caring relationships grow, we constantly go out of our way to understand the ones we love. And if they’re in trouble, we pry them out of their sadness. If you ever feel like you are currently at a loss of your own words — the ones that define you — you need to slowly unbind yourself from the chains society made for you. You need to rekindle your relationship with yourself, and slowly write down the little words that define you on your own piece of paper. As you act them out, the definitions people give of you will still not be quite as you expect them to be — but you might be pleasantly surprised. — To Thu Phuong
HCMC complex’s lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash courts, pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.
phu my hung
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL Đông yễn Ch
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INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS 206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel: 01654 058401 / 01629 546534 cezsaigon@gmail.com
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DISTRICT 7 PHU MY HUNG
BAKERIES L’AMOUR
BAKERY & CAFE Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072 lamourbakery.com.vn
SAVOURE
BAKERY Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7
SIMRANS
BAKERY SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908 828552 simrans.sg
BARS & CLUBS BANANA BAR
EXPAT BAR SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3282 A downstairs pool table, an open, street side terrace and specials on Tiger draft, this fun but slightly run-down joint is a local haunt for many a resident of Saigon South.
PEACHES
CURRY PUB S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt.
RUBY SOHO
CARTOON BAR S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900
THE TAVERN
EXPAT & SPORTS BAR R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7355 bellavitafurniture.com
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110; S17 – Sky Garden, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-creations.org
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-quilts.org
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com
EAT BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON
INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592 boomarang.com.vn Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.
CHAM CHARM
LUXURY INDOCHINA 2 Phan Van Chuong, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 9999
EL GAUCHO
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304
MING DYNASTY
LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 5555
NATHALIE’S
THAI / VIETNAMESE S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0822 nathaliesrestaurant.com
SALT & PEPPER
PAN-ITALIAN The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 4848
SCOTT AND BINH’S
INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948 901465 bizuhotel.com/main/pages/ scottbinhs.php Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this restaurant boasts a full bar, ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients.
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB
GYM, POOL, SQUASH 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277 The-crescent.com Overlooking the Crescent
Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833 theabcis.com Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British government inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.
CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 13C Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412 3456 cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence.
KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE Crescent Residence 2, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907 099 480 kindermusik-vietnam.com
LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN 102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052 lgkids.vn
RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122 renaissance.edu.vn Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350seat theatre, swimming pool,
mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.
SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901 ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to highschool, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.
MEDICAL & DENTAL
AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 www.americaneyecentervn. com American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.
FV HOSPITAL
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care.
HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER EASTERN MEDICINE 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best
wordvietnam.com | August 2014 Word | 183
Ảnh cung cấp bởi Lê Văn Hiếu
Ngài Thống Đốc
Nằm trong danh sách những người nổi tiếng, ông Lê Văn Hiếu, người Úc gốc Việt, sẽ trở thành người Châu Á đầu tiên giữ vai trò thống đốc bang Nam Úc vào tháng 9 tới. Jon Aspin đã có cuộc nói chuyện với người đàn ông đại diện cho Nữ Hoàng Elisabeth II này
Đ
ối với ông Hiếu, nó không hẳn là vì mục đích du lịch. Khoảng 37 năm về trước, trên một con thuyền gỗ mỏng manh cùng với 40 người khác, ông Hiếu đến cảng Darwin và hai ngư dân địa phương — trên tay cầm bia — là hai người Úc đầu tiên mà ông gặp. “Họ thấy chúng tôi, đưa vài thứ đồ hộp, chúc chúng tôi một ngày tốt lành và tiếp tục đi tiếp,” ông Hiếu nhớ lại. Đó là năm 1977. Lúc ấy, ông không biết tiếng Anh, Paul Hogan cũng chưa sản xuất bộ phim truyền hình ‘Crocodile Dundee’, bạn cũng chỉ có thể rút khoảng 25 đô Úc (397,000 đồng) từ máy ATM và nhóm nhạc The Bee Gees của Úc lúc bấy giờ lại khuấy động các sàn nhạc với bản Stayin’ Alive — một bản nhạc có cái tên khá hợp với hoàn cảnh của 40 người tị nạn trên
184 | Word August 2014 | wordvietnam.com
chiếc thuyền gần hết nhiên liệu và nước này. Ông cười nhẹ khi nhớ tới khoảng thời gian đó — lúc lênh đênh trên biển hơn một tháng, ông tới Úc với “hai bàn tay trắng cùng với một vali vô hình chứa đầy những ước mơ.” Giờ đây, trong góc văn phòng làm việc ở trung tâm Adelaide với vai trò chủ tịch Ủy Ban Dân Tộc và Đa Văn Hóa Nam Úc, một tấm áp phích của Cao Ủy Liên Hiệp Quốc Về Người Tị Nạn được treo trên tường. Câu nói của một người đàn ông cũng là một người tị nạn nổi tiếng mà ai cũng biết — Ngài Albert Einstein — được in trên tấm áp phích: “Đồ đạc không phải là thứ duy nhất mà một người tị nạn mang đi khi đến một đất nước mới”. Đối với ông Lê Văn Hiếu, không có câu nói nào phù hợp hơn câu nói này, vì vào ngày 2/9 tới đây, tất cả mọi thứ ông đã mang tới đất nước mới này sẽ trở
thành một cột mốc vĩ đại. Ông sẽ chính thức trở thành thống đốc của bang Nam Úc, người Châu Á đầu tiên và tất nhiên cũng là người tị nạn đầu tiên đạt được vị trí này.
