Vogue Spain X Nicolás Castaño Zúñiga

Page 1

Vogue 4,95 €

©

spain

nov 1966 4.

THE MINIMALS MAKE MAXIMUM FASHION decade special THE SIXTIES STYLE ICONS” FROM ARCHIVES




NEWS, PEOPLE AND NEWS

14, Letter from the director - 22, Object of desire 150, Partying - 152, The latest from Delfina Blaquier

IN VOGUE

20. Madrid, Spain, The artistic eye of Amanda Cassou -founder of Gallerist,

a Multi-brand e-commerce focused on showing the work of emerging Brazilian designers- takes us to explore and learn about the best of the artistic, cultural and gastronomic scene of the largest city in this South American country. 24. Renewing embrace, Latin American-inspired Piczas, new approaches to natural materials and the most effortless and chic accessories that will accompany you everywhere. These are the news of this station. 4


Vogue NOVEMBER

VOGUE STYLE

30, In the spotlight, Seventies figures, denim in all its expression

and skin, a lot of skin .. We embrace this change of season with the Trend Report 2020.

32, New skin, The trench coat is redefined as an infallible basic loaded of nuances and variable discourses. The best bet to coordinate any look of classic inspiration.

36,

The next move, The words diversity and inclusion are incorporated in the discourse of fashion. But, empathy is also raised as a significant part of fashion.

VOGUE JOURNAL

48, Missing Voices, Meet Lizzo, the singer who, in her attempt to discover herself, seems to spread a message of self-respect to an entire generation.

50, High work in the Netherlands, TEFAF Maastricht will take place from March 7 to 15. This fair becomes the scene of works worthy of a museum. Discover it!

BEAUTY

60, Overdose of exoticism, The new shades dress the complexion with subtle pigments and active principles capable of flirting with light, camouflaging and correcting ...

70, Breeze in St Barth, If you are looking for luxury, relaxation and a wonderful sea ​​view in St Barth ... this is what this spa offers you in the heart of the Christopher Hotel.

POINT OF VIEW

76, Our flourish, In the fertile ground of inclusion, we sow the

seeds that shed the trends of the season that is beginning, where botanical-inspired prints and silhouettes sprout.

90, To my sisters, Chilean Lacantante, Mon Laferte, collaborates and

writes for Vogue about her fight against gender violence, femicides and the generalized fear that Latin American women live with every day. 112,

VOGUE WORLD

148,

Guardians of flavor, Traditional cuisines are made of techniques that must be learned live, because their subtleties do not fit into a recipe.

ON THE COVER: Louis Vuitton outfit. Photographer, Anton Corbijn; styling, Michael Philouze. In this report: hairstyle, Anna Chapman | Julian Watson with Session Kit products; makeup, Kirstin PiggotilJulian Watson with M.A.C .; manicure, Nichole Williams wearing Chanel products; production, Margaux Huguet; photo assistant, Michael or Williams; production assistant, Justine Torres; fashion coordinator, Celine Sabbagh; fashion assistant, Gaultier Navarre; casting, David Chen; model, Cynthia Arrebola | Next Models.