Một Bước Tiến Vượt Bậc
Rõ ràng, đó là một hành trình biến đổi từ một người tị nạn tới vị trí phó phòng cao cấp của Khối Thịnh Vượng Chung. Thống đốc là một chức vụ phi chính trị trong đời sống hằng ngày của Úc và thường dành cho những huyền thoại Olympic, những nhà vật lý hạt nhân hay các tướng đã nghỉ hưu. Những người này thường có những cái tên họ đại loại như Tennyson, Hindmarsh và Archibald. Còn cái tên Lê Văn? Thật sự là một câu chuyện tuyệt vời và bạn không cần phải là một người am hiểu hệ thống Westminster để nhận ra tầm quan trọng của việc biến những ước mơ trong cái vali vô
hình kia thành một chức vụ quyền lực được ban cấp không bởi bất cứ ai ngoài Nữ Hoàng — người mà ông sẽ đại diện cho tiểu bang từ ngày 2/9 — một vị trí mà ông miêu tả như là “một nhà lãnh đạo đầy cảm hứng và đáng ngưỡng mộ”. Ông sẽ không tìm cách thể hiện quyền lực của mình. Về mặt pháp lý, ông giờ đây có quyền loại bỏ các quyết định của chính phủ, nhưng ông quá hiền lành để làm điều đó — cả vừa quyến rũ lẫn hài hước. Là một người khiêm tốn, ông cho hay ông thật sự nhỏ bé trước cái vinh dự cao quý và đặc quyền kia. Đến vùng đất mới với người vợ trẻ, cả hai "đều tràn đầy sức sống", ông đã xây dựng một cuộc sống mang đậm chất Việt Nam, ông làm việc chăm chỉ, hết mình với học tập, mạnh mẽ và luôn luôn cố gắng làm điều đúng đắn. “Là một người Việt Nam, tôi thừa hưởng những tính cách của con người Việt Nam qua hơn 4,000 năm lịch sử. Chúng tôi phải chứng minh là chúng tôi rất quyết tâm, rất tập trung và mạnh mẽ. Chúng tôi chịu đựng được khó khăn, nghịch cảnh và tiếp tục chiến đấu cho đến khi chúng tôi vượt qua chúng. Càng có nhiều thử thách, chúng tôi càng có động lực để vượt qua, và chính vì điều này, tôi tự hào khi máu người Việt Nam đang chảy trong mình,” ông giải thích.
Bản Chất Con Người
Tất nhiên tên của ông vẫn chưa nổi tiếng bằng cái tên món ăn nổi tiếng của người Việt Nam — phở — nhưng ông danh giá. Ông tốt nghiệp với bằng cử nhân kinh tế và sau đó là bằng cao học của đại học Adelaide, và rồi ông trở thành thành viên của Hội CPA Úc và là một điều tra viên của Ủy Ban
Ảnh bởi Jon Aspin
"Chúng tôi phải chứng minh là chúng tôi rất quyết tâm, tập trung và mạnh mẽ. Chúng tôi chịu đựng được khó khăn, nghịch cảnh và tiếp tục chiến đấu cho đến khi chúng tôi vượt qua chúng. Càng có nhiều thử thách, chúng tôi càng có động lực để vượt qua, và chính vì điều này, tôi tự hào khi máu người Việt Nam đang chảy trong mình,”
Chứng Khoán và Đầu Tư Úc (ASIC) từ đầu những năm 1990. Năm 1991, ông được bổ nhiệm làm thành viên của ban ngành mà hiện tại ông đang công tác và theo đó là những giải thưởng như huy chương Ngày Quốc Khánh Úc năm 1996 và huy chương Kỷ Niệm Một Trăm Năm Liên Đoàn cho sự tiến bộ của ngành đa văn hóa vào năm 2001. Ông cũng nhận được học vị tiến sĩ danh dự của hai trường đại học cho những thành tựu của mình. Năm 2007, ông được chỉ định làm phó thống đốc bang Nam Úc, và năm 2010 ông được tặng Huân Chương Úc. Mặc dù như thế, ông thừa nhận rằng vào vị trí của những người đi trước và làm nó tiến bộ hơn là niềm đam mê của ông. “Đừng hỏi tôi nó xảy ra như thế nào và tại sao bởi vì tôi cũng không biết. Tất cả những gì tôi biết là chúng tôi đã đến vùng đất này, chúng tôi cố gắng học tập, chớp lấy thời cơ, làm việc chăm chỉ… nhưng quan trọng hơn hết là vợ tôi và tôi yêu mọi người. Chúng tôi quan tâm đến người khác, chúng tôi thích gặp gỡ mọi người và chúng tôi cố gắng hiểu những câu chuyện đằng sau mỗi con người mà chúng tôi gặp trên đường đời,” ông chia sẻ. Trong vai trò là thống đốc, ông chủ yếu sẽ thực hiện các thủ tục nghi lễ, sống trong tòa nhà chính phủ của bang Nam Úc và tiếp tục sánh vai làm việc với những người mà ông đại diện. Đây cũng bao gồm cả cộng đồng người Việt mà theo ông là có vai trò quan trọng ở Úc. Ông cảm thấy biết ơn. Biết ơn cho những cơ hội mà đất nước này đã mang lại cho ông và cho điều mà ông miêu tả nó theo cái cách của người dân Úc là "cơ hội để có một cuộc sống
tốt hơn" cho tất cả mọi người. “Khi bạn chìm ngập trong nền văn hóa khác, bạn sẽ luôn đánh giá cao nền văn hóa riêng của mình, và khi càng tìm hiểu về nền văn hóa khác, tôi càng đánh giá cao nền văn hóa Việt Nam mà tôi tự hào là mình có được,” ông cho hay.
Tiểu Sử TÊN: Lê Văn Hiếu, Thống đốc mới đắc cử của Nam Úc NƠI SINH: Quảng Trị, 1954 NGÀY ĐẾN ÚC: 21/11/1977 TRÌNH ĐỘ: Đại Học Đà Lạt, Đại Học Adelaide GIA ĐÌNH VÀ SỞ THÍCH: lập gia đình và có hai con trai Kim và Don — cả hai đều được lấy theo tên của những cựu đội trưởng môn cricket của Úc. Gốc người Chăm, là công chức nhà nước và thích ăn. wordvietnam.com | August 2014 Word | 185
PHỎNG VẤN NHANH
Kiến trúc sư kiêm nhà tư vấn Melissa Merryweather thông qua công ty Tư Vấn Xanh Châu Á đang nỗ lực thúc đẩy kiến trúc bền vững và quy hoạch đô thị ở Việt Nam. Ảnh bởi Kyle Phanroy Tình yêu của tôi với kiến trúc bắt đầu... lúc tôi còn rất nhỏ, khi được bố mang theo tới các công trình xây dựng (bố tôi là một chủ công trình). Đối với tôi khi đó, những công trường thật tuyệt vời… Tôi rất thích những thứ ngổn ngang nơi đây.
Mười lăm năm ở London đối với tôi… là
điều kỳ diệu. Tôi tới đó năm 1983 – thời điểm pha trộn giữa phong cách punk và tân lãng mạn – với những sáng tạo của người Anh trong nghệ thuật, âm nhạc, thời trang và kiến trúc đang ở thời điểm cao trào nhất. Tôi đã bị cuốn theo.
Tôi chuyển tới Việt Nam bởi vì… tôi đã cưới phải một gã tồi. (Nhưng tôi vẫn ở lại). Kiến trúc ở đây… đang trải qua một quá trình thay đổi, nơi những nhà quy hoạch bắt đầu coi trọng chất lượng, vòng đời và cả thiết kế của các công trình nữa. Tuy nhiên, khá buồn khi phải nói rằng đã gần như quá muộn để cứu vãn những tòa nhà với kiến trúc lịch sử độc đáo bởi nếu giữ được, chúng sẽ giúp ta tránh khỏi cảm giác đang ở giữa những tòa nhà hiện đại bằng kính mà có thể thấy ở bất kỳ thành phố nào. Ngược lại, chúng tạo ra cảm giác riêng biệt, một cái tôi rất riêng ở đây. Vẫn chưa có nhiều kiến trúc sư tạo ra được một “đẳng cấp Việt Nam” nhưng một số người như Võ Trọng Nghĩa đang bắt đầu tạo dựng được điều đó.
Dự án ưa thích của tôi ở Việt Nam… rất
không may có tuổi đời ngắn. Tôi đã từng làm việc với khách hàng là bà Suzanne Letch để biến hai ngôi nhà xấu xí giả kiến trúc thời Pháp thuộc trở thành một phòng tranh hiện đại, hai mặt tiền tràn ngập ánh sáng được khuếch tán với những chi tiết ấn tượng. Những họa sỹ đã thực sự thích thú với không gian mới này. Nhưng người chủ nhà đã quyết định lấy lại, chứ không gia hạn hợp đồng cho thuê với chúng tôi.
Dự án kỳ lạ nhất mà tôi đã thực hiện ở đây là… sáu sân chơi ở Lào Cai cho tổ chức Cứu
trợ Trẻ em (Save The Children). Làm việc với cấu trúc xã hội của làng xã truyền thống làm tôi sáng tỏ ra rất nhiều điều, đặc biệt là quá trình đưa ra quyết định của họ. Họ làm việc khá hiệu quả!
Sự thay đổi về cảnh quan đô thị ở đây… là
rõ ràng. Quy hoạch ở Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh tập trung vào yếu tố trung hòa, và chưa bao giờ có những chiến lược rõ nét. Vì vậy không có nhiều công viên. Hà Nội đã quyết định, có vẻ như là sẽ bỏ qua hoàn toàn những trung tâm đã chật cứng và thay vào đó tập trung 100% năng lượng vào phát triển những trung tâm đô thị mới về phía Đông Nam của thành phố. Điều này thực sự ngoài sức tưởng tượng. Tôi khuyên bạn nên tới tham khảo.