5


Vogue spain

NICOLÁS CASTAÑO ZÚÑIGA EDITOR IN CHIEF

MODA Estilistas: VITO CASTELO, MARTA BAJO, ISABEL LLANZA Producción de Moda: ERIKA COUSO, BEATRIZ MALDONADO BELLEZA Directora: CARMEN LANCHARES. Asistente: CRISTINA DÍAZ REDACCIÓN Redactora Jefe: PALOMA ABAD. Redactora Jefe de Moda: SARA HERNANDO Redactor Jefe de Cultura y Estilo de Vida: MARIO XIMÉNEZ Redactores: ÁLVARO FERNÁNDEZ-ESPINA, NUALA PHILLIPS, SANDRA CAÑEDO Jefe de Edición y Cierre: PEDRO SÁNCHEZ DE COS Correctora: ESTHER GIMÉNEZ Administración: MARGARITA TOFIÑO Director de Arte ÓSCAR GERMADE ARTE Jefa de Maquetación: NOEMÍ GARCÍA. Jefa de Maquetación de Suplementos: LORETO DOMÍNGUEZ Maquetadores: ABRAHAM GARCÍA, ÁNGELA ALMEIDA EDICIÓN GRÁFICA Jefa de Edición Gráfica: ROSA VÁZQUEZ. Editora gráfica: MERCEDES MUÑOZ VOGUE.ES Directora Web: INÉS LORENZO. Redactora Jefe: CECILIA CASERO. Redacción: ANA MORALES, MARINA VALERA, SIRA LEBÓN, MARÍA JOSÉ PÉREZ MÉNDEZ, ALBA CORREA CREATIVE STUDIO Director: JORGE MADRID. Subdirectora: MARÍA JIMÉNEZ. Director Global de Diseño: JUAN MIGUEL LAPIDO. Coordinadora Editorial: CARMEN GARIJO. Director de Arte: XABIER MAULEÓN. Jefes de Maqueta: SARA POLO, JESÚS MOLINA, ISABEL ACERETE. Producción y Edición Gráfica: RUTH VARILLAS (Directora), CRISTINA SERRANO SYNDICATION & PHOTO REYES DOMÍNGUEZ (Directora). EVA VERGARACHEA, CRISTINA VERD, SANDRA FERNÁNDEZ COLABORADORES RAFA RODRÍGUEZ (Editor de Moda y Cultura), BEGOÑA GÓMEZ URZAIZ, MARÍA CONTRERAS, LUIS ARIEL GUTIÉRREZ, EMMA SUMMERTON, STAS KOMAROWSKI, ARTHUR ELGORT, TXEMA YESTE, FÉLIX VALIENTE, NICO BUSTOS, EDU GARCÍA, ARALE REARTES, PEPE LÓBEZ, SILVIA TORTAJADA, PATRICK MCKIE, VALENTINA COLLADO, OLIVIA FRØLICH, BERNAT BUSCATO, LAURA SUEIRO DEPARTAMENTO COMERCIAL Directora Comercial: ELENA FERRERAS Subdirectora Comercial: LAURA CAPO Jefas de Publicidad Madrid: DOLORES ZORRILLA, SUSANA HERNÁNDEZ, PATRICIA VEGA DE SEOANE. Jefa de Grupo Barcelona: JUDITH MASES Coordinación Madrid: FLOR BARBERO. Coordinación Barcelona: Ma CARMEN HERRERO Delegación Valencia: CELIA CERVERA. Delegación Zona Norte: ANA LÓPEZ CÁMARA Delegación Italia: ELENA MARSEGLIA. Delegación USA: ALESSANDRO CREMONA French Liaison Office Commercial Manager: ELENA MANSO RELACIONES PÚBLICAS BLANCA MARTÍNEZ DE IRUJO (Directora). VERENA BUSTILLO, MIGUEL IBÁN, MERCEDES ACEDO-RICO PRODUCCIÓN ENRIQUE GRAU, SILVIA PINO EDICIONES CONDÉ NAST S.A. (PUBLICIDAD Y REDACCIÓN) PASEO DE LA CASTELLANA, 9-11, 28046 MADRID. TEL. 917 004 170 - FAX: 913 199 325. PASEO DE GRACIA, 8-10, 3o1a, 08007 BARCELONA. TEL. 934 121 366 FAX: 934 126 698./ 3, AVENUE HOCHE. 75008 PARÍS. FRANCIA. +33 (0)1 53 43 69 51. PIAZZA CADORNA 5, 20121 MILÁN. TEL. +39 02 856 14217 FAX: +39 02 864 55026 / 1 WORLD TRADE CENTER NUEVA YORK, N.Y. 10007 TEL. +1 212 286 2860. DIRECTOR GENERAL DE FINANZAS Y OPERACIONES: JUAN MANUEL MARTÍN-MORENO DIRECTORA GENERAL DE MARKETING, PRODUCTO Y DATA: BEATRIZ SÁNCHEZ GUILLÉN DIRECTORA COMERCIAL: ELENA FERRERAS DIRECTORA CONDÉ NAST COLLEGE: ANA GARCÍA-SIÑERIZ CHIEF DIGITAL OFFICER: LINA CALZADO DIRECTORA ADJUNTA DE MARKETING Y DATA: SUSANA IBÁÑEZ DIRECTORA DE RECURSOS HUMANOS: ANA RUIZ DIRECTORA FINANCIERA: ELENA AEMMER DIRECTOR DE TECNOLOGÍA (CTO): RAFAEL MARTÍNEZ DIRECTOR DE COMUNICACIÓN: ALBERTO PEREIRA CONSEJERO: GIAMPAOLO GRANDI PRESIDENTA Y CEO NATALIA GAMERO DEL CASTILLO CHAIRMAN DE CONDÉ NAST ESPAÑA JAVIER PASCUAL DEL OLMO CHAIRMAN Y JEFE EJECUTIVO DE CONDÉ NAST INTERNACIONAL JONATHAN NEWHOUSE VOGUE ESPAÑA NO SE HACE NECESARIAMENTE RESPONSABLE DE LAS OPINIONES VERTIDAS POR LOS COLABORADORES EN SUS ARTÍCULOS. © EDICIONES CONDÉ NAST, S.A. RESERVADOS TODOS LOS DERECHOS. PROHIBIDA SU CITA, REPRODUCCIÓN, EDICIÓN O TRANSMISIÓN TOTAL O PARCIAL POR CUALQUIER MEDIO Y EN CUALQUIER SOPORTE SIN LA AUTORIZACIÓN ESCRITA DE EDICIONES CONDÉ NAST, S.A, AUN CITANDO LA PROCEDENCIA. DIRÍJASE A CEDRO SI NECESITA REPRODUCIR ALGÚN FRAGMENTO DE ESTA OBRA: WWW.CONLICENCIA.COM. DEPÓSITO LEGAL: M-25788-2012 / ISSN 0750-3849 EDICIONES CONDÉ NAST ES UNA EMPRESA SOSTENIBLE CERTIFICADA POR:

6


6 s

from the archives sixties style icons Meet the influencers behind the sixties’ fashion scene

7




“the sixties were a time when ordinary people could do extraordinary things...”.

D

ame Lesley Lawson DBE (née Hornby; born 19 September 1949) is an English model, actress, and singer, widely known by the nickname Twiggy. She was a British cultural icon and a prominent teenage model during the swinging sixties in London. Twiggy was initially known for her thin build (thus her nickname) and the androgynous appearance considered to result from her big eyes, long eyelashes, and short hair.She was named “The Face of 1966” by the Daily

Expressand voted British Woman of the Year.[4] By 1967, she had modelled in France, Japan, and the US, and had landed on the covers of Vogue and The Tatler. Her fame had spread worldwide. After modelling, Twiggy enjoyed a successful career as a screen, stage, and television actress. Her role in The Boy Friend (1971) brought her two Golden Globe Awards. In 1983 she made her Broadway debut in the musical My One and Only, for which she earned a Tony nomination for Best Actress in a Musical. She later hosted her own series, Twiggy’s People, in

which she interviewed celebrities; she also appeared as a judge on the reality show America’s Next Top Model. Her 1998 autobiography Twiggy in Black and White entered the best-seller lists. Since 2005, she has modelled for Marks and Spencer, most recently to promote their recent rebranding, appearing in television advertisements and print media, alongside Myleene Klass, Erin O’Connor, Lily Cole, and others. In 2012, she worked alongside Marks & Spencer’s designers to launch an exclusive clothing collection for the M&S Woman range.

twiggy dame lesley lawson

10


11




14


david

bowie “I´m not a prophet or a stone age man, just a mortal with thr potential of a superman. I´m living on”.

D

avid Robert Jones (8 January 1947 – 10 January 2016), known professionally as David Bowie, was an English singer-songwriter and actor. He was a leading figure in the music industry and is regarded as one of the most influential musicians of the 20th century. He was acclaimed by critics and musicians, particularly for his innovative work during the 1970s. His career was marked by reinvention and visual presentation, with his music and stagecraft having a significant impact on popular music. During his lifetime, his record sales, estimated at over 100 million records worldwide, made him one of the best-selling

Oddity”, released in 1969, was his first top-five entry on the UK Singles Chart. After a period of experimentation, he re-emerged in 1972 during the glam rock era with his flamboyant and androgynous alter ego Ziggy Stardust. The character was spearheaded by the success of Bowie’s single “Starman” and album The Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders from Mars, which won him widespread popularity. In 1975, Bowie’s style shifted towards a sound he characterised as “plastic Born in Brixton, South London, Bowie soul”, initially alienating many of developed an interest in music as a his UK fans but garnering him his child. He studied art, music and design first major US crossover success before embarking on a professional with the number-one single “Fame” career as a musician in 1963. “Space and the album Young Americans. music artists of all time. In the UK, he was awarded ten platinum album certifications, eleven gold and eight silver, and released eleven numberone albums. In the US, he received five platinum and nine gold certifications. He was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in 1996. Rolling Stone placed him among its list of the 100 Greatest Artists of All Time and named him the “Greatest Rock Star Ever” following his death in 2016.