186 | Word August 2014 | wordvietnam.com
Việc bảo tồn những tòa nhà cũ… là việc khó nhưng rất đáng làm. Tôi đã khóc thực sự khi tôi thấy những phần quý giá của thành phố Hồ Chí Minh bị đập phá. Người ta sẽ hối hận về điều này. Tạo ra những khoảng không mới cho những phát triển mới… là khẩn cấp. Bùng
nổ dân số đang diễn ra. Có rất nhiều những vùng đô thị chưa được sử dụng hết năng suất, chất lượng thấp, nó nên được sử dụng để phát triển lại hơn là hy sinh những khu phố lịch sử nhỏ bé, hoặc cách khác là tạo ra những khu tổ hợp đô thị ngổn ngang không có kết thúc. Chúng ta cũng cần những hành lang giao thông hiệu quả kết nối những khu vực phát triển ưu tiên.
Tôi lập ra công ty Tư Vấn Xanh Châu Á…
như một thử nghiệm. Tôi nghĩ rằng nó như một phòng thí nghiệm với tổ hợp những sản phẩm về giáo dục cũng như tư vấn, có tới 50% được “đóng góp” cho Hội Đồng Kiến Trúc Xanh Việt Nam, các trường đại học, các tổ chức phi chính phủ, v.v. Đây là một công ty với nhiệm vụ tối quan trọng là dẫn đường và chuyển đổi thị trường xây dựng “xanh” ở Việt Nam.
Vận động mọi người để tạo ra những tòa nhà có tính bền vững… là cần thiết. Cũng
giống như làm nông nghiệp bền vững, chúng ta phải học cách tạo ra những sản phẩm với những công cụ chúng ta có. Tuy vậy, đây cũng không phải là mục tiêu lý tưởng đơn thuần. Những công trình bền vững mang tính kinh tế lại nhiều hơn những công trình không bền vững. Chúng là những khoản đầu tư tốt hơn, và những ai làm việc hay sống trong những tòa nhà đó có sức khỏe tốt hơn và thỏa mãn hơn với môi trường đã được xây dựng của họ.
Vấn đề của những công trình “xanh” là… mọi người nghĩ rằng chúng đắt đỏ và không có tính thực tế. Tôi đã có những buổi giảng dạy để xóa dần nghi ngờ này. Nhưng chắc chắn nó là một sự chuyển đổi về kỹ năng và ngành công nghiệp xây dựng phải nỗ lực để thực hiện sự chuyển biến này.
Việc cấp chứng chỉ cho những công trình xanh… giống như một cuốn sổ tay về thế
nào là sự bền vững. Nó giúp cho những chuyên gia tư vấn và người sở hữu hiểu khái niệm tòa nhà xanh là gì và cung cấp những tiêu chuẩn mà họ có thể thống nhất. Đó là một khởi đầu tốt.
Nếu tôi có thể thay đổi một điều trong thời gian tôi ở Việt Nam… tôi sẽ gầy dựng công ty của tôi sớm hơn rất nhiều. Và có lẽ giờ tôi vẫn còn đang làm công việc thiết kế.
SỰ KIỆN MARKETING VÀ TRUYỀN THÔNG M2
Hầu hết các sự kiện marketing thường là dịp để gặp gỡ và làm vài ly với những người thú vị, nhưng buổi họp mặt mới của M2 thì lại đi chuyên sâu đúng mục đích hơn. Được tổ chức hàng tháng cho những người hoạt động trong lĩnh vực quảng cáo, marketing, truyền thông để giao lưu, gặp gỡ những chuyên gia trong ngành, sự kiện M2 vào ngày 6/8 tại Cargo này sẽ tạo điều kiện cho những người quan tâm được học hỏi thêm. Ba diễn giả — Andrew Duck, Giám Đốc Điều Hành của Truyền Thông Khán Giả, sẽ nói về chủ đề Xuất Bản Trong Thời Đại Kỹ Thuật Số; Nguyễn Phi, Giám Đốc Điều Phối của Indochina, Tổ Chức Nhượng Quyền Thương Mại Thế Giới, sẽ bàn luận với chủ đề Từ Việt Nam Ra Thế Giới — Liệu Các Nhãn Hiệu Việt Nam Có Làm Được?; và Aske Ostergard, Giám Đốc Điều Hành Của Epinion Asia, sẽ nói về Thước Đo Khán Giả Thời Kỹ Thuật Số. Mỗi diễn giả sẽ diễn thuyết từ 15 đến 20 phút, và sẽ trả lời các câu hỏi. Sau cùng sẽ có tiệc mừng sự kiện M2 lần này. Đêm sự kiện M2 Marketing và Truyền Thông sẽ được tổ chức vào ngày 6/8 lúc 21 giờ tại Cargo, 7 Nguyễn Tất Thành, Q4. Giá vé đặt trước là 250,000 đồng, và mua tại cửa là 350,000 đồng. Để biết thêm chi tiết hoặc đăng ký tham gia xin ghé trang web m2.vietnambusiness.tv/enews/august
Tuyến 1
Tuyến 2
Xây Dựng Lại Thành Phố
Đường tàu điện ngầm được thi công nhưng sẽ tạo nhiều khó khăn cho giao thông Sài Gòn
D
ự án Vệ sinh Môi trường Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh khởi động năm 2001 tạo bước khởi đầu cho một cuộc đại tu hệ thống nước của thành phố. Kênh Nhiêu Lộc ở Quận 3 được nạo vét, cùng với việc 51 km cống thoát nước kết hợp cấp một, cấp hai và 375 km cống thoát nước cấp 3 được thay thế. Việc nâng cấp này đã khiến cho rất nhiều con đường bị đào xới và giao thông bị ùn tắc. Ước tính khoảng 1,2 triệu người được hưởng lợi từ dự án này, nhưng giao thông đã bị ngưng trệ rất nhiều. Dự án lớn mang tính thay đổi thành phố mới nhất là việc xây dựng hệ thống tàu điện ngầm, và cho tới thời điểm cuối tháng 7, thi công cho tuyến số 1 cuối cùng cũng khởi động ở trung tâm thành phố Hồ Chí Minh. Ba ga tàu điện ngầm được quy hoạch tại Bến Thành, Nhà hát Thành phố và khu vực nhà máy Ba Son, với 11 nhà ga khác sẽ được xây nổi. Việc xây dựng đã được tiến hành tại nhà ga cuối đối diện Chợ Bến Thành. Nằm 40m sâu trong lòng đất, nhà ga trung tâm này sẽ bao gồm hai phần: cao ba tầng để lắp đặt 4 hệ thống tàu – tầng một dành cho Tuyến Số 1 và 3A, tầng hai dành cho Tuyến Số 2 và tầng 3 dành cho Tuyến Số 4. Những tầng hầm này sẽ là nơi tập trung các quầy hàng bán lẻ và một trung tâm thương mại rộng 25.500 mét vuông sẽ được bố trí ngầm dọc đường Lê Lợi.
Tuyến Số 1 và 2
Hiện tại công trình tại Ga Nhà hát Thành phố đã được thực hiện, khu vực trung tâm chỉ tập trung làn xe con trên đường Lê Lợi và một phần của đường Nguyễn Huệ đã cấm xe cộ đi vào. Phần bùng binh và khu vực chia đường nằm trên giao lộ giữa hai đường này đã bị phá dỡ để thi công dự án, dẫn tới giao thông trở nên quá tải trên đường Lê Thánh Tôn. Dự kiến dự án tàu điện ngầm sẽ thông xe vào năm 2018 và phục vụ số lượng khách khoảng 160.000 người mỗi ngày – và chỉ có một phần nhỏ của các tuyến chạy ngầm: tuyến số 1 sẽ có ảnh hưởng ít tới cảnh quan và không khí của khu trung tâm Sài Gòn. Tuyến số 2, tuy nhiên, ban đầu dự kiến sẽ chạy từ Bến Thành tới Tham Lương ở Quận 12 sẽ tạo ra nhiều gián đoạn cho giao thông. Tuyến này chạy ngầm dọc đường Cách Mạng Tháng Tám trước khi đi về hướng Củ Chi và Tây Ninh, việc thi công này sẽ tạo ra ảnh hưởng lớn trên một khu vực đã vốn dĩ hay tắc nghẽn. Việc thi công Tuyến 3 chạy từ Bình Thạnh tới Bình Tân cũng sẽ ảnh hưởng tới giao thông của thành phố, và tuyến số 4 cũng sẽ như vậy bởi nó sẽ nối Văn Thánh với Tân Bình. Có một mạng lưới tàu điện ngầm rộng lớn là việc sống còn đối với thành phố Hồ Chí Minh. Nhưng con đường tới đó đối với người dân còn khá gian nan. — Nick Ross
HỘI CHỢ TỪ THIỆN 3A STATION
3A Station được thành lập lặng lẽ — thật ra thì cũng không lặng lẽ lắm, điều đó tùy thuộc vào loại thông tin bạn đọc trên truyền thông — nhưng giờ đây họ dùng toàn bộ khả năng của mình để tổ chức một buổi từ thiện. Hội Chợ Từ Thiện 3A Station đầu tiên sẽ được tổ chức vào ngày 16 – 17/8 với những gian hàng địa phương cùng những sản phẩm thủ công được trưng bày trên hơn 40 bàn, cùng một phương thức khuyến mãi độc đáo — hai lượt ‘Happy Time Sales’ diễn ra trong vòng 30 phút cho mỗi ngày, lúc đó tất cả các sản phẩm sẽ được giảm giá 10%. Từ đó trở đi, họ sẽ tổ chức hội chợ cuối tuần vào các cuối tuần của tuần thứ nhất và thứ ba hàng tháng, dù mưa hay nắng. Thêm vào đó, 3A Station sẽ đứng ra nâng cao nhận thức vì từ thiện — và họ sẽ ủng hộ giúp đỡ tổ chức Saigon Children’s Charity trong hội chợ lần đầu này. Thức ăn và các tiết mục biểu diễn nghệ thuật cũng sẽ được phục vụ. Hội Chợ Từ Thiện 3A Station sẽ diễn ra trong hai ngày 16 – 17/8 tại 3A Tôn Đức Thắng, Q1, bắt đầu từ 9 giờ đến 20 giờ. Để biết thêm chi tiết, xin liên hệ Trang theo số 0902 373403
NGHE DẠO HÀ NỘI
Năm 2013, Nghe Dạo Hà Nội là một trong những chương trình đi dạo và lắng nghe âm thanh địa phương được tổ chức không chỉ ở Hà Nội, mà cả khu vực Châu Á. Sử dụng các ứng dụng của điện thoại thông minh, bản đồ âm thanh và GPS, nghe dạo là buổi đi dạo và lắng nghe âm thanh phố phường Hà Nội thông qua điện thoại và tai nghe, nó sẽ dẫn dắt người tham gia di dạo qua các khu vực của Hà Nội. Giống như các tác phẩm nghệ thuật hình ảnh, chuyến đi dạo này tinh tế nhờ những âm thanh quá khứ của Hà Nội, những câu chuyện của những cư dân địa phương, âm thanh của môi trường xung quanh gợi nhớ những không gian và thời gian khác nhau, và âm nhạc được thực hiện bởi các dàn nhạc vô hình. Cuối năm nay, Nghe Dạo Hà Nội sẽ trở lại thành phố thủ đô với một điểm nhấn — ban tổ chức của sự kiện văn hóa này sẽ mang nó đến thành phố Copenhagen của Đan Mạch. Với sự hỗ trợ từ Đại Sứ Quán Đan Mạch và Hiệp Hội Nhạc Sỹ Đan Mạch, chương trình cũng kêu gọi sự ủng hộ trực tuyến thông qua chiến dịch cộng đồng đóng góp. Để giúp trải nghiệm văn hóa độc đáo này tiếp tục được duy trì, xin vui lòng ghé trang web j.mp/soundwalk-igg. Trang web sẽ cung cấp những thước phim giải thích về chương trình Nghe Dạo này, cùng với những thông tin hữu ích cho bạn, và bằng cách nào để ủng hộ. Để biết thêm chi tiết, xin email về hello@soundwalkproject. com hoặc liên hệ Vân theo số 0979 833168