15




“Elegance is the only beauty that never fades”.

audrey

hepburn A

udrey Hepburn (born Audrey Kathleen Ruston; 4 May 1929 – 20 January 1993) was a British actress and humanitarian. Recognised as a film and fashion icon, she was ranked by the American Film Institute as the third-greatest female screen legend in Golden Age Hollywood, and was inducted into the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame. Born in Ixelles, Brussels, Hepburn spent parts of her childhood in Belgium, England, and the Netherlands. She studied ballet with Sonia Gaskell in Amsterdam beginning in 1945 and with Marie Rambert in London starting in 1948. She began 18

performing as a chorus girl in West End musical theatre productions and then had minor appearances in several films. Hepburn starred in the 1951 Broadway play Gigi after being spotted by the French novelist Colette, on whose work the play was based. She rose to stardom in the romantic comedy Roman Holiday (1953), alongside Gregory Peck, for which she was the first actress to win an Oscar, a Golden Globe Award, and a BAFTA Award for a single performance. That same year Hepburn won a Tony Award for Best Lead Actress in a Play for her performance in Ondine. She went on to star in a number of successful films, such as: Sabrina (1954), in

which Humphrey Bogart and William Holden compete for her affection; Funny Face (1957) a musical in which she sang her own song parts; the drama The Nun’s Story (1959); the romantic comedy Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961); the thriller-romance Charade (1963), opposite Cary Grant; and the musical My Fair Lady (1964). In 1967 she starred in the thriller Wait Until Dark receiving Academy Award, Golden Globe and BAFTA nominations. After that she only occasionally appeared in films, one being Robin and Marian (1976) with Sean Connery. Her last recorded performances were in the 1990 documentary television series Gardens of the World with Audrey Hepburn.


19




22


Y

ves Henri Donat MthieuSaint-Laurent, 1 August 1936 – 1 June 2008), professionally known as Yves Saint-Laurent, was a French fashion designer who, in 1961, founded his eponymous fashion label. He is regarded as being among the foremost fashion designers in the twentieth century. In 1985, Caroline Rennolds Milbank wrote, “The most consistently celebrated and influential designer of the past twenty-five years, Yves Saint Laurent can be credited with both spurring the couture’s rise from its 1960s ashes and with finally rendering ready-to-wear reputable.”He was able to adapt his style to accommodate the changes in fashion during that period. He approached fashion in a different perspective by wanting

women to look comfortable yet elegant at the same time. He is also credited with having introduced the tuxedo suit for women and was known for his use of non-European cultural references, and non-white models. In 1953, Saint Laurent submitted three sketches to a contest for young fashion designers organized by the International Wool Secretariat. Saint Laurent won first place. Subsequently, he was invited to attend the awards ceremony held in Paris in December of that same year. During his stay in Paris, Saint Laurent met Michel de Brunhoff (who was then editor-in-chief of the French edition of Vogue magazine and a connection to his father). De Brunhoff, known by some as a considerate person who encouraged new talent, was impressed by the sketches that

Saint Laurent brought with him and suggested he should intend to become a fashion designer. Saint Laurent would eventually consider a course of study at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the council which regulates the haute couture industry and provides training to its employees. Saint Laurent followed his advice and, leaving Oran for Paris after graduation, began his studies there and eventually graduated as a star pupil. Later, that same year, he entered the International Wool Secretariat competition again and won, beating out his friend Fernando Sánchez and young German student Karl Lagerfeld.Shortly after his win, he brought a number of sketches to de Brunhoff who recognised close similarities to sketches he had been shown that morning by Christian Dior.

“I love black because it affirms, designs and styles. A woman in a black dress is a pencil stroke”.

YVES SAINT

laurent 23




“Fashion may not be a weapon of the woman but at least it gives her the ammunition”.

Brigitte

BARDOT B rigitte Anne-Marie Bardot; born 28 September 1934), often referred to by her initials B.B. is a French former actress and singer, and animal rights activist. Famous for portraying sexually emancipated personae with hedonistic lifestyles, she was one of the best known sex symbols of the 1950s and 1960s. Although she withdrew from the entertainment industry in 1973, she remains a major popular culture icon.

She started her acting career in 1952. She achieved international recognition in 1957 for her role in the controversial And God Created Woman, and also caught the attention of French intellectuals. She was the subject of Simone de Beauvoir’s 1959 essay The Lolita Syndrome, which described her as a “locomotive of women’s history” and built upon existentialist themes to declare her the first and most liberated woman of post-war France. Bardot later starred in Jean-Luc GoBorn and raised in Paris, Bardot was dard’s 1963 film Le Mépris. For her an aspiring ballerina in her early life. role in Louis Malle’s 1965 film Viva

26

Maria! she was nominated for a BAFTA Award for Best Foreign Actress. Bardot retired from the entertainment industry in 1973. She had acted in 47 films, performed in several musicals and recorded more than 60 songs. She was awarded the Legion of Honour in 1985 but refused to accept it. After retiring, she became an animal rights activist. During the 2000s, she generated controversy by criticizing immigration and Islam in France, and she has been fined five times for inciting racial hatred.Bardot is married to Bernard d’Ormale, a former adviser of the National Rally,


27


HOTEL RITZ, MADRID, JUNE 1963

LOEWE MADRID

1846

WWW.LOEWE.COM


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.