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The final say
PERSPECTIVES
HANOI
Writers Abroad The low cost of living and the otherworldliness of Hanoi makes it a haven for writers searching out headspace. Words by Daniel Jenkins
T
he man at the bar next to me has one very long finger nail. He’s going in. That woman across the street, squatting over a chicken, plucking it with slender fingers in bloodied water: she’s going in. The smell of pork rotting in the heat, the honk of horns, the wires twisting like grapevines around a trellis: they’re all going in. But then I remember. I’m supposed to be writing a post-modern examination of the value of French existentialism when superimposed upon the vast Australian outback, seen through the eyes of two Russian orphans. What’s the good of this Vietnamese stuff? Why am I here again? I’m in Hanoi to write. A novel, to be specific, but not something that actually requires living in Hanoi. What it does require, though, is distance — distance from the subject matter, distance from a real job, distance from credit cards, high rent, expensive mangoes, distance from shitty, weak coffee. After a few years here, working with varying degrees of success on the same novel, I’ve encountered many others in the same situation. Writers, of sorts, though they, like me, mostly teach English. We might not all achieve our glorious goals, but at least we know what relative clauses are, which could prove handy. And I know a poet who now writes only in the phonetic alphabet.
The Diaspora And there are others. I spoke with Shauna McCoole — an Irish expat and author of the play Impermanence, which was recently staged with great success at Hanoi’s BBQ Garden. She also teaches kindergarten. “Working with children has made me less self-conscious, more free to explore
certain themes in my writing,” she said. And those themes? Themes of transience, of ‘impermanence’. “Life in Hanoi moves very fast. People come and go. The friendships you make are ever-changing.” While her play was staged in Hanoi, it was mostly set in India. And then there is Hannah Rubenstein, an expat from the States, who has recently moved here from Nairobi. She’s working full-time on a piece of literary non-fiction on the topic of forced marriage. Forced marriage in Hanoi? I wondered. No, forced marriage in Kenya, India and England. “So why Hanoi?” “I find the environment very conducive to writing,” she explained. “As the weather has been getting hotter, I’ve been escaping to nearby coffee shops with more reliable AC and a steady supply of coffee.” She said she does find bits of Hanoi “seeping into her writing”, but went on to admit they’re mostly related to the weather. There is, I realise, as a shoe-shine man catches my eye, something terribly favourable to creative entrepreneurship in Hanoi. It’s not just writers: there are story slams and open mic nights, improv sessions and themed parties, plays, fire shows and shoe-shiners. No one makes any money, of course (I whisk the shoe shiner away with a violent shake of the head), but that’s hardly the point. The point is distance. We’re all from somewhere else. “An integral part of storytelling is negotiating distance and intimacy,” Hannah said. “By reconsidering and reexamining my preconceptions about how the world works, by living outside of my comfort zone, I can grow as a person — and hopefully my writing will too.” Shauna also sees the value of a certain
separation between project and place. “Distance gives you a wider perspective. You learn to write for a wider audience. Sometimes you need to go away from your subject matter in order to fully understand it.”
That Old Little Issue... Money So is that what we are? Creative refugees fleeing the tyranny of home? I am fairly sure the shoe shiner isn’t, but perhaps he’s shining into our shoes memories of some provincial sunset, each dab of shine a touch of Lao Cai? But then, as the shoe-shiner knows, there’s always the matter of money. We like to ignore it, us writers, but it’s always an issue. At least at home it is. Hannah pointed out: “I have the freedom and opportunity here to spend my days writing, something I wouldn’t have back in the US.” There are common threads that seem to unite all writers here, other than a preoccupation with iced coffee and India. Affordability, distance and the chance to avoid full-time work seem the most prominent. With that in mind, I order a double gin and tonic and get back to my own novel. The sporadic, insomniac cries of a rooster pierce through Hang Be; at Truc Bach an old woman stands knee deep in water, scattering pages from an unknown book into the lake’s inky shallows; on the back road to Noi Bai, lines of whole thit cho lie baking in the sun; from Long Bien Bridge the city rises like a half-formed, pastel diorama, banana trees swaying below. I could write about that. Instead I go back inside Le Pub. Back to my Russian orphans pondering Sartre 300 clicks north of Perth. I turn up the air-con. Order a coffee. I have a class in an hour.
“I’m in Hanoi to write. A novel, to be specific, but not something that actually requires living in Hanoi. What it does require, though, is distance” 188 | Word August 2014 | wordvietnam.com
Photos provided by Hieu Van Le
The final say
MANY FACES
NATIONAL
The Guv’nor Joining a long list of famous names, in September Vietnamese-born Hieu Van Le will become the first Asian to take up the role of Governor of South Australia. Jon Aspin speaks to the man who is about to become a representative of Queen Elisabeth II
“G
’day mate, welcome to Australia!” Been ‘Down Under’ lately? Sound familiar? It is to Hieu Van Le, but not because he likes travelling. It’s because it was with these words, laconically expressed to him by two local fisherman in Darwin Harbour — beers in hand — that Le was welcomed to his new homeland 37 years ago. The fact that he was in a flimsy wooden boat packed with 40 other people only makes the phrase more remarkable. How could it not stick with him? “They saw us, raised their cans, said “g’day“ and simply moved on,” he recalls. That was in 1977. He spoke no English. Paul ‘Crocodile Dundee’ Hogan hadn’t
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made a movie yet and three adopted Aussies called The Bee Gees had just resuscitated disco with Stayin’ Alive. Quite timely for 40 refugees packed into a boat low on fuel and water. He smiles warmly about that moment now, but having travelled on the seas for over a month, Le says he arrived in Australia with “nothing but an invisible suitcase filled with dreams”. Today, in his corner office in Adelaide’s CBD, where Le sits as chairman of the South Australian Multicultural and Ethnic Affairs Commission, there hangs a poster from the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees. It contains a quote from a man we all know — and a fellow refugee himself — Sir Albert
Einstein. “A bundle of belongings isn’t the only thing a refugee brings to his new country,” it reads. In Hieu Van Le’s case, it couldn’t be more apt because on Sep. 2, everything he has brought to his adopted country will come to a remarkable culmination. On this date he will be officially appointed the Governor of South Australia — the first Asian to achieve the rank, and certainly the first refugee.
A Giant Leap... To clarify, that’s a journey from boat person to vice-regal office holder in a Commonwealth land. The Governor is a non-political position in Australian public life usually reserved for Olympic legends, nuclear physicists and retired military ‘sirs’.
These are men with names like Tennyson, Hindmarsh and Archibald. Van Le? It’s a fantastic story and you don’t have to be a fan of the Westminster system to realise the enormity of going from an invisible suitcase to the constitutional power bestowed upon him by none other than the Queen herself. That’s Elizabeth II — who from Sep. 2 he will represent in the state — a figurehead he describes as “an inspiring and admirable leader”. He’s not looking to exercise power though. On paper he can now dismiss the government, but he’s much too nice a man for that — charming and well-humoured. An unassuming man, he says he is deeply humbled by the honour and privilege now being given to him. A man who — since his arrival with his young wife, both ‘full of life’ — has built that life by sticking to the Vietnamese traits he’s never forgotten: hard work, dedication to study, resilience and always trying to do the right thing. “As a Vietnamese I inherited the traits of our people from over [4,000] years of history,” he explains. “As a people we have proven time and time again that we are very determined, very focused and very resilient. We can endure hardship, adversity and keep working until we overcome it. The more the challenge, the more we can motivate to overcome, and for this I am very proud to have Vietnamese blood.”
Working with Others Of course his name hasn’t just been plucked from a bowl of pho to take up the role. Le has pedigree. First graduating with an economics degree and later an MBA from
Adelaide University, he then became a member of the Australian Society of CPAs and was a senior investigator with the Australian Securities and Investments Commission (ASIC) from the early 1990s. In 1991, he was appointed a member of the body he now chairs and other public service awards have followed: an Australia Day medal in 1996 and a Centenary of Federation medal for service to the advancement of multiculturalism in 2001. Such has been his passion for his causes, he has also received honorary doctorates from two universities in recognition of his achievements. In 2007 he was appointed South Australia’s Lieutenant (Deputy) Governor, and in 2010 was appointed an Officer of the Order of Australia. Despite this he acknowledges the role others have played, for it is the advancement of others that is his passion. “Don’t ask me how or why this has happened because I don’t know,” he says. “All I know is that we come to this land, we try to educate ourselves, we take our opportunities, we work very hard... [but] more importantly my wife and I love people. We are interested in people, we love to be out there with people and we try to get to know the stories behind each person that we meet along the way.” In his role as Governor he will perform largely ceremonial duties, reside in South Australia’s Government House and continue to rub shoulders with those people he represents. This includes a Vietnamese community that he says is punching well above its weight in Australia. For that Le remains thankful. Thankful
Photo by Jon Aspin
“As a people we have proven time and time again that we are very determined, very focused and very resilient. We can endure hardship, adversity and keep working until we overcome it… For this I am very proud to have Vietnamese blood”
for the opportunities his adopted land has given him and for what he describes as the very Australian sense of the ‘fair go’ for all. “When you bask under the light of other cultures,” he says, “you always appreciate your own culture more, and the more I learn about other cultures, the more I appreciate having this Vietnamese origin of which I am proud.”
Fact File N AME : Hieu Van Le, Governor elect of
South Australia B ORN : Quang Tri Province, 1954 A RRIVED IN A USTRALIA : Nov. 21, 1977 E DUCATED : Dalat University, Adelaide University F AMILY & I NTERESTS : Married with two sons, Kim and Don — both named after former Australian cricket captains. Descendant of the Cham Kingdom, dating from the 7th century in Central and Southern Vietnam. Public servant. Foodie.
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The last call An architect and a consultant, through Green Consult Asia Melissa Merryweather is at the forefront of promoting sustainable architecture and urban planning in Vietnam. Photo by Kyle Phanroy
My love of architecture started... when I was just a bitty
thing and my dad took me with him on building sites (he is a developer). I thought building sites were the best fun ever. All that chaos.
My 15 years in London... were
magical. I landed there in 1983 — a mix of punk and New Romantics — with British creativity in art, music, fashion and architecture all at fever pitch. I was hooked.
I moved to Vietnam because... I
married the wrong guy. But I stayed.
Architecture in this country... is going through a period of transformation, where developers are starting to consider quality, longevity and design. Sadly, it is almost too late to save the unique historic buildings that if kept, would balance the I-could-be-anywhere glass towers, and provide identity and a sense of place. A distinctive ‘Vietnamese voice’ has yet to appear, but a few architects like Vo Trong Nghia are making a good stab at it.
Making space for new developments... is urgent. The
population is exploding. There are many under-utilised, low-quality urban areas ripe for redevelopment that are far preferable on one hand to sacrificing the tiny historic district or on the other, creating endless urban sprawl. We also need effective transport corridors linking priority development zones.
I set up Green Consult Asia... as an experiment. I thought of it as a laboratory, with a mix of educational and consulting outputs, up to 50 percent to be ‘donated’ to the Vietnam Green Building Council, universities, NGOs and so forth. It’s a company with a strong mission to drive and transform the ‘green’ construction market in Vietnam.
Convincing people to create sustainable buildings... is neces-
lived. I worked with a client, Suzanne Lecht, to transform two ugly pseudocolonial houses in Hanoi into a doublefronted, modern art gallery full of diffused light and ‘found’ details. The artists really liked it. The owner took it back rather than extending the lease.
sary. Like sustainable agriculture we have to learn to produce what we need within our means. This is not a purely idealistic goal, though. Sustainable buildings are economically more viable than their non-sustainable counterparts. They’re a better investment, and people who work and live in them are healthier and more satisfied with their built environment.
The most unusual project I’ve worked on here is... six
The problem with ‘green’ buildings is... that people think they are
My favourite project in Vietnam... was unfortunately short-
playgrounds in Lao Cai for Save The Children. Working with a traditional village social structure was eye-opening — especially the decision-making process. They got things done!
costly and impractical. I give lectures to debunk this myth. But it’s true that it’s a skill shift and the construction industry has to put in effort to make the transformation.
The change in this country’s urban landscapes... was inevi-
Getting buildings certified... is
table. Planning in Ho Chi Minh City is all about compromise and has never taken on bold strategies. So, no parks. Hanoi has decided, it seems, to ignore the cramped city centre entirely and has instead poured 100 percent of its energy into a surreal new urban centre to the southeast of the city. It’s kind of mind-boggling. I recommend a tour.
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Preserving old buildings... is hard but rewarding. I literally weep when I see the old gems of Ho Chi Minh City tumbling under the wrecker’s ball. People will regret it.
like a ‘how-to’ manual for sustainability. It helps the consultants and the owner understand what green building is and provides benchmarks they can agree on. It’s a good starting point.
If I could change one thing about my time in Vietnam... I’d
have started my own firm a lot sooner. Maybe I’d still be designing.